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I just re sprinkled after rains. powdered cayenne is really cheap and it's easy to mix a little in a sprayer. you can also make an infusion with the whole peppers and some water. just fill a container with water and peppers and let it set for a week. I don't suppose it could hurt to try the wax product though. has anyone here had any luck growing hanging cucumbers? I'm going to give it a shot this year, I'm thinking of using a hanging tomato type enclosure and some loose netting underneath, to give the plants support and plenty of room to grow.
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Apr 21, 2009 00:40
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I've started a vegetable garden indoors and want to know if I'm doing things as I should. I started with planting pepper and cactus seeds in peat moss pots, outside (under a covered alcove) two weeks ago but saw no signs of life so I brought them inside under a more controlled environment; I noticed their soil was drying out too quickly outside and watering them with a plastic water bottle seemed too caveman-ish. The setup: Peppers (assorted) - planted in small peat moss disintegrating pots using a 1/4" layer of Jungle Growth Cactuses (assorted) - planted in small peat moss disintegrating pots using a 1/2" layer of Jungle Growth, covered with glass plate (as instructed) Beefsteak Tomatoes - planted in small peat moss disintegrating pots using a 1/4" layer of Jungle Growth, loosely planted and loosely covered Beefsteak Tomatoes 2 - planted in small peat moss disintegrating pots using a 1/4" layer of Jungle Growth, firmly packed and firmly planted* Cucumbers - planted outside (as instructed) in peat moss pots, in a hanging coconut fiber flowerbed *(The reason for packing versus non-packing was pure science project; I want to see if packing makes any difference in growth) I water all seeds each morning by spritzing them 5-6 times with a water bottle to get the topsoil damp. They are in trays to catch any water that seeps through (which hasn't happened yet with exception to my first round of cactuses and peppers) They are in a room underneath a window. The soil does not receive direct sunlight and the light it does receive is indirect light from an afternoon (3pm - 7pm) sun in South FL. Internal temperature is 78 during the day, 73 at night. The instructions on the back of the seed packets weren't very specific in terms of watering or sunlight, so I don't really know what the hell I'm doing. Am I watering them correctly? Am I being overly concerned with worry about the depth I buried the seeds at? The directions were pretty specific ("plant 1/4" deep", "plant 1/2" deep", "plant 36 inches apart" [for the cucumbers], etc) and I'm worried that if I deviated by any degree that they won't grow. When a novice like me reads the directions as precise as they are, along with my improvised, uneducated watering schedule, it makes me wonder how the hell these things grew on their own in the wild to begin with. Waiting the 14 or 21 days it takes for the seeds to start growing is pretty brutal for the ego. Your thoughts or advice are welcome. Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Apr 21, 2009 |
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Apr 21, 2009 14:43
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Those are some pretty exacting instructions! But don't worry about deviating too much, When the instructions give measurements like that, they're just saying those are the distances for the optimal yield in ideal conditions. You may get slightly less yield come harvest time if they're too close, but as long as you give the plants room to grow you'll get good results. Don't worry if all you have is 8" pots and the directions for the tomatoes call for 10" pots, etc. The past couple of years I planted my lettuce and leafy veg way too close together and in addition to getting jaded in the middle of the year and forgetting to harvest & water them, the plants weren't anywhere near as big as they could have been. This year I've given them a lot more space so I should get more yield and the garden overall will be more forgiving as I pick the leaves off different plants during the year. As for your watering, morning time is best, although I don't think it's as critical for indoor plants.
