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IOwnCalculus posted:When I was last in it, I was picking up Hitec digital servos; if I remember correctly they were essentially a straight swap for the Futaba servos, and you could get a high-speed one for the price of a crappy Futaba.
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Jun 1, 2009 02:30
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James Woods posted:I'll be doing a post with pics when the parts start arriving from Hong Kong next week. Did you wind up getting any of your stuff?
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Jun 1, 2009 04:17
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You guys got me into a Slash...     Somuchfun 
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Jun 1, 2009 17:22
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So, the local offroad track is especially difficult for 1/10th scale cars. The track is mostly designed for 1/8th truggies and so the jumps are pretty big. As a result of my novice driving ability, the body for my RC10GT has taken a beating. What is the recommended way to reinforce critical areas on these things? Looks like one of the bodies I have has what appears to be drywall mesh tape epoxied onto the underside. What kind of epoxy should I use to ensure that it still stays rather flexible? I am looking to paint up a new body and there was a fellow at the local club meet with a kickass flat-black body. He obviously painted the outside, but the finish was much more even than I think I can achieve with polycarbonate pain. Anyone have any thoughts? SGT. Squeaks, you do not have any rc10gt bodies for sale :P
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Jun 1, 2009 19:11
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You Am I posted:Where did you get the idea that Futaba is poo poo? HiTec is like the basement bargin crap of the RC electronics world. Nearly everyone I know of has done their best of offload them for a better servo I never said they were? They were all I'd ever used for years, and all of my radios are Futabas. I just meant that for the price of Futaba's lowest-end servos (plastic gears, analog, basic specs) you could pick up a high-speed digital Hitec. The Hitec servos weren't the greatest things in the world but I'd rather have their top-end than Futaba's lowest spec.
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Jun 1, 2009 19:30
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You Am I posted:HiTec is like the basement bargin crap of the RC electronics world. Nearly everyone I know of has done their best of offload them for a better servo Except their air-marketed stuff  HS82MG's/HS85's, etc and the other largely air based stuff is all incredible, and the majority of the airplane and heli guys embrace it as the standard.
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Jun 1, 2009 19:58
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kuffs posted:What is the recommended way to reinforce critical areas on these things? Looks like one of the bodies I have has what appears to be drywall mesh tape epoxied onto the underside. What kind of epoxy should I use to ensure that it still stays rather flexible? Shoo-goo! I use Mesh Drywall tape and shoo-goo on all of my bodies. Place it on the high wear areas like the side or any place where something contacts the body. Also shoo-goo around the holes on the body pins and any other that are too small to apply the drywall tape. After each race inspect the body for signs of damage. Often applying a bit of shoo-goo can stop cracks from spreading or other damage from getting worse (Rub areas). I do this to all of my personal bodies and they last quiet a while. kuffs posted:SGT. Squeaks, you do not have any rc10gt bodies for sale :P I don't right now. I've been working on expanding the selection of bodies. rc10GT bodies are on the list!
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Jun 1, 2009 20:18
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Admittedly I haven't read all eight pages of this thread, however, I will share my past experiences in this hobby. I started racing 1/10 scale buggies when I was 11 or 12 (RC10B3, for those interested), and hanging out at the local track more and more. I stayed in the "sport" for 4 or 5 years before other things began to take up more time, and I've been considering getting back into it, but at this time I really just don't have the disposable income or nearby racetracks. Anyway, I'd have to recommend the 1/10th scale electric truck class to RC Racing newbies, in my experience, they are by far the most forgiving to drive. I can't say I've experienced much in the on-road land, but I have driven essentially all off-road classes. It is definitely a huge money sink if you start trying to be competitive though... I'm going to echo what has basically been the consensus in the thread that electric is the way to go for ease/performance/wallet, but nitro is really cool. I mean really.
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Jun 2, 2009 01:36
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Ok guys I need a recommendation for a nitro R/C car. I'm looking for either a buggy or a truggy under $200 bucks that is 1/10 scale and isnt going to be a complete pile of poo poo. Itll be running around my dads backyard most of the time. I dont plan on doing any type of competition racing or anything. I've been looking at this: http://www.wonderhobby.com/fofibl24wdni.html Any other suggestions?
