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Wow, it's not really a community garage as much as a shop class for adults. Their class list is pretty impressive. I'll have to check them out when the seattle location opens.
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Jun 1, 2008 12:05
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sharkytm posted:This is not true. My 33G Craftsman compressor holds pressure perfectly. Try opening and closing the bottom drain valve a few times, and then set the compressor in its side, and spray soapy water on the drain valve. If it bubbles, its leaking, a new one is about $13. You QD should seal perfectly, unless its worn out. You could also try taking it off, and re-applying teflon tape to seal the threads. Try the soapy water trick there too. So true. My black or blue something? err... Generic branded 2.5HP compressor doesn't leak at all. I bought it in a combo with airtools and a lovely coil hose that came pre-split! I got them to replace it and bought a nice 20m hose anyway. Never tried the replacement coil. The combo included everything except the bloody QD connector, which I had to buy from the hardware store. After I did that I realised I didn't have any tape to seal it with. So I just did my normal thing and improvised. Threadlocker works perfectly. My compressor loses nothing even if I leave the cutoff valve open and have the quick connector bearing the brunt.
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Jun 1, 2008 13:27
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 Left to Right, Top to bottom. Unknown Brand 4" Air Angle grinder. Atlas Copco 3/8" rattle gun Unknown Die Grinder Ingersoll Rand 5040 1/2" rattle gun IR 3/8" Air ratchet (yellow one below it) Atlas Copco 3/4" Air ratchet Seisaku 1/2" air ratchet Atlas Copco 3/8" air ratchet IR 1/2" Air ratchet Unknown Air tec gun Atlas Copco die grinder UR-Sol 3/8" Rattle gun A$5 each!  The sockets and extensions cost me A$20 for the lot! I was lucky enough to be around when they were selling everything out of a car factory they were shutting down! Now i need a MUCH bigger compressor... and 1/2" airline!
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Jun 1, 2008 15:05
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Does anyone own a set of Big Red jack stands? http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200313355_200313355 I had the opportunity to work with some during some emergency maintenance on miklm's car at a DE last weekend, and I thought they were really well made, and perfect for the paddock area at Barber (where you have to have the jack stand weight evenly distributed). Any feedback on them?
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Jun 1, 2008 15:36
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devnull420 posted:Also, is there a good way to get a new bolt to stick back in? My ghetto fabulous plan is to get the bolt out, stick a new bolt through the gate into the hole left in the concrete wall, and then fill it in with pieces of broken concrete (have a bunch of it lying around) and concrete cement. I don't really have a great selection of tools (just the minimum I need to work on my car and various assorted others) so I'm trying to make do with what I got, no way to stick a new bolt into concrete (that I know of at least). Speaking of which, use epoxy to get the new bolt to stick in the old hole  They're probably with the hurricane straps in the big box, as they're common to tie houses to foundations.
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Jun 1, 2008 17:23
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multiprotocol posted:Does anyone own a set of Big Red jack stands? I have the Torin Big Red Jack set. I got this exact set: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200305241_200305241 About 4 years ago. The trolley jack has since failed but I was overusing it anyway. I still use the jacks and have 0 issues or complaints with them. The wheel chocks are wheel chocks. I replaced the crappy trolley jack with a nice harbor freight unit and man it makes setup a breeze compared to before.
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Jun 1, 2008 22:44
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RealKyleH posted:I have the Torin Big Red Jack set. How the gently caress do you overuse a jack?
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Jun 2, 2008 04:59
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Toucan Sam posted:How the gently caress do you overuse a jack? Its a 2 ton (yea sure) jack under a 4500+ lb car.
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Jun 2, 2008 05:03
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In other words you bought a jack to small for your vehicle and proceeded to use it anyway.
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Jun 2, 2008 05:07
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Toucan Sam posted:In other words you bought a jack to small for your vehicle and proceeded to use it anyway. I love it when people read something, assume a bunch of other conditions are true and proceed to make snarky comments. It always goes well and is accurate.
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Jun 2, 2008 05:45
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My lovely little air compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter plug died on me at the track last weekend. So I just picked up a small oil-less air compressor. 3 gallon tank with max 100psi. This one: http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-FP204999AV-Compressor-Inflation/dp/B0002ZHBNM I was wondering if it'll be sufficient enough to take the the track with me to inflate tires. Keep in mind I likely won't have access to a power cord, so assuming the 3 gallon tank is topped up to 100psi, will I have enough air to inflate 4 tires from 32psi to 45psi?