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Apr 21, 2009 14:57
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Orgasmo posted:I've started a vegetable garden indoors and want to know if I'm doing things as I should. I started with planting pepper and cactus seeds in peat moss pots, outside (under a covered alcove) two weeks ago but saw no signs of life so I brought them inside under a more controlled environment; I noticed their soil was drying out too quickly outside and watering them with a plastic water bottle seemed too caveman-ish. I think a lot of times reccomended planting depth is a bit on the deep side. A good guide is to only plant a seed as deep as it is wide. Other than big seeds, I only basically sprinkle the top. I am assuming by 'Jungle Growth' you mean the potting mix, not actual Jungle Growth? Another thing to try if you aren't seeing any germination is using a seed starting mix, which is sterile and very fine. Seeds and seedlings are sensitive to mold and damping off, the reason for using something sterile. You want a seed to have good contact with soil, but if there is too much heavy soil packed on to them they won't be able to poke through. Until seedlings emerge, you do not need light for any of those vegetables, but I am not sure about the cactus. What they do need is heat and constant light moisture. A good way to do this is a tray of some sort covered in plastic wrap, or a plastic greenhouse you can buy for a few dollars at the store, doesn't matter. You want to put a bit of water in the bottom. You will be able to see the water being drawn up by the peat pot, you only want enough to have it damp, not soaking wet. When in a tray and covered in plastic this is really all the water it will need for a few days. Overwatering can mold the seed before it has a chance to germinate. Time to germinate depends on conditions. Put them somewhere warm (actually 75 is just about ideal) and wait, checking daily for growth and to make sure it hasn't dried out. At the very first sign of green get them out of plastic and into the light. I am assuming you are past the frost already in Florida, so go right outside with it. If you let them grow inside before putting them out you will have to harden it off too, adding another step. Just a south Florida heads up: Spring and Autumn are easier for growing tomatoes where it gets very hot. Tomato pollen becomes sterile at temperatures over 85ish and no pollination = no fruit. Also, sunscalding can be a problem. If you are itching to try them in summer make sure they can get some shade at the hottest part of the day. Full sun at the ideal 70-75 degrees isn't the same as full sun in a 90-100 degree climate. Just something to keep in mind.
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Apr 21, 2009 15:19
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Planting depth isn't too important. It's more of a problem for the REALLY tiny seeds, like for radishes or even poppies. If the seeds are small, the closer they have to be to the surface. If they're planted too deep, the seedling will run out of energy stored in the seed before it makes it to the surface and can begin making its own energy. There are other factors too, like how dense the soil is, sunlight, etc. All mentions of the spacing between plants is based on ideally how big the adult plant will get. That number is there to give you an idea of how far apart to plant the seeds so that if they were never moved, each plant will never be crowded by its neighbors. Here's how to get seeds to germinate: Basically, you need to reproduce Spring in your little pots. That means 3 things: 1. water 2. heat 3. some light Heat and water are the big ones. Room temperature is pretty good for starting most seeds. "Springtime" also means Spring rains. That means soaked soil. Watering is usually the hardest one to maintain. Most seed starting kits will include some method for completely covering the pots so that humidity can't escape. Did your trays come with covers? If not, you could just use any non-opaque plastic bag to cover it, even a garbage bag. Use your breath to blow some air into it before sealing it, that will help keep the plastic up and off of the seedlings. Water it every few days. Once your seedlings start emerging, you can remove the cover. Keep in mind that once the cover is off, the whole tray will dry out faster. Once you see no more seedlings emerging, you can then move it to a sunnier location. After a week or so, move it outside for the seedlings to "harden" (basically, adapt to their new environment). After a few days, plant them.
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Apr 21, 2009 15:26
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My herbs are doing well so far, I need to find suitable pots for them once they've gotten a little bigger but I'm having no luck right now. I planted some jalapenos and spicy chili today. Its a shame they take forever to germinate and grow. I'll repeat my question from earlier: for pods that have multiple seeds growing in them, should I cut out all but the strongest sprouts?
