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Guinness posted:I think they'll look A LOT better once they are actually on the car and not standing next to it. The perspective of that picture is all sorts of hosed up and makes them look retarded. no it isnt =) I like my car, alot of people do.. And its got performance to it (boost soon!) .. but hey, its my car =p
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Apr 2, 2009 00:30
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Okay those actually look pretty good. Better than I thought they would, in fact. Proper perspective makes a world of difference.
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Apr 2, 2009 00:36
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Guinness posted:Okay those actually look pretty good. Better than I thought they would, in fact. Proper perspective makes a world of difference. Thanks ! .. brembo braking kit soon to complete the empty wheel wells .. either red, or CF with red lettering... we'll see.. ugh so much money put into this! so much fun though. :P BmwM3AF fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 00:41
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I'm looking for a car to take back and forth between college and to gig on weekends and during the summer (Percussionist and I would like maybe a hatchback to lug drums and poo poo back and forth). Reason I'm posting in this BMW Megathread because I want to know if 318ti's are good cars. If I find with a good service history and a good owner, should I get it? My other options are Mazda3 (I know I know the curse) or a Versa, Astra, or some other non German poo poo car  . Suggestions? FAKE EDIT: If I end up not buying a hatchback I love E36's, and I pose the same questions.
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Apr 3, 2009 03:28
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Well, I'm going to replace my manual transmission fluid this weekend. I did it a year ago and I think I didn't tighten the drain plug enough, because I've noticed its wet around there usually, and I suspect my fluid's been slowly draining. Now, the car (and presumably original transmission) is pushing 163k miles. The transmission says specifically to use ATF. I live in a northern climate and want something that isn't going to suck to drive in the winter when it gets -10°F and colder. I want something I can pick up at autozone on my way home and that isn't stupidly expensive. Any suggestions?
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Apr 3, 2009 20:44
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My friend's ex jumped on top of her 99 5-series and crumpled the top. The garage says it's going to take about 3 grand to fix, would it just be cheaper to get it turned into a convertible? Is it even possible?
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Apr 4, 2009 01:21
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change my name posted:would it just be cheaper to get it turned into a convertible? No. change my name posted:Is it even possible? Not really. change my name posted:My friend's ex jumped on top of her 99 5-series and crumpled the top. If it can be proven, tell her to take this dink to small claims court to cover the cost.
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Apr 4, 2009 02:12
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change my name posted:cheaper to get it turned into a convertible? Is it even possible? Is this a joke? To completely custom fabricate a new top, and to do all the body work necessary to cut off the old top, and make it look presentable. The amount of planning and body work alone is massive. Add to that, that you would need some SERIOUS structural changes to keep any sort of integrity. This would probably include a roll bar, and how would you even go about deciding on where a roll bar would look good on a four door? Two roll bars? or convert it into a coupe? I think you'd be better off buying a brand new 335i Convertible, it would probably still be much cheaper than converting an old 5 series.
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Apr 4, 2009 02:31
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Just purchased a 1985 325e. Rust in the front fender and rockers, nonfunctional sunroof, guibo clunking. Came with a Bentley service manual though  Will make thread later in the week when I pick it up, possible seafoam action.  Click here for the full 795x596 image. Oh noes, cancer!  Click here for the full 795x596 image. 84,275 miles on the clock.
