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DiscoKid posted:This is exactly what I'm rolling, so thank you. I would recommend working down as you slow down to keep yourself in a gear that will allow you to accelerate if need be. Make sure you never come to a stop with the bike in a gear higher than first or second as your bike will possibly get stuck and not downshift. This can sometimes be fixed by slamming the selector down but the easiest method is to let the clutch out a tiny bit and all the sudden it will shift down. Not sure if this is kawi only due to the cracked out positive neutral finder or what but my 550 and the 305 do it if stopped in 3rd or above. Also I have never had the stupid neutral finder work on any of my bikes, not sure if I'm doing it wrong but even the 305 which only has 1000 mi has to be feathered to find neutral.
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Jul 13, 2009 05:25
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DiscoKid posted:Another newb question, I'm sure, but what should I be aiming for as I down-shift? I usually drop down to first as I come to a stop from any speed. I'm afraid I'll stall it if I leave it in anything other than whatever gear I'm at or first if I slow down to a near stop. Should I be working down as I come to a stop, wait until I stop to fully down-shift, or what? I usually go to third as I approach the light and let the clutch half out to begin slowing down. This lets me take off if the light changes. As I get closer I'll go to second, also letting the clutch half out, and finally first with the clutch all the way out just as I reach the light, pulling in the clutch when I come to a stop. If you find out you've left it in a gear other than first its no big deal, just be really gentle with the clutch and heavy on the throttle. You'll look like an idiot but you will be able to get going. I hosed up the other day and started in fourth gear. That took a lot of clutch to get going.
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Jul 13, 2009 05:56
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Ok, so I've been broadcasting my indecision in the "should I buy this bike" thread and kind of using it as a "recommend me a bike" which is entirely against the AI spirit, so I'mma take some time off again and decide. If I let my balls speak up for a second all they do is scream "Bandit or ZRX". Monetarily, that would mean selling off the KLR. And I think I'm ok with that. Gravel roading is fun but I'm really not sure I enjoy it enough to justify the comparative lack of road manners. I've been riding since '05, and the KLR is the biggest bike I've ridden for longer than around-the-block test rides. I've never tried to wheelie it. I still goof up picking my lines and power management from time to time. Would there be anything specific I'd want to keep in mind moving up to something that big? Should I put in more time down in the midrange?
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Jul 13, 2009 06:03
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Logue posted:Soooooo new problem first off, a fluctuating idle isn't going to be a "carb" problem per-se. Second, fuel tank additives aren't "more is better", more is BAD. Third, what the gently caress were you thinking? Dollars to doughnuts you have an intake leak. Does the idle hunt? or when you rev it and let go it almost stalls then picks up rpm? or if you let the bike idle is slowly trails off? Now the bike won't start... I'm going to bet you need to charge your battery. If you've got jumper cables, turn off your car, jump the bike.
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Jul 13, 2009 06:18
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Phy posted:I've been riding since '05, and the KLR is the biggest bike I've ridden for longer than around-the-block test rides. I've never tried to wheelie it. I still goof up picking my lines and power management from time to time. Would there be anything specific I'd want to keep in mind moving up to something that big? Should I put in more time down in the midrange? You'll have to learn throttle control all over again, but if you're the reasonable sort, it's not going to kill you straight off the bat. You'll probably enjoy it a lot. I say go for it. As long as you're careful and cautious with the throttle, you won't have any problems.
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Jul 13, 2009 06:25
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DiscoKid posted:Another newb question, I'm sure, but what should I be aiming for as I down-shift? I usually drop down to first as I come to a stop from any speed. I'm afraid I'll stall it if I leave it in anything other than whatever gear I'm at or first if I slow down to a near stop. Should I be working down as I come to a stop, wait until I stop to fully down-shift, or what? If coming to a stop slowly, I'll downshift as I go along using the engine braking to help slow me down. In an emergency stop, I clutch in and slam down through the gears all the way into first. You should definitely be going down to first before coming to a complete stop. If you don't you will have a hard problem getting it there. If you stop at a too high gear, pressing the shift lever will not get you anywhere. You will need to let up on the clutch a tiny bit between each shift. It takes a bit of time and people behind you will be pissed.
