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ChiliMac
Apr 13, 2005

That's why I never kiss 'em on the mouth.

destructo posted:

I would suggest you call them, Hankook actually dropships their tires to the customer, I ended up paying ~$380 shipped for mine.

Well the problem is that the price has increased on their site to 98/ea

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Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.
https://www.onlinetires.com has them shipped to my doorstep (in California) for $378.

azzenco
Jan 16, 2004

Slippery Tilde
How slow can you go with the top down before you start to get wet? I was going down the highway when it started to rain so I put the top back up when I found an overpass and was amazed I wasn't wet.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

azzenco posted:

How slow can you go with the top down before you start to get wet? I was going down the highway when it started to rain so I put the top back up when I found an overpass and was amazed I wasn't wet.

Slowest I've gone was about 25mph.

ChiliMac
Apr 13, 2005

That's why I never kiss 'em on the mouth.

Savington posted:

https://www.onlinetires.com has them shipped to my doorstep (in California) for $378.

Hrm.. well I'm in Florida so it comes out more like 420 which is a little cheaper. I already placed an order on tirerack but thanks for the site.

Mo Hawk
Jul 17, 2006
HEADPHONE JACK

azzenco posted:

How slow can you go with the top down before you start to get wet? I was going down the highway when it started to rain so I put the top back up when I found an overpass and was amazed I wasn't wet.

It depends on how hard it rains. I tested it several times and for me and regular rain it works from about 60 mph. For hard rain this might not suffice. At 80 mph the rain won't touch you no matter how hard it pours.
Obviously this depends on how tall you are and if you've got a wind blocker (I do).

GoblinBomb
Sep 19, 2004
Shit happens when you party naked.
The suspension on my 90 is hell of bouncy. I reckon it's probably stock, and simply worn out after 170k miles. What kind of dampers would be a good replacement? Currently I do only street/highway driving, for work, but I'd like them to be good for some autocrossing in a few months when I have some time off from work to try my hand at it. I'm not sure what my budget should be, but I don't want to spend a whole lot. GoMiata.net recommends these on their "new owners" page.

Should I replace the springs as well? Bumpstops? Shock mounts? This will be my first suspension change on any car. I don't know if lowering would be so good, since the PO put on 16" wheels. Which sort of brings me to my next point. Is there any reason at all to have 16-inch wheels on an NA? Or should I can them and look for some 15s?

GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Aug 1, 2008

Slothophile
Jun 23, 2004

Slothophile same as Santa Claus but one small difference: he stop at nothing to kill you.

azzenco posted:

How slow can you go with the top down before you start to get wet? I was going down the highway when it started to rain so I put the top back up when I found an overpass and was amazed I wasn't wet.

It seems to depend on how windy it is but I generally find from around 30-40 mph for light to moderate rain, when it's heavy rain getting blown in different directions you need to be over 60.

That's in an NB with windblocker.

Tai-Pan
Feb 10, 2001
I am getting the S-code errors (flashing airbag light). Since I need to get the car inspected, I gotta fix this.

There have been a lot of mixed reviews of the "replace the capacitors" trick. Anyone here tried it with success?

Luxmore
Jun 5, 2001
I've got a bit of a roof leak issue in my 97 NA. When it's rained for a bit, I get water coming out right here:



It just seems to collect in what I assume is the window drain thing, and gush out from that little gap as soon as I tap the brakes or turn a corner. It happens mostly on the driver's side, but the passenger side has its share too.

Suggestions? I don't think it's a huge deal, but I would like to keep my passengers from being peed on.

Luxmore fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Aug 3, 2008

794613
Oct 7, 2005
I'm looking for replacement fiber board panels for my 1995 NA Miata. I actually pulled the passenger side apart today and made a new one from hard board from Home Depot, but the board was too thick. I really don't want to go through making the attachment holes for the push pins again. I'm replacing mine because the pins are starting to pull out of the board. Do any of you know of a company selling them?

George RR Fartin
Apr 16, 2003




Luxmore posted:

I've got a bit of a roof leak issue in my 97 NA. When it's rained for a bit, I get water coming out right here:



It just seems to collect in what I assume is the window drain thing, and gush out from that little gap as soon as I tap the brakes or turn a corner. It happens mostly on the driver's side, but the passenger side has its share too.

Suggestions? I don't think it's a huge deal, but I would like to keep my passengers from being peed on.

Mine does this too, actually, so a fix would be double-as-good.

bladernr
Oct 3, 2006
I'm not wearing any pants. Film at 11!

