|
Grawl posted:Is there a safe way to share an external hard drive for two computers? I got a new one a few months ago, but the other one is still working fine. I was thinking about using one for gaming and the other for music/videos, but that'd have no use if there's not much on it. Two options: One - if the computers are networked through a Router or Switch, you can purchase a hard drive enclosure that has a CAT5 connector - most are referred to as a NAS, or Network Attached Storage. These can be expensive, but Newegg carries this for $130. Considering I spent $50 on my external enclosure, that's not too bad. The other option would be to build a small server - throw together a cheap small form factor computer, pop in a PCI networking card, and hook that puppy up to the router - good to go. Wouldn't even need a monitor, either. This is the first step in creating a Home Theater PC, which a lot of people have hooked to their TVs. Convenient, but can be quite a lot more expensive than that enclosure. Keep in mind that this computer would be running 24/7 - as such, maybe something else than Windows would be useful. Hope this helps! EDIT: Newegg told me something was NAS without it actually being NAS. Oops! Fixed link. Otacon fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Mar 4, 2009 |
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 04:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:03 |
|
|
I just realised that if I'm able to turn my computer into a media server which I can use to stream to my PS3, it should work for computers as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 04:22
|
|
|
less_than_one posted:Alternatively you could use a Linux live CD (such as Knoppix) to do this without having to tear out any drives... Grawl posted:I just realised that if I'm able to turn my computer into a media server which I can use to stream to my PS3, it should work for computers as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 01:44
|
|
|
ok I have two questions 1. Where do you look to determine how many platters a hard drive contains? I remember reading in the Recommended Parts Thread that it was somewhere on the drive's data sheet but I can't find that post again. 2. Given these two hard drives cost the same, which would be better? It basically comes down to 7200.12 and 16mb cache vs. 7200.11 and 32mb cache. DethMarine21 fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Mar 5, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 22:25
|
|
|
Saukkis posted:You should be able to use file sharing, a standard feature on Windows for decade+. Sometimes you forget about the simple solution.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 23:02
|
|
|
I have a couple questions: 1. What would be a good wireless router that works well with all three new gaming systems (PS3, Xbox360 and Wii)? 2. What would be the best way to setup a TV as a remote computer for my computer? I'd like to do it over the same wireless network if possible. Thanks, I'm generally pretty good with computers but I have very limited knowledge of wireless networks and networks in general.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 04:35
|
|
|
Smoking_Dragon posted:I have a couple questions: Any one that doesn't suck. Hit up the wireless router megathread for more information.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 05:04
|
|
|
Can I use my SMC EZ Connect USB/Ethernet Converter (2202, it's pretty old) to set up a network between my laptop and desktop? I want to transfer my music library to my laptop. If I can't, what can I do? My desktop doesn't have an Ethernet port (that's why I have the converter in the first place). EDIT: I know there are "crossover"-type USB setups, but is there anything easier/cheaper? Hurricane Jesus fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Mar 6, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 21:42
|
|
|
If you're connected to a wireless router you have a network set up. Just use it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 15:30
|
|
|
Sorry if this has been asked and answered already, I didn't feel like reading the entire thread. I've got an Acer TravelMate 2200 that I bought years ago, it runs OK for the most part but runs some newer stuff (Civilization IV) rather slowly. Running software like that, Windows XP occassionally throws up a warning that my virtual memory is running low. So I took the back panels off as much as I could, and discovered what looks to me like an unused RAM slot. Could one of you who knows about such things please recommend me some RAM I could buy and install? Presumably there is another slot somewhere that does actually contain RAM, but I didn't want to dig too far into my computer. I took this picture, I hope that it provides enough detail for diagnosis:  Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 04:55
|
|
|
Crucial says your laptop can support upto 1gb modules of PC2700 DDR ram. It says you either have 265 or 512 in their by default, so throwing another 1gb module in will definately help things along. Any 1GB PC2700 DDR SO-DIMM module from newegg or whatever should do you. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...pe=&srchInDesc=
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 12:32
|
|
|
What's a good voltage for overclocking an E8400 to 3.6ghz? My Gigabyte motherboard wants to adjust the voltage automatically, but it seems a little high to me (1.6) and might explain why the core temps are so much higher than what I've been seeing elsewhere.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 17:07
|
|
|
scuz posted:What's a good voltage for overclocking an E8400 to 3.6ghz? My Gigabyte motherboard wants to adjust the voltage automatically, but it seems a little high to me (1.6) and might explain why the core temps are so much higher than what I've been seeing elsewhere. 1.40-1.44, 1.6 will toast it
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 17:13
|
|
|
Srebrenica Surprise posted:1.40-1.44, 1.6 will toast it
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 17:21
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Presumably there is another slot somewhere that does actually contain RAM, but I didn't want to dig too far into my computer. You're looking at the other ram stick in that picture. The black memory chips are on the other face of that green PCB you're looking at in that picture.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 20:42
|
|
|
What's a good office use dual monitor card? We've been using the PNY Nvidia Quadro NVS 280 64 mb PCI but I get the impression that it's nearing end of cycle since it's getting a bit harder to get hold of lately. That and I'm seeing comparable pricing on 512 mb cards like the BFG GeForce 8400 GS 512mb PCIe. The problem is, I'm going to need to chuck these cards into machines that are exactly old enough to not have PCIe slots to support them (about 1/3 of my workstation base). I don't need 3d acceleration since we're not using vista, cad, or games in any appreciable way but PCI support would be good. (is AGP dead now?)
