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iroc_dis posted:
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Apr 25, 2008 01:53
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hedge posted:Awesome, but it didn't quite go according to plan. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gW0IHJdlH-4 That was the plan to shed some useless weight. You don't need the entire car to do donuts after all! 
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Apr 25, 2008 07:59
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hedge posted:Awesome, but it didn't quite go according to plan. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gW0IHJdlH-4 Front wing costs more than my entire car 
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Apr 25, 2008 07:59
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Are e30s safe to drive without power steering? I have a chance to buy this  'd e30 for a low price. He took out the A/C (harsh), the power steering and the backseat. I know none of my friends could fit in the back, but it looks ugly.It has some MODS such as a Magnaflow exhaust, chip and intake (it's the 325e btw). It has 14" BBS rims and an M3 wing. The black part on the front bumper is messed up, is that easy to place? There is a rust hole in the trunk to the left under the sunroof run off. A few small dents and dings. However, it has 140k and needs the timing belt & water pump combo replaced ASAP. I offered him $1,200 before he told me that, do you think it'd be worth that or less?
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Apr 25, 2008 15:22
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Are e30s safe to drive without power steering? I have a chance to buy this I'd probably try and pay less for that. What year is it?
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Apr 25, 2008 16:00
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hedge posted:Awesome, but it didn't quite go according to plan. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gW0IHJdlH-4 LOL! Oh no, that has to be a very  moment.
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Apr 25, 2008 16:40
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TractionControl posted:I'd probably try and pay less for that. What year is it? It's a 1987 325e 5 speed. How does the car drive w/o power steering? He said it's better & more responsive, but I wanted you guys' opinions. What do you think I should offer him, maybe a grand a see where he goes from there?
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Apr 25, 2008 17:15
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I've got a little situation that I would like some input on. The car: 1991 E30 318is The symptom: After about 50 MPH, I get a mechanical sounding whine from the rear of the car, sounds like something is spinning. The pitch changes with speed, higher when going faster, lower when slower. Engine RPM has nothing to do with it, nor does the gear I am in. I have tried shifting into neutral at speed, as well as shutting off the engine. The sound remains. What I have done: So far, I have new rear wheel bearings (both sides) and I swapped in a used 4.10 LSD that was in much better shape than my old one, ordered from diffsonline.com. So I am kind of stuck at the moment, I am thinking about checking out the guibo flexplate thing and the center support for the driveshaft. My axles could probably use new CV joints, but I would not think those would produce the sound I am getting. I have also checked out the fuel pump, it appears to be fine and is about 8 months old, it makes a tiny bit of sound, but it is constant. The car runs fine, its just a really annoying noise. Any thoughts?
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Apr 25, 2008 17:49
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Super Aggro Crag posted:It's a 1987 325e 5 speed. How does the car drive w/o power steering? He said it's better & more responsive, but I wanted you guys' opinions. What do you think I should offer him, maybe a grand a see where he goes from there? I have an '85 325e without power steering and it's perfectly fine as long as you aren't trying to move the wheel while stationary. Parking lots can be a little bit of a pain, but it's really no big deal.
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Apr 25, 2008 17:54
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Dyscrasia posted:I've got a little situation that I would like some input on. Sounds like some noisy gear lash in the differential. You say you just swapped your LSD? Check and make sure you aren't leaking out your pumpkin and if so tighten down your diff cover add a little more fluid and a bottle of Lucas or other oil stabilizer. Leak or no I still recommend adding oil stabilizer. That should solve the problem, otherwise there could be some serious pinion bearing or gear damage and a new ring and pinion might be in order. If that doesn't solve it and the noise really really really bothers you, throw a banana in there (its what shady used car dealers do to sell cars with hosed up rears!) Fake edit: Don't really throw a banana in there unless you really wanna replace all the poo poo in your pumpkin.
