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I just got back from a 2000+ mile road trip in my E36, and it was a fantastic car in the Appalachians. When I got to Myrtle Beach (my destination) I found I needed new rear tires. The Bridgestone Potenza RE960ASs that I had on there had gone almost completely bald in under 15k miles. The fronts were fine. Is this normal? I had the local Firestone dealer replace them, and they do an inspection for free, and told me my suspension looked fine. Anything I should re-look at in particular? They did notice that I needed new rear brakes, which Im doing this weekend. I bought the bleeder tool from Bavarian Autosport, because I plan on bleeding the brakes and the clutch... is this a pain in the rear end to do? I've never bled brakes before.
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Aug 17, 2008 23:22
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So you think the part where your foot rests just has the plastic on it, and its catching glare? That makes sense.
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Aug 17, 2008 23:29
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Arwox posted:So you think the part where your foot rests just has the plastic on it, and its catching glare?
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Aug 17, 2008 23:31
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CornHolio posted:They did notice that I needed new rear brakes, which Im doing this weekend. I bought the bleeder tool from Bavarian Autosport, because I plan on bleeding the brakes and the clutch... is this a pain in the rear end to do? I've never bled brakes before.
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Aug 17, 2008 23:34
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Xenoid posted:It's very easy. I did it without a bleeder tool and had a person in the car pushing the pedal. I don't know what exactly a bleeder tool is (I can guess, never seen or used one) but you should be fine. According to the site, it pressurizes the system so one person can do it: quote:Our exclusive design makes bleeding your BMW’s brakes and clutch even easier! Our one-man brake bleeding kit keeps hydraulic systems pressurized and full of fluid while you purge the old fluid, along with dangerous moisture and air bubbles. New features include a quick-connect coupling that allows you to screw on the cap first, then connect the hose (instead of twisting the entire bottle around), and a button to safely relieve pressure in the system once you’ve finished the job. (No more brake fluid spraying all over as you unscrew the top.) (We recommend our brake bleeding receiver bottle #PB04.) I also bought the special tool to do the clutch slave, so hopefully it goes without a hitch.
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Aug 17, 2008 23:40
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:You mean the plastic covering? That dead pedal looks really tore up somehow, and not just covered by the plastic courtesy sheet. Is that a stock steering wheel? Arwox, lemme know what you end up paying for it if you buy it. Trying to get a gauge on E36 M3 prices.
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Aug 17, 2008 23:44
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CornHolio posted:They did notice that I needed new rear brakes, which Im doing this weekend. I bought the bleeder tool from Bavarian Autosport, because I plan on bleeding the brakes and the clutch... is this a pain in the rear end to do? I've never bled brakes before. I have the same bleeder, and it's dead simple to use. Fill with 2 quarts of fluid (probably overkill, but it's better to have too much than too little), hook it up, pump it up to ~25 psi, then get to bleeding (Rear right, rear left, front right, front left, clutch) checking the pressure in the bottle between each wheel and pumping it back up to ~25psi. There's no special tricks to it or anything, once the fluid starts coming out clear you're done bleeding that wheel. The biggest PITA is taking the wheels off and putting them back on, the rest is a walk in the park. kimbo305 posted:That dead pedal looks really tore up somehow, and not just covered by the plastic courtesy sheet. Is that a stock steering wheel? It looks exactly like my dead pedal with a plastic sheet over it. You would have to be trying pretty hard to mess up the dead pedal, to the point of hitting it with a hammer. And yes, that's the stock M steering wheel. Only a few years got the 3-spoke, and even then I think it was an option. The 3 spoke looks better, but the 4 spoke is more comfortable, at least in my opinion. Especially on non-92 cars where the tilt isn't adjustable (I just like to rub that one in, yay '92 E36s!)
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Aug 18, 2008 00:17
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Arwox posted:Does anyone have any idea what this stuff might be? There's definitely plastic on the dead pedal just like on the floormats. As far as the yellow/brown color, it looks like there's an amber light shining down underneath the dashboard in both the driver and passenger footwells (the passenger side especially appears to have a light down there). Is that actually the case on an E36 M3?
