|
iscariot posted:http://picasaweb.google.com/iscariot/Miata/photo#5106310063591528450 I think I get where it is... but can you get to it without removing the top? Is there an easy way to get to the hole?
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 19:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:42 |
|
|
ChiliMac posted:Yes? but don't expect that to be the only place to flake Yes, it's white.  I think once I get the bits that it's missing (side mirror, and it could stand to have the grille replaced) I'll think about having the paint redone. :|It runs great though!
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 19:50
|
|
|
Okay, I have my own question (for reference I have a '97 C). I've been reading over at miata.net all this week but I'm hesitant to post there due to the "have you done a search yet?" crowd. In any case I have three upcoming potential upgrades: 1) suspension: I want to spend less than ~1k and also have a more or less plug and play system that is mostly for DD and aggressive street driving so I'd like something a bit more firm but compliant enough to deal with Florida roads.Right now I was looking at the Flyin' Miata springs/shocks/sways with the FatCat shockmounts but I'm a bit worried about losing a lot of ride height with this setup. Anyone have any input? Are Illuminas poo poo? 2) turbo: I don't have a price limit but I'm mostly interested in a similarly PnP system--so I'm looking at BEGi right now. I know not everything is listed as required in their build up... I'll need injectors, clutch and fuel pump most likely, anything else? Is a Dyno tune 100% necessary or is there any way to gently caress around with the right software and running on the road? 3) Wheels/tires: I'm looking at the 6ULs but I'm worried that mounting/balancing will be $$$ as well as potentially gently caress up my brand new wheels. I've been considering mounting the tires myself to leave that variable out of it. Or I could balance them myself on a bubble mount--is a dynamic balance really necessary? Also related to #1-- I'd be looking for 225/45/15 tire but I don't want to rub; I expect to get a more aggressive alignment but I'm not sure if that will keep them from rubbing on hard corners. Am I paranoid? These are probably some stupid questions but I'd rather ask than "assume" incorrectly--my research has turned over a lot of answers but not all of them conclusive.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 20:01
|
|
|
GoblinBomb posted:Yes, it's white. The only advice I can offer is: don't try to fix the paint completely, touch it up sure, but if you move to wet sanding you will probably sand through the surrounding paint and you will go nuts (I did).
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 20:04
|
|
|
FluffGrenade posted:I think I get where it is... but can you get to it without removing the top? Is there an easy way to get to the hole? If you put the top up and sit backwards in the seat, you can get your head around the side to see it. I find the best thing to clean them out is to push a long piece of coax cable DOWN them. There is a flapper in the bottom of the drain, be carefull not to pull things up, it can make it stick open. 5 feet of cable will work, get it in there and push, then you can pull it out from the bottom of the car.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 1280x480 image.  Click here for the full 1200x450 image.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 20:05
|
|
|
When you assume, you make an rear end out of u and me. For the suspension, you might want to take a look at Koni Yellows. They're relatively cheap and robust. As for the tire mounting/balancing, what are you? Retarded? If you try to do it yourself, you'll probably gently caress up. You know this. And if you have no problem dropping 150 dollars per corner, what's an extra 20 bucks? If you're thinking about skimping out on just mounting tires, what about alignments that cost 100 dollars a pop?
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 20:06
|
|
|
If your worried about travel why are you getting lowering springs? Whats wrong with the stock springs?
