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Slothophile posted:This is a more legitimate use, but again if this is your regular commute can you not just have one of those big sealable drinks containers filled with the beverage of your choice? I do on occasion. I did, find, however, that it get's to be a bit bothersome undoing the cap with one hand while driving. I have a couple of the sports bottle types too, with the stopper you can pull open with your teeth, and I use those too. But I don't always carry those to work, and when I do, I'm not always able to fill them for the trip home, which is usually the hottest part of the day once it warms up around here... Plus, when my wife and I go riding around, she doesn't appreciate it when I hand her a bottle and say "hold this" or just sit it in her lap 
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Mar 10, 2009 20:21
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I've been looking for a toy car to screw around with once I get my tax returns and I've been concentrating on something small, durable, cheap (<5k), and relatively easy to work on. Swapped Civics, E30s, Datsun Z cars, and Miatas are on the list but I think the Miata is going to give me the best bang for my buck. However, I'd like a bit of a sanity check from the experts. I'm planning on splitting DD duties (75 miles a day or so) with my other car, possibly going FI over next winter, playing other games (6-speed swap maybe) as time and budget allow. Given that and the fact that I live in MA (emissions testing) I'm leaning towards a 94-95 NA as my first choice since it has OBD-I, the 1.8 and a better diff than the 1.6l from what I've read. Is that an appropriate choice? If I can't get an NA in that range, am I better off going with an earlier NA or an early NB? The NBs concern me because of the OBD-II and dealing with getting it registered. Is a 1.8l swap into a 1.6l car worth the bother? Also, cupholders. Check http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/ It's pricey,but put it on the floor and it's good to go and stays out of the way. I got one for x-mas a few years ago and it's followed me through 3 cars. They list models but they seem pretty generic. The same one has fit and E36, an E39, and now a GTO. mungtor fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Mar 11, 2009 |
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Mar 11, 2009 20:28
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mungtor posted:If I can't get an NA in that range, am I better off going with an earlier NA or an early NB? The NBs concern me because of the OBD-II and dealing with getting it registered. Is a 1.8l swap into a 1.6l car worth the bother? If you're gonna go FI within a year, definitely not worth swapping a 1.8 in. I'm surprised that you're that wary of ODBII/post 1995 cars. A car in good condition should pass emissions no problem. I sold a guy a stock 1990, and he got noticeable butt-dyno gains by the trio of cone air filter, tweaked RX-7 MAP sensor, and setting timing to 14 degrees. If I'd known that it would, I might have done the same. Does anyone have those basic mods and appreciate them? If so, that would be a cheap way to get a bit of extra kick out of the 1.6 before you turbo it.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:43
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You're right about the 94s and 95s being popular since they have the bigger 1.8L engine and the torsen, but they also have bigger brakes. OBD-II shouldn't be that much of a hassle, though, so don't count out any attractive looking 99 and 00s. Just look for a clean Miata, and you'll wind up with a winner regardless of the year.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:44
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If the price difference is roughly linear going from 1.6 to 1.8 cars then go with the 1.8. The differential in the 1.6 is fairly weak and will need to be replaced soon after 150hp or a clutch upgrade. It also doesn't like clutch drops at all. I'm trying to source one and an rx7 clutch LSD and I'll be lucky to get it all done for under 1000. That's for all the parts alone, doing the work myself. It's kinda nuts.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:48
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Dragon's-Maw posted:I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT The price is linear because the older the car is, the older it is. If you have a 1.6 with the VLSD, it's now an open differential. 100 NECKBREAKING HP (and ft-lbs of torque) BREAK THE poo poo OUT OF THE CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION DUDEMANBRO. If you dump the clutch with an open diff, you'll spin one wheel.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:54
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kimbo305 posted:If you're gonna go FI within a year, definitely not worth swapping a 1.8 in. I'm surprised that you're that wary of ODBII/post 1995 cars. A car in good condition should pass emissions no problem. It's more a matter of getting OBD-II and a FI setup to work together. Last time I had a CE light in an OBD-II car it had to be off for something like 10 drive cycles to clear from the ECU before I could get an inspection sticker. I'm pretty sure that OBD-I cars don't even get a tailpipe sniffer any more. I was also thinking that the 1.8l would be better to go FI on as well since displacement is always good. I might put off the FI in favor of a swap depending on finances and ambition. I'm just trying to future-proof even though I don't have completely solid plans. Phone posted:Just look for a clean Miata, and you'll wind up with a winner regardless of the year. Good enough then. I'll try to read up on OBD-II and engine mods and what I can get away with. I'd like to do this while it's not the peak of the buying season, but we'll see what Craigslist comes up with.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:55
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mungtor posted:It's more a matter of getting OBD-II and a FI setup to work together. Last time I had a CE light in an OBD-II car it had to be off for something like 10 drive cycles to clear from the ECU before I could get an inspection sticker. I'm pretty sure that OBD-I cars don't even get a tailpipe sniffer any more. Yes, 1995 and earlier cars only get the exhaust inspected for physical damage / leaks. I thought with the Begi kits (the only ones worth getting?) that you used a full replacement engine management system.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:58
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Dragon's-Maw posted:The differential in the 1.6 is fairly weak and will need to be replaced soon after 150hp or a clutch upgrade. kimbo305 posted:I thought with the Begi kits (the only ones worth getting?) that you used a full replacement engine management system.
