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meatpimp posted:Maybe if you looked at this very page... in the future... Does that page just refresh with new coupons all the time or something?
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# ? May 15, 2009 22:52 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:27 |
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Hey guys, finally managed to find a job (well not for sure, but just waiting on the call after the drug test comes back) after finishing school, so now I'm having to pick up some tools in a hurry, since I didn't really want to throw down a ton of money without having a job already, coupled with I'm going to need them the day after he calls (which is probably going to be monday). I do have a little nest egg saved up to spend on a good set, and I had been looking at some of the craftsman professional sets from Sears, but the stores here in Arizona don't seem to stock them, and they all said it'd take a week to get them in once I ordered it. So I'm trying to figure out how to go about it now. Right now I'm figuring of just getting the biggest set I can get at the local Sears (which is like a 200 pc set), order the big professional set and just try and make do until it comes in. This is the big set I had been looking at (a 432 pc set that would have to be shipped), if anyone wanted to take a look and give some thoughts
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# ? May 17, 2009 03:40 |
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Wagonburner posted:What's a better 12v tire-inflator compressor? I have two of the older style ARB ones, bout to replace one thats died after 15yrs of abuse living under the bonnet of a 4wd in the elements with the new design ARB- Flows 72L/min @ 0 psi. They cost about $300 in Aussie dollars, so they would have to be cheaper in the US, despite being MADE IN AUSTRALIA!!!!!
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# ? May 17, 2009 04:20 |
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You really don't get what you pay for with Craftsman tools IMO (unless you get them at a garage sale which if you ask, people almost always bring out cause they're moving) That said you need them tomorrow. Harbor freight has a smaller 301pc "just the basics" kit for $152 (189-20%). Just so we can sorta apples to apples compare here, Craftsman's 300pc kit is $549 with 2-8% off through microsoft's cashback program. (Google it if you're unfamiliar) With the harbor freight kit you'll probably replace 80-95% of the kit within the next two years. You'll want better everything except maybe the wrenches and a few things you wont use that often and this will basically afford you the time to buy what you need that's quality at your leisure. (I often pickup better stuff cheap in rummage type pawn shops or at moving/garage sales.) With the craftsman kit you'll probably replace 30-60% (because things will get lost, stolen, break or you'll need/want better ones.) with the craftsman you get better quality (but not great quality by any means), more useful tools (craftsman set has line wrenches, you'll need them eventually but maybe not day one because you can use your box end for many things that a line wrench would be better for.) and its easier to get replacements if you don't want to put out money to upgrade to SK, Mac, Snap On, etc. The advantages of the craftsman kit cost about $400.
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# ? May 17, 2009 04:30 |
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Ferremit posted:I have two of the older style ARB ones, bout to replace one thats died after 15yrs of abuse living under the bonnet of a 4wd in the elements with the new design ARB- Flows 72L/min @ 0 psi. They cost about $300 in Aussie dollars, so they would have to be cheaper in the US, despite being MADE IN AUSTRALIA!!!!! Things made in Australia get exported to the USA?
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# ? May 17, 2009 04:31 |
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yep- Most of the ARB 4wding gear is made in melbourne, and then exported worldwide. The GTO is made in Adelaide and imported into the US... well...was.
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# ? May 17, 2009 05:56 |
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Tool Thread, I have a question. I have an engine rebuild to do this summer on my trusty Volvo, and I want to be able to leave my car on jackstands for a month or so. The front of my house has a concrete driveway, but it's New Orleans summer and that means hot and sunny. My side driveway, however, is dirt paved (with a concrete strip running down the middle) and has plenty of shade and lights to allow me to work on my car whenever I want. So, I figure the jackstands for the left of the car can sit on the concrete strip, but for the right, should I put big wood / steel plates down so the jackstands don't sink into the dirt? What should I do to keep it stable and safe?