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Jul 13, 2009 08:37
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Edit: New problem. I was fiddling with the bike today and after about a mile or so it starts backfiring and smoking alarmingly. I nursed it back home but I'm over my head. It smells differently than a gas fire so I'm going to assume that it's burning oil. It's thick smoke and it continues to emerge even after the bike is off. It will still idle, but it will only barely go and I didn't want to antagonize it. I posted a ways back with some questions about getting my 90cc Honda. I'm happy to say that I was able to get it working (I cleaned the carb again and lo an behold...) without any problems so thanks for the help. Now that I've been able to ride it though, I can barely get 40 mph out of it which just isn't going to cut it. I was thinking about doing an engine swap until I realized I didn't have any idea what I was looking at. So here's the question. Is it worth fiddling with the original engine with bore kits or aftermarket engines, and if so, does anyone have any experience with them. I was just thinking of making a little jump to 160cc or so with better parts being installed as I can afford them, with the idea being that I would end up with something to attack the back roads with and not much else. Or should I keep my hands to myself and just be on the lookout for a slightly larger cc bike for cheap, and go from there? I am a big fan of the CB200's with a cafe look to them.  This is what I'm working with at the moment. It was originally from a '65 Super 90 as was most of the other bits on the bike, and the frame is custom, so it is likely that I would have to do at least some basic fabrication if I did an engine swap. Nyyen fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Jul 13, 2009 |
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Jul 13, 2009 13:21
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Phy posted:Ok, so I've been broadcasting my indecision in the "should I buy this bike" thread and kind of using it as a "recommend me a bike" which is entirely against the AI spirit, so I'mma take some time off again and decide. If I let my balls speak up for a second all they do is scream "Bandit or ZRX". Monetarily, that would mean selling off the KLR. And I think I'm ok with that. Gravel roading is fun but I'm really not sure I enjoy it enough to justify the comparative lack of road manners. 2000 Bandit 1200 owner checking in. Its not a difficult bike to ride, despite its engine and physical size. Its different than a 1000CC sportbike, despite being a descendant of the GSXR-1100. Its not as hard-edged, but it still will bite you if you arent careful. The main things you have to watch on the Bandit all revolve around the torque it makes. For instance, if you're going around a corner in first (in the city for example) and you roll on the throttle fairly quickly, the tire will probably start to spin. As everyone knows, this is a recipe for a highside. The other thing to watch is throttle control in first and second. Any snappy or abrupt application of throttle above 4K RPM or so will result in a wheelie in first and second. Doing it in the other 3 gears will just get you speeding tickets. Basically, all the same warnings you would get for any liter-sized bike apply, careful with the throttle, lest you wheelie, highside, or get a very fat speeding ticket. Handling-wise its a lot softer, and forgiving, so you dont have to worry as much in that department. It still wont tolerate much ham-handed riding, but it will put up with a lot more than a 1000CC supersport will. Overall, its an easy bike to ride, if you're conscious of the fact that you have a shitload of torque on tap at any given time. It handles well and hides its weight well. If you've got the experience to ride a big bike, the Bandit is a great one to ride. The ZRX will be much the same, but makes a little more power, but is also down slightly in the handling department.
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Jul 13, 2009 15:24
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I was reading about valve adjustments on the new Ninja 250R and I see a quote that surprised me. This quote was regarding his local dealership not carrying shim kits because they just don't do many valve adjustments.quote:When I inquired about the number of valve jobs done on sport bikes the comments from two service departments was "they don't come in". They are often wrecked or sold before the first valve clearance check. Is this a common issue in your experience? Am I going to need to have shims on hand in a variety of sizes lest I wait a week for them to come in on order?
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Jul 13, 2009 16:07
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frozenphil posted:I was reading about valve adjustments on the new Ninja 250R and I see a quote that surprised me. This quote was regarding his local dealership not carrying shim kits because they just don't do many valve adjustments. Actually that wouldnt surprise me in the least. 250R's are generally sold as great starter bikes, which happen to be purchase by yes you guessed it... newbies. Highest chance of crashing them, probably sold more frequently than other bikes to "upgrade" to a faster model, and passed off to someone else before major service so they dont need to pay for it. Just plan for a few extra days if needed, or look at some of the aftermarket shim kits that are about 80-100 bucks so you can have all of them on hand.
