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compressioncut posted:Stuff I live vicariously through posts like these  If you don't mind me asking, what exactly does that $500 go toward if you already have the car, radio, and spare parts?
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May 18, 2009 20:07
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krushgroove posted:I've always liked the JRX-S layout, I was curious how they'd get around the problems the Pro 3 had and Gil Jr. always had an eye for funky new stuff Mine's the Type-R, which replaced the JRXS and has very little in common - it was released in spring '07 I think. It still seems to be competitive from what I can tell, and there doesn't seem to be much homebrew stuff to be done. The spur adapter is about the only necessary pure aftermarket. I wish Losi had included the spool and swaybars in the basic kit, not that they're expensive but it's an added hassle. Some guys replace the "JR Link" upper a-arm with a regular ball stud and turnbuckle, but just as many don't. That's about all... Sloppy posted:I live vicariously through posts like these Battery charger (200), batteries (200 incl shipping for two packs), new motor (75), tires (60 for two sets, mounted). And I don't have any setup tools yet, though I'm going to hold off to make sure I enjoy myself first. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 21:11 on May 18, 2009 |
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May 18, 2009 21:06
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I only knew two or so drivers who used the JRX-S for racing, both of them being factory racers. Dunno, something about the JRX-S which makes it look ungainly compared to the other chassis out on the market, but the battery location did make sense back in the days of running heavy NiMH batteries. These days it really isn't a factor with the very light LiPo packs.
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May 18, 2009 23:52
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The motors are still offset to the side in conventional layout cars (Corally, X-Ray), and haven't got any lighter, so have to be balanced with lead or steel in the battery slots, way off centerline. Some guys in the RCTech forums thread figure the -R is the best LiPo car available right now - biased opinion, but believable. I'll get mine on some scales at some point, but I also believe you can get to the ROAR 1500g minimum with very little added weight, and you can put the weight pretty much anywhere you want. Losi also makes a steel LiPo tray that is basically impossible to find, as it sells out as soon as it is in stock wherever it appears. I don't know why companies like Corally and X-Ray continue to cut battery slots in their top end cars. In fact the only high end RC race car I've seen that comes set up to run LiPo out of the box is the Schumacher Cat 4WD buggy.
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May 19, 2009 00:25
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From what I have been told, the Tamiya TRF 416 was built out of the box to be ready for Lipo. however with my older 415 you had to put a lot of lead weight on the outside edge of the battery to balance the chassis out.
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May 19, 2009 02:36
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The cells may be tucked in a bit more but it looks like the standard touring car layout - cells right, motor/steering left.
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May 19, 2009 04:50
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It'll be interesting to see where the more innovative companies go with saddle pack LiPos and whatnot, there's not much more that folks can do with touring cars right now.
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May 19, 2009 08:59
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krushgroove posted:It'll be interesting to see where the more innovative companies go with saddle pack LiPos and whatnot, there's not much more that folks can do with touring cars right now.
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May 19, 2009 11:47
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Exactly - the most popular cars locally are XRay and Corally, so lots of spares are available at the hobby shop.
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May 19, 2009 14:15
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I finally managed to build most of my TA05-IFS, but now I need some electronics. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this as the last time I built one of these things I was about 10. A friend gave me a better motor, I think it's an lrp although I think I might just use the standard motor anyway. Also he gave me an lrp ipc 7.1 esc, but it looks pretty beat up and he said it may need to go back to them to be rewired. So if this thing is no good, what esc do you think would be good, same goes for a steering servo. Are there any good sites that have beginners guides etc? as i'm reading some forums and there seem to be allot of tricks and tips that i'd have to spend hours reading through tonnes of useless crap it seems.
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May 19, 2009 18:30
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Idiot race posted:I finally managed to build most of my TA05-IFS, but now I need some electronics. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this as the last time I built one of these things I was about 10. I don't really know poo poo from poo poo as I haven't driven an RC car in 15+ years, but have been doing a lot of research. For a speedo you should probably look at a Castle Sidewinder, which is reasonably priced ($75USD). You should also almost certainly use a brushless motor, 13.5 turn to start probably? That's a fairly fast motor though. The Castle speedo can do brushed motors too, so if you want to use the stocker, no problem.
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May 21, 2009 03:37
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Idiot race posted:I finally managed to build most of my TA05-IFS, but now I need some electronics. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this as the last time I built one of these things I was about 10. In regards to servos, you can not go wrong with Futaba digital servos. I've always run them, rock solid and makes it feel like you are pulling on the steering arms. In regards to basic/newbie forum advice, there's not really anything out there like it. RCTech has a huge TA05 thread in the electric subforum, you can probably search through it for some links and tips.
