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How the hell am I supposed to fit a torque wrench onto the rear track bar to tighten the bolt to spec without DROPPING THE GAS TANK on this 04 Wrangler? Gotta be kidding me with this shyte. edit: Oh god I am stupid I just had to jack the frame up to get the tank to clear the bolt incredibull fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Oct 30, 2008 |
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Oct 30, 2008 22:07
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Well, yeah, they fit so long as you don't go off even pavement. The rear does not have enough uptravel to stuff 33s with the flares removed. My Yj has no lift whatsoever and I run 33s, flatfendered front and removed flares rear. It wheels suprisingly well, the lack of travel on stock sus sucks, but with 33s on cop car steelies, the stance is so wide and it sits so low, it's nearly square in profile. I'm pretty sure you could not flop it if you wanted to.
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Oct 31, 2008 06:36
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I'm not going to post a thread just for it but I am seriously thinking of selling my YJ. I thought I'd mention it here before I go on into the jeep forums to try and sell it. If a goon were to buy my Jeep I'd throw in every part and jeep thing I have laying around including a ford 8.8 rear axle geared 3.55 from a 2000 explorer. I'm looking for ~4000 dollars. 88YJ 3 speed auto. 258 I6. Hard top full steel doors soft top half steel doors w/ soft uppers TJ rear flares (unmounted) Factory fenders available 7" LED S/T/T tail lights 2 reverse lights diamond plate corners flat/tube fenders (homemade) Warn rock sliders with rail added front bumper w/ d-rings winch plate 10,000 lb winch (vortex/gorilla/bulldog) herculinered tub 2 black vinyl seats from 4wd.com sound bar rear tuffy storage box tuffy console (beat to gently caress) 15x8 black steel wheels 31x10.50 Mt tires (Adventuro) Remanufactured engine with ~10k miles on it motorcraft 2100 carb TFI ignition upgrade 3 row metal radiator with transmission cooler The paint is rough (what isn't rattle canned already) but it is 20 years old. It's something I'm toying with. This is sort of a feeler. I have some poo poo going on right now and I don't know that I can really keep the thing. I'm in NW NC west of Winston-Salem. Of course things could change but if someone were to make an offer between now and Thanksgivingish I'd probably let it go.
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Oct 31, 2008 14:36
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OK, since the jerks at NAXJA won't help me, I'll put this question here. I have a brand new set of Bridgestone all terrains, size 235/75/15. I was going to put them on the stock wheels, but i've decided to get a set of Cragar black steelies instead and put my stockers on my beater jeep since the wheels are hosed. Here's my dilemma. 7 or 8 inch? Are 8 inch too wide or just right? Also, there's a choice of offset between 4 1/2 and 4 3/4. Which is the correct offset for a 99 XJ?
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Nov 1, 2008 01:59
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I'm not going to post a thread just for it but I am seriously thinking of selling my YJ. I thought I'd mention it here before I go on into the jeep forums to try and sell it. If you really do plan on getting a XJ as a replacement, my only advice is to be really REALLY patient. There are still tons of XJs out there and you might find a gem like this guy did. http://jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=621212 '91 XJ with 72,000 miles for $1900.
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Nov 2, 2008 17:08
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leica posted:OK, since the jerks at NAXJA won't help me, I'll put this question here. Go for the 7 inch unless you plan on getting larger tires in the future, then I'd go with the 8" wide. I ran 33x12.50's on factory 15x7 wheels with no problems though. As far as offset goes, factory is 5.25" of backspacing for all Wranglers (pre-JK) and Cherokees and Grand Cherokees, 4 1/2 is nice if you want to run bigger tires in the future because you won't rub on the control arms when turning, but they'll stick out a little bit more than stock.
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Nov 2, 2008 21:28
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Jack_Handey posted:Go for the 7 inch unless you plan on getting larger tires in the future, then I'd go with the 8" wide. I ran 33x12.50's on factory 15x7 wheels with no problems though. Why did people poo poo the bed about running 33s on 15x8s on JU. Talking about blowing a bead on 8" wheels and that a 10 is really needed for 33s. I'm confused. I was mad cause I thought I was gonna hafta get new wheels for 33s.
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Nov 2, 2008 22:43
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Why did people poo poo the bed about running 33s on 15x8s on JU. Talking about blowing a bead on 8" wheels and that a 10 is really needed for 33s. JeepsUnlimited is full of retards first and foremost, but in reality, running 33's on a 7 or 8" rim is better because it's much harder to pop a bead than with wider rims. The tire also balloons out over the rim too, making it a lot harder to scrape up your wheels, and personally, I think it looks a lot better than a 33x12.50 on a 10" wide wheel, all stretched out and whatnot.
