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BraveUlysses posted:I recommend using a Park Tool Head Wrench 32mm. Put it on the reverse-threaded nut and hit it with a hammer. Ha -- this is what I used too. I'm a bike mechanic, and when I measured w/ a caliper, a little light went on in my head and said "32mm! Skinny! I have that wrench!" I didn't use a hammer though... Jonontherun posted:I've used http://www.autohausaz.com/ before and they ship to Canada. I'm not sure if they have the parts you need but they had almost everything for my e30. I LOVE these guys; cheapest prices I've found anywhere, and as a bonus, I can toss in crap for my Honda, my mom's Camry, my roomate's lovely Isuzu, etc, on the same shipment (clutch kit for my Accord on the site is --get this-- $58). miklm posted:I don't get close to that in my 328is. I averaged 24.5mpg on my last trip up to TN, but I spend a lot more time at 85 than 75. I also need new O2 sensors. Oh, but my trip computer thingy there says I'm doing 27+, so you might want to double check that using the old fashioned manual way and see what your real fuel economy is. I get 32-33mpg consistently in my Ti, but that's with a rather heavy foot whilst passing, 75mph average speed, 3.25 gears and a car that weighs 2780 with a full tank. Sooo... yeah. snugglz fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Apr 12, 2008 |
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Apr 12, 2008 19:04
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In my '92 325i I'm lucky to break 20 on a tank with half highway and half city, but I drive like an rear end in a top hat. I just replaced the 02 sensor and keep my tire pressure good.
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Apr 12, 2008 20:54
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chem42 posted:In my '92 325i I'm lucky to break 20 on a tank with half highway and half city, but I drive like an rear end in a top hat. I just replaced the 02 sensor and keep my tire pressure good. Well, at least I know I'm not alone on this. I can eek out 21mpg if I drive somewhat sane, but it's usually 19-20.5.
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Apr 12, 2008 21:09
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My '97- Eibach springs, Koni SA externally adjustable shocks, RAID wheel, Rogue shifter, Conforti software, 91K miles... 
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Apr 13, 2008 03:44
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I've got a 94 325i that while I love it, like all E36's is a never ending cycle of fun and expensive little fixes. Last weekend I pulled the drivers seat out to replace a plastic gear ($40) so my power seats functioned again. On the current to do list: 1. Pull the instrument cluster. I need to replace a turn signal indicator, and figure out why all of the gauges occasionally die as I'm driving along. My theory is that the insulation has rubbed off a few wires and it's shorting out. 2. Figure out why the driver side door doesn't unlock. The key turns, and if I unlock the car from the passenger side, the central locking unlocks all the doors. 3. Figure out what's up with the drivers side door seal. The dome light comes on, and the car acts as if the drivers side door isn't shut all the way. Pushing on the top of the drivers side door from the outside corrects the problem. Anyone have any experience or suggestions for any of these?
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Apr 13, 2008 08:39
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swampnutz posted:My '97- Eibach springs, Koni SA externally adjustable shocks, RAID wheel, Rogue shifter, Conforti software, 91K miles... Oh God I love your LTW wheels. Sharp lookin car. In other news, my driving school at Pacific Raceways on Friday was nothing short of loving awesome. Weather was great, nobody went offcourse, minimal mechanical failures and I learned so much. Sunburns in April in Seattle are rare and to be cherished.
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Apr 13, 2008 16:43
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I've got a '92 325i, which is an utterly fantastic car for having 200,000 on it. Unfortunately she's in need of some maintenance now. I need new shocks and wheels, and the engine needs a tune-up (gas mileage is going to poo poo now, averaging 25 now on highway and I used to get up at 29/30). First off, wheels. The wheels on it now are out of round, so they have to go. The ones I currently have are 7J 15" wheels. This is the current wheel style on the car:  I like the look of the current style, but I'm not attached to it. I'd like to keep it OEM if possible. I'm having trouble finding a cheap source for the wheels though. Ebay has a few for $100 a wheel or so, but they look like they are rebuilt wheels. I'm going to assume no, but are those trustworthy at all? If not, where can I find new wheels for decently cheap? 4 wheels for $600 is what I'm seeing for now, I'd love you if you can find something for $500 or less if that's even possible. Also, the previous owner seemed like he took at least decent care of the car, but he got the car off eBay. So, incomplete history. The car just turned 200,000. So far I've replaced the ball joints, alternator, belts, brakes (new calipers, pads), tires, and had the interior rebuilt. I'm going to try and get the engine tuned up when I get the wheels and shocks replaced, but I need to know if there's anything else I should be looking at doing. I've heard timing belts and radiators are things to watch, should I ask them to check both while that's all getting done? This will all be done by mechanics. I've got some basic tools and I'd love to learn, but also I'm at an apartment, have no jacks/stands, and have no mechanically-inclined friends within an hours drive. Oh well, better prepare to have my wallet raped again...