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Jun 3, 2009 01:26
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I'm am thinking about getting into R/C racing. I remember getting a ready to race kit (a Tamiya kit I think) as a youth, and it was fun as hell to build. I went down to my local hobby shop and the store clerk there said that most companies do not make RTR kits anymore. I guess kids don't like building their toys... they'd rather have kids in a 3rd world countries build them instead... Anyway, I thought that's lame, it was more fun to build and tweak than it was to race it. Anyway, that leaves me 2 options, buy a kit and all of the parts over time to get the car to run, or buy a RTR car. Well, option 2 is completely dumb, so I'm going to try and build it from scratch. The end result, these are the things I want for this first electric car:
Well, here is what I'm intending to buy over the next few months:
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Jun 6, 2009 18:03
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:
What the gently caress is turbo?
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Jun 6, 2009 19:03
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:
I'm a Futaba guy myself, but if I was in the market for a radio I'd strongly consider a Spektrum unit now. Less batteries, lighter and reasonably priced. The DX3R even has telemetry (which is bad loving rear end) Pretty sure LiPos will work with that motor / esc. You'll need a charger and balancer iirc.
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Jun 6, 2009 19:07
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kuffs posted:What the gently caress is turbo? LOL, I thought somewhere I read that you could use a third channel to inject nitro into your mix for a boost... maybe I misunderstood.... I'm a total newbie to RC and engines in general. kuffs posted:I'm a Futaba guy myself, but if I was in the market for a radio I'd strongly consider a Spektrum unit now. Less batteries, lighter and reasonably priced. The DX3R even has telemetry (which is bad loving rear end) Thanks for the info. I read about telemetry and it sound like a cool feature to have. I'll look into the Dx3R. I'm trying to spread the cost out for this over time, so maybe I'll wait a little longer to get the cool radio. I assume that once you have a good radio, you reuse it on any other cars you have in the future, so it's probably worth saving up for a good one.
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Jun 6, 2009 19:35
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:Thanks for the info. I read about telemetry and it sound like a cool feature to have. I'll look into the Dx3R. I'm trying to spread the cost out for this over time, so maybe I'll wait a little longer to get the cool radio. I assume that once you have a good radio, you reuse it on any other cars you have in the future, so it's probably worth saving up for a good one. Whoops I got the model numbers wrong, it's the DX3S that has telemetry. http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPM3130 Comes with two receivers, one with telemetry and one without. And yes, a nice radio is worth it. I bought a Futaba 3PM 2.4 with 10 model memory. Adding another car to my arsenal is as simple as picking up a new receiver. Used receivers usually sell for around $65, so it's pretty great.
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Jun 6, 2009 19:43
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kuffs posted:Whoops I got the model numbers wrong, it's the DX3S that has telemetry. http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPM3130 Cool, I think I'm sold on the DX3S. It's about 50ish more bucks than the radio I was thinking of getting and telemetry just sounds neat. (Yes I just used the word neat... LOL). Well, there's a local track in Camarillo that I'm going to go check out. Hopefully I won't be the oldest person there, I'm in my 30's and I imagine just a bunch of kids with their Father's.
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Jun 6, 2009 20:16
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:LOL, I thought somewhere I read that you could use a third channel to inject nitro into your mix for a boost... maybe I misunderstood.... I'm a total newbie to RC and engines in general. These engines run on a mixture of alcohol and nitromethane along with some oil. If you changed the proportion of nitromethane on the fly you would have to readjust a bunch of other crap. The third channel is probably used for poo poo like headlights.
