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RealKyleH posted:I am going to post up a big review of a bunch of HF tools after xmas but I am sorta curious, would anyone be interested if I started a tool deal watching thread in coupons? I tend to watch sales pretty closely and would add some instructions for how patient people can find great deals on stuff. I would be very interested!
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Dec 24, 2008 05:13
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RealKyleH posted:I am going to post up a big review of a bunch of HF tools after xmas but I am sorta curious, would anyone be interested if I started a tool deal watching thread in coupons? I tend to watch sales pretty closely and would add some instructions for how patient people can find great deals on stuff. Absolutely. My brother in law is a diesel mechanic who used to park his tools at my house, but now he's found another job and has taken his tools away.  So you realise how spoiled you get having every possible tool available once they aren't there.
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Dec 24, 2008 14:11
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RealKyleH posted:I am going to post up a big review of a bunch of HF tools after xmas but I am sorta curious, would anyone be interested if I started a tool deal watching thread in coupons? I tend to watch sales pretty closely and would add some instructions for how patient people can find great deals on stuff. That'd be sweet. Post a link here or I'll never find the thread.
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Dec 24, 2008 22:00
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I started it. It will take a bit to get finished. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3040563
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Dec 24, 2008 23:08
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RealKyleH posted:I started it. It will take a bit to get finished. That looks terrific!! Also looking forward to your reviews.
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Dec 25, 2008 21:45
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RealKyleH posted:I started it. It will take a bit to get finished. Thanks!
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Dec 25, 2008 22:09
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grover posted:Do NOT do this! WD40 will coat everything, and you can't get rid of it. Also, it's an insulator. Special-made electronics cleaner does an even better job, and evaporates completely after you've used it. I have a can of electronics cleaner I bought at AutoZone years ago, and I use it constantly for cleaning electronic connectors.
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Dec 26, 2008 02:55
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Just picked up a few things from MSC: Test indicator with magnetic base O.D. Mic Double-ended edge finder Also, got magnetic ball end hex keys, they are great. Next up is gonna be a set of carbide twist drills, but they are loving expensive. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Dec 26, 2008 |
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Dec 26, 2008 09:26
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A Dial test indicator will probably be my next purchase and I can see why you'd buy that new but god drat did you seriously pay $90 for that mitutoyo mic? I see staretts all the time on ebay for very reasonable prices and in fact got one with some other SPI and american branded measuring stuff with a tool case I bought from an older welder on craigslist. Also HF sells a magnetic base for like $15 - 20% off. I just bought one and one of their 1" travel dial indicators. It doesn't have the resolution I want but it will do for now. I am cheap as hell when it comes to tools unless its something, like a test indicator, that you need ot be very accurate and have a high degree of resolution. Are you buying all new brand name stuff from MSC? EDIT: And yea a full set of carbide twist drills is going to be really really expensive. I've been thinking about buying some from overseas like pakistan of china as I want a set. What exactly are you using all this stuff for? EDIT2: haha holy loving poo poo http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2045246&PMT4NO=55683038 EDIT3 and the last one: I just checked on ebay you could put together that same set of carbide jobber length drill bits for around $200 if you contacted the seller and combined shipping. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Dec 26, 2008 |
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Dec 26, 2008 09:40
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Starret's quality has gone to poo poo in the last couple decades and while I know some of their equipment is still top notch (at work we have a WELL stocked machine shop and all our measuring equipment is Starret), I would rather not take a chance and get a poo poo piece. I have just heard too many bad things about them lately. EDIT: I am slowly accumulating my machinist's tools and I am aiming at getting one tool and not having to buy another one to replace it, ever. Like I said, we have all the stuff I need at work, but of course I want my own! I haven't been watching ebay or craigslist as much as I should be, as I know I can find some killer deals on there. I recently started my machinist's apprenticeship hence these kinda tools. At work I troubleshoot and fix machines in production more than machine work. But sometimes we have to make custom parts to fix something. 2 weeks ago I had to fix a worm gear by boring out the end of the shaft, make an insert, cut keyways in it, harden, and put together. Then I made a new input shaft for an air clutch that connects to the gearbox that the aforementioned worm gear goes in. So it's Maintenence Machinist work, which is what I am receiving my training in. Not a lot of machining work, and no production work, but I still get to have fun on the lathes and mills from time to time. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Dec 26, 2008 |
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Dec 26, 2008 09:50
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Ive honestly yet to see a mic that cant measure to whatever the resolution on it is accurately unless it was one of those $15 chinese ones trying to measure tenths and it had been dropped. I have only been measuring things for about 3 years though. Also stop by the metalworking megathread and say hi. Machinists are largely overshadowed by fat guys with hammers making roses and katanas out of railroad spikes.