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 20:48
|
|
|
Ziploc posted:If your worried about travel why are you getting lowering springs? Whats wrong with the stock springs? Only the rate--specifically if I go with mounts that increase travel in the rear I will have that to deal with. Other than that, I don't have that much of a problem with it. I've considered keeping the stock springs with some new dampers. I don't care much about lowering, but show me a few higher rate springs that don't advertise lowering and I'll eat my hat. Phone posted:For the suspension, you might want to take a look at Koni Yellows. They're relatively cheap and robust. Koni Yellows are fine, but what spring rates do I go with? Like I said, I'm looking for something I don't need to gently caress around with too much--I don't mind tuning but I'd rather start from a good base. ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jul 26, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 21:14
|
|
|
ChiliMac posted:words words words 3. I got my tires mounted and balanced for $80, I don't see that as terribly unreasonable seeing as they're 15x8's. You won't rub on a stock setup for sure, I think emilio runs something close to 12f/r (distance from hub to fender) and has no clearance issues. I think he might have rolled his fenders. Anyway, you're probably being a bit paranoid but I think I'll wait for Savington to chime in here. For an aggressive, livable street tire you can't go wrong with the Hankook RS2, I'll probably get ~15k out of mine. destructo fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jul 26, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 21:30
|
|
|
destructo posted:You're not really giving us enough information to answer your questions. Assuming you want a low-boost system (the BEGI-S system is a great place to start and is easily upgradeable) everything you need is included (injectors/fuel pump not necessary till you hit 7psi), depending on how you drive you might need a new clutch soon. That said, you have a 1.8 so I believe your clutch is a bit more robust than the 1.6 models. Thanks! This is exactly what I wanted to hear! As far as the power issue goes, I was probably going to jump to a BEGi 3/4 but that's only part of the discussion. One of the major issues is the 15x8 ULs that you mentioned--I know emilio suggests 225/45 which is what I was looking for with Hankook RS-2's but he doesn't have suggestions for alignment WITH a suspension drop of ~1in (springs + mounts). This is the major problem; he will qualify it stock with some extra camber--but if I drop the car a little it doesn't apply. Thanks destructo. late edit: I just saw you mentioned what emilio runs but I don't know if he is using a FCM to increase travel or not. ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jul 27, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2008 21:39
|
|
|
I need a new front passenger side lower control arm, preferably with bushings. The only things I can find are bushings and one new control arm on ebay for and a used one as well. I had to put new control arms on my last miata and got upper and lower for 150 shipped so I know I can find a better deal. So if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2008 19:24
|
|
|
I haven't shopped for Miata parts in a few years, but Parts Group usually were awesome to deal with. Give them a call. http://www.partsgroup.com/
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2008 19:26
|
|
|
Hi guys, I just did the light minder conversion as described in http://www.miata.net/garage/buzzer.html A few days later I noticed that my parking brake light is constantly on. I took the handbrake cover off and checked, it stays on even if I ground the parking brake light connector manually on the chassis. I checked the connector I unplugged earlier under the dash during the light minder conversion, but it is firmly attached. I am not 100% sure the events are correlated, but they might. What else can I check now?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2008 22:34
|
|
|
Chauncey posted:So if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2008 22:58
|
|
|
I'm going to start out with FCM mounts/bump stops and new dampers on stock springs--we'll see how that goes before I consider other suspension upgrades.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 02:14
|
|
|
Mo Hawk posted:Hi guys, I just did the light minder conversion as described in http://www.miata.net/garage/buzzer.html Check your brake fluid level. The reed switch on your brake fluid reservoir could be acting up, that light is a general brake system warning light, indicating low fluid level or ebrake actuation.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 02:29
|
|
|
I accidentally left my parking lights on in my '95 today at work, so I needed a jump to get home. No problem there. For a couple minutes after getting the jump, my car was idling pretty low and rough, like 400-500rpm. The ECU corrected itself pretty quick and it's back to "normal" now, so I'm not too concerned. But is the ECU having to readjust itself so drastically normal? Is it a sign of something that is out of spec? For what it's worth, the car has 78k miles, new plugs, wires, and air filter within the last 4000 miles, and I just changed the oil, seafoamed, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple hundred miles ago. It otherwise is running perfectly. It's probably nothing but I'm kind of a hypochondriac about these things.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 03:19
|
|
|
Guinness posted:I accidentally left my parking lights on in my '95 today at work, so I needed a jump to get home. No problem there. This might have been due to your battery charging and therefore not being able to keep the voltage steady. edit: Why was your battery drained when you just left on the parking lights? A healthy battery should be able to start after leaving the parking lights on for many many hours! Baby Hitler posted:Check your brake fluid level. The reed switch on your brake fluid reservoir could be acting up, that light is a general brake system warning light, indicating low fluid level or ebrake actuation. Thanksl, I will check!