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Jun 6, 2009 23:06
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I have a HPI savage SS (nitro star 25) that i hadnt used in 3+ years, so i decided i should get it back in running shape! So first off, i ripped it apart, cleaned it all up. then replaced the (weak as poo poo) steering servo with a nice hitec Metal Geared one. Then... i tried to start it up, and i remebered why i havnt run it in 3 years, nitro is a pain in the rear end! After spending an afternoon trying to get the engine working, i've now given up, and decided to rip out all the nitro bits completely, and go for a delicious brushless lipo system. Does anyone have any suggestions on what motors & batteries i should go for? Has anyone done a similar conversion? I'm hoping to spend less than £150 total. Will it be more sensible for me to just sell the savage (assuming its still worth anything), and put that + the 150 towards a new car?
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Jun 7, 2009 01:06
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theparag0n posted:I have a HPI savage SS (nitro star 25) that i hadnt used in 3+ years, so i decided i should get it back in running shape! That seems like a pretty tight budget, moreover I'm not sure what you'd need for a motor. Certainly look at the 1/8 brushless conversions and start from there, however, to save a bunch of money on a speed control look at Hobbywing eZRun speedos. They're the no-name version of Speed Passion electronics, and as such a fraction of the cost. They have a couple of 1/8 conversion speedos, and the listing for the following shows a converted e-Revo so I'd suspect it's suitiable for you http://www.hobbywing.com/english/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=429 I'm not sure if they sell direct but Hobbyking in Hong Kong distributes them - they're priced at about 1/3 to 1/4 of the Speed Passion branded version. They also have full conversion combos in your ballpark pricerange but I haven't heard great things about the motors, at least consistently. Anyway, I haven't posted pics of my new SC10. It's pretty scratched up from it's first time out - the body parachute effect took its toll, so I cut a couple of holes in the fenders. I think I'll also cut out the side windows. The only complaint I have is about the crappy/tempermental/ancient Associated shock design. I plan to replace them ASAP with either Losi or Kyosho units. I also think the Proline Epic beadlocks are super cool.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image. The 19T brushed is PLENTY fast enough, so I'll use it till it burns out. In fact I went up two teeth on the pinion and it's nearly undriveable now.
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Jun 7, 2009 02:42
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I had no idea there was an R/C car thread here. I've been involved in the competitive R/C car world for a good 5 years or so, electric offroad to be exact. If anyone has any questions about getting into the sport and locating a track and stuff like that I'd be happy to answer. Right now I own: 2 factory team RC10B4s and 2 factory team RC10T4s (one of each are just old rolling chassis, the newer ones all have top of the line electronics), and an old RC10GT. Sometime in the future I would love to get into 4WD with a B44, but I would have to get another full set of electronics as well as a new lipo for it. I've gotten top 10 in plenty national-scale events, my best finish being 2nd in open modified at the reedy truck race of champions.  Click here for the full 1824x1024 image. edit: I am in southern california, which is one of the, if not the biggest RC areas in the world so if you have any questions or are local I can probably answer them. edit2: ElJefeDeJefes posted:I'm am thinking about getting into R/C racing. I remember getting a ready to race kit (a Tamiya kit I think) as a youth, and it was fun as hell to build. I went down to my local hobby shop and the store clerk there said that most companies do not make RTR kits anymore. I thought that's lame, it was more fun to build and tweak than it was to race it. Anyway, that leaves me 2 options, buy a kit and all of the parts over time to get the car to run, or buy a RTR car. Well, option 2 is completely dumb, so I'm going to try and build it from scratch. I was going to answer you in the DIY thread but I'll answer it here I guess. First of all welcome to the hobby, I've had alot of joy and I started out with an RTR T4. I think that the whole RTR/kit thing is a toss up, its nice to not jump into a new hobby head first so the RTR might be better for you, but I've found that if you end up wanting to become more serious, the the RTR's electronics and hardware just make it a pain and a waste of money. It's also nice to build it yourself so you learn how to tweak and work on your car yourself. The T4 is a great kit to start out with, it will be very easy to drive once you get it set up and running, the B4 will be a bit harder to drive but will over all make you a better driver. That is a great transmitter and reciever to start with, I myself have an Airtronics M11 with spektrum RX/TX (definitely stick with 2.4ghz, crystals are a pain) but given the chance I would probably get that transmitter. I've driven other