Luxmore posted:

I've got a bit of a roof leak issue in my 97 NA. When it's rained for a bit, I get water coming out right here:



It just seems to collect in what I assume is the window drain thing, and gush out from that little gap as soon as I tap the brakes or turn a corner. It happens mostly on the driver's side, but the passenger side has its share too.

Suggestions? I don't think it's a huge deal, but I would like to keep my passengers from being peed on.

Just a suggestion, have you tried tightening the top latches? Over time they loosen and water starts seeping in around the weather stripping where the top meets the windshield frame. Both of my 91s did this when I first got them. On the Red one, I had to replace one of the latches with one that was not worn out. On the BRG, I just tightened them a little bit to snug the top down better and the leaking stopped.

Sit in the car, undo the latch on that side and look at it. You should see what looks like a very long hex nut that has a threaded post going into it. You can turn that with a wrench (or in some cases with just fingers or pliers) to loosen or tighten the top. It's a place to start at least.

The next thing would probably be to replace the weather stripping on the top and along the windshield frame if that does not work.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Can't say I didn't see this coming:

http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/01/the-final-word-no-mazdaspeed-mx-5/

quote:

Speaking with Autoblog, Mazda's PR man Jeremy Barnes made it clear that the automaker has no plans to offer a Mazdaspeed version of the current MX-5. While it was originally assumed that the turbocharged 2.3-liter four-pot found in the Mazdaspeed3 would eventually find its way under the hood of the MX-5, Mazda discovered that the swap wasn't a bolt-in affair. According to Barnes, "It does theoretically fit, until you bolt on the head." A high-pressure fuel pump on the back of the head, driven off the cam, would necessitate a notch in the firewall. As such, converting the engine from a transverse (FWD) to a longitudinal (RWD) layout just wasn't feasible.

Sounds like a bit of a cop out to me. People have been fitting LS1s and other large V8s into Miatas for years, but Mazda themselves are tripped up by such a small roadblock? Oh well, I wasn't holding my breath in the first place. But drat I would have been all over a Miata with the turbo 2.3L DISI.

I guess this just means that my (eventual) next car won't be a Miata.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Seriously? That's the loving copout? Why not plug where the pump would go with a plate and stick a beefier electric one on there?

GoblinBomb
Sep 19, 2004
Shit happens when you party naked.

GoblinBomb posted:

The suspension on my 90 is hell of bouncy. I reckon it's probably stock, and simply worn out after 170k miles. What kind of dampers would be a good replacement? Currently I do only street/highway driving, for work, but I'd like them to be good for some autocrossing in a few months when I have some time off from work to try my hand at it. I'm not sure what my budget should be, but I don't want to spend a whole lot. GoMiata.net recommends these on their "new owners" page.

Should I replace the springs as well? Bumpstops? Shock mounts? This will be my first suspension change on any car. I don't know if lowering would be so good, since the PO put on 16" wheels. Which sort of brings me to my next point. Is there any reason at all to have 16-inch wheels on an NA? Or should I can them and look for some 15s?

Any suggestions re: wheels and suspension?

einTier
Sep 25, 2003

Charming, friendly, and possessed by demons.
Approach with caution.

GoblinBomb posted:

Any suggestions re: wheels and suspension?
The KYB's are a good choice if you plan to go do some racing sometime in the future. They're adjustable, so they won't beat you up on the road, but will be acceptable when you want the car to be a little more responsive. They're reasonable too, so they won't break the bank. If you want to go cheaper, go with Tokiko Illuminas.

Honestly, at 170k, just about anything is going to be better than what you've got on there. You generally don't notice how bad shocks are because they happen gradually.

iscariot
Oct 7, 2001


Oh god I'm an idiot.

Chauncey
Sep 16, 2007

Gibbering
Fathead


IOwnCalculus posted:

Seriously? That's the loving copout? Why not plug where the pump would go with a plate and stick a beefier electric one on there?

Probably because it's the fuel pump and direct injection engines operate at huge fuel pressures(1500 psi for this one I think) so an electric one won't suffice.

Kinda like how electric superchargers don't work.

ChiliMac
Apr 13, 2005

That's why I never kiss 'em on the mouth.

iscariot posted:



Oh god I'm an idiot.

BEGi S3? You'll have to tell us how it goes because I might be heading that direction in a few months time. What are you doing for engine management?