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Aug 18, 2008 01:06
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Beerios posted:There's definitely plastic on the dead pedal just like on the floormats. As far as the yellow/brown color, it looks like there's an amber light shining down underneath the dashboard in both the driver and passenger footwells (the passenger side especially appears to have a light down there). Is that actually the case on an E36 M3?
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Aug 18, 2008 01:39
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Alright, thanks everyone for easing my mind. This is gonna be my first bmw if everything works out.  And kimbo ill let you know.
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Aug 18, 2008 02:43
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CornHolio posted:I just got back from a 2000+ mile road trip in my E36, and it was a fantastic car in the Appalachians. When I got to Myrtle Beach (my destination) I found I needed new rear tires. The Bridgestone Potenza RE960ASs that I had on there had gone almost completely bald in under 15k miles. The fronts were fine. Is this normal?
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Aug 18, 2008 05:27
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VacaGrande posted:I'd get the alignment actually checked instead of eyeballing it after you replace the tires, but I wouldn't assume anything's wrong. My E46 chews through rear tires at about that rate... wrote off a perfectly good set of Pilot Sports in 15k miles and the fronts look to last about twice that long. Actually they did check the alignment as well, and to my suprise told me everything was within spec - I thought I had something tweaked up front, but apparently not.
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Aug 18, 2008 13:09
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Art Vandelay posted:Try calling Bavarian Auto Recycling - their prices aren't rock bottom but they're pretty reasonable. FYI these guys are almost universally hated on bimmerforums for scamming, slow delivery or outright sales of incorrect parts.
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Aug 18, 2008 19:29
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I have a 2004 X3 2.5i (E83) that just ran out of warranty in May. This past weekend I went on a road trip and the rear left window stopped working properly. I could hear the motor buzzing but the window wouldn't go up or down. I could manually put the window up however by grabbing it and pulling it. I looked around online this morning and decided to take the interior panel and the vapor barrier off. I don't see any broken fasteners and the motor is clearly working correctly. Most forums indicate this as a window regulator that needs to be replaced. This is when i run into a slight problem. I've looked around at at least a dozen parts websites and nothing is coming up for what I need. realoem.com says that the part has been discontinued (part #51353413189). Does anyone have any experience with replacing the window regulator and can anyone help with finding the correct part? I really don't want to order a part and have it not be the right one. I went ahead and emailed my local dealer to find out what it will cost buying it from them (and hopefully finding the updated part #).
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Aug 18, 2008 22:03
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Call a dealership parts counter and tell them you need a window regulator for an '04 X3 2.5. They'll help you find the right part.
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Aug 18, 2008 22:17
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BraveUlysses posted:FYI these guys are almost universally hated on bimmerforums for scamming, slow delivery or outright sales of incorrect parts. That's great. I just ordered another part from them today ($100 on a $250 new part). I guess we'll see how it turns out.
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Aug 19, 2008 08:14
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crackfiend posted:This is when i run into a slight problem. I've looked around at at least a dozen parts websites and nothing is coming up for what I need. realoem.com says that the part has been discontinued (part #51353413189). http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...9&I1.x=6&I1.y=6 Pelican Parts has it at $105 but its special order and non returnable, so that sucks. It's weird cause thats a new car and shouldn't be discontinued like that so yea call your dealership and see whats up.
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Aug 19, 2008 10:45
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SpecialK2 posted:http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...9&I1.x=6&I1.y=6 Doesn't discontinued usually mean there's a revised part that should hopefully be more reliable?
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Aug 19, 2008 15:14
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maxallen posted:That's great. I just ordered another part from them today ($100 on a $250 new part). I guess we'll see how it turns out. I have ordered a couple parts from them. I have a differential sitting at home that I just ordered. Its got a 6 month warranty, so we will see how things go. I have found that they are a little on the high side for used part pricing and slow to ship.
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Aug 19, 2008 15:18
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I was thinking, I'd love to find an older, cheap BMW manual wagon as a backup/third car. Was the E28 or E34 available in wagon form in the US? I know Enthusiast Auto in Cincinatti has a couple of E34 M5 tourings but they're at least 40k apiece and I don't know if they were imported special or not - I'd just like an old 5-series (preferably, though 3-series would be OK, I just want the ability to haul big things if needed) with a manual and a wagon.
