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This is only the second time I've noticed in maybe 2-3 weeks, and it usually goes away after driving for several minutes, and does not come back. It's only just after a cold start after the car has been sitting for a day or two, as far as I can tell in the couple times it has happened.
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Jun 9, 2009 15:18
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The Third Man posted:This is only the second time I've noticed in maybe 2-3 weeks, and it usually goes away after driving for several minutes, and does not come back. It's only just after a cold start after the car has been sitting for a day or two, as far as I can tell in the couple times it has happened. This used to happen to me. My slave cylinder went a few months later. You can see the slave cylinder on the passenger side of the bell housing. Play with the boot and give it a squeeze and see if any fluid falls out.
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Jun 9, 2009 16:14
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Well seeing as it's a relatively easy repair, this might be a fun job for me to get my feet wet with, and maybe I can change the oil while I'm under there. I'll need to buy some tools and jack stands, though. First of all, am I ok with just the little OEM jack for changing tires with for now? Also, what are some recommended jack stands and sockets? Is there a set of sockets/extensions that you guys would recommend getting started with? According to the write-up on miata.net I should only need 8/10/12mm sockets for this. That and a flare nut wrench for the nut on the clutch line.
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Jun 9, 2009 16:26
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Honestly I think a regular open ended wrench would be fine on the clutch line, just make sure not to tighten it down too hard. Have someone else pump the clutch to make sure it's just tight enough (no fluid leaking). You'll want a decent sized extension (I can't quite recall how long). (one of those two bolts will be a bitch to get off from below). Don't use the OEM jack if you're getting under the car. If you're feeling cheap, grab some jacks from Harbor Freight for $20 a pair. Sturdy enough. Oh, and buy a rubber mallet.
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Jun 9, 2009 23:36
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Just decided to go out to sears and scored a gargantuan craftsman wrench/socket set for something like 130 bucks, and powerbilt floor jack, and a pair of jack stands. That should be a good start. Will I need to order anything else other than the slave cylinder, and some new brake fluid for the reservoir? I think I will need some rubber tubing for bleeding, can I pick that up at any auto parts store?
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Jun 10, 2009 00:43
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Did your wrench set specifically include flare-nut wrenches? They look like this: If not you'll need to get some, open-end wrenches won't work for the hydraulic line.
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Jun 10, 2009 00:57
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Open ended wrenches worked fine for me.. what's the difference functionally?
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Jun 10, 2009 01:47
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destructo posted:Open ended wrenches worked fine for me.. what's the difference functionally? Security. There is a slightly higher risk of stripping with open ended wrenches. And these are the last things you want to strip. It doesn't help that they are, in general, small and somewhat more delicate. (I used open ended wrenches without issue so far)
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Jun 10, 2009 02:07
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destructo posted:Open ended wrenches worked fine for me.. what's the difference functionally? Flare nuts tend to be made of brass, which seals better than steel but is softer, and open-end wrenches tend to tear them up. Flare nut wrenches allow you to get more tool on the nut, preventing slippage and rounding.
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Jun 10, 2009 02:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did your wrench set specifically include flare-nut wrenches? They look like this: I've changed 3 clutch slave cylinders using open end wrenches each time and never had a problem. You just have to be careful.
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Jun 10, 2009 04:22
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The only thing I'm worried about is getting enough clearance with the jack to get the stands set under. The jack maxes out at 13" and the minimum height on the stands is 14". What's the safest thing to boost the jack a couple inches with, a sturdy piece of lumber? I was told it wouldn't really be a problem, I'd just have to jack from a lower point than where I would fit the stands.
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Jun 10, 2009 04:28
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Perhaps it's because mine had been replaced once before and the shop that did it, overtightened it - but when I tried to loosen mine I could feel it starting to strip without budging the nut a bit. Got a 10mm flare nut wrench and it came off without a second thought.
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Jun 10, 2009 06:04
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http://www.toolking.com/performancetools_w350m.aspx 8 bucks. Find a couple other things to justify shipping.
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Jun 10, 2009 12:24
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So I think my left rear brake isn't working. The car still brakes fine, it's just that the rotor on that side is rusted up, whereas the other ones are smooth (in the path of the brake pad) since they rub any rust off as I brake. What would cause one brake to stop working, and is there some kind of easy fix I could do? I don't have any idea what to look for, all I know is that the brake fluid is full. 94m miata, stock brakes and rotors.