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Apr 13, 2008 17:15
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clredwolf posted:4 wheels for $600 is what I'm seeing for now, I'd love you if you can find something for $500 or less if that's even possible. Check Craigslist in your area. People are always selling cheap OEM BMW wheels. I usually see E36 wheels for ~300-400 for a set. quote:Also, the previous owner seemed like he took at least decent care of the car, but he got the car off eBay. So, incomplete history. The car just turned 200,000. So far I've replaced the ball joints, alternator, belts, brakes (new calipers, pads), tires, and had the interior rebuilt. I'm going to try and get the engine tuned up when I get the wheels and shocks replaced, but I need to know if there's anything else I should be looking at doing. I've heard timing belts and radiators are things to watch, should I ask them to check both while that's all getting done? Cooling system. If you don't have the records just replace it all: radiator, expansion tank, hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing and waterpump. Gas mileage usually drops when your oxygen sensor is starting to fail, so replace that, there's only one and it's <$100 if you look around online. Other than that, check the plugs and see what shape they're in. It could also be possible at that mileage that the ignition coils and boots are going bad. Are you having any drivability problems? Sluggish down lown, bogging under power down low, etc. [/quote]
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Apr 13, 2008 18:09
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clredwolf posted:Wheels I'm not sure what model wheels they are, but I reckon they look pretty good on E36's and are cheap and pleniful (at least in the UK) 
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Apr 13, 2008 18:28
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Cooling system. If you don't have the records just replace it all: radiator, expansion tank, hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing and waterpump. Gas mileage usually drops when your oxygen sensor is starting to fail, so replace that, there's only one and it's <$100 if you look around online. Other than that, check the plugs and see what shape they're in. It could also be possible at that mileage that the ignition coils and boots are going bad. Are you having any drivability problems? Sluggish down lown, bogging under power down low, etc. One problem I have been having: This being a slushbox (ewww), when I put the car in drive it really lacks torque. It seems that the computer is defaulting to manual drive instead of auto for some weird reason. If I press and hold 'A' on the manual/auto switch for a while it'll figure it out and the car downshifts. I think that's what I get for buying a BMW with a slushbox though (at least it was cheap...). For general driving, the car is a tad sluggish up mountains and hills, until it hits the 3000-4000 rpm range and takes off. Otherwise on flatland it still has alot of power. Only time I've ever seen the car really bog is when I loaded it down coming home from college (which will not happen anymore).
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Apr 13, 2008 18:40
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Even though the 6-series was left out of the original post, I'm going to post some pics of my current BMW because this is the BMW thread, and I happen to like my E24 rainy-day mobile.    The odometer reading is off, as it started working again when I replaced the instrument panel circuit board. How involved is replacing the oxygen sensor in this car? I've got a new one kicking around and have been struck by the urge to burn less gasoline (currently averaging about 24.7 mpg in highway travel).
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Apr 13, 2008 21:29
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I bought my 94' 325i with 90k miles a three years ago. What is the typical mileage at which the O2 sensors would be replaced? ~100k ish? I have no clue if the previous owner replaced the O2 sensors at anytime, and my average MPG seems to have fallen about 2MPG on the highway, and 1MPG in the city at 110K miles. I'm trying to make sense of it.
