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Not an expert, but I also have similar potenzas, and I can't complain. That said, I live in DC and we don't get much snow. Nor do I have to drive in said snow, so I can't speak to that. But they definitely don't turn completely hockey puckish in the cold and have hella fine grip. PS: Might as well fold in a question. I've got an e39 530, and my front left turn signal is on the fritz. Works fine 80% of the time, dies 20% of the time. Sometimes in the same drive. I think there is a wiring issue as popping the hood and jiggering the wires seems to fix it sometimes, but how does one pin down and or/fix the issue?
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Feb 18, 2009 00:40
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McSnatch posted:Hmm, my 2000 328i is stuttering a little when accelerating from a stop, what does that mean? Is it expensive to fix? If I've replaced my control arms and valve cover gasket with no problems will I be okay to replace it myself? Figures this happens right after I go back to school. Anyone?
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Feb 18, 2009 00:59
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It looks like I'm going to be replacing my RTABs in the spring, along with some other maintenance. I plan on using this DIY, complete with the tools. How much better are the M3 bushings than the standard ones in terms of lifetime? Where can I get some shims that everybody talks about, how much do they cost, and are they worth it? I think I asked about this a few pages back, but I didn't think I'd need them yet. After looking at one side today, it looks like i was wrong.
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Feb 18, 2009 03:06
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CornHolio posted:It looks like I'm going to be replacing my RTABs in the spring, along with some other maintenance. I plan on using this DIY, complete with the tools. Having replaced a shitload of RTABs (twice on my car, first time I went with regular 3 series ones, then went with the solid M3 bushings + shims), I'll say that the M3 bushings and shims are worth the price. I got the shims from Rogue Engineering ( http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RE&Product_Code=RTAB_SHIM ). In terms of lifetime, probably not much, 10k more miles maybe? If you replace them now it'll probably be the only time you have to unless you have the car another 60-80k miles. Make sure to get an alignment after you do this, as it is drat near impossible to bolt the trailing arms back where they're supposed to be. Also, this is the method I used: Drill out the center of the bushing with the biggest and best drill you have, in my case, a hammer drill that you plug directly into the wall, goes through the bushing like butter. Once you have most of it out, take a sawzall and carefully cut the metal bushing shell into quarters, take a screw drive and a hammer and knock one of the pieces out and the rest can easily be removed by hand. To install the new ones I made that tool from your DIY link, works like a treat.
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Feb 18, 2009 03:30
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CornHolio posted:Also, I'm in northern Indiana, and just went through my second winter with them. Winter tires would be better, but for what they are they're not bad at all. That's what I like to hear. I'm outside of the Snow Belt by about 30 miles, so 90% of the driving I do is identical to what you get over there (or maybe lighter depending on if you're north enough to get lake effect. I was already looking at these, since the RE-01Rs were my intended super high performance purchase and I love my Blizzaks, sticking with Bridgestone just seemed to make sense. If I don't hear otherwise, I'll probably be getting a set of these put on some time this week.
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Feb 18, 2009 03:48
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I don't personally have any experience with different oils, I was just repeating what was posted over on e30zone. There was some huge table that had E30s and E36s, and it listed 0W-40 and 5W-40 as the new suggested replacements for E36s (And some E30s). It looked like a good source of information at the time, sorry if anyone was mislead. 
Swap_File fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Feb 18, 2009 |
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Feb 18, 2009 04:02
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I have a '91 e34. It was a non-runner before I bought it, (more accurately a barely-runner), Hadn't been started in a year before I got it, and I had it running fairly nicely for a while, but it's sat for another 3 months... The body is in fair shape, the interior is in fair shape. So far I've put into it: New MAF sensor New hoses New radiator New plugs/wires It needs: Rear Brake Calipers (x2)* New Brakes all around* Trans service (Sometimes sticks in second)* Front alignment* Fuel door release mechanism replacement There's an oil leak from the bottom (not the oil pan) when the car is in motion. specific location of leak not as yet determined.* Rear door upholstery seems to have shrunk Lights in instrument cluster need to be replaced. I looked this up, and it seems to be more of a pain than it's worth. Right rear tail light plastic. Other Notes: It has 218k miles. Has recent head/valve job Passed smog with flying colors Tags are in the one-year penalty range (about $300) Engine seems to run strong, and once I've sourced and replaced the oil leak (what I hope is a gasket) the engine will be sound except for a minor tick. All electronics work. If I do the asterisked items, I figure it should run me $1,400. I paid $800 for it via a goon friend with the understanding it'll need work, and the registration is three transfers in without a title re-issue. I need something reliable ASAP. I love the car. I just wonder if it's too far gone to be worth it? My question - Invest, sell, junk (part out) or trade? Clockwork Sputnik fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Feb 18, 2009 |
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Feb 18, 2009 05:01
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McSnatch posted:Anyone? Going to need some more info. Is this an automatic or a manual transmission? Does it stutter all the time, or just when it's cold or warm? What's the service history look like on the car? How many miles?