Elysium fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jun 10, 2009 |
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Jun 10, 2009 21:34
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Elysium posted:So I think my left rear brake isn't working. The car still brakes fine, it's just that the rotor on that side is rusted up, whereas the other ones are smooth (in the path of the brake pad) since they rub any rust off as I brake. What would cause one brake to stop working, and is there some kind of easy fix I could do? I don't have any idea what to look for, all I know is that the brake fluid is full. 94m miata, stock brakes and rotors. Seized piston, the easiest way to fix it is get a rebuilt caliper.
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Jun 10, 2009 21:39
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oh yah, another question about the clutch slave cylinder, how important is having a torque wrench for this, if at all?
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Jun 11, 2009 00:43
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The Third Man posted:oh yah, another question about the clutch slave cylinder, how important is having a torque wrench for this, if at all? Not important at all.
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Jun 11, 2009 01:12
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New to me 91 5 speed, white was red: Question: the airbag light blinks in cycles of 4 blinks sometimes, any suggestions on what to do to fix this?
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Jun 11, 2009 02:51
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FireTora posted:Seized piston, the easiest way to fix it is get a rebuilt caliper. Or a seized slider pin. Easiest way to fix that is to hopefully unseize that and lube her up! Take it apart and see what is stuck. Its pretty straight forward if you get a 10$ Haynes manual.
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Jun 11, 2009 03:52
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beatdown posted:New to me 91 5 speed, white was red:
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Jun 12, 2009 04:06
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I got cut off by a lady in a red Miata yesterday and I was going to rage out inside my helmet till I noticed her license plate was BACKRDS 
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Jun 12, 2009 18:29
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Any particular brake fluid you guys would recommend while I'm swapping out the clutch slave cylinder this weekend, or should any brand I can find at someplace like NAPA do?
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Jun 12, 2009 20:45
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Should I just grab a radiator and a timing belt kit off eBay or is there somewhere better to get them from? It's for my 2000 miata.
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Jun 12, 2009 20:52
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The Third Man posted:Any particular brake fluid you guys would recommend while I'm swapping out the clutch slave cylinder this weekend, or should any brand I can find at someplace like NAPA do? Any DOT 3 Fluid will be fine. AkrisD posted:Should I just grab a radiator and a timing belt kit off eBay or is there somewhere better to get them from? It's for my 2000 miata. Ebay is fine. I'd make sure to get the koyo radiator though. You probably wouldn't be able to get the parts cheaper anywhere else unless you know people.
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Jun 12, 2009 20:56
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FireTora posted:Any DOT 3 Fluid will be fine. thanks a lot.
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Jun 12, 2009 20:57
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The Third Man posted:thanks a lot. just don't keep a bottle of it in the glove box with your registration and insurance details. Who knew it would strip all the ink from the pages!
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Jun 12, 2009 21:02
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Any of you guys want to weigh in on the lifter noise problem that these cars have? Has anyone had any luck getting rid of it with heavier/synthetic oil? It's pretty annoying on my car, and I'd like to get rid of it...
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Jun 13, 2009 16:03
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The Third Man posted:Any of you guys want to weigh in on the lifter noise problem that these cars have? Has anyone had any luck getting rid of it with heavier/synthetic oil? It's pretty annoying on my car, and I'd like to get rid of it... My rebuilt head got rid of my tick. My friend is planning on replacing all his lifters on his car to get rid of his. Some people claim they got rid of theirs with different weight oils but I have never seen that myself.
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Jun 13, 2009 16:49
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The Third Man posted:Any of you guys want to weigh in on the lifter noise problem that these cars have? Has anyone had any luck getting rid of it with heavier/synthetic oil? It's pretty annoying on my car, and I'd like to get rid of it...
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Jun 13, 2009 17:14
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Trip report: welp. I'm a goddamn idiot and slightly stripped the pipe union nut on the clutch line into the slave cylinder. I tried to make it better by going out and buying a flare wrench, but it would not fit over the nut. Some fucker tightened that goddamn thing down somehow, and nothing I am now doing will get it off. I hit it with some penetrating grease/oil spray and tapped the poo poo out of it to try and get it to come off, to no avail. I guess there is a lesson hear, once I felt that that fucker wasn't budging I should have stopped and gone to get the flare wrench... What are my options now to try and get that thing loose?
