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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Also, I hope you posted these pictures on the E30 forums that were telling you to rebuild the entire engine. poo poo, thanks for reminding me, I'm on it! edit #2: How's this?  And here's a picture of my car helper, Turbo  
two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Sep 23, 2008 21:12
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Arwox posted:You now look like a hooligan. Well well.. I see this is no ordinary BMW thread.
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Sep 23, 2008 21:54
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Hello BMW thread! I'm going to be moving up to WA from CA in the next few months. Needless to say my cherry 1967 Impala convertible is not going to be making the trip with me, and will be moving on to a new owner  So, I've been looking around at what to get and I think it is time to scratch the BMW itch I've always had since childhood. I'd be buying a car here in LA and driving it up. So, I need some tips from you guys as I don't know exactly what I want yet and I've only just started looking. I don't know what my budget is until the Impala sells, but let's say around $8k. Probably looking for a 4door especially since I'll be using it to move. I love the body styles on ~92-99 models (E36?) so I guess I'll start looking there. Unless of course a newer option is better for me - I certainly don't mind newer styles either. I shouldn't be driving long commutes up there, I really just need something solid to get me around town. I'm not sure how the job situation will pan out so I need to keep repair budgets in mind. I know I should probably go with a Honda or something but I have to enjoy what I drive. I like diving into the engine compartment and doing any work I can, so I figure an older model is better on that end. Oh wise AI BMW nuts, what would you be looking for if you were in my situation? There's so many models out there and I need some help narrowing them down. Any help would be awesome
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Sep 23, 2008 22:13
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I figure an older model is better on that end. You are looking for a 6-cyl E34. That's a chassis code for the BMW 5-series from '89-96. Modern electrics, sensible, and aside from a couple common issues, drat near bulletproof for as long as you want to drive them. My recommendation would be a 94-95 525i, bonus points for wagons and manual transmissions. Maintenance records a plus: A quick CL search reveals such jems as: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/851193215.html http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/849413139.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/852431190.html Very very doable to have a reliable, slick-driving sedan for under $5k. Ninja: E36s are great, I've owned a few. Sedans can be found fairly cheap and are fairly practical, but for longer trips/bigger families I'd go for the E34.
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Sep 23, 2008 22:48
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Wow, nice work. Looks like it never even happened (well, except for the scorch marks). Did E30s come with those insulating pads that go on the underside of the hood? If so you might be able to scrounge one up in a junkyard and it will be like the fire never happened. I currently have a fire extinguisher under my driver's seat. I'm pretty sure it's stock, or at least OEM since it has a BMW logo on it. Can kinda see it in this pic:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.
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Sep 23, 2008 23:20
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Sterndotstern posted:You are looking for a 6-cyl E34... Wonderful, thank you so much. The mid-90s 5 series have always been my favorite style, so it's exciting to hear that they're solid to boot. I definitely need the 5 series, I mistook the E36 code to mean four door as well. Thanks again. I got all excited looking at those CL postings and realizing how affordable they are  I'm a single dude so I think I'll pass on the wagon option. I'm also ashamed to admit I haven't learned manual yet, but maybe it's time. None of my friends or family have one so that could be tough though.What are the common issues I should be looking out for, fixes and upgrades I should note in listings, etc?
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Sep 24, 2008 00:02
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I'm also ashamed to admit I haven't learned manual yet, but maybe it's time. None of my friends or family have one so that could be tough though. Its time to learn. A BMW manual is a must. When I bought my first manual car, the dealer showed me how to drive it off the lot, and I picked it up from there. Find a kind dealer and you may be in luck.
