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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1254&mospid=47308&btnr=11_0538&hg=11&fg=15 #3?
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Jun 10, 2008 20:56
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1254&mospid=47308&btnr=11_0538&hg=11&fg=15 Now why the hell didn't I see that picture? Thanks, that's the one!
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Jun 10, 2008 21:08
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According to the latest Roundel, BMW is going to have a 3-series tii. Not sure if it means a concept or a production car, but still... this would be totally awesome. carbon fiber body parts, an M differential bigger wheels/brakes, and engine mods good for +35HP... 
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Jun 11, 2008 16:15
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CornHolio posted:According to the latest Roundel, BMW is going to have a 3-series tii. Not sure if it means a concept or a production car, but still... this would be totally awesome. When does the Roundel get mailed out? I signed up for BMW CCA a couple weeks ago, and was looking for an issue. waaaaa
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Jun 11, 2008 20:43
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kimbo305 posted:When does the Roundel get mailed out? I signed up for BMW CCA a couple weeks ago, and was looking for an issue. waaaaa Usually around the first of the month. You might have been too late though, I dunno. You can see it online, I think, if you log in at https://www.bmwcca.org. They also have backissues.
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Jun 11, 2008 22:01
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I thought this was amusing M6 SMASH ARMY TRUCK
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Jun 12, 2008 15:56
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CornHolio posted:I thought this was amusing That's a 645  (look at the wheels)
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Jun 12, 2008 21:12
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Nait Sirhc posted:That's a 645 Dont I feel dumb, the link I got it from said it was an M6  But yeah, now that Im looking for it, you're right. http://www.bobmodifiedbmw.com/bmw-m6-stronger-than-truck/ fuckers.
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Jun 12, 2008 21:34
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CornHolio posted:Dont I feel dumb, the link I got it from said it was an M6 Am I the only one here who absolutely despises that website?
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Jun 12, 2008 23:03
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TractionControl posted:Am I the only one here who absolutely despises that website?
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Jun 12, 2008 23:29
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Nait Sirhc posted:That's a 645
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Jun 14, 2008 01:15
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TractionControl posted:Am I the only one here who absolutely despises that website? wow, that is quite terrible. I found it through a google search, I... I didn't know! Oh god its terrible
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Jun 14, 2008 03:21
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Mad Dragon posted:I noticed the tailpipes first. (shameless plug) And on that note, I'm going to post pics after my recent paint makeover. Wash, cleanse, clay bar, polish, wax.     Note the ZHP knob. I just got this from Tischer BMW for $54 shipped, it's an absolute must-have. They sell them in both 5- and 6-speed versions. It's counterweighted, too, and feels like sex in the palm of your hand. Nait Sirhc fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jun 14, 2008 |
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Jun 14, 2008 04:08
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klosterdev posted:I hope this hasn't been posted yet "GINA is an acronym, a set of letters..." well gently caress off Bangle -- I would have never come to that conclusion/realization without your half-wit rear end.  TractionControl posted:Am I the only one here who absolutely despises that website? LOL -- what a loving terrible GIF! thealphabetsez fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Jun 14, 2008 |
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Jun 14, 2008 06:49
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What's the concensus on the 1-series hatchbacks? I'm being given a new one by work, which will be an '08 118d SE 5-door. The brochure lists a few features I like, specifically the fuel efficiency and the fact that it carries the roadside breakdown stuff required to make it legal in Europe. Certainly it looks better than the alternatives, which were an A3 or a Golf TDI, which from the looks of things are the same car with a different body. Oh and a bus pass. How responsive is the auto stop-start feature? I'm having a little trouble imagining exactly how it works. Does the ignition have to turn over again to get the thing going, or is there some sort of voodoo in there that starts it up faster than that? So, are they good or bad for doing 30k or so miles a year?
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Jun 14, 2008 15:10
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Mr Crucial posted:What's the concensus on the 1-series hatchbacks? I'm being given a new one by work, which will be an '08 118d SE 5-door. The brochure lists a few features I like, specifically the fuel efficiency and the fact that it carries the roadside breakdown stuff required to make it legal in Europe. Certainly it looks better than the alternatives, which were an A3 or a Golf TDI, which from the looks of things are the same car with a different body. Oh and a bus pass.
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Jun 14, 2008 16:59
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khizrs posted:I have used a 318d and a Mini Clubman with stop start, and it was bad, don't you get a choice of car? The choice is either the 118 or a car allowance and I have to find my own vehicle, which would probably work out more expensive because there are stupid stipulations on allowable car age and mileage. What was so bad about the stop-start?
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Jun 14, 2008 22:16
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khizrs posted:I have used a 318d and a Mini Clubman with stop start, and it was bad, don't you get a choice of car?
