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Uthor posted:I find this under the OEM section, but I'm not sure if this is a European only feature or if it's a factory option. On the GTI, you can replace the air vent on the top of the dash with a tray. That is rather novel. I wouldn't mind installing that on my Company Rabbit. (09 S 2.5/5spd) I hate that stupid 'diffuser' up on top. I hate it so much.
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Mar 27, 2009 20:07
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ACEofsnett posted:That is rather novel. I wouldn't mind installing that on my Company Rabbit. (09 S 2.5/5spd) I hate that stupid 'diffuser' up on top. I hate it so much. I like my diffuser.  Anyway, you can get it here: http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Volkswagen&engine=2.5&model=Golf%20V&submodel=&category=Interior&subcategory=OEM It's not too much money and a pretty easy install (installation instructions are on the page I linked). It's a company car, but I doubt they'd notice and you can reverse the install/sell the tray when you need to get rid of the car.
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Mar 27, 2009 20:50
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What is the name of the 3.8L in the GN?
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Mar 28, 2009 01:47
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RealKyleH posted:What is the name of the 3.8L in the GN? LC2 I believe it is.
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Mar 28, 2009 05:03
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Grimster posted:LC2 I believe it is. The chevy 4.3L headers and GN headers both have one offset exhaust port (like a SBC minus the front two or the last two) any idea if they use similar heads? Would header flanges from a GN motor bolt up to a 4.3L and do they have a name for that series of engines? The LC2 doesn't appear to be similar at all to the Series II 3800 in that respect so I am wondering what motors it shares header flanges with.
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Mar 28, 2009 08:27
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OK, time for some stupid newbie questions about automatic transmissions.. 1) Is shifting your transmission into neutral when you stop frowned upon? For example, when I stop at a red light and I know I'll sit there for a while I'll just shift to neutral and leave the car there, and then re-engage D to continue, I do this A LOT... I've heard is bad for the tranny.. the car is a 5 speed AUT 2003 Passat 1.8T 2) Does do any damage? 3) Also whenever the car is cold and I shift from P to D the change is jerky, and it makes a noticeably *thunk, NOW, after a few seconds when the RPM's go down as a result of nominal engine temperature, the change is smooth as usual, is this normal? or is this a sign of changing the transmission oil? 3) Am I an idiot for buying a Passat? and why wont anyone buy it!!
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Mar 28, 2009 15:32
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mulligan posted:1) Is shifting your transmission into neutral when you stop frowned upon? 1) It won't do any damage. It'll reduce stress on the transmission since when the transmission is in D and you're completely stopped, it will be spinning slightly against the fluid coupling, creating small amounts of heat. In practice, it won't mean a thing. I always put my manual in neutral when stopped because it saves wear on the throwout bearing and lets me relax my left leg, but that's not something you have to worry about  2) No, see above.
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Mar 28, 2009 15:54
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Has anyone done any comparisons with the Hyundai Genesis Coupe yet? I'm curious to see how it holds up against the 370Z and the recent muscle cars coming out of Detroit.
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Mar 28, 2009 16:27
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Garth Vader posted:Has anyone done any comparisons with the Hyundai Genesis Coupe yet? I'm curious to see how it holds up against the 370Z and the recent muscle cars coming out of Detroit. http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/112_0905_hyundai_genesis_coupe_mustang_fighter_or_cut_price_nissan_370z/index.html Comparo with the 2010 Mustang and I think 370z also
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Mar 28, 2009 16:59
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KozmoNaut posted:I always put my manual in neutral when stopped because it saves wear on the throwout bearing and lets me relax my left leg, but that's not something you have to worry about Whenever I drive my folks' cars, I put them in N at lights because I'm not used to having to hold the brake that hard. If I don't hold the brake in D, the car rolls forward; it's just so weird to me after learning how to drive a manual.
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Mar 28, 2009 17:09
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Anybody have any idea which track this is? 
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Mar 29, 2009 00:53
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I'm getting a P0133 and P0131 on a '97 Mazda 626 (v6). Am I correct in my diagnostic that I need to replace the oxygen sensor located closest to the radiator (for those familiar with the engine)
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Mar 29, 2009 02:02
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revmoo posted:I'm getting a P0133 and P0131 on a '97 Mazda 626 (v6). Am I correct in my diagnostic that I need to replace the oxygen sensor located closest to the radiator (for those familiar with the engine) I think bank 1 on that engine is the most forward one, so whichever sensor is closest to the manifold on the front. Not sure, though.
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Mar 29, 2009 02:25
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I'm a dumbass and managed to break the hook that holds the top part of the side cushion in on my '03 Civic sedan while replacing my rear speakers. Is there anything that I can do to help hold it in place at the top or do I have to replace the whole cushion?