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# ? May 17, 2009 06:31 |
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Money Walrus posted:So, I figure the jackstands for the left of the car can sit on the concrete strip, but for the right, should I put big wood / steel plates down so the jackstands don't sink into the dirt? What should I do to keep it stable and safe? In the same situation I'd be looking at putting something under the stand with a tire contact patch for a logical minimum--likely if you had something the size of the base of the jackstand you're already there. For short periods I don't know why wood wouldn't work?
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# ? May 17, 2009 15:59 |
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Money Walrus posted:Tool Thread, I have a question. I have an engine rebuild to do this summer on my trusty Volvo, and I want to be able to leave my car on jackstands for a month or so. The front of my house has a concrete driveway, but it's New Orleans summer and that means hot and sunny. Wood or steel is fine, but make sure they're big. Quite big, and make absolutely sure they're level and not tippy or anything.
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# ? May 17, 2009 18:05 |
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RealKyleH posted:Wisdom Appreciate the thoughts, and this will probably be what I do just because time is of the essence. I mean, I have the money to pick up a pretty decent set of quality from a brand name, but the problem is getting them NOW. With Snap-On, I believe I have to go through the guy that comes to my school, but he only comes on Tuesday/Thursday for a couple hours each time. That's just why I was liking the looks of that craftsman set, even if they don't hold their value for what you were mentioning, but after finding out that they would take even longer to attain, ugh, this is becoming frustrating. The good thing about going to harbor freight I guess is that I can pick up the ingersoll rand 1/2" impact and a socket set too, which was what I was told I am going to need day 1 at the place.
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# ? May 17, 2009 18:28 |
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I've had good luck (at home) with cheap air tools especially my die grinders and cutoff wheels. The only exception being my quite weak impact gun. A lot of people complain about locked up air ratchets but usually dont know that WD40 cures almost any air tool problem, especially that one. You'll want a good one if you're using it every day. Since you'll save probably $40+ by buying an air ratchet online or used it might make sense to buy a $16 backup "day one" air ratchet. BTW you can print multiple HF coupons. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 17, 2009 |
# ? May 17, 2009 19:58 |
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RealKyleH posted:I've had good luck (at home) with cheap air tools especially my die grinders and cutoff wheels. The only exception being my quite weak impact gun. A lot of people complain about locked up air ratchets but usually dont know that WD40 cures almost any air tool problem, especially that one. You'll want a good one if you're using it every day. Since you'll save probably $40+ by buying an air ratchet online or used it might make sense to buy a $16 backup "day one" air ratchet. Again, thanks. I guess I should have mentioned first off what I had. I did pick up a 3/8 air ratchet (snap on) courtesy of the voucher they do with the school I went to, and today a former classmate of mine cut me a deal and I picked up a 3/8 Ingersoll Rand impact and he tossed in a small bluepoint die grinder heh. The place I am (going to be) working at works on smaller Ford Van/Busses for the city, so I believe it's like the E350 chassis. I had tried to glean from some of the other guys what I was needing, as far as sizes, and one mentioned 1/2" impact, which kinda goes ugh for the 3/8, but I guess I can still go and pick one of those up.
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# ? May 17, 2009 20:12 |
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RealKyleH posted:I've had good luck (at home) with cheap air tools especially my die grinders and cutoff wheels. The only exception being my quite weak impact gun. A lot of people complain about locked up air ratchets but usually dont know that WD40 cures almost any air tool problem, especially that one. You'll want a good one if you're using it every day. Since you'll save probably $40+ by buying an air ratchet online or used it might make sense to buy a $16 backup "day one" air ratchet. Our I-R impacts locked up when we were deployed all the time. We found that hitting the gently caress out of the casing with a sledge usually did the trick. Probably not good for the tools, but hey, not my money.
