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I think those are Renix valve covers.
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Jul 9, 2008 05:49
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A couple issues ('01 XJ): 1) In 2005 I installed a pair of Hella 55w driving lights on the front bumper of my Cherokee, wiring them into the headlight switch with a $10 AutoZone toggle where the factory fog switch would have gone. (Basically the recommended Hella wiring [PDF], except not exclusive to highbeams). They worked fine for several months until said switch shat out, taking with it my interior and tail lights. Subsequent attempts to get things back up and going (including by a 30-year DCX tech) have resulted in the fuse blowing within a few minutes.  gently caress that, I've been driving-lightless for 20 months in the darkest nether-regions of nowhere.How the do I wire these lights on their own circuit? I want it independent of everything else, no more bullshit, in such a way that won't toast my Jeep. Electricity is somewhat of a mystery to me. 2) What mufflers exist that are slightly louder and throatier than stock, but not obnoxious and/or loud under reasonable load? An errant rock accelerated the oxidation through my muffler. I'll probably have something 2.5" built from the muffler back and would like something with more bark, but I don't want a TRIP OUT THA FLOWMASTAS exhaust (despite this being eastern TN, where every other truck is a quad-exhaust chrome-and-camo Silverado Z71 with Earnhardt/Jesus/Forrest '08 stickers driven by a 15-year-old). Going with a catback seems tricky since my XJ is an '01 and the models that fit properly are limited ("guaranteed for '84-'01" can bite me). SNiPER_Magnum posted:I think those are Renix valve covers. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jul 9, 2008 |
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Jul 9, 2008 06:45
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:check near the bottom rear of the engine and transmission for oil leaks/drips. if you see drips the rear main needs to be replaced.
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Jul 9, 2008 09:14
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Bear with me while I ask my stupid jeep question. About six months ago I replaced the rear tires on my 88 Cherokee as they were much more worn than the front, which looked ok, I hardly ever use 4wd so I figured it would be ok. Now I'm thinking I should replace the front tires, because they are looking worn and I might want to use 4wd. My question is this, in normal driving, when the car is driven by the rear wheels, do the rear or front tires wear faster? Should I simply put new tires on the front or should I move the six month old tires from the rear to the font and put the new ones on the rear?
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Jul 9, 2008 09:26
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Move the tires to the front and put new tires on the rear would be my opinionated suggestion. Rear tires keep you going the direction you want to go in.
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Jul 9, 2008 09:36
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I know someone was looking for a flatty. I think this is still for sale. I'd be all over it, but I'm not buying any more cars for a while. http://denver.craigslist.org/car/742130869.html $750 Cj3a in Good Shape (running, rust free?)
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Jul 9, 2008 14:38
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So I testdrove the jeep yesterday at a dealership. What I didn't know is that it would be a 2000 Sahara with 35" monsters and a 5" lift. It was loving huge. Anyways, it was pretty amazing, I was pleasantly surprised at the pretty good turning radius. The ride quality was abysmal. I expected this but it seemed a little TOO abysmal. It definately needed better shocks but I was more concerned about a "wavering" feel to it. It felt like a semi being blown by wind in a hurricane. I know the ride quality in wranglers are less than average but I just don't know how to tell if something is actually wrong. How much wandering do jeeps normally do? By the way, the previous owner had put air lockers in it and regeared it. It was one powerful beast. Edit: When I told the dealer the jeep was too expensive, he begged me to let him bring out a Grand Cherokee. It was pretty comical as they brought out like four salesmen to get me to drive this soccer mom van but I told them politely to go gently caress themselves. (uh no thanks I'm not interested in a V8) ethanol fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jul 9, 2008 |
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Jul 9, 2008 16:43
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I have a lot of drift in my Cherokee, and our old Cherokee had a lot of drift. I've only driven the two, so I can't speak beyond that. (an '00 now and before a '90)
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Jul 9, 2008 17:00
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ethanol posted:So I testdrove the jeep yesterday at a dealership. What I didn't know is that it would be a 2000 Sahara with 35" monsters and a 5" lift. It was loving huge. Well honestly, you'll be getting similar mileage with a lifted 35" tire jeep as you would with a v8. That being said ride quality can depend on a few factors, tires, alignment, springs and shocks. So it may not need "better" shocks. What kind of tires were on it? M/T's? Swampers? I got horrendous ride quality on my hummer, because the previous owner put shocks and springs from an Up-armored HMMWV kit on it. My ragtop weights 6500 lbs but the springs were set up for 10,800 lbs for a fully loaded out truck. Ride quality was rear end on road, but off road it's like a Cadillac. That being said I swapped out the HMMWV M/T tires for BF Goodrich A/T's and the ride quality on pavement increased significantly. The same issues can happen on a jeep if suspension upgrades aren't carefully planned out for it's intended use. What kind of lift kit was on it? With any off road truck, I'd crawl underneath and take a look at all the bump stops, shock mounts, look for any frame damage, etc. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Jul 9, 2008 |
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Jul 9, 2008 17:00
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ethanol posted:I know the ride quality in wranglers are less than average but I just don't know how to tell if something is actually wrong. How much wandering do jeeps normally do?
