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KelvereseAysen posted:It wasn't the height of water that concerned me afterwards, more the speed. The wake was higher than the top of the truck. I've never driven through water like that, so I was unsure. Water got into the airbox, but drained out and didn't get the filter wet. Now uh...whats the story for fording the river? (pun not intended)
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Jun 13, 2009 21:48
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Dark Solux posted:Now uh...whats the story for fording the river? (pun not intended) Huge storm rolled through and flash-flooded the highway. The rain was too heavy that I didn't see the water until I was in it, so I kept on truckin'. (pun intended.)
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Jun 13, 2009 21:53
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Does anyone know what brand and type spark plug is recommended for a 93 Volvo 940 with the 2.3L turbo motor? What about wires? Or will any wire set work?
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Jun 13, 2009 22:27
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I always stick with whatever's in the manual. Crappy wires have a tendency to fall apart on me.
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Jun 14, 2009 03:06
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CharlesM posted:Crappy wires have a tendency to fall apart on me. Never had that happen to me. I already bought wires, I just dunno whats the best type of plugs to use
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Jun 14, 2009 03:29
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I had to panic stop for somebody who cut me off and locked up the wheels earlier today (didn't hit them thank, their luck stars). Before the car even brings the front end back up the CEL goes on, I get to my destination, shut the car off and turn it back on - CEL still on. Car sits for ~9 hours, I start it up to go home and the CEL is still there. It seems to run fine but i thought i caught a good whiff of exhaust fumes from the vents while heading home on the highway. I'm going to keep tabs on the car while driving it the next few days, but is this something I should definitely be more worried about than I am?
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Jun 14, 2009 04:27
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Go to AutoZone (or wherever) and they will pull the error code for you. You can put it into Google and will most likely find out what the error pertains to.
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Jun 14, 2009 06:32
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I hit a Anyway, it tore up a lot of the plastics under the engine. The only functional part it really seems to have affected is my radiator. It now looks like this:  It isn't leaking. The fan seems to work fine, though its housing is cracked/broken in a few spots. Its about to be summer in Texas. Should I drive the car around like this for a while, or should I get it fixed/fix it myself as soon as I can? I just spent $500 fixing my bike, so I'm not exactly excited about more repair bills right now. [edit] I drove by on an errand (using another vehicle) and it was a raccoon! sklnd fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Jun 14, 2009 19:53
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You really should get that fixed, aluminum isn't really meant to take that kind of abuse and work for any period. The Plastic (FRP) endtanks too. If the fan doesn't touch once you get a new rad, just leave it or figure out a way to ziptie it so it won't take out the radiator at a later date bouncing around.
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Jun 14, 2009 19:57
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I'm looking for a new car and I've narrowed it down to a Mazdaspeed3, but it's missing the one thing I want in my next car; a sunroof. Call it crazy, but I've been trapped in a Cavalier for 4 years and I want a fun, fast FWD/AWD car with 4 doors plenty of luxuries (for not a lot of money). Now I know Mazda didn't put one in because it would decrease the bodys' integrity, but how bad of a decision would it be to get an aftermarket one? To put it on a scale would it be as bad as putting 87 octane in the tank or welding the diff. (remember the thread with the truck)? Commodore 64 fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jun 15, 2009 |
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Jun 14, 2009 23:00
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Commodore 64 posted:but it's missing the one thing I want in my next car. I think you forgot to mention what it's missing.
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Jun 14, 2009 23:33
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I'm guessing sunroof (MS3s don't have sunroofs?), but I hope he actually means convertible top.
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Jun 14, 2009 23:46
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus wagon that recently had some alternator trouble. A friend and I (he did most of the work) replaced the alternator in it. The only hitch was that the plug didn't snap into place like the old one. My friend secured it using ... something. Like a gel or glue or something, but electrically conductive. It's held it in place, and everything works fine, except the radio. As in, it doesn't turn on at all. Everything else electronic works fine, and the fuse is fine. Any idea what's going on and what I can do to fix it? EDIT - Also, shot in the dark since I've had a hard time finding good, consistent answers via Google: The rear wiper doesn't work either. Fuse is also fine. Anyone else had this problem and know how to fix it? I know enough to do basic poo poo but pulling everything apart and rewiring it is beyond my skill level. Stunt Rock fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Jun 15, 2009 |
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Jun 15, 2009 00:42
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Throatwarbler posted:I'm guessing sunroof (MS3s don't have sunroofs?), but I hope he actually means convertible top. If that's the case I would not get an aftermarket sunroof. It's cutting into the roof, and they have a tendency to leak after a while. The company may offer a lifetime warranty but if they go out of business it's worthless. Stunt Rock posted:EDIT - Also, shot in the dark since I've had a hard time finding good, consistent answers via Google: The rear wiper doesn't work either. Fuse is also fine. Anyone else had this problem and know how to fix it? I know enough to do basic poo poo but pulling everything apart and rewiring it is beyond my skill level.
