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EvilCrayon posted:I'm looking for tools to start working on cars again. I used to use my friend's tool's or my dad's tools when I lived at home but now that my friend is in another state, I need some tools! I'm on a pretty low budget but I still want tools that last. I've been looking at getting a couple small pieces from snap-on or matco. Not too much but the bare minimum for working on cars. Craftsman have gone downhill in the past few years, but they are still fine for most jobs. I'd buy a big Cman set, and supplement that with some quality pieces as you can afford them. HF dead-blow hammers are fine, but their screwdrivers are only marginal. Basically, if you use something every time you work on a car (like a ratchet or a few specific sockets/wrenches), you probably ought to replace those with high-quality US-made pieces. Oh, and buy some spare ratchets and a bunch of extensions. A good addition is at least one universal joint in 1/4" and 3/8". They come in very handy.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 15:20 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 18:02 |
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I should probably add tat I think craftsman is a bit overpriced for what you get and wouldn't consider buying a new set. NT has decent, super cheap swivel sockets. It is likely you will need them at some point.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 17:14 |
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For cheap hand tools, you can hardly miss with Harbor Freight. Their wrenches and socket sets are nearly as good as Craftsman or Cobalt and they have the same warranty.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 17:34 |
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Kynetx posted:For cheap hand tools, you can hardly miss with Harbor Freight. Their wrenches and socket sets are nearly as good as Craftsman or Cobalt and they have the same warranty. You're wrong. It's easy to miss at harbor freight. I bought a small set of metric double ended wrenches... not a single one was machined to size, nor were they strong enough to work on fasteners they did fit. This is the same for almost every screwdriver they have. Most of the pliers they have are also soft, and poorly made. That said, the Pittsburgh brand hand tools they have. THOSE are good quality. You need to be very careful about what you chose there, as to weather you got plated cheddar cheese, or you got actual workable metal. And I really like harbor freight....
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 18:15 |
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Kynetx posted:For cheap hand tools, you can hardly miss with Harbor Freight. Their wrenches and socket sets are nearly as good as Craftsman or Cobalt and they have the same warranty. I've bought a cheap socket set from there just to keep in my car. The socket wall was so thin I actually broke it when trying to loosen a really tight bolt.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 18:18 |
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Kynetx posted:For cheap hand tools, you can hardly miss with Harbor Freight. Their wrenches and socket sets are nearly as good as Craftsman or Cobalt and they have the same warranty. As others have said... Their wrenches are soft and badly toleranced, and their sockets are fragile. Ratchets are OK, nothing I'd trust my knuckles to. Sears stuff is regularly on sale, and if you are a craftsman club member, you can get the 254-piece kit in the molded box for around $180. Well worth it, as it has 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in metric and standard, and a decent set of M/S wrenches too. Thats where I started.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 19:15 |
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^^Just got the 260 pc with fitted trays and a box for Xmas. Found it for 169.99 a few weeks before Christmas. Now, I usually only get out my sockets for big jobs or jobs I bring back to my workbench, as hex keys, 4,6,8,10 inch adjustables, screwdrivers and channel locks/pliers are the main tools I carry in my toolbag. But I've been wanting a "starter-set" and just wanted to say that this set makes a great backbone to any mechanic's tool set.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 19:21 |
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HF ratchets are awful, I have their thumb ratchets and swivel heads as just-in-case-I-need-them type tools and they are not near loose enough to be useful. They will stop ratcheting before the bolts can be unscrewed with their fingers. Craftsmans are way way better about this and I'd say that that quality is as or more important than durability.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 20:03 |