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Mar 11, 2009 21:13
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The VLSD on my '92 works well enough to still spin both tires in the snow just fine at 80k. It really does help the snow performance quite a bit.
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Mar 11, 2009 21:49
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kimbo305 posted:I thought with the Begi kits (the only ones worth getting?) that you used a full replacement engine management system. destructo posted:Nah, the lower kits use a FPR. Flyin' Miata kits have piggy-back boxes which feed the ECU, BEGI can replace everything with a Xede (which I know nothing about) and I think somebody else has something with a name like Hydra. And... when I was thinking FI I was thinking of going my own way with a Megasquirt when I finally got around to it. I've played with some of the Electromotive boxes in the past (Tec-II) and it was about the coolest thing I'd ever touched at that point. I'm not shelling out for a Tec3, but I think it would be cool to at least try on my own.
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Mar 11, 2009 22:01
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The CARB legal BEGi kit for the 1.8 uses an FPR. I actually had this setup w/ a GT2554, but have since gone to Megasquirt. BEGi's Xede solution is still a piggyback, but it's nothing to scoff at. I believe it has more resolution/table-space than the Megasquirt, but it also doesn't have a MAP sensor, so it doesn't know how much boost there is. It only knows "there is boost" ... vs the MS which lets you tune the entire fuel and spark maps based on MAP.
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Mar 11, 2009 22:11
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So I have gone back to mk1 mr2's and I think its time for the miata to go. Although me and my brother are getting a place with a good sized garage, so its tempting to keep it and turbo or maybe even cram a v8 in it.... So I figured I'd put it out to some local seattle goons if anyone out there is looking for a miata. Its a '93 white, ~18xk miles, good softop, decent rims and a new timing belt/waterpump/seals and all sorts of stuff was just done in December. Theres a bit of damage to the front end thanks to the mazda curse, although its all cosmetic. I think I have pics somewhere, but I am not sure where. I was hoping to get ~$2k for it, so if anyone here is interested, drop me a email damiancurry at gmail
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Mar 12, 2009 01:49
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Phone posted:The price is linear because the older the car is, the older it is. If you have a 1.6 with the VLSD, it's now an open differential. 100 NECKBREAKING HP (and ft-lbs of torque) BREAK THE poo poo OUT OF THE CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION DUDEMANBRO. If you dump the clutch with an open diff, you'll spin one wheel. I'm in Vancouver where we have crazy prices for crazy reasons. 90-93 can be had for 3-4k anytime. 94-95 and suddenly people want 6k *minimum*, usually 7 or 8. As for the diff I was referring to going FI, the 6" diffs break under much lower power levels than the 7" from 94 up, no I don't have proof and no I don't mean that it's loving instant. It's one of those things that goes on the list as you start turning up the boost so if the price difference in your area isn't insane like mine than it's worth it to go for the 94+ models. Are you actually going to say that I'm wrong on that? destructo posted:Yes, the 1.8 diff is stronger, but dumping out retarded blanket statements like X needs to be replaced after X HORSEPOWERS is stupid. Fine. They're just not as good then and I'd worry about mine. How about 'you have cheaper options with a 1.8 than a 1.6 for later upgrades'? It's really just a reflection of my local market. Me: Ring ring Junkyard: Hi Me: I want a differential from a 94+ miata Junkyard: That'll be $400 for an open, $800 for torsen. Me: Does that include half-shafts and a driveshaft? Junkyard: No. Me: I'm in the wrong business. Edit: Searching miataturbo.net suggests 200hp or so before people get nervous/hear strange noises, so long as you baby it a bit. Again, unqualified and out of my rear end. Miata.nets' garage section suggests that it can fail under stock power. Dragon's-Maw fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Mar 12, 2009 |
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Mar 12, 2009 02:33
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That's cheaper than it is here, we pay about that in American dollars. But yeah, like you said, you can break them under stock power if you're abusive enough.