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Apr 13, 2008 22:15
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ynotony posted:I bought my 94' 325i with 90k miles a three years ago. What is the typical mileage at which the O2 sensors would be replaced? ~100k ish? I have no clue if the previous owner replaced the O2 sensors at anytime, and my average MPG seems to have fallen about 2MPG on the highway, and 1MPG in the city at 110K miles. I'm trying to make sense of it. BMW says every 40-50k miles  In actuality, probably much longer, but at 110k it's probably time to replace it. There is a good cheap DIY on using a Ford Econoline van O2 sensor and soldering it to your old connector to save some money. I did it, and it worked just fine.
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Apr 13, 2008 22:28
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ynotony posted:I bought my 94' 325i with 90k miles a three years ago. What is the typical mileage at which the O2 sensors would be replaced? ~100k ish? I have no clue if the previous owner replaced the O2 sensors at anytime, and my average MPG seems to have fallen about 2MPG on the highway, and 1MPG in the city at 110K miles. I'm trying to make sense of it. Doctor Grape Ape posted:BMW says every 40-50k miles http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=589134&highlight=econoline It should be noted however, that this only works on 92-95 E36's. It does not work for OBDII vehicles.
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Apr 13, 2008 22:41
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I just spent ~$450 on my '92 325iS. -New tierods, boots, and crush washers. -Diff output seals. -BimmerWorld Steel Adjustable Lower Control Arms -M3 rear lower ball joints -M3 RTAB -Rogue RTAB Shims After all that I can finally get an alignment and get some new tires. and just 30 minutes ago I scored a stock M3 shifter for $1.04+12.something shipping, and new decals for my wheels for $13 shipped from Thailand. It's getting there, slowly. The only big items I have left are the brakes, subframe reinforcements, subframe bushings, motor mounts, tranny mounts and rebuild the shifter. So 2-3 big purchases left. And then, around Christmas time, Schrick hot cam and tune 
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Apr 14, 2008 04:30
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stump posted:I got a set of E46 16" wheels for £200 delivered from eBay, with decent quality tires, 2 almost new and 2 legal. But this was in the UK so your mileage may vary. Those look like the stock wheels on my e46 (EDIT: Durr, I see now that you already said they were e46 wheels). They are pretty sharp, but the best part about them is that they're ridiculously easy to clean. It's great. milieu fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Apr 14, 2008 |
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Apr 14, 2008 13:41
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I think I've decided I'm going to get an early to mid 90's BMW as a daily driver since they seem to have a ridiculously long lifespan. Do the guys in this thread find these older models in great shape or did you have to put a lot of work into beat up ones? I'm looking at stuff for under 5k.
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Apr 16, 2008 00:06
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:I think I've decided I'm going to get an early to mid 90's BMW as a daily driver since they seem to have a ridiculously long lifespan. Do the guys in this thread find these older models in great shape or did you have to put a lot of work into beat up ones? I'm looking at stuff for under 5k. For under 5k you could get a running E34 or E36 in decent to good shape. It likely will not be "perfect", but 5k should get you a pretty all-around solid car. The E34 in particular is one of BMW's most well built cars ever, and is dead reliable with a straight six. The V8 models (530i and 540i) are more finicky and maintenance intensive. I had a 535i 5-speed and it was a great car. For a daily driver though I'd recommend a 92+ 525i because the updated M50 2.5L has power approaching that of the M30 3.5L, but with better fuel economy. The M20 (89-92 525s) is a dog of an engine in the 3400 pound E34. If you can sacrifice a couple mpg and slightly lesser handling, the E34 is a supremely comfortable car. It handles amazingly well, especially considering its size. The E36 is an all around decent car, and will handle a bit better than an E34, but you will immediately notice a large gap in general build quality. E36s are pretty cheap feeling in my opinion, which may or may not matter to you. A 325i or 328i would make a pretty quick daily driver that is okay on gas. Avoid the 318i though, it's slow as balls. Guinness fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Apr 16, 2008 |
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Apr 16, 2008 03:18
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Guinness posted:The E36 is an all around decent car, and will handle a bit better than an E34, but you will immediately notice a large gap in general build quality. E36s are pretty cheap feeling in my opinion, which may or may not matter to you. Just to offer another opinion, an E34 interior was born in 1987, and the E36 interior was born in 1992. I drive an '94 E36 and the inside is much more modern feeling than my friend's '95 E34 and I like it better. The E36 also stopped production in 1999 so it looks newer on the outside as well. As for build quality I haven't noticed a difference between the two.