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Jun 15, 2008 07:43
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Also, since I haven't seen any in this thread yet... ANGEL EYEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ 
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Jun 15, 2008 08:21
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japtor posted:Can't you just disable the stop/start? I know the Minis can do that, I assume the BMWs can too. You can, but it's annoying to have to press the disable button every time you get in.
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Jun 15, 2008 13:46
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Nait Sirhc posted:ANGEL EYEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ What aftermarket company did you buy those from?
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Jun 16, 2008 05:31
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 VIDEO POST Here's the video I said I'd post that kind of illustrates my central locking question. If you recall, I wanted to know about how trunk key position impacts ability of the trunk to open. For anyone interested, I was able to restore every other key-turn function to the drivers' door. The window pulled the wires out of their plugs when it went down, which caused the problem. To answer some stuff: The passenger side is NOT supposed to turn on the interior lights when you lift the handle. I don't know why some of you said it should. I guess you didn't actually test it  . There is simply no wire or receptacle for it.The windows and roof ARE supposed to roll closed from both sides. I still don't know if the windows are supposed to roll OPEN or not (from both sides or one). I am leaning towards no, since there was nothing wrong with the wiring in my passenger side, and the chances that it would fail on both front doors are somewhat slim. Maybe those of you reporting that it does work have some sort of aftermarket addition?
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Jun 16, 2008 22:06
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Pissingintowind posted:
I've never heard of this -- I believe it's only to close them. Can't comment on the trunk thing, as I've got a hatchback...
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Jun 17, 2008 05:58
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snugglz posted:I've never heard of this -- I believe it's only to close them. Can't comment on the trunk thing, as I've got a hatchback... Thanks for the reply. The window thing everyone seems to disagree on. The trunk thing I am nearly sure is a valet feature.
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Jun 17, 2008 13:15
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I posted a thread about putting keyless entry in my E30. A problem I'm having now is that I have all the wires hooked up but now my horn doesn't work. When I hooked up the wire to the horn circuit and plugged the battery back in, it honked briefly then turned off. Now it doesn't work at all! I have removed the wire I spliced into the horn switch wire but it still doesn't work.
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Jun 17, 2008 15:41
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Did you check the fuses?
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Jun 17, 2008 16:39
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Did you check the fuses? Yep, fuses are all fine.
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Jun 17, 2008 19:49
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well, I was driving around on Sunday and its pouring rain and then suddenly THUNK THUNK THUTHUTHUTHUTHUIRNGVIENGFIERNEIRG massive hail. I got under the nearest bridge I could, but it was too late, my car sustained a couple thousand dollars worth of damage, by the body shop's quick estimate. It didnt look too bad until I pulled it into their shop and saw it under their lights. Good thing I have insurance.  poor E36, riddled with a hundred dents...
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Jun 20, 2008 00:32
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I finally picked up a 325i parts car (Right) to get my 1996 318ti (Left) going:    I paid $1000 for a running 1994 325i with a manual transmission and 170K miles on it. The previous owner was going to turn it into a track car, but gave up due to a lack of time and money. Amazingly enough, the car is drivable in this condition. It only has one check engine code which is for the evap system (Because it is currently disconnected). The manual transmission, engine, Bilstein HD struts, and staggered replica M Contour 17 inch rims will all probably be moved over to the 318ti. The previous owner said one of the rims might be tweaked a little, so I will have to get them checked at the local shop. The 325i might also have a short shifter, and he claimed it had an M3 exhaust, but I am not sure. The exhaust will need to be redone anyway to make it fit.  This free car is going to end up being an awesome money pit. 
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Jun 20, 2008 05:54
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So I was having a problem with my E46 and was wondering if this was the right thread to post in: After I turn off the car the fan (it's the auxiliary fan that's attached behind the radiator and in front of the block) continues to run at full blast. At first I thought it'd turn off but after an hour or so it was still running. It actually kept running until the batteries ran dry, and when I plugged it into another car to jump it the fan still continued to run until I just unplugged it. Anyone have any ideas?
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Jun 20, 2008 06:03
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I was looking over my car, and on the sides there are little pits in the paint. The area inside the pit is also painted, but on one side, theres a tiny bit of rust showing up. How the hell do I get the rust out of there? I dont want car cancer
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Jun 20, 2008 13:07
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CornHolio posted:I was looking over my car, and on the sides there are little pits in the paint. The area inside the pit is also painted, but on one side, theres a tiny bit of rust showing up. How the hell do I get the rust out of there? I dont want car cancer Are the areas inside the pit painted with original paint, or has someone painted them up with touchup paint & it's now started to rust from behind?