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# ? May 20, 2009 05:44 |
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Anyone know if HF is going to throw out a coupon for this weekend on top of their memorial day sale? I'm kind of doubting it, but it would be nice. I still need to replace my lovely cheap floor jack with something that won't break after 3 uses and it looks like a few of them are on sale this week. Trying to use my mostly broken jack stand this past weekend to change the oil in MY GIRLFRIEND'S corolla was the last straw. If you have to spend 2 minutes pumping the jack to get the car up high enough to throw a stand under it quickly before it leaks enough pressure and is too low...yeah that thing has to go.
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# ? May 20, 2009 14:58 |
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The 20%s are good on anything, sale items too. I think they're still active, check this page. I like how you preemptively said MY GIRLFRIEND knowing I'd see you here.
AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 15:18 on May 20, 2009 |
# ? May 20, 2009 14:59 |
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RealKyleH posted:The 20%s are good on anything, sale items too. I think they're still active, check this page. I like how you preemptively said MY GIRLFRIEND knowing I'd see you here. Haha, yes, that was for you. Edit: Ahhh one on the previous page is good until the end of the month, awesome. I only saw the one good through the 18th. Nice, that'll save me a good chunk of change.
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# ? May 20, 2009 15:02 |
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Sorry I am not trolling through the whole thread for this answer, but I appreciate it. I'm going to need a soldering iron. I don't want to spend stupid amounts, but I want the best quality I can get for a budget cost. I'm going to have to solder wires on to the back of the printed circuit for my gauge cluster, as I have a few lines that have burned up, and need repairing, as well as some other spots.
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# ? May 23, 2009 07:27 |
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How much are the big orange HF floor jacks going to be on-sale for?
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# ? May 23, 2009 08:13 |
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Korwen posted:Sorry I am not trolling through the whole thread for this answer, but I appreciate it. My favorite soldering iron thus far is a butane one from Fry's. Bernz-O-Matic and others make them. I've used Weller soldering guns before with satisfying results, and a 10 dollar blue iron from Fry's that worked well until it burnt out somehow.
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# ? May 23, 2009 09:39 |
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You don't want a butane iron for doing anything small. Pick up this; http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC Or, if that'll break the bank, just go to a Frys/Radio Shack/etc and pick up a 25-40 watt iron, which will probably be just fine.
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# ? May 23, 2009 11:00 |
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Hypnolobster posted:You don't want a butane iron for doing anything small. Weller soldering irons are awesome but they can be a bit pricey, although $40 some dollars for that unit probably isn't bad. We used to use the Weller WTCPT at Circuit City for car audio installs and those things are rock solid albeit lacking on features. Then again, what features would you need? I liked em so much I picked up two of them from the store when we shut down. I also have a Blue Point butane soldering iron and a Matco one. The Matco is garbage and was a waste of over $100 The Blue Point was like $50-60 and is amazing. No butane soldering iron is good for small delicate stuff as they all have an exhaust vent that can melt things. http://www.amazon.com/WTCPT-Temperature-Controlled-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28VQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1243075157&sr=1-6
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# ? May 23, 2009 11:42 |
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I use an XYTronics. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7760 Works awesome, and with different tips, I can do big stuff or minute SMD rework.
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# ? May 23, 2009 13:24 |
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Phone posted:How much are the big orange HF floor jacks going to be on-sale for? I think it's $60, then the 20% off coupon. Edit: Just snagged the aluminum racing jack for $80 + the 20% off coupon. Not a bad deal. rockcity fucked around with this message at 16:48 on May 23, 2009 |
# ? May 23, 2009 14:33 |
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Weller soldering irons are awesome but they can be a bit pricey, although $40 some dollars for that unit probably isn't bad. We used to use the Weller WTCPT at Circuit City for car audio installs and those things are rock solid albeit lacking on features. Then again, what features would you need? I liked em so much I picked up two of them from the store when we shut down. I also have a Blue Point butane soldering iron and a Matco one. The Matco is garbage and was a waste of over $100 The Blue Point was like $50-60 and is amazing. No butane soldering iron is good for small delicate stuff as they all have an exhaust vent that can melt things. Just about the best money I've ever spent was on my Weller WES51. It gets used on a pretty regular basis.
