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rubbersoul posted:Just curious as a prospective Wrangler owner, what kind of gas mileage do you guys get on road/off road? And have (higher) gas prices affected how often you go wheeling, or do you guys just suck it up and have your fun? There is a big MPG range for Wranglers since the SE models are essentially blocky road cars while a built-out Rubicon approaches 'personal tank' status. Weight, engine size, and effective gear ratio are all over the place for Wranglers. I set up my X model with 3.73 gearing and 32 inch tires and I get 18-20 mpg on the road. That gear/tire setup would be considered weak by hardcore offroad standards but it's plenty fine for running around on the logging trails and snow of northern Wisconsin and since it's my only car I don't want to spend more money getting to work than I make while working there.
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Jul 17, 2008 00:10
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BigKOfJustice posted:Any type of off road vehicle averages around 10-15 mpg. I get well into the 20s in my lifted, 4x4 offroad vehicle.
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Jul 17, 2008 00:13
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Well after sitting for the past several months the Jeep lives again, last time I took it out a horrible noise started coming from the driver's side front wheel, I thought a rock got caught between the rotor and the guard, so limped out of the trail to the parking area, and went to pull the wheel. As I was removing it I noticed LOTS of play, so new wheel hub time. Limped home and parked it, it sat for four months, and finally a weekend with no rain, and I'm in town, so Saturday afternoon out came the beers and the jeep went on the jack stands. While it was up, I checked the passenger and it was almost as bad, with a second wheel hub in hand the replacement proceeded. About half way through the replacment I took a break and went looking for the key. It wasn't in it's usual drawer, it wasn't where'd I'd leave it occasionally in the garage. Went to ask the wife and she had no clue where it was  . Another trip to the parts store for a cheap ignition cylinder and key. Finally got every thing done, the jeep starts, the tires have air, and it's only making the noises I've grown used to for the past 150,000 miles. Sunday comes and it's the reckoning. Went to the local offroad park with a Tacoma, a Vehicross, a H1, a Rubicon and my toy. We found some nice trails to play on, and even with stock wheel sizes on and no lockers it'll get through most of the places everyone else can (, with enough throttle). So here's some pics  VehiCross  My Jeep  H1 flex  My line was a little to aggressive here, according to people watching both fronts were off the ground. It was feeling like it was about to go over, put the clutch in and rolled down the hill and tried a line with less of a vertical end.  needs more ground clearance  Nearly had it on the passenger side trying this section, there is a huge drop in front so I have to go hard right, and there's a ledge on my side to my right, so as I'd slide the jeep over it would drop down and both driver side wheels were air-born for a while till it decided to fall back onto the tires. Of course everyone was too busy dropping jaws to take pics of that and I wasn't going to do that again. So that's a Sunday of wheeling in Houston, first time I've gotten to try out my sliders from SHRockworks and they did the job, I spent alot of time on them and would have a very messed up body without. Next weekend I'm hoping to have a camcorder and get some video of my stupidity.
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Jul 17, 2008 00:50
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First of all, my 4wd lights aren't working - I'll fix that later. I got an Np242 with the full time option, and on the highway if I shift from 2wd into 4x4 Full Time, it'll sometimes stick in part time, and then every 10 seconds or so I'll get a "pop" from the t-case and a jostle in the jeep. I think it's because one of my tires is really low on pressure. Anyways, I took it home and found out that when I put it in full time, even though the lever moves nicely and it sticks in it, it still stays in part time. I hooked up the 4x4 light and it confirms that it's still engaged in part time. Yet if I move the linkage to 4-low and back to full time, it now properly engages full time. So I'm thinking linkage, right? Well it's not that simple. Thing is, if I were to move it back, I wouldn't be able to engage 4-low. 4-low and 2wd are both on the fine line at each ends of the spectrum and it seems that if I adjust the linkage in any way, I either lose 2wd or 4-low. What to do? Take out the center console and grind out the metal shifter gate to allow some more movement with the shifter? The bushings and linkage look fine and there's no real excess play. '89 Cherokee AX15 NP242 by the way.
