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How hard is it to reseal a window on a volvo 240 wagon? My rear hatch window came loose from my subwoofer so i need to reattach it 
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Mar 14, 2009 08:23
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| # ? May 28, 2024 16:21 |
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I'm so friggin' mad. I just wasted an entire day! I bought a used Iceman cold air intake for my car. They were the best intakes made for my car. However, they've been out of business for years so a used one is hard to come by. Iceman intakes are made out of plastic as opposed to aluminum because metals conduct more heat. Anyways, the original intake color was yellow and the previous owner decided to pain over it with blue. My car is red, so I want to paint it red. I woke up today and took a trip to AutoZone. Bought a 60 grit sandpaper block, a 320 grit sandpaper block, some paint thinner, some plastic tacking agent spray and some heat resistant red paint. So, I sanded down the intake, went over it with the finer sandpaper to smooth it out and wiped off a good amount of dirt and loose blue paint with the paint thinner. I took the smallest section of the intake outside to hit it up with the tacking agent and the paint to see how it looks. So, I sprayed on a couple layers of the plastic tacking agent so the paint will stick to the plastic intake. Then I sprayed it with the paint. I noticed that the paint wasn't painting over the intake, but more like it was applying a red metallic effect to the existing yellow and blue color. Then I read the bottle and it said it was for applying a red metallic finish over an existing metal surface! I'm retarded. I was standing in AutoZone for like 20 minutes reading the back of spray cans. Guess I missed that part. Now I need to go back tomorrow and grab some more paint. What kind of paint do I need to finish the job correctly? I think what I need is the high temp engine enamel Dupli-Color paint, but I'm not sure now. What do you guys think?
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Mar 14, 2009 21:34
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Where is the idle screw on a 1984 4 cylinder Nissan Pickup?
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Mar 14, 2009 22:06
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I'm so friggin' mad. I just wasted an entire day! I'm not so hot on the cosmetic thing, but I do want to ask why you would be considering hi temp paint on a cold air intake? What sort of external temperatures would you expect to see on its surface?
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Mar 15, 2009 01:04
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I'm not too mechanically inclined, so I was just going by the instructions the previous owner gave me in terms of painting it. On second thought, I guess a high temp paint might not be necessary at all. I'm going to head back to AutoZone tomorrow to grab some more Dupli-Color paint. Should I just grab the break caliper paint or what? I decided to keep the red metallic effect paint I bought by mistake to go over the red paint I'm going to buy tomorrow because I like how it looks. So it's going to be intake --> Dupli-Color Adhesion Promotor --> red Dupli-Color paint of some kind ???? --> red Dupli-Color Metalcast
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Mar 15, 2009 01:54
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I went to go bleed my brakes and clutch the other day with my spanking new Motive Bleeder. I start on the rear-right and it works like a champ. Quick and easy bleed. I get to the rear-left, and find my bleed screw valve had been partially stripped and was frozen to the caliper. I went ahead and finished bleeding the rest of the system, but how the hell do I extract a brass bleed valve that's both stripped and frozen to the caliper? I imagine the answer involves heat and vice-grips. Also, where do I find a bleed valve for a 2000 VW Golf TDI? I have failed at Google.
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Mar 15, 2009 05:43
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Looking to buy a SUV, looked into the 09 Hummer H3 and at a local dealership here in Tampa and the cash rebate on it is around $9,500! I don't mind the gas mileage it gets since I don't travel far but with $3k in my pocket to put down, plus the rebate on a truck with a MSRP of $36,705 with plenty of options doesn't sound bad. How bad of a shape is Hummer right now? Since GM is thinking twice about the brand do I have more bargaining power at the dealership or is it just another day on the lot?
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Mar 15, 2009 06:39
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The H3 sucks.
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Mar 15, 2009 06:43
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nm posted:The H3 sucks.  Care to elaborate a little?
