|
Atticus_1354 posted:At least you can have some fun on the job. Maybe I will start looking in to a parks service job like I keep telling myself I should. I think I need a job that is outside. Oh yeah, the actual working part is fun, it's the 24/7 lifestyle of managing a campground that's getting old. I love working outside too, but dealing with the elements sometimes makes me wish I had a cushy job indoors. We've had so much rain here, it's made things a real pain in the rear end. You can see the standing water in the second pic, this whole place is like a swamp.....Makes for some fun wheelin' though. 
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 03:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 17, 2024 00:50 |
|
|
leica posted:Oh yeah, the actual working part is fun, it's the 24/7 lifestyle of managing a campground that's getting old. I love working outside too, but dealing with the elements sometimes makes me wish I had a cushy job indoors. We've had so much rain here, it's made things a real pain in the rear end. You can see the standing water in the second pic, this whole place is like a swamp.....Makes for some fun wheelin' though. What part of the country? Be careful in those swampy areas. I had a spot of mud just give out under me and set me straight down on my axles. I have front and rear lockers with wide 33" MT tires and I couldn't even move an inch forward or back. I think there was a underground spring or runoff there that I didn't know about. I winched myself a foot forward and it was like driving up a wall out of the mud. No middle ground between solid and pure mud. I am convinced that little spot has no hard bottom. Thank god for my winch. Here you can see the tire marks and the drag mark from my rear differential starts at the small puddle.  That stuff stuck to my tires like nothing else I have ever seen. It was like someone dumped Elmers glue in with red clay. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 03:59
|
|
|
My Jeep has a problem. It's a '97 ZJ 4.0L 4x4. Cats are removed and it's got a homemade intake setup. Aside from this, the motor's completely stock. Last spring, it started to cut out on me, as if choking on bad gas. I put in some water remover and fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, and the problem seemed to clear up. A few tanks of gas later (not from cheapo stations) and the problem returned, except far worse. Now not only did it cut out, but RPMs would drop when slowing down, and I'd have to shift to neutral and keep my foot on the gas to keep it from dying at intersections. I took a trip down to my parents' house in southern Missouri (I'm from eastern Iowa), and I averaged about 30mph because I was frequently stopped trying to figure out what the gently caress was going on. I limped it to an autozone and had them scan for codes, and the CEL for the o2 sensor was the only thing that was coming up. It's been throwing that code for years without issue. I then realized that if I kept overdrive off on the highway and kept the RPMs up around 3000 that it'd run fine. Temps stayed normal and I made it to my parents' without further issue. I left from there to study abroad, where I still am today. The Jeep's been at home and my step-dad has been working on it as much as possible. He's replaced the fuel pump, TPS, o2 sensors, cleaned the injectors, and blown out the fuel lines/rail with air. After his last fix (the TPS), the problem went away for about 100 miles, then came back just like it had been before. I was hoping to sell it while I'm overseas, but obviously we can't if it's not drivable. Does anyone have a clue what the gently caress happened to my Grand Cherokee?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 04:11
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:What part of the country? Western New York. And I know what you mean by being carefull, after I finished cutting up the tree I had a hard time getting out of that spot. But as long as I'm on the grounds I have a safety net in case I get stuck: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 04:18
|
|
|
leica posted:Western New York. Ok that definitely kicks the poo poo out of my winch.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 04:31
|
|
|
BigKOfJustice posted:Looks just like a 2.5"-3.0" screen size rebranded garmin unit. [I'm guessing its based on a older GPS view] Honestly after working at the place selling the Lowrance units to all the desert racers, I've never really liked them much. They still are basically marine chart plotters with at-best ultra basic route planning. Also the smallest (540c) is the same as the largest (9200) in everything except raw screen size and $1200, there are no feature or benefit changes. The 9200c has a hard drive (worthless) and dual card slots, but thats it. Lowrances can't stand desert racing, the return levels on the units was pretty high, and the antennas (which are $200 each out of warranty) probably reach 75%. They don't do anything people want from a car GPS, and still break in the desert. I did really like the Lowrance XOG, its their tiny handheld. Reads the Lowrance maps and does turn-by-turn and plays music. I thought it was a good alternative to the cheapest Garmin Nuvi, but the newer Nuvi models do traffic and stuff, which is pretty neat.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 04:49
