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Amir posted:The anti-seize, fathead But the rotor cannot move, douchbag. The wheel is holding it in place. Have you ever removed a rotor on a miata?
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Apr 30, 2008 21:06
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:But the rotor cannot move, douchbag. The wheel is holding it in place. Have you ever removed a rotor on a miata? Read, comprehend, then post. Amir is asking/saying that getting anti-seize all over the rotor surface by putting too much between the hub and rotor would be a BAD thing for your braking ability, and hence would put you into a tree.
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Apr 30, 2008 21:11
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Never had a problem with using anti-seize between the hub and the rotor. I've done it on all the cars I've changed brakes on and it makes the next change go that much smoother.
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May 1, 2008 05:17
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Guinness posted:Read, comprehend, then post. Amir is asking/saying that getting anti-seize all over the rotor surface by putting too much between the hub and rotor would be a BAD thing for your braking ability, and hence would put you into a tree. The wheel spins at a very fast rate. Even a tiny bit of anti-seize has the potential to be flung outwards by centripetal force. I wouldn't risk it. Besides, bashing on the rotor with a hammer to free it from the hub is half the fun!
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May 1, 2008 05:26
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Is the standard size battery in a Miata large enough to give a mid-sized car a jump?
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May 1, 2008 06:22
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Yes.
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May 1, 2008 06:41
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why do some people store their miatas in the winter? is it bc they have another car for the winter specifically? miatas do not run so well in the winter? i don't know, and i am just curious for your reasons.
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May 1, 2008 06:47
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phootnote posted:why do some people store their miatas in the winter? is it bc they have another car for the winter specifically? miatas do not run so well in the winter? i don't know, and i am just curious for your reasons. Miatas don't have any more trouble than any other car running in the winter in a mechanical sense. However, they just aren't the most practical or comfortable car for cold/wet climates. And if you're in a snowy climate, a low-riding lightweight RWD convertible isn't exactly the first type of car that springs to mind for getting around. For many people, their Miata is their weekend/summer fun car, brought out mostly to cruise the boulevards or attack the mountain roads in the sun. That said, plenty of people do drive their Miatas year round. My Miata is my only car, and I drive it year round in Seattle with just the soft top. I do have a garage to park it in, though, so at least it doesn't get constant exposure to the elements. We're not a snowy climate at all though, just lots of rain. But I know many AIers drive their Miatas in snowy climates year round, too. Guinness fucked around with this message at 07:06 on May 1, 2008 |
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May 1, 2008 07:04
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Yeah, I took mine out in the snow in Wisconsin a couple times this winter out of necessity and it wasn't bad at all, although I've grown up with RWD cars my whole life and learned pretty early on that there's a right and a wrong time to get on the loud pedal.
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May 1, 2008 07:16
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phootnote posted:why do some people store their miatas in the winter? is it bc they have another car for the winter specifically? miatas do not run so well in the winter? i don't know, and i am just curious for your reasons. Miatas are actually really good in snow (with the proper tires). I've driven mine for four winters and I live right next to a ski resort that gets pounded with snow all the time. We actually just got more snow about two days ago... One of the things that makes miatas so good in the snow is their weight balance. When you start to slide, the car is really easy to control with the throttle (if you have the torsen). I just have an extra set of wheels with 185/60/14 studded snow tires that I run all winter and have only been stuck twice. You just have to watch out for deep snow that is packed in pretty hard. If it builds up under the car the weight comes off the tires and you are stuck digging yourself out. The only thing you have to worry about is if you are somewhere where the temperature goes below about -20 or so. At that temp the small battery cant really get the engine started. At -40 you better be parked in a garage because the engine wont even turn over. 
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May 1, 2008 16:29
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phootnote posted:why do some people store their miatas in the winter? is it bc they have another car for the winter specifically? miatas do not run so well in the winter? i don't know, and i am just curious for your reasons. I love driving the Miata in the winter. Any RWD car for that matter. As long as you have good tires on that can handle the snow, it's a blast. I store my Miata not because of the weather, but because of all the salt they dump on the roads. It's a rust-free car, and I intend to keep it that way. edit - to get rid of any confusion, my first Miata had some rust issues so I had no problem driving it year round.
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May 1, 2008 17:44
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  I found this BEHIND the radio today when I was working on my car. Like, behind the cubby... where you have to remove the console, pull eyeball vents, etc. BEHIND.
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May 2, 2008 04:18
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Performance/driveability wise, what's the difference between the 1.6 vs. the 1.8? If I can find a lower mileage 93' or a higher mileage 94+ for the same price, is there any reason I should go for the 1.8? Any interior size difference?