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Mar 15, 2009 07:00
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I have poor boys SR2.5, do I need to use a finer polish before applying Tech Wax? I need to get my new 2002 WRX inspected and it has a bunch of baby scratches in it that I bet I could get out with a few hours holding my porter cable.
---------------- AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 04:47 on May 18, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 07:15
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Choada Boy posted:
A 4-door wrangler with a roof that isn't as capable costing much more.
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Mar 15, 2009 08:19
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I'm not too mechanically inclined, so I was just going by the instructions the previous owner gave me in terms of painting it. On second thought, I guess a high temp paint might not be necessary at all. I'm going to head back to AutoZone tomorrow to grab some more Dupli-Color paint. Should I just grab the break caliper paint or what? I decided to keep the red metallic effect paint I bought by mistake to go over the red paint I'm going to buy tomorrow because I like how it looks. So it's going to be intake --> Dupli-Color Adhesion Promotor --> red Dupli-Color paint of some kind ???? --> red Dupli-Color Metalcast If it's plastic I would give vinyl dye a shot first. I'll be honest, the metal vs plastic thing doesn't mean a goddamn bit of difference unless your car is highly tuned. You would have much better luck with a metal intake that is heat wrapped, if you're really worried about intake temps (and in the end you're talking 0.01 HP difference).
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Mar 15, 2009 19:39
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2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4L My steering fluid was all foamy today. Today, right after starting the car, we heard a sort of groaning sound when turning the wheel. We'd heard the sound before, and that time it turned out that the PS dipstick came out dry, so I figured this time was the same. However, when I pulled the dipstick after a short trip, it wasn't dry. It was covered in foam! The reservoir was all foamy on top as well. A bit later, I checked it again, and the foam and sound were both gone. My question is, what is causing the sound and the foamy fluid? Is it just everything being cold and starting the car and turning it?
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Mar 16, 2009 01:04
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GoblinBomb posted:2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4L Sounds like you may have run your pump dry and when you added the new fluid, the pump started mixing air into the new fluid. The procedure I've always used for bleeding a PS system is to fill the reservoir to max, start the car, then turn the steering wheel lock to lock for a while (I dunno, a few minutes or so), then refill as required.
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Mar 16, 2009 02:00
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TheFrailNinja posted:So my truck makes a nasty sound when I get up to about 3k rpm and higher, and it worries me. It sounds like if you say "inginginginginginginginging" as fast as you can. It sounds like hard objects vibrating on a hard surface. The truck is a 95 nissan hardbody, 2.4 4x4, as if you don't all already know. bumping this from 4 pages back
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Mar 16, 2009 04:45
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It's probably a heatshield that's loose. Noisy, but won't cause any damage.
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Mar 16, 2009 05:59
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I've got an '02 Honda Civic SI (Vtech-i). Yesterday, I was driving home after a being out in the sun, and the car would not let the RPM's go over 4k. The normal red line limiter kicks on at just over 7200 or so. Generally I do not take the car above 5k except on rare occasion. When It hit 4k though, it felt as if I was hitting the RMP limiter. The needle would bounce. This is the first time it has happened like this. While driving on the Highway, I tried to shut the car off, then back on while driving to see if it would clear. It did not. I stopped at a friends house for about an hour, started it back up and now everything appears fine. I've driven about 60 miles since this happened. The car has 110k miles on it, which is when the timing belt etc needs to be replaced (Planning to get the scheduled maintenance done real soon). The engine light has been on, when I checked the codes at AutoZone it points to either the 2nd O2 sensor behind the cat, or a clogged cat. The light has been on for at least 8 months.. I'm bad yes. So 2 questions. If this does not happen again, can I assume it was a fluke? Precursor to more problems? The other issue, I'm going to be going to Las Vegas (1000 miles round trip) in 2 weeks, and planned to drive my car. Should I get the 110k maintenance taken care of before, or after the trip? I was hoping after would be ok? Thanks!