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Aug 19, 2008 15:22
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CornHolio posted:I was thinking, I'd love to find an older, cheap BMW manual wagon as a backup/third car. Was the E28 or E34 available in wagon form in the US? I know Enthusiast Auto in Cincinatti has a couple of E34 M5 tourings but they're at least 40k apiece and I don't know if they were imported special or not - I'd just like an old 5-series (preferably, though 3-series would be OK, I just want the ability to haul big things if needed) with a manual and a wagon. I know we got the E34 525iT, but they can be hard to find. If you can stretch your budget a bit E39 wagons are getting somewhat cheap. My dad picked up a 1998 528iT with sport package last November for $8500. I can't think of another car in the price range that offers that much usability and fun to drive in a single package. He's used it many times for shopping trips to Lowe's and it has handled it like a champ. He even used it to rip a shrub out of the ground (the PO installed a trailer hitch). The E34 wagons are out there, they just take a little bit of digging to find one. Especially in a manual.
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Aug 19, 2008 16:07
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crackfiend posted:Part no. should be 51 35 3 448 251 Your cost should be around $132 before taxes.
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Aug 19, 2008 20:20
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kimbo305 posted:That dead pedal looks really tore up somehow, and not just covered by the plastic courtesy sheet. Is that a stock steering wheel? Arwox, lemme know what you end up paying for it if you buy it. Trying to get a gauge on E36 M3 prices. As of yesterday im a proud owner of a 1998 bmw e36 M3 coupe.  It had 64k miles, very small amount of rust where the spoiler meets the trunk. No dings, but a few minor scratches. I'd say it was in excellent condition for being 10 years old. I ended up paying 14,900 for it. (please don't tell me i payed way too much) I looked around online and in the papers and this was about the best deal i could find. Also one question, my on board computer is in german and the owners manual didnt have anything in it about switching the languages. Is this something the dealer should have done?
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Aug 23, 2008 01:00
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Arwox posted:Also one question, my on board computer is in german and the owners manual didnt have anything in it about switching the languages. Is this something the dealer should have done? Solution here, plus a lot of other cool/useless poo poo the OBC does: http://www.bmwe36blog.com/2007/03/31/bmw-on-board-computer-obd-secrets/
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Aug 23, 2008 01:04
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I've been looking at E36 BMWs for the past couple of months, now that my 2001 Jetta TDI is just under 3 months away from being completely paid off! The VW is my first car, I like it and it's treated me well (probably because I've taken good care of it) but I'm starting to think I'd like something else. I'm not interested in having any more car payments so I've been thinking about fun used cars.. Well, today a '95 325i popped up on Kijiji. From the pics, it looks to be in pretty good shape. It's a 5-speed with 152k km and a new MVI. The person selling is asking $4900 Canadian... is this too cheap? I'm not sure if the cooling system has been replaced or how old the suspension is because I haven't contacted the seller yet. Since it's listed as having a new MVI, should I expect the car to be in decent shape overall? I've read the whole thread and I've got a list of things to check for (including asking about maintenance records) but I'm going away tomorrow morning for the weekend. I'm thinking if the car is still around on Monday I'll actually get ahold of the person and go check it out. Thanks for any help!
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Aug 23, 2008 03:00
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tropical posted:I've been looking at E36 BMWs for the past couple of months, now that my 2001 Jetta TDI is just under 3 months away from being completely paid off! The VW is my first car, I like it and it's treated me well (probably because I've taken good care of it) but I'm starting to think I'd like something else. I'm not interested in having any more car payments so I've been thinking about fun used cars.. Good e36 325 4 doors can be had for around that price since they're usually untouched by people who think chrome rims are awesome. Finding a 325iS is a lot harder because people buy them up and ruin them, then expect 9k for a lovely BMW. If they don't have maintenance records I'd probably keep looking, most BMW owners seem to keep fairly good records of what work has been done, even as far back as E30s. edit: 4900? You must live in Halifax.