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Apr 25, 2008 19:19
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Noeland posted:Sounds like some noisy gear lash in the differential. You say you just swapped your LSD? Check and make sure you aren't leaking out your pumpkin and if so tighten down your diff cover add a little more fluid and a bottle of Lucas or other oil stabilizer. . That should solve the problem, otherwise there could be some serious pinion bearing or gear damage and a new ring and pinion might be in order. A banana? Wow, I had no idea. Yea, I swapped the LSD over the weekend. Ill check the fluid levels, I filled it up before installing it (it was level, its not overfilled or anything), and have not had a chance to check it yet, it sat for most of the week because I broke a tie rod end installing some springs. drat BMW for making the tierod and swaybar nuts the same size but different thread. Do I use just regular oil stabilizer, or is there a differential oil stabilizer? If it is the pinion bearing, well poo poo, the reason I went with diffsonline.com rather than a private seller was to make sure I got a good one.
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Apr 25, 2008 20:04
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Dyscrasia posted:
Oil stabilizers are pretty run of the mill and any one should work fine unless it states specifically for engine oil or diff fluid. I just usually stick with Lucas because it comes in a big bottle and its compatible with both crankcase oil and diff fluid, plus it is what my engine builder recommended I use after breaking in anything. Also, if your pumpkin was leaking, and you used a proper tightening pattern as well as proper torque on the bolts when reinstalling the cover, you may want to replace the gasket as well as use some RTV if you didn't before (but don't go overboard with the stuff). Just remember to let the RTV cure before putting fluids in.
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Apr 25, 2008 20:21
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Dyscrasia posted:I've got a little situation that I would like some input on. I'm gonna go with the driveshaft support bearing. It should be pretty cheap to replace, but you'll probably have to take the driveshaft to a shop to have the old bearing pressed off and the new one pressed on.
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Apr 25, 2008 20:26
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mungtor posted:I'm gonna go with the driveshaft support bearing. It should be pretty cheap to replace, but you'll probably have to take the driveshaft to a shop to have the old bearing pressed off and the new one pressed on. If he replaced the diff that is what it sounds like to me as well..
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Apr 25, 2008 20:44
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That center support bearing hidden inside the tunnel, so I have not had a chance to take a look at it, but its definately something I suspected, I was not sure if it would make the noise I am getting. My flex disk has some small cracks, but otherwise seems solid. $40 for a flex disk, $25 for a center bearing. May as well hit everything when the driveshaft is out. Not bad as far as BMW parts go *cough*$700driveshaft*cough*. I will pick up some oil stabilizer tonight and check the LSD for leaks. EDIT: I checked things out. No leaks, plenty of fluid. I put a tiny bit of lucas oil stabalizer in. There is a storm coming, no time to swap some of the existing fluid out. Dyscrasia fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Apr 25, 2008 |
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Apr 25, 2008 20:58
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it's not that hard to do, just drop the exhaust+shields and then pop the driveshaft loose from the guibo. the tricky part is bending the shaft down and out enough to let you pull the front half out without messing with the subframe or diff. you'll need circlip pliers and a rubber mallet to deal with the bearing itself, maybe a gear puller if you're unlucky. and mark the driveshaft before you pull it apart, it is balanced.
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Apr 25, 2008 22:54
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No idea if this is new but I found a fix for glovebox sag. I am going to try it out if I hear or find some good reports. http://www.understeer.com/glovebox.shtml It might be useful to edit the first post of this megathread and put in links to pre-purchase information relevant to the E30/E36/E46/E39/E34 models as they're most commonly asked about. Said links can usually be found in the FAQ thread for any division of an Exx chassis' at Bimmerforums to my knowledge.
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Apr 27, 2008 03:09
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^^^^ I tried that on my car and all I have to show for it are two holes in the dash.
