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Ceramic brake pads for an e36 m3. Will i need new/special rotors for them?
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Nov 6, 2008 02:21
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Arwox posted:Ceramic brake pads for an e36 m3. Nope.
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Nov 6, 2008 02:27
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Arwox posted:Ceramic brake pads for an e36 m3. Special? No. New rotors are always a good idea when replacing pads because the old pads imprint a wear pattern on the rotors. This can cause an imbalance when you brake with the new pads unless you get the rotors turned, which BMW doesn't recommend (takes too much material off the rotor).
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Nov 6, 2008 03:52
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Brock Landers posted:Special? No. New rotors are always a good idea when replacing pads because the old pads imprint a wear pattern on the rotors. This can cause an imbalance when you brake with the new pads unless you get the rotors turned, which BMW doesn't recommend (takes too much material off the rotor). While I do agree with this, BMW doesn't. Not too long ago, techs at the dealers were replacing rotors with everyone brake service, regardless of the actual rotor specs. BMW didn't like this, and are now enforcing rotor measurements. If your rotors are above minimum thickness and don't show any damage or weird wear going on, you get just a pad slap now. This only applies to cars under their maintenance plan. Everyone else still gets new rotors.
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Nov 6, 2008 14:36
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Lufiron posted:While I do agree with this, BMW doesn't. Not too long ago, techs at the dealers were replacing rotors with everyone brake service, regardless of the actual rotor specs. BMW didn't like this, and are now enforcing rotor measurements. If your rotors are above minimum thickness and don't show any damage or weird wear going on, you get just a pad slap now. This only applies to cars under their maintenance plan. Everyone else still gets new rotors. Why am I not surprised. It's amazing how little maintenance these new BMWs require now that BMW is footing the bill for maintenance!  My 318iS has 189,000 miles on it, doesn't burn a drop of oil, shifts crisply, still has the original, leak-free radiator, doesn't have diff-whine, brakes evenly and doesn't have any funny squeaks or rattles. The original and second owners followed BMWs original maintenance schedule to the letter, including a 1200 mile break-in service, coolant and brake fluid flushes every 2 years, diff and tranny fluid changes at Inspection II, oil changes every 5000 miles, and so on. These cars will truly last forever if you just take care of them.
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Nov 6, 2008 14:50
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 I'm going to replace the rear shocks on my E36 328i. I'm going to put off the tie rods and motor mounts, which I also need, until spring. Is there anything else I'm going to need? Is there anything that I have there that I don't need? I've got: 2 x Bilstein sport shocks, rear 2 x rear shock mount gasket 2 x rear upper shock mount 2 x rear shock mount reinforcement (I've heard the horror stories...) 2 x 5mm spring pad 2 x rear shock protection boot 2 x rear shock compression absorber Bavarian Autosport seems to have the best prices I can find (and free shipping)! so I plan on using them. Total is about $300. It looks pretty simple, according to my Bentley. Also, any southern Michigan goons interested in a 1976 2002 for sale fairly cheaply (not mine nor anybody I know)? http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/907324895.html ooh, also a Bavaria http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/904519962.html CornHolio fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 15:41
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No need for new spring pads and bavauto sucks. Try RMEuropean or pelican parts.
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Nov 6, 2008 17:03
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CornHolio posted:Bavarian Autosport I personally hate them, and think their prices are bad. Contact Euro-Spec (http://euro-spec.net) for aftermarket poo poo and Tischer BMW (http://www.getbmwparts.com/) for OEM stuff. Best prices around and actual customer service.