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Aug 23, 2008 03:21
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Crustashio posted:Good e36 325 4 doors can be had for around that price since they're usually untouched by people who think chrome rims are awesome. Finding a 325iS is a lot harder because people buy them up and ruin them, then expect 9k for a lovely BMW. Indeed I am in Halifax. It's hard to find decent looking used E36s around here, they pop up on occasion but half of them are automatics. You're right about the coupes, in early July a '98 5-speed 328is with only 160k km showed up on Kijiji with an asking price of $9900. Actually I lied a bit in my original post, the car first showed up on Thursday with a price of $4995, and last night they re-listed it at $4900. The only thing I'm really worried about (besides no maintenance records) is the potential for rust. But the car looks great in the pics, and with only 152k km, if it's the original owner then the car probably wasn't winter driven, which would be sweet. Anyways I'm heading out in about 30 mins for the weekend, so hopefully nobody snatches this up today or tomorrow and I can actually go check it out!
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Aug 23, 2008 13:11
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Welp, just got back from the BMW Drive for the Cure. I drove a 535i (only because the 335d I signed up for had been pulled out at the last minute) and a 135i. The 5-series felt big, had really complicated controls, but overall it was a nice car for what it was. The wipers were really mesmerizing, too. Anybody thats seen how the E60 wipers work will understand. The 135i on the other hand was a beast. Unfortunately it was an auto, but the manual mode was better than most. That fucker was FAST. Passed a slower car on a twisty two-lane road and I went from 35 - 80 in about three seconds. I reeeeeally want one but goddamn I gotta believe I'd lose my license in a day with that car. And the sound it made, oh my god it was awesome. I had an old guy on a bike yell at me accelerating from a stop sign even though I wasn't at the speed limit yet! They had an M3 and an Alpina B7 there, along with more 'ordinary' BMWs like X3s, X5s, 335i's, X6s, 550is, 650is, etc. I'm glad I picked the 135i though, its one of the only ones I would seriously consider buying and I was even more impressed with itt han I thought I would be. Still, once they start coming off of lease, I gotta look into them. I outta be ready to replace my E36 by then. edit for some photos:  Alpina B7  760Li   M3   My wife trying to figure out the HVAC controls in the 535i  Now thats more like it    
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Aug 24, 2008 |
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Aug 23, 2008 23:23
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Am I an idiot for wanting a 5 or 7 series as a daily driver? I could do a new one with payments if I wanted to bring about an early divorce, but I regularly see new(ish) ones for about ~$20k on Craigslist and the other usual venues, and ~$20k is what I have budgeted for myself for when my old Lexus finally dies. I was looking at Civics and the like, for fuel economy, but there's that part of me that will miss luxury and I'm wondering what those of you with BMW experience think about a 5 or 7 series 2002+ with 50k+ miles as a daily driver (30 mile daily commute, mostly highway). I've never even driven a BMW, but the few rides I've taken in them make them some kind of benchmark in my head for comfort and luxury. Please tell me if I'm an idiot for thinking a 5 or 7 series will be a reliable cruiser from 50k to 100k+ (or an idiot for even asking, I seriously do not know).
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Aug 24, 2008 00:07
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groverat posted:Am I an idiot for wanting a 5 or 7 series as a daily driver? From what I hear, the 7 series tends to be a bit unreliable as it gets up in miles, mostly from having technology out the wazzou, which is why they hold their value wo poorly. The 5 series I believe is significantly more reliable. There's also a sport package that I think is pretty good for the 5 series. I'd also recommend the straight-6 engines (535 and below) over the V8, again from what I've heard. What model/year is your Lexus, because you may be looking at several years before it actually starts to die.
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Aug 24, 2008 00:44
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1992 SC300 w/ over 140k miles and the automatic transmission making funny noises at seemingly-random intervals (also, it's got some mismatched coloration and minor body damage, not enough to make you gag, but just enough to make it so that it would be a very expensive job (or series of jobs, really)). The real motivator isn't all that (I'm not vain, so the ugly doesn't bother me too much), it's that I'm going to need a 4-door as the wife and I get on the baby train; the childless life will soon leave me and damned if I'm going to try and wrestle a car seat into that back seat. Thanks for the thoughts on the 7. As I looked through the feature list it did look like a shitload of stuff that could go wrong (massage chairs for Christ's sake). They're pretty big, too, which is awesome and also off-putting.
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Aug 24, 2008 00:57
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Posted in the marketplace thread too... I've got a set of Bentley manuals for an E39 BMW 5 series. Covers everything from 1997-2002 _except_ the M5. Lists from Bentley publishers for $170, but I'll let them go for $100 shipped for a goon. E-mail me at thompsjeXXXatgmaildotcom if you're interested. Pull the XXX and convert the 'at' and the 'dot'.