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Jun 2, 2008 16:01
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Toucan Sam posted:In other words you bought a jack to small for your vehicle and proceeded to use it anyway. Unless he somehow managed to stick the jack under the very center of the car and tried to lift the whole thing, I really doubt that the jack was even lifting 2 tons.
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Jun 2, 2008 16:21
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whiskas posted:I was wondering if it'll be sufficient enough to take the the track with me to inflate tires. Keep in mind I likely won't have access to a power cord, so assuming the 3 gallon tank is topped up to 100psi, will I have enough air to inflate 4 tires from 32psi to 45psi? What's it's current draw? You might be able to run it with an inverter from the car anyway, but you're probably better off looking at the 12v compressors people like Viair produce Contraband posted:I really doubt that the jack was even lifting 2 tons.
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Jun 2, 2008 23:56
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whiskas posted:I was wondering if it'll be sufficient enough to take the the track with me to inflate tires. Keep in mind I likely won't have access to a power cord, so assuming the 3 gallon tank is topped up to 100psi, will I have enough air to inflate 4 tires from 32psi to 45psi? No, you'll need a lot more than that. I'm planning on building something like this, but with a larger tank, for track use. http://www.instructables.com/id/CO2-system-for-running-air-tools-and-filling-tires/
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Jun 3, 2008 00:00
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oxbrain posted:No, you'll need a lot more than that. The 100psi air tank won't get you far either. If you picked up a paintball air tank you could have a chance, but you'd need to find a 88 or 114/4500 do do any real good.
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Jun 3, 2008 00:33
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oxbrain posted:I'm planning on building something like this, but with a larger tank, for track use. I have one of those. Quoting myself. maxwedge posted:http://www.ultimate-air.com/
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Jun 3, 2008 01:46
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Nerobro posted:I don't like that rig. There are some problems with it that I could fix.. But filling your tires with CO2 has it's own trouble. CO2's pressure of vaporization is a rather nasty curve, and you can reach tempratures and pressures that will cause co2 to condense without any real trouble. If that's "all I had to work with" I'd do it, and I'd put a vapor separator between the bottle and the regulator, and then I'd put some sort of radiator on the regulators output, the closer to ambiant the co2 is when it goes int the tires the better off you are. And then I'd fill my tires slowly. You kind of hit on my reason for a bigger tank. A 15# bottle filled 2/3 full wouldn't have nearly the same problems as a full 10#. Running an impact hammer or grinder takes a lot of flow, and they usually vent right at your hand. The cold also attracts moisture, and since your co2 won't have any oil it can lead to rusty tools in no time. I wouldn't worry about track tires. Topping off a 195/60/14 on a warm day isn't going to use much volume, and the wheel/tire would retain plenty of heat to flash-boil any vapor that makes it through the hose. Any pressure change after filling would be too small to measure with normal gages. Filling a 35" off-road tire in cold weather is another matter, and I see your point. This isn't usually an issue as you're either filling from flat to low-psi or from low-psi to road-psi. Unless you're coming very close to the sidewall rating you won't see enough pressure change to blow the tire. My original idea was to use a 20oz paintball co2 tank through a 5gal expansion tank. The problem was that paintball regulators that flow enough to run an impact hammer are far more costly than what I want, and adapting a standard regulator would have been far more clunky. Instead of adding weight in fittings and a mount I figure I'll add weight in the bottle. Maxwedge posted:http://www.ultimate-air.com/ I like their setup, I don't like the $200 price tag for something I could assemble for <$100.
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Jun 3, 2008 02:25
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Survey for you guys- For those like myself who love pick and pull junkyards, what tools do you usually bring with ya? I know half the time I'm kicking myself for not sharpening my knife to cut through hoses, but usually I have a socket set, metric wrenches, a prybar, torx and regular scredrivers, wire cutters, and various other goodies in my bag. Anyone else want to share their junkyard tool set?
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Jun 3, 2008 03:27
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Usually all I need is a metric set of sockets, screwdriver with 5 types of bits, knife, socket extensions, ratchets, hammer, and a 3/8 breaker bar.
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Jun 3, 2008 03:36
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Serrated knives go through hose when dull. I bring an assortment of everything, some of the bigger stuff gets left in the car. Socket sets in long and short, ratchet in 1/2" and 3/8", breaker bars, nitrile gloves, pry bars, box wrenches, flarenut wrenches, vice-grips, flatnose and needlenose pliers, big wire cutters, long and short screw drivers, impact driver, rubber mallet, lead hammer, slide hammer, and small bolt cutters(great for power steering lines). I've also brought my engine hoist for pulling engines.