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 20:59
|
|
|
Kaso posted:Crucial says your laptop can support upto 1gb modules of PC2700 DDR ram. It says you either have 265 or 512 in their by default, so throwing another 1gb module in will definately help things along. Any 1GB PC2700 DDR SO-DIMM module from newegg or whatever should do you. Awesomeness, thanks! I let Crucial scan my system, they're saying I've got 256MB. Definately time for an upgrade. Sir Nigel posted:You're looking at the other ram stick in that picture. The black memory chips are on the other face of that green PCB you're looking at in that picture. Ah, that makes sense. I haven't poked around much inside laptops before, things are not located where I expected them to be. Thank you, hopefully I'll continue to avoid sticking a screwdriver through something important. edit: I just ordered a pair of 1gb modules from newegg. Yay! ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Mar 10, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 04:02
|
|
|
Sir Nigel posted:You're looking at the other ram stick in that picture. The black memory chips are on the other face of that green PCB you're looking at in that picture. I think you're wrong - that slot looks empty to me man... Look at the board behind it - thats the mainboard or at least a daughterboard of some nature, since it goes well around and beyond where the ram would in that slot. Plus, the clippies are sitting there empty. Plus, the stickers on it come up in google as the mainboard. Why would they label the ram with the motherboard numbers?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 07:23
|
|
|
Is there an overclocking thread I'm missing? I'm not sure if these questions should go here, but anyway; I'm running a phenom II 940 with ddr2 1066 ram. I was getting blue screens after a few minutes whenever I would try to play any game I installed to test it, so I lowered the memory speed to 800 and everything is fine. I never messed with the cpu voltage or multiplier or anything so maybe I was over stressing the memory? AM2+ cpus have the memory controller on the chip so there isn't really a FSB I can mess with. Basically, I'm asking how I can put my ram speed back to 1066mhz without causing problems. Since this is the first am2+ system I've messed with, I didn't want to go changing things before someone can say 'try this' or 'jesus gently caress don't do that' Other details, vista 64bit, 4gbs of ram, cpu is at stock 3.0ghz and motherboard is a foxconn A-79A-S. Pen Expers fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Mar 10, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 07:58
|
|
|
Sniep posted:I think you're wrong - that slot looks empty to me man... Look at the board behind it - thats the mainboard or at least a daughterboard of some nature, since it goes well around and beyond where the ram would in that slot. Plus, the clippies are sitting there empty. Huh, I had kinda thought it was the motherboard or something else big and green. The clippies you see are from the empty slot I've got - I know there is only one RAM module in this machine, but there are two slots, hence this shot of the empty slot. I looked for the clippies containing the actual in-place RAM module, without success. The fact that I stripped the head on one of the case screws months ago digging around the CD drive doesn't help my quest to uncover the RAM, or anything else inside my computer. Is it possible that two RAM slots would be located in distinctly different locations inside an ACER laptop? My work computer, a rather newer Lenovo, had both its RAM slots located almost on top of each other, approximately under the touchpad.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2009 04:53
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Huh, I had kinda thought it was the motherboard or something else big and green. The clippies you see are from the empty slot I've got - I know there is only one RAM module in this machine, but there are two slots, hence this shot of the empty slot. Could be that the other ram/stock ram that the laptop comes with is fixed, I.E. soldered onto the motherboard and unable to be removed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2009 06:50
|
|
|
I can't really find a Computer Mouse thread here in SH/SC, so I'll ask my mouse-related question here. I bought a Logitech V450 Nano mouse today, and though it does have a scroll wheel with the ability to push horizontally, I can't use those buttons (in Windows 7, anyway...) without installing Logitech's Sitepoint software. I don't like to get into the habit of installing third-party software for computer peripherals, so what I'm wondering is this: is there some way of telling Windows to register the left and right horizontal clicks on the scroll wheel to work as internet back and forward buttons (respectively) without installing third party software?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2009 15:08
|
|
|
I'm looking to get my first desktop after spending the past few years with only a Macbook. I love the keyboard on this thing, though; anybody know of a good chiclet-style keyboard (besides Apple's, since I'm getting a Windows machine)? EDIT: Apparently "chiclet" refers to a different kind of keyboard than what I'm thinking of. To clarify, I'm talking about this style: 
GameCube fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Mar 12, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2009 20:39
