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Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible.
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May 1, 2008 21:31
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Understeer posted:Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible.
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May 1, 2008 21:42
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KS posted:Minuses: Suspension probably a bit too unforgiving for a daily driver, clutch is heavy. Sounds like the dealer has been mistreating the car. Bad gas, low oil? I would never buy a used car at a dealership. I've heard horror stories from my friend that used to be the parts manager at the local BMW dealership. The employees would take a car out for the weekend and thrash the gently caress out of it. He used to tell me about taking out brand new M6s for top speed runs and all sorts of fuckery. Understeer posted:Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible.
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May 1, 2008 21:44
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Xenoid posted:If that is going to make a difference to you, you probably shouldn't own a car. Sweet. Thanks for the input on how I should spend my money.
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May 1, 2008 22:19
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Understeer posted:Sweet. Thanks for the input on how I should spend my money. You're the guy asking how to save $3 or less, like it matters. Awaiting your, "I spent $25,000 on this M3 but I don't want to spend $3 on the premium gasoline!" post.
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May 1, 2008 22:20
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two_beer_bishes posted:Can anybody with access to TIS get instructions on rebuilding the steering rack in my '85 325e? One of the other forums has the german TIS info but I'm tired of trying to translate every word. Anybody? I can't even find a  of it in english 
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May 1, 2008 23:50
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two_beer_bishes posted:Anybody? I can't even find a If you msg me on AIM at xenoidx and help me figure out what they're calling it in their program I can show you it.
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May 1, 2008 23:53
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Understeer posted:Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible. My E36 328i says to use a minimum of 89, but I always put in premium (I think its 93 around here). I know its not 'better gas' and I'm usually the first to tell people to use the lowest grade their car tells them to, but it just seems that premium should go in there. I'm really interested in this, too. Am I wasting my money, or is my car really made for the higher-octane Euro stuff?
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May 2, 2008 00:08
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CornHolio posted:My E36 328i says to use a minimum of 89, but I always put in premium (I think its 93 around here). I know its not 'better gas' and I'm usually the first to tell people to use the lowest grade their car tells them to, but it just seems that premium should go in there. Every engineer I've asked about this has responded by saying that anything above the minimum is a waste of money. The octane needed relates directly to the engine's compression ratio, and the correct octane rating is needed to make sure that the gas/air mixture ignites at the right time and burns at the right rate.* I've also read that using gas with too high an octane rating can actually reduce your MPG. *If I'm wrong here, somebody please correct me.
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May 2, 2008 00:39
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TheMadMilkman posted:Every engineer I've asked about this has responded by saying that anything above the minimum is a waste of money. The octane needed relates directly to the engine's compression ratio, and the correct octane rating is needed to make sure that the gas/air mixture ignites at the right time and burns at the right rate.* I've also read that using gas with too high an octane rating can actually reduce your MPG. You're not "wrong", but it depends. Most modern cars with fuel injection, knock sensors, and distributor-less ignition will advance the engine timing until knock is just barely detected and then back off a certain amount. Advancing the timing means that you can get a more complete burn and more power out of the fuel you're burning or, analogously, burn less fuel to achieve a given power output. So, if your car is able to advance timing enough to take advantage of higher octane you may see better mileage. In my 540i, I would consistently get about 1.5 mpg higher using 93 octane than 89 (according to the on-board computer). Since I was generally getting in low 20s with my commute, that was about a 7% increase in mileage for a 3% price premium (gas over $3/gal, $0.10 per gallon difference). My GTO however, gets random mileage regardless of what I put in it, so I fill it with 89 most of the time. Occasionally I'll put in 93 to see whether I can get better mileage out of it, but not consistently enough to make a difference.
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May 2, 2008 02:41
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Understeer posted:Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible. You can put what ever gas you want in your car because of BMW's VANOS system. (Un)luckily the engineers at BMW designed their cars to be driven by asshats, so the VANOS system adjusts everything (read the above post) based upon what octane you use. Not unlike voodoo magic! I wouldn't use 87 all the time, but filling it up every few tanks to save a few bucks won't kill your engine.
