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TractionControl posted:Your best bet is to find a junkyard one. I know used ones are absurdly expensive. MY MECHANIC happened to have 2 E30 parts cars and that's whee I got my nearly new rack from. I figured it would come down to this  Yeah, I have to refill my PS fluid every morning and my supply is almost out...
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Apr 17, 2008 02:16
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I know there's another rack (or two) from later models that fit on the E30...because they're suggested for performance reasons to reduce the rather stupid 4 turns lock-to-lock to something more bearable for autocross or track use. I think it's the Z3 and maybe the E36, but I can't remember for certain. I'm considering it eventually, and I bring it up only as an option, really.
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Apr 17, 2008 08:32
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harperdc posted:I know there's another rack (or two) from later models that fit on the E30...because they're suggested for performance reasons to reduce the rather stupid 4 turns lock-to-lock to something more bearable for autocross or track use. I think it's the Z3 and maybe the E36, but I can't remember for certain. I'm considering it eventually, and I bring it up only as an option, really. I'll look into that, thanks for the suggestion! I like having more options 
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Apr 17, 2008 11:59
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'll look into that, thanks for the suggestion! I like having more options When the rack seals died on my 325is I just cut the belt to the pump and drove it without power steering. I don't think that belt drives anything else (or didn't on my '87 that I remember). Drove it for 25k miles with zero problems.
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Apr 17, 2008 14:28
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I saw a 135i for the first time yesterday. Chicagoland area but it had out of state plates (East Coast?)... Pretty sharp looking car. I don't know if I could justify spending all that on a car when a 3-series is such a close competitor.
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Apr 17, 2008 14:34
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BabyJesus posted:I saw a 135i for the first time yesterday. Chicagoland area but it had out of state plates (East Coast?)... Pretty sharp looking car. I don't know if I could justify spending all that on a car when a 3-series is such a close competitor. I think the thing is, a BASE 3-series is close. What's the base these days, a 328i? What's the difference in cost between a 135i and a 335i? I know personally I'd rather have the 300HP twin turbo six than the 240HP N/A six, especially if its cheaper.
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Apr 17, 2008 15:24
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'll look into that, thanks for the suggestion! I like having more options here's what I was thinking about - an E36 rack and everything for ~$600. But it takes the E30 from 4.0 to 2.7 turns lock-to-lock 
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Apr 17, 2008 23:43
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harperdc posted:here's what I was thinking about - an E36 rack and everything for ~$600. But it takes the E30 from 4.0 to 2.7 turns lock-to-lock Way too expensive for me right now mungtor posted:When the rack seals died on my 325is I just cut the belt to the pump and drove it without power steering. I don't think that belt drives anything else (or didn't on my '87 that I remember). Drove it for 25k miles with zero problems. That's exactly what I did this past weekend but with the driving that I do, I really need power steering (lots of parking ramps with really tight turns...)
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Apr 18, 2008 00:42
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two_beer_bishes posted:That's exactly what I did this past weekend but with the driving that I do, I really need power steering (lots of parking ramps with really tight turns...) Oh come on, man the hell up. (Have you tried contacting Vines or looking on eBay for a used rack?)
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Apr 18, 2008 01:07
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Oh come on, man the hell up. (Have you tried contacting Vines or looking on eBay for a used rack?) Yeah, but I was hoping I could find one locally. I'm going to a junkyard on Monday to pull one from a 318i.
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Apr 18, 2008 01:28
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TractionControl posted:My brother lives in California, I live in Iowa. His girlfriend reads this forum(APPARENTLY) and showed him that picture jokingly saying "So is this your family?" after him telling her about his families obsession with the roundel. He responded "Yes, I shot that picture". We were all shocked. How loving weird is that? Ben's girlfriend, stop stalking me!