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May 21, 2009 04:12
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Castle Sidewinder (also the HPI Flux Motiv) is a really good speedo, under-rated because they don't have the marketing budget or slickness of the other brands. I've always been partial to LRP and Nosram as well, have never had them let me down. Many of the LRP speedos are waterproof also, that ain't too bad! (I realize these are all brands that HPI is affiliated with, but there's a reason for that  )
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May 21, 2009 08:52
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I like the look of the castle sidewinder, i'll have to see if I can get one in the uk. Do the brushless motors make a big difference? If the esc does give you the option to switch between the two that would be great. Also I found a suitable digital futaba servo. Another thing I noticed that some of the new radio gear is no longer FM and runs on 2.4ghz, i'm assuming they are much better than the old ones as well?
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May 21, 2009 11:34
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If you're a dedicated racer the 2.4gHz stuff can feel slower but most people (like, 99%) won't notice, so get it and never worry about frequency conflicts or crystals ever again I'm not sure about Castle distribution in the UK (I'm in the UK) but if you like that see if you can get the HPI Flux Motiv system, it comes with a 4600KV motor which is plenty fast for nearly everything.
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May 21, 2009 11:38
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krushgroove posted:If you're a dedicated racer the 2.4gHz stuff can feel slower but most people (like, 99%) won't notice, so get it and never worry about frequency conflicts or crystals ever again It sounds worth it then, I vaugely remember having trouble with crystals ages ago. Oddly when I first was looking I wanted a HPI kit I think a Sprint 2? Can't remember why I went with a tamiya.
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May 21, 2009 12:11
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Idiot race posted:It sounds worth it then, I vaugely remember having trouble with crystals ages ago.  Tamiya fanboy mode off
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May 21, 2009 13:13
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So, there's been alot of discussion in the thread, but a whole lot of it is still going over my head. As a hobby this seems like it would be a really kickass thing to get into. I'm really tempted to get a Traxxas Slash and just go nuts in the empty land around my University which is across the street from me. However, I'd really also like to get something that would be really capable on-road. The drifting videos that are a dime a dozen on YouTube really appeal to me, and I'd love to be doing something like that. I went down to the Hobby Lobby in my town, but they didn't have any Slashes, and I never got a chance to talk to the guy behind the counter in the half hour I spent oogling the stuff they did have. He was busy helping 2 other guys. I did spy a Losi XXX-S something or another, and that looked more like something I would enjoy. Brushless 4wd with a proper street car body. But anyway, I was just fishing for some good suggestions for On-Road RC, weather it's eletric or nitro. I know that the brushless motors are super pimp now with the LiPo batteries from all the talk in this thread about them, but I'm not terribly biased one way or another.
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May 22, 2009 18:52
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Just a quick question for krushgroove, seeing as you are in the uk also. What sites would you reccccccccccccomend buying from? There is a hobbystore not to far from where I live, but I dont know if they are any good or not. Also is that a good combination, or is that motor too much for a beginner?
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May 22, 2009 21:39
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Idiot race posted:Just a quick question for krushgroove, seeing as you are in the uk also. What sites would you reccccccccccccomend buying from? There is a hobbystore not to far from where I live, but I dont know if they are any good or not.
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May 22, 2009 21:48
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InitialDave posted:I've used http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ before, they were good to deal with. I feel kinda stupid now because I was browsing their forums without even knowing they were a retailer. 
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May 22, 2009 21:51
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Like many people here, this thread brought back the fun I used to have playing with R/C as a kid and now I've dove back into the hobby. After doing some research I decided to buy a Mini R/C (1:18 scale) XMODS brand car from Radioshack for only $40. These cars are actually built by HPI and are licensed for sale through Radioshack along with their own line of mostly useless mods. While Radioshack has tried unsuccessfully before to bring mainstream Japanese R/C products to America (BitCharG/MicroSizers a few years back), XMODS have a full line of hop up parts you can buy from R/C sites all over the world. After doing everything I could do with the Radioshack brand upgrades I ended up ordering over $200 bucks in parts to replace every possible component on this car with an aftermarket upgrade. I want to eventually get another stock XMOD and a MINI-Z (considered by many to be the best 1:28 brand out there) to see how my car performs against them when I've finished the work. I figured this was a good, relatively cheap, way to get back into the hobby that has the potential for further investment. Here is the kit I got from a store that sells a ton of mods for these scale cars. http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/XMOD-Evo-Starter-Kit---2008-Nissan-GT-R__14610.aspx If I continue to pursue this hobby beyond the summer I wan to eventually get a 1:10 Nitro Touring car. I'd really like to get something I could put together myself rather than a RTR or maybe even just get a chassis and buy everything piecemeal. My question is; which car in this class has the most aftermarket upgrades available from major hop up manufacturers and distributors? And does anyone know of a good place to but assembled kits or stripped chassis for builds? Right now I'm torn between HPI and Associated but have also been checking the cars out from Tamiya. Price isn't really an object as long as I'm not spending much more than $500 for a chassis/kit sans radio and ECU. James Woods fucked around with this message at 08:21 on May 25, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 02:38
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James Woods posted:All that and no pics?
