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The best part is the ice cube tray wheel chock.
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Apr 6, 2009 03:07
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InterceptorV8 posted:The best part is the ice cube tray wheel chock. Their actually snow traction things, although now that you mention it.. Anyway, I need to get a welder, and I saw sears has this welder which looks like it would be good for doing sheet metal work. Anything thicker than sheet metal will be jobbed out to someone with experience. Are there any other welders in the $300 price range I should be looking for? This is one of the least expensive models I have found that include the hookups for gas.
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Apr 10, 2009 00:25
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I would try bargaining at the pawn shop.
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Apr 10, 2009 01:42
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Mooecow posted:On Wednesday I drained the oil/water combo. I then tried to add fresh oil. I added the 5 quarts of oil already, all while completely oblivious to the fact the engine was hemorrhaging oil from the push rod side of the engine. At first I thought that the block was cracked, so I pulled the push rod cover. You shouldn't have bothered putting oil in the crankcase. I guarantee you with that 40 years sitting, the cylinders and rings and completely useless piles of rust now. Not to mention the journals on the crank and cam. The oil in the motor isn't doing any good especially since you dont know if it will turn over (it won't) or how badly it's seized (locked up solid) Attempting to put oil in the cylinders and turning it over with a breaker probably won't hurt, but a better idea is to pull the head first and see the condition of the cylinders and everything first. There's no way that motor's going to run anyway without at the very least pulling the head and doing a lot of other stuff. I admit at first after the first post I was thinking "There's no way this guy will come even close to even getting that pile of poo poo rolling" but looks like you've done a bit already and the 2nd set of pics aren't the worst thing ever either. But be aware, like everyone said this project will be measured in decades and cost tens of thousands of dollars.
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Apr 10, 2009 02:19
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Mooecow posted:Anything thicker than sheet metal will be jobbed out to someone with experience. Not sure how much you know about welding, or exactly why you said this, but sheetmetal is far more difficult to weld than thick stuff. I'd be farming out the thin stuff, or at least practicing on stuff that isn't your project until you get good at not burning holes right through it. And if you are at all interested in running the original motor, I'd also vote for tearing it down and rebuilding it without even trying to start it. Last thing you need is to fix a hole you knocked in the side of the block because a rod let go after the first few revolutions. Anyway, enough negativity - great project, I'll be watching with interest.
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Apr 10, 2009 03:53
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Mooecow posted:Every male relative I can think of has said "I'll restore it!" and promptly gotten nowhere, so, hell i'll give it a shot. And thus, the lineage of males in Mooecow's family continue their relentless struggle. Seriously though, cool truck and good luck. It takes real dedication to go after a project like this. I cannot imagine spending years on any singular project that didn't terminate in me getting into a lady's ropa interior.
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Apr 10, 2009 04:21
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Even if he fails miserably at this restoration, he can take that awesome door off and hang it over the fireplace in the livingroom. I would.
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Apr 10, 2009 05:08
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Don't worry, the rusty beast hasn't killed me yet. I got my welder and have been practicing with it. It is easier then a thought it would be, although I did burn through a few times in the beginning. To pull the engine, I needed to get the front bumper/mounts off first. What was supposed to be easy took forever. The dairy put a pair of Divco milk truck bumpers on the front to push dead trucks around. That seemed to have caused the bolts to fuse to the frame. A few drill bits, a lot of swearing and they are now out.  Begone yee bolts! I am going to have my uncle help me pull the engine. Considering I have never pulled an engine before, a mechanics assistance might not be a bad thing. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Apr 20, 2009 21:25
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aventari posted:I admit at first after the first post I was thinking "There's no way this guy will come even close to even getting that pile of poo poo rolling" but looks like you've done a bit already and the 2nd set of pics aren't the worst thing ever either. Yeah, I thought it was garbage based on the first pictures, but so far I'm impressed. It is in a lot better shape than I thought it was. Nice work.
