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Spend the $50 for the auto darkening welding helmet at HF. It works great, no complaints at all.
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Feb 4, 2009 06:52
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ease posted:Well I bought it. It actually worked great for what I needed (fixing a plow for my quad). DUDE! This is really a big mistake. I've met folks that have done that, and hours later they feel the effects (they usually wake up in the middle of the night screeming). I hear it feels like getting hit in the face with a sand bag. Gas welding goggles are great for gas welding, but you need like 11's for arc welding, and since you cant see anything with 11's, you dont want goggles for arc welding. I use an old lincoln like that, its pretty old and funky, but it welds poo poo right up. If you want to weld thinner material, you just need to get thinner rods and lower the current. If you want to weld cast iron, you will need special rods, and its a little harder to weld, but you can do it. I did some exhaust manifolds this year, and it was kinda cool. If you havnt already, you should invest in a good set of thick leather welders gloves (they cover your whole arm), and maybe some knee pads. Stick welding is a bit difficult to learn, but it does get the job done.
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Feb 4, 2009 17:46
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InitialDave posted:Maybe a Park Tools backpack case? That backpack, with minor changes was sold by JT as a paintball pack. It's some serious gear.
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Feb 4, 2009 19:52
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I just bought a 10 shade with a flip up lens. It has a clear lens under the flip up. I much prefer this style because you don't have to flip the whole helmet, but you can if you want to. I picked up some cheap Lincoln leather welding gloves for 10$, combined with my carhartt I should be pretty well covered up. I'm glad I welded outside last night. I can't believe anyone would ever weld indoors in their garage or something.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:27
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ease posted:I'm glad I welded outside last night. I can't believe anyone would ever weld indoors in their garage or something. You mean you can't believe anyone would stick weld indoors? For all types of gas shielded I don't see why you would weld out doors if you can avoid it.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:51
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hippynerd posted:DUDE! This is really a big mistake. I've met folks that have done that, and hours later they feel the effects (they usually wake up in the middle of the night screeming). Buy good gloves, and a good welders cap. Tillman makes great gloves. Find your LWS (local welding supply) company. Treat them well, and they'll return the favor.
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Feb 4, 2009 22:40
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Thanks for reminding me about Tillman gloves. I had a pair of those that lasted me for a year in the field at work, which is a really long time for light gloves. Best glove company ever. Hard to find around here.
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Feb 5, 2009 00:08
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ease posted:Well I bought it. It actually worked great for what I needed (fixing a plow for my quad). you shouldn't be arc welding in goggles at all, get a full shield or enjoy looking like some sort of burnt red panda. edit: i see you already have (i think). Stick welding can do almost anything mig can, just slower and with more cleaning involved, also you can do it outdoors as you've discovered, try mig or tig in a mild breeze and see what happens. echomadman fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Feb 5, 2009 |
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Feb 5, 2009 00:47
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Picked up some safety glasses and a mini screwdriver set at Dollar Tree today. They are a bit cheaper than harbor freight. Mine actually had quite an array of basic home tools including hammer, 10 bit screwdriver sets, etc.
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Feb 5, 2009 01:57
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Is there a tool that can sense if water is flowing through a pipe? Like one that'd be used to diagnose sprinkler systems?
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Feb 9, 2009 01:06
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It's called a flow switch, and yes, they're common 
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Feb 9, 2009 01:09
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My Harbor Freightload for the weekend: 1x Hi-Lift jack copy - this thing is fuckin' built and I have no doubts as to its durability. Heavy. Good steel pins in it, or so it appears. Lifted the Blazer (which is on 33's with a 4 inch lift) for a tire change no problemo, didn't even break a sweat. Only downside is that it doesn't have the rotating end piece so you can use it as a giant clamp. No big deal. Definitely worth the $35.99 sale price. 2x 4000 lb come-along - these were on sale for $13.99 a pop. We needed them to move a ~500 pound oak limb that went through my roof in the recent Arkansas ice storm. They are the same as the 2000 pound one, but use a pulley on the far end to double the capacity. I unrigged the pulley and ran them straight for longer pull. Just like the jack, strong as hell and though lowering requires two hands, it wasn't too bad. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Feb 9, 2009 |
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Feb 9, 2009 01:34
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Anyone experienced with air pressure regulators for air compressors? I bought my shop's Ingersoll Rand air compressor (it says T10 on the side and it's a 2.5 HP 20 gallon) and it was missing the knob for the regulator so I bought a new regulator at Sears. My only gripe is that the regulator that was originally there had two gauges, one that rear tank (inlet I assume) PSI and another that read the outlet PSI and the new one does not seem to. If I had the outlet pressure turned off all the way, the tank one would read 100 or so while the other would read 0. The new regulator reads 0 on both when off and pretty much the same PSI when I turn the pressure on. Any suggestions for a new regulator? I used the same two gauges even though this Craftsman one came with a new gauge. I tried to find a replacement for the same model but it only says model AC-0076 and searching for that on Google, ebay, etc doesn't turn up much. EDIT: I found a Sears part (on SearsPartsDirect and on ebay) that has the same model number but it does not look the same. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showPart.pd?partNumber=AC-0076&productGroupId=0009&supplierId=919&pathTaken=partSearch&pop=flush EDIT2: Found a PDF with a diagram of some Sears air compressor that looks very similar to mine despite mine being an IR model. Just gonna order the part and hope it works the way I want it to, I figure it can't be any worse and at the very least it's a few bucks cheaper. Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Feb 10, 2009 |
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Feb 10, 2009 03:53
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I'm pretty sure IR and CH make the majority of store branded air compressors out there.