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Mar 29, 2009 02:33
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Is there any way to get the gas out of my truck's tank? I need to replace the fuel pump so I figured I'd siphon the gas to lighten the weight of the tank before I drop it, but found out that there's a screen in the filler tube, so I can't get a hose down there. I tried bashing out the screen but no go. My dad suggested I just nail a hole in the bottom and fill it in again later but that sounds like a recipe for disaster. It's got at least 60 litres in it right now so I'd imagine that's a pretty significant weight added and I'm not sure if it's a good idea to use a jack to hold the a 3/4 full tank.
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Mar 29, 2009 03:17
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Crouton posted:Is there any way to get the gas out of my truck's tank? I've used a hand-operated transfer pump ($10.00 at O'Reilly) hooked onto the nipple at the top of the fuel pickup before. Just take the hose going to the rest of fuel system off and slip the pump's suction hose on. edit: if the bad pump creates too much resistance when you pump it out you can use the fuel return line also digger_smolkin fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 03:27
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I've got an 85 4 cylinder Fiero and it really has disagreements with alternator/water pump belt. When I first bought it in Februrary the belt broke within a week. Okay, I replaced it and went on my way. Since then I've put about 3500 miles on the car with no issues up until recently when the belt started schreeching like a banshee. Last night I was about 100 miles from home when the belt came off after squealing some more. I put it back and I was able to drive the 100 miles back home with no issues or screeching. When I started it up to leave tonight, it started squealing again. I drove it for about a mile when I decided to check it. When I checked it out, the belt stretched and wrapped itself around a bolt. The belt was going around three pulleys and this bolt without breaking. It somehow turned itself around so the ribs were on the outside. I took it off and it was warped as a motherfucker. I managed to get it on the right way and it took about 2 seconds to break when I started it. What is going on here?
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Mar 29, 2009 03:39
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/\/\/\Maybe you could take a picture? It sounds like something's not right, but who knows what without looking at it?
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Mar 29, 2009 05:54
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My friend has a 2000 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. Somehow the anti-theft module got soaked in water, leading to all kinds of erratic behavior. When he took it to the shop they said it was going to be a $750 dollar part + labor. Every once in a while he can get it to turn over and it starts fine. Is there a way to just cut that part out. Looking at the schematics the main problem seems to be that it's tied into the ecu and starter locking relay. I assume the relay can be bypassed, but is there any way to find out what signal a normal anti-theft module sends the ecu? EDIT: Pretty much the thing is he bet me the car that it couldn't be fixed without buying that module. If it doesn't get fixed, he'll probably sell it for scrap. PapaLazarou fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 10:03
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Leperflesh posted:/\/\/\Maybe you could take a picture? It sounds like something's not right, but who knows what without looking at it?
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Mar 29, 2009 11:44
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So I've got this Red 10 fuse in my truck that goes into a slot called "Radio/Air Con" but every time I try to use the AC at the same time as the radio (which is always receiving power while the truck is on), it blows the fuse. Also, the fuse to my interior lights mysteriously blew also. I just fixed them all and it was so nice for a while to have the truck light up inside when I opened the door... So what should I look at next? Should I just accept the fact that I will never get AC?
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Mar 29, 2009 16:52
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2000 Dodge Neon For some reason, on this car, out of the four tires, three if them are perfectly ok, great treadwear and all. but the front passenger tire is bald as all hell. Good tires (Both Rear and front drivers side look like this)  Bad front passenger side tire  I'm totally at a loss. While driving it, there isn't any noticeable clunking or anything I would attribute to a bad suspension. I'm not exactly an experienced mechanic, so I dont really know what more to check to be honest. Anyone have a=
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Mar 29, 2009 17:00
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TheFrailNinja posted:So I've got this Red 10 fuse in my truck that goes into a slot called "Radio/Air Con" but every time I try to use the AC at the same time as the radio (which is always receiving power while the truck is on), it blows the fuse. Also, the fuse to my interior lights mysteriously blew also. I just fixed them all and it was so nice for a while to have the truck light up inside when I opened the door... You probably have a short somewhere in your A/C wiring. If the fuse doesn't blow while just the radio is on you can assume its working OK enough. As for the other fuse, maybe just coincidence? Also what kind of Truck?
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Mar 29, 2009 17:06
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1995 Nissan hardbody (2.4, 5 speed, 180k miles)
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Mar 29, 2009 17:11
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Dradien posted:1 hosed tire, 3 good tires. Time for an alignment and a front end check. And a new tire, or two.
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Mar 29, 2009 17:37
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TheFrailNinja posted:So I've got this Red 10 fuse in my truck that goes into a slot called "Radio/Air Con" but every time I try to use the AC at the same time as the radio (which is always receiving power while the truck is on), it blows the fuse. Also, the fuse to my interior lights mysteriously blew also. I just fixed them all and it was so nice for a while to have the truck light up inside when I opened the door... Just bypass the fuse with a jumper wire. Fuses are for pussies who don't like electrical fires.
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Mar 29, 2009 17:38
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Dradien posted:Bad front passenger side tire
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Mar 29, 2009 17:50
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My door is rusty as balls. It started to rust through completely from the outside view and from inside the you can see that its rusting as well. I don't know a single thing in terms of fixing this, where do I even start? Bondo, fiberglass, metal? Would it be easier to buy an entirely new door? 
