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How much work is it to replace the brake pads on an 2001 e46? The brake pad indicator lights on my dashboard lit up the other day and I'd prefer to do the work in-house rather than taking it to a service center (they quoted me $550 for complete brake replacement including rotors and sensor)
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May 5, 2008 17:14
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Any suggestions on what else to replace on my E36 while I'm doing pads, maybe rotors, swaybar endlinks and other swaybar parts?
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May 5, 2008 17:23
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:To replace all the wearable parts in the shift linkage it will be ~$70. Pelican has a kit with every bushing and wearable part on their site I believe. Thanks! I've got a bentley sitting on my shelf from when I first got it. Time to get to work.
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May 5, 2008 17:58
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miklm posted:So basically it covers everything that never breaks, while specifically exempting all the things that wear out. Absolutely worthless, but a good reason to buy a car from a private seller, preferably a BMW CCA member with extensive documentation on the car since new. I'd take that over a dealership "CPO" car any day. Hey now! My CPO covered my ticking hydraulic lifters (no more TICK TICK TICK!), my A/C compressor that was on the way out, a shorted LED tail light cluster, my oil separator valve, and my secondary EGR system. The lifters, EGR, and oil separator are all known trouble spots on the M54 engine. All the repairs totaled ~$5,000 so far.
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May 5, 2008 19:02
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Shadowhand00 posted:How much work is it to replace the brake pads on an 2001 e46? The brake pad indicator lights on my dashboard lit up the other day and I'd prefer to do the work in-house rather than taking it to a service center (they quoted me $550 for complete brake replacement including rotors and sensor) http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_front_brake_pads.shtml Look doable to you?
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May 5, 2008 21:27
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Weggie11 posted:I bought a ’02 330xi at the end of March with 70K on it. So far I absolutely love the car but yesterday it scared the ever living poo poo out of me. After taking a turn (calmly) the ABS, Brake, and DSC indicators light up amber. They stayed on for my short drive to Wendy’s and back and then turned off about 30 seconds into the next time I took the car out. I had a loose battery connection that caused all three of these lights to illuminate in my 330xi. I guess the weak connection cause some confusion with the wheel speed sensor so it threw the error. It might be worth looking at, however, it doesn't seem like this is the cause in your case.
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May 5, 2008 23:23
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m42technic posted:http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_front_brake_pads.shtml Thanks, This looks pretty doable.
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May 5, 2008 23:49
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Shadowhand00 posted:How much work is it to replace the brake pads on an 2001 e46? The brake pad indicator lights on my dashboard lit up the other day and I'd prefer to do the work in-house rather than taking it to a service center (they quoted me $550 for complete brake replacement including rotors and sensor)
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May 6, 2008 01:16
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Mad Dragon posted:You definitely need to replace the sensor(s), and I highly recommend replacing the rotors. BMW rotors shouldn't be machined. Any suggestions on rotor/pad combinations for cash savings? I was thinking of putting EBC Greenstuff on my car when the pads run out, although they might be too short life and/or eat rotors too much. I'd like something that's fairly good performance, can run through two sets of pads for each rotor, and has a good lifespan. I have a feeling this is an impossible combination to get though 
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May 6, 2008 01:28
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maxallen posted:Any suggestions on rotor/pad combinations for cash savings? I was thinking of putting EBC Greenstuff on my car when the pads run out, although they might be too short life and/or eat rotors too much. I'd like something that's fairly good performance, can run through two sets of pads for each rotor, and has a good lifespan. I have a feeling this is an impossible combination to get though The OE pads will do that just fine.
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May 6, 2008 01:34
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maxallen posted:Any suggestions on rotor/pad combinations for cash savings? I was thinking of putting EBC Greenstuff on my car when the pads run out, although they might be too short life and/or eat rotors too much. I'd like something that's fairly good performance, can run through two sets of pads for each rotor, and has a good lifespan. I have a feeling this is an impossible combination to get though Hop on over to bimmerforums. They have group buys for full brake replacements with OEM Brembo/Zimmerman blank rotors and Axxis pads along with sensors for around $300. To help you out, here are some prices (shipped per pair) for pads that I am considering for my M3: $67 - Hawk Performance Ceramic Front $56 - Hawk Performance Ceramic Rear $39 - PBR Axxis Metal Master Front $38 - PBR Axxis Metal Master Rear $35 - PBR Axxis Deluxe Plus Front $34 - PBR Axxis Deluxe Plus Rear Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 02:04 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 6, 2008 01:56
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Mad Dragon posted:You definitely need to replace the sensor(s), and I highly recommend replacing the rotors. BMW rotors shouldn't be machined. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=E46330BRAKEPAK I've been looking at this kit. Is this worth it? I kind of figured that while I have the car up, the rotors could be replaced as well. What's the reasoning behind BMW rotors not being machined? Edit: Forgot to ask the most important question - cost. Shadowhand00 fucked around with this message at 06:06 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 6, 2008 05:59
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Shadowhand00 posted:What's the reasoning behind BMW rotors not being machined? I think its because the make them pretty thin from the factory to make them as light as possible. This is obviously to decrease unsprung weight.
