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AquaVita posted:Can anyone back me up on this? Someone else told me today that it was 10 years as well, and I'm almost positive that's not true. Thoughts? http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt I had always heard 10yrs/100K, but I guess I was wrong.
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Jun 21, 2009 20:41
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zamin posted:I have an '88 Accord LX, and when I bought it a little more than a year ago, the AC blew cold as ice for the first few days. However, since then it's mostly just a vent, regardless of what setting it's on (unless it's heat and I've driven more than 15 miles on the highway). Sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere and the seller just recharged it right before they sold it so it would blow cold for a while. I *think* they sell recharge kits with sealer in them, but I don't know how much I'd trust that, but it's worth a shot. The problem is that it could be an o-ring on a hose somewhere or it could be something expensive. Do you know a mechanic you can trust?
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Jun 21, 2009 22:56
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Uthor posted:944 posted:Thanks for the suggestions guys. I chose Uthor's method and went to my local auto parts place, where they let me use their OBDII reader in exchange for my driver's license. I connected it to the port under my dash and it returned a code for the Evaporative Emissions Control, P0440. Which, as the parts guys said, was my gas cap. I haven't had one on the port for ages, at least a year and a half. $8.50 later, I pulled the 15 amp EFI fuse for 30-45 seconds as instructed, put it back in and voila! No more check engine light. You guys are awesome, thank you very much.
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Jun 21, 2009 23:29
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Our warrentee for cat converters is 8 years/80k miles, at least here in new york toyota dealers. And no, you cannot haggle down the price of a scion. Kind of a dumb idea, makes it impossible to "shop around" for a new scion because they are all the same price and we cannot change that. Not even employees get a discount on them.
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Jun 22, 2009 00:40
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Buddy at work has a recent F-150 ('06 or so) with the 5.4 Triton engine. He's got a curious sound, like a very slight wet rattle that happens right after starting the engine (not the starter, but right after the engine turns over). I was thinking something like oil pump, any other possibilities?
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Jun 22, 2009 01:24
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my1999gsr posted:How old are your plugs and wires? I don't know Toyota engines that well, but a bad coil or cap and rotor (depending on which of those your motor has) could easily be the culprit especially if none of them have been changed. Pull a spark plug out and see what shape it's in - that's a good start. Spark plugs were good, I cleaned out the fuel injector and it seemed to do the trick -- no problems in 2 days so far.
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Jun 22, 2009 02:22
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Doctor Zero posted:Sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere and the seller just recharged it right before they sold it so it would blow cold for a while. Yes. Doctor Zero posted:I *think* they sell recharge kits with sealer in them, but I don't know how much I'd trust that, but it's worth a shot. NOOOOO. No only does the sealer gum the crap out of everything, if this thing has been leaking, you don't know how much of what its been leaking, what's been put in there (lots of the cheesy recharge kits have "stuff" in them), etc.[/quote] Doctor Zero posted:The problem is that it could be an o-ring on a hose somewhere or it could be something expensive. Do you know a mechanic you can trust? In lieu of that, go in prepared with the knowledge you need to not get screwed. Easy leak diagnosis: you can put dye in there. If you're vacing the entire system, you can even put nitrogen and R-22 in there (r-22 as the trace gas, which most of the leak finder equipment picks up really well - the EPA approves of this and even lets you vent it to the atmosphere as longs as it was only use as a trace gas). Bottom line - get it done right. You can jack it full of things you find at the auto parts store and turn a $100 repair into a $1000 repair in a hurry.
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Jun 22, 2009 02:28
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glompix posted:This thread is really long and I don't have search, so sorry if this has been asked already. I haven't heard any particularly bad things about Scions. They're Toyotas, after all. The only complaint I remember hearing is that they're not particularly sporty to drive around (not sure if the aftermarket helps that). hey gently caress you posted:Thanks for the suggestions guys. I chose Uthor's method and went to my local auto parts place, where they let me use their OBDII reader in exchange for my driver's license. I connected it to the port under my dash and it returned a code for the Evaporative Emissions Control, P0440. Which, as the parts guys said, was my gas cap. I haven't had one on the port for ages, at least a year and a half. $8.50 later, I pulled the 15 amp EFI fuse for 30-45 seconds as instructed, put it back in and voila! No more check engine light. Drive it around a bit to make sure the problem goes away. I had a CEL come on that would go away for a couple days after I unplugged the battery, but would then trigger again.
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Jun 22, 2009 05:35
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I recently changed my rear differential oil in my 95 Camaro. In doing so this requires me to take off the cover and replace the gasket. The instructions with the new gasket say to use RVT on both sides of the gasket. This seems silly to me. If I am going to use RVT on both sides of the gasket, why would I even need the gasket in the first place?! Couldn't I just use all RVT?