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Jul 19, 2008 20:59
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LIBERTY on the RUBICON. As for its specs I have no idea but there it is. Articulation needs just a bit of work.
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Jul 20, 2008 14:33
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ablank posted:Well after sitting for the past several months the Jeep lives again, last time I took it out a horrible noise started coming from the driver's side front wheel, I thought a rock got caught between the rotor and the guard, so limped out of the trail to the parking area, and went to pull the wheel. As I was removing it I noticed LOTS of play, so new wheel hub time. Limped home and parked it, it sat for four months, and finally a weekend with no rain, and I'm in town, so Saturday afternoon out came the beers and the jeep went on the jack stands. While it was up, I checked the passenger and it was almost as bad, with a second wheel hub in hand the replacement proceeded. About half way through the replacment I took a break and went looking for the key. It wasn't in it's usual drawer, it wasn't where'd I'd leave it occasionally in the garage. Went to ask the wife and she had no clue where it was Just out of curiousity, how does that vehicross do out on the trails??
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Jul 20, 2008 17:54
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the Vehicross did very well, I was expecting to be winching him all day, but there was only one obstacle he couldn't climb and that was because his approach angle sucks, but everything else, if he got a tire on it, he got up it.
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Jul 21, 2008 15:46
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ablank posted:the Vehicross did very well, I was expecting to be winching him all day, but there was only one obstacle he couldn't climb and that was because his approach angle sucks, but everything else, if he got a tire on it, he got up it. As goofy as it looks, the Vehicross is a real truck underneath. Wiki claims it's based on the Trooper platform, but the size and equipment options point towards a curvy body on an Amigo platform.
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Jul 21, 2008 15:56
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:LIBERTY on the RUBICON. I think I must have missed that obstacle on the Rubicon. Maybe because that obstacle is actually in Moab.
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Jul 21, 2008 21:15
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Maybe some of the JK owners out there can help me with this one. Why is it that Jeep gave me a switch for the ESP but requires me to hold it down for 5 seconds to truly turn it off? What value is there in having the vehicle is 4 high or low and hitting the switch (quickly) and it not being truly off?? Maybe I just dont understand the feature that well.
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Jul 21, 2008 23:42
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Uncle Sam hates your freedom.  That's part of it, anyway. The other part is that ESP turns itself off automatically in low range, and Partial Off (press and release) won't get in your way in high range under most circumstances.
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Jul 22, 2008 01:06
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Because Chrysler makes terrible traction control systems. Theres a code on the JKs to turn it off forever, turning it off normally doesn't really turn it completely off, and the 4hi trick still leaves some elements active. Its only really off in 4lo or when you use the code. I put the code in on mine the 2nd day I had my Rubi and haven't looked back.
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Jul 22, 2008 02:00
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sw0cb posted:Because Chrysler makes terrible traction control systems. Theres a code on the JKs to turn it off forever, turning it off normally doesn't really turn it completely off, and the 4hi trick still leaves some elements active. Its only really off in 4lo or when you use the code. I put the code in on mine the 2nd day I had my Rubi and haven't looked back. Im wondering what these elements are. If it turns off only stability control and not traction control (by pressing and holding the button) what good is turning it off in the first place?? I have felt the stability control kick in if I go too fast around a corner, but now I know where the limit is so its not really like I need it on. And I agree the traction control system sucks.
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Jul 22, 2008 18:11
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I don't remember exactly, I turned the entire system off after the first time i took it off road and it started beeping at me.
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Jul 22, 2008 20:21
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Okay, well I'm looking for a vehicle that sits higher than your typical car and will not get bogged down by the winters we get here. I really like the look of the YJ and I've seen a few around here, the problem is I think I'd be pretty silly to get a YJ as a daily driver. Like I'd definitely be going on trails with it if I got one, but am I being just a pompous rear end for loving the idea of having a really simple/barebones vehicle like a YJ that I can offroad and drive through a foot or 2 of snow. Or should I be looking at something else. Every now and then I see a few YJ's being sold here, manual transmissions, good running inline-sixes, with minimal rust on them for $1500 or so, usually with a hard-top as well. Anyways, just looking for opinions or if I'm totally looking at the wrong thing. Figured this was the best thread to do it.
