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In a perfect world, there's a slim chance that various amounts of heat and cold and a very, very good charger could bring it back to ~60% of it's original life, but that's a hilariously long shot.
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May 5, 2009 06:47
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I just came across this site on rctech and I thought that I would share. Lots of memories. http://www93.sakura.ne.jp/~time-tunnel/index.html
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May 5, 2009 07:19
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Just picked up an rc10gt with a spare parts chassis. I should have yet another rc10gt on the way from a friend. I think I'm going to look at things and see if I can't convert one of the trucks to a rally car. I'm thinking arms off of a b3 or b4 should probably do the trick. Any ideas on front wheels that will take a 26mm tire? Now what I really need is a Lancia Stratos body, but I think the wheelbase is probably a bit too long for that. Other questions: There's no gotchas on using an Airtronics servo on my Futaba receiver right? Aside from having to change the pinout on the plug perhaps? What kind of steering servo do nitro touring car guys usually use? I have a high torque on mine right now, but I'm not sure it's necessary.
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May 8, 2009 03:51
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No problem. I believe if you use it the other way around you have to clip off that loving little nub that Futaba puts on all their servos and such. I was using an Airtronics receiver with a Futaba servo for a long time, just have to be careful of polarity when plugging it in. Now I'm using a Associated DS1015 servo in my Durga and it could move buildings.
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May 8, 2009 04:23
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kuffs posted:Just picked up an rc10gt with a spare parts chassis. I should have yet another rc10gt on the way from a friend. I too have similar aspirations to make a frankenmobile. I am not sure that making a rally car out of a truck would be very succesful though, it may be easier to fit longer a arms to the touring car you have and rally tires of course. I am going to try something similar, only I am going to try to make it closer to scale. If not that, I will try to make it into a short course truck. Right now, I have an HPI RS4 MT that I just put back together and worked out some cobwebs on. I just happened to have a set of proline sand paws laying around and decided to pop those on it. After a while of running it, I came across a large, wet hill of sawdust. I put it on the side and it climbed right up the side like it was nothing. It wasn't until later that I realized the similarity to formula off road! It isn't very scale with the independant suspension and all, but I have a tlt-1 with solid axles that, with a little lengthening of the wheel base and a jeep body would look quite a bit like the real thing. I will try to get video of it climbing the hill tomorrow. The servos should be fine, I just hooked up a traxxas servo to my futaba reciever to test it out and it worked. I have a nitro rs4 as well and I just used the standard servo that came with my radio kit and it seems to be okay. I wouldn't change out a strong servo for a weaker one though. Are you talking about putting the stronger one into the rc10gt? If that is the case, I would say that the rc10gt needs it more than the touring car.
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May 8, 2009 04:32
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stizu posted:I too have similar aspirations to make a frankenmobile. I am not sure that making a rally car out of a truck would be very succesful though, it may be easier to fit longer a arms to the touring car you have and rally tires of course. I am going to try something similar, only I am going to try to make it closer to scale. If not that, I will try to make it into a short course truck. My original plans for the RS4 were to make it into a rally car. But, the belt system makes it *very* cranky when it gets around dirt and gravel. I was hoping to retrofit the lexan underbody for the RS4 Rally, but HPI doesn't make it anymore. I also considered vacuum-forming my own, but well, then I got to driving it like a real touring car and really like it  .The short course thing is a good idea though. I'll keep it in mind if these plans don't work out. stizu posted:Right now, I have an HPI RS4 MT that I just put back together and worked out some cobwebs on. I just happened to have a set of proline sand paws laying around and decided to pop those on it. After a while of running it, I came across a large, wet hill of sawdust. I put it on the side and it climbed right up the side like it was nothing. It wasn't until later that I realized the similarity to formula off road! It isn't very scale with the independant suspension and all, but I have a tlt-1 with solid axles that, with a little lengthening of the wheel base and a jeep body would look quite a bit like the real thing. I will try to get video of it climbing the hill tomorrow. This is an awesome idea. stizu posted:The servos should be fine, I just hooked up a traxxas servo to my futaba reciever to test it out and it worked. I have a nitro rs4 as well and I just used the standard servo that came with my radio kit and it seems to be okay. I wouldn't change out a strong servo for a weaker one though. Are you talking about putting the stronger one into the rc10gt? If that is the case, I would say that the rc10gt needs it more than the touring car. Yeah, I'm thinking of pulling the stronger servo off my RS4 and dropping it on the GT. I don't know, I think I'll just buy another nice HT/HS servo.
