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BusinessWallet posted:So total I'm looking at probably more than 3000 dollars in repairs. Rad. Should I just sell my car and get something else? That's literally half the value of the car in nothing that will actually make it worth more money, or faster or anything else. But after its all done you'll have a car that'll last you another 100k miles.
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Jan 8, 2009 02:49
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I suppose. It's just depressing that I could turbo my car, get a hard top and maybe even new wheels for that money. I suppose I could probably just sell it for $5000, get a personal loan for $3000 and just buy something else. Focus SVT maybe?
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Jan 8, 2009 02:53
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BusinessWallet posted:So total I'm looking at probably more than 3000 dollars in repairs. Rad. Should I just sell my car and get something else? That's literally half the value of the car in nothing that will actually make it worth more money, or faster or anything else. I also have a '99 with a bit of a dent from what looks like the car getting hit when it was parked (prior to my owning it). It also had the same issues with the soft top, and makes all kinds of noises, most of which I'm pretty sure are just normal rattles, and the rest are just the tires needing balancing or whatever. I got a used silver hardtop for $600. I live with the patches on the softtop, since they work just fine, and I figure I'll pay $200 for the timing belt parts come summer (I have 48k on it now). I might go to a junkyard for a fender; pick and pulls are usually pretty cheap, and I figure that'll be like $100 if I put some work into it. Your car is in essentially similar shape. I wouldn't give up on it now; just look into cheaper fixes and doing work yourself. EDIT: Cheap solicitation: Anyone got a front left fender for a '99 NB? 
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Jan 8, 2009 03:09
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I've been paying 279 dollars roughly a month for the car loan, and like 150 dollars a month for car insurance so having my car look raggedy like that is really kind of depressing. I mean having a fender painted it won't really match so well right? Just like all of this stuff is kind of annoying and I wish cars weren't so goddamn expensive to fix  I'm thinking about getting an older MR2 Turbo but I feel like it would fall apart more than this car is.
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Jan 8, 2009 03:19
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FluffGrenade posted:I got a used silver hardtop for $600. I live with the patches on the softtop, since they work just fine, and I figure I'll pay $200 for the timing belt parts come summer (I have 48k on it now).
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Jan 8, 2009 03:42
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destructo posted:Get the eBay timing belt kit for $80, it has everything you need (seals, quality water pump, etc). link? Is there a certain seller that has a certain branded kit?
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Jan 8, 2009 04:11
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kimbo305 posted:link? Is there a certain seller that has a certain branded kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car...#ht_2073wt_1100 You'll find a bunch if you just search ebay for miata timing belt kit, just make sure to get one with a valve cover gasket.
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Jan 8, 2009 04:28
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BusinessWallet posted:I've been paying 279 dollars roughly a month for the car loan, and like 150 dollars a month for car insurance so having my car look raggedy like that is really kind of depressing. I mean having a fender painted it won't really match so well right? Just like all of this stuff is kind of annoying and I wish cars weren't so goddamn expensive to fix Just do a little at a time man, if you like the car it wont be so bad. Plus, an MR2 Turbo could easily turn into a bigger maintenance nightmare and I would imagine an insurance hike too.
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Jan 8, 2009 04:57
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I need some Miata parts. I need a 1.6L Miata TPS, CAS, coilpack, idle motor and ignitor. I NEED the pigtails for them, no option. I need it for the GTX Megasquirt project. I have paypal. I might ask here before I got onto MiataTurbo.Net and Miata.Net asking jerks for crap when I like you jerks more. If you are in socal I will take you on 'tuning' runs on some local dirt roads if you want.
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Jan 8, 2009 07:26
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I may get a '90 miata soon and it has no LSD so I was wondering how I would go about acquiring a torsen LSD...
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Jan 8, 2009 07:41
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EvilCrayon posted:Anybody ever try the Autokonexion fastback top? It looks pretty sweet. It completely negates my favorite thing about the hardtop: its improved rear visibility.
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Jan 8, 2009 08:17
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EvilCrayon posted:I may get a '90 miata soon and it has no LSD so I was wondering how I would go about acquiring a torsen LSD... Buy one. I think the going price is about 600 dollars just for the pumpkin.
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Jan 8, 2009 08:53
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charliemonster42 posted:And the heat unbearable... No. charliemonster42 posted:Those heatshields are there for a reason, a lot of them, especially in the engine bay, protect wires and hoses from melting. You should actually probably leave the engine bay one in place, the one that covers the header. The other ones are 100% bullshit, totally useless, added weight, and all they do is make unrealistic amounts of noise at random RPMs. charliemonster42 posted:If you're going to do that, you'd probably be better off taking them all off, cleaning them, removing any rust/dirt/crap, and then reinstalling them with loctite on all of the fittings. Fittings? Do you even own a Miata? The shields are welded onto the exhaust. The welds rattle loose and break, and the shields rattle and make tons of noise. There are no "fittings".