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Nov 6, 2008 17:20
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BraveUlysses posted:No need for new spring pads and bavauto sucks. Try RMEuropean or pelican parts. Pelican Parts has everything for $277 but that doesn't include the reinforcements that were $20 each. So ultimately they're a little more expensive. I order from them a lot, but I prefer bavauto. Any reason you don't like them? Tischer has EACH SHOCK at over $120, and I don't even know if those are the Bilstein 'sport' or 'heavy duty.'  I think you guys are on something. Compare with Bavarian Autosport  And Pelican Parts  Doctor Grape Ape posted:
$88 per side, shipped, about the same as bavauto. edit: RM has them for $85, I might go with them on this one depending on how their other prices are. $6 isn't a big deal to me, but I've never gotten anything from these guys and am interested in trying them out. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 17:24
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CornHolio posted:Pelican Parts has everything for $277 but that doesn't include the reinforcements that were $20 each. So ultimately they're a little more expensive. I placed my first order with BavAuto last week and I doubt I'll be going back to them. The only reason I ordered from them was because they had the fan clutch tool in stock; according to their website anyway. Turns out they didn't actually have it in stock and didn't notify me it was on backorder (they told me they were supposed to be in Sep. 3rd when I asked how long of a wait I was looking at) until the box got to my house. I burned a day for nothing since I couldn't remove the fan clutch to do the water pump. I wasn't too pissed because it looks like the fan clutch burned up as well so I had to go ahead and order one of those from Pelican and the fan clutch tool from Amazon. Apparently the water pump bearing is wore out enough that it let the water pump droop forward allowing the fan to actually get caught behind the fan shroud, burning up the fan clutch. Luckily the fan and shroud stayed in one piece, somehow. At any rate, I don't like to support a company who can't update their website or at least notify you when you place your order that a part is back ordered. There's no excuse for it in 2008. As an aside, what the gently caress is with BMW parts dealers and their atrocious shipping times? I order stuff for my '67 Mustang project all the time and their free shipping never takes more than 2 days to get to me. Why does it take every single BMW parts supplier on Earth at least a week to get parts to me?
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Nov 6, 2008 17:34
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^^ For OE Parts go with www.rmeuropean.com They're the cheapest and offer free shipping on orders over $65. I once needed a part quickly and they bumped the package to free next day air ($175 or so in parts). I can't say enough nice things about RMEuropean.BraveUlysses posted:No need for new spring pads and bavauto sucks. Try RMEuropean or pelican parts. This. The only good deal that BavAuto has is their Bilstein Sports + BavAuto spring package (which are just H&R Sport knock offs). I bought the entire set for $650 a year ago, and I'd do it again, best mod/$ I have ever done to my car. Maybe give this thread a try for the Bilsteins. The rear spring pads rarely ever go bad, most people that replace them do so to fine tune the rear ride height because the H&R sports look a little low in the back. Front spring pads do need replaced, though, at least mine did. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 17:34
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Okay, rm has everything for $225 but that doesnt include the rear shock reinforcements, and it doesnt look like they sell any. I do drive hard a bit, though I havent autocrossed yet... is this something I could skip or should i get them? And from where?
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Nov 6, 2008 18:17
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They should have the plates. I think they were an OEM Z3 part. Edit: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Reinforcement-Plate-for-Shock-Mount-Rear-Upper-__51718413359_GEN_E095124A.aspx Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 18:19
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:They should have the plates. I think they were an OEM Z3 part. Yeah I just found them too. I think their website could be designed a little better. Thanks guys, you saved me a bunch of money!
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Nov 6, 2008 18:25
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CornHolio posted:Yeah I just found them too. I think their website could be designed a little better. The site recently went through a redesign. I much preferred the old one where it listed all the parts for a category on one page and you could just ctrl+f and find what you needed. Though I imagine it was quite the load on the server doing it that way when some categories have several hundred parts associated with them. Also, just to make sure, you're getting two of those, right? The $19 price is only for one.
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Nov 6, 2008 18:30
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:The site recently went through a redesign. I much preferred the old one where it listed all the parts for a category on one page and you could just ctrl+f and find what you needed. Though I imagine it was quite the load on the server doing it that way when some categories have several hundred parts associated with them. What is the difference between the one you posted, and this: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Reinforcement-Plate-for-Rear-Shock-Mounts-__51718255291_GEN_E095124A.aspx edit: I called them, and the guy I spoke with said the cheaper one will work just fine. If I think its too flimsy when I get it, Ill return it and get the other ones I suppose. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 18:32
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I've also found that gkeuroparts.com and bimmerparts.com have good prices. The frustrating thing is, if your shopping for 10 parts, one place will have the best price on one or two parts, another place on 2 other parts, and so on. Sometimes the differences don't outweigh the shipping costs, sometimes they do.
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Nov 6, 2008 19:10
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Well I went ahead and ordered the 2-3 and 1-2,3-4 shift solenoids for my e34 to fix the lovely missing 2-3 shift, and I figure I might as well do both while I'm down there, Anyone have any advice concerning flushing and fluid? I don't know if I should change the solenoids before or after doing the flush. My reasoning being that if there's a bunch of crap up in my old solenoids, I want to keep it there because I'm removing them. I don't want to flush that crap into my valve body and the tc and brake band solenoids. On the other hand, if there's already crap circulating around in there, it will probably stick to the giant magnet that is the solenoid. Maybe I should flush before AND after? Also, can anyone recommend a good fluid? I'm pretty sure it's supposed to take Dex 3, but isn't 6 supposed to be the new 3? Redline? Should I make a thread with pictures and poo poo when I do this? AFAIK most people I've heard of with this problem either sell or junk the car, or get a whole new tranny.
