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http://www.ddmtuning.com/hidkihidbuhi.html HID Bulbs (pair) D2S 4500K $25+$5 Duhhh, they're the D2S connector. Five bucks extra. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Dec 4, 2008 |
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Dec 4, 2008 07:29
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:http://www.ddmtuning.com/hidkihidbuhi.html Anything that isn't Phillips, Osram, or another OEM brand is really a joke that I'd rather not deal with.
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Dec 4, 2008 08:00
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Pissingintowind posted:Anything that isn't Phillips, Osram, or another OEM brand is really a joke that I'd rather not deal with. Then your only other option is eBay for some OEM bulbs, they're around $90-100 a piece on there.
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Dec 4, 2008 08:23
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Then your only other option is eBay for some OEM bulbs, they're around $90-100 a piece on there. Yeah, apparently the eBay ones are factory rejects that last half as long  . Oh well, not my money at least, heh.Thanks for the help!
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Dec 4, 2008 08:46
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Pissingintowind posted:
The only other thing you can check (besides a simple loose wire) are the ballasts/ignitors, and those are more expensive anyway. Get some D2S Osram or Phillips bulbs from ebay or anywhere online. They'll be cheaper than the dealer.
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Dec 4, 2008 14:17
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Arwox posted:Driving on the highway at a constant 60 miles an hour, the steering wheel gradually started to shake back and forth, until it started to make the whole car vibrate. It still steered fine but everything was just vibrating. After a few minutes it gradually went away. My E39 did this and it was a (slightly) bent rim. I even had the tires balanced on one of those fancy Hunter 9000 machines. Try swapping your full size spare (if it's in good shape) around to all your wheels. That's how I found it.
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Dec 4, 2008 14:19
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Arwox posted:Driving on the highway at a constant 60 miles an hour, the steering wheel gradually started to shake back and forth, until it started to make the whole car vibrate. It still steered fine but everything was just vibrating. After a few minutes it gradually went away. Could also be LCABs or ball joints. I have an e36 323, and my steering wheel would vibrate at 65, every time. Once the LCABs were replaced, everything was fine.
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Dec 4, 2008 14:48
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Something is hosed up with my heater core but I'm not sure how bad. The car does have heat, it takes a while to get it (even at operating temp), but eventually I do get it. I need to turn the fan on high to initially get any hot air but once it comes out hot I can turn it down to any setting where it will stay hot for a bit but it will eventually turn cold (until I crank it back to full to 'recharge' the core). I've replaced the coolant twice since this started happening last winter so it don't think there is an air bubble anywhere in the system. Could this indicate a clogged heater core? Would I need to replace the valve at the same time?
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Dec 4, 2008 14:59
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two_beer_bishes posted:Something is hosed up with my heater core but I'm not sure how bad. The car does have heat, it takes a while to get it (even at operating temp), but eventually I do get it. I need to turn the fan on high to initially get any hot air but once it comes out hot I can turn it down to any setting where it will stay hot for a bit but it will eventually turn cold (until I crank it back to full to 'recharge' the core). Could just be a sticky heater core valve. The valve opens all the way when you turn the dial all the way up, then you lower it, the desired temperature is reached and the computer closes the valve, it gets stuck and doesn't reopen. See if you can operate the valve by applying the opening voltage directly to it.
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Dec 4, 2008 15:36
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Brock Landers posted:The only other thing you can check (besides a simple loose wire) are the ballasts/ignitors, and those are more expensive anyway. Get some D2S Osram or Phillips bulbs from ebay or anywhere online. They'll be cheaper than the dealer. Haha, that price is from rmeuropean.com, one of the cheapest sites to get things from. Dealer price is $270 each  .Anyway, how would I "check" the ballasts and ignitors?
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Dec 4, 2008 16:16
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Pissingintowind posted:Haha, that price is from rmeuropean.com, one of the cheapest sites to get things from. Dealer price is $270 each Get a known good bulb and put it in. Get a multimeter and check the voltage going into the ballasts via the harness. If everything looks good going into it, and the known good bulb doesn't light, you have a bad ballast.