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Apr 20, 2009 21:38
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I have hit a snag and need some advice. I'm trying to remove the front drive shaft so I can take out the transmission. Everything went ok, except one of the u-bolts on the trunnion bearing is frozen on. I tried a hammer etc and nothing will get the drat thing off. Is there a tool I can use or some simple way of cutting it off without doing any damage to anything else? Heres two pictures of the problem:   EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Apr 25, 2009 04:01
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I'd drop the carrier bearing if necessary and take the yoke out of the bearing cap. Be not afraid of heat and hammers.
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Apr 25, 2009 04:17
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Normally we do this while the driveshaft is out of the vehicle but it will work either way depending on how brave you are. Heat that fucker with a torch until the grease cooks off and the cap will fly the gently caress off. It will explode off the u joint with a lot of force but it will come off. If you aren't as adventurous you could probably dremel cut the u bolt off and hit it repeatedly with a hammer. This method relies on the fact that there is still grease packed around the needle bearings.
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Apr 25, 2009 04:17
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I say cut the U-Joint strap (the U-Shaped thing you can't get off) right where it comes out of the yoke with an angle grinder. The driveshaft should pop right out then, and then you can worry about pounding out the rest of the strap nuts with a hammer and center punch. Those U-Joint straps are literally $1 each.
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Apr 25, 2009 04:20
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If you have a blue tipped wrench go that route, it's the most fun. But if you don't a sawzall will take care of it. Just cut two legs off the cross. OR I guess you could cut the strap, but I would use a short metal cutting blade on the sawzall before I'd gently caress around with an angle grinder. Also, when you start looking for nuts and bolts for this Fleet farm/TSC sells grade 8 by the pound. Was talking about it in another thread, it might save you some money.
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Apr 25, 2009 13:56
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Jack_Handey posted:I say cut the U-Joint strap (the U-Shaped thing you can't get off) right where it comes out of the yoke with an angle grinder. The driveshaft should pop right out then, and then you can worry about pounding out the rest of the strap nuts with a hammer and center punch. Those U-Joint straps are literally $1 each. That's what I always do, it's the most cost/time effective solution.
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Apr 25, 2009 17:02
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Thanks for the advice for removing the u-joint. It put up the good fight, but I won in the end.   Hmmmm, something doesn't seem right here.... I was able to remove the transmission faster then I had expected. Moving it around once I lowered it, however, was a pain the rear end. The cart I was going to use to roll it out from under was a bit too tall for the transmission to clear the frame, so I had to pull it out on a piece of cardboard. I also went through and disconnected everything from the engine, so all that is stopping me from pulling it is 4 mounting bolts. I hope to pull the engine next weekend. My uncle was nice enough to loan me an engine hoist:  As for the engine stand, I am looking at the Harbor Freight 2000 lbs. engine stand. I was originally looking at the 1000 lbs. version, but better safe then sorry when dealing with that much weight. Today is the one month anniversary of the truck getting delivered. I dare say it has changed a bit:  And because I love the door so much, here is another picture of it.  EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Apr 26, 2009 23:37
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You may want to think about getting a different cab and bolting your doors or doorskins on it. You've got some difficult rust repair ahead. I don't mean to discourage you, you've done a lot more to that truck in the time you've had it than I've done to mine. Keep up the good work. And if you go at it the hard way, well more power to ya. Keep postin pictures.
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Apr 27, 2009 06:02
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Awesome car, but i see a usual project problem: We all are encouraged about the new car and get to work taking it apart, forgetting that this is the easy part, even if it doesnt seem like it at the time. Im at the wetsanding stage.... soooo muuuch waaaater!