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Jun 3, 2008 03:39
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Back when I was driving my 15 year old camaro, I'd never go anywhere without a full toolset; english and metric sockets, set of craftsmen ratchet wrenches, pliers, adjustable wrench, channel locks, a set of screwdrivers, fix-a-flat, tire plug kit, air pump, and every kind of fluid the car could possibly leak.
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Jun 3, 2008 23:50
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Money Walrus posted:Survey for you guys- For those like myself who love pick and pull junkyards, what tools do you usually bring with ya? I know half the time I'm kicking myself for not sharpening my knife to cut through hoses, but usually I have a socket set, metric wrenches, a prybar, torx and regular scredrivers, wire cutters, and various other goodies in my bag. is a sawzall the wrong answer? Last time i helped someone get some parts from a car, we just sawed off roughly where we needed!
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Jun 4, 2008 10:04
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Ferremit posted:is a sawzall the wrong answer? You'd fit in with all those guys selling the catalytic converters at a pick n' pull
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Jun 4, 2008 10:23
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$60 yard sale score. Recommendations for 1/2 airline? I plan on piping with galv down to my garage.
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Jun 10, 2008 06:17
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Sweet compressor. Should be getting a Husky tool case and some extra tools this weekend for a good deal. Can't wait
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Jun 10, 2008 06:38
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I bought a house with a nice 2 car garage about a month ago, and I've been going nuts over tools ever since. I just picked up this from amazon for 88$.  It's going to be my first air ratchet, it has 90lbs of torque! Needless to say I'm excited. I've used impact wrenches since I was 15, but I never had a ratchet. For those of you who have air ratchets, how awesome are they, and how much would you hate not having one now that you do?
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Jun 10, 2008 20:26
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ease posted:For those of you who have air ratchets, how awesome are they, and how much would you hate not having one now that you do? They're more cumbersome than normal ratchets and it's much too easy to break or strip threads. I used mine a couple times, then put it away and haven't touched it since.
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Jun 10, 2008 20:44
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Just a tip for refreshing "worn-out" Hydraulic jacks. I had some off-brand floorjack that served me well for a while. Lately it had gotten weaker and wouldn't lift anything more than a few inches. Popped off the sheet metal and there were two bolts. one was the bleeder valve on the front to let the thing down, and the other was a bit bigger and on top of the reservoir. I pulled the jack up all the way by hand and filled the reservoir with brake fluid through that top hole, closed it up and bled out the air through the normal bleeding valve to let it down. Now it works perfectly and lifts my truck up to its full height. Just as before, I would never get under the car supported by this jack. I've been extra careful using it since adding the fluid, but it has performed well since then. And about air ratchets, I've found that they don't really help. Its not like Impact wrench where it uses the inertia of the hammer to drive the bolt in. In the end, you still have to supply the torque, it just goes a bit faster. The Torque rating doesn't really matter, if you can't get it off with a normal socket wrench, an air ratchet won't help, it'll just jerk your wrist around a lot more. I use mine occasionally when I already have the compressor going, but only because it makes a sweet noise. Otherwise its useless to me.
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Jun 10, 2008 21:23
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Upgrayedd posted:I pulled the jack up all the way by hand and filled the reservoir with brake fluid through that top hole, closed it up and bled out the air through the normal bleeding valve to let it down. Now it works perfectly and lifts my truck up to its full height.
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Jun 10, 2008 22:51
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oxbrain posted:They're more cumbersome than normal ratchets and it's much too easy to break or strip threads. I used mine a couple times, then put it away and haven't touched it since. They're really handy for a few applications like removing transmission pans and valve covers where there is a lot of low-torque repetition, but that's about it.
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Jun 10, 2008 22:56
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Kynetx posted:They're really handy for a few applications like removing transmission pans and valve covers where there is a lot of low-torque repetition, but that's about it. I use ours from time to time. It actually came in really handy screwing 40 or so lag bolts into wood while building a hay trailer.
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Jun 10, 2008 23:10
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RandomG posted:Finally chose to get an expensive tiny crowbar: Um. On many motors (all?) that you need to adjust the valves on it makes a HUGE difference. If you set the clearances to a COLD setting when the motor was at operating temperature, they are going to be LOOOOSE. Although, worse - if you set to a COLD setting when the engine is even a little warm - they will be too tight.