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 03:36
|
|
|
Mo Hawk posted:edit: Why was your battery drained when you just left on the parking lights? A healthy battery should be able to start after leaving the parking lights on for many many hours! It was parked for 10 hours with the parking lights on and the alarm armed. It was just early and I spaced out and forgot to get the lights off all the way. The battery is still original from '95 and hasn't given me any problem so I haven't bothered to replace it. No doubt it doesn't hold the charge it once did, but in the two years I've had the car it hasn't ever had trouble starting or holding a charge.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 03:44
|
|
|
Guinness posted:It was parked for 10 hours with the parking lights on and the alarm armed. It was just early and I spaced out and forgot to get the lights off all the way. The battery is still original from '95 and hasn't given me any problem so I haven't bothered to replace it. No doubt it doesn't hold the charge it once did, but in the two years I've had the car it hasn't ever had trouble starting or holding a charge. My parking lights drained my 97s battery in about 3.5-4 hours two weeks ago. Had the same idle droop on the way home. After I stopped for gas it idled fine. The car has been acting perfectly fine since.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 07:01
|
|
|
I've been looking for a Miata since I sold my Jetta recently. I ran across this one on Craigslist, and the owner says it's still available. It's the Limited Edition, and seems a steal at that price. Problem is, I've been mainly considering an NB due to the increase in power and more modern features. What would you guys recommend?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 07:47
|
|
|
Pants McShirt posted:Problem is, I've been mainly considering an NB due to the increase in power and more modern features. What would you guys recommend?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 08:18
|
|
|
Pants McShirt posted:I've been looking for a Miata since I sold my Jetta recently. I ran across this one on Craigslist, and the owner says it's still available. It's the Limited Edition, and seems a steal at that price. I would say to definitely get an NB, but it all comes down to personal preference. You have to figure out what YOU like better.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 15:55
|
|
|
Pants McShirt posted:Problem is, I've been mainly considering an NB due to the increase in power and more modern features. What would you guys recommend? I'd take a second look if your looking at NBs for more power. They have a better powerband sure. But peak power is almost identical to 94-97 cars. Except NBs require premium. (I don't think early NBs require premium) I've also heard that NBs don't have as much space inside for the driver.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 19:30
|
|
|
Pants McShirt posted:Problem is, I've been mainly considering an NB due to the increase in power and more modern features. What would you guys recommend? Like has been said, it really comes down to personal preference. NBs really don't have much (if any) real power advantage over the 1.8L NA cars, especially since the NBs weigh a touch more. Although the 1993 is still a 1.6L car, so drive it and see what you think. I was in a similar situation to yours when I bought my Miata almost 2 years ago. My price bracket was such that I could either afford a VERY nice NA or a good NB. I wound up in a '95 M-Edition that had extensive records, low miles, and in overall great shape. I drove a couple NBs (a '99 and an '02) and while they may feel just a smidge nicer due to a bit more modernity, they really didn't drive significantly different. Also, I really wasn't much of a fan of the six-speed trans that was in the '02 NB I drove. I don't regret my decision to go with an NA at all. It's all personal preference, really. You can't make a mistake either way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2008 19:44
|
|
|
I'm about to put my new (to me) 1.8l longblock into my 95 and am trying to figure out what to do with the clutch and flywheel. The longblock has 70,000 on it and the clutch and flywheel that come with it do as well. I can get the flywheel resurfaced for free but I'm not sure what type of clutch I should get and from where. The car is stock right now but theres a chance that it could go F/I next year (5-6 psi max). Should I just get a new oem clutch? This seems like a good deal, but I'm kinda tempted to go with a slightly used MSM clutch/flywheel.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 00:32
|
|
|
I bought my 96 with 130k miles and the owner said the clutch had been replaced ~120k. I went supercharged 6psi at 140k. I went 9psi at ~160k. And now I'm at 185k. And I'm pretty sure the clutch was slipping at 6psi. If you're looking at adding boost, you really need to step back and think "Is 6 psi all I'm going to do?" Both of those seem like generic organic clutches. Ceramic clutches are a bit less unstreetable, but they're really not any more expensive than an organic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 04:13
|
|
|
Grab an ACT HD with a street disc from https://www.carolinaclutch.com and never think about your clutch again. The HDs feel like stock and are known to handle 250whp+. Also, you will not be satisfied with 6psi.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 10:36
|
|
|
Savington posted:Grab an ACT HD with a street disc from https://www.carolinaclutch.com and never think about your clutch again. The HDs feel like stock and are known to handle 250whp+. I will also use this advice--do/should you resurface the flywheel while you are at it? (my car is still a bit under 70k) How do you locate someone to do the resurfacing? Edit: can you remove the flywheel and take it somewhere or do they have to do it on the car? I'd rather not pay for labor to drop the transmission. edit2: that is assuming I'm capable of doing it myself which may be questionable 
ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Jul 31, 2008 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 12:33
|
|
|