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Apr 27, 2008 03:12
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:^^^^ I tried that on my car and all I have to show for it are two holes in the dash. I did it, and it worked (fixed it) flawlessly. You must have failed somewhere, maybe misaligned it. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Apr 27, 2008 |
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Apr 27, 2008 04:04
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two_beer_bishes posted:Having a problem with my 325e: Oh man, I have this exact same problem. I bought the car like this so I didn't know it was abnormal. It's been really easy for me to live with (I just keep it above 2,500 until it warms up heh,) but it'd be nice to fix it. When you find out the solution, please tell me.
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Apr 27, 2008 13:37
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Pimpsolo posted:Oh man, I have this exact same problem. I bought the car like this so I didn't know it was abnormal. It's been really easy for me to live with (I just keep it above 2,500 until it warms up heh,) but it'd be nice to fix it. When you find out the solution, please tell me. Oddly enough, I unplugged the o2 sensor and it's been running perfectly since then. I'm going to plug it back in today if I leave the house just to see if that really is my problem.
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Apr 27, 2008 13:54
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Hey guys. Just got the clutch kit for my 97 540i here. I have everything off the car already except for the flywheel. Any hint on what exactly is needed to remove it? My neighbor mentioned something like a long T-60 torx or something but BMW dealerships here won't let you buy tools.
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Apr 28, 2008 20:23
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Xenoid posted:Hey guys. Just got the clutch kit for my 97 540i here. I have everything off the car already except for the flywheel. Any hint on what exactly is needed to remove it? My neighbor mentioned something like a long T-60 torx or something but BMW dealerships here won't let you buy tools. I was pretty sure that the long torx tool was needed to remove the transmission, but the flywheel was straightforward. I'll try to remember to look in my Bentley manual when I get home.
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Apr 28, 2008 20:34
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mungtor posted:I was pretty sure that the long torx tool was needed to remove the transmission, but the flywheel was straightforward. I'll try to remember to look in my Bentley manual when I get home. Ok thanks. It seems to be a 6 sided star-shape thing that is about 3cm into the flywheel or something. EDIT: Found it in the TIS.  The tricky part is trying to find this fucker around town. The dealer won't sell ANY tools to me. Xenoid fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Apr 28, 2008 |
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Apr 28, 2008 20:42
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I joined the cult yesterday.  As you may be able to tell from the pics, it's a 2002 M3. I got a great deal. The car has been meticulously maintained. All the service history is there and I even have all the original reciepts. After lots of hand-wringing and a nearly year long search of looking at cars like the C5/C6 Corvette, Evo X, 350Z nothing inspired me like the M3. Having bought it, I can't conceive how I even thought about getting another car. The only modification I plan on doing is adding a front strut tower brace. The best new car I've ever had is a used BMW 
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Apr 29, 2008 16:49
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Can anybody with access to TIS get instructions on rebuilding the steering rack in my '85 325e? One of the other forums has the german TIS info but I'm tired of trying to translate every word.
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Apr 30, 2008 00:18
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Anybody replaced a front wheel bearing (full hub assembly obviously) on an E36? Do I really need a 46mm socket and 210 ft lbs of torque??? two_beer_bishes, that reminds me I need to try to install the ETK/TIS CDs I got off a torrent site many months ago. That could come in handy...
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Apr 30, 2008 04:21
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So, E36 alignment suggestions. This is for a car that sees 90% normal driving, and 10% spirited. I was thinking 0 toe up front, .1* toe-in at the rear, and 1.8* negative camber? Does this sound good?