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RealKyleH posted:HF ratchets are awful, I have their thumb ratchets and swivel heads as just-in-case-I-need-them type tools and they are not near loose enough to be useful. They will stop ratcheting before the bolts can be unscrewed with their fingers. Craftsmans are way way better about this and I'd say that that quality is as or more important than durability. Have you lubed them up? I've got a set of the stubby flex's, and they used to be too tight. I soaked them in ATF, and they dropped a bunch of metal grinds into the can I had them soaking in. Now they are much better. I've got one of the Pittsburgh 3/8" ratchets, and its just fine, the action is almost as smooth as my Cman, but nowhere as nice as my S-K. Another source of decent ratchets is AutoZone. The Duralast ratchets are pretty nice, and their warranty is great. \/\/My fiance just bought one of those ultrasonics for cleaning oboe reeds... somehow I don't think ATF is going in that thing. A good soak in ATF helped all my ratchets loosen up, and the guys on GJ think its required. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jan 15, 2009 |
# ? Jan 15, 2009 20:18 |
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sharkytm posted:Have you lubed them up? I've got a set of the stubby flex's, and they used to be too tight. I soaked them in ATF, and they dropped a bunch of metal grinds into the can I had them soaking in. Now they are much better. I have one of HF's supersonic cleaners Ill give it a couple cycles in ATF and see how they do. Thanks.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 20:30 |
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Huh. I'm surprised everyone has had such bad luck. I've never had a socket split on me. The only time I've had trouble with a ratchet was when I had to loosen a lug bolt with one by standing on it and jumping. We're talking 300+ lbs of torque on a 10" 3/8 ratchet. Now power tools? Don't get me started on those.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 21:35 |
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I just got myself one of these: Mityvac vacuum pump / bleeder kit. Holy poo poo, might be the best $30 I've ever spent at Harbor Freight. I had to replace the clutch master cylinder on the Miata and this made it so stupid easy...put a box-end wrench on the bleeder, hook the Mityvac up, pull a vacuum and loosen the bleeder. Repeat a few times until the fluid coming out is clean, tighten it all back up, and you're done. I know mine will be getting some more use in the near future with a brake job on my brother's '79 280ZX and probably a once-over on the brakes on my truck. I wish I had this a few years back when I did the master cylinder on the Volvo. With Craftsman, are they still just exchanging them in-store or are they repairing them? I've got a kick-rear end swivel-head Craftsman 3/8" ratchet with a long handle that was originally my late father-in-law's, but the ratchet mechanism has been jammed since long before I got a hold of it. Since it has some sentimental value, I'd rather repair the tool instead of swapping it out with a newer random part.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 21:46 |
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The sears here gives you a repaired tool out of a bin. You turn in a 20 year old ratchet and they give you a butter steel replacement. Fix it yourself, ratchets aren't that complex. Buy a similar HF ratchet to take apart first if you're worried about breaking something.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 21:52 |
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Kynetx posted:Huh. I'm surprised everyone has had such bad luck. I've never had a socket split on me. The only time I've had trouble with a ratchet was when I had to loosen a lug bolt with one by standing on it and jumping. We're talking 300+ lbs of torque on a 10" 3/8 ratchet. Same thing here, only time I have cracked a socket is doing that. I also got a bolt basically pressure welded to a cheapo socket one time. EDIT: Just filled my little ultrasonic with ATF and put all my cheap ratchets in it. The ATF is too think for the vibrator to get any cleaning action going but I'll let them soak a while. How long should I leave them in there for? AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jan 15, 2009 |
# ? Jan 15, 2009 22:01 |
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RealKyleH posted:Same thing here, only time I have cracked a socket is doing that. I also got a bolt basically pressure welded to a cheapo socket one time. I left mine in there for a day or so, then ran them about 20 rotations in each direction, then soaked them for another day or so.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 22:48 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I just got myself one of these: Odd, I have that exact same unit and it has never worked well for me AT ALL. I always end up getting frustrated and bleeding brakes / clutches manually. The rubber fittings don't seem to be very pliable on mine, and nothing ever seals right. I've actually had better luck with a simple 'one man' bleeder, just a sealed cup with a tube.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 22:57 |
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ACEofsnett posted:Odd, I have that exact same unit and it has never worked well for me AT ALL. I always end up getting frustrated and bleeding brakes / clutches manually. The rubber fittings don't seem to be very pliable on mine, and nothing ever seals right. I've actually had better luck with a simple 'one man' bleeder, just a sealed cup with a tube.
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# ? Jan 15, 2009 23:18 |
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EnergizerFellow posted:Get some new lines. They must have hardened over time. You can also swap the lines for the much-more-flexible tygon, or lines silicone.