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# ? May 23, 2009 22:25 |
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Sears has a Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Floor Jack with Jack Stands set on sale for $40. Not the most high-end equipment, but it's Craftsman and it's $40, and that's a good deal. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950140000P?keyword=jack+stand
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 02:25 |
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FogHelmut posted:Sears has a Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Floor Jack with Jack Stands set on sale for $40. Not the most high-end equipment, but it's Craftsman and it's $40, and that's a good deal. Both this jack and the stands are total flimsy poo poo. The $100 jack and stands deal that they have once in a while is much better, although the jack is somewhat heavy.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 02:31 |
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FogHelmut posted:Sears has a Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Floor Jack with Jack Stands set on sale for $40. Not the most high-end equipment, but it's Craftsman and it's $40, and that's a good deal. Get the $80 US General blue and silver jack and some jackstands from HF while you're at it.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 03:03 |
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Had a jack similar to that, after a few years the hydraulics wore out. It was also very very difficult to jack up a car with when it did work. Not the best for a car, but decent for lawn repair use or as a backup jack when you need one. It was replaced by the $134 - 20% anodized Blue HF rapid pump aluminum racing jack and I was in heaven. Do not get a tiny rear end jack like that because jacking stuff up with it sucks and it will make you not want to do it. Save your pennies and get a good jack. Can't comment on the stands. My pep boys Torin stands have performed flawlessly for years.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 03:27 |
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Can anyone comment on the $75 6-ton HF shop press?
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 04:17 |
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two_beer_bishes posted:Can anyone comment on the $75 6-ton HF shop press? I've got the 20-ton. No complaints.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 04:41 |
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I have that Craftsman jack and stands because it was like ~$30 on sale a few years ago. It's not bad and can hold my porky GTO without any problems. My only complaint is that its heavy for its small size and takes a lot of pumps to get a car up. For the price its not bad.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 08:52 |
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Yeah, I have the HF version of that jack and it's pretty crappy. To properly jack up an MS3 in the front you have to do it by the crossmember and there is very little mechanical advantage with the tiny handle. The travel of the handles starts about 20 degrees above horizontal so if you're in cramped quarters you're screwed.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 15:55 |
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Weller soldering irons are awesome but they can be a bit pricey, although $40 some dollars for that unit probably isn't bad. We used to use the Weller WTCPT at Circuit City for car audio installs and those things are rock solid albeit lacking on features. Then again, what features would you need? I liked em so much I picked up two of them from the store when we shut down. I also have a Blue Point butane soldering iron and a Matco one. The Matco is garbage and was a waste of over $100 The Blue Point was like $50-60 and is amazing. No butane soldering iron is good for small delicate stuff as they all have an exhaust vent that can melt things. Goddamn I hate my loving piece of poo poo Matco butane iron, I need to pick up a better butane/cordless one, where did you get the Blue Point? I've been looking at the Weller PortaSols too. FogHelmut posted:Sears has a Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Floor Jack with Jack Stands set on sale for $40. Not the most high-end equipment, but it's Craftsman and it's $40, and that's a good deal. Just saying that this jack sucks rear end. I went through two of these, and the arm twisted on both of them well under the suggested weight. After using Drunk Pledge Driver's HF jack, I'm going to be ordering after I get paid this week. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jun 1, 2009 |
# ? Jun 1, 2009 16:01 |
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Those tiny hydraulic floor jacks are borderline useless, IMO; they're almost a glorified version of a screw jack you get in the trunk.Kynetx posted:Yeah, I have the HF version of that jack and it's pretty crappy. To properly jack up an MS3 in the front you have to do it by the crossmember and there is very little mechanical advantage with the tiny handle. The travel of the handles starts about 20 degrees above horizontal so if you're in cramped quarters you're screwed. Does that crossmember work well for jacking the MS3? I did an oil change on ramps but since I need to lay out wood in front of the ramps to clear the airdam, and I would have liked some more space, I think I'll jack it next time. Do you use a 2x4 or anything to spread the load?