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Apr 18, 2008 02:30
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OxMan posted:Also, regarding the DIY crowd, how "friendly" are the E30s/E34/E36s to someone who is still learning, as far as car mechanics go, and what's a recommended toolset for someone who would get one? My 318ti (E36) has been a pretty good car for me to get started on. There's a pretty good BMW internet community so you can find decent documentation for a lot of things online. Bentley makes a good manual, for E36s at least. The biggest help I've had is my local BMW CCA chapter. The most active members don't drive brand new cars for the most part and those guys have taught me a lot and helped me out a ton when I've needed. My chapter even has a bunch of money invested in special BMW tools that are loaned out to members at no cost. As for a toolset, I picked up a Craftsman "mechanics toolset" when I bought my car and it has been okay. I haven't used half of the stuff though since it is SAE. I think you might be better off buying your own ratchet, metric socket set and wrenches as well as a decent set of screwdrivers. Go name brand on these items as you'll use them the most. Find your local Harbor Freight for jackstands and a floor jack, as well as any odd tools you don't feel like paying top dollar for.
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Apr 18, 2008 03:21
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Spor posted:Hopefully this thread'll see a new (used) BMW posted by me in the next month. Make that less than a week. Picked this up today. Bright loving red 1994 325i with new wheels, tires, brakes and rotors, for $3400.  Only problem is that my license is suspended until May 25th. So I'll just have to drool over it and make it look pretty until then.
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Apr 18, 2008 04:49
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harperdc posted:here's what I was thinking about - an E36 rack and everything for ~$600. But it takes the E30 from 4.0 to 2.7 turns lock-to-lock Here's that rack for $286 (with a $175 core charge). Probably another $100 or so for fresh hoses and crush washers and whatnot... I've driven multiple E36's with this mod -- non-M E36s are 3.5 turns LTL (linear) and M3s are 3.0 to 3.25 (progressive) depending on year -- and it is awesome. Makes the really slow driving (like parking lots and such) noticeably heavier in the wheel, but the tighter ratio is loving fantastic and really makes the car feel a bit... tighter. I loved it, and it's defiantly on the list, which will probably be soon since my rack seals are starting to seep (after 10 years and 151k) Also, IIRC, the Z3 rack is technically 2.8 turns LTL. There are alot of threads about it on bimmerforums. Math was involved. Spor posted:Bright loving red you need some of this for your skirts and trim. It works really well. Also, I dig the E46 325 wheels on that car... looks really clean. snugglz fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Apr 18, 2008 |
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Apr 18, 2008 08:05
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A question for all you E36 M guys: What kind of life do you typically see for brake pads on stock rotors? How long did your stock rotors last? Any recommendations for new pads? I'm looking for less dust and noise, since this is my DD. If I go to the track, I'll use dedicated track pads. Thoughts on Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads for street use? Bimmerforums seems to love 'em (but they're all braindead).
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Apr 18, 2008 08:22
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Can anyone elighten me on the E46 clutch? I have a 2003 330i with 56,000 miles that I bought CPO off-lease at 49,000 miles - no sport package, so I have the 5-speed manual. I'm starting to notice what I assume is a sign of the clutch giving out - during hard launch, I can't get the clutch to catch. I removed the CDV at 54,000 miles, for what it's worth. Basically, I'm wondering what the chances are that the clutch could be going out in a 56,000 mile off-lease 330i, what the signs of a clutch going out would be, and could possibly give some insight as to what is involved in replacing the clutch - cost of parts, likelihood if DIY-ability. Almost out for the summer and need to decide whether to add the cost of a clutch to my mental list of costs.
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Apr 18, 2008 08:32
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Adnuo posted:Basically, I'm wondering what the chances are that the clutch could be going out in a 56,000 mile off-lease 330i, what the signs of a clutch going out would be, and could possibly give some insight as to what is involved in replacing the clutch - cost of parts, likelihood if DIY-ability. Almost out for the summer and need to decide whether to add the cost of a clutch to my mental list of costs. 56,000 miles is definitely within the realm of possibility for a worn out clutch, especially on a sporty car that has a questionable history of how it was driven. The usual method of testing the slippage of a clutch is to drive about 25-30mph, then shift into your highest gear (5th, 6th, whatever). Now floor the accelerator. If your engine speed starts rising but your vehicle speed does not, congrats, your clutch is on its way out.