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Sep 24, 2008 00:07
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E36 is the 92-99 3-series, which is smaller than a 5-series but does come in four door, two door or convertible. Also take a look the E30, which is the prior generation 3-series, although that does have the "older" body style compared to the E36 which still looks pretty modern for its age. For $8k you should be able to swing a decent E36 and have a few thousand left for repairs and maintenance, which is where you want to be. Common problems are suspension and a cooling system that might be a time bomb, but both can be replaced. The 328i is (I believe?) the fastest non-M E36, I'd start my search there. Here's one that's a little on the pricy side and isn't a 4-door, but you can get the idea: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/851284534.html
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Sep 24, 2008 02:52
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So I've had my eye on BMW, especially the older M3's for a long while now. I've never owned a BMW, but I think I'm ready to join the club. The cover of the Oct 2008 Grassroots Motorsports (All 4 Generations of M3's) helped me along quite a bit, as did the article that compared all the M3 generations. I'm looking for a daily driver but with a kick, and I want to be able to autocross with it if I had the desire. From everything I've read and seen, M3's fit the bill perfectly for my needs. I'm definitely a BMW newbie, but this thread has helped a lot with explaining the codes and stuff to me. Thanks for the great OP by the way. So, looking at the M3's in the article and various websites, I'm leaning toward the 1995-1999 E36 model M3's. From what I've read so far it's not as sporty as the first generation, and not as powerful as the later models. But that doesn't mean it's not a sporty car, just not as sporty as the original E30, which from what I've seen and read is a brilliantly fun car to drive, if a little under-powered. Also the last two generations are a little out of my price-range, so if I do buy an M3, it'll probably be an E36. So what kind of details should I worry about while I'm shopping? Should I completely ignore any M3 with over 100k miles? 150k? what kind of engine and suspension wear should I look for besides the obvious stuff? I'm not famaliar with BMW's engines so I don't know if they have issues that are common and should be looked for when looking to buy. Should I avoid any engine mods people put on these things? Should I look for a bone-stock car? I'm seeing a lot of E36 M3's for under 10k, but they have like 150k+ miles. Is this a good deal? Will this car fall apart on me after 200k miles? I know this is a lot of questions, but it's hard to find a resource as good as this thread for accounts from real people. Thanks in advance for all your help, and great thread! Hopefully I can join you guys in BMW Love soon.
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Sep 24, 2008 15:02
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JohnnyDangerously posted:Want's an M3 The M3 certainly would be a good daily driver/track use combo. The E36 generation is probably the least maintenance intensive M3 in the US because it uses fewer specialized Motorsport parts. The S50/52 engines also don't demand as much in maintenance as the earlier S14 and later S54 engines (no valves to adjust). That doesn't mean you can neglect it, as neglecting any BMW will lead to headaches later on. That leads into the next point. BMW problems and important maintenance issues are very well documented among enthusiasts and the lifespan of various parts on each model is pretty well known. Example: the M50/52 motors had poo poo cooling systems. Expect the water pumps to fail around 60,000 miles and the rest of the cooling system to die at about 100,000. Suspension parts? 50,000-100,000 miles depending on the car. Basically if you do a Google search for "E36 M3 common problems", you'll find what you need to know. In general, after about 175,000 miles, you should feel MORE comfortable buying a BMW because by that point, most things that you might not have replaced earlier will have totally failed and been replaced already. Things are a little more dicey in the 100k-175k range because things might be badly worn, but the owner might not want to replace it until it fails completely. So what does this mean for you? If you're not savvy enough to thoroughly look over the car by yourself, when you find a car you like, get a pre-purchase inspection! It will cost you $100-200 and is money well spent. If it comes up clean, great! If not, you can walk away OR use the list of "to-dos" to talk the owner down in price. Not doing this, especially on an M car, is like flushing money down the drain. You also want service records, preferably since the car was new. The more the better. You're looking for regular oil changes, brake fluid flushes, coolant flushes, suspension parts replacement and a general sense that the vehicle was cared for. Evidence of common failure items being replaced is important as well. That being said, on an E36, pay attention to the following: - Cooling system: The cooling system should have been overhauled to some degree by 100,000 miles. Water pumps and thermostat housing take a poo poo, as do the radiator necks. This will cook the engine unless you pull over IMMEDIATELY and shut the car off. - Rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs): wear out and cause sloppy rear handling and mysterious clunks from the back. - Rear upper shock mounts: similar to the above - Shocks on the M cars are usually toast at 50,000 miles intervals. - Play in any ball joints - Transmission mounts, motor mounts, diff mounts - Window regulators/motors - Final stage resistor (look for HVAC controls that don't work properly) If you can get documented evidence that the trouble spots were taken care of (eg: cooling system replaced in the last 10,000 miles) then you're all set. DON'T take the owner's word for it. That's just a quick overview. I'm sure others will have more advice. Good luck with the search!