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Apr 5, 2009 03:17
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Typical E36 problem area #65: trunk wiring I thought I had a better picture than that. Oh well. Anyway, after I had replaced my transmission fluid, fuel filter, and wiper blades, I thought I'd take a look at my trunk wiring. Egad! Thee wires were completely broken: blue/white larger-gage, brown/orange small-gage, and red/white small-gage which escapes me. The white wire larger-gage was nearly cut. I butt-spliced them all back together, and wrapped each wire in electrical tape for the whole length. I cut off the original loom. Come Monday I'll try to back everything in some 7/8" loom we have at work. Until then the electrical tape looks to be fine. My trunk light works again (I think this was the red/white wire)! But the trunk lock still doesn't lock/unlock the other doors. That must be an issue with the lock itself and I really don't care enough. Does anybody have a list of what wires run though the trunk harness in an E36? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Apr 5, 2009 |
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Apr 5, 2009 03:18
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what the ... the cover for the back end on my 2000 528i (e39) wagon is stuck angled out for best visibility, the other side latches in and out fine ... but this side isnt playing nicely  overhead, out of focus, shot  do i just stick a screwdriver / crowbar in there and pry it out or what?
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Apr 6, 2009 05:41
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EvilMoFo posted:what the ... the cover for the back end on my 2000 528i (e39) wagon is stuck I haven't done one on a touring before, but it's a fairly common problem on the e53 cargo cover and I'd imagine they're about the same. Pull up on the end that you can release and take a good look at the latch mechanism. There should be a little plastic spring loaded tab on the cover side that locks around the metal cleat in the car. Using a pocket screw driver (or other narrow metal instrument) you should be able to manipulate the jammed side's tab enough to compress it to the point that the cover will come free. Usually the problem is that the button either sticks and won't retract the tab, or something is jammed under the cleat. Or just pull really hard and buy a new cargo cover.
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Apr 6, 2009 06:08
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sliderule posted:Just purchased a 1985 325e.
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Apr 6, 2009 11:16
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Shiales posted:I'm possibly looking at getting an '85 318i in automatic sometime this week but was wondering if there's any common problems from BMWs of that age? From what I've asked there's already some muffler issue when I spoke to the person selling it, other than that it seemed fine and dandy. Other than it being the absolute slowest US-spec E30, they are fine cars with good reliability. It will have the M10 engine which is quite overbuilt and will run a very long time IF it is maintained. Check for records of this. You want to see regular oil changes, fuel filter changes, VALVE ADJUSTMENTS, air filter changes, etc... They don't have much to go wrong because they don't have much in the way of fancy equipment. Not even ABS, which started with the 1986 model year. How much are they asking? Any rust?
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Apr 6, 2009 12:34
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CornHolio posted:Typical E36 problem area #65: trunk wiring Just a few posts up I had the same problem - except I didn't know it was a problem. My car just wouldn't start and that led me to the trunk eventually. Something to do with door locks disabling the ignition. Blue/white was broken and two others were shorting causing fuses to blow. 
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Apr 6, 2009 19:14
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Brock Landers posted:Other than it being the absolute slowest US-spec E30, they are fine cars with good reliability. It will have the M10 engine which is quite overbuilt and will run a very long time IF it is maintained. Check for records of this. You want to see regular oil changes, fuel filter changes, VALVE ADJUSTMENTS, air filter changes, etc... They don't have much to go wrong because they don't have much in the way of fancy equipment. Not even ABS, which started with the 1986 model year. How much are they asking? Any rust?
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Apr 7, 2009 04:21
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Shiales posted:There's no log books with the car, and the seller has mentioned that they don't personally take car of the car other than filling it up with gas every once in a while. What few places of rust that was on the car look like they've been touched up, although poorly. The brakes are also gone but that's easily fixed. They're asking $2000, while the average price of them in my area is about $1900-2500. hahahah oh my god, no, absolutely not for that price. Offer them 1k, if they don't take it, walk.
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Apr 7, 2009 05:20
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Average price of e30s, or average price of old as poo poo 318s? Those cars are 25 years old now, not a sought after model, and slow as hell. At the very least hold out for a 325e, or a newer 318.