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Apr 18, 2008 08:35
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Guinness posted:56,000 miles is definitely within the realm of possibility for a worn out clutch, especially on a sporty car that has a questionable history of how it was driven. Really? My M3 is on the stock clutch at ~89,000. I learned to drive on this car, as have 2 other people, and it is only beginning to slip. Often people confuse tire slippage for clutch slippage. Check your tires?
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Apr 18, 2008 08:43
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Pissingintowind posted:Really? My M3 is on the stock clutch at ~89,000. I learned to drive on this car, as have 2 other people, and it is only beginning to slip. I know for a fact that my tires are shot - those are first on that mental cost list. However, I was out driving tonight with a friend of mine who just picked up his El Camino from storage (yay Minnesota, it's finally getting warm - just reinstated my insurance) and I tried lighting my tires up. I got a lot of slipping, but I didn't hear much of my tires and the smell that followed smelled too much like a burning clutch. I haven't noticed anything during normal driving yet, so I'm going to do the mentioned 25mph pull in fifth and see what happens. Also, holy poo poo those were quick replies. Here's to the late-night browsing crew 
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Apr 18, 2008 08:57
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Pissingintowind posted:Really? My M3 is on the stock clutch at ~89,000. I learned to drive on this car, as have 2 other people, and it is only beginning to slip. Don't get me wrong, a clutch can last a long rear end time. My Miata is on the stock clutch at 76k, my old 535i was on the stock clutch at 130k, and my dad's '91 Nissan truck is on the stock clutch at 180k (which I and my brother learned on). If you're nice to it, a clutch can last a very long time, especially in something that isn't too exotic. Learning to drive on a car doesn't necessarily kill the clutch. But driving like a dickhead doing 4000rpm clutch dumps and/or just generally slipping the clutch too often certainly does. With a freshly out-of-lease vehicle with 56,000 miles on it I wouldn't be surprised at all if the previous owner treated it like a rental car... since to him that's what it basically was. Guinness fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Apr 18, 2008 |
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Apr 18, 2008 09:36
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Guinness posted:Don't get me wrong, a clutch can last a long rear end time. My Miata is on the stock clutch at 76k, my old 535i was on the stock clutch at 130k, and my dad's '91 Nissan truck is on the stock clutch at 180k (which I and my brother learned on). If you're nice to it, a clutch can last a very long time, especially in something that isn't too exotic. I got up to 188k on the original clutch in my old 1992 525. I probably could have broken 200k with it but the flywheel was baked so figured I'd replace the clutch at the same time. Adnuo, if your tires are poo poo then it's entirely possible you were spinning the wheels but they just weren't making much noise (like spinning them on wet asphalt). But yeah, do what Guinness said to test for slippage. The e46 clutch should last to 100-150k with normal useage. But all it takes is for the previous owner to be a retard and drive with his foot resting on the clutch pedal to blow that number. Previous owner of my e46 went through a clutch ever 16k miles (three clutch replacements total) because of the old foot-rest-retardedness.
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Apr 18, 2008 14:16
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OK you guys, what looks better: The production BMW 2002 (turbo model shown)  Or the 2002 Frua GT4, which is essentially a 2002 but with a different body. This is what the 2002 almost looked like (shown is the prototype, before they decided to go the other direction).  A link to all the other Frua-bodied cars: http://www.pietro-frua.de/bmw.htm
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Apr 18, 2008 14:42
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CornHolio posted:OK you guys, what looks better: Well, since the Frua thing looks like the result of a drunken coupling between a BMW 2800 and a Datsun 240Z, I'd have to go with the 2002.
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Apr 18, 2008 14:57
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Looks vaguely like an Alfa. Voted 2002.
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Apr 18, 2008 15:17
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I think up to the windshield the Frau GT4 looks better, but the rest of the 2002 looks better. The 2002 grill looks like a cicada.
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Apr 18, 2008 15:37
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CornHolio posted:OK you guys, what looks better: It doesn't look bad, the 2002 just looks a lot cooler. More BMW.