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Jan 8, 2009 09:07
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Phone posted:Buy one. I think the going price is about 600 dollars just for the pumpkin. $1k for the full swap, which includes halfshafts and a driveshaft.
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Jan 8, 2009 09:09
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FireTora posted:That site is down too The site isn't down, they are just xenophobic pricks. I used a japanese proxy server and connected just fine.
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Jan 8, 2009 20:14
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Savington posted:Fittings? Do you even own a Miata? The shields are welded onto the exhaust. The welds rattle loose and break, and the shields rattle and make tons of noise. There are no "fittings". I do, and I've never actually spent time looking at the exhaust in that level of detail. All the other cars I've worked on had bolt on shields. The mount points for them rust and crap falls out, so they buzz and rattle as well.
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Jan 8, 2009 21:27
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Any suggestions for transmission fluid and differential fluid for the NC? Miata.net is lacking NC information, unfortunately.
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Jan 8, 2009 23:17
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charliemonster42 posted:I do, and I've never actually spent time looking at the exhaust in that level of detail. All the other cars I've worked on had bolt on shields. The mount points for them rust and crap falls out, so they buzz and rattle as well. Yeah, the heat shields on Miatas really don't do poo poo, except for keep you from setting the lawn on fire if you have a redneck parking lot in your front yard.
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Jan 9, 2009 03:59
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MrLogan posted:Any suggestions for transmission fluid and differential fluid for the NC? Miata.net is lacking NC information, unfortunately. http://forum.miata.net/vb/search.php?searchid=2709195
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Jan 9, 2009 04:59
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mobn posted:Yeah, the heat shields on Miatas really don't do poo poo, except for keep you from setting the lawn on fire if you have a redneck parking lot in your front yard. Well they also keep your rear end from getting really warm. I noticed a lot of heat soaking up through the floor when I had the shields off from the cat back. The welds like to break from time to time which is a pain in the rear end though.
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Jan 9, 2009 19:19
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having a problem today with my 99 i haven't had before Today I was driving home from work and I was pulling out of the lot and my car just would not go faster than 5mph in first gear. I blipped the throttle a bit and nothing happened, but if I stayed on it for a second or two it would kick in and the car would rev up. It sort of feels like turbo lag. It does this in every gear and it happens intermittently. I also noticed that when I put it in neutral it idles really dirty and sometimes drops down as far as 500 rpms or maybe even a bit lower, and if I blip the throttle a bit it revs, but occasionally this causes a belt to squeal until I hit about 5K rpms.
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Jan 9, 2009 20:48
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Does anyone make a clutch slave cylinder that isn't total trash, or did I just get a fluke? I had it replaced by the dealer once around 60-70k, and it went out again around October with just short of 95k on the car. Since the warranty is long gone, I replaced it with an Autozone slave for about $30 with a lifetime warranty. It died again yesterday, and I haven't hit 98k.
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Jan 9, 2009 21:33
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BusinessWallet posted:having a problem today with my 99 i haven't had before Auto, or 5speed? As a first guess, I'd say you've got a dirty fuel filter, bad or dirty AFM "MAYBE", or dirty air filter.
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Jan 9, 2009 22:51
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bladernr posted:Auto, or 5speed? What's the best way to clean the AFM? (flappy paddle version)
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Jan 9, 2009 22:55
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I'm pretty sure my left rear brake caliper seized today, is there a way to fix this, or do I need to go buy some new ones?
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Jan 9, 2009 23:19
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bladernr posted:Auto, or 5speed? Yeah, it's a 5 speed. I read elsewhere that it was most likely the fuel filter. I popped open the airbox and the air filter is pretty clean looking, it's perfectly orange. I don't feel like doing the repair myself if it is the fuel filter because I've got no access to a space big enough to do it as I live in the city. How much would one typically spend on something like this?
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Jan 9, 2009 23:23
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compton rear end terry posted:I'm pretty sure my left rear brake caliper seized today, is there a way to fix this, or do I need to go buy some new ones?
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Jan 9, 2009 23:31
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destructo posted:Assuming this is the same as what happened to me with my ebrake, I'd try pumping your brakes a whole bunch, that got mine to free up. Did one or both of your brakes mess up? Just my left rear was smoking when i got home.