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Apr 22, 2009 03:00
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Blue_monday posted:My herbs are doing well so far, I need to find suitable pots for them once they've gotten a little bigger but I'm having no luck right now. If they are still tiny I would leave two or three until they start competing with each other, and then decide which one is the strongest. If they are already competing with each other, then pick the strongest one with the thickest stem. More pictures of the "garden". This is what I was doing on Patriots day. Digging out the tree out of the corner of the yard  Stumps removed  As I continue to dig, I found out that those stumps were the least of my problems. I have a large maple tree 50 feet away that has spread deep roots in every direction.  There were occasional roots that I was able to yank out until I came to a thicket and kept digging and found this:  As I dug deeper I found three root trunk all braided around each other. The deepest one is about 3 inches in diameter, and almost two feet deep.  My back is beyond sore and there is so much left to do. I'm thinking I'm going to miss out on planting spring crops, and will settle for stuff this summer. I'm so envious of all your pictures of beautiful plants. Perhaps I can still get a crop of bush beans and when they are done I will still have enough time for a crop of carrots, beets and turnips for fall storage. I might also plant pumpkins and squash where I've dug already and keep digging the rest before the vines cover it. The good news is the soil is amazing. It is this rich loam, the topsoil is a deep rich greyish mahogany brown 18 inches deep and even the subsoil is loose and free of rocks. I'm finding worms two feet deep. Zeta Taskforce fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Apr 22, 2009 |
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Apr 22, 2009 06:07
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HeatherChandler posted:A good guide is to only plant a seed as deep as it is wide. Whew, lots of good info there. All I know is that it is Jungle Growth, it may not be potting or seed mix. I'll confirm but I suspect that its just leftover soil from a recommendation made to me by a Lowe's garden specialist when I asked him about planting the Persian Lime. For all I know, it could not be ideal seed mix at all. If my current seeds don't make it, I'll definitely change up the mix and try again. I like the idea of a small greenhouse and will look into getting one, especially for the cactuses because of the glass requirement from the seed package directions. I didn't know the peat pots draw up water. Duh. That makes water much much easier and makes it less likely I'll disturb or knock around the implanted seeds while I'm watering. Does the soil also need to be constantly damp? Will the soil draw enough water from the peat pot, to the center, where the seeds are buried? We are definitely past frost. Our only frost warning was back in late January/early Feb. It is now a balmy 75-85 or so with high winds. Didn't know that about tomato pollen, man that's good to know. I know for sure I can have at least 3 vines under shade during the hottest part of the day, the rest of the plans I'll probably give away to my parents or friends since I planted more than enough seeds. And for once a goon is going to pray for bees.  Do wasps pollinate too? I've seen them gather around my Persian Lime, sometimes it looks like they are chewing one or two of the leaves, presumably to make their evil lairs.
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Apr 22, 2009 15:43
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Orgasmo posted:Whew, lots of good info there. The soil will draw enough water--actually as you see the peat pot wet up towards the top you will be able to see that the soil is damp as well. Watering is just a bit of judgement, especially in peat where they tend to dry out quicker. You want it damp to the touch, but not sopping wet. Watering from the bottom helps with this. What you really need to worry about is night temperatures, to clarify. Sunscald is a problem during the day, but sustained high temps (above 60-70) at night are what sterlize pollen. Tomatoes at least don't neccessarily need bees to pollinate, you can give them a little shake daily (you don't have to usually) to help it along and they will take care of themselves. I am not trying to overcomplicate things, really. I have a friend near Orlando who does a few tomatoes and told me she put plants out in early March and has tomatoes setting now. I am just worried you will be put off if you do all the work and don't get any results because of the weather. Here is Florida specific planting information from UFL's agricultural extension, something that you might want to read through: Florida Gardening Guide Crop Guides HeatherChandler fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Apr 22, 2009 |
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Apr 22, 2009 16:37
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 SIGNS OF LIFEWell, partially. Last night while watering my nursery (using the new bottom-up method, works great by the way) I saw something peculiar... Here's the nursery:  Forgive the fruitiness of it, it's an unused wooden shelf my wife was going to toss anyway. From left to right, I've got a shitload of various salsa peppers, tomatoes, cactuses, then more tomatoes on the middle rack. taking a closer look at the cactus peat pots...  Despite pretty heavy watering and a soil mix I have yet to identify as anything beyond "Jungle Growth", nature has found a way. The cactuses germinated faster than my first batch of peppers even thought both were planted at the same time. I think the advantage was due to the glass being placed over the soil, keeping the seeds in a moist environment. It's time to invest in a small greenhouse. Should I wait and let them get a little bigger before putting them outdoors in medium pots, or should I start moving them out asap? There are also multiple sprouts, I'll delicately try separating them into their own peat pots before transplanting outdoors.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:23
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I think you let them develop leaves and such first before planting them out, but I have no clue about cactuses.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:27
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Would anyone be interested in shipping plants? I have some stuff that I'd be willing to propagate.
