|
BraveUlysses posted:Going to start trans mounts and tranny fluid flush with Redline MTL in an hour or so...any suggestions for a pump that I can make/buy to get the fluid up into the fill hole? I used one from harbor freight that was meant for gallon containers. It worked, but not very well (didn't fit the quart bottles obviously, not much room to use the plunger under the car, and the pickup tube kept falling off into the bottle). They also had this one which I should have got instead.
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2008 22:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 03:39 |
|
|
This thread makes me want to sell my $22500 Saab and pick up a $3000 E36 
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2008 22:56
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:Going to start trans mounts and tranny fluid flush with Redline MTL in an hour or so...any suggestions for a pump that I can make/buy to get the fluid up into the fill hole? A funnel and a 3 foot piece of tubing works for me. You just put the funnel in the engine bay near the firewall on the exhaust side of the engine and snake the tubing down to the fill hole.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2008 23:57
|
|
|
They make several different sizes of pump -- I bought some Valvoline branded fluid pumps at Checker for $5 each. One is for diff fluid, one is for tranny fluid. I just keep them screwed onto the half-empty bottles. They'll fit the 1qt Redline or Royal Purple or whatever that you're putting in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2008 00:43
|
|
|
5 steps to your regular German Paint Washing to shiny results! 1: Wash + dry as normal using your choice of shampoo, I use Zymol 2: Claybar + detailer spray to act as a lube (use the bar in up/down motions not circular motions as I found this works best) 3: Rinse car thoroughly then dry again 4: Apply Autoglym Super Resin Polish and leave 30mins and buff off 5: Apply Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection and leave 30mins then buff off My car is Silver so is harder to get reflections off than other colours so you can imagine what a black or blue one would look like!   Well worth a few hours hard work for a few months of paint gloss protection. mrk fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jul 14, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2008 01:48
|
|
|
So I have a question (BMW-ish related). Due to the factory camber on the rear my M-coupe, my rear tires wear extremely unevenly. I'm talking I'm starting to see the belt on the inside while the outside of the tires appear to be drat near 100%. there wouldn't happen to be a tire that has a harder interior compound and softer exterior compound, would there? If not, any recommendations on a new set of rear tires in the sub $350/pair range?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2008 03:42
|
|
|
Noeland posted:So I have a question (BMW-ish related). Have you had the car aligned recently? Have you modified the suspension in anyway? Camber alone will not chew a tire up, but excessive toe will. As for tires, I would just go ahead and replace all four if you can afford it and get a good alignment. As for recommendations, go to tirerack.com and look at their high performance summer tires and see which one will fit your budget.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2008 03:46
|
|
|
Noeland posted:So I have a question (BMW-ish related). That sounds pretty normal for wide rear tires with that much stock camber. Get a tread depth guage and check. On my M3, I would typically wear the innermost tread groove down to 2/32" with 4 or 5/32" left on the outermost. That's just one of the M taxes, I'm afraid.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2008 12:04
|
|
|
SlapActionJackson posted:That sounds pretty normal for wide rear tires with that much stock camber. Get a tread depth guage and check. On my M3, I would typically wear the innermost tread groove down to 2/32" with 4 or 5/32" left on the outermost. I get the same effect on the sport suspension on my 330Ci. Pulling up the alignment spec shows 2 degrees of rear camber.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2008 06:16
|
|
|
Anyone know of a decent write up for replacing the rear bearings and hubs on an E36 and what parts I need to order? Mine are howling like crazy and while I love my mechanic, I don't love him enough to give him $1100 to replace some wheel bearings.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2008 17:27
|
|
|
Doctor Grape Ape posted:I was looking into this recently too, as I spent an hour driving back from Cocoa beach doing 80 with lovely headlights. Kind of unnerving. From what I gather, the Depo or Apexcone Ellipsoid lights are the best bang for the buck, with around 4500-5000K looking OEM. For around $250 or so you can get the housing and the bulbs. DDM does Apexcones for $99 and Depos for $149, with HID. They're pretty honest about the quality you get for that price -- the Depos are not servicable and pretty brittle, but have slightly better lenses than the Apexcones, which have replaceable lenses and are... well, cheap. ZKW's can be had for around $250 or less these days, and the OEM German stuff from Hella will set you back a ton, when you can find them, but are magnificent in comparison to other non-OE options.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2008 18:10