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Apr 27, 2009 15:43
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 SWEET MOTHER OF RUST, WHERE DID IT GO?!?!  Ah, there you are. What are you doing over there? Silly truck, you can't fit in there. I am going to pull the engine tomorrow, so I had to move it in front of the garage. Moving it was so much easier this time then when it first got here. My dad and my brother were able to push it without any problems. Hopefully everything will go smoothly tomorrow. I checked today, and all the motor mount bolts loosened up pretty easily.  EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jul 19, 2011 |
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May 3, 2009 01:00
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Thank god, I thought I'd lost this thread the other day. Sweet truck, not nearly in as bad a condition as we all first feared. Can you get a hi-res shot of that door please?
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May 3, 2009 11:15
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Pulled the engine today. Only a few things went wrong. I first forgot to unbolt the starter pedal bracket from the bell housing. After a minute of wondering why a floating engine refused to move away from the cab, I spotted my dumb mistake. Then I went to unbolt the bell housing from the block. There are four bolts that need to be removed. Two of the bolts are easily visible and can be removed no problem. The other two, however, are a pain in the rear end. The bolts in connect the clutch to the flywheel need to be removed. This in itself isn't hard, except when your engine is seized. Without being able to spin the flywheel, it is impossible to get to the bolts on top. So now I have to start disassembling the engine in order to try to free it up before I can put it on the engine stand, largely defeating the purpose of the stand in the first place. So for now, it is resting on it's mounts on some wood.  I then started to tear down the engine. I removed the rocker arms, rocker shaft, pushrod side cover, and pushrods in preparation for pulling the head. Somehow I missed one of the head bolts, so after a couple attempts at lifting to head to no avail, I finally saw the last bolt. In my defense, the bolt wasn't in line with the others, it was in toward the center and obscured by the rocker shaft.  Once I found that bolt, the head came off easily. Here are a couple pics of the bottom of the head. Needless to say it is in desperate need of a good cleaning.  There is still plenty of mystery oil in all the cylinders. The walls of the cylinders look pretty good with only minor surface rust. However, there were a couple of small acorns in one of the cylinders. Pushing the truck back behind the house was really easy once the engine was out. For most of the way my brother was able to push by himself. Now that the head is off the block, do I have to store either a special way to make sure they don't rust or corrode? Cakefool - Here is a bigger copy of the door you wanted: Big door EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jul 19, 2011 |
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May 4, 2009 00:27
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I drained out all the mystery oil from the cylinders. The cylinders and pistons were coated in silt and grime. One the cylinders had a few small acorns in it. Here are a few pictures after I cleaned all the silt out of the cylinders.   Does anyone know what the markings on the piston in the last picture mean? I am assuming the 060 means the engine has been bored. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Jul 31, 2011 |
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May 6, 2009 16:32
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Mooecow posted:Does anyone know what the markings on the piston in the last picture mean? I am assuming the 060 means the engine has been bored. InterceptorV8 posted:FYI dump the 216 and get a later 235, full oil pressure with real bearings. no splash oiling with poured babbit. stovebolt.com posted:There are parts suppliers who now sell rocker arm covers, shortened water pumps and pushrod covers to make a 235 virtually indistinguishable from a real 216. Most of the parts vendors also have swap kits to allow you to complete this entire procedure without having to fabricate anything yourself. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 17:24 on May 6, 2009 |
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May 6, 2009 16:45
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I guess he wouldn't be able to get away with just honing the cylinders and installing a new set of rings (and maybe pistons)?
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May 6, 2009 19:54
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Simkin posted:I guess he wouldn't be able to get away with just honing the cylinders and installing a new set of rings (and maybe pistons)?
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May 6, 2009 20:19
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It looks like most of the rust is surface, but if there are heavy ridges/grooves of rust where the pistons sat, then crosshatching may not be able to remedy that. I don't have any experience with refinishing bores, though, so I may be just talking out of my rear end.
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May 6, 2009 20:32
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Whooo, restoration is underway. Have you figured out what you're going to do with the cab yet?
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May 6, 2009 22:55
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Whooo, restoration is underway. Have you figured out what you're going to do with the cab yet?