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Apr 16, 2008 03:42
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ynotony posted:Just to offer another opinion, an E34 interior was born in 1987, and the E36 interior was born in 1992. I drive an '94 E36 and the inside is much more modern feeling than my friend's '95 E34 and I like it better. The E36 also stopped production in 1999 so it looks newer on the outside as well. Really? I think that the E34 interior feels more modern and sophisticated. Difference of opinion, I guess! But both certainly feel years ahead of their domestic and Japanese contemporaries. Guinness fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Apr 16, 2008 |
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Apr 16, 2008 04:57
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Latest spy shots of the 3 series update:      I absolutely LOVE the way that the e90 drives, but always felt like the styling was a bit off. The facelift seems to fix most of my complaints, and has me wondering if I can somehow scrounge up $50k in the next 3 years.
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Apr 16, 2008 05:46
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I'm so loving happy they got rid of the downright hideous chrome bit on top of the kidneys on the E90 sedans that is not even on the grille, but a separate piece on the hood. The coupe-style kidneys are a thousand times better. It pains me to see so many E90s with their front-end aesthetics completely ruined by that stupid trim. ^^ Bad. What on earth were they thinking. Also, I'm really digging the embossed "stripe" down the hood. Reminds me of older style BMWs that had similar styling cues.
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Apr 16, 2008 06:09
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I bought this little baby for $800, put about $200 into it to make it run then had to sell it a year later when the cops threatened to take it away because I couldn't get it smogged. Major bummer. I miss you  And right now I'm looking to buy an E30 or E36, but I don't know how reliable E30's are. Anyone?
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Apr 16, 2008 06:26
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OMG Spor posted:And right now I'm looking to buy an E30 or E36, but I don't know how reliable E30's are. Anyone? No less reliable than most any other 20+ year old car out there. If you aren't a DIY mechanic I would stay pretty far away from one, though, or any 20+ year old car for that matter. But if you are a DIYer, an E30, or any oldish BMW, can be an extremely rewarding car. Repairs are generally pretty straightforward, parts are still easy to come by and are pretty affordable online, and there's a huge enthusiast following with tons of info, documentation, and part swapping. It might be marginally more expensive than owning a 1988 Honda Accord, but it will be so, so, so much more fun. The straight six motors and manual transmissions and associated drivetrain components (by far the most expensive bits on the car) are pretty drat resilient, but they do require sticking to the maintenance schedule, and other little minor things in the car will likely need to be addressed like electric poo poo from time to time (or the infamous E36 cooling system). They aren't unreliable by any means, but don't expect it to never break or to never have weird little issues. Most of the time whatever breaks won't strand you, so you can almost always drive it home to the comfort of your own driveway to work on it. And one thing in particular about BMWs is that when they break they usually break in very predictable ways, so 95% of problems you might have on your car have been had by tons of other people who have talked about it and documented it online. This is a godsend compared to something like a Mk.IV Volkswagen loaded with shoddy electrics with tons of unpredictable and hard to reproduce failures. Guinness fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Apr 16, 2008 |
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Apr 16, 2008 07:36
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Guinness posted:For under 5k you could get a running E34 or E36 in decent to good shape. It likely will not be "perfect", but 5k should get you a pretty all-around solid car. Thanks for this post, it was very useful. I looked up the numbering system and it all makes a lot more sense now. I think I'm going to try to find a two door version - I'm only seeing E36 coupes, though. Was there an E34 coupe, too? Any other advice or tips on finding a good car is welcome. I think I'm probably going to stick with the E36 - I like the looks better. Finally, what's with all the leather seats? Was there no cloth option? How hard is it to find some seats from other cars (BMW or not) and transplant them in?
