|
Jorsh posted:Dude I'm not going to try to argue with you about this. Whatever bad financial decisions you want to make are your business. There is nothing to argue. As someone who deals with BMWs pretty much every waking moment of my life, I can tell you Brock Landers is spot on. The iS and iX cars are rare, and people can ask these prices because someone will pay. I recently saw a rare as gently caress E30 iX coupe (tell me how many of these things you've seen) go for $8k. You're not buying them, but there are people out there who actually have money that are willing to pay. Lufiron fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 10, 2009 |
#
?
Feb 10, 2009 23:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 03:13 |
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:(the non-LSD E46s are HILARIOUSLY drifty with one-wheel drive) 
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2009 00:57
|
|
|
When you join the BMW CCA for $40 does that let you participate in all the events/driving schools or do you have to pay an additional fee for each event you want to join?
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2009 03:28
|
|
|
Groan Zone posted:When you join the BMW CCA for $40 does that let you participate in all the events/driving schools or do you have to pay an additional fee for each event you want to join? Yes, there are additional fees. Say, like $70 for a driving school, $35 for an autocross, and $300 for a 2-day track day.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2009 04:47
|
|
|
Mad Dragon posted:The only E46s with LSDs are M3s. Yeah, I phrased that badly, but the point is this: without an LSD, normal E46s get rear end-happy under throttle very easily. This is good for entertaining spouses.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2009 04:16
|
|
|
Was hoping if anyone had any experience with the camshaft position sensors on the M44's. Mine looks like it's crapping out and was wondering if there's any risk with going with one of the cheaper alternatives. To give you an idea, the oem part is up on RMEuropean.com for $115, but they also offer a JL brand part for only $58. Is the price for the oem part just inflated because it's oem? Or is the JL part made with cheaper specs/materials? Any advice is appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2009 06:39
|
|
|
HEHEHE posted:Was hoping if anyone had any experience with the camshaft position sensors on the M44's. Mine looks like it's crapping out and was wondering if there's any risk with going with one of the cheaper alternatives. To give you an idea, the oem part is up on RMEuropean.com for $115, but they also offer a JL brand part for only $58. How easy is the sensor to replace? If it takes 10 minutes, then going non-OEM wouldn't be too bad. If it craps out, you won't have to spend 6 hours installing it again. Then again, if it craps out and you're 200 miles from home, that would suck. EDIT: Define "looks like". These sensors usually just work, or they don't. Is yours a 1996 or later car where you can read the fault codes and confirm it's the cam sensor? Even the pre-96 cars can read the codes by doing the "stomp test" and watching the flashing CEL.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2009 13:35
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:How easy is the sensor to replace? The sensor itself is easy to get to, but the connector is under a plastic cover under the intake if I remember correctly. Some guys with small hands can get at it by taking the oil filter out, others have to take the top of the intake off which should be 4 10mm fasteners. Either way, its pretty easy, but what I would consider easy might be something totally different for someone else.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2009 17:26
|
|
|
What's the recommended vendor for shocks and struts for an E36 convertible? I think I remember seeing a "suspension package deal" come up last year, anything like that? I want something sporty but I don't need to spend top dollar.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2009 23:33
|
|
|
Daddy Fantastic posted:What's the recommended vendor for shocks and struts for an E36 convertible? I think I remember seeing a "suspension package deal" come up last year, anything like that? I want something sporty but I don't need to spend top dollar. Sachs (OEM) are good, Bilsteins are better.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2009 23:58
|
|
|
Lufiron posted:Sachs (OEM) are good, Bilsteins are better. Koni's are superb and less expensive than Bilsteins. Here's a couple options for online stores (with different prices) I've looked into recently: http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=BMW&autoModel=325is&autoYear=1995&autoModClar=&brand=&category=Shocks http://understeer.com/onlinestore-suspension.shtml http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared...et=products.asp
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 00:17
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:How easy is the sensor to replace? If it takes 10 minutes, then going non-OEM wouldn't be too bad. If it craps out, you won't have to spend 6 hours installing it again. Then again, if it craps out and you're 200 miles from home, that would suck. I actually used a friend's ODBII scanner to confirm it was the cam sensor. I figured something was up when I was getting crap gas mileage, hard starts and rough idling on cold mornings - this also revealed that my CEL must be burned out. Since the job sounds simple enough I'll just try out the JL sensor. Thanks for the responses guys.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 00:43
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good resource for interior parts? I'm looking for some minor stuff (i.e., glove box latch), and trying to avoid the comic dealer prices. RealOEM so far as told me everything I need, but has none of it for sale.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 01:28
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Does anyone have a good resource for interior parts? I'm looking for some minor stuff (i.e., glove box latch), and trying to avoid the comic dealer prices. Pelican Parts has pretty much everything. I think RMeuropean has a lot of stuff too. I've ordered some stupid interior bits from Pelican with no problem.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 01:56
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Does anyone have a good resource for interior parts? I'm looking for some minor stuff (i.e., glove box latch), and trying to avoid the comic dealer prices.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 02:58
|
|
|