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Jul 22, 2008 21:30
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ManiacMatt posted:Okay, well I'm looking for a vehicle that sits higher than your typical car and will not get bogged down by the winters we get here. I really like the look of the YJ and I've seen a few around here, the problem is I think I'd be pretty silly to get a YJ as a daily driver. Like I'd definitely be going on trails with it if I got one, but am I being just a pompous rear end for loving the idea of having a really simple/barebones vehicle like a YJ that I can offroad and drive through a foot or 2 of snow. Or should I be looking at something else. Every now and then I see a few YJ's being sold here, manual transmissions, good running inline-sixes, with minimal rust on them for $1500 or so, usually with a hard-top as well. Funny, I was going to post something similar. I'm looking in the $2K range. I have a 1984 Porsche 944 I'm current using as my daily driver but I don't want to beat it up once winter rolls around and I think I should get something now to work out the kinks. I just need something durable, cheap and easy to work on that's good for winter and foul weather; everything I look at keeps bringing me back to late 80's CJ-7 or early 90s Wranglers.
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Jul 22, 2008 21:38
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If you get a YJ that has the carter carb on it, I can't recommend enough dumping all that poo poo. Pull all that poo poo off and while you're at it pull the 4wd vacuum poo poo off as well. Get a motorcraft 2100/2150, do a nutter bypass, upgrade to a TFI or HEI ignition, and replace the vacuum actuated 4wd with a cable actuated system. You have now eliminated nearly 80.334% of the poo poo that gets hosed up on a YJ. I'd also say forget AC. In YJs if it works you get really really cold kneecaps. My old YJ had it and it could freeze water but it kept a square area of about 3 feet cold. If you can find one with a hardtop do that as you can always get a soft top later, cheaper than buying a hardtop for a soft topped vehicle. I love my YJ. It's 20 years old, and the only thing that bothers me about it is that I don't have the money to do everything I want to do to it at once. The paint is faded, the ride is terrible, but something about it makes me like it better than any other model.
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Jul 22, 2008 22:13
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So, I posted instead of replying. woops. I need recommendations on what brand lift kit I should get. I think I want to fit 30 or 33"s on my cherokee, So I'm assuming 3-4.5" of lift. I'm not really sure what to look for in a good lift kit, so any suggestions would be great. Also, I want to use the Cherokee for rock climbing or general trail running.
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Jul 23, 2008 17:29
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markdown posted:So, I posted instead of replying. woops. What's your budget? I'm guessing you may be ok going to a larger tire size but bare in mine you're going to be putting more stress on the drive train but that usually rears it's head when you start putting 35-37"+ inch tires on jeeps and 40"+ tires on bigger trucks.
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Jul 23, 2008 19:05
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markdown posted:So, I posted instead of replying. woops. Do some technical research on the XJ before you attempt anything. A bodylift, mother of god you are brave. Rubicon Express 4.5, old man emu shocks, 32" BFGs, and 4k later.
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Jul 23, 2008 19:40
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Budget is around $1000 or so. I will admit that I have very limited technical knowledge, and the purpose of me buying this car was so that I could do some good, old-fashioned, hands-on-learning. And yeah, I was planning on doing the research first, but I wanted an opinion and a ballpark range so I would know how much money I need to plan to save to do the modifications. Its going to be awhile before I do anything, as my Volvo is in need of some garage time and some TLC
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Jul 23, 2008 19:51
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[Markdown] Head over to jeepforum.com and hit up the Cherokee (XJ) Tech Section and read the FAQs etc. TONS of information on EVERY available lift kit for the XJ and what to expect. You cannot do a body lift on an XJ as there is no frame. 
