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If I were you I'd go with the Carbotech pads (see 949racing.com). They dust less, and even the competiton-level pads don't squeak much (if at all, depending on which you get) on the street. AXP-6/XP-8's would probably take care of you.
destructo fucked around with this message at 14:09 on May 21, 2008 |
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May 21, 2008 06:57
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:51 |
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pad fade = "oh jesus i am pressing harder and harder and the car is not stopping" fluid fade = "oh jesus the pedal just sunk to the floor and the car is not stopping" Sounds like you have the latter. The former is usually reserved for SERIOUS track abuse.
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May 21, 2008 07:09
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Ziploc, First thing I would do is bleed your brakes with a somewhat decent fluid (ATE super blue is a good value), and then if the problems persist, replace your pads with hawk HPS, you dont need too much pad if you're using ziex 512's
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May 21, 2008 09:14
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My radiator just loving blew. Two miles onto the freeway there was a loudish "pop" and then coolant all over my windshield. gently caress. We're getting it replaced, but I was wondering if there were any larger/more efficient ones out there that I could fit now, in anticipation of turbocharging it later on down the road.
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May 22, 2008 02:12
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mobn posted:My radiator just loving blew. Two miles onto the freeway there was a loudish "pop" and then coolant all over my windshield. gently caress. I just replaced mine about a month ago with one of the oem replacement Koyo radiators on ebay, was $140 shipped I believe> its a bit smaller than the one i had but I think i had a dual core automatic radiator in it prior to it leaking. It is definently larger than the stock manual one. Alternatively you could get the godspeed aluminum radiator, there's a special on miataturbo.net for $160 shipped but they seems to sell out each shipment pretty quick so I don't know if they'd have any to ship immediately.
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May 22, 2008 02:22
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the godspeed one is supposed to be ok, but i havent seen it first hand. https://www.radiatorbarn.com has a good deal on an all metal one for like 130$ shipped. I personally have a 1" koyo OEM replacement i got through a friend for dirt cheap, and for a stock engine car it works great in 100* track use.
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May 22, 2008 02:40
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Dicker posted:Ziploc, I think I will likely do this at some point this summer. The car works flawlessly day to day and even holds up well at autocross. So I'm not in a super hurry to find that last 5% of braking power.
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May 22, 2008 02:52
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mobn posted:My radiator just loving blew. Two miles onto the freeway there was a loudish "pop" and then coolant all over my windshield. gently caress. Get something with metal endtanks. A cheap Koyo 37, if you can find it. I wish they still made the CSF 2". 
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May 22, 2008 05:19
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I'll need to replace my tires soon and could use recommendations. It's for a 14" wheel. I'd like to get a real nice set for the summer, what does AI recommend?
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May 25, 2008 08:25
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Gear Head posted:I'll need to replace my tires soon and could use recommendations. It's for a 14" wheel. I'd like to get a real nice set for the summer, what does AI recommend? How many miles a year? 10k, go with a Falken Azenis in 195/60-14. 15k a year, more commuter than hardcore canyon carver, but still enjoy the occasional spirited jaunt, Toyo T1R in 195/55-14. Track car, Hankook R-S2 in 195/60-14.
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May 25, 2008 10:00
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I had the Azenis and I now have the RS2s, both are good tires it seems. I haven't autocrossed the RS2s yet, but that should be coming up next week, and hopefully next year I'll be able to give some track experience. However, do not expect the Azenis to last long. I burnt through mine in about 8 months with about 9k on them.
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May 25, 2008 11:47
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So to everyone that has done suspension bushings: just how difficult is it to do? I have access to a hydraulic press and have replaced upper and lower control arms on my past miata when I wrecked it. It was a complete pain in the rear end and I had to use a sawzall to remove the long rear end bolt on the lower(?) front control arm because everything was so bent. Is it worth the pain and heartache to do? I am guessing so. Also, I plan on doing coilovers soon so should I do all this at the time I do the coilovers?
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May 25, 2008 22:02
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Chauncey posted:So to everyone that has done suspension bushings: just how difficult is it to do? I have access to a hydraulic press and have replaced upper and lower control arms on my past miata when I wrecked it. It was a complete pain in the rear end and I had to use a sawzall to remove the long rear end bolt on the lower(?) front control arm because everything was so bent. Is it worth the pain and heartache to do? I am guessing so. I just did some poly ones a couple months ago. Took me about a day total to do using the $30 harbor frieght balljoint press doing pretty much everything by myself. Only had help with the first corner. Personally I'd do the coilovers at the same time so that you don't have to go get and alignment twice.