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May 2, 2008 03:12
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mungtor posted:You're not "wrong", but it depends. This is good information, thank you. It doesn't surprise me that I was told what I was, since the people I talked to were mechanical engineers, but none of them did any work with car engines.
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May 2, 2008 04:06
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Understeer posted:Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible. Every BMW I've owned has about 7 stickers all over the gas fill cap and fuel gauage "USE PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY" and it also says it in the manual. I have occasionally (rarely but occasionally) filled them with regular 87 or mid-grade 89, or even 10% Ethanol RaceTrac slush and they did not explode. YMMV. I run Shell Premium when I can be bothered to stop at that station, otherwise Exxon or Chevron 93. KS posted:I think it might have had crappy fuel in it because when the hood was lifted there was a definite ticking noise, Welcome to the BMW inline 6 experience. See my post a page back about thick oil vs. thin. It could also be the VANOS unit. It is almost positively not bad fuel. I can't remember the last BMW motor I was around that did not tick in some fashion, no matter how new or well maintained. I think it gives it character. "I'M ALIVE TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK"
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May 2, 2008 04:09
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Any modern computer controlled non-boosted engine should be able to run without risk of damage on any unleaded gasoline one could find in a first-world country. Performance and mileage will take a hit if you're not running the "right" octane, and as pointed out earlier it's still only a few bucks difference for a full tank, so it really doesn't make sense to run anything else unless you have to. If you've chipped it, that's another story. Most chips effectively tighten up the margins in which the engine operates, so it won't be as tolerant of things going wrong.
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May 2, 2008 14:37
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Does anybody have an experience with BMW Scanner 1.36 Software/Cables? I got a second hand unit from ebay but I can't get it to work. The laptop seems to be communicating with the box (I get a different error when the box isn't plugged in), and the box lights up (Power & K-Line) when plugged into the car, but it always says "Cannot find unit' or something along those lines.
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May 2, 2008 17:51
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Can anyone explain to me what exactly the BMW Certified Pre-Owned warranty actually covers, the terms they use seem to be very vague. The language they use (focusing on the word "safety") makes it seem very far from a bumper to bumper warranty or a powertrain warranty.
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May 2, 2008 20:25
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zapplez posted:Can anyone explain to me what exactly the BMW Certified Pre-Owned warranty actually covers, the terms they use seem to be very vague. The language they use (focusing on the word "safety") makes it seem very far from a bumper to bumper warranty or a powertrain warranty. It's not bumper-to-bumper but seems to cover a good amount. Pretty much anything that's critical and not a wear item or an entertainment item. Apparently there's also a $50 surcharge for every warranty repair visit. covered by CPO warranty against defects in materials and workmanship: Engine Automatic/Manual Transmission Front Suspension Rear Suspension Steering Brakes ABS Brake System Electrical Air Conditioning/Heating System Cooling System Interior/Exterior Fuel System Final Drive Assembly, Propeller Shaft not covered by CPO warranty: Upkeep Items Maintenance; engine, transmission, and body adjustments; wheel alignment, balancing or rotation; wiper blade inserts; engine drive belts; spark plugs; filters; fuses; all batteries; all hoses and clamps (except air conditioning and power steering); oils, lubricants, fluids, refrigerants and coolants (except as required in the course of a covered repair); brake pads and rotors; brake shoes and drums; manual transmission clutch assemblies; suspension dampers (shock absorbers/strut elements); exhaust systems; tires. Wear and Tear All wear and tear items as defined in The Certified Pre-Owned BMW Protection Plan Consumer Information Statement (including all suspension parts and components). Body and Interior Paint; glass; headlamps; bulbs (except instrumentation); mirrors; lenses; body and chassis; body seals and gaskets; interior and exterior trim, moldings, and fasteners; upholstery, headliner, carpeting, floor and trunk mats; convertible top (all components except electronics); air or water leaks; wind or body noises; wheels; damage due to rust, corrosion, or contamination, except as covered by the BMW New Vehicle Rust and Corrosion Perforation Warranty. Accessories Radio/cassette player, telephone, navigation system, CD changer, or any components of those systems; non-original equipment parts, components or accessories. source: http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/CPO/Warranty/Default.aspx Taymar fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 2, 2008 |
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May 2, 2008 21:53
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Taymar posted:It's not bumper-to-bumper but seems to cover a good amount. Pretty much anything that's critical and not a wear item or an entertainment item. Apparently there's also a $50 surcharge for every warranty repair visit. So basically it covers everything that never breaks, while specifically exempting all the things that wear out. Absolutely worthless, but a good reason to buy a car from a private seller, preferably a BMW CCA member with extensive documentation on the car since new. I'd take that over a dealership "CPO" car any day.