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May 8, 2009 04:46
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Hahahaha, holy gently caress. I used to run an S9304 in my RC10GT way back in the day. And back then it was a high torque servo. http://www.rcuniverse.com/pgarchive/Futaba_S9304.htm 55oz/in is child's play any more. Looking at a 94360Z on rctech right now. http://www.airtronics.net/specs/atxservospecs.pdf Any reason I should worry about getting a digital servo? I've got a pair on my RS4 right now, but I'm not even sure what the difference is.
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May 8, 2009 04:51
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Once you've steered with a digital servo, you can never go back to analog.
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May 8, 2009 05:00
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I just took a look at the "custom paintjob" thread at rc tech and noticed that 97/100 bodies were tribal flamejobs with gimmicky poo poo like dropshadows and that torn metal look. Do you get a lot of requests for that sort of thing? I noticed that your bodies are much more interesting than the average "custom" job is why I ask. Mostly, I like the replica paintjobs. Though they seem to get overlooked in favor of bodies that get comments like, "Wow, the way that you started out white on the nose and faded into a color that made up completely symmetrical tribal flames and finished it off with random torn through metal that had a shadow cast over a checkered flag and a bizarre water droplet effect is really awesome. I would like to have you paint my bodies, but I can't afford it." I have also gotten the impression that $100 is the going rate, that seems expensive from the point of view of the purchaser, I am sure, but seems like giving away from the point of view of the painter. As uncreative and undesirable as most of those jobs look to me, it still looks like there is more than $100 worth of effort and skill involved. On the formula offroad subject, I ran my truck up the sawdust pile a few more times. I was still struck by the resemblance to formula offroad, but now that the sawdust has dried a bit, the truck gets stuck much easier. In fact, it got stuck at the top of the pile about twelve feet up! I need to find a better surface to take advantage of the paddles that I have on there right now. I think that this could offer an alternative to those who find rock crawling tedious!
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May 9, 2009 08:27
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stizu posted:I just took a look at the "custom paintjob" thread at rc tech and noticed that 97/100 bodies were tribal flamejobs with gimmicky poo poo like dropshadows and that torn metal look. Do you get a lot of requests for that sort of thing? I noticed that your bodies are much more interesting than the average "custom" job is why I ask. Oh yeah. People love Flames, checkered flags, chrome rips, and paint drips. I still get lots of request for flames, But not as much of the other stuff. mostly I try and paint what I would run on my own cars. I like clean designs that read well and don't look muddy when running down the track at full speed. It may not be the most popular stuff, but I enjoy painting it. A lot of the paint jobs you see posted on Rctech and other rc forums are probably in the $100 range. But most of those bodies are never ran or used. I would say that 80% of the paint jobs I do are $40 paint jobs. Most of my business is people who race and want 3 identical bodies but don't want to pay a whole lot because they know those bodies are going to get thrashed when they race. Those are the people who come back again and again and make up the majority of my business. I really like replica paint jobs, but they are very difficult and time consuming to paint. Anything with text or a logo is really hard. I had my first race with My Inferno GT2 Corvette today. What a fun car! Probably the most fun I have every had at a race.
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May 10, 2009 00:57
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I like clean designs that read well and don't look muddy when running down the track at full speed. It may not be the most popular stuff, but I enjoy painting it. Do you do paint jobs for people who have no idea what they want? I'm picking up a lexan (!) Tamiya Durga body and I lack skills to make it look pretty, and I don't have a clue what I want it to look like either. I have yet to see a Durga body that took advantage of the kickass lines. They're all purple and covered in flames. Having a fellow goon do some darker earthy paint would be really cool.
