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Yeah, between my NA and my dad's NC, I can't say there's much handling difference that I noticed. That will change when I get around to loving with the suspension on mine, though 
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Oct 1, 2008 00:37
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laymil posted:If anyone near NJ wants to come pick up a set of stock 1990 alloys in mediocre condition with dry-rotted tires still mounted, let me know. If you want another set of four in the same condition, I think my roommate will let his go for $50 or so. Where in Jersey are you? North Jersey or Delaware Water Gap area, and I'll be out this weekend 
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Oct 1, 2008 03:09
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goku chewbacca posted:Where in Jersey are you? North Jersey or Delaware Water Gap area, and I'll be out this weekend PMed you. 07080 for anyone else wondering.
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Oct 1, 2008 03:51
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How bad is the auto-manual transmission on the NC Miatas? http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/cto/841180998.html I love British racing green. Seems a bit pricey however.
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Oct 5, 2008 06:41
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The automatic transmissions on NA/NB Miatas are terrible. It literally saps all of the fun out of the car. That 91 is expensive because it's a special edition with low miles.
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Oct 5, 2008 10:43
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Rated PG-34 posted:How bad is the auto-manual transmission on the NC Miatas?
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Oct 5, 2008 11:22
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joey deere posted:It's not too bad as pseudo-manual autos go in technical terms but it's not as involving as the manual. I remember someone in AI saying the manual in one of Mercedes-Benz's models was crappy compared to the SMG because the car was designed around the SMG and the manual was basically tacked on as an afterthought. That (except reversed) is what I felt driving the auto NC. It sounds kind of stupid but it didn't feel 'right'. Not MB, BMW, specifically the E60 M5.
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Oct 5, 2008 21:00
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Savington posted:Not MB, BMW, specifically the E60 M5. 
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Oct 5, 2008 21:40
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I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere in the last 53 pages, but search is down. My Google-fu got me nowhere. Whats the standard go-to replacement radiator? My plastic top endcap has a pinhole leak and is spraying coolant in a fine mist when it gets hot. Price is a factor. I'll have to buy ALL 8 HOSES since I'll have it drained. OEM or cheapies with plastic are ok. This one lasted 12 years/120k miles. Though I'd like to spend less, what do people think of the Mishimoto all-Alum? $255 shipped on eBay for a 52mm core. How does it compare to the Koyo 55mm?
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Oct 6, 2008 17:33
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joey deere posted:I probably should have realised that considering SMG is a BMW trademark. Eh, the analogy still holds since Mercedes manual transmissions - which are damned rare - are widely regarded as pure garbage. They've been developing the automatic so long and doing such a good job of it that it actually ends up being a drat good gearbox, and their sticks just suck.
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Oct 6, 2008 18:05
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goku chewbacca posted:I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere in the last 53 pages, but search is down. My Google-fu got me nowhere. Unless you're doing some serious power modding or you were having heat problems, there's no reason not to go with the OEM unless another better one is cheaper.
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Oct 6, 2008 19:37
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mobn posted:Unless you're doing some serious power modding or you were having heat problems, there's no reason not to go with the OEM unless another better one is cheaper. That's right, mobn! There's no need to spend an extra 50 bucks on an aluminum radiator when you can get a plastic one which will explode in another 120k miles. Not to mention that all a bigger core will do is allow engine temps to be lower, and the potential to future proof if he decides to go FI.
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Oct 6, 2008 19:43
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Phone posted:That's right, mobn! There's no need to spend an extra 50 bucks on an aluminum radiator when you can get a plastic one which will explode in another 120k miles. Not to mention that all a bigger core will do is allow engine temps to be lower, and the potential to future proof if he decides to go FI. gently caress a new radiator. Pinhole leaks are best filled with superglue, or perhaps a square of metal tape.
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Oct 6, 2008 19:52
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Savington posted:gently caress a new radiator. Pinhole leaks are best filled with superglue, or perhaps a square of metal tape. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesives_sealants/epoxies/Permatex_PermaPoxy_5_Minute_Plastic_Weld.htm I picked up Perma Oxy 5min. Plastic Weld. Thought it might bond better. Let cure and cover with Gorilla Tape. Why do you recommend metal tape? EDIT: Metal tape because of temperature? I got the plastic weld because its guaranteed to 250*F and 3500 PSI
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Oct 6, 2008 20:15
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iscariot posted:duck tape (yes, the duck brand ducttape) worked fine on mine after the top got slashed for around 6 months - though numerous patches from hail damage on my 94 didn't last a week. Mine got cut this summer. Vinyl adhesive melts so mine lasted about a day 
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Oct 6, 2008 20:37
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Phone posted:The automatic transmissions on NA/NB Miatas are terrible. It literally saps all of the fun out of the car. Yeah... but no hard top...  My BRG has everything his has, and I couldn't get close to 9K for it... 6 maybe...58,800 miles... all work done... Maybe thats  dollars??