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Nov 3, 2008 00:04
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Jack_Handey posted:Go for the 7 inch unless you plan on getting larger tires in the future, then I'd go with the 8" wide. I ran 33x12.50's on factory 15x7 wheels with no problems though. poo poo, I already ordered 8" but I think I'm gonna change it because a friend of mine has 30's on 8 inch wheels and they look stretched out to me. This offset poo poo confuses me, aren't I risking unnecessary wear on the bearings if the offset is off too much? [edit] gently caress too late, order already shipped. I'm starting to wonder if I should just send them back and get stock wheels. What a pain in my rear end. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Nov 3, 2008 |
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Nov 3, 2008 03:06
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I have a 98 XJ and I am thinking about lifting it a little bit. Noting to crazy... yet. One of my friends told me I can use OEM springs from a Grand Cherokee and get a bit of a lift from it although I don't quite remember what he told me. Has anybody else heard of this?
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Nov 3, 2008 04:59
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leica posted:poo poo, I already ordered 8" but I think I'm gonna change it because a friend of mine has 30's on 8 inch wheels and they look stretched out to me. What backspacing did you order? 4.5" backspacing on steelies won't look bad, but instead of getting 235's you should get some 30x9.5x15's, they'll fit a stock jeep, especially with those wheels, and it'll look a lot better.
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Nov 3, 2008 05:14
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Jack_Handey posted:What backspacing did you order? 4.5" backspacing on steelies won't look bad, but instead of getting 235's you should get some 30x9.5x15's, they'll fit a stock jeep, especially with those wheels, and it'll look a lot better. I got 8" with 4" backspace. And I already got the tires from tirerack. If anything I'd send the wheels back because shipping was free so I wouldn't have to pay for shipping twice like i would for the tires. Maybe I'll have one mounted to see how it looks. I'm worried about 4" BS now though because with stock suspension I could have problems with the tires rubbing. I won't know until I see it, I've had people say 235's on 8" will be fine, and others say 8" is too wide. I'd honestly rather have the tires bulging a bit than stretched out over the wheel ricer style. Like you said, the tire protects the wheel that way....Unfortunately I wasn't thinking about that when I ordered the wheels. Oh well, I'll see how it looks.
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Nov 3, 2008 15:14
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I'm thinking of dumping my Wrangler for an XJ. I was originally going to buy a Wrangler instead of an XJ, but after test drving several Wranglers and then several XJs I found the XJ to be more of what I was looking for as far as stability in offroad environments and reliability
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Nov 3, 2008 16:12
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Jack_Handey posted:JeepsUnlimited is full of retards first and foremost Speaking of which, I've been looking for the "best" Jeep forum, and haven't really found it. Most seem either too unfriendly to those who aren't building all-out rockcrawling, or are full of complete retards that can't make a single legible post. Any suggestions? I just want some place that has good tech info where I won't get bashed for having less than 33s on my Jeep. Also, why the hell are all of the Jeep forums so obsessed with 
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Nov 3, 2008 21:26
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incredibull posted:Speaking of which, I've been looking for the "best" Jeep forum, and haven't really found it. Most seem either too unfriendly to those who aren't building all-out rockcrawling, or are full of complete retards that can't make a single legible post. If you have an XJ I am on a mailing list that has a lot of good guys who work on both daily drivers and offroad rigs and cater to both.
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Nov 3, 2008 22:36
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incredibull posted:Speaking of which, I've been looking for the "best" Jeep forum, and haven't really found it. Most seem either too unfriendly to those who aren't building all-out rockcrawling, or are full of complete retards that can't make a single legible post. Jeepforum is okay, and so is NAXJA.org if you have an XJ, but the reality is there really isn't a great jeep forum out there unless you're leaning towards the more hardcore stuff, or at least I haven't found one yet. Pirate4x4.com is my favorite though, it might be a little more advanced for your tastes, but you'll learn so much, as long as you keep your mouth shut :\
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Nov 3, 2008 23:26
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NAXJA is alright, the main problem with it is threads die REALLY fast so if you can't find what you need in search, starting a thread won't do much better. I've had legitimate questions with tons of views and only a couple replies. I understand that the same poo poo gets asked over and over, but XJ n00bs have to start somewhere. It just seems like there's no interest unless you fabricated a new part or figured out a new way to do something.