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Jan 10, 2009 00:00
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I bent my left inner tie rod and am trying to find a place to order it online. Luckily there is no other suspension damage just the rod is slightly bent. I figure I might as well replace the both sides, both inner and outer rods while I'm down there. I saw this deal online, does anyone have experience dealing with them? Also, any pointers about replacing the rods would be appreciated. http://www.macautoparts.net/Chassis-Parts-5900/2112352-90-91-94-97-Miata-MX5/ProductInfo.aspx My car is a 1990 with power steering
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Jan 10, 2009 03:40
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SeņorMisterioso posted:I bent my left inner tie rod and am trying to find a place to order it online. Luckily there is no other suspension damage just the rod is slightly bent. I figure I might as well replace the both sides, both inner and outer rods while I'm down there. I saw this deal online, does anyone have experience dealing with them? Also, any pointers about replacing the rods would be appreciated. I don't know about them but the inner tie rods from getcoolparts.com have the wrong threading for the steering rack and don't work, so don't get those ones.
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Jan 10, 2009 04:02
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I just noticed that there is a plastic collar at the base of the steering column in the footwell--mine is cracked into two pieces. Should I remove/replace/repair? (er, what the hell is it even for?)
ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Jan 10, 2009 |
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Jan 10, 2009 04:33
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ChiliMac posted:I just noticed that there is a plastic collar at the base of the steering column in the footwell--mine is cracked into two pieces. Should I remove/replace/repair? (er, what the hell is it even for?) It splits in 2, you should be able to just clip it back together its just a little odd. Its there to hid ugly stuff.
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Jan 10, 2009 04:54
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FireTora posted:It splits in 2, you should be able to just clip it back together its just a little odd. Its there to hid ugly stuff. Oh, I feel like an idiot now. It certainly looked cracked.
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Jan 10, 2009 05:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does anyone make a clutch slave cylinder that isn't total trash, or did I just get a fluke? I had it replaced by the dealer once around 60-70k, and it went out again around October with just short of 95k on the car. Since the warranty is long gone, I replaced it with an Autozone slave for about $30 with a lifetime warranty. You really don't need to buy the entire slave cylinder. Just get the rebuild kit with the rubber boot and spring assembly. Clean the old slave cylinder body and lube the inside with fresh brake fluid. Make sure to be very careful with the hard line screw and make sure the piston engages completely with no leaks around the rubber boot. Check your master cylinder at the same time as well (and there's the rebuild for that too to save some cash).
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Jan 10, 2009 06:12
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FireTora posted:It splits in 2, you should be able to just clip it back together its just a little odd. Its there to hid ugly stuff. I'm actually missing this piece. The one that hides the joint beyond the pedals. Should I be worried?
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Jan 10, 2009 07:02
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BusinessWallet posted:Yeah, it's a 5 speed. I read elsewhere that it was most likely the fuel filter. I popped open the airbox and the air filter is pretty clean looking, it's perfectly orange. 23 dollars for a Mazda fuel filter, and you'll need a jack and 2 stands, a flathead and a Phillips screwdriver. And some rags, and golf tees maybe. I managed to do mine without tees and without spilling much, but I still got some fuel on my shirt. You won't need much more space than your driveway, but you probably have an apartment. Borrow a family member's driveway maybe. edit: Changed link to the NB part, they look the same on the site. GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jan 10, 2009 |
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Jan 10, 2009 20:25
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Hella E-Code, 80/100 Premium Xenon    Aimed a little low, 2nd image is on an incline. I can't express how huge of an upgrade over stock this is 
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Jan 11, 2009 04:13
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So, I'll have a job this eventually appearing summer and I've been planning on selling my Beetle to buy a MR2, 944 or a NA Miata. It's been a dream for a while to put an LS1 in a 944, but I keep seeing occasional videos of Miata LS1 swaps, but never hear much about how much of a pain it is. Can anyone suggest me some reading material for this? Build threads, websites for the (I assume) kits people use, how the gently caress much it'd cost, what the hell transmission people use, problems with the swap, best year Miata to receive said LS1 (NA's are pretty, NB's are yucky). I've got the space, I possibly have the funding, I've got the time, I've definitely got the tools, and good lord would it be glorious. Or, is it silly and would a $3000 turbo kit be a better idea?
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Jan 11, 2009 05:10
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destructo posted:Hella E-Code, 80/100 Premium Xenon Is this the set-up you're using? Know where to get it cheaper? http://www.amazon.com/Hella-Halogen-Replacement-Headlight-Performance/dp/B000FNCJTM/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3 And whats the chatter on 80/100w bulbs? Is the stock wiring sufficient? goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jan 11, 2009 |
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Jan 11, 2009 15:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does anyone make a clutch slave cylinder that isn't total trash, or did I just get a fluke? I had it replaced by the dealer once around 60-70k, and it went out again around October with just short of 95k on the car. Since the warranty is long gone, I replaced it with an Autozone slave for about $30 with a lifetime warranty. Just answered my own question...did some more diagnosis and it turns out this time, it is in fact not the slave - it's the master. Nice little trail of brake fluid down the firewall on the inside of the car.
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Jan 11, 2009 20:24
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