|
ethanol posted:You're telling me I need to upgrade my axle to put on 33" tires? Sounds a little extreme. I'm talking a 1997 Wrangler 4.0L here. Depends entirely on what axle you have, what gear ratio, and what condition it is in. Having shattered one D35 already, I can tell you they like eating gears
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 16:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:34 |
|
|
Which jeeps pre-rubicon had the D44?
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 16:20
|
|
|
ethanol posted:Which jeeps pre-rubicon had the D44? Wranglers and the CJ7 I believe, but I believe there were still earlier model Wranglers with D35s on them. If you have a late model Wrangler or Rubicon, chances are its D44s
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 16:22
|
|
|
Well since the chances are good I'll end up with a d35, I guess I'll just have to settle with 32" tires.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 16:42
|
|
|
ethanol posted:Well since the chances are good I'll end up with a d35, I guess I'll just have to settle with 32" tires.  That is what a D35 pumpkin looks like  That is a D44 pumpkin, just go take a peek under your Jeep and you should be able to tell
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 16:56
|
|
|
I haven't bought the thing yet, but it seems like most 97 sport or Saharas (my price range) came with D35s. How hard would it be to bolt in a D44 when I find a deal on one?
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:03
|
|
|
ethanol posted:I haven't bought the thing yet, but it seems like most 97 sport or Saharas (my price range) came with D35s. Very easy to do for the rear, the front is a little more interesting. Also, you must make sure you get matching geared axles. Other than that, its a drop in installation pretty much.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:09
|
|
|
You CAN get by with a D35 with 33s. That seems to be as big as most folks are willing to go without an upgrade. You're gonna have no power on the highway though. And you still may have to replace the axle anyway, the D35 doesnt get its reputation out of nowhere.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:23
|
|
|
Godholio posted:You CAN get by with a D35 with 33s. That seems to be as big as most folks are willing to go without an upgrade. Ive heard the D35s in the JKs are almost (or just as) as strong as the older D44(incresed spline strength). Anyone confirm/deny?? edit: D30s not D35s. I am a moron. Tacos Al Pastor fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jul 1, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:32
|
|
|
spiralbrain posted:Ive heard the D35s in the JKs are almost (or just as) as strong as the older D44(incresed spline strength). Anyone confirm/deny?? They may have upgraded the design a bit, I have not seen the new ones
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:37
|
|
|
Seems like most jeep sellers are pretty ignorant about their axles.. what are my chances of finding a 1997-1999 with a D44 for the same price as a D35? I guess I could just keep looking till I find one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:38
|
|
|
Godholio posted:You CAN get by with a D35 with 33s. That seems to be as big as most folks are willing to go without an upgrade. I am rocking a d35 with 33" tires. But that is how I bought it and am well aware of the weakness. Just don't go throttle crazy and you will be fine. I also do fine on the highway. As long as you change your gear ratio you will be good. Also if you do have a d35 I recommend watching youtube videos of busted ones for an example of what not to do.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:38
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:Just don't go throttle crazy and you will be fine. Yeah, some people forget they are driving a Jeep and not a Ferrari
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 17:45
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:They may have upgraded the design a bit, I have not seen the new ones Its definitely a bigger axle. It wouldnt suprise me if this rumor is true.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 18:24
|
|
|
spiralbrain posted:Its definitely a bigger axle. It wouldnt suprise me if this rumor is true. Must've added more space for oil cooling and upgrading the wheel bearings a bit. Does the pumpkin look any bigger is a good question, adding most space for stronger rack and pinions
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 18:26
|
|
|
I'll see if I can find the pic of the TJ that had the drivers side wheel shoot out of the rear axle while driving around a corner in a residential area. While I'm looking here is a D35 uh oh.  8.8 vs D35 
Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jul 1, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 20:28
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:Well, changing the transfer case chain has turned into a big failure. There is one bolt that I just can't get to budge to get the case apart. I'll need to drop the case, and I just can't do that right now. So I gotta put back together what I had apart and save the job for when I have some better tools and a proper place to do it. Try heating the bolt? I had to do a t-case replacement on the field on my truck, wound up catching a ride to home depot and picked up a hand torch [I think I had mapp gas] and just heated the suckers up then pulled them up. It's easier when you drop the whole t-case, it's worth spending the extra half hour/hour to mount/unmount it so you can see things better and work easier.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 21:10
|
|
|
Tossed_Salad_Man posted:While I'm looking here is a D35 uh oh. Oh god now I am scared to even touch a trail 
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 21:15
|
|
|
Well, I guess I'm going to be poking my head under a lot of cheap tjs till I find a D44!
