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Laserface posted:All these shortcourse trucks on the market makes it reaaaaaaaaaally hard to avoid getting back into this money pit of a hobby Edit-was anyone ever into boats at all. I used to have the MRP miss bud and bud lights. Both of those things were fast but the bud light was much more fun to use. Also for a time I had a weed whipper dumas, that thing would run for hours but pissed off the neighbors so much at the cabin. stgdz fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jul 28, 2009 |
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Jul 28, 2009 13:19
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krushgroove posted:don't know, don't care Yeah, the "small man syndrome" models (as I call them) usually piss me off. Sometimes they are nice though because they include revised/hop-up parts but usually its just a wank factor. I was really pumped to buy a HPI cup racer then I realised they are quite a bit smaller than an average EP car and thus wouldnt be able to run anything but cup racer bodies and got a little put off. They are a Mini class, arent they? My local track (which I havent been to or run on yet since I have no car) is perfect for minis right now but its getting expanded to a basketball-court sized area in the coming months so I dont want my class of choice to vanish and be stuck with a car I can only run in my street again. But I would be pretty happy alternating between that AE86 and the 510 while swapping Lipo packs all day so who knows.
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Jul 28, 2009 16:15
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Laserface posted:They are a Mini class, arent they? Yes, if you are definitely interested in racing. If you want to just run it and enjoy the way it looks, or (even better) run it around with a friend you can get to drag an old touring car out or buy a street basher, all the better. Ideally, I want to get a Blitz, make a trailer for it to haul a Cup Racer, and make a fitting to fit **!!super secret extra-cool project!!** But I have to get a Cup Racer first, then a Blitz 
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Jul 28, 2009 17:58
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Laserface posted:Yeah, the "small man syndrome" models (as I call them) usually piss me off. Sometimes they are nice though because they include revised/hop-up parts but usually its just a wank factor. I think the ricer mentality exists in all forms of racing. I saw a Rustler on rctech.net the other day that had a custom machined aluminum chassis. On top of that he had a full set of aluminum arms, aluminum (why not get titanium?) turnbuckles, and piggyback shocks. You know, at least with plastic it will just flex a bit. Aluminum is just going to bend under any kind of serious stress. And then there's the part about dumping $300 worth of parts with negligible performance benefits on a $200 car. I also like the guys that put mods on their factory team trucks. Hey guys, you know that's pretty much the exact car they just won the worlds with, right? Really, invest your time in the track. I think the fact that I seem to be reasonably competitive (locally) with a blue chassis RC10GT is evidence enough for practice over gear. (And I still need a lot more practice to beat that kid)
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Jul 28, 2009 22:22
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A Main has the Blitz for preorder, $195. Expected Oct 22.
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Jul 29, 2009 03:23
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9-jZ_X8euw Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck I wish the rally class would catch on.
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Jul 29, 2009 05:20
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kuffs posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9-jZ_X8euw I really, really need to stop reading this thread. Ive mentally spent about $2000 already.
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Jul 29, 2009 05:35
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kuffs posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9-jZ_X8euw This is killer, get me some Group B bodies for it and I'd be a very poor man.
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Jul 29, 2009 05:41
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Hey i just noticed this thread which is drat cool cos i just finished my Tamiya tb03 which was my first more advanced build. i have to get the electrics but after that it should be fun. ^ group B bodies need to be done also Tamiya needs to release the Lancia delta body on there df03ra to warrant the purchase.
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Jul 29, 2009 08:31
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I just noticed this thread and wanted to check in here. I was never much of an R/C car person actually since my father raised me right and taught me how to fly R/C planes instead. However, I do work at a hobby shop currently and I'd be happy to try and answer questions people might have. These days I mostly fly airplanes and helicopters but I'm around cars all day and have pretty good knowledge about them, especially batteries and chargers.