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Apr 7, 2009 06:06
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Well, after bitchin' earlier last month about my impossible quest to find a BMW, I've finally found a BMW! I'm blueballing with no pictures as I haven't had a chance to take any yet, unfortunately. I wanted to get something in decent condition I could build up myself, but ended up settling for someone else's work due to the hardship in FINDING something I'm pleased with. Black on black 95 325i 4 door, mantran. 130k on engine and tranny (ouch, only bad about it, although the car has been babied and well taken care of, the clutch and transmission feel smooth) Stuff put into it: quote:m3 suspension: Suspension bits have less than 5k miles on 'em, haven't been driven hard, and nothing is older than 8k. Bought it from a total enthusiast, whose entire household owns E36 M3s. (Yes, I almost wanted to keep the guy talking just 'cause every time I was there he was working on SOMETHING and I wanted to just drop the shop talk and help him out) I feel I overpaid by a bit for it but eh, got rid of the headache of not finding anything I liked and getting SOMETHING. I feel like I'm driving someone ELSE'S car but I hope that I'll soon get acquainted and get that "you're MINE" feeling. A few questions: There's some heavy oxidation nasty stuff on the battery in the trunk, how would I go about cleaning it, and if not possible, replace it ASAP? Can I still find random E36 trim bits at dealerships? I need one little rubber corner bit for the rear window which I figure won't cost more than a few bux, and I'm wondering that, if I have the key and bring the car in, can they make me a new keyless entry/alarm key fob, as the old one has been lost to the dusts of time. OxMan fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Apr 7, 2009 |
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Apr 7, 2009 08:35
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OxMan posted:Can I still find random E36 trim bits at dealerships? I need one little rubber corner bit for the rear window which I figure won't cost more than a few bux, and I'm wondering that, if I have the key and bring the car in, can they make me a new keyless entry/alarm key fob, as the old one has been lost to the dusts of time. For trim pieces, find it at https://www.realoem.com and then plug the part number in somewhere like Pelican Parts or Bavarian Autosport.
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Apr 7, 2009 12:57
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I can not find that piece on that list. It's not even trim, I guess it's considered moulding. Basically on the rear window, the rubber that goes around on the edges, there is a little corner piece that's its own piece, that is missing on the right side, and I for the life of me can't find it on that list. Am I just looking in the wrong sections? (I checked mouldings and trim)
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Apr 8, 2009 05:48
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OxMan posted:I can not find that piece on that list. It's not even trim, I guess it's considered moulding. Basically on the rear window, the rubber that goes around on the edges, there is a little corner piece that's its own piece, that is missing on the right side, and I for the life of me can't find it on that list. Am I just looking in the wrong sections? (I checked mouldings and trim) Its probably in 51 05 with the glass. That's such a small piece you might as well go to the dealer and have it ordered. I believe all that edge trim is glued, so you'll need to get someone to install it for you anyway.
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Apr 8, 2009 06:28
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peterjmatt posted:Its probably in 51 05 with the glass. That's such a small piece you might as well go to the dealer and have it ordered. I believe all that edge trim is glued, so you'll need to get someone to install it for you anyway. Ah, thanks, I saw it there. The whole thing was 37 but it did have a corner bit, which I should hopefully find at the dealership. Thanks, I feel like an idiot for not looking there :p
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Apr 8, 2009 06:53
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Just got my E36 325i back from the garage, new shocks, heat shielding over the exhaust sorted. Unfortunately he found some nastiness under there, brake tubes nearly snapped and some rubber joint on the drive shaft nearly gone. So its back in next friday. Advice from other owners, back pads and discs. Any brand names that stand out? Should I get the drilled, grooved ones or just plain jane discs.
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Apr 8, 2009 19:19
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Raikonnen posted:Advice from other owners, back pads and discs. Any brand names that stand out? Should I get the drilled, grooved ones or just plain jane discs. Plane jane rotors and OEM equivalent (Mintex) pads are just fine for a street car. The rubber joint on the driveshaft is a "guibo" and helps smooth the engine output to the rear end.