It looks like they have everything, but the prices are still rough. Pelican wants $20 more than the dealership for the glove box latch. drat the man.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 04:31
|
|
|
Stay away from Pelican, they're really expensive. Try http://rmeuropean.com or http://autohausaz.com . I've been thinking about getting a set of RIMZZZZ for the M3. Anyone have any experience with Kosei K1s? They're lightweight, and I'm worried about their strength, but I can't seem to find any posts on any forums with people saying they've bent them. Do most people leave a staggered setup when they change wheels? I was considering just going with 225 all around instead, but I don't want to ruin any driving dynamics. My car is pushing stock power with no plans for anything major, so it's not like the drive tires will have anything major to contend with, but 225 vs. 245 is a bit smaller... Rotating tires for wear would be nice though  . Also, will changing to 225 just look stupid, from a purely superficial point of view?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 18:35
|
|
|
I've been rocking a set of k1's and 245/40's b'stone re01r's for over 15k miles on the street, 100+ autocross runs, 3 track days and no problems. I rubbed a bit up front with a stock suspension and when I didn't have enough negative camber. Consider 235's if you want to spend less and worry less about tire rub. Do you have a stock suspension? Don't even consider a staggered setup or 225's on a m3.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2009 19:17
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:I've been rocking a set of k1's and 245/40's b'stone re01r's for over 15k miles on the street, 100+ autocross runs, 3 track days and no problems. I rubbed a bit up front with a stock suspension and when I didn't have enough negative camber. Consider 235's if you want to spend less and worry less about tire rub. Thanks for the reply. I was going by Tire Rack's recommended size. You do realize the stock setup is staggered, though, right? I currently have a stock suspension, but I'll be moving to Koni Sports and Eibach Pro springs soon. If 235's all around fit, I'll go that route. I wasn't aware that they wouldn't rub in the front.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2009 00:45
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:Thanks for the reply. I was going by Tire Rack's recommended size. You do realize the stock setup is staggered, though, right? I currently have a stock suspension, but I'll be moving to Koni Sports and Eibach Pro springs soon. If 235's all around fit, I'll go that route. I wasn't aware that they wouldn't rub in the front. 96-99 were staggered, 95 wasn't. They put staggered wheels on to make them less prone to oversteer, along with a few other changes like alignment, a slower steering rack, and a stiffer front sway bar and softer rear bar.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2009 12:23
|
|
|
So I've been hearing this ticking coming from my engine compartment lately. It's still been really cold here, so that may have something to do with it, but it seems to happen even when the car's fully warmed up. I grabbed my stethoscope to see if I can't pinpoint the noise (ie, VANOS, something on the belt system, etc) but is there anything I can look for specifically? If it is VANOS ticking, is it a big deal? Should I go to a heavier weight oil (I have Castrol Syntec 5W30 in there right now).
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2009 17:24
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:So I've been hearing this ticking coming from my engine compartment lately. It's still been really cold here, so that may have something to do with it, but it seems to happen even when the car's fully warmed up. The VANOS noise is more of a marbles noise than a tick. More like a rubbing noise. You didn't mention what car, but when I had my '95 M3 the biggest thing that would affect any ticking noise was the oil level. I used to keep that oil level a little higher on the dipstick and wouldn't hear too much, when it fell, that tick would get louder and louder.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2009 21:32
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:Kosei K1 and Staggered I run Kosei K1's as track tires. I bought a used pair from a guy that ran them in spec E30 for two seasons. They are a bit dinged up, have rub marks but were cheap, light and hold up fine. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the K1's failing, you should be fine. Car manufacturers stagger tires on cars to make them "safer", usually with wider in the rear which reduces oversteer. We went with one size all around on the M3 and it made it more fun on the track and allows us to rotate the tires. I would recommend getting away from staggered.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2009 22:10
|
|
|
And the lifter tick can get pretty bad if you've done some hard driving (autocross). I skipped out on a day of double overtime to finish up the work on my 318iS and I had it running by noon. Watched it for leaks while it warmed up...running smoothly, excellent. Coolant began to piss from one of the hoses deep under the intake...gently caress! Spend 3+ hours taking it all apart again, tighened the poo poo out of the hose. Double check everything, fire it up...runs like poo poo and stalls. gently caress. I think I'm just getting really tired of fixing poo poo on these cars, my loving e36 is a mess too. I think I'll just get the 318 fixed up, sell it and part out the 328. I like driving cars, not fixing poo poo and using up all my spare time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2009 22:10
|
|
|
usurper posted:The VANOS noise is more of a marbles noise than a tick. More like a rubbing noise. I know my oil level is nearing the bottom of the line on the dipstick and already bought a quart to bring it back up to where it needs to be. I'll see if it helps. Also, '97 328i 5-speed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2009 22:17
|
|
|
Hmm, my 2000 328i is stuttering a little when accelerating from a stop, what does that mean? Is it expensive to fix? If I've replaced my control arms and valve cover gasket with no problems will I be okay to replace it myself? Figures this happens right after I go back to school.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2009 23:46
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Also, '97 328i 5-speed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 04:09
|
|
|
Mad Dragon posted:I think the problem is your car uses 15W40 dino oil. Is it a good idea to run that weight of oil when it's -15°F outside, though? (actually, I suppose it's not good to start the car at all, but I need to get to work!)