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Dec 26, 2008 09:54
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^^ I already did, posted some pics of where I work in there if you want to check some of the awesome stuff I get to play with out.
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Dec 26, 2008 10:02
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I'm looking for a halfway decent micrometer. I need to it measure shims on motorcycles, which come in .05mm increments, so it needs to be at least .01mm accurate. I found a cheap digital one on ebay that served me well for about a year, but then it gave up the ghost. Should I just order a couple of new cheap digital ones or is there one that I can go out and buy that'll last me longer? I prefer digital, but could be convinced otherwise.
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Dec 26, 2008 17:42
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Z3n posted:I'm looking for a halfway decent micrometer. I need to it measure shims on motorcycles, which come in .05mm increments, so it needs to be at least .01mm accurate. I found a cheap digital one on ebay that served me well for about a year, but then it gave up the ghost. Should I just order a couple of new cheap digital ones or is there one that I can go out and buy that'll last me longer? I prefer digital, but could be convinced otherwise. I've amazingly had decent luck with the cheap Chinese mics. I buy 3 at a time, and when they die, I toss 'em. I always have a precision "standard" to check them with (like a shim that you know is .05mm) and they never get out of whack unless abused (dropped).
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Dec 26, 2008 18:21
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sharkytm posted:I've amazingly had decent luck with the cheap Chinese mics. I buy 3 at a time, and when they die, I toss 'em. I always have a precision "standard" to check them with (like a shim that you know is .05mm) and they never get out of whack unless abused (dropped). Yeah, mine get bashed around in my toolbox. I'll probably pick up 3 then, and drop one where I store the bikes, one at mine place as a spare, and one in the toolbox to get abused, unless someone else has a reference to the micrometer to end all micrometers 
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Dec 26, 2008 18:56
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 This will be updated many times before its finished EDIT: I think I might do this on my Machine Shop Blog so I can get some traffic there as well as add all the other items I have already done in this thread. I've bought a bunch of poo poo from harbor freight and seen almost everything they've got. You can ask me if it sucks or is good about just about anything. Countersink Deburring set: If you need to deburr anything more than aluminum, this isn't really for you. Magnetic Machinist Base: Works just as good as any other but costs $15 - coupons 1" Travel Indicator: Frequently on sale for about $8 this is a decent, cheap indicator. That is if a resolution/accuracy of .001" is acceptable for you. The nice thing is though if you drop it you can just throw it out. Magnetic light: I have this on my lathe, it is awesome. Didnt need to fabricate anything and seems like it would stick in most places/semi flar surfaces like, for exmaple, under a car when a hanging light won't do. 3W LED Maglite: This works ok, I have not tried their red and blue 2 pack but usually those lights are pretty terrible. This one is ok as $20 flashlights go but cant even compare to a nice $50-60 one. If you wanted one for concealed carry, this is not it. If you wanted just a small white LED flashlight that you dont have to worry about if it breaks, its a decent investment especially witht he recent 20% off coupons. Electrical connectors/heatshrink tubing: They have the best deals on ellectrical connectors. Really very very good. Youre getting ripped off if you go to auto zone. They even sell those vampire/quick connectors cheaply in Red/Blue/Yellow. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Dec 27, 2008 |
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Dec 27, 2008 07:42
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I want a basic multimeter -- AC/DC, ohms, amps. It's a nice bonus if it has a test light feature. I know I can get one elsewhere, but for convenience I'd like to glom it onto my HF order. These seem ok: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37772 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95342 Do you have any beefs with them? The pen one seems easier to use, but then I think maybe the pen part would be hard to wedge into certain nooks. And it could be really slow at auto-ranging.
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Dec 27, 2008 11:04
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kimbo305 posted:I want a basic multimeter -- AC/DC, ohms, amps. It's a nice bonus if it has a test light feature. I picked up a multimeter from Harbor Freight for $2.99 plus tax. It included the 9v battery even, and I have no complaints on it. Has everything you'd expect. A day later, the same multimeter went on sale for $1.99.