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Mar 12, 2009 02:41
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Prices of Miatas (ballpark): 1990: 2.5k 1991: 3k 1992: 3-3.5k 1993: 3.5-4k 1994: 4k-5k 1995: 4k-5k 1996: 5k-6k 1997: 5k-7k 1999: 6k-8k See a pattern? Also, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential#Viscous
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Mar 12, 2009 02:48
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Prices of NA Miatas in good condition with low miles 1990 - $5000 1991 - $5000 1992 - $5000 1993 - $5000 1994 - $5000 1995 - $5000 1996 - $5000 1997 - $5000
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Mar 12, 2009 03:47
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Don't forget to automatically add at least $1k regardless of condition if it's a M, especially so if it's a '95M.
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Mar 12, 2009 04:17
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Jesus, I want to be where you are, those prices with or without hardtop? I got my 90 with HT for 2.5 and felt like a thief in the night. Crank was about to bite it so power was way down which is why I managed to get it in that range. The owner thought it was going to just up and die any day. For mungtor though, if the difference between a 90-93 and 94-95 is less than 1000 I'd spring for the 94. The short list of upgraded parts is the diff, higher displacement with no real penalty in economy and bigger brakes. I'm not sure how to spot smaller things though like the difference between an open and torsen visually. Anything with power windows is a B or C package. If I remember right R packages' are guaranteed to have the torsen but I can't find anything to quote for it. The link from miata.nets' garage is vague on that. Stock hardtops are supposed to have defroster windows as well. Oh and the stock wheels are lighter. 94 retains the real oil pressure gauge as opposed to 95s' dummy light.
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Mar 12, 2009 10:31
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So, about 3 years ago, I posted a thread where I bought my first Miata. I was absolutely in love with it, but just about a year ago, I stupidly totalled it. You know how when your dog dies, you don't want another dog? I've been carless, walking to work for a year now, and I'm getting tired of it. I loved my Miata because it was tiny, nimble, and fun. (For reference, it was a '97) However, I was always disappointed with the lack of power. I'm seriously thinking about saving up the cash to buy another Miata, but only if I'm going to be able to get a little more jump off the line. To this extent, my question is how much difference a turbo REALLY makes in, say, a late NA like my former car, or in an NB. What's the most cost-effective kit, is it safe to buy a used ebay turbo, and would it really be worth it? I would be working with a pretty tight budget, so that's an issue. If I put an upper limit total at $6000, is it doable? Thanks.
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Mar 12, 2009 16:19
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Huge difference.. absolutely huge. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z25Ic1AKZgQ&feature=channel_page Get a 94 so you don't have to worry about the rear, drop $2.5K into a BEGI kit and you're at 180 at the wheels. You can DIY for cheaper, easily, but that's up to you.. check up at miataturbo.net for that. Ebay turbo kits are poo poo, end of story.
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Mar 12, 2009 16:24
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Also, a cost effective approach can be to use BEGi's manifold and downpipe and then use ebay for the rest of your parts... however you won't get the CARB EO number if you need that. Also you'd need to know what you're doing. I'm pretty sure Savington did something like this (though I'm not sure what besides his DP is from BEGi)
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Mar 12, 2009 17:19
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I'm looking for a daily driver two seater, and I've narrowed it down to a Miata or an Insight. I can't really figure out any differences, both have little to no storage room and room for two.
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Mar 12, 2009 19:37
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Triikan posted:I'm looking for a daily driver two seater, and I've narrowed it down to a Miata or an Insight. I can't really figure out any differences, both have little to no storage room and room for two. One is fun to drive, the other will bore you to death.
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Mar 12, 2009 19:53
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Triikan posted:I'm looking for a daily driver two seater, and I've narrowed it down to a Miata or an Insight. I can't really figure out any differences, both have little to no storage room and room for two. This has to be a BS post. How about that one is a true sports car vs the other being an eco-smug-mobile. Or one is RWD, while the other is FWD. Roadster, Hatch. Also how about the fact that one is a hybrid?
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Mar 12, 2009 19:54
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Triikan posted:I'm looking for a daily driver two seater, and I've narrowed it down to a Miata or an Insight. I can't really figure out any differences, both have little to no storage room and room for two. If you can't tell the difference between a Miata and an Insight, buy the Insight because the Miata's fuel economy will disappoint you.
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Mar 12, 2009 20:53
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FireTora posted:One is fun to drive, the other will bore you to death. At least the Insight has a good chance of being a Manual. http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/530/First_150_0_mpg_segment_in_a_Honda_Insight.jpg Its probably the best hybrid I've ever seen. Small, light, manual transmission. I'm pretty sure it has independent suspension too. (It sorta sucks as a hybrid too as it's not a two mode)
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Mar 12, 2009 21:11
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Peter Egan said the Honda Insight was one of the funnest cars he had ever driven.