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Feb 18, 2009 13:36
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McSnatch posted:Anyone? This could be anything from a simple software fix via programming of the DME to something like the DISA valve mechanically faulty. The only way to know for sure is to have the car in front of me to diagnose. I really can't help here, sorry.
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Feb 18, 2009 14:00
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:boatload of information Thanks for the info. I plan on doing my tie rods over the same weekend (probably next month), so come the following Monday I'll just take it in and get a full four-wheel alignment.
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Feb 18, 2009 14:01
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McSnatch posted:Anyone? How's the idle? Will it idle for a long time without any issues?
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Feb 18, 2009 16:08
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Sterndotstern posted:Side question: do the techs get to drive the new hottness when it comes in? I'd love a first-hand evaluation of the new diesel 3er. Oh yeah, it's one of the few perks. However, M cars are sort of a let-down right when they first come in because of the 1200 mile break-in requirement. Like Lufiron, we haven't gotten the 335d yet, just X5s. I was a little disappointed with the X5 actually. Too normal; drives like a 3.0si. As a side note to Lufiron, do you work over at Herb Chambers? I used to be a tech at Foreign Motors West a few years ago before they got absorbed.
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Feb 19, 2009 04:41
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peterjmatt posted:As a side note to Lufiron, do you work over at Herb Chambers? I used to be a tech at Foreign Motors West a few years ago before they got absorbed. Oh god no. I know people who work there, that place sucks. I work at BMW Gallery Norwell. Did you know Barry Peletier? (if thats how you spell it) He was one of the real old farts who worked at FMW forever. He left when they got absorbed, and now works in the bay across from mine. e: There was also an irish kid with a track prepped 2002 that worked over there as well. I can't remember his name, though.
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Feb 19, 2009 05:23
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Ah good, I wouldn't want to bad-mouth Chambers if you were a tech there, but it seems to be where all the gently caress-ups ended up. Hah, yeah I worked with Barry...he was on my team. Tell him Peter Mattchen says hi. Small world. I'll stop derailing the thread now.
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Feb 19, 2009 07:11
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Brock Landers posted:Going to need some more info. Is this an automatic or a manual transmission? Does it stutter all the time, or just when it's cold or warm? What's the service history look like on the car? How many miles? It's an automatic with steptronic. Don't know about hot or cold, though I just moved from a cold area (Connecticut) to a hot area (Georgia) and it seemed to start when I moved to the hot area. Service history, nothing in particular with the engine changed besides a new valve cover gasket/belts/oil changes. I replaced the control arms/control arm bushings recently. 78,000 miles, service at 65,000 didn't note anything wrong in the engine. ynotony posted:How's the idle? Will it idle for a long time without any issues? If it idles for awhile in sub zero temperatures and the engine is still cold it tends to rev itself occasionally. A couple times in the years I've had it the entire car has shut off. Thanks for the help!
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Feb 19, 2009 08:03
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McSnatch posted:It's an automatic with steptronic. Don't know about hot or cold, though I just moved from a cold area (Connecticut) to a hot area (Georgia) and it seemed to start when I moved to the hot area. Service history, nothing in particular with the engine changed besides a new valve cover gasket/belts/oil changes. I replaced the control arms/control arm bushings recently. 78,000 miles, service at 65,000 didn't note anything wrong in the engine. Is your check engine light on? And if it's not, make sure the light's functional by turning the key to the second position (last click before cranking) without starting the car. Your first step should be getting your fault codes read. I'd highly recommend going to either a dealer or an independent shop that specializes in BMWs. Normally you can get codes read just about anywhere (including Autozone for free) but BMWs aren't exactly generic scan tool friendly, so the amount of info you can get out of our DMEs without the proper code reader is pretty sparse. In fact, BMW's fault codes only marginally align with OBDII requirements which has been the cause of several recalls to date. The most common cause of the symptoms you're describing on an m52tu/m54 motor would be one of your cam sensors failing. However, this will usually set an SES light. If the problem is one of your cam sensors, it's a fairly simple repair though the sensor itself costs around 100 from the dealer (going from memory here, I could be way off), probably cheaper online. Keep in mind this is a guess and a problem like this really needs to be replicated and diagnosed in person. Good luck
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Feb 19, 2009 08:26
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peterjmatt posted:Normally you can get codes read just about anywhere (including Autozone for free) but BMWs aren't exactly generic scan tool friendly, so the amount of info you can get out of our DMEs without the proper code reader is pretty sparse. In fact, BMW's fault codes only marginally align with OBDII requirements which has been the cause of several recalls to date. Speaking of this, what is people's opinions on Peake Research BMW scan tools? I have a couple (one regular one and one SRS one, since my airbag light was on and I needed it to reset the light). I like mine, but I know it's not as good as the DMEs. How good is it though?