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Nov 7, 2008 02:45
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frozenphil posted:I placed my first order with BavAuto last week and I doubt I'll be going back to them. The only reason I ordered from them was because they had the fan clutch tool in stock; according to their website anyway. Turns out they didn't actually have it in stock and didn't notify me it was on backorder (they told me they were supposed to be in Sep. 3rd when I asked how long of a wait I was looking at) until the box got to my house. I burned a day for nothing since I couldn't remove the fan clutch to do the water pump. I wasn't too pissed because it looks like the fan clutch burned up as well so I had to go ahead and order one of those from Pelican and the fan clutch tool from Amazon. Apparently the water pump bearing is wore out enough that it let the water pump droop forward allowing the fan to actually get caught behind the fan shroud, burning up the fan clutch. Luckily the fan and shroud stayed in one piece, somehow. At any rate, I don't like to support a company who can't update their website or at least notify you when you place your order that a part is back ordered. There's no excuse for it in 2008. For what it's worth, this happened to me also. They had an awesome kit that included all of the hanging hardware for the exhaust/muffler for my E30 and after getting one box of parts with that stuff missing, I inquired only to find out that it wasn't in stock and that they expected it within a few days. 3 weeks later I canceled my order because I called them and they finally told me that they didn't expect to ever get it. So bavauto sucks, rmeuropean is great!
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Nov 7, 2008 05:36
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Soooo. Anyone have any clue why my loving door chime would keep ringing ONLY when I'm sitting completely in my drivers seat? Not half way in, not out of the car, but only when I'm fully sitting in the drivers seat. Regardless of whether the key is in or the ignition is on or anything. Boy that sure was unpleasant for the five minutes until I finally ripped my chime speaker out. EDIT: Got under the seat and unhooked the connection there and tada -- no more door chimes when I sit down. ARGGGHH 18 YEAR OLD GERMAN ELECTRICALLLL 
Moxie Omen fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 08:57
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frozenphil posted:I placed my first order with BavAuto last week and I doubt I'll be going back to them. The only reason I ordered from them was because they had the fan clutch tool in stock; according to their website anyway. Turns out they didn't actually have it in stock and didn't notify me it was on backorder (they told me they were supposed to be in Sep. 3rd when I asked how long of a wait I was looking at) until the box got to my house. I burned a day for nothing since I couldn't remove the fan clutch to do the water pump. I wasn't too pissed because it looks like the fan clutch burned up as well so I had to go ahead and order one of those from Pelican and the fan clutch tool from Amazon. Apparently the water pump bearing is wore out enough that it let the water pump droop forward allowing the fan to actually get caught behind the fan shroud, burning up the fan clutch. Luckily the fan and shroud stayed in one piece, somehow. At any rate, I don't like to support a company who can't update their website or at least notify you when you place your order that a part is back ordered. There's no excuse for it in 2008. Try buying a Park Tool 30/32mm wrench, available at all bicycle stores. It's a very thin wrench intended for bicycle head nut removal. 12-20 bucks too!
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Nov 8, 2008 18:52
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I have an E46 and the brake light came on, so I replaced the pads and rotors. However, the light stayed on. Did I damage the sensors, or is there something else I have to do to reset the light?
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Nov 8, 2008 22:55
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McSnatch posted:I have an E46 and the brake light came on, so I replaced the pads and rotors. However, the light stayed on. Did I damage the sensors, or is there something else I have to do to reset the light? If the light is on, you need to replace the pad wear sensors as well.
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Nov 8, 2008 23:11
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Well, poo poo. After all the work I put into her car in the 5k miles we've owned it, my wife now wants to sell her car ('98 323is, 130k mi) because "silver is so BLAH!" Whatever. I'd been working on it slowly, starting with interior stuff (two two-day-soaks of Leatherique, some floor mats, fixing the OBC display and a doing a thorough detail) and the suspension (Sachs UUC kit). I just ordered a mixed bag of bulbs, belts and bushings to get this car up to snuff to sell. I'm going to swap out all the rear bulbs and maybe the headlights, do the accessory belts, and DIY the front LCAs and rear RTABs. I honestly can't think of anything else this car needs -- it had an Inspection II right before we bought it, and had a cyclone separator done just before that. The cooling system was last done in 2004, I guess maybe it could use that in the next year or two. I need to get $6k for it to not lose money, but given how well maintained it is, that should be doable. Right guys? Right?