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Jun 15, 2009 01:07
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CharlesM posted:If that's the case I would not get an aftermarket sunroof. It's cutting into the roof, and they have a tendency to leak after a while. The company may offer a lifetime warranty but if they go out of business it's worthless. It's locked into place. Even when the rear fluid dispenser is active it won't move. Even if I try to move it myself it won't move more than maybe a centimeter up and down.
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Jun 15, 2009 01:32
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I ask because sometimes the nut or whatever will come undone and it just spins freely. If you're feeling up to it, I'd pick up a Haynes manual or something similar and look up taking off the tailgate panels. Then you could use a voltmeter and see if power is even getting to the wires. If it is, then the motor is probably bad. If not, there's something else wrong.
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Jun 15, 2009 01:44
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I asked this a while back but never got an answer -- What is the effect of really uneven corner-weighting? For example the Viper ACR has something like: 700 550 550 700 So while it is balanced front to back and left to right, its weight is really biased on a front-left to rear-right axis. The ACR is obviously a monster, so I assume the imbalance can be made up by suspension settings somehow.
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Jun 15, 2009 04:18
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Throatwarbler posted:I'm guessing sunroof (MS3s don't have sunroofs?), but I hope he actually means convertible top. Well I was trying to say a sunroof, but a convertible top; now that gives me an idea...  Nah, my first car was a 88 Lebaron convertible and as much as I still love it and miss it, I don't think I'll get a convertible until I can afford two cars. Until then I just want a small bit of the sky. I'm just worried I'll cause severe damage.
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Jun 15, 2009 04:26
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CharlesM posted:I ask because sometimes the nut or whatever will come undone and it just spins freely. If you're feeling up to it, I'd pick up a Haynes manual or something similar and look up taking off the tailgate panels. Then you could use a voltmeter and see if power is even getting to the wires. If it is, then the motor is probably bad. If not, there's something else wrong. The rear wiper isn't as big a deal to me as the CD player. It seems totally dead, but I don't see any loose cables under the hood, so I'm not sure what's going on.
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Jun 15, 2009 04:39
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Commodore 64 posted:Well I was trying to say a sunroof, but a convertible top; now that gives me an idea... CharlesM posted:If that's the case I would not get an aftermarket sunroof. It's cutting into the roof, and they have a tendency to leak after a while. The company may offer a lifetime warranty but if they go out of business it's worthless. Edit: As anecdotal evidence I know of a Mazdaspeed Protege that kind of twisted the chassis after a high-speed jump (yes, that's right) and it had an aftermarket sunroof. The owner said the sunroof may have made a difference. Really though, jumping a car over a bump at 120mph might do that anyway. As for the radio, I don't know, sorry.