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Jun 22, 2009 05:44
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PBCrunch posted:1. My 1991 Mercury Tracer LTS has an R-12 aircon system that kind of works. I want to buy some Freeze-12 so I can top off the system. To buy Freeze-12 you have to have an EPA 609 certification. Any advice on what is the best (cheapest) place to obtain this certification? It seems to be an online test. If there is an R-12 alternative that is better than Freeze-12 let me know. I have no intention of converting to R-134a. My friend has a vacuum pump and refrigerant capture device he got from his dad when he retired and closed his auto shop. Autofrost > *. Full stop. Also doesn't require 609 certification, although IMACA now offers an on-line test. I've been 609 since 99... http://www.cooltop.net/autofrost.html  At your other two questions. I do believe the main reason to not rotate them backwards is they don't have a ride-profile on the back ends and may bend or break the rockers/followers if forced to climb the back-side of the cam.Edit: That freeze-12 is the crappiest stuff I can ever remember seeing, made a phonecall to a former co-worker who had put something in her 93 jeep cherokee's r-12 system then asked me to fix it after the compressor became an anchor, it was indeed freeze-12... Works semi-ok in vane compressors, but will burn a scroll up from lack of oil... Use the autofrost. It actually picks up the existing r-12 mineral oil nearly as well as r-12 itself does... Sponge! fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Jun 22, 2009 |
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Jun 22, 2009 09:11
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If your engine is sputtering when you let off the gas, where would you look first? Sparkplugs or injectors? It's fine when i'm accelerating, but as soon as the foot is off the gas it starts missing and sputtering a bit.
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Jun 22, 2009 17:14
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Im having trouble finding the ballast resistor on an 89 volvo 244. Could any one give me some times on tracking it down? I tried a wire tracer from the 12+ side of the coil but there are just too many +12 wires running around for me to be able to use it. The reason im looking for it is the car is getting weak spark. I have checked the coil, its good, checked and cleaned the distributor, seemed good, but the +12 side of the coil was only getting +10.5v. Im really hoping its the resistor but the issues has been in and out leading the car to run only half the time. If its not the resistor im afraid its something more complex like the ecu. Any help or ideas are very welcome.
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Jun 22, 2009 17:56
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I'm about to take my 2002 Toyota Avalon into the shop for it's 150k miles tuneup. It hasn't had any engine work done to it for the past 30,000 miles besides its usual oil changes/tire rotations. I know little to nothing about cars and I was wondering if someone could give me advice on what services to purchase for it like a transmission flush or new spark plugs and all that good stuff. Advice on where to go to get these services would also be appreciated. I'd like to keep this car running as long as possible so money isn't a factor here.
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Jun 22, 2009 20:14
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sbyers77 posted:I recently changed my rear differential oil in my 95 Camaro. In doing so this requires me to take off the cover and replace the gasket. The instructions with the new gasket say to use RVT on both sides of the gasket. This seems silly to me. If I am going to use RVT on both sides of the gasket, why would I even need the gasket in the first place?! Couldn't I just use all RVT? Why wouldn't you follow the instructions included with the gasket? If you've already got RTV and you're planning to use it on one side of the gasket anyway...
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Jun 22, 2009 23:40
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Ok, so my brother just got a 2002 Taurus SES about two weeks ago with around 110k on the clock. Today it started to leak Tranny Fluid really bad. Of course, he didnt do any pre-inspection and anything of the sort, so he has no clue about its history. Regardless, even though it came with no warranty, is there anything he can do to keep from paying this out of pocket? Shelling out for this after paying 4k 14 days ago seems a bit retarded. It's in PA if that helps anything.
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Jun 23, 2009 00:24
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TheFritoB posted:If your engine is sputtering when you let off the gas, where would you look first? Sparkplugs or injectors? It's fine when i'm accelerating, but as soon as the foot is off the gas it starts missing and sputtering a bit. TPS, fuel should be shut off on decel when over idle speeds. Spark plugs ususally 'miss' under load where this is higher cylinder pressure, not deceleration.
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Jun 23, 2009 00:26
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My GF's 96 Honda Civic has got a sticky gas pedal. You have to press very hard and when it finally gives its way too much gas and it lurches forward. I prefer finesse. Would some WD-40 help? Where should I apply it? If not, what can I do to get the touch back in the pedal?