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Jul 13, 2009 16:23
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frozenphil posted:I was reading about valve adjustments on the new Ninja 250R and I see a quote that surprised me. This quote was regarding his local dealership not carrying shim kits because they just don't do many valve adjustments. No need for shims on the 250, you just have to adjust the tappets, There's a factory tool that makes it a bit easier that I bought and really like, but if you've got a good tool set you should be fine. edit: bam http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_adjustment_procedure%3F blugu64 fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jul 13, 2009 |
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Jul 13, 2009 17:16
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blugu64 posted:No need for shims on the 250, it's you just have to adjust the tappets, There's a factory tool that makes it a bit easier that I bought and really like, but if you've got a good tool set you should be fine. I've not seen this to be true for the 2008/2009 250Rs.
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Jul 13, 2009 17:18
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frozenphil posted:I've not seen this to be true for the 2008/2009 250Rs. Ah, fair enough, at least on the prehistory-2007 models it's done that way. 
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Jul 13, 2009 17:20
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For those wondering, here's the valve adjustment guide I was reading. Looks like a bitch. I'm also digging the "from the factory" incorrectly set mixture screws which need the plugs drilled out and the mixture set properly.
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Jul 13, 2009 17:58
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frozenphil posted:I was reading about valve adjustments on the new Ninja 250R and I see a quote that surprised me. This quote was regarding his local dealership not carrying shim kits because they just don't do many valve adjustments. Save yourself the trouble and just buy a hot cams shim kit. I find it interesting that they switched from the screw type adjuster to shim under bucket though. Anyways, 7.48 is a very common shim size, I've used mine in the ZX6E, ZX6R, SV650, FZR600, etc. Edit: Almost all bikes are mixture raped from the factory to pass the emissions tests at certain RPM.
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Jul 13, 2009 17:59
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Z3n posted:Save yourself the trouble and just buy a hot cams shim kit. I find it interesting that they switched from the screw type adjuster to shim under bucket though. Anyways, 7.48 is a very common shim size, I've used mine in the ZX6E, ZX6R, SV650, FZR600, etc. Yea hot cams, forgot the drat name. How well do they hold up compared to OE shims? Same heat cycle treatment for hardness?
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Jul 13, 2009 18:07
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dietcokefiend posted:Yea hot cams, forgot the drat name. How well do they hold up compared to OE shims? Same heat cycle treatment for hardness? I would assume so. I've never had a problem with them.
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Jul 13, 2009 18:11
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blugu64 posted:No need for shims on the 250, you just have to adjust the tappets, There's a factory tool that makes it a bit easier that I bought and really like, but if you've got a good tool set you should be fine. Where do you get this special tool? There are four valves that you can't reach with a wrench on the Vulcan 500, which means using a socket, which means you can't hold the adjustment screw while tightening. I've done it, but it requires a bunch of trial and error to get right. The FAQ says a non-Kawasaki tool won't work on the Ninja 250; I wonder if that's true for my Vulcan.
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Jul 13, 2009 18:38
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Z3n posted:Save yourself the trouble and just buy a hot cams shim kit. I find it interesting that they switched from the screw type adjuster to shim under bucket though. Anyways, 7.48 is a very common shim size, I've used mine in the ZX6E, ZX6R, SV650, FZR600, etc. That's what the guy who made that guide I linked goes on to say he used. I'm picking mine up this weekend most likely so I won't have to deal with it for a while.
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Jul 13, 2009 18:49
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frozenphil posted:That's what the guy who made that guide I linked goes on to say he used. I'm picking mine up this weekend most likely so I won't have to deal with it for a while. Did I miss the part where you bought a new 250? 
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Jul 13, 2009 19:15
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Z3n posted:Did I miss the part where you bought a new 250? I haven't bought it yet, but that's what I'm getting. The wife decided that it was dumb to get an SV since the 250 would be better to learn on and she can use it once I am ready to move on to a different bike. She won't let me buy one of the "ugly" pre 2008 250s and the cost difference from new in this area isn't worth the hassle of buying used.
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Jul 13, 2009 19:24
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frozenphil posted:I haven't bought it yet, but that's what I'm getting. The wife decided that it was dumb to get an SV since the 250 would be better to learn on and she can use it once I am ready to move on to a different bike. She won't let me buy one of the "ugly" pre 2008 250s and the cost difference from new in this area isn't worth the hassle of buying used. Ahh, good times. If you're the sort, it's good to check early in the lifetime of the bike just to get some idea of what adjustment interval you'd be looking at. Some riders will wear valves faster than others, and who knows what the factory set them at.