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May 6, 2008 13:28
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Lufiron posted:I think its because the make them pretty thin from the factory to make them as light as possible. This is obviously to decrease unsprung weight. I think this is the case too. The stock E36 rear rotors come new at 10mm thick, but the minimum thickness is 8.4mm. You wouldn't be able to machine them and keep them within tolerance.
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May 6, 2008 13:35
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:I think this is the case too. The stock E36 rear rotors come new at 10mm thick, but the minimum thickness is 8.4mm. You wouldn't be able to machine them and keep them within tolerance. Right. The pads and rotors are designed to wear together and if the rotors are too thin, you risk warping them as well as having to deal with increased pedal travel.
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May 6, 2008 14:12
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My mom is seriously considering a 128 or 135 cabriolet. They are ostensibly good cars, and it's pretty much ideal for what she is after. My question is this: does anyone know of any terrible flaws with them, or have any feedback regarding the 1 series?
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May 6, 2008 15:04
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here comes cask posted:My mom is seriously considering a 128 or 135 cabriolet. They are ostensibly good cars, and it's pretty much ideal for what she is after. My question is this: does anyone know of any terrible flaws with them, or have any feedback regarding the 1 series? http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2008-bmw-128i-convertible-review/ and http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2008-bmw-128i-convertible-review-take-two/
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May 6, 2008 16:40
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here comes cask posted:My mom is seriously considering a 128 or 135 cabriolet. They are ostensibly good cars, and it's pretty much ideal for what she is after. My question is this: does anyone know of any terrible flaws with them, or have any feedback regarding the 1 series? Not the cabriolet, but Jeremy Clarkson loves the 135i: http://driving.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/driving/jeremy_clarkson/article3103294.ece Clarkson posted:The fact of the matter is this. The 135 coupé is the best car BMW makes. I have no hesitation at all, then, in giving this long-awaited return to form the rare accolade of five stars.
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May 6, 2008 16:46
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Ladies and gentlemen, I present the M1 http://eurocarblog.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/05/05/bmwm1.jpg Cush Bowl fucked around with this message at 17:07 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 6, 2008 16:56
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discstickers posted:http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2008-bmw-128i-convertible-review/ To be honest, both of those were automatics, and the must slower 128i. And verts, and it seemed that was the main problem they were having. OY, THE TOP IS DOWN AND IM SWEATY AND STICKY, I HATE THIS CAR! Also, Judging by this quote quote:If the 128i came with a third pedal and a proper stick, would I buy one? Absolutely not. Our tester stickered at $44,375. For just $3k more I could grab a Shelby GT500 Convertible. It's not only an infinitely superior tanning machine, but the thuggee Ford doesn't look like a pregnant, pygmy hippo. Case– and roof– closed. I can't really take it seriously. I mean, first of all, they maxxed it out. Second of all, they say they'd rather have a Mustang GT500. Thats like saying I'd rather have a Mustang GT than an E46 328i. Sure they're similar cars, but at the same time, vastly different.
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May 6, 2008 16:58
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CornHolio posted:To be honest, both of those were automatics, and the must slower 128i. And verts, and it seemed that was the main problem they were having. OY, THE TOP IS DOWN AND IM SWEATY AND STICKY, I HATE THIS CAR! I have never ever been impressed by The Truth About Cars.
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May 6, 2008 17:02
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TractionControl posted:I have never ever been impressed by The Truth About Cars. That article reads like dane cook stand-up. I've never heard of the Truth About Cars, but it seems to suck pretty bad. That picture of the M1 looks a lot better than the orange one I saw on autoblog.
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May 6, 2008 17:22
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Cush Bowl posted:Ladies and gentlemen, I present the M1 Why would a mid-engined supercar have a huge front hood bulge that looks conveniently almost identical to an E92 M3's? It's definitely a photochop of some sort.
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May 6, 2008 17:25
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TractionControl posted:Why would a mid-engined supercar have a huge front hood bulge that looks conveniently almost identical to an E92 M3's? Well the E46 M3 had a pointless power bulge too, so why not? Although the b pillar back above the beltline looks like a veyron so who knows? It looks pretty sexy anyway.
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May 6, 2008 17:35
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stump posted:Well the E46 M3 had a pointless power bulge too, so why not? The E46 M3 has its engine in the front though. The M1 traditionally would not though, because it has its engine in the back.
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May 6, 2008 17:37
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TractionControl posted:The E46 M3 has its engine in the front though. The M1 traditionally would not though, because it has its engine in the back.
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May 6, 2008 17:41
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TractionControl posted:Why would a mid-engined supercar have a huge front hood bulge that looks conveniently almost identical to an E92 M3's? gently caress, I wanted to believe it was real so bad. Its still an awesome looking car even though it doesn't exist.
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May 6, 2008 18:11
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Shadowhand00 posted:http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=E46330BRAKEPAK Not a bad way to go. The guys at Turner have always been a pleasure to deal with in my experience. Just don't get the Axxis Ultimate pads if this is primarily a street driven car. They dust like motherfuckers.
