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Hog Obituary posted:Doesn't credit card via PayPal give you a reasonable amount of protection? (I've never actually tried to dispute anything with PayPal, but they sure try to make it seem safe) Paying by credit card, period, gives you the most consumer protections. No one should ever use Paypal for anything other than small, convenient purchases.
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May 21, 2009 21:09
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So are you saying credit card via paypal is good or bad?
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May 21, 2009 23:36
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Hog Obituary posted:So are you saying credit card via paypal is good or bad? If you can, pay directly by credit card. I'm not sure whether using it through Paypal sacrifices any of your protections or not.
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May 21, 2009 23:38
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If the paypal account you use to pay with your credit card is linked to an actual bank account paypal's TOS allows them to debit it. Should your dispute be found invalid (i.e. all the seller has to do it provide a tracking number) you could do a chargeback on your credit card. Paypal will promptly take your money out of your bank account anyway. This is why you see people setting up two accounts all the time. One way around this is to make two separate accounts, credit card and bank account linked. Transfer the difference from your bank account to the credit card linked account and pay the total from there. I don't know if your credit card allows it but I can carry a balance that is also reflected in my credit available. So my credit is $500 and I want something that's 800? Pay 300 extra, wait 5 minutes and pay directly with it. Visa through Vancity. I'd be surprised if you couldn't do the same. You can call them and ask though.
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May 22, 2009 12:54
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Makes sense. Ebay apparently recommends escrow.com, so I emailed the guy asking if that'd be cool or if he has any services he prefers (if he does, I'm certainly checking into those services thoroughly). The credit card idea might work in a pinch, though. Thanks, guys!
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May 22, 2009 14:43
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Went swimming with my '09 advanced key fob today... IT SURVIVED!
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May 26, 2009 07:49
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Just chiming in to say that the 5 seconds it takes to disable the door buzzer: completely worth it. I don't know how I didn't go insane over the course of 2+ years.
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May 27, 2009 06:45
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Phone posted:Just chiming in to say that the 5 seconds it takes to disable the door buzzer: completely worth it. I don't know how I didn't go insane over the course of 2+ years. The one that goes off when you leave the car's auxiliary on when you take the key out of the car? If there's a guide somewhere, do you mind sharing?
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May 27, 2009 07:23
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The one for NAs is dead simple: put the key in the ignition, and feel under the dash to the left of the steering wheel for the connector that changes sound when you hold it and unplug it. You're done.
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May 27, 2009 08:53
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If only there was a way to replace that with a noise that reminded my to shut my goddamn lights off... I've had to get jumped once already, and I can't count the times I have gotten halfway up the stairs to my apartment and noticed I left them on. Goddamn I'm a retard.
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May 27, 2009 16:37
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The Third Man posted:If only there was a way to replace that with a noise that reminded my to shut my goddamn lights off... I've had to get jumped once already, and I can't count the times I have gotten halfway up the stairs to my apartment and noticed I left them on. Goddamn I'm a retard.
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May 27, 2009 17:04
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I think it throws me off since it's obvious when the main lamps are on, since they are pop ups for my NA, but when it's just the evening and I click on the little running lights or whatever you want to call them, it's real easy to forget about them when you park. Left them on for 2 days and completely drained my battery... Speaking of, after I did that my radio no longer works and is just reading "cod e", any ideas as to what that means, or should I dig out my manual?
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May 27, 2009 17:08
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LastInLine posted:This is truth. In the winter when the headlamp switch is constantly in the up position, I forget for a few weeks before I get used to turning them off. Thank God the NB has a chime for them. I am glad for the chime on my NB because I always leave the drat lights on. I wish you could remove the 6 beeps that tell you to put your seatbelt on. I never drive without it so I don't need to be reminded of it every time I start the car without wearing it damnit! If I could I would unplug every chime and light in the entire dash except the tach, speedo, oil pressure and coolant temp. I have a different question, does anyone here have the FFS cold-side supercharger setup? I'm really looking at this one because of the CARB cert and I've only heard good things about the kit. Aside from the fact that the coldside is fairly limited in power gain due to no intercooler, I'm still really interested in it. The always available torque would be nice for around town driving. Basically I'm looking for opinions on their Powercard and E-Cool systems. I've heard bad things bout the old powercards but the new powercard pro supposedly fixed a lot of the issues people were having with it. I drive an 02 and I'm also wondering how it will be affected by the VVT and if I would be better off running the Hydra along with E-Cool (loving expensive) or if I should just use the powercard pro. Thoughts?