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Nov 4, 2008 00:17
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Jack_Handey posted:Pirate4x4.com is my favorite though, it might be a little more advanced for your tastes, but you'll learn so much, as long as you keep your mouth shut :\ I've been on Pirate off and on over the years (not new to 4x4s, just Jeeps) and can't stand the fact that you basically get ignored unless 99% of your vehicle is no longer stock. Also you must plan to spent at least $10K building your rig. I mean this picture basically says everything you'd need to know about Pirate  I'll give Jeepforum a shot. I'm not wanting to learn how to turn a wrench. I just need to know torque specs and whatnot when I can't find them online anywhere else, or ask for a tip when part X does something unexpected that I'm not used to. Hard to believe that there's no middle of the road Jeep forum... edit: fixed image leech, thanks gavitron incredibull fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Nov 4, 2008 |
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Nov 4, 2008 01:38
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incredibull posted:I've been on Pirate off and on over the years (not new to 4x4s, just Jeeps) and can't stand the fact that you basically get ignored unless 99% of your vehicle is no longer stock. Also you must plan to spent at least $10K building your rig. While I can appreciate the sentiment, I think this picture captures it better:  (That's a $20,000 axle there, folks!) and I'd waffleimage yours before a mod notices the leech.
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Nov 4, 2008 02:13
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^^How the hell is that worth $20,000!? Honestly, I want to know what parts make up that much money. That's just mind blowing.
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Nov 4, 2008 03:26
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I agree, but it's amazing how quickly the cost can rack up when it basically contains zero off-the-shelf parts. I imagine that one caliper alone is well over $1,000.
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Nov 4, 2008 03:55
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MrZig posted:^^How the hell is that worth $20,000!? Honestly, I want to know what parts make up that much money. That's just mind blowing. besides the $1000 calipers etc, that's like three weeks of $100/hour welding & fab work too...
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Nov 4, 2008 10:47
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Gavitron posted:besides the $1000 calipers etc, that's like three weeks of $100/hour welding & fab work too... AND IF YOU CANT BUILD THIS ON YOUR OWN YOUR A GAY PUSSY N00B rear end human being /pirate post I have seen some really cool poo poo there, and many times what you see/learn can be scaled down to fit your meager non hardcore n00b rear end. And the softcore section is JU but on adhd medication.
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Nov 4, 2008 14:39
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 figured I would cross post this from the Cell phone pics thread.
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Nov 4, 2008 15:19
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Has anyone here done the Rock Lizard "home brew budget boost" AAL (add a leaf) with a stock main spring from an XJ? From what I've been reading, it's better than a bastard pack because you're using another XJ leaf (instead of S-10/Dakota springs) so it's the same spring rate, which means a better ride and 2" lift. I'm thinking of doing it to both my XJ's, but my 97's springs are frowning  so I'm not sure how much it would help on worn springs.Here's the tutorial from Rocklizard's website: http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/home_brew_budget_boost.htm
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Nov 4, 2008 17:12
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Since I have apparently become retarded where is the screw/bolt to turn to adjust distributor timing on the 258?
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Nov 4, 2008 23:20
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OK, I've decided to do something about my tires sooner than later. They're low on tread and the weather's getting shittier. I think I kind of like the look of larger tires while keeping the suspension closer to stock. I'm angling for more stability anyway. I found the same TJ-style flares for $160 here. It looks like I can cut out a couple inches around the side before ending up behind the wheel well and still be able to seal it off without compromising protection in the form of a butchered wheel well. edit: Currently running 235/75/15 on 15x8 stock wheels so it looks like I'll need some new wheels as well. Any recommendation for 31-32" tires? The standard Goodyear Wrangler RT/S gets sub-par reviews on tirerack. Talking to a few people, I got pointed towards these BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO but they seem like overkill. PCJ-600 fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 5, 2008 22:29
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Hey, quick question: Will headlights for a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited also fit the non-Limited version? I need to replace my headlamps and I like how the Limited's look, but obviously don't want to buy the wrong set. Thanks!
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Nov 6, 2008 00:24
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My cherokee has a vibration from the driveline that is quite audible and you can feel it in your butt and feet, but it only happens when I'm in 4x4. My driveshaft spins all the time, and this exact same thign happend with a completley different transfer case and drive shaft. Any ideas what it could be? Front axle U joints maybe?