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May 25, 2008 22:46
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Well, my front left blinker is out. Before I unscrew the wrong part and my car explodes, the bulb is accessed from the front, right?
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May 26, 2008 08:18
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two screws in the housing and then the bulb comes out of the housing.
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May 26, 2008 08:20
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I'm going to have my alignment done this weekend. The previous owner had this thing setup in a very odd way (at least odd to me). We are estimating that it has -1.8 degrees of camber in the front and about -1.2 in the back, basically the opposite of every alignment I've read about for the Miata. I'm going to give Lannys alignment a shot and was wondering what you guys do when you have it aligned, specifically do you have the shop put in a ballast to simulate your weight in the drivers seat? How important is this?
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May 26, 2008 09:17
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I run mine at -2.1 and -1.4, yours doesnt sound too far off, especially for a street miata.
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May 26, 2008 09:30
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From what I've read, the alignment settings is extremely dependent on the suspension. Like if the car is lowered more than 2", to use the more negative camber in the front.
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May 26, 2008 18:11
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Can anyone tell me what Mazda changed with the 1.6 for the european market? Ours have 116PS in the early NAs, 90PS in the post '94 NA, and 110PS in the NB. I've been googling around, but can't find anything edit: also, could someone tell me how to tell which ones have Torsen diffs? our option packages are a bit different. edit again: wikipedia notes that the Euro NB model had a B6ZE engine, but also notes that it had 120PS and was available from 1989-1993. the plot thickens. Frank Dillinger fucked around with this message at 19:17 on May 26, 2008 |
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May 26, 2008 18:43
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and 1994+ 1.6l miata is a slow slow car, spring for the 1.8
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May 26, 2008 19:29
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ProTip: Don't by the ball joints off ebay that are ~$20 apiece. One of mine just seperated while pulling out of my parking space to go to lunch.
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May 29, 2008 02:06
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Note to self: Spend 120 dollars on balljoints instead of shift knob... got it.
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May 29, 2008 02:15
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If you plan on changing them its a good idea. Thankfully the Mazda dealer had loving one left in stock for 75 bucks. Gonna be ordering another online this weekend to replace my other one before that falls apart. I spent the last ~2 hours getting the ball joints and then replacing in the parking lot at work instead of doing my job  . My boss is cool like that.
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May 29, 2008 02:19
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So, this has been up for about a month at that price; they also have it listed over at Auto Trader for about $400 more. Does that seems like a decent price for an M Edition? From the pictures, it looks to be in decent shape, but I'll be going over there Monday to check it out. HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Jun 1, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 09:58
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The '94 M isn't in as high demand as the '95, and that's a lot of miles even for a Miata - but if the history checks out and the car is in good condition that's probably a fair price.
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Jun 1, 2008 16:23
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Yeah, looks like a fair price -- good candidate to boost too  .
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Jun 1, 2008 16:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:The '94 M isn't in as high demand as the '95, and that's a lot of miles even for a Miata - but if the history checks out and the car is in good condition that's probably a fair price. Ugh. That car would easily sell for $4000-$5000 in Austin. My 91 in rougher shape was a steal at $2650. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jun 1, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 18:45
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Frost -273 posted:I am going to pick-up my first miata tonight - a red 1998 stock NB. Sure it's a '98?
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Jun 1, 2008 22:52
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My friend just bought: http://www.fastclassics.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1878&start=0 is it good? I know very little about MX5s but I'm sure you guys can tell me what the mods will have made it like. With the nice red wheels instead of green. He used to have a 300bhp 200sx so I'm guessing this will be noticably slower in a straight line? quote:So you all know the car - immaculately serviced, 1.6, 116bhp, GPS verified BTG of 8:46 (and capable of much faster without a passenger and fitting a hard top), roll cage, KYB Hillclimb gear suspension, Pro Race bucket seat, air con fully deleted, awesome sound, strut bracing, new mohair roof, momo race steering wheel on 100mm hub spacer, and the rare Tuckin '99 arches, arches rolled to accept very wide low offset wheels, 48k mile engine, 19k mile gearbox, LSD, ARC Magic intake hardpipe, HKS air intake, new EBC Yellow stuff's, and Castrol SRF Brake fluid, Thatcham Cat 1 alarm and immobiliser;  I guess it looks kinda cool. Bape Culture fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Jun 1, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 23:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:The '94 M isn't in as high demand as the '95, and that's a lot of miles even for a Miata - but if the history checks out and the car is in good condition that's probably a fair price. The milage is a bit high, but I can use that as leverage. It's not nearly as easy to bullshit a dealer, but I think I'll be able to get him down to $2750. Even if there's a few things I have to replace, I don't mind. I love to tinker. If I get the VIN, I should be able to call Mazda and verify all the features on it, right? All the Ms had LSD by default, correct?