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Oct 6, 2008 20:49
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mobn posted:Unless you're doing some serious power modding or you were having heat problems, there's no reason not to go with the OEM unless another better one is cheaper. What Phone said... and I'll add that if the OP goes with OEM, at the very least get the one built for the auto. Personally, I'd just invest in a good all aluminum radiator for the longevity and cooling... But as I said, if the OP must go with OEM, buy one built for the automatic Miatas... They are slightly bigger and help cool a little better, and should be a drop in replacement for the radiator in the non-auto Miatas. Of course, that's assuming that the OP doesn't have an auto already, and assuming the OP has an NA or NB...
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Oct 6, 2008 20:52
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goku chewbacca posted:http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesives_sealants/epoxies/Permatex_PermaPoxy_5_Minute_Plastic_Weld.htm Metal tape because I am making fun of mobn for recommending a lovely plastic radiator. Get a replacement radiator with metal tanks.
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Oct 6, 2008 22:58
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Phone posted:That's right, mobn! There's no need to spend an extra 50 bucks on an aluminum radiator when you can get a plastic one which will explode in another 120k miles. Not to mention that all a bigger core will do is allow engine temps to be lower, and the potential to future proof if he decides to go FI. 120k is a long time, and if you're anything like I am, $50 is a lot of money that I need for other things. I even said right in my post that my advice only applied if he wasn't planning to go for more power and he wasn't having temperature problems. If he just needs the car to perform the same and money's tight, there's nothing wrong with OEM. Are you honestly telling me there was never a time in your life where $50 was something you couldn't give up if you didn't have to? "future proof while you're at it" isn't always a viable option. mobn fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Oct 6, 2008 |
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Oct 6, 2008 22:59
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Annoying problem with my '93 Miata. The airbag light blinks 5 times then pauses then blinks 5 times.  says that it's a fuse issue, but has anyone dealt with this first hand?
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Oct 7, 2008 05:04
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I'm trying to get ahold of a NA Cam Angle Sensor and coilpack with wiring connectors, does anyone have any lying around or for a somewhat good price? I'm going MS on the GTX and the CAS bolts right in with no issues.
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Oct 7, 2008 05:13
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Baby Hitler posted:I'm trying to get ahold of a NA Cam Angle Sensor and coilpack with wiring connectors, does anyone have any lying around or for a somewhat good price? I'm going MS on the GTX and the CAS bolts right in with no issues. If you race your car you can sign up for parts at cost here: http://www.mazdaspeedmotorsports.com
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Oct 7, 2008 14:37
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Ziploc posted:If you race your car you can sign up for parts at cost here: http://www.mazdaspeedmotorsports.com For those interested, here's the fine print on how you would need to be eligible: https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/B2BDirect/UserArea/AccountSection/RegistrationSubsection/Disclaimer.html
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Oct 7, 2008 16:10
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Ziploc posted:If you race your car you can sign up for parts at cost here: http://www.mazdaspeedmotorsports.com I don't think Mazda would even consider supporting the 323 GTX again, it was taken off the MazdaSpeed Competition site a few years ago. I wouldn't even be using parts intended for that model, so I expect that won't work. That and the parts wouldn't match up to their race-results contingency requirements, and the 30 day waiver wouldn't work. I'll keep that link though, if the car and I do well later on, I'll see if they could get me some old stuff. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Oct 7, 2008 |
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Oct 7, 2008 18:04
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Baby Hitler posted:I don't think Mazda would even consider supporting the 323 GTX again, it was taken off the MazdaSpeed Competition site a few years ago. I wouldn't even be using parts intended for that model, so I expect that won't work. Eh, I just checked prices for you on Mazda Competition. A new CAS (NF01-18-230A) looks to be $291.81, down from a list of $395.85. 'Coil & Igniter' (B61P-18-10X) is listed for $149.51, down from $249.23. Planetmiata lists camshaft sensor and coil pack for $125 each (used obviously). They are fairly open with giving access to racers. If you've raced a Mazda at all this year and have times from an organization (last I checked you needed two), you should be able to get an account. They do still stock parts for old 323s, but I'm not sure about the GTX specific parts. Let me know if you want me to look up anything else.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:42
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I've got a bit of an interior problem, I own a mk2 with mk2.5 leather seats and door cards in. The door interiors comes away from both doors now I have upgraded the component speakers in the doors, there are no screws or attachment devices that I can see along the bottom of the door and this is where the door cards come away. Its not a huge problem, but makes the car seem kinda old and broken when shutting the doors, anyone any ideas?