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Jun 15, 2009 04:53
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Should I stay away from this? http://staugustine.craigslist.org/cto/1222575120.html /The body and the bottom of the motor have the original mileage, but in modifying and replacing parts of the car I have replaced or redone most of what counts. The suspension with the lowering springs and struts so it still rides smooth, the trans, the brakes with the cross drilled slotted rotors and rebuilt calipers and the top of the motor (with the new cams, injectors and re-tuned e.c.u.). I checked the pressure of the head gasket when I had the top of the motor off, and it all tested good. The trans went in about a year and a half ago and had 10k on it when i put it in. the clutch and the rear-main were replaced about 3 months ago. All that in the last two years I’ve owned it. I just had the brake fluid and power steering flushed last oil change. In the last two months I have also replaced the battery, starter, ignition coil, alternator, drive-belt and tensioner, and the cylinder head temperature sensor. Some of the old parts included. So mechanically the car has a max of 50k on it. The odometer says 144k./
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Jun 15, 2009 20:31
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I hope this request is specific enough. If not, just ignore it. Also, I'll be the first to admit that I don't know too damned much about cars. What's a short-list (probably very short) of good 4WD sportscars, around $30,000? I can drive manual fine, but I'd prefer something with a semi-auto option. I'm getting a new car soon and I love the 370z, but I don't know if I'll be able to take on snow very easily in a RWD car. I live in Jersey and learned on a 2004 Grand Cherokee Overland. e: The only cars I came up with were STi and Evo, but I don't really like the new hatchback STi and I'd like some more options. PodexPerfectus fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jun 15, 2009 |
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Jun 15, 2009 20:42
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colas posted:Should I stay away from this? Sounds like a nightmare to me, but if you really like troubleshooting modified focus(s? foci?) then go for it.
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Jun 15, 2009 20:48
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colas posted:Should I stay away from this? You could get a nice focus, possibly even with the SVT suspension, for 3k. This so called SVT clone doesn't have the SVT engine or transmission.
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Jun 15, 2009 21:12
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PodexPerfectus posted:I hope this request is specific enough. If not, just ignore it. Also, I'll be the first to admit that I don't know too damned much about cars. An audi s4 would probably be fun to kick around in for a while.
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Jun 15, 2009 21:20
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IS 250 AWD (probably isn't that sporty a car actually), or a used Carrera 4?
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Jun 15, 2009 22:28
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First, background. The clutch on my e30 is pretty much gone (5th gear test failed a few weeks ago, and now it clunks in second) so I'm going to (attempt) changing it myself. Most I've done is an oil change and general top of engine mucking about, but with the bently plus a really comprehensive internet guide I think I can pull it off over a period of time since I have a spare car. 1) What is the best way to get the car on 4 jackstands? I'll be needing to get right under the car and have room to pull out/drop the transmission so I'm figuring it needs to be fairly high. I figure the best way is jack up using the front crossmember, drop 2 stands under, then repeat at the rear, but my concern is actually getting the rear off the ground without having a horrible disaster. Will the front stands have enough friction to hold the car, or should I look at doing it some other way? 2) Any issues with leaving a car on 4 jacks for a few weeks? I have some plywood to put under the stands to protect the driveway, and some tires to throw under as well.
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Jun 15, 2009 22:51
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Crustashio posted:Will the front stands have enough friction to hold the car, or should I look at doing it some other way? I lift my car up one side at a time (don't have a good point to lift the front/rear from) and the jack stands seem to be okay. Last time, though, one of the stands shifted a bit and held the car up while sitting crooked on the ground. I should have really re-lifted that side of the car and repositioned that stand. Take it slow and double check everything once the car is up. Your car should not have any problems being up on stands, but I would look at them carefully every day to make sure nothing is shifting or bending.
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Jun 15, 2009 23:04
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A guy in town had his project MR2 on 4 stands for over a year and he drives it around so I assume it was fine. Make sure they're on solid footing and you'll be fine
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Jun 15, 2009 23:20
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2002 saturn SL1 manual transmission and its got about 150k on the clock. Anyways I was driving home today when I noticed that I was pushing on my clutch with no resistance. Stopped the vehicle and checked out the clutch pedal and noticed that there was a rod hanging down on it. I put the rod back in the cylinder area and off I went. The wife is of course freaking out about it and I stopped by and auto shop saying that it could be anything but the clutch may be going out. I can drive it around and the clutch works for shifting gears like it normal did but it is free-floating now and doesn't have anyway to limit the over travel. At the end of the rod there is a ball and I think there is supposed to be a clip somewhere on the rod to prevent it from coming out of the cylinder. I don't think the clutch is going out because I shifted into 5th gear at 20mph and it clunks along and doesn't free rev up to 5000rpm. I figured just a piece of string could be used to prevent the over travel but is this a sign the clutch maybe going out?