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:Honestly after working at the place selling the Lowrance units to all the desert racers, I've never really liked them much. They still are basically marine chart plotters with at-best ultra basic route planning. Also the smallest (540c) is the same as the largest (9200) in everything except raw screen size and $1200, there are no feature or benefit changes. The 9200c has a hard drive (worthless) and dual card slots, but thats it. Lowrances can't stand desert racing, the return levels on the units was pretty high, and the antennas (which are $200 each out of warranty) probably reach 75%. They don't do anything people want from a car GPS, and still break in the desert. I think Ill end up going with a garmin quest 2. Its essentially a trail guide but with more memory and for a whole lot cheaper. The nice thing is that you can buy the mount that holds the trail guide and the quest will fit nicely in it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 17:25
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:Honestly after working at the place selling the Lowrance units to all the desert racers, I've never really liked them much. They still are basically marine chart plotters with at-best ultra basic route planning. Also the smallest (540c) is the same as the largest (9200) in everything except raw screen size and $1200, there are no feature or benefit changes. The 9200c has a hard drive (worthless) and dual card slots, but thats it. Lowrances can't stand desert racing, the return levels on the units was pretty high, and the antennas (which are $200 each out of warranty) probably reach 75%. They don't do anything people want from a car GPS, and still break in the desert. I agree, the lowrance is feature limited, but garmin and other vendors don't make a GPS that I want. I don't need directions to a restaurant or to plot a route in LA, I want a large bright screen, topographical data and the ability to set way points so I don't get lost in the desert or mountains. I only use the GPS when I'm off road, otherwise, that and all the race radios gets hauled out after each trip. Driving a soft top hummer full of electronic equipment is like having a big "rob me" sign plastered on it. loving vultures. Another friend had his chase truck stripped when he was in Barstow for an event a few weeks back. He didn't tack weld his light mounts and thieves made off with 2000$ worth of light force lights. I guess I was making the point that there doesn't seem to be a GPS that does both off road and on road that well. An on road gps is useless to me since it'll be stolen if I ever leave it in the streets .As for breaking, well we're lucky so far on our teams equipment. But the cost to replace a gps is drop in the bucket vs fuel, tires, and other wear and tear items a team has to deal with. If garmin made a unit that had a 5-8" screen in a rugged enclosure, I'll be all over it, but I don't see a product like that yet. The street pilot 7x00 series comes close but it doesn't seem to have many functions for off road use. The smaller 2-3" ones would be fine for driving around town but when you are bouncing around the desert you can't see poo poo on the screen.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 17:53
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a good rear tire rack that will hold a couple of gerry cans and a highlift for a JK?? I got my wishlist going 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 19:44
|
|
|
incredibull posted:It seems like quite a few Jeep owners get their soft top work done at a marine shop, so you should at least ask around at a few shops. Their workload is probably going down around this time of the year. Good call, talked to a marine canvas place today and he's going to replace the zipper.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 20:36
|
|
|
angryhampster posted:My Jeep has a problem. NVM. Problem solved. IAC motor was bad. '07 Grand Cherokee for sale with shitloads of new parts, $4500! Located near Cape Girardeau, MO.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2008 23:04
|
|
|
leica posted:Western New York. Where in WNY? I'm from Jamestown and can't think of where that could be.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2008 22:53
|
|
|
Hey, chiming in here again with my '89 XJ 4.0. I posted a thread on Naxja (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=970124) about my distributor. This is the post if you can't be bothered to click the link: quote:I pulled my distributor today to replace the gasket (actually the gasket wasn't even there) and I noticed that the middle of the gears were all worn and shiney. By worn I mean that the middle was about half the width of the ends of the gear. So anyone know a thing or two about distributors?
