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Phone posted:I need a heat gun. Is the HF good enough for peeling off vinyl stripes? I have heard nothing but BAD things about the HF orange heat gun. Apparently its one of the stay away from things.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:28
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RealKyleH posted:I have heard nothing but BAD things about the HF orange heat gun. Apparently its one of the stay away from things. Mine works fine, in that I used it 3 times to heat some shrink wrap and then it sits on the shelf and makes me not have to buy a more expensive one. If you are just using it for a little bit, then its fine.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:43
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From this thread:Demie posted:
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Mar 13, 2009 23:46
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No falling apart yet, I will report back if it does when I try to use it to strip some furniture.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:59
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I haven't had a problem with my HF orange heat gun, either... puts out a lot of heat and has served me well. Sounds like it's going to fall apart at any minute, but it keeps soldiering on.
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Mar 14, 2009 00:25
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EVERYWHERE 
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RealKyleH posted:I have heard nothing but BAD things about the HF orange heat gun. Apparently its one of the stay away from things. What do you suggest?
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Mar 14, 2009 02:15
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Phone posted:What do you suggest? I don't really know, the only time I've needed a heat gun was to remove sound deadening and I borrowed a friends a few years ago so I don't remember the brand.
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Mar 14, 2009 02:21
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Phone posted:What do you suggest? If it's for heatshrink there's always the side (shroud) of a soldering iron. I want one too and I'm scared of the HF one for reasons stated.
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Mar 14, 2009 02:43
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Oh if it's for heat shrink I just use a lighter.
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Mar 14, 2009 02:44
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RealKyleH posted:Oh if it's for heat shrink I just use a lighter. I make OE's cry with my harnesses, and I use a lighter for 99% of it.
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Mar 14, 2009 04:01
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I've had a few heat guns. one was almost $100, another was $70, and my last one was $10 (HF). The only difference I've noticed is that that cheapo $10 unit only has 2 heat settings (not variable). A lighter or soldering iron work in a pinch, but the heat gun always gets better results.
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Mar 14, 2009 05:02
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It's to remove vinyl stripes.
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Mar 14, 2009 05:19
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Just used my HF A/C manifold for the first time. Word to the wise, it doesn't come with what you need to puncture the cans.
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Mar 14, 2009 05:36
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Can you guys recommend me a brand of anti-seize? I'm about to put some new wheels on and I'd like for them not to get stuck on like the current ones are  Also, is PB Blaster the best stuff for taking out stubborn poo poo?
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Mar 14, 2009 05:40
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Kroil has been recommended before. I use deep creep by seafoam because I can go to the store and buy another can in 5 minutes.
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Mar 14, 2009 05:47
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Pissingintowind posted:Can you guys recommend me a brand of anti-seize? I'm about to put some new wheels on and I'd like for them not to get stuck on like the current ones are PB blaster works great. I'll use Seafoam if I run out of PB blaster. I use the spray on white lube (I think its called lithium grease) for wheel threads.
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Mar 14, 2009 06:07
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RealKyleH posted:PB blaster works great. I'll use Seafoam if I run out of PB blaster. I use the spray on white lube (I think its called lithium grease) for wheel threads. Okay, so PB Blaster sounds good for working poo poo that is already stuck loose. It seems like the Deep Creep and Kroil are for the same purpose, so I'll just grab whatever they have at AutoZone. When I was asking about anti-seize, I meant along the lines of lithium grease or something I can spray onto the wheel hub in advance, rather than something I can use when things are already stuck together. Is there a specific brand of lithium grease I should look for, or is it all the same?
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Mar 14, 2009 06:25
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Putting any of them on there will make your threads last a long time.
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Mar 14, 2009 07:07
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hippynerd posted:I've had a few heat guns. one was almost $100, another was $70, and my last one was $10 (HF). The only difference I've noticed is that that cheapo $10 unit only has 2 heat settings (not variable). I totally agree with this. Durability seems to have little to do with initial price, though you can usually order replacement elements for the more expensive ones.
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Mar 15, 2009 06:55
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Pissingintowind posted:When I was asking about anti-seize, I meant along the lines of lithium grease or something I can spray onto the wheel hub in advance, rather than something I can use when things are already stuck together. Is there a specific brand of lithium grease I should look for, or is it all the same?
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Mar 15, 2009 12:07
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InitialDave posted:Loctite do little "lipsticks" of their popular compounds. These are some of the best things ever. They can be tough to find, though. I first found these lipsticks a few years ago at Summit Racing's HQ... I got one for everyone I know that works on cars. I lost mine in my move a while back and last week I went out locally to find another. After Autozone, Advance and a couple local stores didn't have it, I ended up getting one of the yucky jugs of Neversieze to use on lug nuts. It's not nearly as nice as the sticks.
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Mar 15, 2009 13:20
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Don't know if anyone mentioned it, but anti-seize on threads does gently caress up the reading of a torque wrench. There is a correction table out there, but you need to know the grade of steel or whatever metal they're using because you will overtorque them since anti-seize allows the threads to turn into each other with less friction. I think that's how it goes. Also, loctite anti seize in the gray bottle is good stuff. Copper grade is good too.
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Mar 15, 2009 21:22
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Who are these people that correctly torque wheels every time? 
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Mar 15, 2009 21:33
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Yeah, I just chuck a 21MM on to the trusty 1/2" impact wrench and torque it till it stops.