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Nov 6, 2008 05:15
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I've posted several times in this thread over the months, and I've finally managed to get a few pictures of the rust pile 1990 Cherokee 4.0 that I own. Enjoy! Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Wheeeee 2 door!  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. In 2006, I shipped this vehicle from Kauai, HI to Los Angeles and drove it to Denver, CO, where it now resides.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. For most of the 3 1/3 years I've owned the truck, it was riding on an ageing set of Firestone Firehawk RMT's measuring in at 30x9.5R15. Just replaced (downgraded) them with some 235 Goodyear Wrangler SR-A's... only improvement is ride quality; still a bit of rubbing at both extremes.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Some friendly person hit my left front corner while I was at work one evening and drove away without even a note! What a joyous find at 11pm after a hectic night serving steaks to Denver's richest residents.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Some major rust under the vehicle, driver's side right before the rear wheel. I have no doubt this began in Hawaii, although the salt on the roads around here definitely doesn't help.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Bondo job that needs to be sanded/painted still. There used to be giant rust holes there before a little bit of amateur body work was conducted. This is pretty much the usual on any car of any age in Hawaii.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Other side, repair a little harder to see.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Pretty hard to rack up miles on a small island. There were a little over 69k when it landed in Los Angeles in 2006.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Another friendly human being decided he needed my $200 stereo more than I one summer evening. Jacked from behind my house.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Profile - gotta love the 2 doors. Since it has been here in Denver, I've had to have the clutch replaced, some body work to re-attach the driver's seat due to rust, brakes, and a new radiator. Right now it's needing the same body work done under the passenger seat, main oil seal in the tranny, and an oil seal in the T-Case. The oil leaks are slow and manageable so I've been putting it off. I've taken it off road around here a couple of times and it performs beautifully... I just need to figure out more places to go! I'm know there are plenty within an hour or two from Denver. As most Jeep owners have, I'm way past trying to be smart as far as the car's value versus the cost of repairs. I've put far more money into this truck than it's worth, and, frankly, I don't care. You can't beat it in Colorado winters and it's an awesome college vehicle, even though I graduated in June. It's a stick, by the way. Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 20:16
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MrZig posted:My cherokee has a vibration from the driveline that is quite audible and you can feel it in your butt and feet, but it only happens when I'm in 4x4. My driveshaft spins all the time, and this exact same thign happend with a completley different transfer case and drive shaft. Any ideas what it could be? Front axle U joints maybe? What year is it? Many Cherokees have an internal vacuum lock in the front axle that disconnects the outer ends of the axleshafts from the diff when not in 4x4. This does sound like a bad U-joint either in your front driveshaft or axleshaft ends. You may also have an out of balance front driveshaft. Check to see if it may have lost a balance weight. A good way to test this out is to get front end up on jackstands and rotate each component by hand. If it's worn bad enough, you can sometimes spot or feel a U-joint binding up. incredibull fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 21:57
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incredibull posted:What year is it? Many Cherokees have an internal vacuum lock in the front axle that disconnects the outer ends of the axleshafts from the diff when not in 4x4. 1989. It has the vacuum disconnect, but I put washers so it's always connected. That way the driveshaft always spins and there aren't any 4x4 reliability problems. Thing is, with everything turning all the time, how come I only get vibration when I'm in 4x4? I had it in both transfercases and two seperate front driveshafts so I really don't think those are the culprit. Starting to lean towards the front U joints.
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Nov 7, 2008 00:09
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Okay update! I jacked up the front end so that both wheels were off the ground, and spinning the wheels normally at full lock the U Joints seemed fine. However I started the jeep and put it in full time 4x4, and at full lock when I release the clutch out all the way I get this horrible HORRIBLE knocking, clanging and banging sound from underneath the jeep. I don't have anyone to help me diagnose it yet, but there's definitely a lot of banging of some sorts from under there. Going straight there's no noise but it gets progressively worse the more you turn it, and at full lock the entire jeep is shaking with every bang.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:02
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Since I bought my 2000 Cherokee Sport I've had a blast. The only major problem I've run into is that the headlights provide some of the absolute poorest visibility around. The bulbs looked alright when I checked them out with my buddy, but on the road at night, especially in rain, they seem really dim. Is the best way to fix this just to replace the bulbs with something like http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/jeepcherokee19962001sylvaniasy-h3st353142.html or do you guys have a better suggestion? I don't mind spending more money as long as it's worth it.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:34
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Donnie Darko posted:Since I bought my 2000 Cherokee Sport I've had a blast. The only major problem I've run into is that the headlights provide some of the absolute poorest visibility around. The bulbs looked alright when I checked them out with my buddy, but on the road at night, especially in rain, they seem really dim. Upgrade the wire harness so that it uses a relay and a thicker wire to the lights. If you don't, and you upgrade, you could have a fire hazzard. Apparently the stock wiring for the lights are crap and simply by upgrading the harness, you improve the stock light output.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:42
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Kilonum posted:
His star is in the wrong place. Although some were in the "wrong" place when they were put on during the war, so whatever. So uh, I'm getting an M37. Can I join the Jeep party? I mean, they're all family now, right (M37 was made by Dodge).  Also. That is the end-goal. This is her now:   Shouldn't be a problem. Everything is all original, and I've restored a few MVs over the past 5 years (like, dozens and dozens) This will be the first one that is *mine* however. EDIT: Plus, they called these "Jeeps" during the Korean war. Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 03:39
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Okay it turns out the bucking I had when I jacked up the front end was the rear driveshaft turning back and forth trying to move. It only really tries to move when I turn at full lock however. Should that be happening? Do I possibley have a screwed up transfer case?