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Jun 23, 2009 01:39
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Hagetaka posted:Buddy at work has a recent F-150 ('06 or so) with the 5.4 Triton engine. He's got a curious sound, like a very slight wet rattle that happens right after starting the engine (not the starter, but right after the engine turns over). I was thinking something like oil pump, any other possibilities? Do those engines have hydraulic lifters between the valve and the cam? Could be that they're losing pressure and you're hearing some very light valve clatter. Does it happen if you shut it down then start it right back up?
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Jun 23, 2009 01:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do those engines have hydraulic lifters between the valve and the cam? Could be that they're losing pressure and you're hearing some very light valve clatter. I'll ask. I know it doesn't do it every time.
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Jun 23, 2009 02:47
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my1999gsr posted:Why wouldn't you follow the instructions included with the gasket? If you've already got RTV and you're planning to use it on one side of the gasket anyway... Last time I changed the fluid I didn't find the "special install instructions", which is a 2" square piece of paper in the box, so I just used the gasket without any RVT and had zero problems. I guess what I am trying to say is why did I need to spend $5 on a gasket which I read install directions essentially as, "use this product in conjunction with another product that defeats the purpose of using this one."? I went ahead and installed as instructed but it still seems to me that RVT + Gasket + RVT has more opportunities leaking than just RVT alone or the gasket alone.
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Jun 23, 2009 03:05
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sbyers77 posted:I guess what I am trying to say is why did I need to spend $5 on a gasket which I read install directions essentially as, "use this product in conjunction with another product that defeats the purpose of using this one."? RTV doesn't defeat the purpose of a gasket, unless you're into rigging up your own blue goo gaskets. Not saying I haven't done it, but it's NOT in any way a real gasket. They tell you to put it on both sides because people who actually need to read those instructions don't know enough to properly clean mating surfaces, so its more likely to not leak with some crap on both sides. SOME. Not gushing out. Like a skim coat to fill in any digs you made by ham fisting a flat head screwdriver around to get the old gasket off instead of using a proper scraper.
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Jun 23, 2009 03:31
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zamin posted:I have an '88 Accord LX There are two different AC compressors for the 3rd generation accord. The Denso can do r134a no problem, the other will basically kill itself if you fill it with r134a. http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=862585&postcount=10 has some pictures of the different compressors so you can identify them, and it isn't too hard to switch them with junkyard parts (Two hoses, the compressor, and a bracket. About $50 at a pick and pull.) Also, you probably have a leak somewhere. The cheapest way to find the leak is to pressurize the system with air, and use soapy water to find the leak. Unfortunately this kills your drier. Usually you can get away without replacing it, but if you want to do it the right way, you should replace the drier and vacuum the system back out before refilling ($50 in harbor freight parts). As for the wire by the alternator, your best bet is to grab the sensor and plug at the junkyard for $5 and splice it back into your harness. Swap_File fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Jun 23, 2009 04:23
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I've got a 00' S-10 XTREME! w/4cyl 5spd 90k on the clock. I drove about 40 miles on the highway on a hot day a few weeks ago. There were a few stops along the way. My truck wasn't shifting quite as easily the closer I got to my destination. It was harder to shift into 2nd and felt weird (sluggish) in 3rd but still got job done. I had the express lube change the dirty rear end fluid with the oil. It feels a bit smoother now, but I live in a small town and I don't have to drive more than 10 miles one way on a regular basis. I'm guessing the tranny is gonna have to be rebuilt soon. Amirite?
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Jun 23, 2009 04:37
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I have an issue with the front right brakes on my 1997 Toyota Rav4 4WD making a squealing sound, when braking and when driving. Passenger side rotor also gets much hotter than the drivers side front rotor. I took it to a Toyota Dealer for an inspection and they said it looked like the outside pad had an issue with the pad clip or shim holding it against the rotor and that I'd have to replace the pads/rotors/shims/everything, and that hey, while I'm at it replace the rear drum shoes and get a brake fluid flush. ~600+tax for the front rotors and pads alone. This is much higher than the last time I got them done at a chain store, and the Toyota dealer made a big deal about how I wanted OEM parts for Toyota quality, which I'm 99% certain is them just trying to justify a $104 an hour labor fee, and $200 rotors. Now, I just got these replaced about a year ago, since there was a clear groove cut into the the rotors, and I'm pretty sure the drums in the rear aren't going to get terrible in a year and <5000 miles since they were replaced. The calipers are indeed in crap condition and corroded as hell after 13 years in midwest winters, so I got to thinking maybe I can just replace everything there all at once. I found these: Full caliper kit: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...rentId=cat30058 Rotor: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...0058&questions=[] now, how easy is it going to be to actually just bolt these parts on. I've done certain things like replace spark plugs, and that's seriously about it. I'd probably have to buy a better lift than the one that came with the car, and buy a torque wrench.