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 21:38
|
|
|
BigKOfJustice posted:Try heating the bolt? I had to do a t-case replacement on the field on my truck, wound up catching a ride to home depot and picked up a hand torch [I think I had mapp gas] and just heated the suckers up then pulled them up. There isn't any room in there, that's the real problem. The only thing that will physically fit is a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/16" socket. I can't even fit my box-end wrench over the bolt, the ring is too thick to go between the bolt and case. The head on the bolt is too short and my socket keeps slipping off. For some reason that bolt head is different from all the others. And the vacuum diaphragm that locks the center diff is in the way to get an extension to use a bigger ratchet. It's just a big mess. I have all the seals and gaskets I need to rebuild it, so in a couple months (after I graduate) I'll pull the whole thing and do it all proper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 22:24
|
|
|
Tossed_Salad_Man posted:While I'm looking here is a D35 uh oh.  .
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 23:45
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:There isn't any room in there, that's the real problem. The only thing that will physically fit is a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/16" socket. I can't even fit my box-end wrench over the bolt, the ring is too thick to go between the bolt and case. The head on the bolt is too short and my socket keeps slipping off. For some reason that bolt head is different from all the others. And the vacuum diaphragm that locks the center diff is in the way to get an extension to use a bigger ratchet. It's just a big mess. The bolt is a reverse torx I THINK. And it's really long. Hmm it might not even be a reverse torx. When I had my transfercase out I had to take it out with a vice grip. Edit: You can see it circled here: 
MrZig fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jul 1, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 23:52
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:I am rocking a d35 with 33" tires. But that is how I bought it and am well aware of the weakness. Just don't go throttle crazy and you will be fine. I also do fine on the highway. As long as you change your gear ratio you will be good. Also if you do have a d35 I recommend watching youtube videos of busted ones for an example of what not to do. If you're willing to go through the hassle of changing gears, why not just change the axle while you're at it? Chances are when you DO upgrade the axle you'll have to change those gears too. That's how I look at it, anyway. Just waiting for a cheap set of axles to show up on craigslist...
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2008 23:54
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:There isn't any room in there, that's the real problem. The only thing that will physically fit is a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/16" socket. I can't even fit my box-end wrench over the bolt, the ring is too thick to go between the bolt and case. The head on the bolt is too short and my socket keeps slipping off. For some reason that bolt head is different from all the others. And the vacuum diaphragm that locks the center diff is in the way to get an extension to use a bigger ratchet. It's just a big mess. Screw the socket crap, get one of these [ratchet wrench/t-handle]:  They're part of the OEM tool kit for servicing transfer cases and getting access to bolts in hard to reach places. I had one on my hummer tool kit for ripping out t-cases, an AM General tech showed me a trick using those to pull out the rear brake calipers on a hmmwv, allow me to swap pads in about 5 minutes with just 2 bolts on that tool, instead of taking everything apart and bleeding the brakes again. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tool...re=snapon-store The one I picked up ran about 70$ from Snapon. They're not listing prices on the website for whatever reason. It's a must have tool for anyone who works on drivetrains. It's a real time saver.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 00:38
|
|
|
MrZig posted:The bolt is a reverse torx I THINK. And it's really long. Hmm it might not even be a reverse torx. When I had my transfercase out I had to take it out with a vice grip. Is that a 242? I have a BW1339. And the bolt I'm working on is definitely hex. As far as I know all the bolts holding the halves of the case together should be the same. For some reason this one is a bit different. Maybe whoever was in here last buggered it up. BigKOfJustice posted:Screw the socket crap, get one of these [ratchet wrench/t-handle]: That looks pretty cool but I don't think it'll help me. Only the thin walls of a socket will work. The bad part is I think I can fit a breaker bar somewhere for every other bolt. They just ran out of space for this one. Salami Surgeon fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jul 2, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 01:41
|
|
|
Well, my civic auction just ended on ebay with a final bid of $9,500 so if all goes well with the buyer, I'll be buying my wrangler soon!