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May 10, 2009 02:25
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I'm glad someone else thinks the standard over-done RC paint job is way too much...I prefer paint jobs you might see on a privately-owned race team like a Porsche Supercup or small BTCC team - distinctive but relatively simple. The problem with that is, you get people who can't paint using the same sort of techniques and then your body looks like it could be a copy of their body...oh well. I just painted up a crawler body for an article I'm doing...haven't painted in a quite a while and I forgot how fun it could be to design something fresh, plus how frustrating it can be to wait for the paint to dry, and me with no hair dryer or heat gun Hypnolobster - if you're willing to spend a few bucks on paint and masking tape and also willing to experiment a little with your first few bodies, painting your own design can be really fun and relaxing. Just don't start off with drips and fadesa nd checkers, etc. Here's some body painting tips that are pretty helpful, if I may say so myself: http://www.hpiracing.com/hpibodies/tips/ I wrote the full page but the paining instructions that come with all HPI bodies are available there as well, they're a good step-by-step if you've never painted a body before, or just haven't done it in a while.
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May 10, 2009 23:51
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I have an HPI Racer 2 that's been just sitting around for the better part of a decade now; what's the best way to go about selling it? Throw it on ebay with a big ol "caveat emptor"? Find an RC forum and see if any hobbyists want it? Would anybody even want it / want to pay anything for it at this point?
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May 12, 2009 05:45
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scandoslav posted:I have an HPI Racer 2 that's been just sitting around for the better part of a decade now; what's the best way to go about selling it? Throw it on ebay with a big ol "caveat emptor"? Find an RC forum and see if any hobbyists want it? Would anybody even want it / want to pay anything for it at this point? Those share a lot of parts with the Nitro RS4 2. I'm interested. Care to shoot me an email at thekuffs at gmale?
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May 12, 2009 05:51
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I should get into this. I live about 5 blocks away from an offroad course with lots of turns and big jumps.
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May 12, 2009 13:53
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If it's a club that's been there a while, there's probably a shop close by (or at the track) that will be able to help you find a used car/radio setup, or a suitable starter setup for not too much more than a used setup. Give it a try! off-road is a lot of fun. I'm glad CORR-type kits are getting really popular now, I used to run a Dodge Ram body on my Rally, was a lot of fun.
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May 12, 2009 13:56
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Good stuff in this thread. While I knew jack poo poo of gasoline cars, I raced electronic and ended up with a Frankenstein machine. Only because I broke so many parts buying new didn't make sense.
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May 12, 2009 14:25
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krushgroove posted:If it's a club that's been there a while, there's probably a shop close by (or at the track) that will be able to help you find a used car/radio setup, or a suitable starter setup for not too much more than a used setup. Give it a try! It's just a little dirt track with a platform for people to stand on, 2 small bleachers, and what looks like a little area for announcers or for selling snacks. I can only think of one place in town that sells RC cars, and only because I drive by it on the way to work. I should stop by some day.
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May 12, 2009 14:57
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IVnic8or posted:The AX10 is a very good choice, mutt2jeff. Plenty of stuff available to hop it up and spend more of your money. Put weights in your front wheels and mount your battery on top of the front steering servo for vastly improved crawler performance. If you have not yet, lock the rear differential too. Another goon in the Industry here. I don't think I have any qualms about disclosing where I work. I am in Sales at HRP Distributing in Salt Lake, Utah. We supply to the retail hobby stores. Where are you from? EDIT: SGTSqueaks posted:YAY! I just got an email from the senior editor of a popular RC magazine, guess my Vette posted above will be in a future mag. I won the Concourse competition in the IGT class at the MONTONICA GRAND PRIX in vegas over the weekend. Sadly the racing didn't go so well. Holy crap - SKY? Never did I think I would ask one of the local racers the "do you have stairs" question. How did you make out in the 18R class at the carpet race? I should have known you were an AI goon with the SS Camaro you rolled in. Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 12, 2009 |
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May 12, 2009 23:48
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Another goon in the Industry here. I don't think I have any qualms about disclosing where I work. I am in Sales at HRP Distributing in Salt Lake, Utah. We supply to the retail hobby stores. Where are you from? I am protect. HAHA, WTF?!? As soon as I read HRP in Salt Lake I though "no way, it can't be steve". And sure enough it is. That's funny. I did ok in the 18R class. It wasn't very spec though. I ended up in 4th. I really consider it practice for the IGT, man that's a fun car. How did you end up doing? I had to leave before the rest of the mains were over.