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Jul 9, 2008 17:02
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BigKOfJustice posted:Well honestly, you'll be getting similar mileage with a lifted 35" tire jeep as you would with a v8. Yes I know 35's would tear the mpg apart which is why I don't want 35s and was surprised when this thing pulled up. It was definitely some suspension coil replacement lift. The shocks looked aftermarket, but they were white and unbranded so I didn't know what they were. The Frame looked fine although there was a gigantic tranny skid plate. EDIT: The previous owner was not a teenager.
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Jul 9, 2008 17:12
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I bought a jeep today! I spotted a 1999 Wrangler Sport with 60,000 miles on craigslist and get a testdrive. I fell in love immediately. The thing is immaculate, flawless paint.. the whole deal. It's a 5 speed manual with AC. 32 inch tires and a small lift kit. Pretty stock overall. It's black and amazing. Interior is flawless, paint is flawless, not a speck of rust. It doesn't have a Dana 44 but I don't care, the jeep is in way way too good condition to pass up for an axle. It was a world of differance from the 2000 sahara I drove last night. It drove so much better... no comparison. Hello fellow jeep owners! P.S. Sorry for the double post, I got sick of waiting for somebody else to bump this.. I waited a few hours.
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Jul 10, 2008 03:31
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ethanol posted:I bought a jeep today! I spotted a 1999 Wrangler Sport with 60,000 miles on craigslist and get a testdrive. I fell in love immediately. The thing is immaculate, flawless paint.. the whole deal. Post some pics 
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Jul 10, 2008 06:43
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Post pics! And how much did you pay?
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Jul 10, 2008 07:20
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I won't have pics until I take delivery when my insurance pops up and the bill of sale goes through.. sorry.  I paid 8 K. The blue book is about that ranging up to $9,500. Edit: Actually looks like KBB ranges from $8,500 to $10,500 private party. I think I did pretty well. ethanol fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Jul 10, 2008 |
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Jul 10, 2008 07:44
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I have some pretty devastating news. I ran the VIN on the new jeep and it popped up as a 4 cylinder. I then checked that this means THREE numbers on the vin were mismarked if the jeep is a 6 cylinder. The probability of this is pretty low and I honestly didn't think to check the badging. My inexperience with jeep 5 speeds didn't help me determine the power of the engine either. So I guess this wonder jeep was too good to be true. 
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Jul 10, 2008 17:07
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ethanol posted:I have some pretty devastating news. I ran the VIN on the new jeep and it popped up as a 4 cylinder. I then checked that this means THREE numbers on the vin were mismarked if the jeep is a 6 cylinder. The probability of this is pretty low and I honestly didn't think to check the badging. My inexperience with jeep 5 speeds didn't help me determine the power of the engine either. The 4 cyl is not a TURD per se. You said it was regeared and had plenty of power so there you go. You may squeeze out better mpg than your 6cyl brethren. Look under the hood, is there a HUGE fan shroud or a small one? If there isn't one, the 4cyl will have space between the radiator and engine to seat a midget family of 4.
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Jul 10, 2008 17:25
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:The 4 cyl is not a TURD per se. You said it was regeared and had plenty of power so there you go. You may squeeze out better mpg than your 6cyl brethren.
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Jul 10, 2008 17:42
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ethanol posted:This one has not be regeared, that was a sahara I drove two days ago. I'll ask the owner the badging on the car and if he says there are no sport badges, I'm just gonna get my deposit and run elsewhere. where are you located? you need to check jeepsunlimited.com jeeps-offroad.com and pirate4x4.com, all of those have listings for TJs for sale, many of which will have some mods, but there are also some that looked drat good and have been well taken care of. Also have you tried carmax.com?
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Jul 10, 2008 19:23
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:where are you located? Phoenix, AZ. Yeah I've been browsing it all. I'll find one eventually, I was just really excited about the mileage on this one.