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Oct 8, 2008 17:00
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laymil posted:Eh, I just checked prices for you on Mazda Competition. A new CAS (NF01-18-230A) looks to be $291.81, down from a list of $395.85. 'Coil & Igniter' (B61P-18-10X) is listed for $149.51, down from $249.23. Planetmiata lists camshaft sensor and coil pack for $125 each (used obviously). I think the newest parts they carry is for the 1990+ BG Protege/323 models, nothing engine or suspension-wise is compatible. I think I'll just keep my eyes open for another junkyard Miata I find, $300 is absurd for something I can get for $15. Maybe I can fit a DSM CAS on it, I have a few of those lying around.
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Oct 8, 2008 17:32
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Baby Hitler posted:I think the newest parts they carry is for the 1990+ BG Protege/323 models, nothing engine or suspension-wise is compatible. I think I'll just keep my eyes open for another junkyard Miata I find, $300 is absurd for something I can get for $15. Maybe I can fit a DSM CAS on it, I have a few of those lying around. I think you meant oldest parts; if so, they have all the way back to 1986. Unfortunately, they don't separate the 323GTX out as a separate model for stock parts, so you'd need to know what interchanges with the base model or have a part number. As for competition 323GTX parts (which are listed separately), all they have are clutches and a pressure plate. Here's a copy of the collision guide. laymil fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Oct 8, 2008 |
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Oct 8, 2008 19:14
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So I found a fun thing with my miata. I am pretty sure my passenger side rocker panel is full of water. When I start or stop I can hear water sloshing around, and when I park the car, water drips from the rocker panel just behind the passenger door. Is this common? Are there any drain holes that could have gotten clogged? I am kinda hesitant to just take drill to it, but that's the next step if I cant find any better options. *edit* I just found the page i needed on miata.net. Time to clear some drain holes when I get off work. slurry_curry fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Oct 8, 2008 |
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Oct 8, 2008 21:39
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Negromancer posted:*edit* I just found the page i needed on miata.net. Time to clear some drain holes when I get off work. Obviously the drill is going to be under the sill hole and will get splashed if it's full of water. So you might have to hand start a tiny hole to let the water out first. Somehow. Maybe by forcing a nail up into the hole. I had best success with a screw removal bit: http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/dek10.jpg (the size 3 there should do nicely). A regular drill bit just snagged too easily on the rusty metal.
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Oct 8, 2008 21:54
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goku chewbacca posted:I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere in the last 53 pages, but search is down. My Google-fu got me nowhere. Not sure what year you have.... This place -> http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator has an aluminum one for $137 with free shipping. I've heard of people using them before without issues. I have no personal experience with them though, as I have the 55mm Koyo.
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Oct 9, 2008 04:58
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kimbo305 posted:Obviously the drill is going to be under the sill hole and will get splashed if it's full of water. So you might have to hand start a tiny hole to let the water out first. Somehow. Maybe by forcing a nail up into the hole. Well after feeling around under where miata.net says the drain holes should be, I cant for the life of me find any. Has anyone had to clear these before and could give me better instructions then "in front and behind the jack points"?
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Oct 9, 2008 16:32
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Negromancer posted:Well after feeling around under where miata.net says the drain holes should be, I cant for the life of me find any. Has anyone had to clear these before and could give me better instructions then "in front and behind the jack points"? They're not obvious. Here's the ref pics from the article, whose links are hard to spot. Hell the article itself is hard to find. http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/images/sill1.jpg http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/images/sill2.jpg From the side, you'll see 2 bulges along the rail. Those bulges are the space through which water flows. If rust is bad or the paint is far gone, it might be hard to distinguish the bulges from the other blistering going on. You can make out what the bulges should look like in the 2nd pic.