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Dec 27, 2008 11:29
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I too have gotten the super cheap ones Complaints: No auto off feature so the battery tends to run out. Plastic breaks really easily, one of my probed has the plastic slot is slides into it broke off inside it. Worth the money though. Never needed one with more features so I haven't tried those.
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Dec 27, 2008 14:29
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Someone told me you shouldn't use a multimeter that has an ac/dc button on AC. Is there any truth to this? I used it to test my 240v 40a hot tub and it worked fine. He said his professor said its a bad idea?
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Dec 27, 2008 15:03
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I have a screwdriver with two heads. Phillips and Flathead. I was told that I shouldn't use the flathead because it does both. ..... No, it's perfectly fine to use the AC setting on your multimeter.
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Dec 27, 2008 20:48
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Eh, HF had a pretty decent wrench package on sale the other day. Metric/Standard combo, pretty much every size you could want, 25 wrench? for $13. I needed metrics too. Philadelphia brand. also they had a box of 50 assorted peg board hangers for $6?. I picked up 3 and finally used my pegboard in the garage. Now all my tools are hung up all pretty like  Even my wife was happy, so she could take stuff and not put it back  anyone know of a cheap impact wrench? Corded is fine, I have 120 and 220 VAC service in my garage. I was thinking of going the compressor route..but I really dont want to spend ~$500 on air tools, when I only need a wrench for tire stuff.
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Dec 29, 2008 22:29
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Lando posted:Eh, HF had a pretty decent wrench package on sale the other day. Metric/Standard combo, pretty much every size you could want, 25 wrench? for $13. I needed metrics too. Philadelphia brand. I got two boxes of their pegboard holders and they do make your tools look beautiful. I have two almost 3 complete sets of standard and at least two sets of metrics. I keep one in my tool box but its pretty much pointless because those pegs are so much better. I never did do my big tool review.... :/ Ill get around to it, just been busy.
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Dec 30, 2008 00:53
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grover posted:Do NOT do this! WD40 will coat everything, and you can't get rid of it. Also, it's an insulator. Special-made electronics cleaner does an even better job, and evaporates completely after you've used it. I have a can of electronics cleaner I bought at AutoZone years ago, and I use it constantly for cleaning electronic connectors. Coating everything: use the straw Insulator: helps prevent shorts even better Leaves a film: prevents moisture buildup I agree that there is nothing better for cleaning electronics than an electronics cleaner. I am a firm believer in using the proper tool. If you want to clean, use a cleaner (not WD40). If you want to lubricate, use a lubricant (not WD40). If you want to penetrate, use a penetrating solution (not WD40). If you want to get rid of moisture, use WD40. That is what it is supposed to do. And any other water displacer is going to be the same thing (mineral spirits, petroleum distillates) and probably more expensive and harder to find. I hate how WD40 is regarded as some magical cure all because it does a thousand things very terribly, but getting rid of moisture is the one thing that it is truly good at and what it should be used for. sharkytm posted:WD40 is designed as a wire dryer, not as a contact cleaner. It was actually designed to keep Cold War rockets from rusting. Don't want to deliver any inferior goods to the commies
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Dec 30, 2008 01:35
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Coating everything: use the straw Christ, THIS!!! I was instructed to use WD40 as a gun cleaner/lubricant..actually, its in the policy for my job. I'll stick to Hoppes brand and MILTEC thank you loving much. Nothing like a gummed up trigger grouping when you need to defend yourself.
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Dec 30, 2008 02:22
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WD40 is awesome at fixing stuck up air ratchets FYI.