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2008 23:45
|
|
|
Your pic doesn't work. Are you saying that the distributor shaft can be moved up and down by a quarter of an inch? If that's really what you mean, that's hugely bad. It's not necessary to replace the cam. What you need to do is determine if the distributor is worn, and replace the distributor if the shaft has excessive play before the distributor eats the drive gear off of the camshaft. Do you have a misfire issue at all?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 01:27
|
|
|
Aran posted:Where in WNY? I'm from Jamestown and can't think of where that could be. Right outside of Angelica. Ok, I have a question for northern XJ owners. I'm going to be looking at a 97 XJ and I need to know where to look for rust. I just moved here from Florida where there is no such thing as rust, so I have no clue where rust commonly resides on an XJ. The owner has said there's NO RUST but I find it hard to believe. Also it's a manual, how are they? Any other tips for a 97 XJ would be great.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 01:38
|
|
|
leica posted:Right outside of Angelica. I'm sure someone will give you a better answer, but I looked at a xj from Pennsylvania and it was pretty obvious. I would shine a light in to the "frame" and check things like the transmission mounts. I would also bang on the floor some as that can get pretty rusted out. Also check the gas tank and the top side of any skid plates where water can pool. Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Oct 9, 2008 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 01:47
|
|
|
incredibull posted:Your pic doesn't work.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. ^^The distributor gear and camshaft sortof look like that. When I had the distributor out, the distributor shaft would move up and down a quarter inch from the part that the cap screws on to. I'll take a video tomorrow of it in the engine (it's too dark right now.) I do have a misfire issue.. When it's cold, it'll run really rough, and it'll frequently stall on the first or second stop sign. When it's warmed up it runs good but still chugs as soon as you let the clutch out and give it gas. Not sure if it's a timing problem. The reason I took the distributor out in the first place is to fix an oil leak - I could see it bubbling and coming out of the block haha. MrZig fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Oct 9, 2008 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 03:35
|
|
|
If you're willing to spend the money, a Garmin Colorado is an awesome unit. It's a little small for an in-car unit as it's mainly designed as a hand-held mapping GPS, but loaded with both the topo and street maps, it kicks some serious rear end. It also does full 3d mapping, and has the best interface and controls that I've ever seen on a GPS unit so far. Well worth the $600.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 03:55
|
|
|
MrZig posted:
Now I'll preface this by stating that I'm not a master engine builder in any way, and have only torn down a few engines, but that looks pretty bad. It's probably time for a new distributor, and if the cam drive gear looks exactly like that, I take back what I said earlier; the cam likely needs to be replaced as well. Even a high mileage distributor gear should look something like this: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2098/2404268602_ddf0bda9cf.jpg?v=0 You have enough play in the distributor shaft that it's probably allowed the cam to "push" the distributor shaft up, throwing off the gear mesh enough to eat away the teeth. It won't be long until a chunk of gear gets chipped off of that, so be glad you caught it now. incredibull fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Oct 9, 2008 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 06:23
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:I'm sure someone will give you a better answer, but I looked at a xj from Pennsylvania and it was pretty obvious. I would shine a light in to the "frame" and check things like the transmission mounts. I would also bang on the floor some as that can get pretty rusted out. Also check the gas tank and the top side of any skid plates where water can pool. Atticus pretty much hit on the big areas. As a Buffalo resident, the salt here will eat through the floors and unibody of an XJ if they don't get a good underbody wash every couple weeks. I know a lot of people who swear by the 5-speed. I have an auto personally so i cant speak from personal experience on that matter. But to reiterate the biggest places to look are the floorboards, "frame",and mounts. Depending on where that XJ has been around here you may also want to check under the fenders as the soil around here likes to eat metal.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2008 12:53
