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My stocker 1996 only could do -.6 in the front, so if you still have stock shocks, go -.5 in the front and -1 in the rear. I have Koni Yellows on now, and I'm able to do the Lanny Alignment.
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Apr 25, 2008 00:06
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I was going to get Lannys since I'll have his setup soon. (Illuminas, FM sways, stock springs all sitting on my floor) http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html Thoughts?
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Apr 25, 2008 05:11
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Ziploc posted:I was going to get Lannys since I'll have his setup soon. (Illuminas, FM sways, stock springs all sitting on my floor) I had the lanny alignment from september till about a month ago and didn't notice any unusual wear with my 50-mile/day drive. I just changed to icehawks specs after putting my bushings in since they aren't all that much different and I don't care much for my all season tires.
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Apr 25, 2008 06:07
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i have been thinking about getting a miata, and i was wondering what year did they switch over to premium fuel? how/what kind of difference would it make for me to use regular instead of premium fuel on the models that recommend premium? plus, i've never driven a manual before. are miata's good for learning?
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Apr 25, 2008 17:02
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phootnote posted:i have been thinking about getting a miata, and i was wondering what year did they switch over to premium fuel? how/what kind of difference would it make for me to use regular instead of premium fuel on the models that recommend premium? plus, i've never driven a manual before. are miata's good for learning? Running regular in a car that takes premium is never a good idea. If you cant afford premium then look for another car. Miatas are very easy to learn in I think. The clutch is easy and the gear shift is very precise.
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Apr 25, 2008 17:16
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phootnote posted:i have been thinking about getting a miata, and i was wondering what year did they switch over to premium fuel? It's either 2000 or 2001. I have a '99 and it takes regular, so it was definitely after that.
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Apr 25, 2008 17:55
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Cenuji posted:It's either 2000 or 2001. I have a '99 and it takes regular, so it was definitely after that. Yeah, it was part of the refresh in 2001 - they also got some rudimentary variable valve timing. Annoyingly the changes they made to require premium also resulted in what amounted to a very small horsepower bump - on the order of about 5hp. So if you're going to cringe every time you have to hit the 91 octane button, just get a '00 or earlier. The '04-'05 MSM, as far as I know, goes back to the '99-'00 setup, but obviously needs premium for a very different reason 
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Apr 25, 2008 18:06
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GOD IT HURTS SO BADLY I HAVE TO PUT 91 OCTANE INTO MY CAR AND IT COSTS ME TWO DOLLARS MORE A loving TANK AND I AM A WHINY oval office WHOSE BELT IS CINCHED SO TIGHT IT IS CAUSING INTERNAL ORGAN DAMAGE Jesus loving christ, people.
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Apr 25, 2008 18:38
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For anyone interested, my 2000 SE is up on eBay. It's got a spec miata suspension, a hard dog hard core rollbar, stainless steel brake lines, and polyurethane bushings. It's also got a lifetime alignment down at Firestone, so you can realign it for free whenever you like. 
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Apr 25, 2008 19:42
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I need a new suspension setup because my stock shocks puked a long time ago. I'm not really sure what to get as I don't understand much about suspension components, specifically how to figure out what kind of ride height I'm going to get and other things like that. From my limited knowledge, I've put together 2 plans: code:
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Apr 25, 2008 19:46
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Amir posted:I need a new suspension setup because my stock shocks puked a long time ago. I'm not really sure what to get as I don't understand much about suspension components, specifically how to figure out what kind of ride height I'm going to get and other things like that. For the record, it's stiff, but not so much that it causes the CD player to skip or girlfriends to complain.
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Apr 25, 2008 19:56
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einTier posted:For the record, my Spec Miata suspension, which included bumpstops, Bilstein coilovers (adjustable perch height, rebuildable), Eibach springs, and Eibach adjustable sways was $1300. Just a thought. I have no idea how extreme you want to go, but when I did it, it was pretty much the best bang for my buck. Please, I know you think it's great, but stop suggesting this. The SM suspension is quite possibly the worst thing you could spend $1300 on. If it cost $700, then fine, but the spring rates are wrong, and the shocks are not even remotely valved for the springrates. The only way the SM suspension can be good is if you were to revalve the Bilsteins and tweak the rates, and then you've just dumped $1700 into a non-adjustable suspension.  Amir, I would do the second set of things you posted, but do Konis instead of Illuminas. The Illuminas are good for stock spring rates, but the Konis give you a lot of room to grow into a stiffer setup if you want to later. With Konis, stock springs, FM sways, and FCM mounts/bumps, you're up to $1100 or so, and you can add Ground Controls at any time and not change anything other than the alignment. 