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Nov 9, 2008 02:29
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Sterndotstern posted:I need to get $6k for it to not lose money, but given how well maintained it is, that should be doable. If I were in the market I would buy it for $6k easily if it's as good as you say.
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Nov 9, 2008 02:58
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we love BMW. my keychain that can be filed as a lethal weapon in certain states and wards off rapists.  let's count off! my first BMW i ever owned and still own; a 2004 325ci - Silver Grey, Black pleather, Sports/Cold Weather package with Silver Pearl accents. She's our only pre-owned car and the bitch of the pack but I love her.   Awesome gay license plate. 2005 645ci - Sapphire Black, Black Leather,Sports/Cold Weather package and Brushed Aluminum accents. It's my baby. I crapped myself when I got to take it home.  my little pup loves to go for long drives   and last but not least.. my mom's cars. She and my dad (rest his soul!) always had BMWs or Cadillac, one of my earliest memories was my dad driving off to work in his 7 series back in the early 90s and me watching out the window for his car when he drove home .. before mom "updated" her cars she used to own a mid 90s 5 series and a 2000 7 series- those cars are missed! my mother's 2006 X3 -Jet Black, Black Leather, Luxury/Sports/M Package (steering, door sills and wheels) she loves this car to death and is her daily driver.  rare mom appearance with her X3 and her 06' 330xi - Sparkling Graphite, Grey Dakota Leather Luxury/Sports/iDrive  <3 BMWs forever. I'd love to trade my 325ci to a 135i or a 335xi one day, but not in this economic mess!
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Nov 9, 2008 04:27
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I flushed my brake fluid, and replaced the clutch delay valve with a higher-flow version recently. I ran into some problems bleeding the system, using a vacuum bleeder, as it sounded like a safer solution than a pressure bleeder. I found that as soon as it was opened enough to allow any fluid out, it sucked air through the bleeder screw threads. It still sucked fluid (a very slow trickle) out as well, and after letting it go for a while it had pulled the old fluid out and was sucking fresh fluid through. But now my clutch and brake pedals feel very slightly spongy. The clutch engages and disengages properly, and the brakes stop the car with plenty of force, the pedals just don't feel quite right. Would it be worth trying to bleed them again with a pressure bleeder?
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Nov 9, 2008 14:51
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Taymar posted:I flushed my brake fluid, and replaced the clutch delay valve with a higher-flow version recently.
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Nov 9, 2008 15:21
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Xenoid posted:I would just do it again, you don't need any tools but they help. Why didn't you remove the CDV outright? It's an awful piece of poo poo. Speaking of this, what years and models had the CDV?
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Nov 9, 2008 16:49
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Xenoid posted:I would just do it again, you don't need any tools but they help. Why didn't you remove the CDV outright? It's an awful piece of poo poo. I wanted to avoid bending the hard line, and keep the stock appearance. It definitely seems much nicer than with the original CDV, even with a slightly spongy clutch. I may be wrong here, but I think there's not a definitive list of which cars did and didn't have it (I've also heard european versions don't have it, but can't verify). It's easy to check if your car has it by looking at the slave cylinder lines though, it's an extra piece between the hard line from the cylinder, and the flexible line which goes to the master cylinder. On my car it was mounted to a bracket.
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Nov 9, 2008 17:33
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oops, quote is not edit.
Taymar fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Nov 9, 2008 |
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Nov 9, 2008 17:34
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Taymar posted:I wanted to avoid bending the hard line, and keep the stock appearance. It definitely seems much nicer than with the original CDV, even with a slightly spongy clutch You can buy the unions and lengths of tubing at the auto parts store for this. It was less than 10 bucks to do it on my friend's 240. Just remove the CDV completely and replace it with a bent piece of tubing and two unions to screw it together, no bending anything stock and it goes right back very easily if you don't like it or something. It will feel a lot better, unless you are the most awful stick driver ever.