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Dec 30, 2008 05:47
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:
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Dec 30, 2008 06:06
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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I have been very good to the nation of China, here's a breakdown of good/bad harbor freight junk I bought/was dumb enough to buy. Ratcheting terminal crimper - I was gonna buy one of these from partsexpress.com till I saw that HF had the same thing locally for half the price. This is the only crimp tool that I can make secure, clean and solid crimps with. I can literally jerk on the connector and it won't slip off. I used to stuggle with those old school "mashes the insulation off and the connector falls off anyway" crimpers. Never again. My brother re-wired his VW with it and I'll probably end up doing the same. Partsexpress has add-on jaws for Coax and Ethernet too, I might try them. tire bead breaker - good enough at least for 15" VW wheels. Tire shop won't do it for free anymore, so this pays for itself $10 breaker bar - Best tool in my car's trunk, easily frees up siezed and marred-up lug bolts. I use a Craftsman socket. Finish is tough and looks shiny. tire iron - works, i can get tires on and off a wheel just fine. Didn't bend. $12 torque wrench - works nice, but I never torqued anything more or less than 90-95ft/lbs. my wheels haven't fallen off yet anyway. Looks big and shiny. 12v battery charger - It charges my car battery, but there's no auto-shutoff so you have to babysit it. It charged my battery far past 100% because I forgot to check on it. Compression tester - Gave consistent readings on two engines. The o-rings got shredded, but the manual doesn't warn you about over-tightening on o-rings; we had no idea. I didn't try this on a fuel pump or anything like that. $2 multimeter - works as good as any multimeter, but the probes fell apart. New probes cost too much so I soldered them. "liquid wrench" silicon spray lube - works just as good as name-brand if you ask me. I want to try the "bike chain lube" soon (aka teflon oil). impact wrenches - I bought two different models, they both suck. Couldn't get the lugs off my car but my brother's industrial-style impact wrench did it fine on the same compressor. The breaker bar beats them all anyway. bi-metal hole saw kit - good enough to cut through a PC case $5 hole saw kit - poo poo, gets dull when you cut metal. Worked on wood. corded electric drill - wobbly piece of poo poo 1-speed dremel knockoff - poo poo pack of 100 utility razor blades - 100 totally useless blades. Duller than a sack of potatoes. measuring tape - don't run over it with a Toyota Tundra brass shoehorn - I use it every day, works great O_o Hit an Apex posted:- Harborfreight Heatgun - they are not durable at all. seconding this, my mom's fell apart in her hands. something with a heating element should not do that, I don't care how cheap you want to sell it for. RealKyleH posted:Electrical connectors/heatshrink tubing: I got a terminal set and found their spade connectors to be very flimsy. They appear to be plated for corrosion at least, but they bend like tinfoil. But If they had a 50-pack of quick-dsconnects I'd probably try it. Demie fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Dec 30, 2008 |
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Dec 30, 2008 11:39
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This should go without saying but HF's plain/bright finish, TiN, and Al/Black Oxide coated HSS (M2) drillbits are crap for drilling anything even sorta (Over 100 brinell). Haven't tried their cobalt but I use a Rigid Cobalt set for drilling anything that's stainless or mild steel.
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Dec 30, 2008 11:59
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Demie posted:12v battery charger - It charges my car battery, but there's no auto-shutoff so you have to babysit it. It charged my battery far past 100% because I forgot to check on it. I have this same charger and it's been pretty reliable so far. Two things come to mind when reading the specs: 6-8 hour charge time * One charger handles all your automotive, RV and small engine batteries * Automatically switches to trickle charge mode after battery is fully charged * 2 amp slow charge * Charges 12 volt batteries in 6 - 8 hours * 6-1/2 ft. long battery leads * 6-1/2 ft. long AC power cord * Equipped with ampmeter and self-resetting circuit breaker * Auto shutoff in 12V mode These bullet points refute what you're saying. Is yours not working? Also, it's my understanding that the internal resistance of a battery increases as the stored energy increases, so you can't really 'over-charge' a battery. Some people refer to boiling a battery as over-charging. Is this what happened to you?