|
|
|
snugglz posted:DDM does Apexcones for $99 and Depos for $149, with HID. They're pretty honest about the quality you get for that price -- the Depos are not servicable and pretty brittle, but have slightly better lenses than the Apexcones, which have replaceable lenses and are... well, cheap. ZKW's can be had for around $250 or less these days, and the OEM German stuff from Hella will set you back a ton, when you can find them, but are magnificent in comparison to other non-OE options. I actually made a thread on BF.C about this, and shockingly, got intelligent replies. Where can you find ZKWs for $250? Best I could find was almost $400. The Hella OE Xenon set costs $1,300. Bosch, some Hella, ZKW, DEPO, and Apexcone are made for halogen bulbs, not HIDs. Without modification, you will blind oncoming traffic, or have to aim the headlights lower than they should be (which kind of kills the output). Apparently, the best bang for one's bang is the get a DEPO set, and retrofit it with OEM projectors, ballasts, et al from an Acura TSX for single Xenon or from an Infinity FX35 for bi-Xenon. This would run about $500 + DIY labor, and the difference is amazingly noticeable and looks better than even the OE Hella kit. Have a look in the BF.C link that I posted, those guys are knowledgeable. I will be doing the retrofit when I have time, and can throw up a DIY if anyone is interested. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jul 15, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2008 18:35
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:lighting info drat, good info in that thread... a common problem of threads like that on BFC is the supporting vendors "chiming in" with their products, which turns into a pissing match real quick. My bad on checking the ZKW pricing -- apparently "each" is not "pair"... whoops. I hate the USDM lights too, but as my BMW isn't really daily driven, it's really been on the back burner for me in terms of mods... I'd love to see your results on the Depo/TSX retrofit. frozenphil posted:Anyone know of a decent write up for replacing the rear bearings and hubs on an E36 and what parts I need to order? There's a pretty good write up in the Bentely manual, if you have that. There are PDFs of it meandering about the internet, but it's well worth the $60. snugglz fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jul 15, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2008 19:35
|
|
|
snugglz: It was actually very funny. The two guys giving me good advice (I'm Marc) both AIM messaged me at the EXACT same time to say not to listen to habbie (the bavtoys.com vendor). I'll be sure to keep you guys posted, but I have an audio install to finish first. e: This is themadrussian's car, which I think looks pretty great (except I'm not a fan of clear corners/tails/markers). He said the DEPOs are better for a retrofit because the ZKWs that he used don't have a shroud around the low beam, although personally I think it still looks okay. I may go with the ZKWs anyway, because the glass has less writing on it, and the high beam reflector is slightly better. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 15, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2008 19:48
|
|
|
I'm not sure if this is bad form are not, so please tell, but I am parting out a '95 M3 if anyone needs anything. Vaders are gone but most of the stuff is still there, plus some AA goodies. I'd love to see a goon plop my S50 in an E30
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 08:26
|
|
|
Hammer Floyd posted:Hey guys, apologies if this isn't the right thread, but I figured that a BMW megathread would be the place to ask about a certain BMW. Re-posting because I haven't had an answer yet due to people loving the (admittedly gorgeous) new 7 Series. Is there a website I can go to which has this sort of information on it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 10:29
|
|
|
Mr. Toast posted:I'm not sure if this is bad form are not, so please tell, but I am parting out a '95 M3 if anyone needs anything. Vaders are gone but most of the stuff is still there, plus some AA goodies. I'd love to see a goon plop my S50 in an E30 poo poo I would love to throw that into my E30, but it's my DD and I can't afford to have it on blocks for 3 weeks 
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 12:42
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:poo poo With proper planning it shouldn't take more than a weekend  .
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 13:12
|
|
|
Mr. Toast posted:I'm not sure if this is bad form are not, so please tell, but I am parting out a '95 M3 if anyone needs anything. Vaders are gone but most of the stuff is still there, plus some AA goodies. I'd love to see a goon plop my S50 in an E30 drat, if only your S50 was like.. $200..