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May 13, 2009 02:44
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So I spent a bit too much time looking at differenr RC cars today and am leaning towards the Traxxas Slash. Most likely not the newer AWD version because $280us + batteries + charger is getting too steep.
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May 13, 2009 03:00
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They're a blast. There's a good reason they've been so heavily recommended.
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May 13, 2009 03:17
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Hey cool, HRP, I remember when you guys first started up, good to see the company still going strong. There's a few of your guys over here today
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May 13, 2009 10:03
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I don't really have much to add to the thread. I have an old Team associated T3 from ages ago that I'd bash around with. I never really got into racing because the only track near me was a fair ways away and I didn't have a full-scale, actual car at the time. I'm pleased to read that electric stuff has gotten more friendly since I remember being pretty intimidated reading up about matched-cell batteries and all the stuff from the late 90's/early 2000's. This thread is cool, it's neat to have perspective from you industry guys and it's rad to see other people's cars and things like Unimog kits that I wouldn't have known about since I don't pay much attention to the RC world.
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May 13, 2009 10:31
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I got out of this sport, and reading through this thread makes me want to get back in! sold mine 3 years ago. Had a TC3 with all aluminum drivetrain components, 17T modified motor. And my banger RC10 gold tub buggy I converted to a truggy/monster truck. I would beat the everloving poo poo out of that truggy and it'd keep on driving. pics from 3 years ago from a lovely camera. TC3 with M3 body painted with german flag scheme.  Click here for the full 1280x1024 image. then RC10 gold tub. the dangling wire was for the 9v battery that was for the functioning headlights.  Click here for the full 1280x1024 image.
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May 13, 2009 13:27
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krushgroove posted:If it's a club that's been there a while, there's probably a shop close by (or at the track) that will be able to help you find a used car/radio setup, or a suitable starter setup for not too much more than a used setup. Give it a try! I agree with you on the CORR stuff. The problem is that I hear people say that the associated truck is much better than the slash and that it will take over its throne. The reason why it handles better is because it is basically an rc10t (forgive me for the old term, I don't remember what the current truck like thing is) with a short course body on it. I think that sort of takes away from the spirit of racing in a formula class that is meant to be different from the non-scale classes. I would suggest that there should be multiple formula classes like formula mazda, formula ford and formula vdub. Then I realized that the population of the hobby probably couldn't support that. The main issue for me is cost. I may be remembering wrong, but isn't the slash significantly cheaper than the other CORR trucks?
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May 13, 2009 16:52
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I did ok in the 18R class. It wasn't very spec though. I ended up in 4th. I really consider it practice for the IGT, man that's a fun car. How did you end up doing? I had to leave before the rest of the mains were over. I did alright, finished out 3rd in the A-Main, qualified 2nd. I had some mechanical issues, the battery shifted and was rubbing the belt. I had 2nd until I rolled on a corner dot in the last 3 laps or so in the main. I was very happy with the race overall Too much talking - not enough pictures of the badassery; here is something krushgroove will appreciate: 1/5 Scale Bitches  this is the Baja 5T. If you want "scale" CORR action, then ditch the 1/10 sissy stuff and pick this beast up. Weighing in at over 25 pounds, this thing is a behemoth. There are scads of aftermarket parts available as well. Mine sports axle extenders, aluminum bead lock rings, beefier drive axles, and a heavy duty clutch system that is sealed made of billet aluminum from American  aluminum to can 400 cans of Coca-Cola. This is pretty mild compared to what can really be done with this truck. I have a full set of sand tires for when I make a trip to the dunes. There are also rock crawlers that have been mentioned. This is a homegrown rig from a local at a competition last year.  Those are single-spoked billet aluminum wheels.This is a competition 4WD Racing buggy of mine that I have since sold.(Ignore the juggalo sticker, I paid the guy to paint my body)  And a "street" type competition sedan Team Associated TC5R(sans body shell).  For the core "AI" goon, this is the car for you. It is a brand new release from HPI Racing, the Datsun 510 Cup Racer. This is not yet one of mine, but one that HPI sent to us for a trade show:  (krushgroove, be sure to tell the painter that he did an AWESOME job, if you know who it was).These are just a few of my fleet. My list includes:
I am pretty sure that is current. To add more content - The Traxxas Slash is an amazing car. By far, we sell a crap-ton more SLASH trucks than anything else. The price point is right, the product is top notch. The Team Associated SC10 is also making a big impact. The sanctioning body for North America (ROAR) has set out provisional rules to allow for "Short Course" style racing. It is a lot more fun to me to just beat the crap out of these kinds of cars. I leave the competition racing to the cars that were designed to do that. edit - added one more to the list Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 22:42 on May 13, 2009 |
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May 13, 2009 20:00
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CORR is awesomeSomewhat Heroic posted:Somewhat Heroic posted:You are awesome  Is the 5t 4wd? gently caress they are so awesome and so expensive 
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May 13, 2009 20:58
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Dr. Claw posted:So I spent a bit too much time looking at differenr RC cars today and am leaning towards the Traxxas Slash. Most likely not the newer AWD version because $280us + batteries + charger is getting too steep.