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# ? Jan 16, 2009 00:45 |
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Just something to think about for those planning to buy a tool kit package: Check the list for the kit, and don't waste your money if they pad it with 12pt sockets. 12pt seems to be the standard for cheap socket sets, though they are inferior to 6pt sockets. There are *very* few 12pt bolts, and if you come across one, just buy that one socket. 12pt box wrenches may have more angle options, but that isn't true for a socket (since you can ratchet to any angle you want). PS: Don't bother with 12pt box wrenches either. I'm guessing 12pt sockets and wrenches are more common because the tolerances don't have to be as tight, so manufacturing costs go down. Manufacturer may be down, but frustration and rounded bolt costs go WAY UP.
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# ? Jan 16, 2009 03:00 |
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Can you guys recommend me a decent, yet cheap impact gun. Cordless preferably but I'll do corded also. For changing tires in the garage, etc.
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# ? Jan 16, 2009 05:35 |
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Actually, I've been able to find some sweet stuff on craigslist when it comes to impact guns. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/988119206.html
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# ? Jan 16, 2009 17:37 |
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CatBus posted:Just something to think about for those planning to buy a tool kit package: They're theoretically useful for a breaker bar in a tight spot... ...but you do not want to be using 12-point sockets on a breaker-bar candidate bolt.
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# ? Jan 16, 2009 19:03 |
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12 point sockets are fast, I use them on anything 14mm or below. Just pay attention and switch to a 6 point if you're applying too much force. 6 point sockets are aligned with the mounting hole so each 1/4 turn aligns the hex in a unique position. If you can't get your breaker bar on a bolt, flip it over or rotate it 1/4 turn. 12 point sockets don't always follow this convention.
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# ? Jan 16, 2009 19:29 |
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sharkytm posted:Have you lubed them up? First rule of Harbor Freight: you didn't buy something that's ready to use. As soon as you're done fixing it, it will work reasonably well. I love that place.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 00:43 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Mityvac vacuum pump / bleeder kit. Holy poo poo, might be the best $30 I've ever spent at Harbor Freight. Spend $65 or so on a Motive pressure bleeder. I have both, and they both have their place. Bleeding clutches and brakes with the motive is SO drat easy, and you get really good pedal feel the first time. I've even done a new master cylinder with no bench bleeding on the first shot and had it turn out great. Clutches might be easier to bleed on the Miata, but they are a royal PITA on the 944. The vac method is better than pumping it, but just barely. With the pressure bleeder, it's no problem at all.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 00:46 |
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oxbrain posted:The sears here gives you a repaired tool out of a bin. You turn in a 20 year old ratchet and they give you a butter steel replacement. That's what I got offered on a 3 month old ratchet that was bad. I said "No way. I'd like to see a manager." He came over, I told him that was totally not acceptable (nicely but forcefully) and he said that he understood - let's go get a new one for you. Stand up for yourself. It works.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 00:48 |
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meltie posted:...but you do not want to be using 12-point sockets on a breaker-bar candidate bolt.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 00:56 |
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Craftsman shop vacs? I need a new smallish shop vac, and the 4 gallon one looks like it's pretty decent. Thoughts or alternative recommendations?
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 01:17 |
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944 posted:That's what I got offered on a 3 month old ratchet that was bad. When I was buying my suicide sticks, someone came in to return a ratchet and I saw the line of ratchets behind the counter with the sears employee. To the employee's credit, he asked whether the customer would accept a rebuilt one or preferred a new one off the shelf.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 01:34 |
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944 posted:Stand up for yourself. It works. When I bring my 25 year old craftsman ratchet in I want it repaired and returned to me. Their quality has been on a steady decline since the mid '90s and their current stock is barely on par with harbor freight.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 01:52 |
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This is a tools stupid question but I figured it might be better answered here than in the stupid qs thread. I have a grease gun and I have been able to pop the coupler onto a zerk. From there, I was able to get a couple squeezes before grease started oozing out from either the zerk or the couple itself. How do I know if I got grease in there? At what point do I know I'm done? FWIW, I wipe off all the excess grease.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 02:09 |
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multiprotocol posted:Craftsman shop vacs? I need a new smallish shop vac, and the 4 gallon one looks like it's pretty decent. Thoughts or alternative recommendations? Their electric poo poo is pretty solid. I'd trust a shop vac. We've got two. One is from the early 80's and has been beaten to hell and back and still runs perfectly, and the other is about 2 years old, and while it has a lot of irritating poo poo on it (hose carrier, pipe and attachment carrier, pop-off leaf blower) that the older one doesn't have or need, it still does its job well. I'm starting to avoid craftsman for ratchets and such, and I'm replacing them with better things. Their wrenches are still solid as hell, as are their screwdrivers.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 03:44 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Their electric poo poo is pretty solid. I'd trust a shop vac. We've got two. One is from the early 80's and has been beaten to hell and back and still runs perfectly, and the other is about 2 years old, and while it has a lot of irritating poo poo on it (hose carrier, pipe and attachment carrier, pop-off leaf blower) that the older one doesn't have or need, it still does its job well. I've got a Cman shopvac with the removable leafblower. Its awesome, and has held up very well. And Cman wrenches are heavy, thick, uncomfortable, and not particularly well toleranced. They are fine for starting out, but its a good idea to replace them with something better when you get a chance. That said, all I have are Craftsman wrenches.