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 13:58
|
|
|
Mr. Toast posted:I'm not sure if this is bad form are not, so please tell, but I am parting out a '95 M3 if anyone needs anything. Vaders are gone but most of the stuff is still there, plus some AA goodies. I'd love to see a goon plop my S50 in an E30 PM'ed you. I've got a laundry list of things I need for my M52/E30 swap.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 14:40
|
|
|
Mr. Toast posted:I'm not sure if this is bad form are not, so please tell, but I am parting out a '95 M3 if anyone needs anything. Vaders are gone but most of the stuff is still there, plus some AA goodies. I'd love to see a goon plop my S50 in an E30 How bad is the front end? I've got a wrecked '95 in my carport, pleading for a new bumper with sad drooping eyes every time I come home. Depending on where you are, I can either pickup or arrange shipping... Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jul 17, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 18:12
|
|
|
I'm really sorry if this has been asked before, but something that has been nagging me about my 330Ci is that when shifting, especially from 1st to 2nd, it might take a couple tries to get the shifter to go into gear. I'm not really sure how to explain it any better than that unfortunately. As I go from 1st to 2nd it just sort of stops half way. Like it leaves first, goes past neutral and then just gets stuck going to second. I've made sure that the clutch is all the way in, etc etc. It's a 2004 330Ci w/ ZHP. 6-Speed Manual.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 18:35
|
|
|
Luk3 posted:I'm really sorry if this has been asked before, but something that has been nagging me about my 330Ci is that when shifting, especially from 1st to 2nd, it might take a couple tries to get the shifter to go into gear. I'm not really sure how to explain it any better than that unfortunately. As I go from 1st to 2nd it just sort of stops half way. Like it leaves first, goes past neutral and then just gets stuck going to second. I've made sure that the clutch is all the way in, etc etc. It would sound like worn synchros if you car was much, much older. Does the problem exist when downshifting from 3 -> 2? Any grinding noises, crunchy feedback, etc? You might try swapping the tranny fluid with a reputable synthetic -- the Royal Purple stuff made a notable difference in shift effort in my E36.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 19:09
|
|
|
Luk3 posted:I'm really sorry if this has been asked before, but something that has been nagging me about my 330Ci is that when shifting, especially from 1st to 2nd, it might take a couple tries to get the shifter to go into gear. I'm not really sure how to explain it any better than that unfortunately. As I go from 1st to 2nd it just sort of stops half way. Like it leaves first, goes past neutral and then just gets stuck going to second. I've made sure that the clutch is all the way in, etc etc. I had the same problem with mine. I recently changed the transmission fluid and slightly worryingly, the fill plug was bone dry, and noticably less oil drained out than it took to refill it. The car had 40k miles at the time and no record of the transmission ever having work done on it. I filled it up with redline MTL and the shifting has definitely improved. It does take quite a lot of pressure to put into any gear though, more than on most manual cars I've driven. I'm guessing this is partly due to the short shifter the zhp received. I'd probably just put in the BMW fluid if I did this again (supposedly it needs less babying when cold). I would also look into the clutch delay valve. I'm going to replace mine with a zeckhausen racing modified one. Supposedly this allows the clutch to fully engage/disengage faster and helps you shift more quickly without crunchiness. Taymar fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jul 16, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 19:21
|
|
|
So I'm getting ready to tackle the guibo and center support bearing this weekend (when the parts should get here), so I started to tear the car apart today. Another reason I'm doing this is because I've noticed pools of transmission fluid under my car and traced it back to a failed selector rod seal. I tried to get it out today, but I'm having no luck at all, even with the drive shaft out of the way. I've got a pick set that I've been using to try and get it out of there, but it seems as if the metal part of the seal is seized to the transmission. Anyone have a clue of how to get it out short of dropping the transmission? Edit: I forgot to mention, I pissed off my neighbor by giving my car a few revs with open headers. It sounded spectacular. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 16, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 21:17
|
|
|
Hammer Floyd posted:Re-posting because I haven't had an answer yet due to people loving the (admittedly gorgeous) new 7 Series. Is there a website I can go to which has this sort of information on it? http://www.mz3.net/ has a lot of info on what is common problems with the roadsters/coupes. So far my M coupe hasn't had any of the problems mentioned by the page save for the squeaky glove box, and its got about 135k on the ODO. PS: I love my M coupe, and would recommend a Z3M to anyone, except for a few "bros" I've met.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 22:23
|
|
|
The front bumper was destroyed, sorry
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2008 23:55
|
|
|
I've got an interesting question about my E36... When I bought the car last October, it had a button under the steering column that would start the car if the key wouldn't. Most of the time, the key started the car just fine, so I rarely used it. Now that its gotten hot out, I can start the car in the morning with the key, but every time after that I have to use the button (key to acc position). Sometimes, if I try the key, the starter 'chugs' like its about to start but then stops immediately. Other times the key just does nothing. Im assuming the button was wired in for this reason, but what would the reason be? Faulty ignition? Is there a reason this only happens when its hot out, on a hot engine? I know I should pry the plastic cover off and look at how its wired, but doing that scares me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2008 00:45
|
|
|
If I pull the diff sensor on my E30, will the fluid spill out?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2008 01:00
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:If I pull the diff sensor on my E30, will the fluid spill out? Probably not.  As you can see, the sensor is way above the fill hole. (Drain hole on bottom, Fill hole in the middle, sensor upper right)
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2008 01:58
|
|
|
Swap_File posted:Probably not. You are exactly correct! I just wanted to make sure I didn't start anything I couldn't finish (no diff fluid laying around today...)