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Apr 16, 2008 08:00
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:Thanks for this post, it was very useful. I looked up the numbering system and it all makes a lot more sense now. Yeah, once you get used to it it's a much better method to refer to the specific chassis than saying "My 3rd generation 5-series with the 2.5L motor" or similar. Anyone who's into BMWs will know exactly what you're referring to right away. I don't know all the beginning and end years of all the generations, but when someone says E28 or E46 I know exactly what chassis they're referring to. I don't keep up on all of the chassis codes, just the common ones (3, 5, and 7 series). There's only a handful to remember that way. Who gives a poo poo about the X3 or X5. quote:I think I'm going to try to find a two door version - I'm only seeing E36 coupes, though. Yeah, the E30 and E36 coupes are designated as "is" models (e.g. 328is). Not all ads will necessarily make the distinction, though, so it's good to just search for 325, or 3-series, for example. quote:Was there an E34 coupe, too? No, the E34, and all 5-series cars, only came in sedan and wagon forms. As a sidenote, however, the 6-series has been largely/entirely based off its contemporary 5-series counterpart, making it essentially a 5-series coupe. However, there was no 6-series in the E34 or E39 eras. quote:I think I'm probably going to stick with the E36 - I like the looks better. Can't fault you for that. The 3-series is sportier than the 5-series, and if you're looking for a coupe then it's a no-brainer. Personally I prefer the appearance of the E34 to the E36, but opinions are like assholes.  quote:Finally, what's with all the leather seats? Was there no cloth option? How hard is it to find some seats from other cars (BMW or not) and transplant them in? In the USA, BMW is marketed as an exclusively premium brand. Premium brand = leather interiors. Again, I suppose it's personal preference, but leather seats are SO much nicer than cloth seats, and hold up so much nicer if taken care of. The leather seats in my 1990 535i were nearly pristine. Guinness fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Apr 16, 2008 |
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Apr 16, 2008 08:57
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Guinness posted:In the USA, BMW is marketed as an exclusively premium brand. Premium brand = leather interiors. Again, I suppose it's personal preference, but leather seats are SO much nicer than cloth seats, and hold up so much nicer if taken care of. The leather seats in my 1990 535i were nearly pristine. The front leather seats in my 1992 325is are pristine. They've had the $400 a pop BMW Sheepskin covers on them since new God I love those sheepskin covers, the seat is never too hot or too cold or uncomfortable.
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Apr 16, 2008 15:54
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Guinness posted:
No theyre not. The S in the IS means its the "sports" model which generally meant different gearing and suspension stuff. Youre thinking of CI which appeared on the e46 coupes. The e30 and e36 coupes were just I unless they were the sports model.
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Apr 16, 2008 19:04
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Nutsngum posted:No theyre not. The S in the IS means its the "sports" model which generally meant different gearing and suspension stuff. Youre thinking of CI which appeared on the e46 coupes. The e30 and e36 coupes were just I unless they were the sports model. No, at least for the E30 and E36, the 's' denoted coupe, at least here in the states. I think the coupe also came with fancy pants suspension upgrades, and different wheels and stuff. I searched for a coupe for months before giving up and settling on a four-door, and believe me, I looked at a LOT. I came to learn very quickly the differences. Also, I found out that the coupe and sedan of the E36 share almost no sheetmetal. There's about 1.5" more between the front door and the front wheels, and the roofline/trunkline is different. The more you know...
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Apr 16, 2008 19:07
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CornHolio posted:No, at least for the E30 and E36, the 's' denoted coupe, at least here in the states. I think the coupe also came with fancy pants suspension upgrades, and different wheels and stuff. Usually it designated the sport model, however not all sport models came with the S designation. 1991 E30s could be fitted with all the sport model upgrades, however, none of them were "S"s as far as I am aware. All sport models(iS) were coupes as far as I know as well. Lightbulb Out fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Apr 16, 2008 |
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Apr 16, 2008 19:12
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Any recommendations on how to find a reliable place for tint? I didn't realize just how much I would miss having tint around the rear (my X5 had it stock) until it hit 100 over the weekend. I also have no idea how much to expect to pay, other than the Al & Eds down the street advertising $99 for 3 windows (I have a wagon, and I wouldn't expect a $99 job to be good anyways). Really, I just want a good, quality job done that won't bubble or look like poo poo, and I figured it didn't need a separate thread for recommendations. Fake Edit: I'm in Los Angeles (SFV area) if anyone know of or works at a place...