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Mar 29, 2009 19:54
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TheFrailNinja posted:So I've got this Red 10 fuse in my truck that goes into a slot called "Radio/Air Con" but every time I try to use the AC at the same time as the radio (which is always receiving power while the truck is on), it blows the fuse. While a short as mentioned above is likely, let's not overlook the obvious: Is it supposed to be a Red 10 fuse?
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Mar 29, 2009 21:10
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Would it be easier to buy an entirely new door? Unless you're good at welding, it'd probably be cheapest and easiest to just get a new door.
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Mar 29, 2009 21:17
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Yeah, I don't have any welding experience whatsoever, haha. Now I just need to track down a right passenger door from a 97-00 Dodge Avenger preferably in the same color. Eclipse and Talon doors fit but they don't have the same trim pieces on the door so it wouldn't match at all. The rust on the second picture is on the fender itself and should be easy to fix though.
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Mar 29, 2009 21:23
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Lord Flashheart posted:My friend has a 2000 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. Somehow the anti-theft module got soaked in water, leading to all kinds of erratic behavior. When he took it to the shop they said it was going to be a $750 dollar part + labor. Every once in a while he can get it to turn over and it starts fine. Is there a way to just cut that part out. Looking at the schematics the main problem seems to be that it's tied into the ecu and starter locking relay. I assume the relay can be bypassed, but is there any way to find out what signal a normal anti-theft module sends the ecu? I think audi may have a recall or campaign on these, it is caused by a combination of poor design and neglect (clogged drains). Yes, he needs it fixed. And this isn't the tupe of thing your scrap a car over, selling value (running)-scrap value>$750+labor
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Mar 29, 2009 22:54
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Lowclock posted:Unless you're good at welding, it'd probably be cheapest and easiest to just get a new door. Cheapest No. Best? Yes
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Mar 29, 2009 22:58
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einTier posted:That screams bad alignment. Horrifically so. It could be something simple that can be adjusted right out, like massive toe in, or it could be bent suspension parts. Get it to an alignment rack and find out. I'm going on record to say his Tie-Rod End is worn out.
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Mar 29, 2009 23:04
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daslog posted:I'm going on record to say his Tie-Rod End is worn out. How would I go about checking that? Is there any obvious signs of that, besides the massively worn tire?
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Mar 29, 2009 23:07
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Dradien posted:How would I go about checking that? Is there any obvious signs of that, besides the massively worn tire? 1) Jack up the car 2) Setup a Jack-stand (or something to prevent the car from falling on you) 3) Shake the wheel from left to right. The tie rod should not have any free play.
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Mar 29, 2009 23:46
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So I have a stupid question for you... I have a suspission that the dealer is trying to screw me. My 1999 GMC Jimmy (2Door, Automatic 4WD) is having problems going in reverse. It works fine in Drive, every time, from a cold start. If it's cold, I can't back out of a parking space that's uphill. If it's flat/downsloped I can use gravity to get me rolling and get out fine. By the time I drive 20-30 minutes I get my reverse gear back. A week or two ago I took it into the dealer to get a diagnosis. He said he'd take a look at it, and call me in a day (pretty busy). He called me the next day and said it was a "problem with reverse clutch" which necessitated "replacing or rebuilding the transmission." Estimated Cost $2500-$3500. Now my question is does this make sense or is he just seeing college kid (Big 10 College Town, anyone under 30 is automatically seen like this) that he thinks he can sucker for mommy and daddy's money? I am not asking anyone to diagnose a problem sight unseen, I just want to know if there is such a thing as a 'reverse clutch' and if fixing this would require a full transmission rebuild/replacement.
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Mar 30, 2009 01:32
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It may or may not be a clutch problem but pretty much regardless of what the problem is the trans would have to come out, come apart and whatever broken parts replaced which is going to be expensive. Especially at a dealer. Just for them to take it out and put it in without doing anything to it starts at about $400-500. Cheapest way to fix this is problem going to be buying a rebuilt trans yourself online and having a mechanic put it in for you. That will run you the cost of the trans and fluids + 400-500 like I mentioned earlier.
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Mar 30, 2009 01:47
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I put my motorcycle away for prolonged storage back in late June last year as I was heading off to Australia. I got back to the US in November and have just recently gotten the bike back from my parents' place. I had them start it up and run it down the street from time to time, but other than that it sat in their garage (under a cover) for 8 months. Anyway, the front tire is consistently low. It'll hold decent air for a couple days but will flatten out completely after about 3-4 days. The tire is a fairly new Dunlop with less than 3,000 miles probably. Is there a chance that it just needs to be run for a while at good speeds to work itself back onto the bead? I'd rather not have to buy another tire.
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Mar 30, 2009 02:47
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Molten Llama posted:While a short as mentioned above is likely, let's not overlook the obvious: Is it supposed to be a Red 10 fuse? Yes 
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Mar 30, 2009 02:48
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