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My friend just bought an '88 or '89 Cherokee Laredo from his cousin for $650. 35" Goodyears, 5" lift, Stage 3 clutch (wtf?) and a snorkel. Virtually no rust at all. It needed a new oil pan, which was promptly replaced. However now it's not even starting. From what he briefly explained to me on the phone he said it was getting fuel or something. Hopefully he can get it running soon because ever since he sold his '87 Chevy K10 with a 327, I have missed offroading very very much.
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Jun 5, 2008 17:31
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:43 |
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I finally got around to putting the soft top on. I took 2 pictures. I haven't driven the jeep since March-ish and it fired right up. Anyway on the Front is a Vortex 12000lb winch. So far it does exceptionally well, it's a hair on the slow side, but beats using the hi-lift as a come along. As for the 12000lb rating I've not "tested" it, but for $350 I'm in love. It's similar to Bulldog, and Chicago Electric winches. I think I will be doing a new Herculiner coat this summer, or I may just scrub it and touch it up with rattle can.  
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Jun 5, 2008 18:04
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Glad to see everyone getting some cool Jeeps. Can't wait for more updates about the FSJ Cherokee.
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Jun 6, 2008 00:50
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Atticus_1354 posted:Glad to see everyone getting some cool Jeeps. Can't wait for more updates about the FSJ Cherokee. Eh. The transfer case chain is slipping and rocker replacement is more than I want to handle. I'm just going to flip it.
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Jun 6, 2008 14:02
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Thanks for the heads up, guys. I'll see if I can take care of it this weekend (I really pray it isn't costly). Do I need to take it somewhere specific or would any ole Auto Zone do? Yesterday I went on the highway for the first time in a long time and the wobble has gotten way worse. Now it's wobbling even if there are no cracks on the road and regardless of what speed I'm going at. It's embarrassing being on the highway and having to go at 30mph cause your car has the shakes. I need to take care of this asap.
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Jun 6, 2008 18:06
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My rockers were replaced before, but my quarters look like Swiss cheese. As far as I know, the rockers don't actually do anything but look pretty. Don't quote me on that though. Your tcase problem sounds like worn clutch cones to me, which is not critical. It means that your center diff is not-very-limited slip. A slipping chain usually means your tcase grenades pretty quickly. Once the chain jumps a tooth, it'll knock out a side of the aluminum case. Wait a few weeks and I'll let you know what it takes to replace the chain. I also get wheel hop and chirping tires when I stand on it out of a turn. My Emergency Drive vacuum lines are poo poo so I gotta replace those. It's a common problem so I'll bet yours are too. Wait a few weeks and I'll let you know what it takes to replace them.  Did the PO just remove the low range lever or the whole cable? The lever is under the seat. I first thought mine didn't have it until we moved the seat back. Sucks that you want to get rid of it. It's a pretty good looking truck for a great price.
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Jun 6, 2008 18:12
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XJ owner checking in.
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Jun 6, 2008 23:03
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:My rockers were replaced before, but my quarters look like Swiss cheese. As far as I know, the rockers don't actually do anything but look pretty. Don't quote me on that though. Yeah. I'm actually thinking about checking out the transfer-case before I sell it. If it isn't totally dying I will likely keep this and just run it into the ground off-road. Make it a true trail-whore. . If nothing else I will be able to honestly tell the buyer what is wrong. Is is not really possible for the chain to skip many teeth? At once? I guess that would quickly gently caress some poo poo up, huh? The noise I hear is basically this: From a stop, if I get on the gas hard I get a BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM. Sounds and feels like it is coming from under my butt. I was thinking that each BAM was a tooth being jumped, but you're right, as rapid and many times as it does it, that chain would be nuked or all bound-up, destroying the transfer case by now. So I wonder what it is... I don't think that the cones being bad would cause that kind of loud noise....? It sounds like someone it running an air-chisel or a 4 lb hammer on the sheet metal on the underside of the floor. This truck has a really ghetto exhaust system on it. I wonder if it is possible that when the engine torques the exhaust is sitting something/getting hit by something (d/s?) I'm going to take a look under the truck and see. I, too have heard that the rockers don't really do poo poo (which makes sense, it is a body on a beefy-rear end frame. If my transfer-case isn't about to poo poo the bed, I will likely just cut them off and see how it goes. If it looks real nasty or the body sags insanely (I doubt it), I'll welding in some big square tube that will be stronger and better off-road. If my doors sag a little I will eventually do it, but I don't really give a drat if the doors sag on this. If it is going to be a trail-slut, I'll probably take the doors off and make some tube-doors or something. So you say the low-range lever is UNDER THE SEAT? I'll go look right now and see if I see anything. The guy said he took off the cable, I assumed it was a cable and knob that connected to the low-range unit on the back of the t-case. Yeah, I tried my e-drive switch (which just dangles beside the glove box as it has no knob)... Nothing happened at all. In fact I drove in circles while flipping it back and forth with a pair of pliers and nothing happened.