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 14:09
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Is it a good idea to run that weight of oil when it's -15°F outside, though? Thats what that 15W part is for.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 14:14
|
|
|
Lufiron posted:Thats what that 15W part is for. edit: you sure? from http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/air_filters_oil/ques120_1.html quote:As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it's important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures. I thought the lighter the oil, the better in cold weather. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Feb 17, 2009 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 14:16
|
|
|
From the E36 Service Manual: But if you are hearing weird noises, I would first try running an extra 1/2 quart of oil over the fill line (supposedly fixes it for some people), or trying the thicker oil. I plan on running 15W-40 as much as possible, just because we get it in 50 gallon barrels for the tractors. Edit: I believe 0W-40 is the new year around oil BMW recommends. 5W-40 should also be OK. I don't think they suggest using 5W-30 anymore. Swap_File fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Feb 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 19:00
|
|
|
Swap_File posted:From the E36 Service Manual: I thought that looked familiar. I'll put in some extra 5W30 and see what happens.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 19:05
|
|
|
Swap_File posted:
My '08 5er still says it likes 5W-30, but I like the idea of 0W-40 given the heat we get in summer.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 20:01
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:edit: you sure? All I'm saying is that in colder ambient conditions the oil can be pumped like a single grade 15 weight oil. Its what the manufacturer recommends, and it may solve your ticking issue to switch to it. In the end its your car though, you can run whatever you like. Swap_File posted:From the E36 Service Manual: uhh, I'm working as a tech at a dealer as I post this. We're still using 5w-30 full synthetic. Heck, we only have 5w-30 and 10w-60. For older vehicles, we have to get the oil from a place next door. VVVV We have diesel vehicles at my dealer, its 5w-30 Castrol Syntec SLX OE Professional. Same rating, different additives I assume. Lufiron fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 17, 2009 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 21:41
|
|
|
Swap_File posted:Edit: I believe 0W-40 is the new year around oil BMW recommends. 5W-40 should also be OK. I don't think they suggest using 5W-30 anymore. Mad Dragon fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Feb 17, 2009 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 21:44
|
|
|
Lufiron posted:VVVV We have diesel vehicles at my dealer, but nothing to service them with. Not even that AdBlue DEF crap yet. Side question: do the techs get to drive the new hottness when it comes in? I'd love a first-hand evaluation of the new diesel 3er.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 21:52
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Side question: do the techs get to drive the new hottness when it comes in? I'd love a first-hand evaluation of the new diesel 3er. Yes, during pre-delivery inspection. We only have diesel X5s right now, and those things have balls. We had a snowstorm not too long ago, and without shoveling, and on all season tires, the thing plowed its way out. Things got torque for days. I can't wait to see a 3'er myself.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2009 21:54
|
|
|
It's that time of the year again, time to switch out the winter tires for something built for the dry season. Financial difficulties are preventing me from getting the wheel/tire combination I was planning on, so the smarter choice right now will be some performance all-seasons, preferably something I can survive an Ohio winter with in case I can't afford another set of Blizzaks next winter. 2002 325i, stock 205/55R16 size (e: I guess 225/50R16 was also a factory size on the same wheels, according to Tire Rack). H rating matches the factory speed limiter which I doubt I'll remove (requires a costly chip that doesn't really gain me anything else) but there is a part of me that wants a V rated tire just in case I end up with spare money, so all else being equal I'll go with a V rating but will take a H rating without complaint. I put 30,000 miles on the car, primarily highway, in just over a year. I know grip and long life are contrary goals, but I'd like something that will last at least 30,000 more miles but still let me take on the various back roads confidently. wolrah fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Feb 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2009 00:07
|
|
|
wolrah posted:It's that time of the year again, time to switch out the winter tires for something built for the dry season. Financial difficulties are preventing me from getting the wheel/tire combination I was planning on, so the smarter choice right now will be some performance all-seasons, preferably something I can survive an Ohio winter with in case I can't afford another set of Blizzaks next winter. I've got some Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions and I can't complain. I wore my rears down quite fast but I had some bad shocks and since I replace those, they're wearing normally. 25k on the front set, 10k on the back set, I think they're some of the best all-reason tires you can get. Also, I'm in northern Indiana, and just went through my second winter with them. Winter tires would be better, but for what they are they're not bad at all. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Feb 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2009 00:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 03:13 |
|
|
CornHolio posted:I've got some Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions and I can't complain. I was actually going to recommend the same thing. I've had them on for around 3,000 miles now and they still look brand new.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2009 00:39
|
|