|
|
|
Does anyone have any recommendations for SATA RAID controllers? I'm building a storage array for work and will be using this enclosure and 8 of these HDs. The problem that I am having is that I am unfamiliar with server RAID controllers and I'm not really sure which controllers are good. I've noticed that the controllers with 8 SATA ports seem to range between $240-$700 and I don't quite know what differentiates a $240 RAID controller from a $700 RAID controller. We will likely be running XP on this machine due to legacy software issues if that makes a difference.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2009 22:55
|
|
|
Werthog posted:I'm looking to get my first desktop after spending the past few years with only a Macbook. I love the keyboard on this thing, though; anybody know of a good chiclet-style keyboard (besides Apple's, since I'm getting a Windows machine)? I don't wonder if the Apple keyboard wouldn't work on a Windows machine. Its just a USB keyboard. I mean, it works when you dualboot into a Windows OS on the newer Mac so I don't see why it shouldn't work in a vanilla Windows OS. You may lose functionality of the Command Key (windows might not 'see' or use it since it may be mapped as something other than what the Windows Key is normally mapped as) but the layout is the same. Do you know anyone with one of those keyboards? Borrow it and see if it works or if you have a laptop with Windows on it go to the apple store and ask if you can see if their keyboard works will a fully vanilla Windows OS.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2009 03:42
|
|
|
Sir Nigel posted:I don't wonder if the Apple keyboard wouldn't work on a Windows machine. Its just a USB keyboard. I mean, it works when you dualboot into a Windows OS on the newer Mac so I don't see why it shouldn't work in a vanilla Windows OS. You may lose functionality of the Command Key (windows might not 'see' or use it since it may be mapped as something other than what the Windows Key is normally mapped as) but the layout is the same. Do you know anyone with one of those keyboards? Borrow it and see if it works or if you have a laptop with Windows on it go to the apple store and ask if you can see if their keyboard works will a fully vanilla Windows OS. Yeah, I do know that'll work. I guess I just felt like my first PC ought to be free of the Apple taint. :P I might resort to that, though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2009 05:57
|
|
|
Sir Nigel posted:I don't wonder if the Apple keyboard wouldn't work on a Windows machine. Its just a USB keyboard. I mean, it works when you dualboot into a Windows OS on the newer Mac so I don't see why it shouldn't work in a vanilla Windows OS. You may lose functionality of the Command Key (windows might not 'see' or use it since it may be mapped as something other than what the Windows Key is normally mapped as) but the layout is the same. Do you know anyone with one of those keyboards? Borrow it and see if it works or if you have a laptop with Windows on it go to the apple store and ask if you can see if their keyboard works will a fully vanilla Windows OS. Mac keyboard does work fine on windows, i use one. Cmd maps to windows key, however there is no printscreen mapping. The symbols written on the keys might be wrong, but its not hard to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2009 06:46
|
|
|
Werthog posted:I'm looking to get my first desktop after spending the past few years with only a Macbook. I love the keyboard on this thing, though; anybody know of a good chiclet-style keyboard (besides Apple's, since I'm getting a Windows machine)? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823155003 This is the keyboard that i've used for years now and just replace when I wear it out with the same model. It's kinda hard to tell in the photo but the keys are laptop-style full size scissor switch keys, tactile but not full keyboard-stle keys.. At least they are perfect to me. Not quite the Mac style ones though, I don't think i've ever seen a KB that was just like the mac ones.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2009 07:19
|
|
|
Sniep posted:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823155003 Hmm... I was going to complain about it being a slimmed-down keyboard, but it does have all the keys, just in different places. I might go with this, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2009 16:52
|
|
|
After some bad planning on my part, the only place in my room I can now place my computer case is VERY close (I'm talking 10-15cm) to my sound system's sub woofer (a logitech z-680, if it tells you something). How bad an idea is this? Do I risk any damage to my computer, or should it be shielded enough so as to allow it to work properly? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2009 20:34
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Huh, I had kinda thought it was the motherboard or something else big and green. The clippies you see are from the empty slot I've got - I know there is only one RAM module in this machine, but there are two slots, hence this shot of the empty slot. It is possible that they are located distinct from one another. My mother's several year old HP laptop has one module easily accessible on the underside, and the other located on the topside, under the keyboard. WTF.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 17:19