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Jun 20, 2008 13:12
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Taymar posted:Are the areas inside the pit painted with original paint, or has someone painted them up with touchup paint & it's now started to rust from behind? I can't tell, it doesn't look touched up though. There's a few chips out of the paint that don't have rust in them, and I don't know if thats from the hail or if I just never noticed it before. This is the area in question:   There's also a streak on the sunroof but I couldn't get a good picture of that.  I've never owned a car with rust before, despite living in the rust belt. Then again I've never owned an 11-year-old car. I just don't want it to spread. I planned on washing/claybarring/waxing the car this weekend and I want to know how to tackle this rust.
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Jun 20, 2008 14:22
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Lufiron posted:What aftermarket company did you buy those from? umnitza.com. My car came with halogens, and they were running a special for their projector housings, ballasts/bulbs, and CCFLs.
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Jun 20, 2008 16:10
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Looking for a little help here, I've heard bmws are hit and miss when it comes to reliability. What I mean is, some models/years are quite expensive and some aren't. Can anybody provide more info on this? I'm quite liking the enthusiast market on this automobile and am very anxious to buy one if it can be my daily driver. I should add I'm investigating the E30s and E36s.
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Jun 20, 2008 19:32
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CornHolio posted:I just don't want it to spread. I planned on washing/claybarring/waxing the car this weekend and I want to know how to tackle this rust. I don't know whether this would be considered the 'right' way to do this, but how I've approached similar blemishes (rock chips which started to rust) was to use a 3M fiberglass sanding pen to remove all the rust, leaving a ~1/4" circle of bare metal. I tried all manner of other things which would leave a smaller spot but didn't have much luck myself. I primed this with a ballpoint primer pen, and finished with touchup paint. I intend to use some sort of abrasive to smooth the repair out, but I've been putting this step off for fear of screwing it up. It won't look perfect but I hope at least the rust is gone.
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Jun 20, 2008 20:12
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ethanol posted:Looking for a little help here, I've heard bmws are hit and miss when it comes to reliability. What I mean is, some models/years are quite expensive and some aren't. Can anybody provide more info on this? I'm quite liking the enthusiast market on this automobile and am very anxious to buy one if it can be my daily driver. Generally the more complex the BMW the less reliable it will be. Ergo, the E21 and E30 3-series are almost rock solid, E36s are still reliable but have their faults, E46s are as reliable as E36s with the exception of a few electrical components, and I have no idea about E90s. This also works as a general rule by saying that the 3 series will be more reliable when compared to similar year 5, 6, 7 and 8 series cars. The good thing about BMWs is the large enthusiast community on the web. Every common fault of every generation has been dealt with and there will be well documented DIYs for fixing those problems. One important thing when it comes to buying a used BMW, especially ones that are now close to or over 20 years old, is service records.
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Jun 20, 2008 21:15
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Generally the more complex the BMW the less reliable it will be. Ergo, the E21 and E30 3-series are almost rock solid, E36s are still reliable but have their faults, E46s are as reliable as E36s with the exception of a few electrical components, and I have no idea about E90s. This also works as a general rule by saying that the 3 series will be more reliable when compared to similar year 5, 6, 7 and 8 series cars. That's great info thanks. What about mileage on used BMW's? What's the green zone to look for?
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Jun 20, 2008 21:59
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Swap_File posted:
A couple of things to add to that list: the front brake calipers/rotors from the 325 will bolt up to the knuckles on the Ti, and allow you the luxury of vented front rotors, which you will most definately need once you get an extra 100+ more ft/lbs of torque under the hood. Also, you'll need most of that fuel evap gear to avoid that code on your Ti, as it all varies by year and is rather specific. The rear section of the exhaust will simply not fit well, no matter how much you hack up the tubes, as the rear can itself is simply too long for the under body of the car, so the tips will stick out a good 3" even if you mount it as far forward as possible... and the bumper is only cut for a single tip, which may or may not be an issue for you if you don't mind the "hot butter knife" look. It's pretty easy to modify the front section to fit, to retain the cats, so maybe just shoot for something custom from the cats back. I'm running a single pipe from the collectors on back with an aftermarket cat, ending in a single tip to keep the stock-ish look. Do you have to worry about emissions? Also, I'm sure you already know about the difference between the rear suspension setups between the Ti and the other E36s...
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Jun 20, 2008 22:52
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ethanol posted:That's great info thanks. What about mileage on used BMW's? What's the green zone to look for? Within reason, some people regard mileage as a secondary concern to service records. Most BMW's can still be running great at high mileage if properly maintained. There's also some common failure parts which should be replaced at various intervals as preventative maintenance, notably water pumps, radiators and suspension bushings. I believe it's something like 60k for the water pump and 80-100k for the radiator on the e36 & e46. I'd try and find something that's either had these items replaced already, or won't be needing them in the immediate future.
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Jun 20, 2008 22:57
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