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Jul 10, 2008 19:34
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ethanol posted:Phoenix, AZ. Yeah I've been browsing it all. I'll find one eventually, I was just really excited about the mileage on this one. How about this one? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/car/748566919.html
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Jul 10, 2008 20:09
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Braincloud posted:How about this one? I emailed that guy a few days ago. My loan wants a 98 or newer with less than 100,000 miles and he had a dana 35 anyways so I didn't pursue.
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Jul 10, 2008 20:15
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ethanol posted:I emailed that guy a few days ago. My loan wants a 98 or newer with less than 100,000 miles and he had a dana 35 anyways so I didn't pursue. Ahh. Quick question - how much and what type of wheeling do you plan on doing? I just ask this because my 99 TJ had the 35 in the back and I ran 31" A/Ts on a 2" lift and had no problems running trails with my friend's in their built rigs. It was mostly due to knowing how to drive and picking the right line but I never once broke an axle.
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Jul 10, 2008 20:20
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Braincloud posted:Ahh. I'm willing to get a d35 if it's in excellent condition but I'd really just like to skip the worry and have a dana 44, you know? I plan on putting 32 to 33" A/Ts on a 3 inch lift.
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Jul 10, 2008 20:23
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ethanol posted:I'm willing to get a d35 if it's in excellent condition but I'd really just like to skip the worry and have a dana 44, you know? I plan on putting 32 to 33" A/Ts on a 3 inch lift. Question: Did the TJs need drivetrain replacments like the JKs if you go over 3 inches on a lift? Is the same problem existant?
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Jul 10, 2008 20:26
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Just did a trail write-up with pics of the new Rubi: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2899151 In case anyone here is interested.
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Jul 10, 2008 22:53
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Braincloud posted:Just did a trail write-up with pics of the new Rubi: Awesome. Mucho love for the Rubi...
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Jul 10, 2008 22:59
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ethanol posted:I emailed that guy a few days ago. My loan wants a 98 or newer with less than 100,000 miles and he had a dana 35 anyways so I didn't pursue. http://www.carmax.com/enUS/view-car...ac-4fede3495e51 BAM
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Jul 10, 2008 23:55
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:http://www.carmax.com/enUS/view-car...ac-4fede3495e51 Uh... $14,000? I can definitely get one with less than 100,000 miles for under 9 K.
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Jul 11, 2008 00:03
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wasn't sure of your range I thought one was 12k earlier.
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Jul 11, 2008 00:18
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:wasn't sure of your range I thought one was 12k earlier. Yeah, I test drove a $12,000 sahara and the dealer knocked it down to $9,000 when I said I wouldn't pay 12k. That sahara sucked though.
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Jul 11, 2008 00:21
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 Click here for the full 1024x768 image. So, how capable offroad is this thing in it's current state? (242 tcase if that matters). I love it dearly, I've done 14,000 miles since april (3 nearly coast to coast trips) with no breakdowns while getting a reasonable 21mpg. Presumably it's fine for nearly anything that can be considered a road, but i'm not sure how well it'll do on a proper trail. Tires are Wrangler RT/S's, which according to tirerack are crap.
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Jul 11, 2008 00:59
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ethanol posted:Yeah, I test drove a $12,000 sahara and the dealer knocked it down to $9,000 when I said I wouldn't pay 12k. That sahara sucked though. Don't worry, the perfect Jeep will show up. Just a matter of time. In other news, my old TJ must have been sold (or sent to auction) because it's been gone from the dealer website for a week now. My condolences to whomever purchased it.
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Jul 11, 2008 01:02
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sanchez posted:
Very much so! It's a larger vehicle than its compatriots, but it'll still get you stuck in places you never imagined possible. And yes, the RT/S is mediocre at best. They were OE on my XJ in 225/75, and dry asphalt often felt like a fresh rain when they still had 80% tread depth. I swapped to 235/75 BFG All Terrain KOs and probably had double the traction in all circumstances. (and I still think the WJ is the prettiest Jeep  )
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Jul 11, 2008 |
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Jul 11, 2008 03:24
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SIDE DRAFT 4.0 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=697805 Pirate makes my pants so wet.