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May 6, 2008 18:14
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m42technic posted:Not a bad way to go. The guys at Turner have always been a pleasure to deal with in my experience. Just don't get the Axxis Ultimate pads if this is primarily a street driven car. They dust like motherfuckers. Haha, saved me $20. Since this is my dad's car, it will never see track use. Are there additional materials required? Or is it just the standard brake cleaner, anti-seize compound, etc. that I'll need?
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May 6, 2008 18:18
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TractionControl posted:The E46 M3 has its engine in the front though. The M1 traditionally would not though, because it has its engine in the back. The build on that car certainly doesn't look like an MR car though. The seats are too far back, the cabin leans toward the rear, and the hood is extremely long. The front end looks like a slightly squashed version of the E9X M3 to me.
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May 6, 2008 18:49
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maxallen posted:The build on that car certainly doesn't look like an MR car though. The seats are too far back, the cabin leans toward the rear, and the hood is extremely long. The front end looks like a slightly squashed version of the E9X M3 to me. I agree. It looks like they chopped a bunch of other cars together and slapped it onto a stretched out E9x M3.
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May 6, 2008 19:44
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Jonontherun posted:I've never heard of the Truth About Cars, but it seems to suck pretty bad. They're the idiots that got royally flamed a few years ago for a mindbogglingly stupid editorial titled "Death to the Stick Shift" that argued slushboxes were "safer, more reliable and more pleasurable than their manual equivalents."
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May 6, 2008 19:46
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SlapActionJackson posted:They're the idiots that got royally flamed a few years ago for a mindbogglingly stupid editorial titled "Death to the Stick Shift" that argued slushboxes were "safer, more reliable and more pleasurable than their manual equivalents." So it's just an ironic name then? Like a huge motherfucker named Tiny.
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May 6, 2008 20:38
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Shadowhand00 posted:Haha, saved me $20. Since this is my dad's car, it will never see track use. Send a private message to bimmerzone on bimmerforums.com. A kit with everything you need will run you ~$300 shipped with better pads. Ask him to quote you Zimmerman blank rotors for front and rear for your car along with Axxis PBR pads or Hawk Perfomance Ceramic pads and the wear sensors. The ceramics I listed dust less than the ultimates.
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May 6, 2008 21:08
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Jonontherun posted:So it's just an ironic name then? Like a huge motherfucker named Tiny. It can't be truly ironic, because they aren't in on the joke.
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May 6, 2008 21:17
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Shadowhand00 posted:Are there additional materials required? Or is it just the standard brake cleaner, anti-seize compound, etc. that I'll need? Just pick up a can of brake clean, some anti-seize, a small wire brush to clean the more stubborn brake dust, and you'll be set. I'm not such a fan of globbing anti-squeal goo on the back of pads, personally. As long as you get everything adequately cleaned and lubricated, you shouldn't have a problem with noise.
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May 6, 2008 22:06
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Alright guys, 92 325i again. I went to pull the engine codes this weekend to check and I don't think I'm doing something right. I did the gas pedal trick and the light stays on for 5 seconds, goes off, stays on for 3 seconds, goes off for a few seconds, flashes on, goes off for about 3 seconds, stays on for 3 seconds, goes off for 3 seconds, flashes on, goes off for about 3 seconds, stays on for 3 seconds, repeat, repeat, repeat... As far as I know, that corresponds to a code of 1000. I should be getting a 1444 if everything is okay though, right?
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May 7, 2008 13:06
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1000 is just the end of the stream of codes, which in your case you have none. You only get 1444 if you had a fault but it is now gone. When you get a 1444 you can erase it, and then you'll get a 1000. Edit: Actually, I think that might be backwards. After the code finishes press the gas pedal down for over 10 seconds, then rerun the test. You should see 1444 then.
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May 7, 2008 13:18
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I have a 1994 540i that I finally got a new (to me) auto transmission put in as the last one lost first gear. And that works beautifully, but another problem's still remaining. When it's hot out (this is when it's the worst) it won't really accelerate. When I push down on the gas pedal, the engine sputters and it jerkily accelerates sometimes. Most of the time, if it's starting to do this, when you accelerate the RPM drops to 1000, and when you let off the gas it accelerates for a moment. It sucks because this can happen with no warning, so I have to nurse the car off the road by constantly letting off the gas. I bought 2 new oxygen sensors awhile ago because I was guessing they were going bad and it was messing up with the fuel mixture, but they are pretty much impossible for me to replace myself, and when my mechanic was replacing the transmission I was going to have him put them in but he said he'd have to heat them to get it in and would probably damage the catalytic converter they were right next to in doing it. I'm planning on getting those put in here quickly to hopefully fix the problem, but wanted to know if anyone had any hunches on if that could be the cause of the problem, or if there are any other things I should be looking at as well. And if you know of any good, reasonable BMW shops in Indy to take it to. edit - only engine code I could see was 1221 - O2 sensor #1 Harsh Tokerman fucked around with this message at 21:03 on May 7, 2008 |
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May 7, 2008 16:46
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discstickers posted:http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2008-bmw-128i-convertible-review/ Shadowhand00 posted:
Thanks for the links!
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May 7, 2008 17:16
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