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Jul 23, 2008 21:03
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Thanks slack3r
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Jul 24, 2008 02:02
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Keys to my jeep: Gone, 100%. Someone must have picked them up after I dropped them in the park at work today. Checked with Chrysler and they said that they could not reproduce keys for a 1990 jeep because it was too old, I guess the information no longer exists. What should I do? 1) Call a locksmith and let him make new keys (one for ignition/doors and one for the glove box) 2) Buy replacement ignition and door locks from a parts store
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Jul 24, 2008 03:07
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Boomerjinks posted:Keys to my jeep: Gone, 100%. Someone must have picked them up after I dropped them in the park at work today. 3) Rig up a pushbutton start that does not require a key, and just cleverly hide the button. It's a soft top, what do you need to lock the doors for anyhow?
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Jul 24, 2008 04:08
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So does anybody remember how I bought that TJ a weeks ago? Well I'm still waiting for their bank to clear the lien and pick it up... I'm loving sick of waiting.
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Jul 24, 2008 06:33
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ethanol posted:So does anybody remember how I bought that TJ a weeks ago? Well I'm still waiting for their bank to clear the lien and pick it up... I'm loving sick of waiting. What? That's stupid. If buying private party, you should always go with the seller to their bank and get all the paperwork done then. Even if their bank doesn't have immediate access to the title, you should still be able to get by with the bill of sale in the interim. I was wondering what happened. Didn't see any pics posted yet!
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Jul 24, 2008 07:20
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I can't find that jeep guy I knew, commiegir. I'll keep looking for his contact info but don't get your hopes up. All I can remember is that he is in dunwoody, and had a ton of jeeps. Anyone know a good place to get a besttop installed in the atlanta area? I need snaps installed and everything, we had to grind them off to get the body repainted.
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Jul 24, 2008 14:15
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Hey Jeep guys. I was going to start a new thread for this question, but I figured it would be kind of annoying for the rest of AI so I'll post it here. Hope that is O.K. with y'all. It's about time I need a new set of tires. Right now I have an extremely aged set of 30x9.5R15 Firestone Firehawk RMTs running on stock height on my 1990 Cherokee 4.0l 2dr. As you might imagine, these tires are slightly large for the truck, and rub a little when the wheel is turned all the way to one side. Honestly, I don't mind the rubbing and have adjusted my driving style to make up for it, but I have become a bit annoyed with its gutlessness at higher speeds (I haven't done any kind of gear adjustment). Thus, I'm thinking about going down a size or two to regain a little bit of "umpf". First of all, what size would you recommend? I have read that 235's are about the same as 30", so would 225's or 215's be better as far as what I'm asking goes? Second, I am looking for a tire that will meet a pretty mixed bag of needs. I live in Colorado and make relatively frequent trips up to the mountains, during the winter and the summer. I need a tire that performs decently in the snow and on fairly minor dirt roads, but doesn't sacrifice a whole lot of on-road performance. Now, it doesn't have to be the quietest, smoothest riding tire in the world - believe me, my truck has enough rattles and shakes for me to have little care for that aspect. I just don't want a swamper or anything silly like that - this is, technically, my daily driver. As a benchmark, the Firehawk RMT is a bit aggressive for what I'm looking to replace it with, but I must admit they have spoiled me, and too much of a downgrade as far as snow/mud performance would not be O.K. with me. A big thank you beforehand to anyone who helps me out. I need to get these tires before Monday. The age of the Firehawks has resulted in two of them developing large bubbles and they have started to rip apart and I need to make a ~250 mile trip next week. I might add that price is definitely a factor, although not the absolute top priority, so please use discretion in this sense in your recommendations.
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Jul 24, 2008 19:08
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Braincloud posted:What? That's stupid. If buying private party, you should always go with the seller to their bank and get all the paperwork done then. Even if their bank doesn't have immediate access to the title, you should still be able to get by with the bill of sale in the interim. I called the bank and they said go pick up the jeep so I'm gonna go do that today.
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Jul 24, 2008 21:26
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Sits on Pilster posted:Tires? 235/75/r15's are more like 28" tires I think. Definitely not 30". You can fit 235's without any rubbing on a stock jeep. If you want the best performance and mileage with stock gears, 225's will be the best bet. And as far as tire recommendations go, I'd say go with BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO. Very good street tire, snow tire, and dirt tire. Not good for mud but it isn't a mud tire. Seems like its what you want. They also have excellent tread wear. Keep in mind that with each inch of tire, you gain 1/2" in ground clearance. So if you go from 30" to 27" you will lose 1.5" of ground clearance.