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May 3, 2008 05:18
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CPO is better than no warranty at all, which is exactly what you'll get from a private seller. You'll also get better financing rates with a CPO car, versus some shitheap off the carmax lot or craigslist.
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May 3, 2008 05:39
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Mad Dragon posted:CPO is better than no warranty at all, which is exactly what you'll get from a private seller. You'll also get better financing rates with a CPO car, versus some shitheap off the carmax lot or craigslist. I'd take a car out of the Roundel classifieds over any of those. I'd rather roll the eBay Motors dice than deal with a dealership, honestly. But that's me. On a more positive note, I suddenly seem to have several boxes labeled "Koni" and "H&R" in my garage... I hear a man in a brown truck is bringing another one labeled "UUC".
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May 3, 2008 13:20
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Is the X-Brace for the E36 really a worthwhile mod? It's pretty much the last bit of suspension that I have any desire to put on (well, that and the 95 LCA bushings for added caster). If nothing else I figure it's cheap insurance to guard against things hitting my oil pan.
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May 3, 2008 16:41
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Is the X-Brace for the E36 really a worthwhile mod? It's pretty much the last bit of suspension that I have any desire to put on (well, that and the 95 LCA bushings for added caster). If nothing else I figure it's cheap insurance to guard against things hitting my oil pan. That is the absolute biggest reason I installed mine. Chassis stiffening is just a beneficial side-effect, in my mind.
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May 3, 2008 17:24
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This seems like as good a place as any to post this question. I have a 2006 330i. I love my car. When I bought it new, I had the optional 6 disc cd changer put in. I didn't realize at the time that this would require taking out the iPod connectivity feature. Now, I want to put use the iPod connectivity and get rid of the cd changer. Would anybody know what the procedure would be for this, and maybe how much it would cost?
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May 3, 2008 21:05
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it should only requiring disconnecting the changer input from the rear of the headunit and attaching the iPod connectivity cable. I've read about the process before, but not ever done it.
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May 3, 2008 21:18
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multiprotocol posted:I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it should only requiring disconnecting the changer input from the rear of the headunit and attaching the iPod connectivity cable. I've read about the process before, but not ever done it. I should mention that they had to 'reprogram' the stereo when they put in the cd changer...assumedly this involves changing the functionality altogether. I can just use a cable to plug my iPod into the aux jack in the center armrest, but with the functionality that was removed when the cd changer was put in, you could control the iPod itself with the stereo controls on the steering wheel and the stereo unit, rather than having to fiddle with the iPod while driving.
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May 3, 2008 21:37
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miklm posted:I'd take a car out of the Roundel classifieds over any of those. Anything out of the Roundel classifieds will be expensive and no more reliable than a CPO from a dealer. The "never driven in rain, only Zymol, detailed with a q-tip" crowd seems to think that their cars don't depreciate. Most of them are also insufferable douches who think that a BMW is a lifestyle rather than just a car. Doctor Grape Ape posted:Is the X-Brace for the E36 really a worthwhile mod? Yes. 100% worthwhile and one of the best mods you can make for the money, IMO. If you are at all sensitive to chassis flex and turn-in behavior, you'll notice it immediately.