ChiliMac posted:I will also use this advice--do/should you resurface the flywheel while you are at it? (my car is still a bit under 70k) How do you locate someone to do the resurfacing? Edit: can you remove the flywheel and take it somewhere or do they have to do it on the car? I'd rather not pay for labor to drop the transmission. edit2: that is assuming I'm capable of doing it myself which may be questionable Conventional wisdom is that you should always have a fresh surface when you put a new clutch on. Any transmission or machine shop should be able to do it, and in my area at least (So Cal) some NAPA stores have the facilities as well. It does not need to be on or anywhere near the car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 12:44
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Conventional wisdom is that you should always have a fresh surface when you put a new clutch on. That's what I figured, I was only asking due to the next part: quote:It does not need to be on or anywhere near the car. Great--now if I drop the transmission for the clutch I can take it to be resurfaced separately. Some site I googled mentioned needing to be on the car for centering which seemed almost reasonable but very strange to me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 14:48
|
|
|
Thanks for the input, guys. I'm going to do some more research, and some test drives before I decide. The price gap between used NAs and NBs in Canada is anywhere between $3000 to $10000, so I'm leaning more towards the NA.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 19:49
|
|
|
ChiliMac posted:I will also use this advice--do/should you resurface the flywheel while you are at it? (my car is still a bit under 70k) How do you locate someone to do the resurfacing? Edit: can you remove the flywheel and take it somewhere or do they have to do it on the car? I'd rather not pay for labor to drop the transmission. edit2: that is assuming I'm capable of doing it myself which may be questionable I would also recommend SPEC clutches. Emilio at 949 Racing sells them and they are a good quality product. I personally know some of the people who run SPEC. They may get complaints from people who cant read directions and break in the clutch properly. But for the price (almost $100 cheaper) taking the time to break it in properly is peanuts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2008 23:57
|
|
|
obeyasia posted:I would also recommend SPEC clutches. Emilio at 949 Racing sells them and they are a good quality product. I personally know some of the people who run SPEC. They may get complaints from people who cant read directions and break in the clutch properly. But for the price (almost $100 cheaper) taking the time to break it in properly is peanuts. Go to Miata.net and look up how many people have issues with SPEC clutches. Then look up how many people have issues with ACT clutches. I love Emilio, but I disagree with him on that particular product choice. ACT clutches are loving bombproof, and dropping the transmission is an enormous bitch, so I am not a fan of risking $500 in labor to save $100 on the clutch itself. My ACT has 20k miles on it, 15k of those at 200whp or more, and it still grabs hard enough to chirp 4th gear. It took me 5000 miles to take the stock clutch from "barks 2nd at stock power" to "slips badly on 1-2 shifts", if that's any indication of my driving style (launches, burnouts, very hard shifts, etc). The only time I've ever had trouble with it is when I cocked the clutch disc sideways when I was putting my 6-speed in, and it even re-aligned itself. As far as flywheel resurfacing, yes, it must be done, or you'll risk damaging the brand new clutch. Any automotive machine shop will do it; there's a local shop that charges $40 and has it done in an hour. Savington fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Aug 1, 2008 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 00:54
|
|
|
loving poo poo quote != edit
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 00:56
|
|
|
On another note I just dropped $$$ on the 15x8 6ULs--Now I have to find some tires.  Looking at thetireshoppe for some 225/45 RS2s--is there a better/cheaper source?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 01:12
|
|
|
ChiliMac posted:On another note I just dropped $$$ on the 15x8 6ULs--Now I have to find some tires. Be lucky you can find them at all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 01:18
|
|
|
Savington posted:Be lucky you can find them at all.  I had a "cart" open on thetireshoppe when they were still $74/ea but it wouldn't let me check out for some reason so I cleared the cart and lost that price forever.Tire rack it is.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 01:51
|
|
|
ChiliMac posted:
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 03:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:42 |
|
|
Lesson for today: When you remove Grade 8 bolts from a part, put Grade 8 bolts back in.   So when I installed the big boost pulley, the stock bolts were too short - 15mm long iirc. So I searched high and low but not MSC for grade 8 m6x1.00x20mm bolts with no luck, but Lowe's did have them in standard. Eventually, I forgot about it, and 20,000 miles later I downshift to second at a stoplight, hear a clang. Nothing behind me, light turned green, started down the entrance ramp when I noticed the steering had gone heavy. Then noticed all my idiot lights were on. Pulled over, popped the hood and found the crank pulley in pieces. Trigger wheel was on the road, pulleys had been caught by the sway bar. 2 of the 4 screws came out easy, 3rd one I ended up drilling through my hand, and the 4th I managed to strip with my ez-out, then I couldn't find my torch so I put it on the stove and tried to wedge it out, then I just went ahead and drilled it almost completely out and retapped the thread. I installed 98 cent bolts, but I'll have to hit up MSC sometime soon. Also pictured - part of the fidanza flywheel freshly blanche ground. SHO owners complained about fidanza's being warped from the manufacturer and to have them ground even if they were brand new. Cost $35, and the machinest laying a straight edge across it agreed that it was pretty damned retarded to sell a brand new warped flywheel.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2008 03:48
|
|