...and what's the bracing at the bottom? Part of the FM butterfly brace?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

iscariot posted:



Oh god I'm an idiot.
gently caress YOU

ugh I'm indescribably jealous :smith:

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

destructo posted:

ugh I'm indescribably jealous :smith:

So am I, but instead of spending another 5k on my miata I bought a motorcycle. Now my miata feels extremly slow and I want a turbo even more :smith:
My plan failed...

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh

FireTora posted:

So am I, but instead of spending another 5k on my miata I bought a motorcycle. Now my miata feels extremly slow and I want a turbo even more :smith:
My plan failed...

So am I. I'm basically constantly fighting with myself to ignore all the cosmetic damage to the car while I save up for a new suspension and turbo kit. Every single panel on my car is cracked or dented (don't let your mom drive your car), but the suspension is also 133,000 miles old and I crave POWAH. The body panels can wait.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma

destructo posted:

gently caress YOU

ugh I'm indescribably jealous :smith:

Over here in the UK, everyone I know who has gone forced induction on there Miata has ended up selling the car a year later and moving on, why is this, are 200BHP Miata's comparable to Z4's, S2000 and the like?

I don't want to waste £3k on doing it to my car, only to then lust after something more upmarket as that £3k has got no real resale value.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

mobn posted:

So am I. I'm basically constantly fighting with myself to ignore all the cosmetic damage to the car while I save up for a new suspension and turbo kit. Every single panel on my car is cracked or dented (don't let your mom drive your car), but the suspension is also 133,000 miles old and I crave POWAH. The body panels can wait.

Ya, I've probably spent about 3500 on my car since I bought it on suspension, lights, and replacing almost everything engine and brake related so that it would be reliable and not break on me. I desperatly want the car repainted, it is pretty beat up and I have tone of dings and a few golfball size dents. To properly turbo it the way I want to I'd need MSPNP, a turbo kit and a torsen swap which would proabably run me 5-6k...
If someone had been interested in buying my car when i had it on craigslist i would have had no issue selling it as i wouldnt mind a differnt car, but in the 2 weeks it was on there i only had 3 people email and they only wanted the hard top...

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

willd58 posted:

Over here in the UK, everyone I know who has gone forced induction on there Miata has ended up selling the car a year later and moving on, why is this, are 200BHP Miata's comparable to Z4's, S2000 and the like?

I don't want to waste £3k on doing it to my car, only to then lust after something more upmarket as that £3k has got no real resale value.

I've looked at the numbers and everything, and I know I'm going to upgrade to a faster car to begin with rather than going the FI route, I'm pretty sure. Why someone would go through the effort of making an FI Miata and then sell it, I'm not sure, unless it just didn't turn out to be what they wanted/were expecting.

Not to knock the FI route, as they really turn out to be awesome, fast cars, but when I work the numbers I could put myself in a very nice car for not much more, and without the constant tweaking and futzing with all the aftermarket stuff. I'm sure these guys realize the same.

I figure I could sell my car for $6000 pretty easily, if not a touch more, then plus the $1000+ I would want to do in suspension mods, plus $4000-6000 for a proper turbo setup all said and done. And that almost certainly wouldn't be the last of the costs (MegaSquirt, tires, stronger engine parts/clutch/trans/diff, etc.). If I were going to spend $15,000+ total on a car, I'd be much more likely to put it toward an S2000, Z4, Boxster, or Elise. By the time I could afford to invest in all the upgrades to my Miata, I could easily stretch my budget to afford any of those faster cars, all without having to invest time/effort/money into large upgrades and tweaking that I could never recover if I wanted/needed to sell the car. In a few years I'll hopefully be in this situation when I'm out of grad school.

I realize for some people that's the whole joy of it. I still do my own maintenance, but for me, and most people, driving is the biggest joy, not necessarily the tinkering.

Guinness fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Aug 8, 2008

iscariot
Oct 7, 2001
Begi S5. External wastegate. Only caveat is that it's for a 99 and I'm tossing it on a 94. I went through it last night and I'm missing the exhaust manifold studs but I think that's all. $3500, guy totaled his 99 before he got a chance to install it - I just couldn't pass it up.

And yes, FM butterfly brace. Got it off of craigslist and stainless steel brake lines for $400 (yes, a little on the high side - but not bad considering I didn't have to pay for shipping - I basically got the brake lines for free).

And..


100k mile longblock for $125, not pictured: rest of the block, and head and valve cover gaskets. This is going to be the base of the build.