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May 4, 2008 01:55
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mungtor posted:a BMW is a lifestyle rather than just a car. http://www.bmw-online.com/ mungtor posted:Yes. 100% worthwhile and one of the best mods you can make for the money, IMO. If you are at all sensitive to chassis flex and turn-in behavior, you'll notice it immediately. Good to know. I'll put it on the list for after I do the oil pan gasket (oh god).
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May 4, 2008 02:50
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Anyone have any experiences with an E23? I like that body style, and I've always loved a 7 series. That was the last of the "not filled with electronic poo poo" big sedans that I can tell. Besides the obvious rust problem from any cars that have seen snow, would I be insane in a few years (~5 or less) trying for an E23 vs. a Town Car? But, what am I saying, who the hell knows how gas prices will be in 5 years. We might all be driving scooters by then.
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May 4, 2008 04:33
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mungtor posted:Anything out of the Roundel classifieds will be expensive and no more reliable than a CPO from a dealer. The "never driven in rain, only Zymol, detailed with a q-tip" crowd seems to think that their cars don't depreciate. Most of them are also insufferable douches who think that a BMW is a lifestyle rather than just a car. I disagree with your position that a fully documented and correctly maintained car will be "no more reliable" than a realtor-wife leased car that barely got the minimum maintenance but was lease termed to a dealership's CPO lot and barely glanced at by a couple of service techs and the wash boy. The dealership techs can barely get it right when they're being paid specifically to fix a reported problem, much less find unreported random problems to preventatively fix before it goes to the CPO lot? Right. The dealership would rather roll the dice and gamble that nothing major will break before that warranty runs out, or they'll find some other way to weasel out of responsibility on it. If he isn't still banned, Mapless I'm sure can chime in with paragraphs of glee about his CPO buying experience. I'm SURE he'd recommend it, after nearly assaulting a Tom Williams BMW employee over a control arm.
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May 4, 2008 04:58
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:http://www.bmw-online.com/ On that note does anyone know the best place to get BMW merch in Canada? Everytime I go to the dealership their department is closed by 1pm. I just want to get my thermos and golf umbrella!
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May 4, 2008 15:27
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miklm posted:I disagree with your position that a fully documented and correctly maintained car will be "no more reliable" than a realtor-wife leased car that barely got the minimum maintenance but was lease termed to a dealership's CPO lot and barely glanced at by a couple of service techs and the wash boy. It really all depends on the dealer. If you're going to a dealer with a bad CSI in sales and service, chances are their CPO checks are gonna be sub-par. On the other hand, you come into my dealer, the CPOs there are done right and you will be treated like a king. I had to replace a dash (like the entire dashboard) in an E61 5-series because we got a CPO car from another dealer, and they failed to notice the giant hole in the dash. We also goodwill a ton of poo poo when the vehicle is out of warranty. We especially do this if you're a regular, multi-car buyer. We're also more expensive (in sales and service) than other dealers nearby, so theres a cost associated to this level of service. So really, it all depends on the dealer. EDIT: Also, there are other Techs here that also take pride in their work and do the job right. Its really not fair to us to lump us in that category of poo poo techs. Lufiron fucked around with this message at 15:47 on May 4, 2008 |
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May 4, 2008 15:40
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miklm posted:I disagree with your position that a fully documented and correctly maintained car will be "no more reliable" than a realtor-wife leased car that barely got the minimum maintenance but was lease termed to a dealership's CPO lot and barely glanced at by a couple of service techs and the wash boy. For the duration of the lease, maintenance pretty much incudes oil changes, brakes, and tires. Unless it gets run out of oil, there really isn't much to go wrong with a CPO car. The ones in Roundel are either garage queens or beaten at autocrosses and track days. The price premium for the garage queens isn't worth it, IMO, and I'd stay away from the others entirely. That's not to say that people don't take their leased BMWs to autox days, but when things fail there's a chance of getting it covered. The only cars I'd consider out of Roundel are if I was looking for something specific... E34 M5, E28 M5, E30 M3, pre-74 2002... For those, enthusiast ownership may make a difference. It doesn't when you're looking for a 3-5 year old non-M car. quote:If he isn't still banned, Mapless I'm sure can chime in with paragraphs of glee about his CPO buying experience. I'm SURE he'd recommend it, after nearly assaulting a Tom Williams BMW employee over a control arm. Some dealerships are just poo poo, just like owners can be lying scumbags. I bought a CPO M3 before... it needed a new O2 sensor and rear upper shock mount thunked. Both replaced under CPO warranty, no questions asked. Drove it for 70k miles without a single issue, except when the water pump finally went at 107k.