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Feb 19, 2009 15:35
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Quick question: Ive got a 1991 318IS w/ M42 engine. Just the other day, I was checking my oil. I noticed that around the oil fill cap there was some oil. Now, I know I did not spill a bunch or anything, this was definitly oil that overflowed out of the oil cap. The cap did not seem to be on loose or anything, but I could be wrong. This has never happened before, but both last weekend and the weekend before I went on 200 mile trips. Other than that, everything is running in top shape. Ive got 180,000 miles on the car/engine, and it is about time for an oil change.
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Feb 19, 2009 15:37
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peterjmatt posted:Is your check engine light on? And if it's not, make sure the light's functional by turning the key to the second position (last click before cranking) without starting the car. Ah well, it's truly sad because the BMW dealership in Connecticut sent me flyer offering a free lookover of the car right before I left for Georgia. Oh well, thanks for your help, I'll have to bring it in.
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Feb 21, 2009 09:58
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This is a dumb, and hopefully easy question. Sigh. The manual for my e38 mentions a lot of things that can be set (e.g., the car can be set to auto-lock the doors when in motion). So far as I can tell, it never mentions how to set these options. Is there some hoojoo I'm missing?
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Feb 21, 2009 21:42
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OrangeFurious posted:This is a dumb, and hopefully easy question. Sigh. Many of the options (drive away locking being one of them, daytime running lights, selective unlocking etc) are set through what's known as car/key memory programming, and must be done at a dealer or specialty shop. Edit: VVVV If you own a BMW it's a good idea to make friends with the mechanics at the local dealership. A dealer charges between 20-100 dollars for changing programming (unless you bought the car there), but it actually takes a tech maybe 10 minutes and no real effort. I've changed CKM for friends a bunch of times. And if you own an e38 you're going to need all the friends you can get. Not to scare you, but those cars are money pits. Great to drive for a big car though. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Feb 21, 2009 |
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Feb 21, 2009 22:05
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peterjmatt posted:Many of the options (drive away locking being one of them, daytime running lights, selective unlocking etc) are set through what's known as car/key memory programming, and must be done at a dealer or specialty shop. I had a feeling that might be the case. It's about time I make friends with the dealer anyway.
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Feb 21, 2009 22:26
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OrangeFurious posted:I had a feeling that might be the case. It's about time I make friends with the dealer anyway. If you know someone with a Carsoft setup you might be able to do it as well. I have Carsoft 6.5 which I think can do E38 coding. I'm actually feeling like a bit of a dumbass right now since I bought the adapter with only a 20 pin connector which does not exist on my 2002 E46, apparently it's a 1988-2000 plug.
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Feb 22, 2009 06:53
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There's an '89 525i auto for $1000 near here, the guy says "runs well, has a broken (as in smashed) window and two more are off track." I'm thinking of going to take a look at it. Is this car massively underpriced in anybody's opinion? I was really kind of digging around for e30's but they are nowhere to be found around here. I can turn a wrench okay. Any glaring issues with this particular run/model?
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Feb 23, 2009 07:30
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Jonny 290 posted:There's an '89 525i auto for $1000 near here, the guy says "runs well, has a broken (as in smashed) window and two more are off track." I'm thinking of going to take a look at it. Not massively underpriced at all. Massively underpowered... probably. The early E34 525i used the M20 from the E30 cars. Mated to the autobox, it's a slug of a car. With 3 broken windows, I'd be willing to bet it hasn't been properly cared for in years. If it runs and drives without major drama, offer $750 and use it for basic transportation until it totally dies. It really isn't worth fixing up.
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Feb 23, 2009 13:43
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quote:It really isn't worth fixing up That cuts straight to the chase. Thanks!
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Feb 23, 2009 16:06
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Fiiiiiiiiiiinally got the 318iS up and running after a month. I had only driven it for 5 days since owning it. Still not sure if I'll keep it or pick up an s2k.
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Feb 23, 2009 19:18
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BraveUlysses posted:Fiiiiiiiiiiinally got the 318iS up and running after a month. I had only driven it for 5 days since owning it. If you weren't on the completely opposite side of the country I'd want to buy it from you 
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Feb 23, 2009 19:20
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Dyscrasia posted:Quick question: I also have a 91 318is. The seal on my oil fill cap degraded and caused oil leakage - so I simply sourced a modern M logo piece. I would imagine this is what happened to yours, as well. Here : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-...sQ5fAccessories That's the exact unit I have.