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Sep 24, 2008 16:01
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JohnnyDangerously posted:So what kind of details should I worry about while I'm shopping? http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=55 Sterndotstern on p26 posted:With $2500, you can pretty much address everything that needs addressing: a Bentley manual, cooling, suspension, bushings front and rear, fluids etc. Obviously you need to test drive the car before buying it, but the base mechanicals are really stout. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 15-year-old M3 with 10,000 track miles on it. Sterndotstern on p21 posted:My rule of thumb when considering any used BMW, especially E36s is: tack on no less than $1500 for parts to refresh the car post purchase. JohnnyDangerously posted:Should I completely ignore any M3 with over 100k miles? 150k? JohnnyDangerously posted:what kind of engine and suspension wear should I look for besides the obvious stuff? I'm not famaliar with BMW's engines so I don't know if they have issues that are common and should be looked for when looking to buy. JohnnyDangerously posted:Should I avoid any engine mods people put on these things? Should I look for a bone-stock car? JohnnyDangerously posted:I'm seeing a lot of E36 M3's for under 10k, but they have like 150k+ miles. Is this a good deal? Will this car fall apart on me after 200k miles? As an aside, the '95's are significantly cheaper, OBD-1 (meaning less O2 sensors to replace), have a slightly different front suspension geometry (nearly zero toe change when lowered), and IMO are the most desirable E36 M. We found a 89k mile car in PRISTINE condition for $8500 almost two years ago. They're easily under $10k even after refreshing the poo poo out of them as detailed above. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Sep 24, 2008 |
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Sep 24, 2008 16:08
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These responses have been golden. I really appreciate the time you guys took to write them up for me. My BMW hunt begins today!
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Sep 24, 2008 20:59
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I just purchased a 2001 E46 330Ci and I am picking it up tomorrow. I had never driven a BMW before and after test driving it I bought the car. It is a Black 5 speed with the sport package and 80,000 Miles. I also picked up a 3 year bumper to bumper unlimited miles warranty on it. The car is in amazing condition and I could eat off of the engine. I was surprised how much power it had. I am going to have to be extremely careful seeing as how my last car was a Prizm. I am going to either have to practice some serious self control or buy a valentine 1 or STI driver. I will post some pictures of it when I have the chance.
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Sep 25, 2008 18:23
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Voltage posted:I am going to have to be extremely careful seeing as how my last car was a Prizm. I am going to either have to practice some serious self control or buy a valentine 1 or STI driver. I will post some pictures of it when I have the chance. There are no words for how true this is. I had been driving my ex-roommate's Civic for months before buying my 325i and I had become used to being basically invisible to the police. Scored a nice two point driving award within three weeks, then had a close call on a second one a few days later, even while driving with an 8500 X50. Radar detectors don't help when the cop is coming up the onramp at 70 and I pass him like he's standing still, nor is it much help when I'm the only car on a country road and he hits me with laser.
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Sep 25, 2008 21:27
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^^^^Definitely. Upgraded from a 1993 Camry Station wagon (with extraneous roof rack adding to drag) to 2002 530. I have so far managed to get away with warnings. 530 fast. To add value--I managed to scrape a parking block with one side of the bottom of the bumper. No big deal cosmetically, but it seems that it jammed the hood release somehow. Is there any good guide to unjam said hood release? Basically, I can pop the hood from the inside, but the second latch is stuck on something, possibly the fan housing.