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May 13, 2009 21:46
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hehe hey cool I think it might have been Andrew or Kent that painted that Cup Racer, I'm in the middle of building 'mine' (I hope it's mine eventually anyway, it'll be used for a video shoot next week). Plus I need to paint a Formula Ten body. Baja buggies and trucks are too cool...I'm managing the organization of the European Baja Challenge series, last year we did a 12-hour race with 16 teams in Spain - totally awesome, if anyone can get enough guys together to do an endurance race like this, totally do it. Only one team dropped out, at about the 10-hour mark. This year...we're hoping to double the race time and do it at a full-size off-road play area near the Nurburgring  totally awesome  There's American patriotism, but there's no nationalism like when you get 20 or so people from countries that have been shoulder-to-shoulder for centuries I've been hoping HPI can do a 1/8th GT car like the Inferno GT, or a 1/8th CORR type truck like the Kyosho DRT or SC8, but for my money you can't beat pump gas and a 2-cycle engine. If I had the money, the space and the time I'd have a Baja 5T in a heartbeat.
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May 13, 2009 22:18
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That is an awesome BAJA 5T!krushgroove posted:I've been hoping HPI can do a 1/8th GT car like the Inferno GT This would be my dream car! Love HPI stuff, and the 1/8 GT car is by far my favorite.
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May 14, 2009 00:17
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Somewhat Heroic posted:1/5 Scale Bitches How is the 5T vs the 5B? I'm more attracted to the buggy out of pure looks because it makes me feel like a little kid again. I've wanted one since I got into RC.
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May 14, 2009 01:02
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Ziploc posted:ReVolt? I would link to it, but I don't want to risk 
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May 14, 2009 01:31
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Hypnolobster posted:How is the 5T vs the 5B? I'm more attracted to the buggy out of pure looks because it makes me feel like a little kid again. I've wanted one since I got into RC. I'm told the buggy is more responsive but I just prefer the look of the truck.
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May 14, 2009 16:44
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I raced dirt oval in the late 80's when I was about 12 years old. I have had a Tamiya monster beetle (my first) and a Losi JRX2. I recently bought a used TMAXX for $100. My interest in the hobby has been renewed! I want to buy a Traxxas Summit for my son and I to play with. Can anyone help me regarding the best battery options for this truck? I would like good runtime, so obviously LIPO would be best, but it appears the pricing is still pretty high. If I have to go with NIMH is it possible to buy a charger that can charge both battery types so I don't have to replace it if I ever transition to LIPO? I have no clue which batteries are good and which are crap, I browse the online hobby shops and I'm just overwhelmed at the number of options. Also-what is the best online hobby shop? I've been looking at tower hobbies. My local shop is over an hour away and all parts have been 40-50% higher than online. Any ideas? tehlump fucked around with this message at 17:28 on May 14, 2009 |
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May 14, 2009 17:25
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You can get a charger that will do both NiMH and LiPo, but chargers that do both at the same time would be very expensive - might be better to get a charger that does LiPo (it will probably do NiMH as well) and get a cheaper peak charger for just NiMH. If you won't be charging from your car batter you'll need a small 12v DC power supply for each, or for the about same price you can get a power supply that can do both. You can also find instructions online pretty easily for converting an old PC power supply into a DC unit for RC. Amainhobbies.com and stormerhobbies.com have pretty good reps with racers I think, not sure if they can compete with Tower or Horizon (who are manufacturers but also sell direct) but they're worth checking out. As far as LiPo batteries, I'm not familiar with the Summit but there are a bunch of LiPo battery suppliers, MaxAmps and SMC do a variety of sizes/capacities, the more you spend the more power and runtime you get, just make sure you get the right voltage for what you want to do - no need to get a really high voltage pack when all you need is a 7.4v pack. From there, get as many millamps as you can afford, I say why be charging when you can be playing?