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Jun 23, 2009 04:50
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Mulletstation posted:now, how easy is it going to be to actually just bolt these parts on. I've done certain things like replace spark plugs, and that's seriously about it. Disc brakes are pretty simple. Pulling and replacing both sides should take you no more than 4 hours or so, if you're leisurely about it. There are usually a couple of bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket, and a couple more that hold the bracket to the hub. Once both of those are off, you take a mallet to the rotor and just whack it off. New rotor goes on, caliper bracket goes back on over the rotor, new caliper goes on the bracket, bleed and you're done. edit: You can do this with the screw jack that came with the car, but you'll definitely want a jackstand as well. Torque wrench is neither here nor there, I've done dozens of brake jobs without one and never had an issue, but someone will probably tell me I'm dangerous and am going to die when my incorrectly-tightened caliper bolts shear or slip. fatman1683 fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Jun 23, 2009 05:52
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The brake line has a valve on the end that I somehow attach to that cylinder on the caliper setup right? By bleeding the brake line, I'm sort of imagining pushing the valve in until fluid comes out and then pushing a quick disconnect in. Of course, this is probably entirely wrong. yeah I'll probably end up getting a jack stand so i'm not constantly in fear of the jack slipping out and crushing me between the rotor and the floor
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Jun 23, 2009 06:32
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decypher posted:My GF's 96 Honda Civic has got a sticky gas pedal. You have to press very hard and when it finally gives its way too much gas and it lurches forward. I prefer finesse. Would some WD-40 help? Where should I apply it? If not, what can I do to get the touch back in the pedal? I don't know the entire answer, but if you try to do it yourself I would use some kind of proper lubricant like lithium grease, not WD-40. You should check the throttle plate to see if it moves freely before trying the cable.
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Jun 23, 2009 08:48
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Mulletstation posted:The brake line has a valve on the end that I somehow attach to that cylinder on the caliper setup right? By bleeding the brake line, I'm sort of imagining pushing the valve in until fluid comes out and then pushing a quick disconnect in. You really do need jack stands, jacks slip, fail, ... You will probably want a brake bleeding kit, some are cheap (like $5), others are more expensive (but can totally be worth it, for easier bleeding). I've never seen calipers that cant be re-built, but maybe yours are really bad. Brake calipers are easy to rebuild (usually you just need new seals, which cost $5-20) per caliper. I couldnt follow the link to the calipers, but usually they are $50-200) each, so rebuilding is a lot cheaper usually. Wheel bearings are usually prety cheap, I'd recommend putting in new ones while you have the brakes off.
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Jun 23, 2009 17:00
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Swap_File posted:There are two different AC compressors for the 3rd generation accord. The Denso can do r134a no problem, the other will basically kill itself if you fill it with r134a. Thanks for this. As for the compressor, I checked it out and I'm pretty sure it's the Denso (it's about 8"x4", barrel shaped). I took it to Auto-Zone, where a friend of mine is the manager, and after buying the leak dye stuff, he said that my system was R-12 and that this stuff wouldn't work. He said this while looking at my low-pressure port.
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Jun 23, 2009 17:17
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Dradien posted:Ok, so my brother just got a 2002 Taurus SES about two weeks ago with around 110k on the clock. Today it started to leak Tranny Fluid really bad. Of course, he didnt do any pre-inspection and anything of the sort, so he has no clue about its history. Regardless, even though it came with no warranty, is there anything he can do to keep from paying this out of pocket? Shelling out for this after paying 4k 14 days ago seems a bit retarded. Your brother is hosed. If it wasn't leaking when he bought it there's pretty much no obligation for the seller to reinburse for future repair unless if can be proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that the seller lied about the condition of the car as he understood it and there was a written agreement as to the condition of the vehicle. If it was a dealer there's a reason why they have the big SOLD AS-IS signs on the side of used vehicles. The good news, is that it's possible the leak is just the transmission pan gasket or something that won't be horriblly expensive to fix. Mulletstation posted:I'd probably have to buy a better lift than the one that came with the car, and buy a torque wrench. fatman1683 posted:Torque wrench is neither here nor there, I've done dozens of brake jobs without one and never had an issue, but someone will probably tell me I'm dangerous and am going to die when my incorrectly-tightened caliper bolts shear or slip. Buy a torque wrench. They're like $25 at Harbor Frieght, you'll be able to use it on other jobs, if it's worth doing it's worth doing correctly, and you'll feel like a badass mechanic because you own a motherfucking torque wrench.
