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Who needs a Geiger counter?!? http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/RCA-WF-14A-Geiger-Counter-4389855
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Jan 19, 2009 03:11
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InitialDave posted:What you need is an adaptor of some kind that screws onto the grease gun at one end, and onto the threaded hole where the nipple goes at the other, that way the grease can't go anywhere except into the assembly. Good point. I'm sure something can be pieced together, if somebody doesn't already make something like that. I've never NOT been able to make a grease fitting work by hitting the whole area with Kroil and possibly replacing the Zerk. Almost every time just jamming the gun on as hard as possible and ramming some grease in has taken care of it.
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Jan 19, 2009 03:12
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truckramrod posted:Who needs a Geiger counter?!? the range on that is pretty low. you can get 100cpm or so simply from background radiation. 
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Jan 19, 2009 05:03
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truckramrod posted:Who needs a Geiger counter?!? Who doesn't?! Awesome. Apparently working ones for for $25-30 shipped on ebay for the nuclear disaster type. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Jan 19, 2009 |
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Jan 19, 2009 14:32
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edit: never mind
Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jan 19, 2009 |
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Jan 19, 2009 17:06
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truckramrod posted:Who needs a Geiger counter?!? It doesn't look like it comes with a test source. Not much good without that to calibrate it.
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Jan 19, 2009 21:09
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helno posted:It doesn't look like it comes with a test source. Not much good without that to calibrate it. 
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Jan 19, 2009 22:42
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Dancing Hog posted:I feel so lucky to be able to shop at Canadian Tire for tools, sales all the time, and the Mastercraft Maximum stuff is awesome quality. For sure! Pretty much everything is around 40% off at some time during the year. Just stay away from the 'jobmate' brand. Also, the mastercraft power tools aren't so great. Oh and you can also borrow tools there too which is nice.
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Jan 20, 2009 01:33
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I just saw this post on Toolmonger... http://toolmonger.com/2009/01/19/take-a-ride-on-the-bone/#more-18718
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Jan 20, 2009 04:31
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I know it's been discussed in the tools thread before, but I just got a harbor freight aluminum racing jack and so far it's been great. (this is a link to the blue one, my local HF only had it in blue, which costs $20 more online but only $10 more in the store). http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40105 Coming from a $30 autozone jack I was surprised at how much bigger the HF one is, and it got the car up on jack stands much quicker. It also lifts up to almost 18", whereas I think my old jack is only good for 13". My car is pretty low but the jack was able to fit under without any problems (although I don't think I can get it under the front crossmember without driving up on some wood first, I just did each side individually). If anyone is thinking of getting a super cheap kragen/autozone jack, I'd recommend just purchasing a HF one instead.
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Jan 21, 2009 06:43
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devnull420 posted:I know it's been discussed in the tools thread before, but I just got a harbor freight aluminum racing jack and so far it's been great. (this is a link to the blue one, my local HF only had it in blue, which costs $20 more online but only $10 more in the store). Ive got the exact same jack (The aluminum colored one, they did not have the blue one). Its winter here though, so I have not had a chance to use it yet. But you know what? I took a look at Sears, and that jack is 99% identical to the $300 Craftsman one. The 1% difference is the paintjob. Same thing with the cheap harbor freight jackstands. Same thing as Craftsman, but with a different paint job, and about half the price. This is what I love about Harbor Freight
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Jan 21, 2009 16:24
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I have the blue one and am very happy with mine.
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Jan 21, 2009 17:06
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Dyscrasia posted:Ive got the exact same jack (The aluminum colored one, they did not have the blue one). Its winter here though, so I have not had a chance to use it yet. And the other difference: the HF one won't blow up like every single Craftsman AL jack. Read the reviews on Sears.com. gently caress those things. As for jackstands, don't buy chinese crap. Buy something thats way overbuilt.