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May 27, 2009 17:14
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The Third Man posted:If only there was a way to replace that with a noise that reminded my to shut my goddamn lights off... I've had to get jumped once already, and I can't count the times I have gotten halfway up the stairs to my apartment and noticed I left them on. Goddamn I'm a retard. There are a few write ups on how to do this on miata.net
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May 27, 2009 19:59
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The Third Man posted:Speaking of, after I did that my radio no longer works and is just reading "cod e", any ideas as to what that means, or should I dig out my manual? I believe it is asking for the radio code. It should be written somewhere in your owner's manual I would hope. The code is supposed to be some sort of theft deterrent so that when the unit loses power, you can't use it again until you unlock it with the code. But in reality it's just a headache for the actual owner.
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May 27, 2009 20:32
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Guinness posted:I believe it is asking for the radio code. It should be written somewhere in your owner's manual I would hope. If you don't have the code or you are locked out there is a way to bypass it. http://www.miata.net/faq/faq3.html ^ Scroll halfway down and it should tell you what you need.
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May 27, 2009 20:49
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 Click here for the full 800x600 image. What's the best way to fix this tear? As in, the most long-lasting, most durable, and least noticeable-from-the-outside fix. (No money for a new top, so I'd like to keep this one as long as possible). Also, does it looks like a knife-induced tear? I might have to get some security equipment if it is.
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May 28, 2009 00:31
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Apparently Begi was having a one day only 20% off sale: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=331988 Now I need to make a decision on FI in the next couple hours 
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May 28, 2009 03:00
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ChiliMac posted:Apparently Begi was having a one day only 20% off sale: Oh man... thats amazing. I wish I could afford to pay the 3100 bucks for the S2 right now...
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May 28, 2009 04:17
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FireTora posted:Oh man... thats amazing. I wish I could afford to pay the 3100 bucks for the S2 right now... No poo poo. It's a good thing I don't have any expendable funds right now or I'd be hunting for a cheap NA to put a Chinacharger kit on. That's a hell of a deal.
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May 28, 2009 04:25
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Chinacharger wasn't included in the discount I believe. I did manage to snag one of these though: http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=5_60&products_id=334 hooray!
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May 28, 2009 05:11
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I added a Shanghai-S to the cart and threw in the code, it offered up $255 off. Maybe I should just turbo the '99 already.
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May 28, 2009 05:13
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Well I ordered an S4, but the discount didn't seem to work on some of the additions--I'll need to try to iron that out I guess. Edit: Everything worked out, saved over $1k all said; drat you disposable income! ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 20:33 on May 28, 2009 |
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May 28, 2009 14:40
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These loving Yokohama Paradas are riding me around on Cloud 9. The last four months I've rolled around on flat-spotted tires (some old rear end in a top hat in an Infiniti pulled out in front of me and I had to stand on the brakes) and these babies are 100x better than the rocks they replaced. Also it was my first introduction to the awesomeness that is Tire Rack
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May 29, 2009 05:07
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Hagetaka posted:Also it was my first introduction to the awesomeness that is Tire Rack Nice...Tire Rack is pretty much one of the best shops ever, the only pain in the rear end now is because they're so popular, places that used to only charge $10-$15 to mount and balance a tire have doubled their price.
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May 29, 2009 14:08
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When I was polishing the Miata the other weekend I couldn't help but notice a crack in the paint on one of my fenders. I have no idea where it comes from, but the paint around it appears a bit loose. I can push it to the metal and it comes right back. When I look into the crack I can see the subcoating still intact and no signs of rust. What may have caused such a thing and more importantly how do I seal it so it won't start to rust?  In unrelated news, it started raining soon after I was done polishing.
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May 29, 2009 18:23
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I just posted a few items from my Miata for sale in the A.I. Marketplace thread
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May 30, 2009 03:59
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Today I finally decided to put on the new door mirrors I got for christmas as well as wash and vacuum my 90. Got everything done except for the drivers side mirror: Click for big Mazda decided to gently caress it the gently caress up and not cast it properly. All that should be there is the little nub in the center, not the giant piece next to it. 10 minutes with the Dremel and bench grinder it's on. It aint pretty, but gently caress if I'm ever taking it off again. Edit: Argh I have to take the passenger side one off, they didn't tension the spring enough at the factory and it just flops down when I go faster than 20kmh 
Suniikaa fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jun 3, 2009 |
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Jun 3, 2009 20:36
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Just a quick note to say that Simple Green is amazing at getting off years-old grime from a tan top. It's not perfect, but it's MUCH better than before.