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Mar 13, 2009 00:12
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destructo: Just put down 308.98 big ones down for a Bell Sport and an extra shield (comes with a free bag).
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Mar 13, 2009 00:14
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mars posted:one is a true sports car 
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Mar 13, 2009 01:02
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mars posted:This has to be a BS post. Fakepost? The Miata isn't a sports car, the Insight has almost no smugness connotation surrounding it, there's nothing wrong with FWD, and hatches kick rear end. The Insight is also an absolute BLAST to drive on many levels. They're also surprisingly quick.* For example; Insight with some better tires http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jfz3J5b5hGM e: *clarity. I'm not saying they're fast, but they're a lot quicker than one would think. They're light and aerodynamic, which means the ~83 hp manages to accomplish a whole lot more than you'd expect. e:VVV It's low, RWD, handles very well, has 2 doors and seats two, but it's not exactly a performance automobile. Still, it's supposed to be a modern reliable car that's everything a british sports car should be. I will admit it's a sports car. I was being a dick and trying to make the Insight seem more awesome because I secretly love them  Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Mar 13, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 01:15
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Triikan posted:Hypnolobster posted:The Miata isn't a sports car, This I've got to hear. Please, enlighten me how the Miata, one of the purest roadsters since old British roadsters of yore, isn't a sports car. I mean, I understand that the Miata is a practical, comfortable, FWD car that can seat 4 + cargo, but I'd like to hear your reasons. Guinness fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Mar 13, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 02:08
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Guinness posted:This I've got to hear. Please, enlighten me how the Miata, one of the purest roadsters since old British roadsters of yore, isn't a sports car. The Insight is a 2 seater and weighs less than a Miata by several Hundred pounds (like 300).
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Mar 13, 2009 09:01
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Hypnolobster posted:Fakepost? The Miata isn't a sports car, the Insight has almost no smugness connotation surrounding it, there's nothing wrong with FWD, and hatches kick rear end. Never said there was anything wrong with fwd/hatch, just pointed them out as obvious differences from the miata. Hypnolobster posted:e:VVV It's low, RWD, handles very well, has 2 doors and seats two, but it's not exactly a performance automobile. Still, it's supposed to be a modern reliable car that's everything a british sports car should be. I will admit it's a sports car. I was being a dick and trying to make the Insight seem more awesome because I secretly love them Sure miata is not fast, but if you consider weight/weight distribution, suspension, cabin noise, etc, I think the miata is a sports car. It makes compromises that I wouldn't want in some other car. I wouldn't want that much noise in car that didn't handle the way it does. PS: I like the insight too, for what it is. It's certainly my favorite hybrid out there, and only one I would consider owning if I had to drive far every day. All I'm saying is that it's not exactly indistinguishable from a miata.
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Mar 13, 2009 14:23
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So my '99 has rust on the driver-side rocker panel just beneath the door; I hadn't noticed it until today (I've owned the car since last August). It's bubbling up under the paint, and the bubbles are large enough that I'm sure I'd find it's eaten through at spots. Can I cut this out, weld a plate in, and repaint? Would bondo be a better idea? I can weld (though I've never used a cutting torch), so the former idea wouldn't be horrid, so long as I can get ahold of a welder (which shouldn't be too bad). EDIT: According to Miata.net, it appears I'd use an angle grinder to get the bad part out. This might be doable at my current skill level; I'll ask my welding teacher (night courses woo!) if he doesn't mind my using his welder for extra-curricular activity... George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Mar 13, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 22:36
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Heh I just averaged 25MPG on the highway over three hours. Nothin' like a leisurely cruise at 5000rpm 
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Mar 14, 2009 04:59
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Some human being in a jacked up F150 merged into me last Sunday some i'm on the market for another Miata. Looking for a 94-97 Popular equipment package Miata. preferably triple black.
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Mar 14, 2009 06:00
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What's a good replacement headlight bulb for my 2000? I don't know what ones are in there now, but they're absolutely terrible at night or in the rain. One of them just burnt out so I'm gonna need them fairly soon. I've tried to find stuff on M.net but they just keep talking about Sylvania SilverStars and how they go out every 10 minutes or have lasted since the day the light bulb was invented.
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Mar 15, 2009 08:17
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I swear this came from a Miata   217whp/192wtq, 15.5psi tapering to 11psi at redline.
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Mar 15, 2009 08:29
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Savington posted:I swear this came from a Miata I want that under my hood. I hate you.
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Mar 15, 2009 09:05
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