people's cars at the track and I like the feel of it (though I'm used to the M11), my dad uses a Futaba 3PK that I don't like. Whatever feels comfortable to you. While there is nothing wrong with Castle's ESC/motors, it is that motor choice itself that I would warn you about. The 5700 is way too hot of a motor for anyone starting out and is likely too much motor for the T4 period, even in the hands of the best drivers in the world. That is the equivalent of like a 9-10turn brushed motor or like a 5.5-6.5 brushless motor. I myself have always run Novak and can't say anything bad about them, but I would give other companies a look. For people starting out a 17.5 stock brushless motor will be plenty to handle. Some other brands to look at are Novak, LRP, Tekin or Speedpassion. If you only planned to bash around in the park or whatever then by all means you can go with the 5700, it will be more than enough power for what you're looking for but if you plan on racing on a track then it will be too much. Good Dog fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jun 7, 2009 |
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Jun 7, 2009 02:58
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OMGWTFJohnny posted:I had no idea there was an R/C car thread here. A lot of great info here, thanks for the response. I'll look into other brushless/esc combos as you suggested.... I'm not too hip on exactly what you mean about the 9-10 turn, etc etc... so I'll be sure to do some more research. I'd like to try my hand at racing eventually. Well, I took the plunge today. I picked up the T4 Factory Team kit today and I'm 90% done putting together the chassis. I'm going to work on the paint job until I can get the money together for the motor/esc combo (which ever I end up with). I'm pretty excited about the whole thing. I also live in Southern California, about an hour north of Los Angeles. Again, thanks for the info.
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Jun 7, 2009 09:10
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Whoa, RC Goons! Click here for the full 1600x715 image. My Baja 5B. The first time I saw one I knew I had to buy it. And I did. It has since been upgraded with various (homemade) aluminum parts, and a 29cc motor. The torque is simply insane. Very fun to drive, and will automatically transform itself into mangled garbage every half hour or so.  Click here for the full 1600x473 image. Paddle tires are cool, and do a great job in loose sand. For firmer terrain I use the MX Nightmares from hostile hobby.  Click here for the full 1600x723 image. Looks like I could use a front sway bar! The mass of this car leads to a very different driving style than with 1/8 scale. I've also got a losi desert truck with mamba brushless and lipos, a couple of mini-t's, a rc18t and a super crawler. Crawlers are very cool, except they have a tendency to implode, and spare parts can be difficult to come by.
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Jun 7, 2009 13:16
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Nice photos there Astrolite. Looks like something from Mad Max 
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Jun 7, 2009 13:21
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You Am I posted:Nice photos there Astrolite. Looks like something from Mad Max Thanks, my baja was the original RTR which came with flashy orange covers and purple anodizing. The covers just kept sucking up grass and dirt, and the anodizing was a little too  for my tastes. Caustic soda stripped off the anodizing in seconds. Now if only I could somehow add rust..VV heh, cool VV Astrolite fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Jun 7, 2009 |
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Jun 7, 2009 14:08
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Astrolite posted:Now if only I could somehow add rust..
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Jun 7, 2009 14:39
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:A lot of great info here, thanks for the response. I'll look into other brushless/esc combos as you suggested.... I'm not too hip on exactly what you mean about the 9-10 turn, etc etc... so I'll be sure to do some more research. I'd like to try my hand at racing eventually. Well, I took the plunge today. I picked up the T4 Factory Team kit today and I'm 90% done putting together the chassis. I'm going to work on the paint job until I can get the money together for the motor/esc combo (which ever I end up with). I'm pretty excited about the whole thing. I also live in Southern California, about an hour north of Los Angeles. Again, thanks for the info. When it comes to brushed and brushless motors, the lower the number of winds, the faster the motor will be. A 17.5 brushless/27 brushed are considered stock, 13.5 bl/ 19 b are super stock, and anything below that is modified. Just know that even the best drivers in the world usually don't go below a 7.5 brushless for their T4, which is about a 12 turn brushed. I would definitely recommend picking up a esc/motor combo kit that comes with a 17.5 motor, you can get more motors down the way but start with stock or you will end up with a lot of broken parts and you won't get any better as a driver. I'm about an hour south of LA, I'm in like central Orange County.