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May 7, 2009 01:58
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I jacked up the front of the cab today. Between the amount of rusted out sections and the existing shoddy repairs, it isn't looking good for the cab. Both front door pillars have disconnected from the rocker panel, causing the cab to go out of square. The passenger side pillar to rocker arm connection was shoddily repaired before it was parked with an angle iron and some bolts. To buy all the patch panels for the cab, it would cost about $700. Even then, there is no guarantee that the cab will ever sit square. I am still following a few leads on some much less rusty cabs. In less depressing news, I decided to pull the rear axle in order to prep the frame to be cleaned and painted with por-15.  I was hoping to also be able to get the leaf springs out today, but the bushing that holds the main leaf spring would not give up. I hit it with a hammer and it would not budge at all. Next step is a bar and a sledgehammer. I also got the last screw that was holding the oil pan on.  Two of the cylinders are taking the PB Blaster I have been giving them. The other four have yet to take any. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jul 31, 2011 |
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May 11, 2009 01:29
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I just saw this thread for the first time and I want to say that I also love the door.
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May 11, 2009 02:45
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i think a competent machine shop could take care of that engine. ive seen worse condition engines become daily runners. as far as the cab situation goes, it seems like you are on the right track to track one down. also, the cab is deceptively light and can be lifted of with 4 guys. now- heres the real question, say you do find a new cab, how are you going to make the coolest door on earth match? i would try to save the cab, it wont be pretty, but i think patina rules all LobsterboyX fucked around with this message at 04:48 on May 11, 2009 |
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May 11, 2009 04:45
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LobsterboyX posted:i would try to save the cab, it wont be pretty, but i think patina rules all I agree. Makes good practice *and* you can brag about how you restored it later 
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May 11, 2009 05:04
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At the very least, take some extremely high resolution photos of that door so that if you decide to go non-patina on the restoration, you can have it reproduced either in vinyl or custom paint. Looking good man!
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May 11, 2009 05:23
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Mooecow posted:And because I love the door so much, here is another picture of it.
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May 11, 2009 05:27
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Mooecow posted:Both front door pillars have disconnected from the rocker panel, causing the cab to go out of square. The passenger side pillar to rocker arm connection was shoddily repaired before it was parked with an angle iron and some bolts. Same issue on my Bronco project, although only on one side. I think I was able to get it jacked back into place and braced up...time will tell.
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May 11, 2009 05:42
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EnergizerFellow posted:I love that door so much I'd have it mounted on my wall. A replacement door should be easy enough to find and it's easy to fab up a brace to have the original door wall mounted. Just saying.
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May 11, 2009 10:35
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Mooecow posted:I'm following some leads on a few good condition cabs out of the midwest, of course being in Connecticut shipping would be a tad pricey. On Sunday I'm going to jack up the front of the cab so it's back where it should be and see how everything lines up. Hopefully with the cab back in place and braced I can get away with welding in new patch panels. Sup fellow Connecticut goon. Where are you located? I love this project, and the zeal with which you have attacked it. Nthing the calls for Rat Rod treatment.
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May 11, 2009 14:13
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If your going to have a cab shipped, ship it from a non rust area, forget the Midwest, nothing but over priced junk here, California or someplace without snow is where you need to be.
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May 11, 2009 14:48
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Did a bit more work on the truck today. After plenty of encouragement I was able to remove the leaf springs. I also went through and removed the fuel and brake lines. Oddly enough, there was a brake line coming off the drivers front wheel but it just randomly ended and didn't connect to the master cylinder. As for the door, I have a spare one. Once I saw the door I knew that I could never bring myself to strip the original paint off. If I end up getting a new cab, I will end up painting the entire truck and have the door reproduced. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jul 31, 2011 |
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May 11, 2009 21:27
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Okay, now what you do is chop the cabin, section the floor so it sits lower on the frame, and drop the whole thing to the ground  Really loving that cabin though, I'd keep it just as it is, a lot of the ACVW guys use wax to keep their
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May 11, 2009 22:02
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