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 02:50
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:
...well I guess you can put an extension bar on it with a socket  , I thought you were talking about dropping it, not splitting it while mounting. My bad  I think the best option is dropping it out when you get time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 02:56
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:Is that a 242? I have a BW1339. And the bolt I'm working on is definitely hex. Oh, sorry my bad. I thought you had the typical 231/242. In that case, I dunno. Edit: Oh and yeah it was a 242 - read the label? MrZig fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Jul 2, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 03:48
|
|
|
NeerWas fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Aug 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 03:53
|
|
|
Are you not taking the transfercase out of the jeep to do this? It's stupidly easy to do, and it'll make it a lot easier to put it back together that way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 04:18
|
|
|
Sindow posted:What year was it? I'm thinking about selling my Accord so I can get a Wrangler before winter.. 2004 with 91,000 miles. It's in impeccable shape though and has a $1700 sound system.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 04:22
|
|
|
NeerWas fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Aug 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 04:39
|
|
|
MrZig posted:Oh, sorry my bad. I thought you had the typical 231/242. In that case, I dunno. Haha, reading the label would have been the smart thing to do. That's not an FSJ case, and the only other full time case used in Jeeps that I know of is the 242. Jack_Handey posted:Are you not taking the transfercase out of the jeep to do this? It's stupidly easy to do, and it'll make it a lot easier to put it back together that way. I don't have a proper jack or the guns to move this thing around on my own. It's pretty pathetic. Apparently it's easy to smash a seal between the transfer case and transmission and ruin all the work. I need another pair of hands that are scarce in the summer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 04:52
|
|
|
Hey Jeep buddies. Looking at picking this beauty up in the next couple of days, assuming my mechanic gives it the go ahead.  It's a 2001 Sport with 77,600 miles on it. I would be the third owner. Title checks clear and I'm thinking of pulling the trigger in the next day or so. I've got the dealer down to $11,000, and will try for less. The Jeep has both a hard and soft top, and looks to be in great shape. However, I am not knowledgable at all about mechanics, and I was hoping for a little advice: The dealer has told me that the Jeep's swaybars are being replaced, and that is why the vehicle is not yet ready for sale. From the reasearch I've done, I've read a lot about swaybars in Wranglers, but I just would appreciate some expert opinion: is this something I should be concerned about, do you think it indicates anything about the treatment of the vehicle by its former owner, etc. Also, I'd like to eventually take this guy out and do a littl off-roading. How much can I expect to spend to get started? From what I've read, taking a Wrangler out stock isn't the greatest idea in the world. Thanks for any help or advice!