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Apr 18, 2008 15:46
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milieu posted:I think up to the windshield the Frau GT4 looks better, but the rest of the 2002 looks better. The 2002 grill looks like a cicada. What he said. I wonder if anyone has ever tried to bodge a Frua front end into a 2002? (actually in retrospect it looks like the Frua has a longer wheelbase so maybe that's not even possible)
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Apr 18, 2008 17:26
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Guinness posted:56,000 miles is definitely within the realm of possibility for a worn out clutch, especially on a sporty car that has a questionable history of how it was driven. I went out and tried this today, and my clutch passed with flying colors. I was actually able to pull fine from 10-15mph through to a comfortable powerband - slowly. At this point I'm going with the explination of my well-worn tires are just spinning freely, with so little grip that I didn't get an associated squeal or smoke. Similarly, the smell that I thought was the clutch burning up could have just been the tires burning into different rubbers that are meant to build the tire base, not contact the road. Guess I just need to get tires on it and see what happens. Anyone have great tire suggestions for the 205/50/17 rims on an E46 330i? Cheaper would be better, but ultimately I'm looking for a good, mid- to high-mileage all-season. Ninja edit: Tire Rack suggests the Goodyear Eagle F1 AS for $139 per, or the Kumho Ecsta ASX for $100 per. The Ecstas are more ideal in price, but if the Eagles are that much better I could stretch the budget. Anyone have experience with either rubber? Edit edit: Looks like based on Tire Rack surveys, the Eagle has much better deep snow and ice traction, and slightly better treadwear. Being in Minnesota the winter traction is a huge bonus, and being a poor college student the better treadwear is a pretty nice bonus. Cellular Suicide fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Apr 18, 2008 |
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Apr 18, 2008 19:19
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Adnuo posted:I went out and tried this today, and my clutch passed with flying colors. I was actually able to pull fine from 10-15mph through to a comfortable powerband - slowly. At this point I'm going with the explination of my well-worn tires are just spinning freely, with so little grip that I didn't get an associated squeal or smoke. Similarly, the smell that I thought was the clutch burning up could have just been the tires burning into different rubbers that are meant to build the tire base, not contact the road. I use the Ecsta ASX, they're supposed to be the best bang for your buck.
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Apr 18, 2008 19:32
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Guinness posted:The usual method of testing the slippage of a clutch is to drive about 25-30mph, then shift into your highest gear (5th, 6th, whatever). Now floor the accelerator. If your engine speed starts rising but your vehicle speed does not, congrats, your clutch is on its way out. Actually the real test is putting the engine in its powerband in a higher gear. Usually 3rd. THEN flooring it. If it can hold everything together under peak engine power THEN you can say your clutch is AOK. 5th-6th at 30mph is what ~2,000rpm? Which the engine is making sub 100ft/lbs of torque? Testing to see if the clutch can handle full torque loads is a better test.
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Apr 18, 2008 19:57
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Ziploc posted:Actually the real test is putting the engine in its powerband in a higher gear. Usually 3rd. THEN flooring it. If it can hold everything together under peak engine power THEN you can say your clutch is AOK. That'll have to wait until the streets dry up, unfortunately.
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Apr 18, 2008 20:02
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I thought this was kind of neat... http://www.usautoparts.net/bmw/engines/6cyl.htm There is some really neat stuff on that site, like an explaination of VANOS http://www.usautoparts.net/bmw/technology/vanos.htm EDIT: OH GOD http://www.usautoparts.net/bmw/models/concepts/turbo.htm The original M1 concept  
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Apr 18, 2008 |
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Apr 18, 2008 20:15
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Adnuo posted:That'll have to wait until the streets dry up, unfortunately. Just press the brake pedal with your left foot. Carefully at first, since your left foot won't know how hard to press... but then you can hold the brake with the left and stand on the gas with your right. If the tach goes up and the speedo stays steady, you know where the problem is.