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Jun 16, 2009 02:35
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Crustashio posted:Putting a car on jackstands Also make sure you're placing them right. On my Golf, I placed a stand maybe 6 inches farther along the seam on the bottom than the arrow indicated in the lovely bad diagram in my Haynes, and now I have a bent-over spot along that seam. gently caress this picture:  "Front similar" my rear end. And this is the result:  That's driver side, forward. It seems I can safely place a jackstand a few inches more to the left (forward), but right where I placed it, the seam wasn't strong enough to support one-quarter of the weight of the car (ish). Which brings me to a question for AI: what should I do (if anything) about this damage? It seems to me like it'd be really fuckin' expensive to get fixed, so if it's not serious, I'd rather just ignore it. But if its going to allow rust to compromise the frame in some way, I guess I've got to do something? (I live in sunny CA, so, rust isn't normally a big issue)
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Jun 16, 2009 03:01
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Leperflesh posted:Also make sure you're placing them right. On my Golf, I placed a stand maybe 6 inches farther along the seam on the bottom than the arrow indicated in the lovely bad diagram in my Haynes, and now I have a bent-over spot along that seam. Lots of the cars I've ever worked on have bends in a similar spot. I wouldn't worry about it one bit.
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Jun 16, 2009 03:50
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I was driving my mom's Nissan the other day, and it has a CVT. It got me wondering, because of the nature of the CVT, could the car go as fast in reverse and it can forward? I'm guessing there is a limiter on the speed in reverse, but if that were removed, what besides air resistance and would stop the car from going fast in reverse?
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Jun 16, 2009 04:08
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Leperflesh posted:Also make sure you're placing them right. On my Golf, I placed a stand maybe 6 inches farther along the seam on the bottom than the arrow indicated in the lovely bad diagram in my Haynes, and now I have a bent-over spot along that seam. That location is for the factory emergency jack only, not a regular floor jack, or for placing jackstands. It's the pinch weld, which will bend unless you use that special jack. In my experience, it doesn't really matter too much that it's bent, that's not uncommon. The haynes manual should have a location for jackstands and jack location in it, although the picture may be ambiguous also. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 04:27
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CharlesM posted:That location is for the factory emergency jack only, not a regular floor jack, or for placing jackstands. It's the pinch weld, which will bend unless you use that special jack. In my experience, it doesn't really matter too much that it's bent, that's not uncommon. My Bentley manual says the lifting points for a MKV Rabbit/GTI when using a hoist of a floor jack are the same as the lifting points when using the emergency jack.
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Jun 16, 2009 04:59
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/\/\Is my 2005 Golf GL a Mark V? I think it might be a Mark IV, actually? Ah, interesting. Yeah, I was using a 2-ton hydraulic jack, not the dinky thing in the trunk. The first picture is what's in the Haynes manual, under "Jacking and towing", but now I read it again, the text is talking about the factory-supplied jack. . I don't find anything else in there about where to place jackstands. Is there anyplace in particular I should go for? Obviously not on body work or plastic shields and such. On my truck the frame rails are obvious and easy to find, but under the car it's all covered with weatherproofing and stuff and it's just kind of a lumpy surface.
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Jun 16, 2009 05:00
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Petekill posted:I was driving my mom's Nissan the other day, and it has a CVT. It got me wondering, because of the nature of the CVT, could the car go as fast in reverse and it can forward? I'm guessing there is a limiter on the speed in reverse, but if that were removed, what besides air resistance and would stop the car from going fast in reverse?
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Jun 16, 2009 05:04
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I've inherited a '99 Audi A4 2.8 (think I've posted about this car like 6 times in this thread already  ) from my older brother who is a big gay baby and treated the car like poo poo. The leather seats are scuffed and cracked and I'm wondering how I can at least put them in better shape. I've heard good things about Gliptone Scuff Master and Liquid Leather but it's kind of expensive. Any recommendations?
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Jun 16, 2009 05:41
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Alright, so I'm probably gonna be replacing my tires soon. My car likes sport tires, but my question is, living in central Florida, do I NEED all-season tires in a land where it rarely drops below freezing, or can I just run the grippiest summer tires I can find year-round?
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Jun 16, 2009 06:22
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Leperflesh posted:/\/\Is my 2005 Golf GL a Mark V? I think it might be a Mark IV, actually? Yeah, a 2005 Golf is a mkIV. I posted this question to the VWVortex boards as someone there should know: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4437026 Fake EDIT (that was fast): http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2951609
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Jun 16, 2009 06:25
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