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# ? Jan 17, 2009 15:54 |
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http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17742722&PMT4NO=0 ER32 Collet chuck: $123 http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17742678&PMT4NO=0 ER32 Collet Set: $357 Price on ebay for both from an American seller but made in china? $122 shipped. Got them both today and will be ordering some more collet chucks. I freaking love buying tooling on ebay. gently caress ever using a drill chuck or hand making a tap holder to power tap poo poo. Collets rule and since I am not even milling with them (although I have heard they're good enough that I could provided I am not running RPMs that require balancing) I really don't have poo poo to worry about. Also should be here next week: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200094179608 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200296096557 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200296512600 Total: $50.73 Price at MSC: $27 + $71 (For smaller but comparable boring bar) + $345 (69 * 5pcs) Total: $443 I am seriously about to go broke from all the good deals I've been getting. Not even joking here though you need so much poo poo you dont immediately think about just for simple lathe jobs. Just trying to tap and thread a few hundred steel aprts is going to cost me big $$. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jan 17, 2009 |
# ? Jan 17, 2009 22:04 |
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I feel so lucky to be able to shop at Canadian Tire for tools, sales all the time, and the Mastercraft Maximum stuff is awesome quality. I think it's been brought up before, but it's true. If you guys end up in Canada at some point, I'd recommend checking it out.
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# ? Jan 18, 2009 02:04 |
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oxbrain posted:When I bring my 25 year old craftsman ratchet in I want it repaired and returned to me. Their quality has been on a steady decline since the mid '90s and their current stock is barely on par with harbor freight. Should have mentioned that - on another run in there, I had one of my grandfather's ratchets. They gave me a rebuild kit for it for free. I'd rather do that myself than let the 16 year old mouth breather behind the counter do it.
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# ? Jan 18, 2009 18:22 |
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kimbo305 posted:This is a tools stupid question but I figured it might be better answered here than in the stupid qs thread. Doesn't sound like the grease it getting where it's supposed to go. You know you have enough in there when the oozes out of the part that is supposed to be getting lubricated, not from around the zerk. You might have some caked up crap in there that's not letting the grease get through. Try putting as much pressure on it as possible so the grease won't come out between the coupler and the zerk, and it should eventually break free - it will get easier to grease, and then you'll see all the old crap squeezing out from where its supposed to. Once you see some new grease coming out, you're done.
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# ? Jan 18, 2009 18:25 |
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944 posted:Try putting as much pressure on it as possible so the grease won't come out between the coupler and the zerk Is holding the coupler down hard on the zerk ok? I mean I could do that but I'm not sure it would seal that side well enough to force grease through.
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# ? Jan 18, 2009 18:55 |
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kimbo305 posted:Is holding the coupler down hard on the zerk ok? I mean I could do that but I'm not sure it would seal that side well enough to force grease through. It's "OK" as in it won't break anything unless you have something broken/ready to break already. But it also won't make a great seal no matter what. If that doesn't work, you can always try taking the zerk out and replacing it (they are just threaded in, and easily/cheaply found at a decent auto parts store). Hopefully the crud is in the zerk. If not, you need to deal with the problem differently based on exactly what this zerk is going to.
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# ? Jan 18, 2009 20:02 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 18:02 |
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What you need is an adaptor of some kind that screws onto the grease gun at one end, and onto the threaded hole where the nipple goes at the other, that way the grease can't go anywhere except into the assembly.
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# ? Jan 18, 2009 20:05 |