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Jul 11, 2008 04:26
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Suffering a few moments of disappointment from that 2.5 L imposter, I went to see a 2001 sahara which drove terrible. The clutch felt loose, the steering felt loose... it felt like it had been shaken quite a bit. Then I got a call from a guy with a 1999 Wrangler Sport.. I ran over to drive it since I was only a mile away. First thing, I was astonished at the color.. it was a silvery metallic blue. I guess it's called Steel Blue. This is not the jeep, but this is the color.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. So I jumped in it and took it for a ride. It drove awesome and was very cushy (for a jeep). I jumped back out and took a look at the shocks... it has some Ranchos. It has a 2" coil replacement lift and some pretty good looking 32"s. It has ABS which I valiantly sacrificed the dana 44 for... I'll upgrade it later but not in the forseeable future... the lift and tires already look good enough. A/C.. full doors.. sound bar..manual..motion sensing alarm... it's pretty great. Also the guy bought it from another guy he knew and it's been garaged for at least 5 years. Anyways, 84,000 miles so I offered $7,500 and got it. For real this time. Pictures are coming when I take delivery. Post script.. it has one small little quirk and that's a little resistance going into second gear, you've got to make sure you push it far enough... it doesn't feel like the clutch is bad, it shifted quite well, my old pickup had the same problem and I had that thing forevvvver.
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Jul 11, 2008 05:08
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:SIDE DRAFT 4.0 That is about as loving awesome as it could possibly get.
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Jul 11, 2008 05:47
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Finally have the time to paint up the ol XJ this week. Had a picture of the primered version back on page 2 of this thread, but here are the new pics. Specs: 1984 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, Dark Chestnut Metallic Clearcoat (paint code), 2.5L 4 cyl "Hurricane", 4x4, 120K miles on the clock, and best of all -- FREE. Drove it home. The night I got the XJ. Fresh from the carwash. Lots of rust and some jackass undercoated the doors and hood so it trapped in water and REALLY went nutz on the steel..  Another shot of the drivers side. Used a propane torch and putty knife to remove the undercoating. Angle grinder to remove the "scale". Many hours of sanding, grinding and applying phosphoric acid to kill any rust have worked out very well.  Here it is currently in the garage.. I had started painting this side a nice metallic blue clearcoat last fall. But after taking it through the woods many times playing in the snow, the nice shiny paint was HOSED with scratches. I sorta wanted an olive-drab Jeep anyways and this paint should hold up much better than the cheap spray-can stuff I was using..  The drivers side. This is only after 2 coats of very thinned paint on my way to 10 or so. Still have alot of trimming to do around the doors and body joints with a foam brush, but overall it's really turning out excellent. Very smooth and "lusterless". I will wet sand with 400 grit every 3 coats or so and leave the last few coats unsanded. I am not concerened with the rusty rocker panels and I will be welding 2" square tubes there anyway.  Oh.. BTW.. The paint is being applied with a roller and foam brush! Really REALLY turns out nice. Goes on like glass and dries to a nice smooth low luster finish. Recipe I used.. 1 quart Rustoleum Stops Rust Rusty Metal Primer (RED), 1 quart Rustoleum Dark Hunter Green Glossy, 1 quart 100% Mineral Spirits. Mix both quarts of paint in a new empty 1 gallon can. Stir VERY well. Transfer about 1 cups worth to paint pan and thin with 100% mineral spirits to a consistancy of water. Use 4 inch dense foam roller and squeaze out excess paint before rolling. Seriously. One roller full will do about half of the hood with one coat. I figure that the pressure I am rolling it on with will drive the paint deeper into imperfections and such so the protection will be greater. Cool thing is it dries very quickly as the paint is thinned alot. The last coat was applied just before this picture was taken. The paint is curing to a VERY hard finish. And with the high zinc content of the "Stops Rust paint", and it's ability to last a LONG time on outdoor railings, mailboxes and trailers I am sure that it will last on my garaged Jeep.  When done painting, I will black out the remainng chrome and re-tint the windows. Thinking of stencilling on flat-black markings, but I need ideas. Any ideas on markings and where to apply them to make it appear more "official"?
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Jul 11, 2008 05:52
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What grit sand paper do I need to rough up paint to prep for rattle can? What grit to smooth out bondo?
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Jul 11, 2008 16:18
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ethanol posted:Post script.. it has one small little quirk and that's a little resistance going into second gear, you've got to make sure you push it far enough... it doesn't feel like the clutch is bad, it shifted quite well, my old pickup had the same problem and I had that thing forevvvver. Does it have a body lift on it? I remember way back in the day when I had a body lift (puke) on my Toyota it made shifting into 2nd a bit of a chore. I had to trim a bit of the tub around the shifter to allow for full movement, but once I threw the shift boot back on, it would sometimes pull it out of gear. That being said, where are the pictures of your new TJ?!
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Jul 11, 2008 18:47
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