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Jan 21, 2009 21:42
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Recommend me an air compressor for under $200 for use with air-hammer, ratchet and impact. maybe a jack in the future (do jacks need a lot of air?) I borrowed an 8 gal 115 psi central pneumatic compressor from a friend, brand new from harbor freight for $129. It did what I needed it to for the air hammer, had to stop for tank recharge a minute a couple times but I didn't mind. I've been told I need higher PSI at least and preferably a bigger tank to to run an impact. I just want it good enough to run an impact to install one wheel, 6 140 lb-ft lug nuts. Thats about the most workout I'd ever "need" an impact for. there are some things you absolutely have to have an impact for like the nuts on top of struts but I'm sure even the $129 hf one could could do that. I've been looking on craigslist thinking I might be able to find a whole lot bigger one used for the same $$ but not seeing much. I 99% want 120v unless there's a 220 that is just some insane deal and does all kinds of cool poo poo. Are oil-less really that bad? loud? Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jan 22, 2009 |
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Jan 22, 2009 22:44
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Wagonburner posted:Recommend me an air compressor for under $200 for use with air-hammer, ratchet and impact. maybe a jack in the future (do jacks need a lot of air?) You don't need higher PSI. You need more CFM, or a bigger tank. A tank will let a smaller compressor "act" like a bigger compressor for short periods. I'd look for a 15 gallon or 33 gallon compressor. The compressor itself will put out some pitiful amount of air, but if all you need is to put on and take off wheels, you can just turn on the compressor, let it fill up as you drive the car in and jack it up, then use the air in the tank to remove the wheels. It'll probably need to refill after that, but you've got the time as you swap the wheels or whatever. I've got the Craftsman 33G vertical thats always on sale. Its 110v, oil-less and loud as gently caress (all oil-less ones are, but they are a lot cheaper than an oiled unit), but gets the job done. It only sucks when I have to sandblast or use an air grinder. Then its grind/blast, wait 3-4 minutes, grind/blast, wait, etc.
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Jan 22, 2009 22:50
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sharkytm posted:You don't need higher PSI. You need more CFM, or a bigger tank. A tank will let a smaller compressor "act" like a bigger compressor for short periods. So is CFM the actual CFM the compressor puts out? If it says 5cfm does that mean you can use 5cfm non-stop? If the tank is fully charged can a 5cfm put out a lot more than 5cfm until the tank gets depleted some?
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Jan 22, 2009 22:59
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Wagonburner posted:So is CFM the actual CFM the compressor puts out? If it says 5cfm does that mean you can use 5cfm non-stop? If the tank is fully charged can a 5cfm put out a lot more than 5cfm until the tank gets depleted some?
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Jan 22, 2009 23:03
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HF 20% off coupon again! http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...44&keycode=0000 AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jan 22, 2009 |
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Jan 22, 2009 23:37
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InitialDave posted:Not usually. Most of the time the advertised CFM is the output from the compressor assembly, the output from the actual connector to your tool is the Free Air Delivery, and will be slightly less. Correct, plus as the compressor heats up, the air it puts out expands, which isn't good for your tools (warm air=wet air), and de-rates it even more. Plus, lovely companies love to over-rate their compressors. My Craftsman is "rated" at 3.5hp, but its actually 1hp. They used the starting amperage draw to calculate HP, and got called on it. Lawsuit, etc, now its a true rating. Basically, buy as much compressor as you can afford.
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Jan 22, 2009 23:41
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I will be adding this to my assortment of machining related equipment very soon. 20% off of $250? gently caress yea.  It says it can cut up to 4.5" round which is pretty much the biggest I can handle in my machine. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jan 23, 2009 |
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Jan 23, 2009 00:46
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I need one of those really badly. But my Milwaukee abrasive cutoff saw is pretty good for now. First one I found with a really good, heavy cast iron base.
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Jan 23, 2009 01:21
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RealKyleH posted:It says it can cut up to 4.5" round which is pretty much the biggest I can handle in my machine. I own a metal cutting bandsaw, drill press, and grinder. Now I just need to add REAL machine tools.
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Jan 23, 2009 01:35
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I use the Jet version which is identical. They are awesome to the max.
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Jan 23, 2009 02:20
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The band saw? here I was worried it might be too small and crappy although I guess the blade would have a lot to do with that.
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Jan 23, 2009 02:21
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RealKyleH posted:HF 20% off coupon again! Goddamn, 2 days after I spend a couple hundred at HF - 20% off is a great deal.
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Jan 23, 2009 02:55
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devnull420 posted:Goddamn, 2 days after I spend a couple hundred at HF - 20% off is a great deal. I know how you feel, I am trying to figure out what all I'll need.
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Jan 23, 2009 03:59
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RealKyleH posted:The band saw? here I was worried it might be too small and crappy although I guess the blade would have a lot to do with that. I would look for one with an oil reservoir and the associated catching system that it would need. But that's just me.