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Jun 23, 2009 19:42
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decypher posted:My GF's 96 Honda Civic has got a sticky gas pedal. You have to press very hard and when it finally gives its way too much gas and it lurches forward. I prefer finesse. Would some WD-40 help? Where should I apply it? If not, what can I do to get the touch back in the pedal? Civic's are notoriously bad for the throttle cables seizing up. This can usually NOT be remedied by spraying with WD-40. It just doesn't work itself up through the cable well enough. It's a relatively simple job to replace. You can go at it with WD-40 if you want, but you most likely need a cable. To diagnose the system, disconnect the cable from the throttle body and gas pedal. Then move each component individually (twist the throttle plate, move the pedal, and push/pull the cable) and see what is sticking. If the cable is notchy and stiff you need a new one.
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Jun 23, 2009 20:32
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Doctor Zero posted:Buy a torque wrench. They're like $25 at Harbor Frieght, you'll be able to use it on other jobs, if it's worth doing it's worth doing correctly, and you'll feel like a badass mechanic because you own a motherfucking torque wrench. I don't know how badass you're gonna be with torque wrench from harbor freight. Without spending big money you're not going to get a very accurate and reliable torque wrench. The best thing to do is buy a beam style unit and only use it for stuff that has a fairly broad acceptable torque range (not engine building).
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Jun 23, 2009 21:57
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ab0z posted:I don't know how badass you're gonna be with torque wrench from harbor freight. Without spending big money you're not going to get a very accurate and reliable torque wrench. The best thing to do is buy a beam style unit and only use it for stuff that has a fairly broad acceptable torque range (not engine building). If you're doing something where accuracy matters, get it calibrated every year or so.
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Jun 23, 2009 22:28
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ab0z posted:I don't know how badass you're gonna be with torque wrench from harbor freight. Without spending big money you're not going to get a very accurate and reliable torque wrench. The best thing to do is buy a beam style unit and only use it for stuff that has a fairly broad acceptable torque range (not engine building). Well, I wasn't totally serious about being badass, but I've been using my HF torque wrench for 3 years without mishap or breakdown. You can get a craftsman one for $50-80 if you are so inclined.
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Jun 23, 2009 22:28
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I used my Craftsman torque once before it started leaking fluid. My Menard's one (identical to the HF one) has held up much better, though I don't use it for anything very critical and am unsure of its accuracy.
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Jun 23, 2009 23:53
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Uthor posted:I used my Craftsman torque once before it started leaking fluid. What the hell have you been doing to that tool so that is even has fluid to leak? Never mind. I forgot where I was posting.
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Jun 24, 2009 00:30
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Is there any compelling reason to get a OE fuel pump for a 1997 Dodge Caravan for $211 (Delphi part number FG0215) over a Spectra fuel pump for $111 (part number SP6143M)? I usually buy OE for my cars, but this is for my in-law's beat up minivan. Unless Spectra has a reputation like that of harbor freight's electrical tools, it seems that they'd be a much better deal, especially for a beater with high mileage. For all I know they're probably the exact same part from the same manufacturer.
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Jun 24, 2009 00:40
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devnull420 posted:Is there any compelling reason to get a OE fuel pump for a 1997 Dodge Caravan for $211 (Delphi part number FG0215) over a Spectra fuel pump for $111 (part number SP6143M)? I usually buy OE for my cars, but this is for my in-law's beat up minivan. Unless Spectra has a reputation like that of harbor freight's electrical tools, it seems that they'd be a much better deal, especially for a beater with high mileage. For what its worth, you should be getting $111 from the scarp yard for that thing rather than repairing it. Put the cheap stuff on. It will work a lot longer than the rest of that bucket will.
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Jun 24, 2009 01:27
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'99 Oldsmobile LSS (non-supercharged) with 100000 miles on it. It has developed a harsh 1-2 upshift in the last 5-6000 miles. I changed out the tranny fluid and filter (there wasn't much gunk in the bottom of the pan), which didn't help. I ran some Trans-X 'miracle fluid' through it, and it got better for about 3 months, and then it started again. I changed the fluid and filter again and again no change. More Trans-X, and I'm golden for another 3 months. Any ideas on what's going on, aka am I looking at a major repair bill?
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Jun 24, 2009 01:34
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zamin posted:he said that my system was R-12 and that this stuff wouldn't work. He said this while looking at my low-pressure port. As long as you have the Denso compressor, you can put on r134a adapters ($5-$10) and fill the system with r134a. Just change the oil when you do it (Get one can of r134a with oil, and 3 cans of just normal r134a). It is a good idea to take the compressor out and dump as much of the R12 oil out as you can.
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Jun 24, 2009 01:56
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