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Apr 30, 2008 04:24
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Bateau posted:What is an acceptable substitute to BMW factory oil for E46s? BMW recommends their own oil (duh!) or any synthetic rated ACEA A3 / API SH. It seems that ACEA A3 is really hard to come by in off-shelf 5w-30 oils. The only Mobil 1 that fits that rating is 0w-40. Unless you live in a pretty cold climate, my experience is that 30w oil is too thin for most BMW applications. I actually have run only Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil in my all my BMWs for the past 3 years or so, but regardless of type, I'd run a 40 or even 50 weight through the summer. For the E46 M3, you want to run only 10W-60. 30 is just too thin unless you're in the north in the winter. -- I posted over here and maybe this thread is a better place: Opinions wanted: I had the option of 25.4mm or 27mm front sway bar from UUC. Their "normal" application is the 25.4mm bar for the M and non-M E36, but the SPEC E36 or "race" bar is a 27mm but with spherical bushings. Since I plan to *eventually* have a SPEC E36 car, I got the 27mm bar with standard (street) bushings, so I can just swap bushings/end links down the road and use the big bar. Is a 27mm UUC bar too big for "normal" use? A lot of people claim that this will induce too much understeer, but other people like GroovinPickle have told me in the past that that is just hearsay and bollocks. What says AI? I've got a 27mm bar on a UPS truck en route, so I'm going to find out one way or another. miklm fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 30, 2008 |
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Apr 30, 2008 04:29
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miklm posted:Unless you live in a pretty cold climate, my experience is that 30w oil is too thin for most BMW applications. I actually have run only Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil in my all my BMWs for the past 3 years or so, but regardless of type, I'd run a 40 or even 50 weight through the summer. For the E46 M3, you want to run only 10W-60. 30 is just too thin unless you're in the north in the winter. I thought that the 'bmw' oil was just Castrol Syntec 5w30 full synthetic? I'm also curious as to why you think its too thin in general, since a while ago there was interesting discussion (different thread) on why 0w20 would be best for anything but racing ferraris in Florida in the summer.
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Apr 30, 2008 17:11
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Tell me stuff about a 2006 BMW Z4 M Roadster. There was a white one at the local Land Rover dealership and it caught my eye. I'm going back to test drive it today. Any outstanding issues to look for? I'm slightly concerned about its viability as a daily driver, although I'd be keeping my truck as well. It has every option on earth, white with maroon interior and black softtop. They want $42k. I imagine that is too high considering the incentives BMW was pushing last year. KS fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Apr 30, 2008 |
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Apr 30, 2008 18:16
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KS posted:It has every option on earth, white with maroon interior and black softtop. They want $42k. I imagine that is too high considering the incentives BMW was pushing last year. "Every option on earth" isn't much on a Z4. You can get the gps, radio options, seat crap and that's about all that is notable; you can't really rack up 15k in options like you can on a 3 series.
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Apr 30, 2008 19:54
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miklm posted:Anybody replaced a front wheel bearing (full hub assembly obviously) on an E36? Do I really need a 46mm socket and 210 ft lbs of torque??? Yes and yes. Rent a torque wrench that goes to 250 lb-ft. My local AutoZone had one, 1/2" drive. Also, rent a three arm puller. The old hub assembly will probably come out, but the inner race tends to stick on the axle. The 46mm nut can also come off with a 1-13/16" socket, available at many more places than a 46mm (TSC Tractor Supply had one). You can use a 4" length of 1-1/2" pipe with some tape to get the new hub on the axle. Apply force to only the inner race.
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Apr 30, 2008 21:48
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Are any of you polo wearing, hands free headset owners going to BIMMERFEST?! Santa Barbara on may 3rd.
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Apr 30, 2008 23:20
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mungtor posted:TractionControl posted:Wiglaf posted:it's not that hard to do, just drop the exhaust+shields and then pop the driveshaft loose from the guibo. the tricky part is bending the shaft down and out enough to let you pull the front half out without messing with the subframe or diff. I just got the parts in the mail. I did not realize that the center support was actually a bearing, like a regular wheel bearing/ball bearing. When I replaced the driveshaft on my Nissan, the center support was just a rubber piece. I figured this was the same. I bet that this is the solution. Hopefully I will be able to find out for sure this weekend.