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Jul 24, 2008 22:16
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235/75/R15 measured out to about 29.3" on my XJ.
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Jul 24, 2008 23:29
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OneOverZero posted:235/75/R15 measured out to about 29.3" on my XJ. According to http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html, a 235/75/R15 is 28.9". So around 29".
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Jul 25, 2008 02:05
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Tire measurements are [width in mm]/[sidewall height as % of width]/[wheel diameter in inches]. So (235*0.75*2)/25.4 + 15 = 28.9" I think I got 235/75/15s on my Explorer, and 225/70/15s (27.4") were stock. What is stock on a Cherokee?
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Jul 25, 2008 02:26
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MrZig posted:235/75/r15's are more like 28" tires I think. Definitely not 30". You can fit 235's without any rubbing on a stock jeep. Thanks for the recommendation(s). I have been wanting a set of BFG All Terrain T/A KO's for a while, but I'm afraid there a bit out of my price range at the moment. Any other suggestions that might be a bit cheaper? I'd like to keep it around $100/piece, especially since I'm going to be having to buy a 5th as a spare to replace the 30x9.5R15 that's my spare right now.
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Jul 25, 2008 05:29
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Tire measurements are [width in mm]/[sidewall height as % of width]/[wheel diameter in inches]. So (235*0.75*2)/25.4 + 15 = 28.9" It varies tire to tire though. It's not going to be exactly 28.9". Cherokees came stock with either 215's or 225's.
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Jul 25, 2008 05:29
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I got my TJ yesterday. It cleaned up well. I have a problem though. I don't know if I may have short circuited something when I was detailing it but when I turn try to turn my fan on now, the blower doesn't work. First it would only work in the 3rd highest setting and then it quit completely... although if I wiggle it, it will turn on. googling told me this might be the blower motor resistor.. I ruled that out however because the fan doesn't work on high.. which doesn't use the resistor. Perhaps the wiring harness or maybe the switch itself has melted? Oh and here's a pic of it:  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. ethanol fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jul 26, 2008 |
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Jul 26, 2008 05:31
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ethanol posted:Fan Stuff It's your blower switch. $30 from the dealer. I had the same problem with my TJ - the fan only worked on level 2 (4 if I wiggled it). The switches have a reputation for going out. Pull your switch cluster and then remove the blower switch. Don't let them tell you you need to buy the whole cluster (I've heard some dealers tell TJ owners this). It's a really simple fix - I did it in the dealer parking lot. BTW, beautiful TJ! Congrats! Now go get it dirty.
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Jul 26, 2008 07:51
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Alright, looking for thoughts on what to do to my '98 TJ to make it pseudo trail-worthy. Unfortunately, it will never really be anything too beastly seeing as its got the I-4 and nothing of value underneath. Currently its running virtually stock, the only additions being a set of Smittybuilt nerf bars and some 30x10.5" tires (I know, too big for stock). Looking at putting a Rubicon Express 2" puck lift on it, sway bar disconnects, and possibly replacing the nerf bars with something that has a little bit higher clearance. Trying to avoid spending an arm and a leg on it, hence the budget moves for articulation. Anybody else have any thoughts?
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Jul 26, 2008 11:44
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I've got a project Jeep that I hope to eventually make off-road worthy. It's a 1982 Cherokee with a '72 360 V8 from a Grand Wagoneer swapped in. There are two major problems: the wiring and the starter. The starter is either not shimmed correctly or, more likely, the flywheel has a dead spot. It will start right up sometimes but other times it will make an awful crunching noise. How do I know which problem it is? If it needs to be shimmed how do I know to what degree? Also, the wiring is a complete mess. The starter is wired to a killswitch which is wired to a pushbutton start. The steering column is not original and I'd like to re-wire it so it's not such a pain in the rear end. Unfortunately, I don't even know where to start as I have little to no experience with wiring. Anyway, here are a few pictures. It's got very little rust. Oh, and is there a way to repair the drivers seat without replacing it?   
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Jul 26, 2008 14:27
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