|
|
|
Also what are good ways to prevent rust? My current XJ is rust free and I'd like to keep it that way. I've had a few ideas.....Like slathering the entire underside with POR15 and/or buying a pressure washer and spraying off the underside with HOT water every few weeks.....Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2008 00:26
|
|
|
leica posted:Also what are good ways to prevent rust? My current XJ is rust free and I'd like to keep it that way. I've had a few ideas.....Like slathering the entire underside with POR15 and/or buying a pressure washer and spraying off the underside with HOT water every few weeks.....Any ideas? Wellp, the only way I have found is to live in California. I had an '86 XJ earlier this year that had zero body rot. It was from Cali. Water is your biggest fear unless you live in a Nothern state that sees snow and SALT. Look into the cheap rubberized undercoating spray cans at Wally World. Give the underside a nice hot cleaning and let dry for a few days or more. Then spray the body seams and such with this nasty stuff. I am going to hit WalMart and get more of the Mar-Hyde Rubberized Undercoat spray and hit up the underside of my '99 too. I am still wearing this crap from this morning with I was spraying my '84s new floorpans. Evil stuff. Here is what I found on my '84 XJ a few weekends ago.. YAY! It's fun when the front of the drivers seat is tipping forward and being held up by the carpet.  Aint life grand.. Went through a few metal cutoff wheels for my grinders while removing all the cancer down to clean metal. Heavy zinc paint on all the exposed fresh metal before the new sheetmetal goes in.  But wait! After about 40 hours of heavy guage sheet metal work and serious frame rebuilding with angle iron, I have this now!  Finally get fresh heavy steel for my new front seats to bolt to! Drilling through 1/4 angle steel on the frame was lame since I can't find my regular drill and am stuck using my rechargable that lasts about 20 minutes per charge. w00t. No more rocking chair for me while driving!  Finally done. Need to hit the underside with heavy undercoating now too.  
Slack3r fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Oct 10, 2008 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2008 07:42
|
|
|
Sweet jesus. That's why I'm a bit thankful to live in the PNW, and the west coast in general. The only rigs you really ever find rust on are the ones that came from out of state.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2008 16:47
|
|
|
incredibull posted:Sweet jesus. That's why I'm a bit thankful to live in the PNW, and the west coast in general. The only rigs you really ever find rust on are the ones that came from out of state. Yeah, up here, it's just us people who rust.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2008 19:18
|
|
|
incredibull posted:Sweet jesus. That's why I'm a bit thankful to live in the PNW, and the west coast in general. The only rigs you really ever find rust on are the ones that came from out of state. It's taking a lot to get used to coming from Florida. I've looked at a few cars for winter and the rust is just horrible. A 97 Subaru I looked at had a head gasket leaking, and if it was a Florida car it would have been worth fixing. This one had enough rust that it just wasn't worth it. Hopefully this 97 XJ I'm going to look at won't be too bad, but for the price they're asking it would have to be awful for me not to buy it.....Looks like I may be the proud owner of two XJ's.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2008 21:15
|
|
|
My XJ came out of California... and has spent a year here in PA. I don't want to look under it more than I have to.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2008 00:15
|
|
|
So evidently me and BigFuzzyJesus's dad just bought a '60-ish CJ-5. Any issues to look for/correct? It's supposedly in very good shape and yellow. edit: more details! it's a 1976 CJ-7 w/ the 304 V8, auto trans and a/c. rubbersoul fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Oct 13, 2008 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2008 01:37
|
|
|
 Wheee I may be joining the SA Jeep contingent. Granted, the only offroading it will do is likely to be slippery riverbanks to grab my kayak, but it will be driven in "impassible" snow covered roads many many times this winter.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2008 21:29
|
|
|
FugeesTeenMom92 posted:
That things clean...too clean, go dirty it up a bit!