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Apr 30, 2008 23:21
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Ultimate Mango posted:I thought that the 'bmw' oil was just Castrol Syntec 5w30 full synthetic? I missed that thread, but BMWs love thick oil. The E46 M3 motor only takes 10W-60 full synthetic Castrol. The M50, M52, and M54 motors tend to get a little chatter in the top end with SAE30 oils, and it goes away with a 40-50 weight. Many E36 guys run a 20W-50 synthetic Mobil1. AMSOIL's "European" formula for BMW, Porsche, MB, etc., is a 5W-40 synthetic. This is just some anecdotal data, but I've certainly never doubted my choice to run 15W-40 in my M50/M52 cars. Are you going to significantly shorten the life of the car running it on 10W-30? Unlikely, but I just sleep better at night with thicker oil in my crankcase. I also live in the southeast and my cars are garaged, so I don't deal with cold starts and I do most track days in the dead of summer. I usually do a 5000 street miles oil change interval, or before a track event. That's what's worked well for me, ymmv. balakadaka posted:Yes and yes. Rent a torque wrench that goes to 250 lb-ft. My local AutoZone had one, 1/2" drive. Also, rent a three arm puller. The old hub assembly will probably come out, but the inner race tends to stick on the axle. The 46mm nut can also come off with a 1-13/16" socket, available at many more places than a 46mm (TSC Tractor Supply had one). 210 ft lbs means "as hard as you can f'ing hammer it down" in the miklm service manual so I'm not worried about the torque wrench. David's big one might go that high anyway, if not its in the upper 100s so that plus an extra grunt should secure it. I can also get a 46mm socket easily, I just wanted to make sure that is in fact what I need before I order this stuff, and analyzing whether this is a home garage DIY or a wait and take it to the family shop in TN type project. I'm thinking the latter, because it isn't urgent, but I suspect I have a passenger side bearing going bad. I just hope its the front, not rear... Thanks! miklm fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 1, 2008 |
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May 1, 2008 03:58
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miklm posted:I've got a 27mm bar on a UPS truck en route, so I'm going to find out one way or another. I've got a 28mm H&R (non-M fitment) set at full stiff and I love it. Minimizing body roll and maintaining camber curve > a bit of understeer.
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May 1, 2008 04:54
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miklm posted:210 ft lbs means "as hard as you can f'ing hammer it down" in the miklm service manual so I'm not worried about the torque wrench. David's big one might go that high anyway, if not its in the upper 100s so that plus an extra grunt should secure it. No prob, but I was surprised how high the 210 really was. For me, I had someone applying brakes with the wheel bolted back onto the hub. I was leaning on the torque wrench and pushing hard as hell for a good 30 secs. before I heard the click. I can't imagine what tightening a flywheel is like.
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May 1, 2008 05:26
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Dyscrasia posted:I just got the parts in the mail. I did not realize that the center support was actually a bearing, like a regular wheel bearing/ball bearing. When I replaced the driveshaft on my Nissan, the center support was just a rubber piece. I figured this was the same. Pelican diy here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Driveshaft_Bearing/E36-Driveshaft_Bearing.htm
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May 1, 2008 13:49
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krysmopompas posted:You could have practically bought a new one for 42k last fall. Dealer asking prices in Wisconsin for sub-10k mile '06 Z4Ms are around 38k, so unless you're paying in California dollars that's way too much. I read about that incentive. I wish I'd been paying attention. Mid 30s is what I was thinking, but I test drove it and it's not what I'm looking for. Plusses: It handles great, has plenty of power, and is a blast to drive. The steering especially is loving perfect and I can't imagine driving a vanilla Z4 with the electric steering after driving the M. Minuses: Suspension probably a bit too unforgiving for a daily driver, clutch is heavy. I think it might have had crappy fuel in it because when the hood was lifted there was a definite ticking noise, and the "check gas cap" light was on for most of the test drive. Oh, and the whole loving hood latch assembly was missing which I found out mid-test drive. That was exciting!
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May 1, 2008 18:00
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