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May 2, 2008 06:16
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the 1.8' cars have Better brakes, engines and differentials. The 1993 has alot of the chassis reinforcements found on 1994+, Interior wise the passenger gets an airbag, and more legroom (ECU goes behind the passenger seat) I would take a 94 or 95 over any other year NA's
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May 2, 2008 07:38
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Phone posted:
When we were doing an Innovate LC-1 install in a friend's car, we found his digital camera behind his radio. 
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May 2, 2008 07:48
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Amir posted:Exactly. And how would that put you backward into a tree? Any small amount of anti-seize that makes it onto the rotor surface is going to burn off the first time you touch the brakes. Phone posted:
On the upside, that's a terrific album. 
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May 2, 2008 07:54
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Semi-crossposting from M.net: My slider rail for my seat is shorting out the headrest speaker (and all other speakers, too). What's the best way to remedy this? Just pull out the entire seat? If my memory serves me correctly, there isn't a lot of room to wiggle around since the wires are so short on the seat.
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May 2, 2008 13:57
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Phone posted:Semi-crossposting from M.net: Just pull out the seat, it's super easy. Find the exposed wire and cover it up. On my old '91 I replaced the headrest speaker wire with home theater grade wire that had a really thick sheathing to protect against the rails cutting into it. I also used some cheap 4" Jensen speakers to replace the lovely stockers. Had to do a little "customising" to get them to fit, but they sounded awesome hooked up to an amp.
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May 2, 2008 14:37
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Are the '95s OBD-I or -II? I'm giving serious thought to picking up a Miata when prices start to drop in the fall, and I want the 1.8L engine and ABS, so I know I'm looking at a 94+. However, I know that if I get a Miata, I'm eventually going to throw a turbo in it, so I'd prefer something pre-OBD-II so that I can put in a MSPNP or other standalone ECU without having to worry about emissions checks. I know that '94 was OBD-I and '96 was OBD-II, but I keep seeing contradictory information about the '95s.
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May 2, 2008 19:12
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Dicker posted:the 1.8' cars have Better brakes, engines and differentials. The 1993 has alot of the chassis reinforcements found on 1994+, Interior wise the passenger gets an airbag, and more legroom (ECU goes behind the passenger seat) Huh? Better engines? They're the same engine with a bumped up displacement. The only advantage is that it has more torque as a result. But yeah, the '94 does come with a stronger rear diff and bigger brakes (I wouldn't say they're better). I would pick the '94 over the '93, but it all depends on what condition the cars are. I'd take a clean '93 over a beat '94 any day.
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May 2, 2008 19:40
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notro man posted:Huh? Better engines? They're the same engine with a bumped up displacement. The only advantage is that it has more torque as a result. Yep, pretty much. Some people like the 1.6 better because they say it's more of a free revving motor than the 1.8. I prefer the 1.8 myself, it just feels a lot stronger to me. But I wouldn't pass up a great deal on a 1.6 either.
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May 2, 2008 19:59
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cods posted:Performance/driveability wise, what's the difference between the 1.6 vs. the 1.8? If I can find a lower mileage 93' or a higher mileage 94+ for the same price, is there any reason I should go for the 1.8? Any interior size difference? Most of it's already been said, but the 94+ have the bigger engine with a bit more power, beefier rear end (and Torsen option!), bigger brakes, a little bit more chassis stiffening, and a few other minor changes. If you want to see a complete option list of every model from every year, check out this spreadsheet: http://www.miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf Personally, I prefer the 1.8L to 1.6L, along with the other small revisions that came with the 94 refresh. I've got a 95 M-Edition and absolutely love it. I've driven several 1.6s and several 1.8s, and I just prefer the way the 1.8 drives over the 1.6. That said, if you find a great condition 90-93 I wouldn't turn it down just because it has the 1.6L motor.
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May 2, 2008 20:28
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Luckily the 94's seats have nifty harnesses that click into each other unlike my old base 1996. The speaker wires were BETWEEN the clamp and the rail. I swear to christ, the folks over at M.net are worthless. (Bonus carnage pics soon)  PIX DELIVERD Phone fucked around with this message at 21:48 on May 2, 2008 |
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May 2, 2008 20:29
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The BP and B6 are not the same engine with bumped up displacement, the block is different. most things do not transfer over. 7-8 more whp and a better powerband = better. and yes 1995 cars are OBD-I
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May 3, 2008 05:02
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Out of curiosity, what is the expected lifetime of the Pre-Torsen viscous LSDs that came on the NA miatas? I just picked up a 91 BRG with 46K original miles and I was wondering if the LSD was any good, or should I go ahead with my plans to do a Torsen swap in the future...
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May 3, 2008 18:07
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I think most/all of the VLSDs by 60k are considered open diffs.