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Dec 4, 2008 16:21
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Brock Landers posted:Could just be a sticky heater core valve. The valve opens all the way when you turn the dial all the way up, then you lower it, the desired temperature is reached and the computer closes the valve, it gets stuck and doesn't reopen. See if you can operate the valve by applying the opening voltage directly to it. Now that you mention that, I did turn the temp knob to full cold then back to full hot and I could hear the solenoid working, but since I did that the heat has been even less effective (as in I had heat the instant the car got up to temp, none of this waiting bullshit). So it might be the valve after all, I'll see if I can manually apply power to it to test it. Could the switch be the problem instead?
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Dec 4, 2008 16:40
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two_beer_bishes posted:Now that you mention that, I did turn the temp knob to full cold then back to full hot and I could hear the solenoid working, but since I did that the heat has been even less effective (as in I had heat the instant the car got up to temp, none of this waiting bullshit). So it might be the valve after all, I'll see if I can manually apply power to it to test it. Could the switch be the problem instead? Easy to check. Put a multimeter at the harness that goes to the valve and move the switch to full hot. See what changes on the multimeter. All BMWs since the 80s have climate control, so a temperature sensor in the cabin tells a computer when to open and close the valves based on the temperature it sees. If you crank it to full hot though, it will produce heat regardless. I *think* the Bentley manuals have a test procedure for different parts of the climate control that would be helpful here.
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Dec 4, 2008 17:10
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As long as I'm here, I may as well ask: Was a Behr radiator a good choice? I replaced the cooling system last year and my guy hooked me up with a Behr. It looks the business, but I'm just curious after hanging out with some Ireland Engineering guys at Watkins.
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Dec 4, 2008 17:41
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two_beer_bishes posted:Those water valves default to the open position (as in powered closed, rest is open). I have seen the A/C controller itself power up the valve erroneously. Try disconnecting the connector to the valve, and see if you get heat normally.
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Dec 4, 2008 17:54
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The Rocket Salad posted:As long as I'm here, I may as well ask: Behr is the stock replacement. Expect it to go in 65,000 miles or so. Ireland Engineering makes a really good aluminum radiator that I'm waiting on a group buy or free shipping deal for before I pick one up.
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Dec 4, 2008 18:09
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Alright, thanks for the info guys, I'll dig out the Bentley tonight and give those tests a shot!
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Dec 4, 2008 18:34
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I was talking to a buddy of mine and he talked about E30 3's eating headgaskets on a regular basis? Truth?
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Dec 4, 2008 18:34
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Fart Car '97 posted:I was talking to a buddy of mine and he talked about E30 3's eating headgaskets on a regular basis? Truth? Which engine? The M20s didn't have a reputation for it. They DID have a reputation for snapping head BOLTS in the early production runs, but that's not the same. The M42 had a profile gasket failure which had symptoms similar to a failed headgasket. A newer design corrected this so no M42 should be "eating" headgaskets at this point.
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Dec 4, 2008 19:02
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Brock Landers posted:Which engine? The M20s didn't have a reputation for it. They DID have a reputation for snapping head BOLTS in the early production runs, but that's not the same. The M42 had a profile gasket failure which had symptoms similar to a failed headgasket. A newer design corrected this so no M42 should be "eating" headgaskets at this point. The head bolts thing is also a maintenence thing. If the car you're looking at has records, it should be indicated somewhere that they were changed. When I bought my 325 that was one of the things I looked for.
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Dec 4, 2008 23:46
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New z4 anybody? I'm not sure if I appreciate the lowest common denominator approach with a hard-top-convertible but at least it looks good from behind: (catalogue picture leak) All the crazy reflections on the hood make the front hard to judge, but I'd say it has a 50/50 shot at coming out good: (on the set of some movie being filmed) 
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Dec 5, 2008 00:36
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Looks too Z3 (clownshoe) and not Z4 enough for me. The Z4 is my favourite looking BMW (the hardtop especially) and I was thinking of test driving one just because they're incredibly sexy..I think they might be too low on power coming from a 540 though. I was looking at slightly used Mercs with 8-12 cylinders on Ebay last night and some of them are amazing and cheap but no manual transmissions makes me really sad It's really hard to find manual transmission BMWs (5 series, especially in Canada) and it looks like they didn't even have the option of it in MBs.