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May 14, 2009 18:08
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Thanks for the info... I didn't mean to charge both LIPO and NIMH at the same time, I just meant that it would be nice if it had the capability of doing both. However, I just thought of something. The summit uses 2 batteries. Is there a charger made that can charge 2 at the same time or will I have to charge each separately? Thanks for the hobby shop URL's. I'll check them out.
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May 14, 2009 18:23
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OK, didn't know the Summit uses two batteries. Here are some chargers that do two LiPo packs at the same time, I haven't used any of these though. I think with more and more dual-pack kits coming out there will be more of these, but they seem reasonably priced already. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEYD4&P=ML http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLCJ6&P=ML http://www.fmadirect.com/new_applications/10sCharger/10s_charger.html If you're willing to play around with wiring a little, as long as the charger has the ability to charge the total two packs (two 2s batteries would be one 4s for example) you will be fine. You will just need a y-harness for whatever plugs you are using. (found this on the E-Savage forum)
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May 14, 2009 18:32
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tehlump posted:Thanks for the info... If I was going to have to charge multiple types of battery, I think the Checkpoint 1030 is a good charger to have. I just did a bunch of research myself. Most AC/DC chargers don't seem to be worth it, as output amperage is generally low, and it's stupid simple to build your own decent DC power supply out of a computer ATX power supply. That said I got an FME Extrema, because I'll only be charging LiPos. Anyway, I'm getting back into RC after a long layoff, too. I ran offroad 2WD in the late 80s/early 90s. I got a wild hair up my rear end last year and decided to get into 1/10 Touring Car, mainly because there is no organized offroad racing here and the local onroad club is strong. Then I was away all last summer, so my car sat collecting dust, and has still never turned a wheel, but I'm determined to run this year. So, I've got orders into four different mail order places, to the tune of about $500, to get it up. Getting initially set up to run touring car (at a potentially competitive level) is awfully pricey. I guess it doesn't help that I've bought everything new, but whatever. That 5 bills doesn't include the car, radio, tools and spares that I already have.  Click here for the full 1292x850 image. I got a Losi JRXS-R, mainly because I liked the component layout, with the motor and battery on the centerline. Unfortunately, it is set up for carpet out of the box so I had to get some extra parts, like a front spool, sway bars, and much softer springs. The car is also very limited for battery space, so finding a high mAh, high-C LiPo that would fit without much hassle was troublesome. The Reedy 5000mAh 35C pack might fit with a little grinding of the motor supports, but I've got some Elite packs of the same spec on the way, which are substantially smaller and will (should) drop right in. Any pack more than 25mm thick ain't gonna fit - the Elites are 24mm.  Click here for the full 1314x845 image. Excuse the big glob of solder - getting three fat wires on that tiny motor tab was a hassle (Novak GTB brush/brushless, biased to brushless). I was going to run 19-turn last year so there's a Checkpoint Money in the car, but the club only runs Stock this year. So, I'm switching to brushless, with a Speed Passion 17.5 turn in the mail. That introduces it's own problems, which is to say the gearing is way, way off. Rollout for a brushed stock motor is like 28mm, while the brushless has to be 50+mm. Losi uses a proprietary spur gear mounting system, so I had to order an adapter to mount normal spurs. I need a much smaller spur so I can use a reasonably sized pinion. All the crap on order should be here this week, so I can start setting the car up.
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May 18, 2009 17:20
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I've always liked the JRX-S layout, I was curious how they'd get around the problems the Pro 3 had and Gil Jr. always had an eye for funky new stuff There's a guy on RCTech.com that posted about his many experiments with the JRX-S - a bit too much armchair engineering for some but a lot of people liked his threads.
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May 18, 2009 19:29
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