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Jun 4, 2009 16:27
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FunkyJunk posted:Just a quick note to say that Simple Green is amazing at getting off years-old grime from a tan top. It's not perfect, but it's MUCH better than before. Noted. I'll have to try this out. My top is only 2 years old, but it's kind of grimy. Thanks.
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Jun 4, 2009 19:14
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Guinness posted:Noted. I'll have to try this out. My top is only 2 years old, but it's kind of grimy. Thanks. FWIW, I used a brush with stiff plastic bristles to scrub the top. You may want to do the same. Also for the record this was on an '01 with stock OEM synthetic top. YMMV on any cloth top.
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Jun 4, 2009 21:29
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Okay guys, I need a little help - my antifreeze in my '94 is, for lack of a better term, disappearing. A few weeks ago, I was driving home from work and noticed that the engine temperature gauge was all the way over on the hot side. Usually, the gauge is below the thermometer icon. I don't seem to have a leak - there's no coolant puddled under the car. There's no water in the oil. (I don't remember what that was supposed to signify, but I was told to check.) When we added coolant today, it was a murky, light-brown color, not the usual antifreeze green. Could that just be rust that's discoloring it, or does it denote a specific problem? We tried to get the radiator flushed today, but the mechanic said there was oil in it and he wouldn't do it - we're not sure if there's oil in it or not. We would do it ourselves, but due to apartment-dwelling, it's not possible...
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Jun 6, 2009 22:04
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RubySprinkles posted:Okay guys, I need a little help - my antifreeze in my '94 is, for lack of a better term, disappearing. A few weeks ago, I was driving home from work and noticed that the engine temperature gauge was all the way over on the hot side. Usually, the gauge is below the thermometer icon. I don't seem to have a leak - there's no coolant puddled under the car. There's no water in the oil. (I don't remember what that was supposed to signify, but I was told to check.) When we added coolant today, it was a murky, light-brown color, not the usual antifreeze green. Could that just be rust that's discoloring it, or does it denote a specific problem? Blown headgasket? Check for coolant in your oil.
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Jun 7, 2009 18:02
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I've got a 95 still with the original paintjob, and it looks fantastic for being 14 years old, but there are still 14 years work of nicks and chips on the front of the car. It's all speckled with white and it's kind of bugging me, and I was wondering if there was a way of dealing with this? Is it possible to go to town with a tube of touch-up paint? Also, how much would I expect for it to be repainted?
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Jun 7, 2009 20:17
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Unless if you're going to restore the car or something ridiculous, you're better off calling it character or touching up a bit. A proper paint job will probably cost you how much you paid for the car.
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Jun 7, 2009 20:43
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AkrisD posted:Blown headgasket? Check for coolant in your oil. Oil is fine, already checked that.
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Jun 8, 2009 05:34
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Could be the problem mine was(is) having, the plastic at the top cracked and the coolant was leaking down the radiator and evaporating before it would reAch the bottom. My radiator is still cracked, but if it was going to overheat I'm pretty sure it would have done it the other day when I was stuck in traffic and it was ~90F outside, probably closer to 110 on the blacktop. As it is the crack is high enough that no coolant is leaking, but the cooling system also isn't pressurizing. Is that going to hurt anything? I'm a touch too broke to replace a radiator. Should I go the J-B route?
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Jun 8, 2009 08:56
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If no coolant is leaking, then the radiator can't possibly be full of coolant (since it would leak when it warms up). So basically, you're low on coolant. e: I can sell you a known good stock radiator for $50  e2: ooops, you said you'd pushed the cooling system pretty hard already. Anyway, JB weld is probably a good first attempt, just don't get any inside the rad. :P Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jun 8, 2009 |
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Jun 8, 2009 16:06
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posted this in the stupid questions megathread:quote:This afternoon marked the second time in a couple weeks where I've started my car for the first time in a day or two, and the engagement point for the clutch has been significantly lower than normal. It engages much sooner than I'm used too and really throws me since I'm still learning stick. It seems to normalize after a bit of driving, but it's still rather worrisome. I would hazard a guess that this has something to do with the master cylinder? I can't understand why the problem would slowly disappear as the car gets warmed up, though. This is a 95 miata, if it matters. They told me to go here. Is this a common/predictable problem?
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Jun 9, 2009 14:32
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See if pumping the clutch ~10 times before you start driving fixes the issue. Does the problem come back after not using the clutch for a couple minutes? If so it's probably that your slave cylinder poo poo the bed. Easy fix, $40 worth of parts and a hour or so of time.
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Jun 9, 2009 14:43
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