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Dec 5, 2008 00:44
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Xenoid posted:Looks too Z3 (clownshoe) and not Z4 enough for me. The Z4 is my favourite looking BMW (the hardtop especially) and I was thinking of test driving one just because they're incredibly sexy..I think they might be too low on power coming from a 540 though. The current Z4 is at the end of a cycle, not the middle, so the new one is effectively a new car. You shouldn't expect it to look like the old one, and it certainly doesn't look anything like the Z3. The new one will have the twin turbo I6 with over 300 horsepower, so power shouldn't be an issue. That being said, the current Z4 is only very slightly down on power but also 800lbs lighter than your 540i. It doesn't have that lazy V8 grunt but it is much much faster.
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Dec 5, 2008 01:03
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Pissingintowind posted:Also, when one of these goes out, is it usually a bulb or something more serious? I have no experience with HID lights. Could also be the ignitor or control unit. The easiest way to diagnose this is to swap parts from left to right, starting with bulb then ignitor. If neither cause to the problem to travel, then take a look at the control unit.
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Dec 5, 2008 01:32
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Brock Landers posted:My E39 did this and it was a (slightly) bent rim. I even had the tires balanced on one of those fancy Hunter 9000 machines. Try swapping your full size spare (if it's in good shape) around to all your wheels. That's how I found it. emanonii posted:Could also be LCABs or ball joints. I have an e36 323, and my steering wheel would vibrate at 65, every time. Once the LCABs were replaced, everything was fine. The thing is, it has only happened two times. Not always at a certain speed.
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Dec 5, 2008 02:03
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ynotony posted:The current Z4 is at the end of a cycle, not the middle, so the new one is effectively a new car. You shouldn't expect it to look like the old one, and it certainly doesn't look anything like the Z3. The new one will have the twin turbo I6 with over 300 horsepower, so power shouldn't be an issue. New BMW engines are good but the old ones were a bit lacking in power and horribly expensive to modify. I couldn't afford this new Z4 so I was looking at the hardtop 2003~ Z4s around $13k for shits and giggles. They are a lot lighter than my 540 and have somewhat decent power figures but I don't think I could stand to drive it unless it had the engine of the 335 in it. The 335 is one of the only 6 cylinders I would consider (other than Porsche boxer 6s) because the way the turbos are always spooled made it feel like driving a V8. I just like the characteristics of the power and torque of having a V8 :P It's what made me decide E39 540 over E36 M3, besides the fact that E36 M3s look kind of 'ricey' (or just often driven by ricers) and old looking (but not in the awesome E30 way).
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Dec 5, 2008 02:31
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My UUC SwayBarbarians arrived today. Hopefully I'm done feeling like poo poo tomorrow so I can install them. God drat they look beefy.
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Dec 5, 2008 03:21
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Today I switched from some worn out Bridgestone Potenza 930i's in 205/65r15 to BFG G-Force Sport 225/60r15, and man what a difference. The BFGs are quieter, smoother, and somehow both more responsive and more forgiving. If your car has 15x7s on it, I can definitely recommend these.
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Dec 5, 2008 03:46
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ynotony posted:The new one will have the twin turbo I6 with over 300 horsepower, so power shouldn't be an issue. 
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Dec 5, 2008 04:04
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So, the M3 (E36) is getting retardedly hot. At idle or anything under 50mph it gets red. The only reason it's cooling down at speed, I'm guessing, is because there's enough air flow to cool the motor... The thermostat is only a few months old, but I'm guessing that's it. Previous owner did an auxiliary fan delete though. Anyone have any other ideas as to what might be wrong?
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Dec 5, 2008 05:56
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My E30 is hating the cold in MN right now and it's only going to get colder. I really want to get a block heater for it but the only one I can find fits a 44.5mm freeze plug and the M20 engine has 45mm plugs. I know BMW made block heaters for the M20 but they are incredibly hard to find, but the one I found on amazon.com seems to be good enough (at least if the size isn't an issue). So tell me, do you think the 0.5mm difference will be a factor?