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Jun 7, 2008 00:33
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Ok. Well that is a relief. I am 99% sure it is the weight on the drive shaft hitting the crappy home-made exhaust system, not the chain slipping. Here's the post I made on IFSJA (what a great resource):me on IFSJA posted:Well. I think I discovered the problem! Luckily (I am still going to check my chain slack and replace soon if it is needed), it is the weight on the driveshaft that is hitting the homemade exhaust system. Between the the shaft and the glasspack there is only about 1/4" clearance. The weight is easily 1/8" thick. I imagine when I accelerate hard, the drivetrain torques enough to cause the weight to hit the glasspack. The big hollow piece of steel being hit by the sharp-edged weight seems like it would make a sound similar to what I'm hearing. Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jun 7, 2008 |
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Jun 7, 2008 15:02
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Disciple of Pain posted:Ok. Well that is a relief. I am 99% sure it is the weight on the drive shaft hitting the crappy home-made exhaust system, not the chain slipping. Here's the post I made on IFSJA (what a great resource): Thank god. I was afraid you were going to give up without a fight.
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Jun 7, 2008 17:52
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Atticus_1354 posted:Thank god. I was afraid you were going to give up without a fight. No. And now that I know none of the major systems are dead or about to die, I'm going to keep it and use it... hard. I sell almost every vehicle I buy for a profit. I've decided on this one to just make sure I get my $500 of fun out of it before it shits the bed, then just scrap it. If it lasts 1 year or 10 years I won't be selling it, except in pieces. It my be a month or so before I can get it trail-ready, however. Although I guess even in its stock configuration I'd feel comfortable taking it out and putting it through its paces. Wag sag be damned, if this is going to be a trail slut I'm not supposed to care if I gently caress stuff up, and I'm cutting the rockers off anyway.
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Jun 7, 2008 18:14
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Disciple of Pain posted:and I'm cutting the rockers off anyway. Good. Cut the fenders while your at it and pick up a set of cheap large tires to put on it.
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Jun 7, 2008 21:17
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If you're cutting the rockers out, you might want to try and pick up some scrap steel and make some custom home made rock rails. I spose if you're just beating the poo poo out of it you probably wouldn't mind crunching up your doors anyways eh?
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Jun 7, 2008 21:34
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MrZig posted:If you're cutting the rockers out, you might want to try and pick up some scrap steel and make some custom home made rock rails. I spose if you're just beating the poo poo out of it you probably wouldn't mind crunching up your doors anyways eh? I'm going to use 2"x3" or 3"x3" rectangular steel tubing. Something like that, and simply weld/bolt it in place of the stock rockers. I'm likely taking the doors off for good, though anyway. I may take a look at the hinges and see how hard it would be to make some simple tube-doors, but I probably won't care enough for that right away. First I need to fix this exhaust issue. With all of the rocks around here, protecting the exhaust is important. I've seen many, many pinched or ripped off exhausts. Any idea how to route it so it will be better protected? I was thinking about routing the exhaust pipes up over the rear axle and just running turn-downs so the exhaust will be mostly up above the bumper/frame level.
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Jun 8, 2008 19:16
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Disciple of Pain posted:I'm going to use 2"x3" or 3"x3" rectangular steel tubing. Something like that, and simply weld/bolt it in place of the stock rockers. I'm likely taking the doors off for good, though anyway. I may take a look at the hinges and see how hard it would be to make some simple tube-doors, but I probably won't care enough for that right away. Awesome. You could always put on a quieter flowmaster (since they are super tough, I dont care for the sound that much though) and dump it right under the cab. That would be the most ideal and toughest exhaust, but also the worst sounding probably. And then you got the problem of exhaust coming into the cab.