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Nov 7, 2008 04:20
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MrZig posted:Okay update! Unless you pulled the rear driveshaft, I'm not sure how you managed to engage the clutch in 4x4 with only the front end in the air and not have the Jeep come flying off of the jackstands. Your magic is strong... It sounds like one or both U-joints on the axleshafts are toast. However, since the U-joints are on the outer ends of the shafts, this would be a problem whether you're in 4x4 or not, and wouldn't depend on whether or not you have the axle disconnect enabled. Truly a mystery. You don't have manual locking hubs installed do you? You said you swapped the transfer case once. You're sure the one you swapped in isn't junk? You've checked both TC and axle fluid? Time to maybe drop the rear shaft so that you can let the front end spin under power while you get under and have a look to pinpoint where the sounds is coming from. It doesn't seem to fit under any of the usual guessable items. edit: oh you didn't pull the driveshaft. Well consider yourself lucky that you didn't just send a jackstand into your oil pan.
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Nov 7, 2008 04:23
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incredibull posted:Unless you pulled the rear driveshaft, I'm not sure how you managed to engage the clutch in 4x4 with only the front end in the air and not have the Jeep come flying off of the jackstands. Your magic is strong... Sorry I didn't mention that this is happening in 4x4-Full Time. The transfer case has a center differential, and with the front end jacked up, should send all power to the front. All the banging noise was the rear driveshaft trying to turn as well, but since it was on the ground, it couldn't. I'm still mistified why it crowhops around tight corners and bangs going straight.. No locking hubs. The transfer-case I swapped in (the NP242) had 240,000 KM's on it and the innards looked fine from what I could tell. Edit: I might have figured it out. At full lock, perhaps the U-Joints are binding, causing the front end to resist more which makes the transfercase want to push the read end? Seeing as how it is a differential, it wants to put power to the weakest spot. Maybe at a certain speed, at a certain tightness of turning, the U Joint is binding causing it to want to send power to the rear driveshaft. The wheel turns fine by hand at full lock, but that isn't going very fast. That's the only thing I can think of that would make it want to turn the rear driveshaft when I turn the wheels - what else would make it do that? MrZig fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 04:31
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MrZig posted:Sorry I didn't mention that this is happening in 4x4-Full Time. The transfer case has a center differential, and with the front end jacked up, should send all power to the front. All the banging noise was the rear driveshaft trying to turn as well, but since it was on the ground, it couldn't. I'm still mistified why it crowhops around tight corners and bangs going straight.. Sounds like it. Maybe replace the U-Joints and see what happens. Its never a bad idea to replace them if they aren't fairly recent. But that doesn't seem like it would make the car hop around turns. Although I guess if it is suddenly and forcefully jolting power to the rears on and off it would make it seem like that. I have no idea, but I wouldn't do that anymore if I were you. If something is hosed up in the transfer case and the rear driveshaft is trying to move, you're lucky it didn't come off the stands. I've tested full time 4x4s similar to this but I would say a safer way is 4 wheels in the air, then engage the parking brake. I've also seen a guy I worked with use his bare hands, and then a block of wood to stop the wheels he wanted to stop on a Subaru. I looked up from the Jeep I was working on with amazement that he was about to grab a spinning tire without even nitrile gloves on. Anyway, it worked but it must have loving hurt because he use a 4x4 for the last 3 wheels. I forget what he was doing but he's a great mechanic (we were at a primative shop to put it mildly), ASE master, former rally mech, etc. I have no idea what he was thinking (he's also missing a piece of his finger from some other incident so I dunno). Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 04:39
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