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May 4, 2008 15:46
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i'm not an insufferable douche but this bmw has been a lifestyle for me lately. progress is going so slow.. i have a whole new respect for people who can make manifolds and have them look great.
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May 4, 2008 17:07
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I have a CPO BMW but I'm going to argue devil's advocate for a moment - BMW doesn't pay for oil changes except for 15k miles. If I were to buy a CPO car with 50k on it you'd better believe I'd be very, very wary of the condition of the engine if it lived its life in city traffic. Mine had 14k on it when I bought it and the oil had been changed twice due to the low miles in 2 years of ownership.
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May 4, 2008 17:15
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Ok, I want to throw out a question. Right now I've got a 2004 Civic (daily) and a 1986 325es that is just sitting. The E30 needs a few things to make it back to daily driver status, but I'm not sure how hard it will be to fix the problems. FYI I used to daily it until the shift linkage went out. I just want to know if it is even worth it to fix it? I just want to use it as a beater until I can save up enough money to buy a nice E34/E30 325i. The Civic is really boring and I'm more than ready to get back into a BMW. - The shift linkage is all screwed up, and finding the gears is VERY vague. - The reverse lights don't work, I was told something about a sensor that was out. - Clutch master cylinder has failed, and I have to put in fluid every few days to keep it up. Otherwise, this car is a tank, has 280k miles on it and I've driven it across the state of Virginia a few times. It's painfully slow and not great to look at but I would like to get it up and running.
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May 5, 2008 04:53
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miklm posted:I can't remember the last BMW motor I was around that did not tick in some fashion, no matter how new or well maintained. I think it gives it character. "I'M ALIVE TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK" My e34 has almost 130k miles and doesn't make a sound.  M50 non-VANOS.
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May 5, 2008 05:36
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Billy4774 posted:- The shift linkage is all screwed up, and finding the gears is VERY vague. To replace all the wearable parts in the shift linkage it will be ~$70. Pelican has a kit with every bushing and wearable part on their site I believe. The reverse switch is a $7 part that is stupid easy to replace. It's just screwed into the side of the transmission. The CMC is ~$60 but I couldn't tell you how easy/hard it is to replace. But like most things BMW I'm sure there's a tutorial out there. So all in all you're looking at around $150 in parts and a weekend worth of work.
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May 5, 2008 06:17
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Lufiron posted:It really all depends on the dealer. If you're going to a dealer with a bad CSI in sales and service, chances are their CPO checks are gonna be sub-par. What's a CSI, and how can you find this out for a particular dealer? I hear now and again about these awesome dealers that go out of their way to accomodate the customer, but I've had mediocre at best experiences. I'd happily drive the extra distance to a decent dealership.
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May 5, 2008 14:03
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Taymar posted:What's a CSI, and how can you find this out for a particular dealer? Guessing Customer Satisfaction Index?
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May 5, 2008 16:23
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I bought a ’02 330xi at the end of March with 70K on it. So far I absolutely love the car but yesterday it scared the ever living poo poo out of me. After taking a turn (calmly) the ABS, Brake, and DSC indicators light up amber. They stayed on for my short drive to Wendy’s and back and then turned off about 30 seconds into the next time I took the car out. The manual says this indicates a failure of most if not all the electronic breaking systems and suggests taking it to a dealership. Where they were only for a mile or two of driving, should I be concerned?
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May 5, 2008 16:41
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