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Apr 18, 2008 20:19
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CornHolio posted:
I think I speak for us all when I say that I would do dirty, dirty things if it resulted in the production of, and my accession of this car. Regarding the 2002 / Frua comparison, I think that the 2002 looks much better as a car of its time and deserves great accolades as the car that more-or-less launched the sport compact sedan segment. On the other hand, the Frua grille, if put on the 2002, would have resulted in improvement.
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Apr 18, 2008 21:54
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Adnuo posted:At this point I'm going with the explination of my well-worn tires are just spinning freely, with so little grip that I didn't get an associated squeal or smoke. I doubt it. The E46 has DSC which will prevent wheelspin at all costs when active (which is the default). It does this by cutting power (electronic throttle control) and braking the wheels. When you say your clutch is "slipping" are the RPMs shooting up really high but the car isn't going forward? Or when you drop the clutch does the car just kinda sit there and slowly move forward but the RPMs stay in a reasonable range? If it's the former, you're clutch is slipping. If it's the latter, that's DSC throttle control doing it's thing. When I had my E46, you could side-step the clutch all day long but the car just kinda sat there and didn't lurch forward as you'd expect. My E39 does something similar and I just had the clutch replaced. Turn DSC off completely (hold the DSC button until both the orange triangle AND the orange "BRAKE" light are on), rev to 4000 RPM and drop the clutch. She should catch and the car should leave a nice burnout (peg-leg because of the open diff). EDIT: Don't make a habit of dropping the clutch like that. It's for sure not good for the car.
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Apr 19, 2008 02:52
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What is that down by the pedals in the M1 concept? Flux capacitors?
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Apr 19, 2008 02:54
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What is an acceptable substitute to BMW factory oil for E46s? BMW recommends their own oil (duh!) or any synthetic rated ACEA A3 / API SH. It seems that ACEA A3 is really hard to come by in off-shelf 5w-30 oils. The only Mobil 1 that fits that rating is 0w-40. Should I really care about this stuff or just happily put Mobil 1 5w-30 every 5k like I do in my other cars.
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Apr 19, 2008 18:36
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Bateau posted:What is an acceptable substitute to BMW factory oil for E46s? BMW recommends their own oil (duh!) or any synthetic rated ACEA A3 / API SH. It seems that ACEA A3 is really hard to come by in off-shelf 5w-30 oils. The only Mobil 1 that fits that rating is 0w-40. The "BMW" oil is Castrol Syntec 5W30. It's actually quite a bit cheaper at the dealership with the CCA discount than at AutoZone or Sears or anywhere else I could find. I pay around $4/quart. Pissingintowind posted:A question for all you E36 M guys:
Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Apr 19, 2008 |
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Apr 19, 2008 20:48
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Bateau posted:What is an acceptable substitute to BMW factory oil for E46s? BMW recommends their own oil (duh!) or any synthetic rated ACEA A3 / API SH. It seems that ACEA A3 is really hard to come by in off-shelf 5w-30 oils. The only Mobil 1 that fits that rating is 0w-40. One oil that seems to be a very popular substitute is castrol syntec 0w-30 'european formula' (autozone usually stocks it). Mobil 1 0w40 seems to be another popular choice. For my e46 I narrowed my choices down to amsoil european car formula 5w40, or Castrol syntec 0w30. Since the castrol meets all BMW's official requirements, I went with that. There's a lot of speculation that BMW's 5w30 and the Syntec 0w30 are better than the other off-the-shelf versions of syntec - something about them being made in germany and german laws supposedly not allowing a group III oil to be called synthetic. No idea how much truth there is to this, but I do know the 0w30 was the only grade of it at autozone which says 'made in germany' on the bottle.
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Apr 19, 2008 22:27
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Pissingintowind posted:The "BMW" oil is Castrol Syntec 5W30. It's actually quite a bit cheaper at the dealership with the CCA discount than at AutoZone or Sears or anywhere else I could find. I pay around $4/quart. I've heard the Hawk's are good. I personally chose the Axxis XBG's. They seem to dust much less than stocks, not a very bad decrease in stopping power.
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Apr 20, 2008 04:08
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