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Sep 25, 2008 22:08
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wwb posted:^^^^Definitely. Upgraded from a 1993 Camry Station wagon (with extraneous roof rack adding to drag) to 2002 530. I have so far managed to get away with warnings. 530 fast. Please tell me you got the sports package. Better yet, post pictures. The e39 530i is just such a great overall car.
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Sep 26, 2008 02:57
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Sports package was a requirement. I'll post some pics when I get some decent ones, right now all I have is a few phone shots.
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Sep 26, 2008 14:31
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I got to drive my dad's '98 528iT with Sport Package a few days ago when I had to go get the tires balanced. That is such a sweet car to drive. I swear that BMW bent physics to make the E39 drive the way it does, it really does not feel nearly as big as it is.
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Sep 26, 2008 16:22
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Alright, I went to start my car today (88 325iX) and it wouldn't crank, again. Starter motor clicks like mad when I try. I boosted it once and that was a stopgap solution, but I definetely think it needs a new battery. Service records indicate it was last changed in 2000 so I'm kinda surprised it even lasted this long. Now my question is are there any batteries to avoid with an e30? I dug through my manual and it's pretty much unclear, and google wasn't all that helpful either.
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Sep 27, 2008 17:43
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Crustashio posted:Alright, I went to start my car today (88 325iX) and it wouldn't crank, again. Starter motor clicks like mad when I try. I boosted it once and that was a stopgap solution, but I definetely think it needs a new battery. Service records indicate it was last changed in 2000 so I'm kinda surprised it even lasted this long. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. When I bought mine last Dec. I had the PO buy a new battery for it since it wouldn't start without being jumped and he grabbed the cheapest thing at a no-name store in bumfuck Iowa. It got me through a cold Minnesota winter and is still going strong...depending on climate, get the most CCA you can.
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Sep 27, 2008 17:46
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So I thought my mind was made up to get a '05 or '06 G35, but after getting to drive a brand new 520d on the Autobahn from Nurgberg to Vienna, I'm going to reconsider things. For what I can get for $21-23k for an 05 or 06 G35, what models (assuming a 3 series) would I be using as a comparative to the G35, especially in that price range? I'm planning to fly to San Fran (or anywhere along the West Coast) and then drive it to Vancouver. Just to note that I will be using this car as a daily driver and while gas milage isn't a major concern (considering the cars mentioned above), it will be seen as a good bonus?
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Sep 27, 2008 22:54
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Filthee Fingas posted:G35 If you want a newer car, you're looking for a 2005-6 ZHP-package E46. If you don't mind going slightly older, you can get ~2002 M3 or M5 for similar money. There is no more capable all-around car for $25k than an M5.
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Sep 29, 2008 15:08
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Sterndotstern posted:$25k than an M5. A $25k M5 will not be a $25k M5 after you replace everything that needs replacing. You need DEEP pockets to own an M5. The 330i ZHP is an excellent choice.
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Sep 29, 2008 17:11
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Brock Landers posted:A $25k M5 will not be a $25k M5 after you replace everything that needs replacing. You need DEEP pockets to own an M5. The 330i ZHP is an excellent choice. I been looking and I'm liking the 330Ci model..is there any difference between that model and the 330i? Also, I found this car for sale in Vancouver: http://virtualrain.blogspot.com/2008/09/2002-bmw-330ci-for-sale.html My plan was to buy a car in the US and bring it to Vancouver...is this a bad price given the high milage? (only reason why I would ask is because I would avoid any GST/PST and bypass any duty and FX costs). EDIT: His license plate doesn't provide any reassurance that this is a good deal...