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Jan 23, 2009 04:34
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Yea I am going to rig up a coolant system for it since it probably doesnt have one. gently caress using anything becides water soluble oil. I use cutting oil a lot cause I use a lot of HSS tooling on my lathe and at the end of the day theres just a very fine mist of it everywhere.
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Jan 23, 2009 04:39
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Most people I know with these bandsaws run them dry. I've had no trouble with mine, even running dry. A big, long, belt does a lot for keeping the blade cool.
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Jan 23, 2009 04:59
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A cheap pump, 5 gallon bucket, and a few feet of tubing is easy to do and having used both, I'd rig the coolant system up any day. It makes a difference in blade life and also keeps the piece you're cutting cool and carries chips away from the cutting surface.
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Jan 23, 2009 08:09
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Chauncey posted:A cheap pump, 5 gallon bucket, and a few feet of tubing is easy to do and having used both, I'd rig the coolant system up any day. It makes a difference in blade life and also keeps the piece you're cutting cool and carries chips away from the cutting surface. All of this x2 If I was cutting soft materials with this that'd be one thing but I'll be cutting mild and stainless mostly starting out.
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Jan 23, 2009 16:31
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Kynetx posted:I use the Jet version which is identical. They are awesome to the max. I hate to break it to you, but the Jet version isn't the same. Its very similar, but the guys on h-t did a thread a few years ago comparing them. The rollers and bearings in the Jet are way nicer, which explains its cleaner cuts. I'm headed down to HF this weekend, $210 in gift cards and a 20% off coupon! \/\/ A bottle of brake fluid upside down in the MC reservoir, and a piece of tubing that fits the bleeders stuck into an empty plastic bottle works for me. Just open the bleeder, and the brake fluid just obeys gravity and flows out. When the level drops low enough in the reservoir, it'll burp the fresh bottle, and refill. It depends on your MC size, but it always works for me. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jan 23, 2009 |
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Jan 23, 2009 18:56
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I saw the "Vacula" brake fluid changer, would I be able to hook up like a shop vac to a cup and suck brake fluid out that way and then just pour in new fluid until what comes out is clear, close and repeat? I guess I am asking what the fastest way to change brake fluid is without a $150 Vacula that I will sue twice. Is there a good, quick, harbor freight alternative? It is definitely past time for my Mark VIII.
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Jan 23, 2009 20:00
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I bought a mityvac at autozone for $40 and it's done a perfectly fine job so far.
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Jan 23, 2009 20:23
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Those dirt cheap bit-of-tube-with-a-one-way-valve assemblies do actually work.
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Jan 23, 2009 21:26
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sharkytm posted:I hate to break it to you, but the Jet version isn't the same. Its very similar, but the guys on h-t did a thread a few years ago comparing them. The rollers and bearings in the Jet are way nicer, which explains its cleaner cuts.
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Jan 23, 2009 22:00
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Bling bling Why is this so cheap?
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Jan 23, 2009 22:03
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Kynetx posted:Any reason a guy couldn't just mod it to match? you could, and some people have, usually when their sleeve bearings fail on the HF machines. The biggest problem is the rollers, if you had a good machine shop, you could machine your own. The better the roller (harder, less wobble) and the smoother the bearings, the straighter the bandsaw will hold the blade, and the straighter your cuts will be. The other gripe, iirc, was that the HF machine had problems holding blade tension. It would loosen up over the course of a few cuts.
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Jan 23, 2009 22:40
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RealKyleH posted:I saw the "Vacula" brake fluid changer, would I be able to hook up like a shop vac to a cup and suck brake fluid out that way and then just pour in new fluid until what comes out is clear, close and repeat? I guess I am asking what the fastest way to change brake fluid is without a $150 Vacula that I will sue twice. Is there a good, quick, harbor freight alternative? It is definitely past time for my Mark VIII. Get a MityVac at HF for $30. I picked one up to do the clutch master on my Miata and I'm never doing anything with hydraulics any other way ever again.
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Jan 23, 2009 23:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:Get a MityVac at HF for $30. I picked one up to do the clutch master on my Miata and I'm never doing anything with hydraulics any other way ever again. I saw that, isnt it just a hand pump unit?
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Jan 24, 2009 00:11
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