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Aug 24, 2008 01:13
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groverat posted:Please tell me if I'm an idiot for thinking a 5 or 7 series will be a reliable cruiser from 50k to 100k+ (or an idiot for even asking, I seriously do not know). I daily drive a 2003 530i and it's never left me stranded. It HAS had it share of problems, however. 50-100k is about the time the following occurs: - One part or another of the cooling system takes a poo poo. Usually the water pump, but the expansion tanks are also a problem. When one part starts to leak, it's best to replace EVERYTHING (hoses, WP, radiator, expansion tank, t-stat, belts, fan clutch) for about $500-600 in parts and a weekend's labor. The 540i is MUCH more prone to this with the 530i usually making it to 100k without issue. For what it's worth, mine is at 97k and there are no leaks in my cooling system and no play in my waterpump bearing. YMMV. - The secondary air pump gives up and throws a "check engine" light. Not a huge issue, but about $270 in parts and a couple hours work. Mine was replaced under CPO warranty, no charge. - The automatic transmissions usually make it to 100k+, but failures at 80k aren't out of the ordinary. Again, a bigger issue on the 540i. - The suspension parts are really worn by 60-70k, especially on Sports Package cars (like mine). The 5-series uses a multi-link rear suspension so there are LOTS of ball joints and bushings to wear out. Easiest thing is to replace all the parts at once instead of piece-mail. My rear-upper control arm ball joints had torn and leaked all their grease by 78k miles. Shocks are usually toast by this point too. I re-did my entire suspension front and rear (shocks, all new control arms and bushings, and new upper strut bearings) for about $1000 in parts in one weekend with a helper. TOTALLY transformed the car and well worth it. - Brakes and brake fluid due for a change. Fluid is especially important because the calipers are sensitive to moisture and will rust and seize up. - Front wheel bearings on cars that are driven on rough roads. $200 in parts and an afternoon - a day in (your) labor. Do them at the same time as the front suspension and the work overlaps nicely. Mine are fine, but my car was driven on smooth roads most of it's life. - Cat converters on the 540i cars. You really want to find out if this has been done because they are $2000 and there are TWO! 525i and 530i cars have had no issues with their cats. - Pixels in the dash and radio displays like to go out. The cluster is about $600 plus re-programming by the dealer and the radio display is another $500 or so. Dealers have been known to "goodwill" the parts even if the car isn't under warranty. Worth a shot I guess. Mine show no signs of this problem. - Sports Package cars eat tires. The rears will be shot after 10-15k or less sometimes. It's normal so deal with it or look for a car without the SP. I know this sounds like a nightmare, but it's not that bad. Mine has never stranded me and I'm probably a little picky about my cars and their state of repair (I like things PERFECT or darn close). The cars cost anywhere from $35,000 to $60,000 when new so parts are priced accordingly. These cars are basically large sports cars and wear out parts faster. Engines run hotter, the suspension has to make the car corner like it's on rails AND give a good ride, and they have a high "gadget content" (ie. more stuff to break). I'd suggest finding a CPO car, but the last E39 rolled off the line in June 2003 so even if you did fine a car, it's CPO would be up around June 2009 (when mine is up!). Not much time, but maybe still worth a little price premium. Look for SERVICE RECORDS for any car you're considering! If you can find out if any of the common problems are taken care of, even better! A well maintained car is worth the extra cash and piece of mind and will save you money in the long run. Use the fact that the cooling system needs an overhaul to lower the price. Budget about $2000 after purchase for repairs to avoid "surprises". At the end of the day, they are fantastic cars and there is a reason why Consumer Reports and Car and Driver called them the best sedan ever. They have a smooth ride, handle fantastically, provide TONS of feedback, look great, have just the right amount of luxury, and wrap it up in an unassuming, driver-oriented package.
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Aug 24, 2008 03:08
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Now that's a ringing endorsement. Of course, I'm not handy at all with a wrench so it would probably be a lot more expensive for me than it is for you (and most everyone else in AI). Are 3s less needy?