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Sep 29, 2008 18:08
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Filthee Fingas posted:I been looking and I'm liking the 330Ci model..is there any difference between that model and the 330i? Also, I found this car for sale in Vancouver: The difference is one is a coupe and one is a sedan.  The ZHP is a package that adds Alcantra seats (or optional leather) and Alcantra steering wheel, more aggressive cam, higher redline, a 3.07 (instead of 2.93) rear end, shadowline trim, different wheels, and an "M-sport" suspension that sits somewhere between the "normal" ZCP Sports Package and an M3's suspension. Probably a few other things I'm forgetting, but those are the big ones. It's regarded as one of the best examples of an E46 available and you can get the package in the 330i or 330Ci. No idea about Canadian prices on cars, but it looks like it's in good shape and was well cared for. Ask to see all service records and get a BMW dealer to check it out for you. The seller should agree if he's not trying to hide anything. Cost you about $150 (in the US, at least) and it's worth it.
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Sep 29, 2008 18:28
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Something interesting happened to my E36 328i while on a road trip yesterday. I suddenly heard a very loud noise in the dash, like the blower was suddenly on high. I turn the HVAC to the lowest blower setting, and sure enough, it acts like its on high. This lasted for five minutes and has been fine every since. Is it my blower resistor? Is it my final stage unit? Or is my car possessed (I was leaving a Civil War battlefield, Battle Ground, IN)?
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Sep 29, 2008 19:21
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CornHolio posted:Or is my car possessed (I was leaving a Civil War battlefield, Battle Ground, IN)? Probably just had some kind of ghost, spirit or specter stuck in your microfilter. Nothing to worry about. Honestly, I'm not qualified to answer the tech question. Any smokey smell come out?
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Sep 29, 2008 20:20
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Sterndotstern posted:Probably just had some kind of ghost, spirit or specter stuck in your microfilter. Nothing to worry about. Nope. It's like it never happened. 
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Sep 29, 2008 20:24
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I've run into a little snag with my e30 project. I'm doing a manual swap into a 1986 325e and was hoping one of you glorious goons could help me out. Attached to the back of the clutch pedal there is a large spring with a rod that is supposed to sit on a perch on the firewall. This spring is to return the pedal to its unloaded position as well as do the pedal travel adjustment. It's my understanding that when this is properly setup the pedal will stop when it bottoms out this spring, but in my case, it pivots the spring past 90 degrees and sucks the pedal down to the floor of the car. This is clearly not right. I'm not sure what year of car the pedals I have came out of, so I'm not sure if that is what the issue is, like if i have pedals from a year when they had a different firewall mount or something. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? If someone could take a picture of their pedals under the dash, where the clutch spring is I would love you forever. I'm working on the car tomorrow night so I can take a picture or video of what happens then, but hopefully someone can shed some light on this before that so I can fix whatever the problem is.
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Sep 29, 2008 22:33
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So im just about due for my first inspection with my e36 (im almost to the yellow hash mark on that thing under the odometer). What are they gonna charge me for just the inspection. (i live in cleveland if that matters) Arwox fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Sep 29, 2008 |
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Sep 29, 2008 23:35
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Arwox posted:So im just about due for my first inspection with my e36 (im almost to the yellow hash mark on that think under the odometer). What are they gonna charge me for just the inspection. A chunk, depends on what's busted. Inspections are basically fluid changes with a thorough peek 'n poke of all the wear items, then they present you a list of the things that need addressing. So if you need (for example) new front control arm bushings and a new O2 sensor, you'll pay less than if you needed a new power steering rack and a full brake job. Edit: I know you're looking for a number, figure $120-300 if nothing is wrong.