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Jun 14, 2009 01:25
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If you do end up stripping the fucker, fear not - there's a stainless steel line (I can't recall if it was in this thread 3-5 pages back) that will replace the rubber hose and the hardline. I'll do some searching... edit: no luck going back to page 40  Must've been a different forum. It's not the standard stainless replacement you can get anywhere, it goes all the way to the firewall on the passenger side and lets you delete the coiled hardline bracket that you can never get back on right(tm). Maybe if I invoke savington's name he'll show up and know what I'm talking about.
iscariot fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 17, 2009 |
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Jun 14, 2009 08:12
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Just reposting this:
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Jun 15, 2009 00:32
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Anyone got any suggestions on a cheap cover that will work reasonably well for the Miata? I need to get the NB out of the garage for what will probably be at least a few weeks and because I'm not going to be driving it much, I want to cover it up so it doesn't get full of crap from the tree over my driveway / so the sun stops raping the paint. Pretty much a one-time deal as it will be going back in the garage when I'm done with the truck, most likely.
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Jun 15, 2009 17:15
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iscariot posted:Maybe if I invoke savington's name he'll show up and know what I'm talking about. Your wish is my  http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t20209/
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Jun 15, 2009 20:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone got any suggestions on a cheap cover that will work reasonably well for the Miata? I need to get the NB out of the garage for what will probably be at least a few weeks and because I'm not going to be driving it much I have a cheapo Covercraft cover for my Focus, whose paint I don't give a poo poo about. It has one water resistant layer and has worked fine, even in the winter. The fitment is very good -- I can easily put it on the back and then mirrors, and then front, but it's also not so loose that the wind ruffles it all over the place. Looks like the Miata version is about $100: http://www.gomiata.com/polcusfitcar.html That said, I suspect this kind of cover is really not good for paint. But maybe fine if you put on a really nice wax beforehand.
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Jun 15, 2009 20:32
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kimbo305 posted:That said, I suspect this kind of cover is really not good for paint. But maybe fine if you put on a really nice wax beforehand. The paint needs some serious work, so I doubt any cover would cause more damage than what's already been done (it needs, at the very least, a claying and some serious polishing work). By the time I get around to detailing the car I should hopefully have garage space again to park it in.
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Jun 15, 2009 20:39
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Savington posted:Your wish is my Hey thanks, that was really helpful. Before I go and do that, would you happen to have any suggestions for getting off that nut on the hard line without completely rounding it off, now that I've partially done just that? Maybe dremel it down so I can get the flare wrench over it?
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Jun 15, 2009 20:41
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Alright guys, I need some help doing some convincing of some parents. My friend is looking at getting a car and her parents are paying for it. Apparently a modern, 90s, Japanese "sports car" is unsafe because it's too small. I know that it mostly has 4 stars where the other car in the running, a V6 Mustang, has 5. Enter the problem: omg NA miatazzz! She's already let a 91 with 56k slip by for 3700 because her dad was out of town. As luck would have it, he's out of town and a 90 with 34k has popped up for 4500. To say the least, his timing is loving spectacular. I'm going to check it out on Wednesday to see if it's the real deal with hopes of being able to convince her dad to have a check in hand on Friday (because poo poo like this doesn't wait for anybody). I'm going to check insurance rates tomorrow hoping that they re cheaper, but I need some safety arguments thrown in to really have any weight with the 'rents. ps- i am good with spending other peoples money, no seriously; i got my future roommate to buy an hdtv last week edit for linx http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1217288908.html Phone fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 08:18
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Got a question about a Miata I'm going to be looking at tomorrow. It's a 94 R, and black. It's got 86k on it, koni's, and a thicker front sway bar (used in stock class for auto-x by previous owner). It has a/c, but he took the pulley off but the system is intact and supposedly working. The paint and top are in good shape supposedly, with no rust on the rear quarters or any large dents/scratches. What would you expect to pay for this thing? He's got it listed around 4k and to me that seemed pretty low. Sound about right or is this a steal? This guy has/had a couple miatas and sounds like he knows what he's doing with them overall and kept it up to date on maintenance. I'm looking at this as a 3 season car to be my fun/track car, and possibly turbo it since I hear the 94/95 are easier and better to turbo. Anything I should look out for in particular? Other thoughts? lovely pics ahoy.    
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Jun 17, 2009 01:32
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Phone posted:As luck would have it, he's out of town and a 90 with 34k has popped up for 4500. To say the least, his timing is loving spectacular. The hell, why doesn't this kind of thing happen in Ohio? DreamOn13 posted:It's a 94 R, and black. It's got 86k on it, koni's, and a thicker front sway bar (used in stock class for auto-x by previous owner).He's got it listed around 4k and to me that seemed pretty low. Or this for that matter 
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Jun 17, 2009 01:42
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