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Apr 16, 2008 19:30
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TractionControl posted:Usually it designated the sport model, however not all sport models came with the S designation. at least for E30s, I've seen 325e and 325i coupes. the sports were separate but yeah, there was no sport sedan. the iS had the diff, the sport seats, the sports suspension (yellow bilsteins!) and wheels, etc. Not 100% sure about the E36s. [fake edit] don't forget about the two-year 318iS coupe, either. They only made those in 90-91 IIRC and I'm pretty sure there was a 318i coupe beforehand 
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Apr 16, 2008 20:05
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harperdc posted:at least for E30s, I've seen 325e and 325i coupes. the sports were separate but yeah, there was no sport sedan. the iS had the diff, the sport seats, the sports suspension (yellow bilsteins!) and wheels, etc. Not 100% sure about the E36s. [fake edit] don't forget about the two-year 318iS coupe, either. They only made those in 90-91 IIRC and I'm pretty sure there was a 318i coupe beforehand Right, there are E30 coupes that aren't "S"s, but all "S" were coupes.
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Apr 16, 2008 20:43
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Is the 318i really unbearably slow? There are some good deals out there on a few and I don't really need a speed machine since I have a sport bike for that.
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Apr 16, 2008 20:44
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Guinness posted:For under 5k you could get a running E34 or E36 in decent to good shape. It likely will not be "perfect", but 5k should get you a pretty all-around solid car. Man, maybe it's because I'm in CA or something (which you'd think would make it EASIER, not HARDER) but I've very rarely spotted an E36 under 150k miles for anywhere near 5k. Every time I look up Autotrader or craigslist, I see them closer to 8k than 5k. I'm actually really miffed because I saw a green 1990 E30 in GORGEOUS (at least outside) condition, and I remembered someone in AI once saying that you can tell a lot about the condition of the car based on how the owner treats their seats, and these were in great, if not perfect, condition. The kicker: it was $2200, and I couldn't see the odometer from the window since it was really bright out but I think it was around 150k. I was out jogging, so I start sprinting to the nearest store to get a piece of paper and pen to write down the phone number in the window, but by the time I came back it was gone. Also, regarding the DIY crowd, how "friendly" are the E30s/E34/E36s to someone who is still learning, as far as car mechanics go, and what's a recommended toolset for someone who would get one?
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Apr 16, 2008 21:20
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:Is the 318i really unbearably slow? There are some good deals out there on a few and I don't really need a speed machine since I have a sport bike for that. The e30 318is is a lot of fun despite being down on power. The e36 318is is a loving dog and doesn't make up for power by being super light and nimble like the e30. Honestly just test drive and see what you like.
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Apr 16, 2008 22:16
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OxMan posted:Man, maybe it's because I'm in CA or something (which you'd think would make it EASIER, not HARDER) but I've very rarely spotted an E36 under 150k miles for anywhere near 5k. This is bad news for me as I'm shopping for an E36. I want a coupe with around 100k miles. My budget is 5k give or take, although I could come up with a little more in a couple months. I think it's either going to be this or a Miata. Hopefully my area will be cheaper than CA, I live in Philly.
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Apr 16, 2008 22:33
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Guinness posted:Thanks a lot. I used to tool around on the 2002 I posted and my dad and I mess around on his Mustang every weekend, so I'll probably look closer at a ~1990 325is. As long as I'm not an idiot I think I can keep it running. Hopefully this thread'll see a new (used) BMW posted by me in the next month.
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Apr 16, 2008 23:04
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May as well ask here too... I'm looking for a steering rack for an E30 (particularly my '85 325e) in or near Minneapolis. I'm tired of my rack leaking all over the place and I can't afford to have my car out of service for the time it would take to pull the rack, rebuild it, then reinstall. I need a rack that either is in good shape or can be rebuild with a set of new seals. I can't afford to spend much right now, I'm looking at spending ~$50 or so, if that's possible.
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Apr 17, 2008 01:08
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two_beer_bishes posted:May as well ask here too... Your best bet is to find a junkyard one. I know used ones are absurdly expensive. MY MECHANIC happened to have 2 E30 parts cars and that's whee I got my nearly new rack from. Good luck, I know how much a bitch it is to have it spewing everywhere. I had to refill my PS fluid every day it was getting so bad.
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Apr 17, 2008 02:12
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