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Jun 7, 2009 17:12
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:LOL, I thought somewhere I read that you could use a third channel to inject nitro into your mix for a boost... maybe I misunderstood.... I'm a total newbie to RC and engines in general. 'turbo' and 'supercharging' for 2-cycle model engines is bullshit...doesn't work, don't waste your money or time. Most racing/computer/2.4gHz radios you get nowadays are 3-channel, don't know why but all of the good ones have a third channel so don't worry about that. Astrolite - cool Baja!
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Jun 7, 2009 22:28
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krushgroove posted:'turbo' and 'supercharging' for 2-cycle model engines is bullshit...doesn't work, don't waste your money or time. Most racing/computer/2.4gHz radios you get nowadays are 3-channel, don't know why but all of the good ones have a third channel so don't worry about that. Good to know... I'm just now getting my feet wet... working on painting my first body right now for this T4 chassis kit I picked up.... Pretty fun!
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Jun 8, 2009 00:45
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Astrolite posted:Whoa, RC Goons! Oh holy poo poo that's hot as gently caress with bare aluminum. I've wanted to get a Baja for a long time. This really isn't helping me keep my addiction sedated.
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Jun 8, 2009 02:21
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Was wondering if anyone could enlighten me on this: When I left the hobby, brushless was an expensive thing that only track owners ran, and GP3300s were top of the line. Are LiPos and brushless considered standard in open classes now? Are the stock classes still popular? I've always been curious to know how far electric technology has moved on in the past 5 years or so.
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Jun 8, 2009 06:06
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Ryzic posted:Was wondering if anyone could enlighten me on this: Brushless/Lipo is the standard nowadays, they're even roar approved for all applications. 17.5 is considered stock and 13.5 is considered superstock (19t). There is still a bit of a battery war when it comes to C ratings (the higher will have more punch, but its not like before where you had to deal with voltages, IR ratings, etc). Right now the best battery (in my opinion) is the Reedy 35C 5000, this will get about 25-30 mins in stock racing. A brushless esc/motor kit will run you about 250$~ depending on brand and if you get a sweet deal, and a top of the line lipo (like the reedy 35c) is about 100~ (that lipo is 110), but you can still get lower mah lipos that perform just as well, but don't get as good of a runtime. These lower mah lipos (which are lighter and may be better for stock/ss applications) are about 70$. It seems like alot but when you no longer have to have 6+ batteries on cycle, going through a set of brushes or more a race night and motors in a few months. tl,dr (I tend to go on and on about racing  ): brushless/lipo is a wonderful investment and there is a drat good reason it is the standard right now.
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Jun 8, 2009 06:43
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OMGWTFJohnny posted:Brushless/Lipo is the standard nowadays, they're even roar approved for all applications. 17.5 is considered stock and 13.5 is considered superstock (19t). Does the number of turns translate directly to kv? I've never seen a brushless motor listed by number of turns, but that may be because I don't look at the race-oriented stuff.. Also, lipos are literally the best thing ever. I want to replace all my tx/rx batteries with lipo. They're just so drat convenient.
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Jun 8, 2009 09:32
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Astrolite posted:Does the number of turns translate directly to kv? I've never seen a brushless motor listed by number of turns, but that may be because I don't look at the race-oriented stuff.. Not really, although most manufacturers provide a turn to kv equivalent chart, which vary between them. Novak has one on their site. A motor listed by turns will almost always be sensored, by kv, sensorless.
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Jun 8, 2009 14:20
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Had a bit of a staff sale last week, I picked up a sample of a 1/16th scale nitro truggy, plus a complete buggy for spares, both for £20. These are just some kits from Taiwan I think that are the generic kits you can find on eBay, etc., but should still be fun. Looks like they're both in working order, just need to get the engines started to make sure. The cool thing is they'll fit 1/10th scale buggy rears or fronts on 12mm hexes so wheels and tires will be really easy to fit. Plus I got a high-power heli for a fiver, about 500mm across so kinda small, but 6 channel, I think it's meant for 3D flying, eek...ordered some of the training ball things off eBay so I don't destroy it the first time I start it up.