|
|
|
I need some confirmation from you fine gentlemen. I just received my new Dell Studio 540, as well as a nice GeForce GFX 260 to stick inside of it, and a PCPower and Cooling replacement PSU to power the dang thing, and I ran into a little problem. The SATA0 and SATA1 connectors, and the respective cables plugged into them, on the motherboard are in just such a spot as to make it impossible to stick in this beast of a video card. The overlap is undeniable. There are, however, two additional SATA connectors right below the inaccessible ones that I could plug my hard drive and optical drive into that would allow the video card to slide into place happily. I'm 90% sure it doesn't matter which port you use, that the BIOS will let me boot from any old SATA port I feel like plugging things into, but I want to ask you fellas if this is true or not. If I need things plugged into the SATA ports sequentially I'm basically dicked on my sweet video card. Help me out. edit: Thanks Srebrenica Surprise. Deadline Wolf Run fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Mar 19, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 19:37
|
|
|
Yeah, you can use whatever ports you want. I also think you could just grab a right-angle SATA cable, those are typically less than a mm above the actual height of the SATA slots.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 19:40
|
|
|
Got a question I had a hard time wording correctly in google search. I finally decided to upgrade my storage capacity and found a cheap 640Gb drive to add to my existing 120GB drive. I used to have a smaller, faster Raptor drive where I stored all my important files and Windows. Well that died a while back and I ended up losing all those important files and had to reinstall Windows on my 120Gb drive. Well now my 120Gb drive has all my important files and I want to back this drive up so I won't lose all those files again. Is it possible to separate the 640Gb hard drive (partition?) so that 120 Gb's of the 640Gb drive is only used as a backup of my 120Gb drive? Then the rest of the 640 Gb (~500Gb's left) could be used for all of my frivolous memory needs...?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 20:11
|
|
|
Yes, partition off 120 plus a little over GB, get Norton Ghost or whatever, tell it to schedule backups to that "drive" (really a partition).
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 20:36
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:After some bad planning on my part, the only place in my room I can now place my computer case is VERY close (I'm talking 10-15cm) to my sound system's sub woofer (a logitech z-680, if it tells you something).
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 23:09
|
|
|
This is part hardware part software, so I've also posted it in the Windows Megathread: Last night I decided to reboot my computer for the first time in a couple of weeks and for some reason Vista (64-bit Ultimate if it matters) wouldn't log me in. Usually I have it set to save password and log in automatically but now it's popping up with invalid password. I tried every password possible and a few that weren't, but it's just not letting me log in. I restarted the PC hoping to get into Safe Mode but suddenly the computer wasn't even able to boot up properly - it kept restarting while on the screen with the motherboard logo (POST I think?). For the purposes of troubleshooting, I disconnected all hdds and optical drives. No effect. I removed all the RAM, and verified the motherboard was registering that the RAM wasn't there. I put 2 modules back in, and suddenly it could boot up fine. I then put the other 2 modules back in as well just to confirm that was the problem... but it still booted up fine. So now I don't know what the hell is going on and where the fault lies. I booted off the Vista disc and tried to perform a repair (thinking Windows might have corrupted) but it couldn't find a partition with Vista installed. I'd reconnected all the hdds and it was booting into Vista again at this point, so I'm not sure why it couldn't detect the partition. Does anyone have any advice?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2009 23:54
|
|
|
Download Gparted http://gparted.sourceforge.net/ This will let you see if linux can find your partitions. You need to be able to boot it to a cd though. Also, the Vista repair tool can be a bit ambiguous. If it can't find a windows install, that is ok, tell it to do a full repair thing anyway, it can usually figure out what is up after a restart or two. ymmv
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2009 02:59
|
|
|
Jago posted:Download Gparted http://gparted.sourceforge.net/ They offer a USB bootable version as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2009 03:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:03 |
|
|
Jago posted:Download Gparted http://gparted.sourceforge.net/ Thanks for the info. I managed to get that side of things sorted out before I checked in here for a reply, but I appreciate it nonetheless.  I have no idea what to make of the hardware problems though. I ran both Burn In Test and Memtest86+, but neither picked up a single problem with the RAM. The system is back to normal, so I guess I'll just keep an eye on it and see if the problem repeats itself.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2009 08:35
|
|