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Dec 5, 2008 13:35
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JaySB posted:So, the M3 (E36) is getting retardedly hot. At idle or anything under 50mph it gets red. The only reason it's cooling down at speed, I'm guessing, is because there's enough air flow to cool the motor... Auxiliary fan delete? My Auxiliary fan only comes on with the A/C or if I'm idling for a long time. So under normal driving its absence shouldn't be an issue. See if your car cools down if you drive it around at a constant 4,000 RPM (regardless of MPH). Driving at a higher RPM will speed up your water pump and increase the coolant flow. Airflow shouldn't be the issue, you probably have a leak somewhere and don't have enough coolant. Check your coolant reservoir (only when the car is cold!!). As another check, next time your car gets up to temperature check and see if your heater is working properly. At idle, and at anything other can cold operating temperature, the heater should be blowing hot air constantly.
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Dec 5, 2008 18:50
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I'm looking at picking up an E30 for a daily driver in a few weeks, because I need a car, and I love E30s. The specific car is a 1987 325i that looks to be in great shape. It's got 114k miles on it, which is about mid range for a well priced E30. I'm worried, though, that this might be a terrible idea. I'm not retarded, but I'm also not too experienced with the nuts and bolts (hah) of cars, and I really can't afford to have someone fix any major problems that might occur. Even if I could fix it myself, it would probably be hard to fund in my current situation. So what do you guys think? Would I be biting off more than I could chew? Is it going to be dependable or should I forget about it and look at something else? Edit: Also, on a sort of unrelated note, do these cars have tilt steering wheels?
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Dec 6, 2008 02:53
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KillerFuzzball posted:I'm looking at picking up an E30 for a daily driver in a few weeks, because I need a car, and I love E30s. The specific car is a 1987 325i that looks to be in great shape. It's got 114k miles on it, which is about mid range for a well priced E30. As long as you look over the cooling system with a fine tooth comb, and make sure the timing belt has been changed, it shouldn't be TOO bad. Those are the common failure points. Those are the major things about E30s, and E36s. They do not have tilt steering wheels.
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Dec 6, 2008 03:58
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KillerFuzzball posted:So what do you guys think? Would I be biting off more than I could chew? Is it going to be dependable or should I forget about it and look at something else? Eh. E30s are indeed fantastic cars and they are overbuilt and generally dependable. But a car from 1987 is still a car from 1987. Things WILL wear out or break and you will be fixing this or that on a regular basis. Since I bought my E30, I've replaced all cooling and vacuum hoses ($200 in parts + a day of my labor) and the rear diff mount ($20 and half a day's labor). I still have something that isn't quite right in the drive shaft or it's mounting, so I'll be back under there inspecting things again this weekend and probably replacing something else next weekend. Oh and my exhaust is leaking so I'll probably need to have that welded or replace it next summer. And my tires are on their last legs. My car came with all records since day 1 as well and was maintained to the letter, so these are just things that wear out with time. If you enjoy cars, enjoy working on cars, and have the time to work on cars OR have the bank to get the "this n' thats" repaired at a shop, you're a good candidate for a 20 year old car. I'm not trying to dissuade you, just trying to give you a reality check.
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Dec 6, 2008 04:48
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Well, I talked to a good mechanic today, he thinks it's pretty impossible for it to have been blockage, and the only possibilities are PS pump failure or the pressure switch sticking open. Either way it needs a new PS pump. His prices are really good, around $200 for the pump and $120 for the labor and fluids. My question is this: #1) Is the older LF-20 pump bolt on compatible with no changes or anything needed aside from the pump? It's cheaper and has a better steering feel than the stock pump. #2) Is there anywhere you know of where I can get a rebuilt pump online cheaper than this? #3) How hard would it be for me to replace this thing myself? I'm thinking it might be messy and I'm worried I might screw up a good pump, or that I might need some specialized tools to deal with the hoses/etc. Any thoughts?