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May 24, 2009 02:49
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Ziploc posted:All that and no pics? I'll be doing a post with pics when the parts start arriving from Hong Kong next week.
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May 24, 2009 04:44
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Way back in the 80s and early 90s in another life. I was a 'professional' remote control racer  i was sponsored by 'TQ' and 'Litespeed'. They are long gone.I had a few racers to compete in different events, A Losi JRX-pro, a rc-10 worlds edition back when it was a gold tub and we just switched from the old 6 gear rear to the prototype stealth transmission, a heavily modified YZ-10 for 4wd events, and a RC-10L for pan events. and a Clodzilla 3 for monster truck events. in the middle 1990s it was all about touring cars, Ta-01s ta-02s, later HPI, and TA03s was the end of my career. In my twilight years I'm more of a static builder. just some of my crap, stop now or you will sacome to addiction.        my house is a hobby shop basically. Most of my early sponsored racers are gone, i sold some of them off to buy newer cars and my Losi and YZ-10 were on loan due to prototype parts so i had to give them back, later i bought updated models to continue racing on my own locally dalabast fucked around with this message at 06:52 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 06:48
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Nice Sand Scorcher there dalabast. Jealous of the Hilux model, those things are awesome, but expensive as all heck on eBay.
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May 24, 2009 11:20
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You Am I posted:Nice Sand Scorcher there dalabast. Jealous of the Hilux model, those things are awesome, but expensive as all heck on eBay. Wouldn't be surprised if Tamiya reissued the Hilux, like they are the Rough Rider. I remember smoking a buddy's Rough Rider in 7th grade, with my modified Grasshopper. The RR/Sand Scorcher are pretty neat combinations of scale models and RC models, but I remember his RR was slow as poo poo, but the Hopper had a Tamiya RX-540VZ Technigold motor in it and was about half the weight so I'm being unfair... Man, a lot of memories http://www.rcgrabbag.com/archives/category/videos/ Vintage RC is a pretty big subculture, who knew. And speaking of "scale" RC, I just ordered an Associated SC10 truck, before I even get my touring car running. I figured I needed something fun to screw around with, as the TC is a race car after all, and with 4mm of ground clearance wouldn't even be OK on my street. And the short course truck thing is getting pretty big in the organized racing scene too, if and when we get organized offroad racing around here. But there's still a huge bashing scene. Ordered a 5200mAh LiPo pack to go with it; I'll use a Castle Sidewinder speedo with the Checkpoint Money 19T brushed motor I have lying around, till it wears out. At least I spent less than $300.
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May 24, 2009 21:22
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compressioncut posted:Wouldn't be surprised if Tamiya reissued the Hilux, like they are the Rough Rider. There is a kinda re-released Hilux - the Ford F350 runs a similar setup to the old Hiluxes.
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May 25, 2009 00:22
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You Am I posted:They are re-releasing the RR? I might be able to get spare parts at a cheap price for my SS then... http://tamiyablog.com/2009/05/tamiya-rough-rider-re-release-tamiya.html
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May 25, 2009 00:41
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compressioncut posted:http://tamiyablog.com/2009/05/tamiya-rough-rider-re-release-tamiya.html I am so buying that. Maybe two so I have spare parts for the SS. Thank you for the link, I will contact my dealer for a price on one of those.
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May 25, 2009 01:02
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yup the rough rider is coming out again kit #58441 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58441 they speculate the Sand scorcher will be next.
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May 25, 2009 04:11
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dalabast posted:yup the rough rider is coming out again kit #58441
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May 25, 2009 05:08
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IIRC the newer kits have several differences, I think the main ones being ESC's and stuff like that, I'm sure the mold markings are slightly diffrent. A Tamiya nerd would be able to tell you for sure though. James Woods - the XMODS cars aren't made by HPI, there was just a marketing deal worked out between the companies, that's all, that's why there were replica HPI Impreza cars released for the line-up. I managed to get one before the sales tanked in the UK, they do look pretty sweet compressioncut - I would have suggested the Traxxas Slayer/Slash SC truck (I've heard they're way better or wait for someone else to release one) but you should have plenty of fun with the SC10, IMO these types of trucks are what have been missing from RC for years - something 'scale' looking but with off- and on-road capability, basically like the rally cars of some years ago.