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Sep 29, 2008 23:42
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Hey guys! After reading through this thread, I want to first say that I am amazed at the overall amount of BMW knowledge, and sound advice that many of you guys bring to the table it really is a positive atmosphere. So I've driven a 1999 subaru outback for the past 10 years and it has done me very well, especially going up to the mountains which the AWD helps a huge amount with during the snowy season. Unfortunately the service shop just told me that the value of the repairs for the car are worth more then kbb so I am looking into other options. I've always loved the look of BMWs, but I became even more interested in them after driving my friend's 07 328i while he was out of town. The cornering, the drive, the pep, the feel, everything just felt right. Quite the different experience than I have had say driving Mercedes, which feel like large engines strapped to archaic opulent chassis with large buttons. That being said, and the fact that I am now in the market for a new car, I've started to vaguely look through craigslist, dealerships, etc. Now, like other recent first time bmw thread posters, I really have no idea what I am doing. But a used good looking 00's etc. bmw is enticing, and I found this particular one: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/858464689.html On picture value it looks spotless, and plus it has AWD which would allow me to still get up to the mountains! And the price of $13,250 seems pretty reasonable. They even have a carfax link, which although I am not an expert, seems pretty legit. The biggest downside seems to be that it has 94k miles. It was mentioned in an earlier post that one should perhaps be wary of bmws between 100k-175k because they could have parts that are just starting to need to be replaced... Anyways, if any of you have thoughts on this car, or just the xi in general for snow related driving I would appreciate the advice. Thanks!
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Sep 30, 2008 01:37
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The connection between the upper hose and my radiator exploded while I was driving my E36 today, accompanied by a popping noise, the smell of coolant, and some smoke from the engine bay so I immediately pulled over and got the car shutoff. The temp gauge was up in the red, but I didn't see it till after I stopped so I'm not sure how long it was high for. I was in the middle of nowhere between DIA and Denver, so I had to get a tow to a nearby shop. What should a full cooling system replacement run at a shop for an E36? (Radiator, Thermostat, Upper/Lower hose, etc.) Looks like all the parts should run around $300 or so plus markup, how many hours should it take? They are quoting me $1200 (includes $150 for tow/diagnostic) which is absolute robbery unless there is something I'm missing. I'm going to give them a call in the morning and try and get a more reasonable number out of them, otherwise I need to try and find a truck/trailer and garage space to do it myself.
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Oct 1, 2008 03:40
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Rakekniven posted:do it myself. Yesh. DIY it man. See, the garage is going to charge you for BMW parts, and will charge you BMW rates for labor. Figure 4-5 hours @ $125/hr + BMW parts + delivery charges, all wrapped up in a nice little bow and passed on to you. All you really need to do this job is a socket set and a skinny 32mm wrench which is widely available at any bike shop.
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Oct 1, 2008 04:43
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Rakekniven posted:M50/M52 cooling issues Parts should be no more than $500 and figure a Saturday to put it all in. No special tools other than a 32mm wrench for the fan nut. Oh and make sure to put a new fan clutch in while you're at it.
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Oct 1, 2008 12:54
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If you do have it done at a shop, I've heard $400 for labor thrown around before.
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Oct 1, 2008 13:57
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I just read about the BMW E30 333i.  Basically a South Africa only model, with the M30 senior six engine. From Wikipedia: quote:
neat.
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Oct 1, 2008 20:27
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My dad went to check the coolant level in his 1998 540i today and discovered that the level indicator float had broken. Are the plastic bits now floating around in the expansion tank a major problem? How can I get a replacement? I can't find it on RealOEM and I'm not sure if it's sold with the expansion tank.
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Oct 2, 2008 03:51
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Brock Landers posted:Parts should be no more than $500 and figure a Saturday to put it all in. No special tools other than a 32mm wrench for the fan nut. Oh and make sure to put a new fan clutch in while you're at it. Figure out what caused the problem before you throw parts at it. Mine did the same thing but it was because the fan was an inch closer to the shroud/radiator than it should have been. It destroyed everything. This ended up being because of dead motor mounts and everything was sliding forward under braking. The fan clutch is probably fine...
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Oct 2, 2008 05:15
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ynotony posted:Figure out what caused the problem before you throw parts at it. Mine did the same thing but it was because the fan was an inch closer to the shroud/radiator than it should have been. It destroyed everything. This ended up being because of dead motor mounts and everything was sliding forward under braking. Trust me. You want to replace everything in the cooling system. Too many people have replaced just what broke only to find a few months later that something else breaks. These cooling systems are a very well known failure point and people don't even bother trusting old parts anymore.
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Oct 2, 2008 16:05
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