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Nov 9, 2008 23:45
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we are your friends posted:my keychain that can be filed as a lethal weapon in certain states and wards off rapists. Does anybody know how to get playlists to show up if I'm plugging in a USB drive? I made a test playlist (.m3u, which the owner's manual states is supported), put it in a folder called "Playlists" which is at the root of the drive. The folder shows up, but there is nothing in it. Also, what types of ID3 tags are supported? All my music is tagged but some of the info doesn't show up. This is for my 08 MINI Clubman but I assume any late model BMW would be the same.
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Nov 10, 2008 00:28
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Lowclock posted:You can buy the unions and lengths of tubing at the auto parts store for this. It was less than 10 bucks to do it on my friend's 240. Just remove the CDV completely and replace it with a bent piece of tubing and two unions to screw it together, no bending anything stock and it goes right back very easily if you don't like it or something. That's a really good idea, wish I'd thought of that. The modified valve I got is certainly pricey for what it is ($35 + shipping for a $15 BMW part that has had the restriction baffle removed). I drove the car for longer today and it has made a massive difference, the 1-2 shift is less jerky, but the best thing is that it's completely eliminated the crunch/notchiness I had going into 3rd. I was seriously considering a transmission rebuild and tried this as a last resort. I think there was someone else here having crunchy shift issues with their zhp; I'd definitely recommend giving this a shot before trying anything more costly.
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Nov 10, 2008 00:38
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The best way to fix the CDV is just remove the actual valve and then thread the line into the slave cylinder. There's lots of slack so that you can do this, and bending the tube a bit is fine, it's meant to do that. As for cars that have it, I imagine the E46s and E39s have it (non M of course). My early E36 didn't, but I don't know about the later ones. If you have to ask if it's the mod for you, just remember that no M cars have it. I removed the CDV from my E39 when I did a clutch job on it. Brand new clutch/pressure plate/bearings/no CDV all at once was just amazing. The CDV actually made me stall the car a few times, I hate it.
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Nov 10, 2008 04:02
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CornHolio posted:Speaking of this, what years and models had the CDV? Hard to tell. Some early E46's didn't have it and most later (2002+) did. My early production 2001 did NOT have it, but my buddies later production 2001 DID. Most E39's had it as did most E36 M3's. I'm not convinced the CDV is as big a deal as people make it out to be, or maybe what they are feeling is in their heads. I've driven plenty of cars with and without and I can't feel a difference. My E46 330i didn't have it but my E39 530i did. Same engine and transmission and I could still drop the clutch and light up the tires with DSC off on both cars and I couldn't feel anything "funny" with the clutch in the E39 that I didn't also feel in the E46. I drove my 330i without a CDV back to back with my friends 330i with a CDV and neither of us could feel anything different between the cars. I'm sure some are sensitive enough to feel it, but I'd wager, given a double-blind test, most people wouldn't be able to tell a car with and one without, apart. Xenoid posted:If you have to ask if it's the mod for you, just remember that no M cars have it. Not true. It was on later E36 M3's and people have found them on E46 M3s from about 2003 on. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Nov 10, 2008 |
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Nov 10, 2008 04:16
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Brock Landers posted:I'm sure some are sensitive enough to feel it, but I'd wager, given a double-blind test, most people wouldn't be able to tell a car with and one without, apart. My bad. I just know the M5s never had that crap and the 540s did and thought it was the same on the E36/E46 M3s too. I never noticed it on the E36 M3s I drove but they more than likely didn't have it (being second hand and owned by enthusiasts).
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Nov 10, 2008 05:07
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My apologies if this has already been covered, but is there a good place to buy a replacement headliner? The one in my '95 318ti is sagging (I understand it's a relatively common problem), and I'd like to get it replaced. So, does anyone know of a relatively cheap place to get one? And about how much should I pay a shop to install it?
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Nov 10, 2008 20:45
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I'm doing the waterpump and fan clutch in my E36 tomorrow and I was wondering if there is anything special I need to look out for or if it is just as straight forward as it appears to be. I have the fan clutch holder tool as well as the 32mm wrench, so I should be good to go.
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Nov 11, 2008 01:12
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frozenphil posted:I'm doing the waterpump and fan clutch in my E36 tomorrow and I was wondering if there is anything special I need to look out for or if it is just as straight forward as it appears to be. I have the fan clutch holder tool as well as the 32mm wrench, so I should be good to go. Remove the fan (can be easier said than done). Remove the pulley. Remove the belt. Drain coolant. Remove water pump. Replace water pump, install reverse of removal. It shouldn't take much longer than an hour and a half.
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Nov 11, 2008 01:32
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