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Feb 11, 2009 00:02
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RealKyleH posted:Picked up some safety glasses and a mini screwdriver set at Dollar Tree today. They are a bit cheaper than harbor freight. Mine actually had quite an array of basic home tools including hammer, 10 bit screwdriver sets, etc. I don't know about your dollar store, but I bought some screwdrivers at the local pound store and they were terrible. For whatever reason the steel wasn't hardened, so they disorted when I put some pressure on them to unscrew something. It may have been that batch (they stopped selling those screwdrivers shortly after I went), but it is true that you get what you pay for. It's a pound though (dollar), so it's not a huge loss. It is frustrating if you're expecting a screwdriver to drive screws and you find it doesn't though, especially if you don't have any others and all the shops are closed.
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Feb 11, 2009 01:00
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leor posted:I don't know about your dollar store, but I bought some screwdrivers at the local pound store and they were terrible. For whatever reason the steel wasn't hardened, so they disorted when I put some pressure on them to unscrew something. Yeah, all the pound (£)-shop tools are like that. Even the very generic stuff like a cross-head screwdriver will be fairly pants and damage fasteners. The only time I get stuff from there nowadays is for when I need something to cut up and make something else out of - like creating a brake caliper rewind tool from a cheap socket set. Their glasses screwdrivers that I would pick up from there were so bad that the shank and head weren't attached properly, so the body would turn with your fingers, and the screw would stay put. If you *need* a set of mini screwdrivers, B&Q carry a set from Stanley - they come in a yellow box with a clear window on the lid - and they're really quite good.
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Feb 11, 2009 01:08
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Yea the mini screwdrivers are only world using on fairly loose screws set in plastic or something like that. I got them because I need to attach wires to those big plastic things they use in machinery for small wires. Not sure what they are called by all my screw drivers are slightly too big. They are made of recycled steel cans or something like that.
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Feb 11, 2009 04:14
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I have no idea what you're talking about but now I wanna know! It's not conduit, right?
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Feb 11, 2009 07:19
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Chauncey posted:I have no idea what you're talking about but now I wanna know! What I'm talking about? No its those plastic things that come in various sizes and are numbered and you screw wires into both sides of them. I usually only see pretty small gauge wires screwed into them. They're in the control boxes on the side of my CNC Mill. The screws hold the wires in place. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Feb 11, 2009 |
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Feb 11, 2009 09:54
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RealKyleH posted:What I'm talking about? No its those plastic things that come in various sizes and are numbered and you screw wires into both sides of them. I usually only see pretty small gauge wires screwed into them. They're in the control boxes on the side of my CNC Mill. The screws hold the wires in place. Terminal block?
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Feb 11, 2009 10:10
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meltie posted:Terminal block? Thats probably it as it is similar and has the same function only I don't see one that looks quite like it.
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Feb 11, 2009 10:15
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Is there such thing as a good 1/2" pneumatic impact gun for under 100 bucks? I currently have a super cheap like 15 dollar harbor freight one, and it's as worthless as it is huge and heavy. My friend has the Ingersoll Rand "Thunder Gun" from harbor freight which works awesome, but that was like $200 and I really don't see myself using it very often.
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Feb 11, 2009 10:23
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meltie posted:If you *need* a set of mini screwdrivers, B&Q carry a set from Stanley - they come in a yellow box with a clear window on the lid - and they're really quite good.
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Feb 11, 2009 10:40
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Lowclock posted:Is there such thing as a good 1/2" pneumatic impact gun for under 100 bucks? I currently have a super cheap like 15 dollar harbor freight one, and it's as worthless as it is huge and heavy. My friend has the Ingersoll Rand "Thunder Gun" from harbor freight which works awesome, but that was like $200 and I really don't see myself using it very often. Garage Journal and others say the Ingersoll Rand 231c is good ($110). Thinking about picking one up myself.
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Feb 11, 2009 14:17
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On my way to the store yesterday, I noticed a small yellow box sitting in a ditch. It was still there on my way back, so I stopped to look: I found a Fluke on a fluke!  It's dirty and a little beat up, but I did some scientific tests* and it seems to read accurately. I dunno if someone threw it out or it fell off a truck, but it sure beats my lovely Radioshack multimeter.*Tested a couple of resistors and jammed the probes into a wall socket
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Feb 11, 2009 15:03
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You lucky bastard. That poo poo never happens to me. I'd be pretty endlessly happy if I found a Fluke in a ditch.