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Apr 8, 2009 19:27
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Sterndotstern posted:Plane jane rotors and OEM equivalent (Mintex) pads are just fine for a street car. The rubber joint on the driveshaft is a "guibo" and helps smooth the engine output to the rear end. Thanks for that, I was browsing prices and the grooved were through the roof. Its just a daily driver, to and from work. I know I could get a newish car, but I just love the 325i, awesome fun to drive. The guy I just got it back from changed the oil, and said it had 9 - 10 litres of oil in there. He was surprised i hadnt had major problems before now.
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Apr 8, 2009 19:32
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Raikonnen posted:The guy I just got it back from changed the oil, and said it had 9 - 10 litres of oil in there. He was surprised i hadnt had major problems before now. Will the crankcase even hold that much oil? Holy poo poo.
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Apr 8, 2009 19:33
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CornHolio posted:Will the crankcase even hold that much oil? Holy poo poo. 6.5L is supposed to be the proper amount... http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254116
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Apr 8, 2009 19:36
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CornHolio posted:Will the crankcase even hold that much oil? Holy poo poo. No idea, the guy I had it in with yesterday seems trustworthy, it was the first thing he told me as i went to pick it up today. His normal oilpan holds 6 litres with room to carry it to the drum he stores old oil in. He said it was full to the brim, and they had to use two 2 litre cartons to move the rest. He was actually shocked, he asked me if i'd ever put any oil in myself (never have, never had to), and immediately there and then gave me a discount on any future work i needed doing. I suppose hes right, as i'm more than likely going to be a repeat customer! ^^ he put 6.1 litres back into it, and changed the gear oil.
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Apr 8, 2009 19:38
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Raikonnen posted:No idea, the guy I had it in with yesterday seems trustworthy, it was the first thing he told me as i went to pick it up today. His normal oilpan holds 6 litres with room to carry it to the drum he stores old oil in. He said it was full to the brim, and they had to use two 2 litre cartons to move the rest. He was actually shocked, he asked me if i'd ever put any oil in myself (never have, never had to), and immediately there and then gave me a discount on any future work i needed doing. It definitely should have taken 7 quarts (6.5l), so I'd double check the dipstick. Actually, you should get into the habit of checking the dip stick regularly anyway. At the very least you'll know if someone dumps an extra gallon of oil into your engine. I'm not sure that I believe 10l came out though. I've never tried it, but I doubt you can put 40% too much oil in the pan without blowing black smoke. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Apr 9, 2009 |
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Apr 9, 2009 01:24
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Raikonnen posted:Just got my E36 325i back from the garage, new shocks, heat shielding over the exhaust sorted. That rubber joint (donut/guibo) is a common failure and when mine was replaced accelerating was MUCH smoother. No more vibration/resonance at certain speeds and gears.
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Apr 9, 2009 02:00
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It turns out a guy from my work bought an '86 325e for the pristine interior so he can swap it into his '89 325i. He found out that I own an '85 325e and asked if I need any parts. I told him I wouldn't mind taking the engine (with wire harness), trans, and driveshaft from him since the car only has 60,000 miles on it (and runs perfectly). We started talking about pricing and he said he thinks he could get $1500 for the parts I'm asking for and I told him I'm in a position where I can reasonably afford $400-500 for it, plus I would need to drive to Memphis from Minneapolis to pick it up. I talked to him today and he didn't seem too happy about $400. I don't want to screw him (but I know he only paid $800 for the parts car anyway) but he knows that I'm a lowly peon and I don't get paid much. What do you guys think it fair to offer him?