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May 3, 2008 18:09
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Dicker posted:The BP and B6 are not the same engine with bumped up displacement, the block is different. most things do not transfer over. The block is different only because it is longer to fit the larger pistons. Other than that, it's the same design. The pistons in the B6 were 78mm wide, which was the maximum size allowed for the block. The BP block was stretched to allow for 83mm pistons. Other than the bore spacing, nothing really changed in the block.
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May 3, 2008 20:32
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I just ordered a set of 15" Enkei RPF-01s for my 92. The hardtop on my car is scratched to hell because the previous owner was a lil old lady who dragged the hardtop down her driveway by herself to put it on. There are some pretty deep gouges on it and I'm wondering if I could make it look halfway decent by painting it myself. And if I decide to go this route, should I said the paint off or just respray it after filling in deep scratches? Also, I am looking at getting the Konis. Why is it better to get just the shocks and then the Ground Control sleeve later? I could get Koni coilovers with adjustability for ~150 more than i would spend on the GC sleeves and shocks. Also, I was very confused by FCM's site. Are their spring perches seriously $450? And do I absolutely need new perches? Money isn't an issue, and I know this topic has been discussed at length, but if Savington or someone could lay out exactly what I should get(don't intend on tracking the car, maybe occasional auto-x with turbo in the future) to suit my needs. Thanks in advance.
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May 3, 2008 22:48
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Phone posted:I think most/all of the VLSDs by 60k are considered open diffs. I've got a '92 with the VLSD, and while I don't autocross the thing, it still works well enough to spin both tires all the time in the snow. It's definitely been nice to have for snow driving. I've got redline in the rearend, but I've only had the car since 63k.
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May 3, 2008 23:19
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The hardtop is made of fiberglass, and I'm fairly sure that the rubber gasket around the rear window is a bit pricey.
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May 4, 2008 00:04
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2D posted:aksuur posted:It's like my midnight blue mica '02 has identical twins that weren't abused from birth! Do you guys like the appearance package? I finally got sick of mine and took it all off (the chin, the sills, and the mudflaps). I never had a spoiler, so I didn't have to make that choice, but the sills left some big fuckoff holes that I currently have plugged with black panel retainers. In my opinion the car looks a lot better without it all. 2D's picture really, really makes me want to get the car repainted this year, but it'll have to wait on the list behind a new transmission (2nd gear synchro is gone in cold weather). I just bought a new top last week too, the UV at this altitude really eats them up. Now that I've already bought the Robbins canvas top, anyone think it was the wrong choice?
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May 5, 2008 07:12
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Ulf posted:I just bought a new top last week too, the UV at this altitude really eats them up. Now that I've already bought the Robbins canvas top, anyone think it was the wrong choice? Its a bitch to install, but so far hasnt given me any problems and looks just like stock.
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May 5, 2008 07:21
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Ulf posted:It's like my midnight blue mica '02 has identical twins that weren't abused from birth! 2nd seems a little bit rough when upshifting from 1st, but it's fine when I'm downshifting. Anyone else have problems with their synchros? I also get a whistling noise in 4th during acceleration. I can't tell if it's wind or something mechanical though.
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May 5, 2008 07:24
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Schwack posted:Its a bitch to install, but so far hasnt given me any problems and looks just like stock. I'm kind of curious how the canvas is going to turn out (with respect to care and cleaning), but it's going to be worth it to be able to drop the top at 32degF without worrying about how many months I just took off its lifetime.
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May 5, 2008 07:25
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aksuur posted:I also get a whistling noise in 4th during acceleration. I can't tell if it's wind or something mechanical though.
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May 5, 2008 07:27
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Today I hung out with a few miata guys at a local autocross, emilio drove my car about 5 runs and Let me scrub in some NT01's for him.   Emilio showing off  my friend sean doing it wrong: 
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May 5, 2008 07:35
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Ulf posted:That's all right, I enjoy doing anything on my car the first time 'round. And I can recruit the wife to help where needed. Make sure you do it when its warm and take your time with the rubber window pieces. I spent a long bit lining those up just right and haven't had a hint of a leak, but apparently a lot of people have problems. You'll also need a pop-rivet gun for the Robbins top and I cant stress enough the need for a warm day. I did it when it was freezing loving cold and I really think things would have gone much more smoothly if I had waited.
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May 5, 2008 07:36
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Which front lip do you have on your's? Garage Vary? I have the OEM on mine, and I think it makes the car look a bit more aggressive.
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May 5, 2008 07:37
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Dicker posted:Today I hung out with a few miata guys at a local autocross, emilio drove my car about 5 runs and Let me scrub in some NT01's for him. You know, I think the Miata may be the only car that I don't care for in white.
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May 5, 2008 08:09
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Dicker posted:emilio drove my car about 5 runs and Let me scrub in some NT01's for him. Yeah, Emilio let me do this at Buttonwillow last year. So when are you buying your set of NT-01s? V  V
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May 5, 2008 08:31
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