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Jun 8, 2008 19:38
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MrZig posted:Awesome. Yeah, I though about that, but how would I route it so it would exit out the sides a bit. I will probably do something like that temporarily (sans muffler). I'll try to get it to exit behind the front seat. I won't be running mufflers on it though, at that point (I'd rather have it be loud as poo poo and losing torque than continue to have the driveshaft contacting the big glasspack. It can't be good for the u-joints/balance of the drive shaft.
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Jun 8, 2008 19:44
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I saw one of these babies on the road a couple of days ago. It's an AMC Eagle. It's not a Jeep but it's quite close to one, considering that they share a driveline. Wikipedia picture.
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Jun 8, 2008 20:27
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I think I found where my pretty red liquid is coming from. The transmission pan gasket looks like hell. I reached up to feel it and a piece broke off in my hand. I guess I gotta drop the pan next week, which is disappointing because the fluid looks so pretty and bright. I also think I found where the gas is leaking from (my purpose for crawling under it today). Looks like the tank has been patched at some point. Forgot to snap some pictures of my awesome dual exhaust setup for Disciple of Pain. I'll probably do that tomorrow.
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Jun 9, 2008 05:22
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Desunive posted:AMC Eagle I've been trying to find one of these around Portland OR for a year or two. There's a guy who owns one but he ain't sellin'. They're so awesome.
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Jun 9, 2008 05:24
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^If you really want one you need to buy one in Colorado and drive it back. They seem to have the highest number of clean Eagles.Desunive posted:I saw one of these babies on the road a couple of days ago. I really want one of these. It is on my list of possible future diesel vehicles. I would drop a Mercedes diesel in it and do a grease car conversion. It would be great.
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Jun 9, 2008 05:25
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So I'm thinking about ditching the dual exhaust. The reason why the glasspack is hitting the driveshaft is because it pretty much HAS to be that close to it - there is a massive gas tank and skid plate blocking a more conventional path. SO, I don't know. I might just fab a y-pipe (or possibly buy one... apparently you can get them from Rock Auto). OR maybe I'll just figure something out and have side-exits or even exits under the cab. I'm thinking after I cut the rockers/fenders and pull the doors off I am going to use a DA or pinstripe remover on a drill to get rid of the nasty white stripe on the side. Then I'm going to take some gloss black and mix it with US Army Olive Drab, then paint the whole truck that color. Or maybe leave the top white. Thoughts on that? The semi-gloss "dark" OD looks like this (used on M38A1s and M715/725s):  For the MV nuts, it is going to be OD24087, although probably a bit darker (which was very common at the unit level, simply by adding more black to the paint.... some 'Nam trucks were apparently *almost* black for certain missions specifications - night convoys, etc).
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Jun 9, 2008 05:33
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I think the two-tone white top would look cool. I'd at least give it a try at first to see what it looks like. You can always go back over it. Or cover it with green canvas. If you're gonna pull the doors anyway, you should get rid of your back glass, too. A lot of people want the manual crank setup to replace their broken electric ones. You could get a few bucks to put back in your truck.
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Jun 9, 2008 06:09
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I think the two-tone white top would look cool. I'd at least give it a try at first to see what it looks like. You can always go back over it. Or cover it with green canvas. Yeah. I think the white top would look cool, too. And you're right... if it looks like crap, OD covers *everything* really well. I think my manual crank might be messed up. The window goes down on its own about 2 inches, and you can only crank it down about a foot before it feels like it hits something and stops. As this is going to be a camping rig as well, I might eventually rig up some type of snap system and canvas to divide the front seat area from the rest and then another to go where the rear window would go. Then pull the rear seats (maybe, they are in poo poo condition - so something needs to be done) and make a flat platform to go back there for storage and/or sleeping. I'd prefer to sleep in a good tent, but being able to weatherproof supplies would be nice. I could always use the same system for winter driving (and maybe keep the doors to slap on when it is cold. I don't think I would be driving a whole lot in the winter, but it would be nice to put them on to keep the weather out...