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 16:46 |
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I was having a great deal of trouble with a crank pulley bolt on a Honda F23 SOHC engine in my wife's 2000 Accord. I ordered one of those special Honda pulley tools that looks like a 50mm nut with a little ear hanging off of it. It cost about $40 online and even with it I thought my Craftsman 24" 1/2" ratchet was going to explode from stress, but it finally did get the crank pulley bolt loose. I had used my friend's 18V Snap-On 1/2" cordless impact on the CPB on my brother's Integra, but it lacked the power necessary to break loose the bolt on my wife's car. I have a 5hp 22gal Craftsman air compressor and a used Snap-On 1/2" impact gun but they weren't useful at all for either CPB. I have a pretty significant leak in the end of the hose I suspect that is related to the general wimpiness. I'm going to do another timing belt in a 1994 Mazda MX-3 DOHC 1.6L this weekend and I ordered a set of Lisle cam lockers. The cams in my DOHC Tracer tried to move around all over the place when I replaced the belt in that car so these should make things easier. When I have put t-belts in DOHC cars it has always been a real struggle to get the belt on even with two people. I've only done one SOHC car and it was very easy to get the belt to slip on. Does this match others' experience?
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 18:46 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Those tiny hydraulic floor jacks are borderline useless, IMO; they're almost a glorified version of a screw jack you get in the trunk. Assuming you have a decent jack it's pretty easy. I wanted to use my steel ramps but they don't clear the front air dam as you say. I think it would be a good idea to use a 2x4 since at least in my case the cup of the jack is only about 2" wide. Once you have it on jackstands you have room galore. I think for my next oil change I'll probably upgrade the rear motor mount. I want to teach my son to drive stick and I'm afraid the Clutch From Hell will scare him off. Supposedly the improved motor mount makes engagement smoother.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 18:53 |
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PBCrunch posted:When I have put t-belts in DOHC cars it has always been a real struggle to get the belt on even with two people. I've only done one SOHC car and it was very easy to get the belt to slip on. Does this match others' experience? I've only done timing belts on two cars ever (SOHC Volvo, DOHC Miata) so take this for what it's worth, but the Miata's wasn't bad at all - I used the trick where you take two crescent wrenches, put one on each flat, and use a clamp to hold them together. Works great for everything except the part where you have to torque the cam gears down, a second person is a near-necessity for that. Kynetx: I have a decent full-size Craftsman jack with about a 4-5" cup, my worry was that it would put all of the weight on a couple of very small points on the crossmember since it's cupped and not a flat pad. Time to grab a scrap 2x4, and I need to bleed it as well - I always leave my jack up at the height of the car even when it's on stands, and over the course of an hour or two it will sag down from holding a bit of weight to about a half-inch gap between the pad and the car.
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# ? Jun 1, 2009 19:37 |
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Why not try the, "cut the old TB in half and slide the new one on, then finished cutting off the old TB," method.
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# ? Jun 3, 2009 00:34 |
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TurboLuvah posted:Goddamn I hate my loving piece of poo poo Matco butane iron, I need to pick up a better butane/cordless one, where did you get the Blue Point? I've been looking at the Weller PortaSols too. Snapon.com has it. Shipping is pretty cheap like $4 or something. Want to buy one of those Weller Soldering stations? I got an extra.
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# ? Jun 3, 2009 01:24 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:27 |
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TurboLuvah posted:Why not try the, "cut the old TB in half and slide the new one on, then finished cutting off the old TB," method. I was going to do that on the Miata myself, but the fact that I needed to also replace the idler, tensioner, and water pump made that impossible.
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# ? Jun 3, 2009 01:32 |