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Jul 13, 2009 19:36
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frozenphil posted:She won't let me buy one of the "ugly" pre 2008 250s HEY! Uthor posted:Where do you get this special tool? There are four valves that you can't reach with a wrench on the Vulcan 500, which means using a socket, which means you can't hold the adjustment screw while tightening. I've done it, but it requires a bunch of trial and error to get right. The FAQ says a non-Kawasaki tool won't work on the Ninja 250; I wonder if that's true for my Vulcan. I ordered mine from bike bandit, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Is_there_a_special_tool_to_make_this_easier%3F You might see if there is a specific tool for the Vulcan 500.
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Jul 13, 2009 19:37
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Nerobro posted:first off, a fluctuating idle isn't going to be a "carb" problem per-se. Second, fuel tank additives aren't "more is better", more is BAD. Third, what the gently caress were you thinking? If you read my other post, I didn't put a lot in. Actually the idle is much better now after running it for a while and adjusting the idle screw. But you are right, when I rev it and let go, it actually does stall. This also happened when I was running it up and down my block, I shifted from 1st to 2nd gear and let the revs fall. Stalled when I was moving. There could be another issue tho, I only just realized. I never even thought about what gas i should be putting in. What octane do these bikes (Honda CM450) usually run on?
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Jul 13, 2009 23:19
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Prety much anything that hasn't been sitting in a jerry can for 20 years.  Regular should be fine.
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Jul 13, 2009 23:41
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This site says 91 octane, but I'd be surprised. See if you can track down an owner's manual and check that.
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Jul 14, 2009 02:36
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Doctor Zero posted:This site says 91 octane, but I'd be surprised. See if you can track down an owner's manual and check that. Since they don't list it it's hard to tell if they mean RON or PON. 91 RON = 87 PON.
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Jul 14, 2009 03:43
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frozenphil posted:Since they don't list it it's hard to tell if they mean RON or PON. 91 RON = 87 PON. It's a European site, so I would assume that, also.
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Jul 14, 2009 04:08
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Well, a friend of mine bought a 1978 Honda CB400, and I have a couple questions. She is just learning to ride, and from riding this bike from Michigan to Chicago I realized it will be perfect for learning. I love riding the thing, very different from my vulcan 800, and it just loves corners...except... Once it gets over 55mph, it starts shaking like mad, like a high speed shimmy. It can be controlled by gripping the bars really tight and swaying slowly in the lane. Also, with the owner riding passenger, and me driving, it went away. Isn't this the opposite of what it should be, considering someone on the back would unload the front and make it less stable? I have already checked the rear tire alignment (perfect), and the steering head bearings are smooth as silk. Our next step would be replacing the tires, but she is low on money currently and cant afford them. What other things should we be checking? Also, not sure if this is me being used to my 800, but it seems like it is hardly able to go much over 70mph. When I'm riding in 5th gear at 60-70, it seems like as I twist the throttle from closed to open, it gains power for the first 40%, then starts losing power and surging a bit if I open it further. The guy who owned the bike before her said he rebuilt, tuned, and balanced the carbs, and I have not touched them at all. The fuel mileage on the trip from MI to Chicago was horrid, like 32mpg. Is it over jetted possibly, or is something sticking?
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Jul 14, 2009 04:14
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A bike that behaves in a dangerous and unpredictable manner is not a good learning machine, just sayin. I'd be looking at the following, and right away-tire pressures. Rim straightness. Steering head bearings and swing arm bearings. given that it gets better with more wieght, I'm thinking the swingarm bearings are pooched. Shocks and forks, in particular, how does the oil in the forks look, assuming there is any? Something is setting up oscillations in the chassis that aren't getting damped out, by weaving the bike you are disappating the energy stored in the chassis...but we don't want to do that. As for the carbs, I suspect the vacuum pistons aren't working quite right. On my 1980 CM400, instead of diaphrams the carbs use a vacuum piston and if there is any leak anywhere the carbs run like crap. The carbs on mine drove me nuts for a while.
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Jul 14, 2009 07:15
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Logue posted:Actually the idle is much better now after running it for a while and adjusting the idle screw. But you are right, when I rev it and let go, it actually does stall. *snip* What octane do these bikes (Honda CM450) usually run on? The gas doesn't matter in the regieme that you're running the bike. You could be running it on 66 ocatne poo poo and it would be fine. Truthfully, the bike likely is designed for 79 octane and up. ick pik posted:Once it gets over 55mph, it starts shaking like mad, like a high speed shimmy. *snip* What other things should we be checking? quote:Also, not sure if this is me being used to my 800, but it seems like it is hardly able to go much over 70mph. When I'm riding in 5th gear at 60-70, it seems like as I twist the throttle from closed to open, it gains power for the first 40%, then starts losing power and surging a bit if I open it further. The guy who owned the bike before her said he rebuilt, tuned, and balanced the carbs, and I have not touched them at all. The fuel mileage on the trip from MI to Chicago was horrid, like 32mpg. Is it over jetted possibly, or is something sticking?