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Dec 6, 2008 05:21
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Brock Landers posted:Eh. E30s are indeed fantastic cars and they are overbuilt and generally dependable. But a car from 1987 is still a car from 1987. Things WILL wear out or break and you will be fixing this or that on a regular basis. Since I bought my E30, I've replaced all cooling and vacuum hoses ($200 in parts + a day of my labor) and the rear diff mount ($20 and half a day's labor). I still have something that isn't quite right in the drive shaft or it's mounting, so I'll be back under there inspecting things again this weekend and probably replacing something else next weekend. Oh and my exhaust is leaking so I'll probably need to have that welded or replace it next summer. And my tires are on their last legs. My car came with all records since day 1 as well and was maintained to the letter, so these are just things that wear out with time. If you enjoy cars, enjoy working on cars, and have the time to work on cars OR have the bank to get the "this n' thats" repaired at a shop, you're a good candidate for a 20 year old car. I'm not trying to dissuade you, just trying to give you a reality check. This is the only thing stopping me from getting an E30. I can afford one, but probably not the niggling things that will need to be done regardless of how well kept it was
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Dec 6, 2008 22:22
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I test drove a new 135i yesterday, with beige Boston leather and the sport package w/ 6spd. What a hoot. I love my e46 330 to death and I've never really liked any of the new BMWs because they're missing that "connected-to-the-road" feeling, where you can really feel whats going on with the car. The 135i, however, had that in spades. You knew exactly where you were, the car just had oodles of torque in any gear, and it just felt like it wanted to keep revving forever. Even doing 50 on the highway in 6th, you could put your foot down and it'd leap forward like it was stung. The seats were marvelously grippy and comfortable (only the M5 had seats as nice as the 1, the 545 and 335 were just kinda "oh these are nice" but they weren't anywhere near as soft as the 1), and the car felt like a driver-centric cockpit. Much more so than the other ones I drove that day (04 545i, 07 335i, 06 M5). While the 545 and the M5 were faster, neither of them had the same joy as the 135. The M5 was an SMG, and I've always held to the opinion that you can feel the power delivery MUCH better out of a classic manual vs. a SMG or DSG. I looked over leasing options but even a $600/mo-36mo. lease wouldn't really be worth it on one. My current plan is to finish paying my e46 off and then look into picking up an 06ish 6-spd M5 for ~$40-50k. That also depends on how the 09 CTS-V compares to the M5. I haven't been able to drive one yet, so who knows. Seriously, if you're in the market, or even if you're not and you just want to have a fun 20 minutes, GO DRIVE A 6SPD 135i! You won't regret it.
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Dec 7, 2008 20:09
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Nait Sirhc posted:
I drove a 135i with the auto when BMW had the Drive for the Cure thing, and I agree with this man. It is an amazingly loving awesome car. I need to go check out a six-speed.
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Dec 8, 2008 03:00
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So, I think I found an E30, and it's local to boot. It's not exactly what I was looking for though. I was planning on buying a stock 325i or e for a 2.7L stroker for daily / autocross. I'll be damned if I could find what I was looking for though - an 87-91 coupe in black with clean paint and good mechanicals. Black ones just never pop up for sale However, there has been an e30 for sale locally for a while now. It's not stock though - it's a track / autocross car. dual 2.5" side pipes out the passenger side - not cat, no muffler - interior has no carpet, door trim, sound deadening, or rear seats - still has the dash and center console though. A laundry list of suspension mods, and.. An OBD1 converted S52, swapped by Treehouse racing. The engine is stock aside from the OBD1 conversion, and it's mated to a 260 Getrag and a 3.73 LSD. It has a small rust hole in the passenger's floorboard, and some slight bubbling on the driver's floorboard, but he claims no other rust. It's been semi prepped for paint. It's seen 10k miles since the swap - I'm not sure how much of that has been track time though. And I trust John's work on the swap. The cooling system was completely gone over when it was done. The chassis has ~200k and the motor ~90k. I plan on bringing a friend to look at the car on friday. If it seems good I'll be taking it to Treehouse for a PPI of sorts. The electronics all work apparently, which is also a plus. From a glance at the pictures, to get in good daily drivable shape it's going to need some euro ellipsoids, interior trim, and exhaust work. Then it's on to paint, ect. He's asking $6500. Sound reasonable? What should I check for? besides the floorboards and battery tray, are there any other common rust spots? I'll be sure to have the thing up on jackstands, and he has no problem with me taking it for a spin. I'll imagine the suspension would be hard on the kidneys for daily driving, but I'm young  The last E30 I almost looked at had terminal cancer (rear strut tower rust). I'm hoping this one is better.
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Dec 9, 2008 02:26
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