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Apr 25, 2008 20:17
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About how much does the camber change in a Miata when a driver sits in it? Who's say 165-170lbs?
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Apr 25, 2008 21:36
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Slothophile posted:I'd love to see you try to put on a hard top at 70mph... 70mph is excessive, but it is definately possible to pull it up while cruising up to 40mph. Somehow it's even easier than in the Z3, even though it weighs less.
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Apr 26, 2008 10:50
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http://youtube.com/watch?v=8wCII2lF_x8 I can't say I recommend this.
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Apr 27, 2008 11:21
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Classic "It's time to buy some parts"
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Apr 27, 2008 11:36
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Now every time I see someone break something I'll want to say "It's time to buy some parts!" 
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Apr 27, 2008 16:35
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I'm saving up for a fun daily driver. I'm considering an e30 3 series or an NA miata. I'm looking to spend $4-5k. Gas mileage is important, but reliability is more important. I don't mind doing most of the wrenching myself. The only thing that might be a problem with the miata is that I'm a big dude(6'3", large frame), so I hope I can fit. I don't mind if it's tight, but I don't want my knees slammed up against the steering wheel, and to be hunched over. I know this is the miata thread, so opinions will be biased, but I just wanted some miata owners thoughts on the matter.
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Apr 27, 2008 18:26
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cods posted:I'm saving up for a fun daily driver. I'm considering an e30 3 series or an NA miata. I'm looking to spend $4-5k. I think this was already discussed in this thread. The cliffs notes version is that you will have to sit in a miata yourself. Some large people fit and some small people dont fit. It depends a lot on your torso length and leg length.
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Apr 27, 2008 19:09
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cods posted:I'm saving up for a fun daily driver. I'm considering an e30 3 series or an NA miata. I'm looking to spend $4-5k. Willing to spend a little more? You can have this fine example of a miata. I also want to whore out some photos I just took.   
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Apr 28, 2008 01:54
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Phone posted:Hey, I have some RS2s coming my way, too. Just got mine on the car today. Very nice improvement overall even if they are a decent bit taller than the stock 185/60's, and as a bonus the shop that did them balanced them dead-on. The last set (installed by the dealer before we bought the car) had developed a pretty annoying case of the 65MPH shimmy over the past 40,000 miles.
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Apr 28, 2008 02:09
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Mine are sitting in my parents' garage, but I have a set of Hawk HP+ in there, so I'm going to head down to NAPA and get some rotors and do the brakes hoepfully next weekend and get my RS2s mounted on the 14x6 stockers, and put the Ziex 912s (185/65/14) put onto the daisies I have. Not to mention new door speakers and a new headunit, and getting the girlfriend to sew up the softtop. Yay upgrades. Savington, what diff are you going with? The sexy Australian one?
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Apr 28, 2008 02:34
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Apr 28, 2008 07:26
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That is some proper carnage. What a drag, Savington, that right after you get your engine almost totally sorted out that you blow apart your rear end. It's time to buy some parts!  But you're definitely living the dream, man. I've owned my Miata almost a year and a half now, and I'm really starting to get the "it's too slow" feeling. I still have a shitload of fun with it, especially as summer approaches, but you make me want to turbo my car so bad. Well, except for the whole differential-blowing shenanigans.
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Apr 28, 2008 07:33
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Well we all knew it was comming, but that still sucks Savington. You're the reason I've decided to keep my miata and go for a turbo instead of trading it in at the end of this year. Does anyone have any opinions on the Flyin Miata AFCO suspension yet or is it still too early/expensive to tell? It's my daily right now but after next christmas and tax refund I'm getting a new car for daily driving and making the miata into a full on canyon/track car. I'm looking at really harsh road conditions here so I need a suspension setup that can handle pot holes as well as it can handle incredibly twisty roads. I'm considering Ohlins, Magic JICs and FMs new AFCO setup. I already have some fairly used FM springs/sways and KYB AGX shocks for my NB, but I really don't like the way the AGXs ride no matter what they are set to. I want to do my suspension right and I don't mind paying extra for quality/adjustability. Opinions/comments?