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Jun 2, 2008 02:37
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Yes, it has the limited slip.
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Jun 2, 2008 03:51
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I just got home with my new Miata - 99 10AE with 46000 on the clock. Mostly mint, a few very minor cosmetic defects (a nick here or there), but all in all, perfection. On the way home, either me, or a car right next to me got some very loud belt sqealing when making a left turn. I am inclined to say it was the car next to me as it did not present again since, and it is in great shape. Other than that though, and I'm in love. Drives like a dream, great condition, everything I want. I can get pictures in the morning, but I'm sure we've all seen 10AEs before
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Jun 7, 2008 04:36
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So I did a stupid thing today. Last night my car died at a stop sign right after I turned the AC on. Today I cleaned out the throttle body and was going over things and decided to have a look-see at my AFM. Never having taken apart a miata AFM I loosened the 2 bolts holding the connector on and pulled it out. oops. There are 3 leads coming out of the connector that appear to have globs of solder on them that I am guessing were once connected to the circuit board. I put the spade connectors back in their proper places but before I found the 3rd once coming from the black plastic piece on the clockspring I only had 2 connected. My car would run but not run above 3200 rpm and would usually die at idle. After I connected the 3rd connector it would not start at all. I already ordered a new AFM but it will cost $208 and I haven't paid for it yet so can anyone tell me if there is any way to salvage this? I think I may have just learned a very expensive lesson on not to gently caress with things before figuring out exactly how to do it first.
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Jun 8, 2008 21:15
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http://www.rivercityroad.com/garage/afm_fix.htm or buy a used RX-7 AFM off ebay?
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Jun 8, 2008 22:06
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^ I was looking for that while I was typing my reply and gave up, glad you found it. 208 dollars? Buy a used one for 40 bucks. If you cant find a miata AFM, the rx-7 one is very similar and there are guides on miata.net on how to do the swap.
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Jun 8, 2008 22:08
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^^^ A lot of people were saying that since the rx-7 unit is slightly larger it would run leaner but none were specific on if it was engine threatening. I now know how to adjust the spring tension to lean or richen the a/f mixture, but I'd rather not do that without a dyno or wideband. I may have to check with salvage yards around here because I really do not want to have to spend 200 bucks on the fuckin thing. But I can't exactly be without my car for an extended period of time as it is my only mode of transportation. Also, advance says it is a reman unit is there a way to say "gently caress you I want a brand new one" or does it even matter. I just don't want to have to deal with the spring adjustment being wrong or anything like that since it is "remanufactured" whatever exactly that means. EDIT: thanks so much for that link I can't believe it didn't show up during my intense google searching for many variations on miata 1.6 afm Chauncey fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Jun 8, 2008 |
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Jun 8, 2008 22:39
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So I welded the tabs back into their respective places via the link destructo posted. It still will start. It started just fine at the beginning of my fuckup, but now it won't, which leads me to believe I may have hosed something else up. Someone please tell me that is not the case.
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Jun 8, 2008 23:15
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Is it just me or are prices going way up on these cars? All the ones I see are around $5,000 or so with +150,000 miles. Jesus Christ.
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Jun 8, 2008 23:22
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Coredump posted:Is it just me or are prices going way up on these cars? All the ones I see are around $5,000 or so with +150,000 miles. Jesus Christ. Consider the season. It's a bad time to be buying.
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Jun 8, 2008 23:28
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:51 |
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It's in-season. Also, you have to account for the retard-factor. The same retards who buy a 99 Civic with 175k miles on it for $6k will probably do the same for a 1990 Miata. Not to mention that most Miata owners are convinced that the Miata is a collector's car.
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Jun 9, 2008 00:34
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