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Jul 14, 2009 08:01
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ick pik posted:
Take a look at the air filter. When I over oiled mine, the throttle started responding like that.
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Jul 14, 2009 08:21
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Halo_4am posted:I think I will try packing RTV into it from the outside, that's what I had to use to fix the last one since it turned out there was no actual gasket in the first place, and was a silicone seal from day-1. It has been fine since, but obviously it's a little different to apply properly vs attempting to patch from the outside. Well I didn't get around to patching it yet and I'm glad I didn't. I noticed today that in addition to oil leaking out there is now a neon green substance. I suspect that to be coolant, and if I know anything that means it's mixing with oil which is very very bad  What do I do now?
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Jul 14, 2009 15:50
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Halo_4am posted:Well I didn't get around to patching it yet and I'm glad I didn't. I noticed today that in addition to oil leaking out there is now a neon green substance. I suspect that to be coolant, and if I know anything that means it's mixing with oil which is very very bad If you are seeing neon green stuff on its on you might still be in the clear. Besides what you see on the outside of your case, is there any mixing internally?
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Jul 14, 2009 15:52
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dietcokefiend posted:If you are seeing neon green stuff on its on you might still be in the clear. Besides what you see on the outside of your case, is there any mixing internally? I'm pretty sure there's oil there too since that was visible before the coolant. I took the bike to work today and just noticed while outside... going to drain the oil when I get home and see what I find. Hopefully the miles home won't cause any damage if there is actual mixing going on. Is there a 'coolant leak 101' link somebody can point me at? Google is just giving me a bunch of questions with few answers outside 'take it to a shop'. How would there be a leak outside the case (not near any hoses) and have it *not* be mixing?
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Jul 14, 2009 16:09
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Halo_4am posted:I'm pretty sure there's oil there too since that was visible before the coolant. I took the bike to work today and just noticed while outside... going to drain the oil when I get home and see what I find. Hopefully the miles home won't cause any damage if there is actual mixing going on. Bikes are small enough that you could have a leak up top near a hose that finds a crack or groove to take a path to a new location.
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Jul 14, 2009 16:19
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My father and I began work on a TR6 recently and everything was coming out perfect. The only problem we've come across was with the original Amal carburetor. When we tighten down the Main jet assembly, the force it puts on the Jet block moves it slightly in the body, just enough that it is causing the throttle slide to bind. We think the bind is along the guide groove on the Jet block and the rail on the Throttle slide that sits in it. The slide is free otherwise. Has anyone come across this problem, and if so, any advice. There is a diagram here: http://www.amalcarburettors.co.uk/carb_03.htm
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Jul 14, 2009 23:19
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dietcokefiend posted:Bikes are small enough that you could have a leak up top near a hose that finds a crack or groove to take a path to a new location. I have had exactly this happen to me. See a fluid, think it's oil because it is coming out near the case, realize it's coolant, flip-out, find that it's coming from a hose that is about a foot away from where it was collecting/dripping.
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Jul 15, 2009 16:21
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I am starting to think that could be more like it. I drained the oil yesterday and it was tan to light brown, which makes sense since I changed the oil a mere 100-150 miles ago. It didn't seem particularly foamy, thin, or dark brown. I checked the oil and not a drop increase since I changed it. The engine is not making any unusual noised or running especially hot. Also... as you said, if it's still green it's probably not actually coming out of the engine as it would more than likely already be mixed and ... not green. So today I'm going to pull the tank off and see if I can get a better look at anything. Shop manual says a compression test is a great way to identify these sort of things and suggests getting a compression tester which seems overpriced at $40. It's basically a bicycle pump with a couple of adapters and a simple gauge... seems like $10-$20 is more like it. Oh well.
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Jul 15, 2009 21:27
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If anyone is thinking about that nice cheap Harbor Freight rear stand you might want to think again. Mine failed last night, sending my SV650 toppling over, thankfully into a brand new cooler which broke its fall.  Yea... they aren't supposed to look like that.
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Jul 15, 2009 23:44
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