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Apr 28, 2008 08:41
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Savington, you rule! that was awesome. Kaaz LSD's are supposed to be able to handle a pretty good beating, and they arent too expensive (I paid 730 shipped for mine) Phone: I just put in some HP+ and Napa Ultra Premium Rotors (18$ a piece brembos) The Break in was great, doing the race situation stops at night is way cool with sparks flying out of the wheel wells. And I'll be putting 225/45/15 RS2's on wednesday. Oh and I installed the RB hollow front bar but havent tested it yet.
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Apr 29, 2008 04:03
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This is going to be my first brake change, and my rear HP+s came with grease, the fronts didn't. 
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Apr 29, 2008 07:52
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Hay guys, look at my valve... :iamafag: Took me three weeks to get it sorted out, and I am still waiting on one screw for the cam bearings which broke in the process (I just used a different screw, which is probably not suitable for that kind of force over a longer period of time, so I will replace it next week). But now I don't have to rev up to 4500 to get the car moving Feels like a whole new engine to me, I wonder how I managed to not notice this faulty valve during the first year of owning it. It ran louder and was vibrating when idling, but it ran up to 110mph 
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Apr 29, 2008 08:35
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phone: Go to napa or whatever and get some high temp synthetic brake grease, grease the sliders and back of the pads with it. a brake job should take about 3 hours for all 4 wheels taking it slow. someone with expericence can do the fronts in around 45 minutes.\ Edit: my super pro rear sway bar bushings came, woo!
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Apr 29, 2008 08:49
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Dicker posted:someone with expericence can do the fronts in around 45 minutes.\ I'd peg that at all four wheels in a bit over an hour. My dad and I did the pads all the way around on my '99 a year or so ago and it was literally the fastest brake job I've ever done. As long as you know how to properly retract the rear calipers it's really, really easy.
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Apr 29, 2008 14:44
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Pads and rotors takes a bit more time than just pads. Changing the front pads takes less that 30 minutes, The rear takes more time because you have to use that screw to adjust the caliper.
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Apr 29, 2008 16:19
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Dicker posted:Pads and rotors takes a bit more time than just pads. Changing the rotors on my car took forever... I had to physically beat them with a hammer as hard as i could before they broke loose
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Apr 29, 2008 17:20
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:Changing the rotors on my car took forever... I had to physically beat them with a hammer as hard as i could before they broke loose There's a cute little hole threaded for an M8 bolt that you screw in, tighten, and the whole thing pops off the hub. Hitting it with a hammer will bend poo poo.
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Apr 29, 2008 18:53
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Savington posted:There's a cute little hole threaded for an M8 bolt that you screw in, tighten, and the whole thing pops off the hub. Hitting it with a hammer will bend poo poo. I heard that you have a cute little hole and that if I screw in, you pop off. 
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Apr 30, 2008 00:43
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anti-sieze between the hub and the rotor helps that problem tremendously.
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Apr 30, 2008 03:29
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iscariot posted:anti-sieze between the hub and the rotor helps that problem tremendously. What if it migrates outward?
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Apr 30, 2008 05:15
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Savington posted:There's a cute little hole threaded for an M8 bolt that you screw in, tighten, and the whole thing pops off the hub. Hitting it with a hammer will bend poo poo. I know. That hole worked on one rotor. On the other three I put a bolt in, turned it a few times, then watched the threads on the inside of the hole come off and stick on the bolt. Sometimes a big hammer is the only way Amir posted:What if it migrates outward? If the rotor moves outward? It cannot, as it is held in place by the lugnuts and wheel.
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Apr 30, 2008 05:25
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Then you put on too much.
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Apr 30, 2008 06:30
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I just spray PB blaster behind the rotor and around the lugnuts and then whack it with a wooden mallet, pops off on the first or second try.
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Apr 30, 2008 08:49
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:If the rotor moves outward? It cannot, as it is held in place by the lugnuts and wheel. iscariot posted:Then you put on too much.
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Apr 30, 2008 10:00
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