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Aug 24, 2008 03:56
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I have a fairly major dilemma. My sunroof is irreparably hosed. I picked up a replacement which is almost perfect. However, piece number 14 is the image below is broken.  As one can see on realoem.com, piece number 14 is discontinued and replaced with 15. I know this because my original sunroof (the hosed one) had 15 instead of 14. However, the two pieces are not interchangeable. 14 is metal and short, 15 is plastic and long. My solution here was to cut my original piece 15 to length. Since I need both ends of 15, I had to take a section from the uniform middle. What is the best way to glue the pieces together EXTREMELY solidly? As in, never coming apart. The joint is subject to direct on-axis tension and minor shear. I've already tried crazy glue (some ghetto brand) and 2 part epoxy. Neither were satisfactorily hard. The piece I am gluing is plastic. Should I try J.B. Weld, or is that just for metal? Should I try Gorilla Glue, or will it expand too much in an application where a single millimeter is very important? Any other suggestions, like melting the plastic parts into each other (comedy options, etc.)? I'm getting desperate here, and I'm running out of time before I have to go back to school.
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Aug 24, 2008 07:04
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groverat posted:Are 3s less needy? Eh. A little bit. I had a 2001 330i as well. Here are the differences/similarities: - 6 cyl. Engines are the same, so the same problems with the cooling systems apply. I believe they use electric fans instead of belt driven fans so you won't be replacing the fan clutch, but all the other parts are the same and break the same way at the same time. - Automatics are even bigger pieces of poo poo (so I've read) and most will fail soon after 100k. Stories of not going in reverse or not coming out of 2nd are fairly common. I avoid the whole mess by driving stick. If you get any BMW, I suggest the same.  - Suspension is still worn (esp. on Sports Package cars) by 60-70k, but there are fewer parts and they are cheaper/easier to replace. - Brakes are the same. Don't neglect the fluid. - No dash/radio pixel issues that I've ever heard of. - Tire situation is much better, even on the Sports Package cars. I had a set last me 30,000 miles before I sold the car and there was still ~30% of the tread left. - A very few of the E46 3-series cars have an issue where the rear subframe tears away from the car. You can recognize the problem by odd, random clunking sounds coming from the back when you go over bumps. It's expensive to fix but it's rare and people in online forums like to exaggerate how widespread it is. Honestly, I should have kept the 330i I had. The 5 isn't much bigger on the inside, it just has more presence on the road and is a (slightly) better highway car. The 5 feels so planted at 120MPH that it's boring coming back down to 70. The 3 was fine at 120, but the 5 felt like it could do much more whereas the 3 was starting to a feel a tiny bit "twitchy". But it's not like we Americans drive at much more than 80, so it really doesn't matter. Handling-wise, my 530i Sport is 95% of the handling of my 330i Sport. Seriously. It's amazing that a car that big and heavy can corner like it does. I'd say the 5 has even MORE road feel and feedback from the steering wheel the 3 did. They are both fantastic cars, but like I said, if I had to choose now, I'd pick the 3 again.
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Aug 24, 2008 14:49
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Brock Landers posted:I believe they use electric fans instead of belt driven fans so you won't be replacing the fan clutch E46s with Automatic transmissions use a belt driven fan.
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Aug 24, 2008 15:05
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Brock Landers posted:- A very few of the E46 3-series cars have an issue where the rear subframe tears away from the car. You can recognize the problem by odd, random clunking sounds coming from the back when you go over bumps. It's expensive to fix but it's rare and people in online forums like to exaggerate how widespread it is. The vast majority of the subframe failures were on the 1999-2000 323 and 328, if I recall correctly. It's been known to happen on the 325/330 (2001+) as well, but it's much, much less common.
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Aug 24, 2008 15:44
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I'm hoping the automatic transmission failures on these forums are overplayed as well. I've got 110k on the clock right now on my auto 3-series.
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Aug 24, 2008 16:51
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Beerios posted:The vast majority of the subframe failures were on the 1999-2000 323 and 328, if I recall correctly. It's been known to happen on the 325/330 (2001+) as well, but it's much, much less common. All non-M E36's are susceptible to subframe failures, and E46's area already showing problems well under 100K mi, which looks like many more in the future as E46's continue to age.
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Aug 24, 2008 18:19
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