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Jun 10, 2008 23:28
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PainterofCrap posted:$60 yard sale score. Upgrayedd posted:And about air ratchets, I've found that they don't really help. Its not like Impact wrench where it uses the inertia of the hammer to drive the bolt in. In the end, you still have to supply the torque, it just goes a bit faster. The Torque rating doesn't really matter, if you can't get it off with a normal socket wrench, an air ratchet won't help, it'll just jerk your wrist around a lot more.
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Jun 13, 2008 19:28
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Decision time guys: I need to get some power tools. Namely, a drill and a jigsaw. A circular saw or router might be helpful too, but aren't necessary. They'll be used lightly and not very often (not a contractor or pro mechanic). There was a pretty badass deal on a DeWalt DC728KA at Lowe's, and I picked one up. $89 for it. Only thing I don't like is that it uses NiCad batteries and is kinda pricey. Now, after seeing a deal at Home Depot for a Ryobi One+ starter kit, I'm kind of questioning myself. I can get a drill and circular saw for $99. Then, I can pick any tool or One+ accessory for free. I'd probably either get the Li-Ion upgrade kit, then hock the original batteries (and maybe the circular saw) on eBay and get a decent jigsaw. Essentially, I could probably end up paying about $40 for a Li-Ion drill. I can still return (or eBay, since they're going for quite a bit) the DeWalt. Should I? Or will the difference in quality be vast. Keep in mind, the tools will be used sparingly and newbishly  .
Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jun 13, 2008 |
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Jun 13, 2008 20:08
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Nice double post there, Pissingintowind  .
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Jun 13, 2008 20:10
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InitialDave posted:You should probably use proper hydraulic oil - brake fluid can do nasty things to seals in systems designed for mineral oils. Absolutely. The brake fluid will soften/swell up an oil seal tremendously. Eventually when it is under pressure (in your case, that would be jacking up a car) the seal will have catastrophic failure and it will fail. It will work for some time and indeed the "swelling" effect of the seal surface may actually help it "seal" better temporarily, but the pressure capacity of the seal will be compromised. Throw any jack away that you've done this to. The only way it won't fail is if by freak chance the manufacturer made the jack with a seal that is compatible with brake fluid AND oils, which is unlikely. Heck, I don't even know if such a material exists.
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Jun 13, 2008 20:22
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PTFE works fine with brake fluid or mineral oil and is the most commonly used material for hydraulic seals.  You shouldn't use brake fluid because it absorbs water and will rust the metal in the cylinder faster. The sudden failure is from the seal tearing after being rubbed on a rusty cylinder too many times. If you change the fluid every 6-12 months(like your car) it'll be fine.
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Jun 13, 2008 23:06
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Any suggestions for riveting tools? I need to rivet and bond in some patches on the humvee's aluminum body while I got everything apart. I don't have access to an air compressor so it'll probably have to be a hand tool. I'm basically drilling out the ends of cracks, and placing T6 aluminum sheets with pre drilled rivet holes and a slather of bonding agent/epoxy before I snap them in.
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Jun 14, 2008 00:48
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Today I refreshed my cheapo air impact gun. (Coleman Powermate) I was surprised to find out it was made of very few parts. I simply took 4 set screws out of the back and removed the two assemblies and the shaft. I cleaned out all the parts and housing and began to lube it up. The old oil sitting in the housing was disgusting and looked like a bit of light rust mixed with coolant and oil. My air compressor has a big leak so I haven't tested it yet but I am confident it will work as new again. Quick guide to cleaning mine: On the front was the shaft which, if I am not mistaken, sits in a small bearing. I simply wiped it off and put a little wheel bearing grease on it and slid it back in. Next were these two assemblies. the one between the shaft and back assembly was a fastened together piece made of what looked like a few cast, then machined steel parts. This was the one that when you put oil in the side of your impact gun, it goes directly onto it. I cleaned it, gave it a bath in some Syn ATF I had from a previous tranny change, and slid it back in. (I added syn ATF to the housing walls as well.) The rear assembly was just 5 main pieces that went together in rear part of the gun's housing. Two end pieces made out of aluminum that air flowed through, a cast steel body and the innards of the assembly which contained little blades that came out when you depressed the trigger due to centrifugal force. This wasn't as dirty so I just wiped it down, gave everything a good coating of oil and put it all back in. Its important to note that theres a small piece that causes a few different parts to line up including the rear assembly with the housing and the front assembly.
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Jun 14, 2008 03:02
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BigKOfJustice posted:Any suggestions for riveting tools? I use a hand riveter by craftsman on a regular basis if I can't get to an air line.
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Jun 14, 2008 03:11
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