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Apr 23, 2009 17:20
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Wooo! We have little carrots and beetlings growing in our wine vat! I went out to check on the planties this morning and sure enough, there were itty bitty sprouts coming up from the soil. Of course, three days of unseasonally warm weather probably helped with that, but dude - we're gonna have carrots and beets! YAY!
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Apr 23, 2009 19:45
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Very cool  I'd recommend planting some chives amongst the carrots, it helps stop the carrot fly from planting its larvae on your carrots. They don't take up much space like onions would and they're good to add to anything!
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Apr 23, 2009 20:08
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krushgroove posted:Very cool Excellent suggestion seeing how our chives in our aerogrow garden are kinda lackluster (yes, I have one of those outrageously priced hydroponic gardens as seen on TV...but to be fair I got it on sale for $40) so I'll pick up some seeds soon! Question: my boyfriend (the carrots are his project so he's doing the research) says that once the carrots and beets are large enough to move, we plant them in rows to give them space. Should we plant the chives before or after this?
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Apr 23, 2009 21:08
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The chives I've planted outside have been fairly hardy, growing all summer, autumn and through a mild UK winter, so I would say just sow the seeds and let them grow as much as they want.
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Apr 23, 2009 21:14
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Anyone ever make potato sets and plant potatoes from a big sack of grocery store potatoes? If I get Maine potatoes, odds are they will be a good, solid, old, tried and true variety like Red Norland or Kennebec that does well in the North East. I guess the direction that I am coming from is I don’t know when I will be ready so I am reluctant to start seeds and buy more expensive sets that can’t be planted when they need to be planted, so I am looking for the cheapest, easiest ways to fill up the space and for at least this year I’m not too picky with what I get.
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Apr 23, 2009 21:33
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I just bought a new gardening tool today. Inside of 3 hours it became my favorite garden tool of all time. It's called the "hori-hori". It was invented in Japan (the name means "dig-dig") as a 'do-it-all' for rockclimbers who recover bonsai from cliff faces. Imagine a cross between a garden trowel and a Bowie knife:  You could kill somebody with this thing.  Basically, it's a trowel that is 2 inches wide, 7 inches long and THICK. Both edges are ground down, one to a knife, the other is serrated for root-cutting saw action. Both blades come together at the point, and this thing just plunged effortlessly into the worst ground I have on my property (rocks, tree roots & heavy clay). As they're Japanese, they are graduated in millimeters in 25's, but if you remember your grade school math, 25mm is almost equal to 1". At $25 it's a little more expensive than a trowel, but it's worth it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Apr 24, 2009 |
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Apr 24, 2009 01:31
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kid sinister posted:rockclimbers who recover bonsai from cliff faces  But that is very cool though. However, you forgot to provide a link. e: found some online, they're £25 but not shaped like a trowel:   I like the trowel shape a little better, even though I have a trowel. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Apr 24, 2009 |
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Apr 24, 2009 10:52
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krushgroove posted:Gardening: It's More Metal Than You'll Ever Know 
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Apr 24, 2009 13:16
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Yeah I can just imagine Buddhist monks defending their bonsai from ninja gardeners with these things. A lot of medieval weapons came from gardening implements actually. On a more on-topic note, my cress has reached approximately 1 inch in height, and the other microgreens I planted out a week and a half ago (or so) have started sprouting. I'll be getting more seed packets next week, stocking up for the summer. There's like 3000 seeds in a cress seed packet, that's enough for a while
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Apr 24, 2009 14:35
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krushgroove posted:But that is very cool though. However, you forgot to provide a link. They actually are trowel shaped, it's just hard to see in the pictures. There is a definite dip in the blade. In my pictures, the first picture is concave-down, the second concave-up. In yours, the first picture is concave-up, your second picture the left is concave-down, the right is concave-up. I bought mine from a local landscaping supply wholesaler. I paid $22.20 for a stainless steel one with a (chinsy) leather sheathe. I'd give their link, but they have a $50 minimum for internet orders. You could try Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1240582452/ref=sr_nr_seeall_6?ie=UTF8&rs=&keywords=hori%20hori&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ahori%20hori%2Ci%3Atools. Just make sure that you're getting a stainless steel one, that should hold up to garden use better without getting rusty than the carbon steel ones I've seen.