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May 25, 2009 22:33
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krushgroove posted:compressioncut - I would have suggested the Traxxas Slayer/Slash SC truck (I've heard they're way better or wait for someone else to release one) but you should have plenty of fun with the SC10, IMO these types of trucks are what have been missing from RC for years - something 'scale' looking but with off- and on-road capability, basically like the rally cars of some years ago. Nah, the SC10 is basically stretched T4 stadium truck, which is also basically the same as the B4 buggy - world champion vehicles. That's OK for me. The Slash is, well, a Traxxas and that doesn't appeal to me so much. It's not bad and there's huge aftermarket for them but the SC10 seems to be a little better out of the box, if only for its lower centre of gravity. And I expect the market to catch up rapidly, it was just released after all. Objectively speaking, they're really a wash performance wise. The Slayer is a nitro truck, something I have no desire to get into. I certainly agree with you otherwise. The CORR trucks are exploding, and really appeal to me. I was toying with the idea of an HPI Cup Racer or similar, but the off road truck is a bigger change from the touring car.
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May 26, 2009 02:00
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krushgroove posted:IIRC the newer kits have several differences, I think the main ones being ESC's and stuff like that, I'm sure the mold markings are slightly diffrent. A Tamiya nerd would be able to tell you for sure though.
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May 26, 2009 02:52
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Well, my JRXS-R is haunted or some poo poo, as it's turning in to a slow motion disaster. I didn't figure the gearing correctly, or rather, didn't think that I couldn't move the motor forward enough to get the new (huge) pinion to mesh with the new (tiny) spur. My LHS has any number of spurs but the only 64 pitch stuff is Calandra for 1/12 pan cars - the mounting bolt pattern is different. They have a 56 tooth(!!) pinion that would mesh, but that final drive ratio is way, way too high for the 17.5t brushless. I might be able to go to 48 pitch, but I ordered some bigger spurs online which I'll try first. Argh. I still don't have any batteries so whatever... I also replaced the right front lower a-arm, from which I had broken a sway bar mount. I put the setscrew for adjusting droop in, went to tighten it and the goddamn screw cracked in half, leaving most of it in the a-arm! I gave some thought to drilling it out but just drilled & tapped a new hole beside it instead. Looks bad, but works I guess. The aftermarket spur adapter I got also didn't fit very well, requiring a fair amount of Dremel work. The Speed Passion BL motor's sensor harness is something like 2.5" long, while the speedo is a good 10" away. I think that's it. Definitely won't be racing this weekend, though. The good news is that UPS says the SC10 truck is just across the strait (I live on an island) and will be here tomorrow, just in time for weekend bashing. Enough whining.
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May 28, 2009 02:59
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I hated it when gears would not fit properly due to being too big or too small and the motor mount wouldn't adjust enough. And with 64 pitch gears, those thing strip so easily.
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May 28, 2009 04:53
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So I reversed the polarity on my receiver pack due to some wonky wiring on the switch that I hadn't examined closely enough. Looks like ruined the steering servo in one of my RC10GTs. The good thing is, I have an ideal set of servos in my Nitro RS4. I don't think my RS4 needs HS/HT and can probably make do with standard servos (will someone correct me on this if necessary?). My question now is, should I just buy a pair of Futaba digital standard servos or is there a deal to be had with another manufacturer? Honestly it looks like Futaba charges a premium for their servos - not that they aren't excellent. Also, what manufacturers use the same horns? So far I know that Traxxas/Futaba have the same splines.
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Jun 1, 2009 01:18
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When I was last in it, I was picking up Hitec digital servos; if I remember correctly they were essentially a straight swap for the Futaba servos, and you could get a high-speed one for the price of a crappy Futaba.
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Jun 1, 2009 01:24
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Went out bashing with my SC10 today, at a BMX track. It was a friggin blast. I'm running a Checkpoint 19T brushed motor and it's exactly as fast as it needs to be - real entertaining but not overpowered by any stretch. Got some pretty sick air and lots and lots of bad crashes but the truck is in perfect shape, minus a lot of scratches. One of the other guys out was taking video so with any luck I'll have something later. LiPo batteries are god's own miracle too, as I was screwing around for the better part of 90 minutes, and used two packs - they were only down a few tenths of a volt apiece. I only swapped the first out because I was driving for so long I thought my speedo's low voltage cutoff was set wrong. About 45 seconds of charging and I'm ready to go again. The only problem is that the body catches a lot of air under the nose once it gets up to a certain angle in the air - you have to keep it pretty much perfectly flat or the nose goes straight up. I'm going to fab up some sort of shield to try to block the airflow - wheelwell liners, essentially. RC cars are a blast.
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Jun 1, 2009 02:10
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