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Feb 24, 2009 01:40
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I have a 97 328is that is black and beautiful which I have not driven for ~10 months because of moving to another country. ahhhhhgggggggg I want to drive it ahgggggggggg someone hold my hand =( =(
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Feb 24, 2009 02:57
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mindphlux posted:I have a 97 328is that is black and beautiful which I have not driven for ~10 months because of moving to another country. What country are you in? If it's of the European persuasion you can get some pretty awesome presents for your car.
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Feb 24, 2009 04:19
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So here I was about 2 months go blabbin' my head off about almost having the funds to pull an E36 off the market. And suddenly, all the good ones VAMOOSED. Seriously, within 4 months the market went from sweet deals for 3k to $7.5k 98 318 autos with 200k miles. (Yes, i really did see this. Yes, he was 100 percent serious) I did find one interesting deal, however, not a 3. A Z3. (so yes, a 3 in a "I'm not quite gay enough for a miata mode). And that's no exaggeration, because it's the 96 1.(9?), aka basically a 318 gimp the little motor that could. So here's the good, paraphrased from the horse's mouth: quote:The engine has 142k miles on it, but had a complete rebuild at 123k, and a new clutch 5k miles ago. When the engine and clutch were done, I also replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, wires (IIRC)... I think that's it. All of that was just under 20k miles ago. Given that he's got the records for the major stuff and the carfax checks out, I talked him into doing the brakes if I pay in full cash, and I can probably talk him down to 5k. I also asked him about the common subframe issue and he said that he had it checked out and it is fine. Considering I"ll probably have to do the suspension bits (if it's anything like the normal E36 rubber bits), should I bite the bullet and do it? I saw the turbo options and at 3K to basically get it to a regular 325 E36 engine, and it doesn't seem worth it. Any cheap bolt-ons to get that 138hp up?
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Feb 24, 2009 05:22
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Don't take his word for it on the subframe. Don't believe a word he says until you look at the trunk floor and get underneath the rear. It's so expensive to fix.
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Feb 24, 2009 05:42
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I'm looking to jump into a E30 as a summer project to wrench on and am looking to meet a guy selling a '86 325es tomorrow. This will be my first BMW (outside my Mini, that's a gas-and-go for me with no non-oil/fluid maintenance thus far). I've seen lots of tips on how to keep the e30's running, but what should I look for in this car with a relatively short visual inspection? The car is very inexpensive, so I'm not expecting a tuned autocrosser, but what, if any issues outside the obvious should I be looking for?
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Feb 28, 2009 08:32
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Hiyme posted:I'm looking to jump into a E30 as a summer project to wrench on and am looking to meet a guy selling a '86 325es tomorrow. This will be my first BMW (outside my Mini, that's a gas-and-go for me with no non-oil/fluid maintenance thus far). I've seen lots of tips on how to keep the e30's running, but what should I look for in this car with a relatively short visual inspection? The car is very inexpensive, so I'm not expecting a tuned autocrosser, but what, if any issues outside the obvious should I be looking for? 325es is 121hp compared to the 325i which is 170hp. Other than that, rust mainly.
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Feb 28, 2009 15:05
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I would really hold out for a 318i or a 325i. Much more enjoyable to drive once you're finished with it, unless you're really worried about mileage.
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Feb 28, 2009 18:31
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Crustashio posted:I would really hold out for a 318i or a 325i. Much more enjoyable to drive once you're finished with it, unless you're really worried about mileage. case posted:325es is 121hp compared to the 325i which is 170hp. Other than that, rust mainly. I know the es isn't the most powerful e30 on the block, but all things considered (mainly the price) I think I'll be happy with it for the summer. It will be my first I6 engine to wrench on and I wont feel too bad "experimenting" with the car. I'm looking to get my hands on it short term, tool around with it a bit and get myself comfortable with e30's. I'm planning on kicking it off to my girlfriend's little brother at the end of the summer and, honestly, I'd be a lot more comfortable with him in a 121hp car than a 170. This fall through the winter, I don't doubt I'll be looking into a 318 or 325i.
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Feb 28, 2009 20:17
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I'm going to look at a '91 318is tomorrow about an hour away. Any big gotchas on these?
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Feb 28, 2009 23:48
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Oil leaks, oil leaks and a few more oil leaks. Oil pan hangs low, tends to find hard objects. Vacuum leaks are common too, due to an overcomplicated mess of hoses under the intake manifold. Profile gasketwill fail at some point but most cars had it fixed by now. Google it for more info. Same lovely coolant system problems common to all BMWs are present. Buy mine, I fixed all the problematic stuff already.
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Mar 1, 2009 00:00
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I would be happy to but you're on the wrong side of the country good luck though! This evidently just had a new head gasket put on, only problem is a dead battery according to owner.
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Mar 1, 2009 00:14
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