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Apr 9, 2009 02:41
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two_beer_bishes posted:It turns out a guy from my work bought an '86 325e for the pristine interior so he can swap it into his '89 325i. He found out that I own an '85 325e and asked if I need any parts. I told him I wouldn't mind taking the engine (with wire harness), trans, and driveshaft from him since the car only has 60,000 miles on it (and runs perfectly). We started talking about pricing and he said he thinks he could get $1500 for the parts I'm asking for and I told him I'm in a position where I can reasonably afford $400-500 for it, plus I would need to drive to Memphis from Minneapolis to pick it up. I talked to him today and he didn't seem too happy about $400. I don't want to screw him (but I know he only paid $800 for the parts car anyway) but he knows that I'm a lowly peon and I don't get paid much. What do you guys think it fair to offer him? $400-600 is in the ball park. The fact that it only has 60k on it might motivate some people to buy it, but then again it's an eta engine so it's not like it's in demand like a super eta or M50 would be. That said you should buy it and look into making a 2.8L i stroker engine.
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Apr 9, 2009 02:51
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:$400-600 is in the ball park. The fact that it only has 60k on it might motivate some people to buy it, but then again it's an eta engine so it's not like it's in demand like a super eta or M50 would be. Actually my plan is to drop that engine into my car then take the summer to rebuild my current one and figure out a stroker/forced induction plan for it
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Apr 9, 2009 02:54
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$600 is absolutely as high as I'd go for that combo, especially if I had to pull it myself. Eta engines are a dime a dozen and low mileage isn't worth a whole lot on a motor that routinely hits 200k before any kind of rebuild. Hell, for $1500 you can almost get an s50 or a really good 2.8 m52 with tranny.
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Apr 9, 2009 03:04
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peterjmatt posted:$600 is absolutely as high as I'd go for that combo, especially if I had to pull it myself. Eta engines are a dime a dozen and low mileage isn't worth a whole lot on a motor that routinely hits 200k before any kind of rebuild. Thanks for the input. He will have everything out of the car ready for me to simply pick up and turn around...
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Apr 9, 2009 03:09
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Picked up my '85 325e on Tuesday. Drove it back to TO from Ottawa despite an April snow storm. Saw ditched cars left and right on the way there. And this: which led to this:  and this:  which lasted for 10 km. I have yet to get pictures of the car. The drive back was uneventful and the roads were dry. The car ran well.
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Apr 9, 2009 03:42
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So, I found a guy selling a e30 325i convert that's been kept in decent condition. Some rust but not too much, a lot of miles but runs/sounds great. What's a fair offer? I was thinking ~2.5k?
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Apr 9, 2009 04:10
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Tab8715 posted:So, I found a guy selling a e30 325i convert that's been kept in decent condition. Some rust but not too much, a lot of miles but runs/sounds great. What's a fair offer? I was thinking ~2.5k? Year, location, mileage? Anything major done to it? Without any real info I'd start at 1500 and go up to 2k if I wanted it bad enough. $2500 is a lot for a high mileage rusty e30 unless the owner has put some money into it already. I'd especially watch out for top issues and make sure that rust hasn't made it's way into anything structural...like the rear shock towers.
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Apr 9, 2009 04:39
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So, I'm losing oil. The car is a '90 325i, with an S52 swap done by Treehouse. It's mated to the stock 260 getrag Originally I thought it was just the valve cover gasket, which was infact leaking, but I'm still losing oil even after it was replaced. Just recently I noticed where it was going - after ragging on the car a bit, I noticed smoke coming from the top of the cats. There is no smoke from the exhaust, at WOT or otherwise, so I'm not burning oil - it's leaking somewhere. The leak ONLY seems to happen during hard driving. I see no drop on oil pressure. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the o-ring for the dipstick, but I see no leaks coming from it. The rear output seal on the trans was replaced recently. A week after, I saw no fluid on the rear of the tranny. There's quite a bit back there now (The whole tunnel around the driveshaft up to one or two feet behind the tranny seems wet). When the car is parked, it does not drip down like it did before I replaced the seal, so I don't think the tranny is the problem. Somehow oil is leaking under hard driving (High rpm, low gear accelleration) and wind is blowing it back onto the cats. I hope, anyway. I don't want to have to mess with replacing some of the transmission seals again. Any ideas to what is causing this?
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Apr 9, 2009 04:43
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