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Mar 15, 2009 21:45
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I just put everything I have into a 1/2 drive ratchet. And check it the next time the vehicle makes it near the toolbox. Never an issue, and the goddamn things are never break poo poo tight.
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Mar 15, 2009 22:01
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Chauncey posted:Don't know if anyone mentioned it, but anti-seize on threads does gently caress up the reading of a torque wrench. There is a correction table out there, but you need to know the grade of steel or whatever metal they're using because you will overtorque them since anti-seize allows the threads to turn into each other with less friction. This is true, but it's not a huge deal. You only need a tiny little bit of antisieze on lugs (or at least that's how I've always done it). You'll get some variance just from spraying Blaster on the lugs to unstick them, or rust, whatever. e: My family has had the same bottle of grey loctite antisieze for a long time. It's awesome stuff. Absolutely required when fixing tractors and pretty much any farm equipment. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Mar 15, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 22:39
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RealKyleH posted:Who are these people that correctly torque wheels every time? My car has aluminum lugnuts, they feel like plastic in your hands. 85ft-lb of torque for each one. It says in the service manual explicitily "DO NOT USE WITH AN AIR WRENCH EVER" and immediately after has the correct procedure for removing sheared off lugnuts.
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Mar 16, 2009 00:43
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Korwen posted:My car has aluminum lugnuts, they feel like plastic in your hands. 85ft-lb of torque for each one. It says in the service manual explicitily "DO NOT USE WITH AN AIR WRENCH EVER" and immediately after has the correct procedure for removing sheared off lugnuts. Porsche? I remember running across a few 944s that had Al lugnuts. I just installed one of these and I'm a little confused as to what conditions would activate it. Also, assuming that it's purging out the condensate can I just leave the tank charged up? Kynetx fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Mar 16, 2009 |
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Mar 16, 2009 00:53
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Just wanted to clarify that I use the elbow torque wrench every time I take off and put off wheels. But there seem to be an abundance of lugnut-torquing peoples on this board, and well, it IS true that anti seize fucks up a reading, even if it doesn't much matter.
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Mar 16, 2009 03:08
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I need to do the fluid on my differentials on my Subaru. Some idiot loctited the bolts and there's not enough room for a cheater or breaker under there when it's jacked up. Any suggestions, short of an impact/air wrench, which I don't have?
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Mar 16, 2009 03:58
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box/combo wrench + hammer. or socket drive with pipe slid over the handle for leverage.
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Mar 16, 2009 04:05
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Propane torch on the bolts for long enough will goo the loctite and allow the bolts to come out.
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Mar 16, 2009 04:24
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Kynetx posted:Yeah, I just chuck a 21MM on to the trusty 1/2" impact wrench and torque it till it stops. hippynerd posted:box/combo wrench + hammer.  . But definitely use a box-end wrench, don't use a ratchet 'til it's loose. My 1/2" Craftsman ratchet makes funny noises, and my 3/8" only catches about half the time now. I really need to take them to the store and get them swapped out/get repair kits.
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Mar 16, 2009 07:52
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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 An air belt sander. Really Harbor Freight? What could you ever need this for?
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Mar 16, 2009 13:43
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Delivery McGee posted:I stand on the ratchet handle to torque lugnuts. It's a foot long and I weigh 130 pounds, so that's about right, innit? My cheap clicky torque wrench seems to agree, anyway. (I drive old Fords, so the spec is 100 ft-lb.) HF has a 4 lb drilling hammer, too. I used it for basically the same purpose. No room to get anything useful behind a brake caliper bracket. A nice concussive slap breaks rust or loctite with the quickness.
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Mar 16, 2009 14:55
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Any recommendations for a 3/8 air ratchet? My HF one sticks from time to time and I'm starting to get irritated with it. It's a tool I get a lot of use out of. Hell, I'm fixing a couch and it was handy for that, if you can believe it.
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Mar 16, 2009 15:03
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Kynetx posted:Any recommendations for a 3/8 air ratchet? My HF one sticks from time to time and I'm starting to get irritated with it. It's a tool I get a lot of use out of. Hell, I'm fixing a couch and it was handy for that, if you can believe it. I'm happy with my C-H one. It's the next step up from HF in the progression of Chinese air tools. It's pretty much a linear progression in terms of price. Pay more, get more. The C-H is a decent compromise in the light duty use that I require of it.
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Mar 16, 2009 15:06
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RealKyleH posted:
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Mar 16, 2009 15:11
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grover posted:I'm sure it comes in really handy for removing VINs and engine serials from those hard-to-reach spots. That's what dremels are for. Kynetx posted:Any recommendations for a 3/8 air ratchet? My HF one sticks from time to time and I'm starting to get irritated with it. It's a tool I get a lot of use out of. Hell, I'm fixing a couch and it was handy for that, if you can believe it. I am sure you know this if its getting unstuck but just in case, WD40 is a cure all for air tools. Especially sticky air ratchets.
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Mar 16, 2009 15:17
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RealKyleH posted:I am sure you know this if its getting unstuck but just in case, WD40 is a cure all for air tools. Especially sticky air ratchets. Wow, I never would have thought of this. So in the end, moisture is the problem? I've been somewhat liberal with the air tool oil lately hoping that it would fix the problem.
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Mar 16, 2009 15:47
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