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Jun 8, 2009 15:02
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OMGWTFJohnny posted:tl,dr (I tend to go on and on about racing So, wait - you're telling me that it's feasible to run two 4-minute heats and a 4-minute main on one goddamned charge, at least in stock?  Granted, I ran 12th scale on 1500 mAh nicads and ran for 8 minutes, but it was pretty much guaranteed that you'd be dumping on the last lap. I'm just so used to the idea of having a bare minimum of one battery pack per race, plus at least one sapre, and to be charging / peaking them all right before the race, that the thought of it all being unnecessary is just mindblowing.
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Jun 8, 2009 15:23
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yeah lipo/brushless/2.4GHz are the sweet spot for electric racing, and from what I've seen the equipment to get started racing hasn't really gone up in price compared to 5-10 years ago.
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Jun 8, 2009 16:17
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OMGWTFJohnny posted:While there is nothing wrong with Castle's ESC/motors, it is that motor choice itself that I would warn you about. The 5700 is way too hot of a motor for anyone starting out and is likely too much motor for the T4 period, even in the hands of the best drivers in the world. That is the equivalent of like a 9-10turn brushed motor or like a 5.5-6.5 brushless motor. I myself have always run Novak and can't say anything bad about them, but I would give other companies a look. For people starting out a 17.5 stock brushless motor will be plenty to handle. Some other brands to look at are Novak, LRP, Tekin or Speedpassion. So I've been doing a little research and it seems like I can mitigate how powerful the engine runs based on the type of power I supply to it. If I were to supply the LiPo batteries like I originally spec'd out, I'd be running 60+ mph (my car would be crashed seconds), but that is cut in half if I use the NiMh batteries. According to Castle's site, if I wanted to upgrade to the LiPo batteries, I'd also need to change the gearing to handle the extra power (different pinion gear and spur). Is that a correct assessment of running these motors? Do you think that going for POW motor and then upgrading the power supply/gearing as I develop as a driver is a decent track to take?
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Jun 8, 2009 19:09
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You know, you could just adjust the end points on your radio so that half-throttle is the max. Or, I don't know how programmable the ESC is, but I bet you can play with the settings on it to achieve the same thing.
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Jun 8, 2009 19:12
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OMGWTFJohnny posted:Brushless/Lipo is the standard nowadays, they're even roar approved for all applications. 17.5 is considered stock and 13.5 is considered superstock (19t). There is still a bit of a battery war when it comes to C ratings (the higher will have more punch, but its not like before where you had to deal with voltages, IR ratings, etc). Right now the best battery (in my opinion) is the Reedy 35C 5000, this will get about 25-30 mins in stock racing. So the stuck class is brushless now too, interesting. I've been wanting to get back into racing, perhaps I will make the plunge again sometime, although it looks like all I'll salvage is my M8 and rolling chassis. I wish there were some more tracks around where I went to school though, some weekends I really could use a break. Heh. I don't suppose anyone is around the UP area of michigan?
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Jun 8, 2009 19:56
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Sorry for the random advice question, I picked up a traxxas buggy today because of this thread. I have several old NiCd battery packs (1500mAh). I fully intend to buy new NiMH batteries, but how much more improved are they (i've been out of the hobby a while)? I guess I'll have to get a new charger and a few batteries as well. Should I buy the bigger batteries 4000+ are they worth it? allWesNoMess fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jun 8, 2009 |
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Jun 8, 2009 21:10
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Your NiCad batteries are probably dead (meaning they won't be able to be charged up reliably), you'd be better off getting one or two of the LiPo batteries and a charger - this would probably cost you as much as 4 NiMH batteries but you'll have the same amount of runtime. If you were to get NiMH batteries, you might need a new NiMH-capable charger anyway, because a NiCad charger won't properly charge NiMH batteries.
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Jun 8, 2009 21:36
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