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Jun 9, 2008 06:27
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I want to pull my rear seat and get one of those air mattresses to put back there. It'd be nice if I could find a way to be able to quickly get the seat in and out so I can just pull it out to sleep in when I'm on the trail. Sleeping like this has been my dream since I was a kid: (Kevin Bacon isn't really in my dreams) On to the exhaust. Overview:  Left side under the frame, not so bad:  Left glasspack saggin' a bit:  Here's the butchery! Right side between the spring and frame:   Some good bumps are going to give me a nice single exhaust setup one day. Right saggin':  This was also hanging out the side too. A hack saw fixed that. Nature took care of the color matching on the end. Looks like there is plenty of room to actually stick mufflers up behind the rockers, mine just aren't. The problem is getting it under the frame. I think the left is OK, but the right is awful. I'm not going to fix it until it breaks. Those are stocks headers as far as I know, for the Y-pipe. The right header comes out way differently, and one of the POs just got lazy with the exhaust.
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Jun 10, 2008 02:12
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Someone in the Okangan, British Columbia, should buy this: http://kelowna.en.craigslist.ca/car/676733895.html Looks awesome, and runs good as far as I know (it's a friend's friend's)
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Jun 10, 2008 02:23
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NeerWas fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 9, 2023 |
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Jun 12, 2008 00:26
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I'd say end of summer. Nobody buys a Wrangler for winter driving (if they do, they're not very bright).
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Jun 12, 2008 00:40
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Godholio posted:Nobody buys a Wrangler for winter driving (if they do, they're not very bright). Wait...what? That's a load of crap. My TJ handles like a champ in the snow. And with a hardtop, it's still warm. I could see people offloading their soft tops in the fall (wusses), but any Jeep owner who knows anything and lives in a place where there is inclement winter weather would keep it.
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Jun 12, 2008 19:20
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Godholio posted:Nobody buys a Wrangler for winter driving (if they do, they're not very bright). I thought my wrangler handled pretty well in the snow. Though mine wasn’t great with the wide mud tires, so I swapped my pizza cutters back on from when I first bought the Wrangler, and it did really well. The only time it got “hairy” would be when it was super super windy out and the roads were slick. But I guess any vehicle would be about the same only the jeep is such a small wheel base and not that heavy it doesn’t take much. I wish I didn’t sell that Jeep 
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Jun 12, 2008 19:40
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Drat double post
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Jun 12, 2008 19:40
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I have a 2000 4.0 TJ and the coldest my ac will blow is about 75. Would I need to get my poo poo recharged?
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Jun 12, 2008 20:55
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NeerWas fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 9, 2023 |
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Jun 13, 2008 02:12
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The point is that everyone buys Jeeps as the weather gets warmer and sells them as it gets cold.
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Jun 13, 2008 02:34
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MrZig posted:Someone in the Okangan, British Columbia, should buy this:
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Jun 13, 2008 02:57
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Braincloud posted:Wait...what? That's a load of crap. My TJ handles like a champ in the snow. And with a hardtop, it's still warm. If you've got good tires for it, sure it'll handle fine in the snow. Its a blast! But on roads slick from ice or rain, your choice of tire is really going to make a difference whether you careen off the road or not. If you have a hard top its not too bad, but if you have a soft top it can be unbearable in cold weather. When you really want to have the Jeep is spring and summer for the mud/trails/rocks. When I sell mine (not anytime soon!) it'll be in the fall, when I can probably get a few extra bucks for having both tops.
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Jun 13, 2008 03:21
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Cocoyofoo posted:I have a 2000 4.0 TJ and the coldest my ac will blow is about 75. Would I need to get my poo poo recharged? You could just take the doors off for free. I have the same make and model and use my air conditioning about 1% of the time I spend driving. And I live in Texas. Unless you are going to sell it anytime soon I would say save the money and go buy some beer, or an air intake.
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Jun 14, 2008 18:40
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Cocoyofoo posted:I have a 2000 4.0 TJ and the coldest my ac will blow is about 75. Would I need to get my poo poo recharged? How hot is it outside? I think A/C should blow about 20 less than ambient.
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Jun 14, 2008 18:50
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Here's my recently sold '98 TJ on 35's.. I miss it. 
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Jun 14, 2008 20:17
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Boggler posted:Here's my recently sold '98 TJ on 35's.. I miss it. I think I saw that jeep sitting at the mall the other day...
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Jun 15, 2008 03:30
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:43 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:How hot is it outside? I think A/C should blow about 20 less than ambient. Even when its 60 out the air isn't cold at all.
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Jun 15, 2008 03:43
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