Plans are still developing, but this is going to sit archived for awhile (mid-fall, at least) till I finish my SHO. ARP studs top and bottom, ETD rods, ceramic coat pistons or wisecos, depending on bore taper, megasquirt (still deciding on whether or not I should pull my current one and make a few upgrades). Going to swap the suspension bits off my 96 onto my 94, and sell the 96. End goal is going to be a reliable 250hp and a kidney punching suspension.

Might as well start calling the 94 the girlfriend, since I'm going to be spending a lot of weekends with it...

I guess I shouldn't deceive myself anymore that this is cheaper than a car payment. I'm keeping track of expenses in a spreadsheet, so far $8,065 - though I do hope to knock that down some when I sell the 96 and the supercharger.

iscariot fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 8, 2008

Shartweek
Feb 15, 2003

D O E S N O T E X I S T

Guinness posted:

I've looked at the numbers and everything, and I know I'm going to upgrade to a faster car to begin with rather than going the FI route, I'm pretty sure. Why someone would go through the effort of making an FI Miata and then sell it, I'm not sure, unless it just didn't turn out to be what they wanted/were expecting.

Not to knock the FI route, as they really turn out to be awesome, fast cars, but when I work the numbers I could put myself in a very nice car for not much more, and without the constant tweaking and futzing with all the aftermarket stuff. I'm sure these guys realize the same.

I figure I could sell my car for $6000 pretty easily, if not a touch more, then plus the $1000+ I would want to do in suspension mods, plus $4000-6000 for a proper turbo setup all said and done. And that almost certainly wouldn't be the last of the costs (MegaSquirt, tires, stronger engine parts/clutch/trans/diff, etc.). If I were going to spend $15,000+ total on a car, I'd be much more likely to put it toward an S2000, Z4, Boxster, or Elise. By the time I could afford to invest in all the upgrades to my Miata, I could easily stretch my budget to afford any of those faster cars, all without having to invest time/effort/money into large upgrades and tweaking that I could never recover if I wanted/needed to sell the car. In a few years I'll hopefully be in this situation when I'm out of grad school.

I realize for some people that's the whole joy of it. I still do my own maintenance, but for me, and most people, driving is the biggest joy, not necessarily the tinkering.


I like the idea of modding Miatas because NAs are cheap and plentiful, you will be more inclined to drive aggressivly in a car that is easily replaced then you would a brand new car. You can then move mods from car to car should unfortunate things happen to you in the course of owning the Miata. Hardcore owners mods total 2-3x what the car cost them in the first place. It seems to me people mod Miatas for the fun and challange/enjoyment of it, ignoring the fact that they could get a better car for the same amount of money.

Parts are plentiful and cheap, and you can make some fast cars for a realitivly low price if you go all DIY. People grow attached to their Miatas and have a really tough time deciding to mod or buy something better. But after proper power and suspension mods, would the Miata not be a better all around sports-car then a stock S2K or Z4? And what's to stop you from wanting to mod your newer, faster, more expensive car? The disease is ever-present, only this time it's probably going to be a lot more expensive.

I personally am still weighing my options. I really would like to turbocharge my 2002 LS, but after I pay it off in a year I think I might pick up an NA instead and tool around on that. This way I can keep my NB stock to daily drive it and still have a kick rear end track toy on the side.

Chauncey
Sep 16, 2007

Gibbering
Fathead


I recently was in a fender bender and just got done replacing the lower control arm and tie rod ends. I went to start the car and it started rough with the fuel gauge reading on E and then died. I added about a half gallon which then put the fuel gauge to between 1/4 and a 1/2 but now it won't start. It cranks but won't fire up.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

GoblinBomb
Sep 19, 2004
Shit happens when you party naked.
My car has TWO side mirrors now! Truly this is a wonderful day.

Before:


After:


Not exactly brand shiny new, but it was super cheap and I plan on repainting the car anyway.
Next, installing a new grille. I'm having a hell of a time finding an OEM one or something from a parts car that isn't hosed up.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





How much of a pain in the rear end is it to get at the mirrors? The plastic housing on the passenger mirror of our '99 is loose and rattling.

Got the new Robbins top on...goddamn it is nice being able to seal out the outside world. Hopefully the weather will cool off by the time I'm allowed to drop the top again :)

GoblinBomb
Sep 19, 2004
Shit happens when you party naked.

IOwnCalculus posted:

How much of a pain in the rear end is it to get at the mirrors? The plastic housing on the passenger mirror of our '99 is loose and rattling.