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Oct 9, 2008 17:31
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Negromancer posted:Well after feeling around under where miata.net says the drain holes should be, I cant for the life of me find any. Has anyone had to clear these before and could give me better instructions then "in front and behind the jack points"? Yikes... you don't have to drill them... just find them. Get a smallish flat head screwdriver, and a smallish (maybe #2) phillips. Normally, they are probably pinched together. You'll find them along the seams near the front and rear jack points (the pics make it a lot easier to recognize them. Use the flat head to get them started, then use the phillips if you need to. In my case, I only needed the flathead to open them up... you just stick it in, pry the hole open, slide it in a little further, pry it open some more, and keep going until the trapped water rushes out all over your hand. If you do drill them, be sure you get a brush and some paint to cover the bare metal... water will collect in there and you'll find a nasty rust problem eventually... It took me all of 10 minutes to widen all four on each of the two NAs that I own.
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Oct 9, 2008 18:54
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kimbo305 posted:They're not obvious. Here's the ref pics from the article, whose links are hard to spot. Hell the article itself is hard to find. drat how did I miss those. So the drain holes are actually in the lowest point there where the 2 pieces of metal meet? Are they in the 2 spots where the sheet metal dips up a bit there? I thought it was just near by those.
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Oct 9, 2008 21:16
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Negromancer posted:drat how did I miss those. So the drain holes are actually in the lowest point there where the 2 pieces of metal meet? Are they in the 2 spots where the sheet metal dips up a bit there? I thought it was just near by those. The drain holes should be just to the side of those. The dips mark the jack points.
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Oct 10, 2008 15:34
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Anyone know if Eibach springs are decent? They apparently lower the car 30mm (1.2 inches), is that going to mess with the suspension geometry?
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Oct 11, 2008 02:17
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I just switched to winter tires after having to replace a pair because of a nail and what is the first thing I notice when I remove my summer proxes ? You've guessed it. A two inch long nail stuck in the front left tire. Goddamn contractors too stupid to clean after themselves. I hope they all get jumped in a dark alley, get stabbed in the guts, get their eyes gorged out and finally get urinated on.
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Oct 11, 2008 13:37
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duep posted:I just switched to winter tires after having to replace a pair because of a nail and what is the first thing I notice when I remove my summer proxes ? You've guessed it. A two inch long nail stuck in the front left tire. Goddamn contractors too stupid to clean after themselves. I hope they all get jumped in a dark alley, get stabbed in the guts, get their eyes gorged out and finally get urinated on. If the nail is only in the tread and not the sidewall you can get it pulled and plugged for free at somewhere like Discount Tire. I wouldn't necessarily trust the plug for a long, hard track day, but for a road-going car it's just like it never happened. I had a nail pulled and plugged in one of my tires on my car over a year ago now and you'd never know it. Took them no more than 15 minutes, and I watched and chatted with the guy as he did it. No leaks or anything. And I drive my car like it's meant to be driven: aggressively. No sense in throwing out a good tire just because of a nail in the tread.
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Oct 12, 2008 01:23
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Finally got around to replacing the window regulator today.794613 posted:Removing the trim piece on top of the window isn't difficult, just be gentle and pry up on the outside lip till you can see a little plastic tab. Push the tab, and then move to the next one. My door had 5 of them. Once they are all released it'll pop right out. The top trim/seal on the outside of the window was the toughest part. The blueridgemiata article wasn't clear about how to do the removal so I cracked the first 2 of the clips. But then I figured it out. You want to do it from the outside (the side opposite to sitting inside the car) of the door. From the inside, it looks you could pry the clips, but it's misleading. Just wedge up the rubber seal on the outside so you can see under it at the plastic clip and the little release tab that you need to poke. Even having discovered this, my plastic was so brittle that I broke 2 more clips' release tabs off. But there was enough friction/structure left to hold the thing back on (at least upon reinstall; still need to do a shakedown drive). Just think to do it from this side of the window: http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/windows/images/Image09.jpg Another thing -- the blueridge article is all about preserving bolt positions to retain perfect alignment. This presumes that the original alignment was good and that the regulators are exactly the same shape, neither of which may have been true for me. I did my best but couldn't align the original bolt positions or the window. So as I rolled the window up, it got tighter and tighter against the A pillar side guide. What I did was roll it up pretty high where it was pretty tight, and then broke loose the top 2 14mm bolts on the regulator. This brought pressure off of the window and straightened it out some. Retightening set this new good alignment. Can't wait to not have loving wind noise on the highway. Well, only the bare minimum noise that a softtop 18-year old roadster affords and no more.
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Oct 12, 2008 02:05
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