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2008 21:34
|
|
|
Is $3500 cash a good price for a 2000 with 98K or what? It only has ONE loving OWNER! I'm so excited.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 00:20
|
|
|
I paid $2200 for mine with about $3k in aftermarket parts with 180k miles on it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 10:43
|
|
|
I paid just under 5 grand for my 99 SE (stripped) with 80k. Florida truck, one owner, like new.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 14:26
|
|
|
Rough Country 4.5" Lift. SYE. Flowmaster. 4.0HO. 4sp auto. Immaculate interior. 1993. 200,000 mi. 120psi on all 6. No issues except for minor stuff on the front end (cracked grill and top piece, cracked marker light. Fenders and hook are 100%). Colorado car. No Rust. No paint issues (fading, peeling, etc). Mine. $850*   I'm pretty pleased. I've been looking for a 4x4 for a while, since I got rid of my Tacoma. This will fit the bill nicely and probably (definitely) be better off-road. It is the premium Up-Country edition so it has nice captain's chairs with nice material and arms rests and junk. PO took his aftermarket head unit so I will have to replace it with a cheap one from Wal-Mart or something. *I traded a car that I paid $750 for and put about $100 into. I think I got a pretty good deal. I've never seen such a nice interior. Driver's seat frame is busted a bit though and causes some rocking (to be replaced with a junkyard seat frame. I think it might have an aftermarket rear hatch? Does that exist. It seems like it is non-metallic to me (I'd say CF but I'm guessing fiberglass?). Does that exist? Doesn't bother me much as the paint matches FLAWLESSLY in person.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 17:17
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:I think it might have an aftermarket rear hatch? Does that exist. It seems like it is non-metallic to me (I'd say CF but I'm guessing fiberglass?). Does that exist? Doesn't bother me much as the paint matches FLAWLESSLY in person. Nice jeep. I think all Cherokees had fiberglass rear hatches until 97+ when they went to metal. Not sure if it's 97 or another year, but that's factory.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 18:36
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:Driver's seat frame is busted a bit though and causes some rocking (to be replaced with a junkyard seat frame. Just have it welded, the seats you get in the junkyard will more than likely have the same problem or will break soon after you install it. Don't take it to an interior shop, they'll rape you. Take it apart, and take the frame to a local welder, or like in my case a friend that has a welder. I laid down some extra thick welds and reinforced it in a few places, that fucker is going nowhere now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 19:16
|
|
|
I've got a soon to be all electric Willy's that I will post pictures of tonight. Just came back for lunch to grab my camera.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2008 19:26
|
|
|
After reading through the whole thread, I'm pretty much set on getting a jeep. But wait! I already have one--sorta. My parents bought a 98 TJ "for fun," but they never use it and I borrow it constantly. My Integra is starting to act old, and I want to make it into a project car... so I'm asking for the wrangler. They don't use it and were planning to give it to my brother-in-law, but gently caress him, he lives across the country. It's a 5spd, white with one previous owner and 115,000 miles. Has a brand new BestTop and 31" tires. It's the 4 cylinder, but I'm okay with that if it's free. My 21st bday is in two weeks, so I'm going to see if they can just transfer the title over as a present. May or may not work, but I'm about to go for a ride in it right now because I love the thing so drat much. And the weather here in N. Florida is really nice tonight, and the top is off. I've caught a pretty bad bug for this stupid car. I'll take some pictures of it tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2008 02:15
|
|
|
I just joined the Jeep family this week. Picked up a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 with 147k miles. The driver's side door won't open from using the handle from the outside, the thermostat housing gasket leaks coolant constantly, the passenger front window will magically not roll up every now and then, and the transmission slips (a lot on the freeway).....But I paid $300 for it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2008 05:14
|
|
|
JaySB posted:I just joined the Jeep family this week. Picked up a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 with 147k miles. I wouldn't drive it (especially on the freeway) with the trans slipping.  My driver's door is kind of messed up. The hinge part that is supposed to be welded to the unibody is broken and instead loosely bolted in. I am going to see about re-welding it myself. How hard is it to take off a fender... they just unbolt I hope? This problem causes my door to sag a tiny bit and you have to shut it pretty hard and it still leaks a bit of air at the top. It is my one gripe about stuff on this Jeep that I didn't see when I bought it. Runs and drives great. Mechanically it is perfect. Just need to fix the seat and door (hopefully). The other cosmetic stuff is not a huge deal (cracked grill, etc).
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2008 15:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 17, 2024 00:50 |
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:I wouldn't drive it (especially on the freeway) with the trans slipping. Meh, it cost me $300....If it broke down on me tomorrow or caught on fire, or I took it and jumped it and rolled it, I'd get my money's worth.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2008 18:29
|
|