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Apr 24, 2009 15:44
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krushgroove posted:Yeah I can just imagine Buddhist monks defending their bonsai from ninja gardeners with these things. A lot of medieval weapons came from gardening implements actually. I really want a hori hori now, I just replanted a small tree and that sucker would have made it three times faster.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:06
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Right, I see the concavity (?) when I look really close. But yeah...definitely want one. Who wouldn't want to wear a freakin' knife on their waist when they do the drat gardening?
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Apr 24, 2009 16:17
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Zeta Taskforce posted:Anyone ever make potato sets and plant potatoes from a big sack of grocery store potatoes? If I get Maine potatoes, odds are they will be a good, solid, old, tried and true variety like Red Norland or Kennebec that does well in the North East. I have 8 of them growing right now. wait until the potatoes sprout eyes, cut them into sections, with one sprout per section, and plant. very simple.
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Apr 25, 2009 18:48
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Hey everyone, I've never done any gardening whatsoever, and we just bought a house and I'd love to get a vegetable/herb garden going. I'm clueless. I'm in south-central Kansas, in the 6a zone. I'm thinking of going to Wal-Mart and getting some of those peat pellets that some of you have mentioned. My main problem right now is that I'm unsure as to what would grow here. I'm interested in potatoes, peas, peppers, and beans. Any tips on what to grow, and how to start? Are the peat pellets a good idea? Thank you so much in advance.
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Apr 25, 2009 23:20
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qentiox posted:Hey everyone, I've never done any gardening whatsoever, and we just bought a house and I'd love to get a vegetable/herb garden going. I'm clueless. I think that south central Kansas would be a gardener's dream, assuming you had decent light and water, and depending on the time of year you could grow virtually anything. What you grow more than anything else depends on what you like to eat. I would plant peas ASAP, everything else you mentioned after last chance of frost. Once the peas die in early to mid summer you could experiment with planting crops to harvest in the fall. You don't have to start your own plants, and if you have never gardened before, there is no shame in buying transplants for peppers and tomatoes, and whatever else you want.
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Apr 26, 2009 00:12
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Does anyone know what kind of plant this is? My neighbor gave it to me after I gave him a bananna tree. He only speaks German or I would ask him. I'm in central florida Click here for the full 600x800 image. Subliminal fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Apr 26, 2009 |
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Apr 26, 2009 00:19
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Jesus, an entire week of torrential rains, thunder storms and heavy winds. Good thing I was lazy about planting so far. I really do need to get some seed in the ground, though. And my poor strawberries are going to end up drowning and losing their blossoms.
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Apr 27, 2009 07:04
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Just picked up some dried goji berries, I'm going to soak several of them in water and plant them out. Hopefully I'll have some bushes soon, apparently it takes up to 2-3 years for them to mature enough to produce the fruit.
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Apr 27, 2009 12:38
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krushgroove posted:Just picked up some dried goji berries, I'm going to soak several of them in water and plant them out. Hopefully I'll have some bushes soon, apparently it takes up to 2-3 years for them to mature enough to produce the fruit. You could probably save a year or so if you bought the plant: http://www.gardeners.com/Goji-Berry-Wolf-Berry/37-511,default,pd.html
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Apr 27, 2009 15:51
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Yeah I'm going to try to find some, I just happened across the dried berries in a health food store so I figured why not try planting them. I'm always trying to plant cuttings and stuff, I have a baby oak tree that's a couple months old and a chestnut planted also.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:24
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Here is an update on the progress of my peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, and earthtainer experiment. It has been a pain in the rear end to secure buckets on the cheap. I have about 10 so far, but need a lot more. I am going to transplant a few of my plants today in the ones I have completed. This will give me more room under my lights for the remaining indoor ones. They are going to be in a sun room until late May, so I am not worried about the frost. (Central Ohio) As usual, I took some pictures of them. Peppers Black Cuban  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Cajamarca  Click here for the full 700x525 image. California Wonder  Click here for the full 700x525 image. NuMex Eclipse  Click here for the full 700x525 image. NuMex Pinata  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Pimient de Espelette  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Takanotsume  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Tomatoes and Eggplant Giant Belgian  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Kosovo  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Paul Robeson  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Tumbling Tom  Click here for the full 700x525 image. Fairy Tale - Eggplant  Click here for the full 700x525 image. The tomatoes, for the most part, look pretty similar at this point. The peppers, on the other hand, are showing their different characteristics. I am really happy with the progress. They are on a regiment of Big Bloom and Grow Big. They have been growing under a New Wave T5 – 44. osukeith161 fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 21:31
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Subliminal posted:Does anyone know what kind of plant this is? My neighbor gave it to me after I gave him a bananna tree. He only speaks German or I would ask him. I'm in central florida It looks like Stevia. Crush a leaf and put it to your tongue and see if it's sweet.