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Mar 16, 2009 15:46
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car: 2001 mitsubishi mirage miles: 87,000 issue: the other day we had a super cold night and my car wouldn't start the next day. i jumped it and drove it around for the day. the next day, it started right up but i drove it very little, less than 2 miles. since then, i've noticed that the car will start on its own if i drove it a decent amount the day before. but if i only drive it a short distance, it won't start the next day. my guess is that the battery is just shot. if it was the alternator, then i imagine that it would need to be jumped on each start, right?
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Mar 16, 2009 17:07
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gce posted:car: 2001 mitsubishi mirage This is normal. The battery isn't dead yet but is at reduced capacity most likely due to age and the cold. Your alternator charges the battery, if it doesn't have time to do that because you're not driving it enough after sucking down a bunch of power to start the car. It might also help cleaning the terminals if they're pretty corroded.
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Mar 16, 2009 17:33
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thanks. so with the warmer weather coming, should i go ahead and replace the battery now? or should i just wait for it to crap out?
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Mar 16, 2009 17:41
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gce posted:thanks. so with the warmer weather coming, should i go ahead and replace the battery now? or should i just wait for it to crap out? Eh that's a call of how cheap you wanna be. As long as you drive the car you'll probably be ok for a few more months if its starting to warm up. If you drive the car a short distance just let it idle a minute or so with the radio and A/C off and it will recharge it.
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Mar 16, 2009 17:54
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Does this look like a good project car: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1076715312.html
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Mar 16, 2009 19:49
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How much do you know about rotaries and what do you wanna do with it?
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Mar 16, 2009 22:18
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is an optima yellow top the battery for me if i am someone who constantly kills batteries via toys in the car when the car isn't running (i have left my car pc running over night atleast a dozen times). I don't care about getting a jump (usually i can just roll down the hill and pop start it) but i don't want to keep toasting batteries by running them dead.
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Mar 17, 2009 05:16
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Why not turn everything off? You could really kill the life of a battery doing that even if it was otherwise suitable for what you want to do. That said yes an Optima may be better for that.
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Mar 17, 2009 14:24
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Yeah, check your terminals and the cables. The clamps on my old concorde were getting warped and dirty and had trouble making a solid connection to the battery. I had this same problem on cold days. I'd have to pop the hood and re-clamp them to get it to start. I finally cleaned the crap out of them one day and spent some time re-shaping them and it helped out a ton. I probably should have replaced them all together though.
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Mar 17, 2009 15:30
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Also if youre asking this question you may not be aware that che easiers and cheapest way to clean terminals is to get the little terminal cleaning tool that you can buy at habor freight/autozone for about $1.
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Mar 17, 2009 15:32
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loving kids. Best way to remove my new pinstriping? Insurance has been contacted. As dirty as the car is, I suspect it may come off with a wash, surface prep is everything. But if it doesn't, guidance would be appreciated.
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Mar 17, 2009 16:39
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2005 Ford Explorer V6 I've been itching for the digital climate control, since I like it way different then my wife during the summer. I currently have the analog knobs, does anyone know if the digital climate control unit is a straight swap over wiring wise, or is there different harasses and such that would make this a pain in the rear end? thanks
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Mar 17, 2009 16:55
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Gnomad posted:loving kids. If it has a poo poo bond you may get a lot of it off with a claybar. What doesnt will come off with 1500->2000 grit wet sanding followed by polishing and then your favorite wax/sealant. Good news is it should look good as new when youre done. Bad news is the proper polishing compounds, sandpaper and buffer will run you ~$200
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Mar 17, 2009 18:21
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Gnomad posted:loving kids. Same thing happened to my girlfriends hood. Came off with really no problem with a polishing compound. Don't bother with your insurance, try nu-finish or some 3m compound. Obviously clean off the dirt first with soap and water. I pretty much guarantee it'll come off if the paint is fresh, you won't need to sand or use an orbital buffer or anything. Give it a nice wax after polishing it. She thought she was going to have to buy a new hood and was pretty pissed off. 10 dollar fix.