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2008 02:13
|
|
|
Doctor Grape Ape posted:So I'm getting ready to tackle the guibo and center support bearing this weekend (when the parts should get here), so I started to tear the car apart today. Another reason I'm doing this is because I've noticed pools of transmission fluid under my car and traced it back to a failed selector rod seal. I tried to get it out today, but I'm having no luck at all, even with the drive shaft out of the way. I've got a pick set that I've been using to try and get it out of there, but it seems as if the metal part of the seal is seized to the transmission. I always have good luck using a pocket screw driver. I can't remember ever having to use a special tool for removing that seal, though I always use the proper drift for installation. Your picks might be too flimsy; take a small flathead screwdriver and position it like so:  It works for me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2008 03:02
|
|
|
Just got back from an event BMW Cleveland held which was supposed to be featuring the M3 and 1 Series but basically ended up being a bunch of Northern Ohio BMWCCA members hanging out bullshitting about our cars, plus a supercharged E46 330i ZHP and a brand new M3 Coupe getting fired up and shown off. Uploading pics and video now, but my connection's sucking at the moment. edit: Videos All photos in no particular order or arrangement And some of my favorites... Lineup of E36 track cars  The lone 8 Series, an 840 which must have been bought fairly recently given how many questions the owner was asking about reliability  E24 635CSi, my E46 325i (I was embarassed when I showed up with the only really dirty car), an E46 M3, and an X3 that no one really cares about.  Another loner, this 2002 that I would not be surprised at all if the owner is a goon.  A good time seemed to be had by all, I got a $20 gift card good for parts, accessories, or even towards a car (lol), and I think I'll be showing up to more CCA events. wolrah fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jul 17, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2008 03:34
|
|
|
Hey got a mechanical question: I've got a 2001 330Ci that I gave a nice curb slap. Anyway, I'm pretty sure the rear upper control arm is tweaked after looking at it yesterday. The first shop I took it to ended up not being trustworthy (told me to quit asking questions, told me the wheel bearing was hosed, ended up being the CV) but they told me it was tweaked and needed replacement. Anyway, I'm going to take it to an alignment shop tomorrow and see if they can get the toe right, but I doubt it. So basically, my question is: Can I replace it myself? The most work I've ever done is plugs/wires on my lexus (disassembly of the intake manifold), so I'm not sure if I have the time, mechanical aptitude, strength, or ability. Any idea whether I'd be wasting my time at this, or should I just source a part and let someone handle it for me?
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 03:04
|
|
|
maxallen posted:Can I replace it myself? The most work I've ever done is plugs/wires on my lexus (disassembly of the intake manifold), so I'm not sure if I have the time, mechanical aptitude, strength, or ability. Any idea whether I'd be wasting my time at this, or should I just source a part and let someone handle it for me? That might be a bit much for you. Replacing the arm isn't too hard, but getting to the bolt that holds it inboard is a PITA that requires removal of many other parts. If you have the Bentley manual, a well stocked garage of tools, a second car to use as a parts/tool fetcher, and a free weekend to kill then have at it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 03:37
|
|
|
Doctor Grape Ape posted:That might be a bit much for you. Replacing the arm isn't too hard, but getting to the bolt that holds it inboard is a PITA that requires removal of many other parts. If you have the Bentley manual, a well stocked garage of tools, a second car to use as a parts/tool fetcher, and a free weekend to kill then have at it. Thanks for the answer. I think that pretty much solves it. I have no manual, a socket/wrench set from work, and i think i'd ring up a nice budget in rented tools from O'Reilly. Not to mention I'm not supposed to do repairs at my apartment complex.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 04:21
|
|
|
wolrah posted:The lone 8 Series, an 840 which must have been bought fairly recently given how many questions the owner was asking about reliability well, he's in for a suprise. I mean its not an 850, but still. 'These things are reliable right?' 'HAHAHAHAHHA come have a seat.'
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 13:31
|
|
|
It looks like I'm picking up a 1997 328IC this week! It has around 130k miles on it, and I don't have major service records. Is there anything I should have done right off the bat? Belts, anything along those lines? Also, will it be a pain to install an aftermarket head unit, or do I just need the right wiring harness for it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 16:06
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:well, he's in for a suprise. Yea, I was laughing to myself as he was talking to one of the mechanics. Someone else who had a 540 chimed in and said what at least half of us were thinking, reliable BMWs have 6 cylinders.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 16:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 03:39 |
|
|
Daddy Fantastic posted:Is there anything I should have done right off the bat? Belts, anything along those lines? Covered several times in this thread and innumerable times elsewhere. Use this, replace everything that sucks: http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=55 I distilled that down to a $1500 list like 1 page ago.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2008 16:21
|
|