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Apr 27, 2009 21:55
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 My strawberries went from sheer foliage and green to bursting out in blossoms literally overnight. I know this because last night I planted rhubarb and chives and checked the berries before I went inside.   I'm so excited.
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Apr 28, 2009 03:20
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GBK posted:It looks like Stevia. Crush a leaf and put it to your tongue and see if it's sweet. Not to say that there couldn't be several kinds of Stevia... nor do I know what the plant is... but it doesn't look anything like my Stevia: 
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Apr 28, 2009 20:11
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So way back on pg :blrgcough:, I said I'd post some more info about how to do microgreens. OMG did I: http://communev01.blogspot.com/2009/04/lesson-in-microgreens.html I'm linking it because I don't want to bother everyone here with such a ridiculous long post. But here's a taste: 1. Buy seeds:  2. Prepare a tray:  3. Water and cover:  4. Wait:  5. Harvest:  6. Eat and/or be impressed with yourself: 
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Apr 28, 2009 21:13
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That's excellent, dude The first planter I did I covered with newspaper for a couple of days until the sprouts started coming up, the next few I just sowed the seeds and watered but didn't cover them and they took a lot longer to sprout, but they finally are. Long story short: cover the seeds with wet newspaper for a few days
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Apr 28, 2009 21:48
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I have worked myself in a tizzy. I know a thousand times over that you are NOT supposed to handle tomatoes after smoking since it is very possible that your cigarettes have tobacco mosaic virus infected leaves in it, and it survives proccessing. I have drilled this into my head. I wash my hands several times in between handling plants and after smoking. I was outside smoking today and saw a tiny green caterpillar on one of my plants and immediately thought I better pick it off and inspect the rest of them for bugs. ACK! I was even going to make myself a little no smoking sign and attach it to the tray but I thought 'nah, I've been growing tomatoes for years and always remembered, I don't need a sign.' So now I am all worried and paranoid about it. The amount of attention I have given these drat things and now I am afraid of waking up to diseased plants. I've got all heirlooms this year so no disease resistance. I knew I should have stayed quit. They look pretty, but I just dont *get* microgreens. I'd have to plant a ridiculous area of microgreens to really put a dent in the greens I eat. Are they meant to make up a whole salad? Are you growing any other lettuces? HeatherChandler fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 28, 2009 |
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Apr 28, 2009 23:40
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HeatherChandler posted:They look pretty, but I just dont *get* microgreens. I'd have to plant a ridiculous area of microgreens to really put a dent in the greens I eat. Are they meant to make up a whole salad? Are you growing any other lettuces? We eat a crap load of greens; the microgreens are about a third of what we eat. We have 3 lettuce patches, chard, etc, planted elsewhere. But microgreens add potent flavor in small amounts, are ridiculously nutritious (much better than the full plant which has more water), and take little effort and little money. They can grow inside or outside in any season. You can grow many different flavors and the payoff is nearly immediate. (Takes less than two weeks before harvest.) Sometimes we use them to add a extra flavor to something (a sandwich, a bowl of soup, ramen, or a salad made from fully grown lettuce or whatever) or to make a salad themselves (as shown in the picture above with the grapefruit and chicken) or as a snack whenever we walk by (very common around here). There are 8 of us living at my house and we are looking for sustainability and frugality. The most nutrition for the cheapest price that we can do ourselves. Microgreens are a great addition to that.
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Apr 29, 2009 00:05
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