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Dec 30, 2008 16:09
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I've bought about 300 things from HF, and at some point this winter, I'll make a post with all of them, linked. In the meantime... Here's the breakdown: If its electronic, and spins, it'll be junk. The only exception to this is the drill press I bought for work. Their grinders wobble a little, but are acceptable. Their small dremels, drills, jigsaws, and whatnot are total crap. Good for one job if you push them, but not worth the effort. If it has rechargeable batteries, they'll die quickly, and replacements aren't any better. If its a basic tool, it'll be awesome, and completely worth the $. Screwdrivers will bend easier than better counterparts, but they cost so little, it doesn't matter. Pliers and such are good. Wrenches are decent, but not for critical use because the tolerances are pretty loose. Anything with an edge will be dull and soft. (Drill bits, chisels, etc) I've got their 42" toolbox, and will be posting pictures of that once I get it set up. Its awesome, and better than the Craftsman ones costing 3x more. :edit: I forgot about air tools. Their air die grinder is OK, mine has a dead spot on it where if the shaft is turned to a specific spot, it'll stick, and you have to move it a fraction of an inch before it'll spin. Once it going, its perfect. The stones that came with it were OK, nothing to write home about. I've got an air ratchet, it works better than my craftsman one. No complaints. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Dec 30, 2008 |
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Dec 30, 2008 16:50
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I've bought a lot of HF air tools with mixed luck. All of my in-line air tools have worked great being used with wire wheels and cut-off wheels. I also really like my HF air drill; it is the cheapest one they offer but I use it on stainless whenever I can. I keep them well oiled. My air-powered angle grinders, on the other hand, both stripped their gear boxes in the same week. I also have a 1/2" drive air impact wrench that suddenly lost most of it's torque one day and is now pretty useless. I like my HF sockets and impact sockets. One of my impact socket sets has a very rough finish because HF quality control is about non-existent. I have to watch for rust diligently. I found a 1/2" click-type torque wrench there for $14 once. I've only used it once so far. I bought sets of T-handle allen wrenches for dirt cheap and I think they're great. My HF screwdrivers are nice too. The only complaint I have about my HF digital calipers is that it doesn't display fractional. I got a large set of transfer punches there for really cheap and I've been happy with them. A lot of stuff I've bought there hasn't worked as well as I had hoped or not at all. My HF bolt extractor kit hasn't ever turned a drat thing. My air-saw is only useful when it is the only tool that will fit. My HF punches and chisels are so soft that I have to re-grind the faces every time I use them.
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Dec 30, 2008 17:33
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Kynetx posted:
Yup. It charged for rougly an hour too long and the gauge went way past 100% Kynetx posted:Also, it's my understanding that the internal resistance of a battery increases as the stored energy increases, so you can't really 'over-charge' a battery. Some people refer to boiling a battery as over-charging. Is this what happened to you? All I really know is, the resistors on my voltage reguator were glowing red when I ran my car (dissipating excess energy) and there was a burning smell when this happened. It ceased when I drained the battery and got a normal charge.
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Dec 30, 2008 21:24
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I am going to cross post this as well into DIY: Metal working thread. I was given some Sears gift cars, and I have been wanting to replace the welder that was stolen out of my parents garage a while back. It was an old school Forney arc. I never had it turned up, because most of the work I did was pretty light duty. I don't have 220 service where I live and to be honest, where ever I end up which will be a couple of years from now, I may end have to wire for 220 anyways. I still have a welding itch that needs satisfied every now and again, so I was giving thought to buzz box to cure it until I can get a permanent space. Here is one I am interested in http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00988288000P?vName=Tools&cName=Welding&sName=Welders I won't really be doing anything to push it to its limits. And later on, once I am settled I would like to get a 220 MIG. But I figured this would cure the itch for now. Any thoughts?
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Dec 31, 2008 05:17
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Stick welding sucks rear end, if youre going to be doing automotive stuff get a MIG and an argon bottle. Also if you look in coupons at the cheap tool tracking thread you'll see how to save a couple % with live search.
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Dec 31, 2008 06:58
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RealKyleH posted:Stick welding sucks rear end, if youre going to be doing automotive stuff get a MIG and an argon bottle. Also if you look in coupons at the cheap tool tracking thread you'll see how to save a couple % with live search.
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Dec 31, 2008 14:26
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Would a 110 mig be enough? It says up to 3/16 cold steel on one of the mig welders .... I guess that would be frame territory on that size. I have used alot of stick welding though, guess its time to make the switch to MIG and get with the times. I've seen 130A 110V MIGs advertising a max material thickness of 1/4"
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Dec 31, 2008 19:04
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I now am high on the idea of buying a pegboard for my garage. HF has them for $100! Northerntool for $70 with lovely reviews. Anywhere else? Samsclub popped up on Google but want to know if anyone has some experience here first.
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Dec 31, 2008 20:15
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Hit an Apex posted:I now am high on the idea of buying a pegboard for my garage. HF has them for $100! Northerntool for $70 with lovely reviews. Anywhere else? Samsclub popped up on Google but want to know if anyone has some experience here first. Pegboard is pegboard is pegboard. It's just a piece of MDF with holes in it; buy whatever is cheapest.
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Dec 31, 2008 20:26
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frozenphil posted:Pegboard is pegboard is pegboard. It's just a piece of MDF with holes in it; buy whatever is cheapest. Agreed. Used, cheap, whatever. I really like the cheap HF hanging kit. I bought two and have a bit left over.
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Dec 31, 2008 20:49
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