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Mar 17, 2009 19:17
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My brother got me new headlights for my birthday last year, long story short company he bought it from was flaky so it took several months for them to ship it out. The headlights also came with a grill to match, but for some retarded reason, they decided not to include clips to let me put it in. I have a '95 Corolla DX that is fitted with What I believe are '97 headlights. I took a picture with my phone to show the clip that's on the headlight, and the clip that on the grill:  On the left is the clip that is on the grill, right is what is on the headlight. Anyone know where I can purchase the clip to fit this? I went to 6 shops around me and nobody knew where I could get one (one guy referred me to a non-existent shop that had everything I would need) and told me to go to a junkyard. Here's another shot with the grill lined up: 
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Mar 17, 2009 21:11
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Gnomad posted:loving kids. Try acetone (nail polish remover) too.
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Mar 18, 2009 00:25
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Couldn't that damage the paint?
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Mar 18, 2009 00:33
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deong posted:I've got an '02 Honda Civic SI (Vtech-i). what you've described is your car going into limp mode. this is most commonly a fuel injection issue, or the fuel itself. does the last generation Si only take premium? not trying to insinuate that you're dumb or anything, i promise, but perhaps you accidentally put in 87 octane the last time you refueled? this would put the engine in limp mode the second you pulled out of the gas station. additionally, check to make sure your O2 sensor to the cat didn't fall out -- i've heard of it happening (with age, of course.) or, just replace the sensor for something like $80.
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Mar 18, 2009 01:07
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Ashex posted:My brother got me new headlights for my birthday last year, long story short company he bought it from was flaky so it took several months for them to ship it out. So you're looking for a retainer from the headlamp to the grille on a 97 corolla?Go to a toyota parts counter, show them the picture, they should be able to order some clips for you. Shouldn't be more than a few dollars. I'll try to remember tomorrow and I'll get some part numbers for you so they know what to order.
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Mar 18, 2009 03:01
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My manual says to use 75W90 GL-4 in the gearbox. I went to Walmart and the stuff is $40/jug. 80W90 is like $12/jug. Why is it so expensive? Being the high roller I am I bought the specified type of oil, but can I use 80W90? What kind of leeway do I have when it comes to gearbox oil? EDIT: OK the 75W90 was synthetic while the 80W90 may not have been, but still...... EDIT 2: They didn't really have much of a selection for MT oil. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Mar 18, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 04:21
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enojy posted:what you've described is your car going into limp mode. this is most commonly a fuel injection issue, or the fuel itself. does the last generation Si only take premium? not trying to insinuate that you're dumb or anything, i promise, but perhaps you accidentally put in 87 octane the last time you refueled? this would put the engine in limp mode the second you pulled out of the gas station. Thanks. My generation SI takes 87 octane according to the manual, so that's what she's gotten for her life. When I get gas, I mark it every time on my phone via http://mymilemarker.com/. So far I get between 28 and 32, with the occasional 40 on an all highway tank. I'll check if the O2 Sensor has fallen out. It's been like that for so long, and I never flet issue (8 months or so) that I've kind of gotten to ignore it. I've pulled the codes every few months, and every time i get the same 2. P1298 and P0420. Not sure of how often, or how many times the 2 came up as I've never had them cleared. I'll be looking into getting the car serviced, as Timing belt changes are too complex for me to want to tackle. And while Im at it I'll have that O2 checked. Thanks.
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Mar 18, 2009 04:55
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Throatwarbler posted:75W90 I ran into the same problem when refilling my 98 Corolla's transmission. Do you have a Napa or other car part store near by? My local store had a much better selection, and I was able to find some non-synthetic Valvoline 75W90 for $10 or so a jug.
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Mar 18, 2009 05:17
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Are caliper slide-pin boots necessary? I bought a reman. caliper for my Jeep Cherokee and there was no way in hell the pins would fit inside the rubber/plastic boots, so I took them out. My friend's dad (who's been a Ford mechanic for 40+ years) told me they weren't necessary. Are they there just to prevent 'welding' incase the grease goes away?
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Mar 18, 2009 08:07
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