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Feb 11, 2009 15:13
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Jonny 290 posted:My Harbor Freightload for the weekend: Whats the part number for the jack? Are the Husky brand jacks and jackstands worth the purchase? Lando fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Feb 11, 2009 |
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Feb 11, 2009 15:25
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Lando posted:Whats the part number for the jack? Dunno about the Husky jacks / stands but everybody says HF jacks are pretty much worth the money. Part number for the farm jack is 6530, I believe. They had a huge pile of them in the back.
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Feb 11, 2009 17:46
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Starting a tool collection - bought a Motomaster 2-ton jack and pair of stands for $50 from Canadian Tire, some funnels, an oil pan and some small stuff like a tire pressure gauge and coolant tester. I'm only perturbed that it's too cold to mess with most of it 
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Feb 11, 2009 17:55
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Stevobob posted:I'm only perturbed that it's too cold to mess with most of it Fact: The shittier the weather is when you work on your car, the better the repair will perform. Brake swap on a 75 degree sunny day? poo poo will disintegrate in 500 miles. Replace your radiator when it's 8 degrees with freezing rain? You're good until you sell the car, and it'll add 5 HP minimum.
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Feb 11, 2009 18:00
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Maxwedge posted:Garage Journal and others say the Ingersoll Rand 231c is good ($110). Thinking about picking one up myself. That looks pretty nice for the price. Can't find anything but glowing reviews about it. I think I'll have to get it! Thanks.
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Feb 13, 2009 07:02
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Does anyone make a grease gun that doesn't leak?
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Feb 13, 2009 07:26
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I've never had a grease gun leak?? how so? I'd try MSC or another industrial supply co. and buy one of the midpriced or higher priced ones and I'm sure it'd be guaranteed not to leak. do you use tubes or pack it in or does that even matter.
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Feb 13, 2009 07:27
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I had an ancient grease gun that was hand filled. It worked like a champ, until I left it in a wet toolbox and the pump rusted solid. I replaced it with a HF gun, which leaked at the piston and made a horrible mess when I went to uncock it. I replaced that with a lincoln, which uncocks itself if you breathe on it. Both of those are now returned. I'm considering just buying this and leaving it in a big ziploc.
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Feb 13, 2009 08:23
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What are the advantages and disadvantages of vacuum bleeding vs pressure bleeding (as in those fitted MC caps that hook to a compressor, not pedal pumping)? I want to pick up one or the other, and my last experience with a vacuum bleeder was my friend's lovely little craftsman hand pump. I know a mityvac or whatever has to be better than that, but is the pressure bleeder setup even better?
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Feb 13, 2009 11:07
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oxbrain posted:I had an ancient grease gun that was hand filled. It worked like a champ, until I left it in a wet toolbox and the pump rusted solid. I replaced it with a HF gun, which leaked at the piston and made a horrible mess when I went to uncock it. I replaced that with a lincoln, which uncocks itself if you breathe on it. Both of those are now returned. Put a whip hose on it, and stick a rubber glove over the tip. The glove keeps the grease mess contained to the hose only, not the entire gun.
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Feb 13, 2009 14:19
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Maxwedge posted:Garage Journal and others say the Ingersoll Rand 231c is good ($110). Thinking about picking one up myself. The C denotes that it was made in China. The 231 non-C should be a little better but for weekend wrenchers I'm sure the C is fine.
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Feb 13, 2009 17:17
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Lowclock posted:What are the advantages and disadvantages of vacuum bleeding vs pressure bleeding (as in those fitted MC caps that hook to a compressor, not pedal pumping)? I want to pick up one or the other, and my last experience with a vacuum bleeder was my friend's lovely little craftsman hand pump. I know a mityvac or whatever has to be better than that, but is the pressure bleeder setup even better? I was at Harbor Freight today and decided to pick up this. Looks pretty awesome. Don't have to keep topping up the MC, seems to be pretty universal, don't have to keep pumping a stupid little hand pump. I especially hated doing it with a vacuum pump because on most cars they seem to pull air in around the bleeder, which this shouldn't do. I'll post back with how well it works soon when I replace my 17 year old brake fluid (or should I wait another year and buy it a pack of smokes?).
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Feb 14, 2009 00:15
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Lowclock posted:(or should I wait another year and buy it a pack of smokes?). Just don't wait four years, or it'll be old enough to go buy a pistol and get some revenge on your rear end!
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Feb 14, 2009 00:20
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Picked up a Harbor Freight engine stand, it was $50 plus tax. http://wtf132.wtfserve.net/~dave/newy8/20090210133457.jpg http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32915 It's definitely doing its job, I'm not putting much strain on it with just a Honda longblock so I can't say whether or not it'd hold a big motor. Rated for 750 pounds though, so there should not be any problems. Hopefully I will use the engine hoist I got at Pep Boys soon, I've always wanted an engine hoist. 
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Feb 14, 2009 08:19
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