Super-easy for mine, they're manual mirrors. Flathead screwdriver in a little slot on the base, pop it up, rotate it out of the way. Screws are right there. According to my repair book, for power mirrors you must take off the door trim panel and watershield to get at the wires.

duep
Dec 9, 2005
I am the captain
I'm looking for oil advice, 1.6 NA.
The 10W40 I'm currently using was fine in winter, but in hot weather I'm getting a fair bit of hot tick after thrashing down a country lane or flooring it for a while on the autobahn. Would changing to 5W30 probably solve that problem or should I go straight for an oilcooler ?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006
Mobil1 10w30 works great for me, hot tick came on a bit early during the first change, but every one since then has essentially gotten rid of it. Make sure you're topped up as well.

Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.

Guinness posted:

Not to knock the FI route, as they really turn out to be awesome, fast cars, but when I work the numbers I could put myself in a very nice car for not much more, and without the constant tweaking and futzing with all the aftermarket stuff. I'm sure these guys realize the same.

I figure I could sell my car for $6000 pretty easily, if not a touch more, then plus the $1000+ I would want to do in suspension mods, plus $4000-6000 for a proper turbo setup all said and done. And that almost certainly wouldn't be the last of the costs (MegaSquirt, tires, stronger engine parts/clutch/trans/diff, etc.). If I were going to spend $15,000+ total on a car, I'd be much more likely to put it toward an S2000, Z4, Boxster, or Elise. By the time I could afford to invest in all the upgrades to my Miata, I could easily stretch my budget to afford any of those faster cars, all without having to invest time/effort/money into large upgrades and tweaking that I could never recover if I wanted/needed to sell the car. In a few years I'll hopefully be in this situation when I'm out of grad school.

I realize for some people that's the whole joy of it. I still do my own maintenance, but for me, and most people, driving is the biggest joy, not necessarily the tinkering.

I have like 17-18k into my car. $4k in the car, $5k into the turbo and ancillaries, $1k in the drivetrain, $3k for safety equipment (seats, harnesses, rollbar), $2k in suspension, $1k in wheels and tires, plus a bunch of miscellaneous poo poo. The problem with saying that I could go out and buy an S2k or a Boxster is that my car will walk the gently caress away from those cars. Even if you move up a class, my car will wander away from STIs, Evos, E46 M3s, E39 M5s, 993 Carreras, etc. I don't think there's a car out there that will beat mine in a straight line and even keep up with it in corners for less money. People scoff at the pricetag on my car, and then I remind them of the machinery that I've shown taillights to, and the price tags on THOSE cars, and it begins to make sense.

But yeah, people who sell heavily modified cars are dumb.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Savington posted:

I have like 17-18k into my car.

Oh, don't get me wrong, Sav. Your car is a total monster, and it is undoubtedly faster than it's more expensive roadster competition. Your car is supremely awesome and I am jealous of it.

It's just that I completely understand why most people would rather buy a faster stock car than dump $13,000 in mods on a 15 year old car. Hell, I'm one of them. Like I said previously, for me the biggest joy is in the driving, and not so much the tinkering. At least for the time being, a lot of that sentiment comes from not having the flexibility to work on, maintain, and store a project car. I don't have the patience to DD a project car, either. If I had space for two cars and the time, money, and energy I'd do it in a heartbeat.

But I think we can certainly both agree that anyone who does dump $10k+ into a car, like an FI Miata, and then turns around and sells it at a huge loss is of questionable intelligence.

Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.
I understand it too, TBH. There is something to be said for a stock car with a warranty that is still reasonably fun to drive.

Willie D
Dec 29, 2006

by Ozma

Savington posted:

Even if you move up a class, my car will wander away from STIs, Evos, E46 M3s, E39 M5s, 993 Carreras,

What are the specs of your car?

mobn
May 23, 2005

by Ozmaugh

GoblinBomb posted:

My car has TWO side mirrors now! Truly this is a wonderful day.

Before:


After:


Not exactly brand shiny new, but it was super cheap and I plan on repainting the car anyway.
Next, installing a new grille. I'm having a hell of a time finding an OEM one or something from a parts car that isn't hosed up.

Something seems vaguely off with your car visually, and I cant' figure out what it is. It doesn't quite look like a normal NA. Have you changed any body panels or anything?

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Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

mobn posted:

Something seems vaguely off with your car visually, and I cant' figure out what it is. It doesn't quite look like a normal NA. Have you changed any body panels or anything?

The lack of sideview mirror, and also the rear wheel almost looks like it is sitting too far forward in the wheel well.

But even still, you're right that something seems vaguely off. :psyduck:

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