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 09:38
|
|
|
MrZig posted:The bolt is a reverse torx I THINK. And it's really long. Hmm it might not even be a reverse torx. When I had my transfercase out I had to take it out with a vice grip. Could just be a 12point bolt. like this one  Have you tried attacking it with a 12 point socket?. Some saab head bolts are the same.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 10:12
|
|
|
Qweezy posted:From what I've read, taking a Wrangler out stock isn't the greatest idea in the world. The Wrangler is currently the most factory off-road capable vehicle produced, and one of the most factory capable off-road vehicles ever produced. To be perfectly honest, the capabilities of the vehicle will far exceed your own capabilities, unless you are a top-notch offroader, or you want to do something that requires specialization, such as serious rock-crawling. I know it rubs against the grain to say it, but a lot of the modifications made by off-roaders are not necessary for the type of off-roading they do. The reason they do it is because they don't have the skills to use the vehicle to its potential and get themselves stuck in situations that would have easily been avoided by a better understand of what to do. I know many of the guys have a gun-ho style, and while there is a time and place that is needed to get through, most of the time, slow and steady is the key. To give some insight; my father and his friend use to go rock-hunting through some of the roughest terrain out in Anza-Borrego and Death valley, in a combination of nearly stock CJX's (they had several over the years) and VW campers and bugs (the campers and bugs got wider tires; combined with a light weight, makes them great sand and muck cruisers).
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 10:36
|
|
|
Absolutely take it off-road! Just watch your ground clearance, and dont try to ford the Mississippi River and you'll be just fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 13:26
|
|
|
Heres the thing about most 4x4s. People get a new 4wd and think, I can go ANYWHERE. The way most 4wd works is the wheel with traction does not turn, the loose/free wheel is the one spinning. Most 4wd is not ALL 4 wheels turning. If you are not careful you will wind up with 2 wheels not turning and 2 wheels spinning like mad, kicking up mud or air depending on how you are stuck. ASK ME HOW I KNOW. Keep this in mind and you should be okay 90% of the time. As for the sway bars to get max articulation you would want to look into sway bar disconnects, which range from 75 to 500 dollars depending on how much you wanna spend and how adjustable you want them, if at all. I can't imagine the sway bar needing to be replaced, maybe the mounts/bushings, or it could have been turned in with out one, since some jeep people toss the sway bars all together. http://www.quadratec.com/products/product_search.php?cv=200&cn=Sway+Bar&c=127&pg=1 Larger tires are put on to allow the tire to roll over larger obstacles instead of wedging into or against them, and bigger is usually wider so you get more flotation. **** That jeep looks pretty good. If you think you'll wanna do some offroading those side steps will grab every rock, tree, and baby on the trail. The front bumper plastic insert things on the ends will probably wind up bashed in/off. The dealer tag on front will eventually wind up pushed under the front bumper. (if you didn't remove it as soon as you got home) Go look at where it was parked. look for oil drips. Coming from a dealer they probably brake cleaner spray the poo poo out of it, so if there are no drops, look underneath, where the engine meets the transmission. Look for fresh oil there. 4.0s eventually leak oil from the rear main seal. MAYBE the dealer fixed it. Hell, ask about the rear main seal. As for me 11k seems a bit high. But it is coming from a dealer, so you might have better chances if you find some part has poo poo the bed. If you check the assorted jeep forums you could find a better deal on one with mild to loving insane "mods". Also check Car Max. Also I'm cheap. But I've sen some pretty nice TJs for around 7-9k that would come with a lot of the poo poo I would wind up putting on one anyway. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=902935 Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jul 2, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 14:58
|
|
|
Qweezy posted:From what I've read, taking a Wrangler out stock isn't the greatest idea in the world. LIES! Seriously, like someone else mentioned, the Jeep is THE most off road capable vehicle that comes right off the production line. The only thing that comes close is the FJ. I took mine up a trail I probably shouldn't have when I first got it. It was way back in the hills and through a seriously wicked rock garden. Keep in mind that mine is a stock X. It handled it like it wasn't even really a problem. At one point I had the rear right tire off the ground!! I like to compare it to going out and mountain biking (because the two sports share some similarities). Know the vehicles limits, know your limits and you should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 18:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:34 |
|
|
spiralbrain posted:LIES! quote:I like to compare it to going out and mountain biking (because the two sports share some similarities). Know the vehicles limits, know your limits and you should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2008 18:40
|
|