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Jul 29, 2009 08:48
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krushgroove posted:God dammit that's tempting but I just got a SC-10 thanks to this thread. I also got a Cup Racer a couple months ago because of it. I'd be curious to see how much this thread has cost everyone in dollars put together. compressioncut posted:If you get one order MIP CVDs along with it (about $20) to nip the problem in the bud. I assume you ordered the ones for the B4? Laserface posted:So whats considered to be the best short course truck on the market at the moment? I guess I'd need RTR since I sold all my gear not long ago, but will definitely be swapping all the parts out so Im really after a good platform that has out of the box advantages, but plenty of room to upgrade into a racer/all out brushless monster. To chime in my two cents about SCTs, I opted for the SC-10 because I already had a Spektrum DX3S I bought for the Cup Racer and it came with an extra telemetry receiver plus I always planned to go with a high end brushless motor (I got a Castle Creations Mamba 4600) and already had a bunch of LiPo batteries (10x Team Orion 2400mah). I also wanted to buy a kit I had to put together myself so if anything ever broke I'd know the proper way to fix it. While it's true that the Slash has more Hop Up support now, the fact that Losi, AE, and HPI are making trucks for this class means that all of them will have roughly equal parts availability before long. My one complaint about the SC-10 is that they didn't put a cover on the electronics pan. Traxxas is the only one of the now four major R/C companies making these things that got this right. Unlike the buggies they're based on, the SCTs throw dirt and mud and grass and children's tears, whatever you're driving over, under the body and right on top of all that fancy silicon you just crammed in the fucker. If you don't already have any gear and aren't sure whether or not you want to go full bore bonkers with this hobby go with the Slash RTR. All I can tell you about the SC-10 is that this cocksucker is motherfucking indestructible. You could drive this sonuvabitch through the center of a quantum singularity and it would pop out the other side unscathed and land on it's wheels. Speaking of my SC-10, yesterday was my day off and I did some light bashing. I live in San Francisco and wanted to just destroy Golden Gate Park so I grabbed another Goon I work with and we got up early and set out for the beach on the west side of the park. Our first stop was Cliffside which is, as you may have guessed, a huge fuckoff cliff. So being the manchildren that we are we jumped the mother down a 100' cliff at about a 10 degree angle and the little bastard ran down it twice on all fours the whole way. Next we wanted to mix it up and jumped it some more in the dunes with equal success as the truck handled the dry beach sand like a buggy and tore through it no problem leaving five foot high rooster tails behind it. The big fun was just ahead when we took it to the shore and blasted through batteries chasing seagulls on the hard wet sand just feet from the tide. You could go full bore the whole way and it was impossible to flip. You just kept powersliding in the surf for huge drifts. This was a hoot but we had a long day ahead of us. We were planning on running the car down the back woods, unpaved trails for the entire 3.3 mile length of the park. Keep in mind that's 3.3 miles as the crow flies, in reality there were hundreds of miles of trails both marked and unmarked between point A and point B and we had until sundown to hit as much of it as possible. In the park the truck was a dream. It's a blast just taking it down the paved trails and hitting up the dozens of huge empty parking lots along the way but that's not why I bought this bitch. We always took the roughest possible route that still went easterly even if this meant the truck had to do double duty as as crawler. Now let me tell you, I've never owned a R/C car that was classified as a crawler but unless those things have little Animatronic redneck drivers who get out and use a tiny winch and Popsicle sticks to dig the thing out, I'll stick with this beast cuz it does the job just fine. At times it was like a choose your own adventure novel only you wanted to make all the wrong choices, you wanted that creepy dark overgrown path or that rocky trail that lead to utter destruction. Most of the fun was just taking the hike itself and having the truck chase along behind us like a puppy bouncing with energy. In a way it felt like rallying. Covering long distances through multiple types of terrain in a race against the clock. And I'll be damned if it didn't look like a rally truck with it's rear end drifting through the tight dirt corners of the trail. We ended up at Hippy Hill at the mouth of Haight Ashburry, the end of our journey, just as an apocalyptic looking fog approached the city so we split a joint among those godless animals and watched roll in. And for one day I was ten years old. Bashing through the woods and getting dirty with a good friend and an awesome toy. A toy the likes of which would have melted my ten year old, Pac Man generation brains right out of my ears and onto my Hypercolor shirt. I only get one day off a week and I have a family and adult type responsibilities. That day I didn't do any chores around the house, didn't return any e-mails or voicemails, didn't go shopping, didn't even see my wife, and have already invested well over a thousand dollars in this hobby. And all I can think is that my next day off is six days away and that I have seven new batteries being express shipped to my door. This is the first summer I've had in twenty years. James Woods fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 10:38
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 THEY'RE SPAWNING! AAAAWHGANGSDLGKJA;SLKGN! Laserface posted:so what came first Scott Brown of Team Associated took first, driving the SC10. They were also using J Concepts Racing tires. Conan the Librarian posted:
Which heli's do you fly? Which hobby shop do you work at? James Woods posted:I live in San Francisco So I am guessing that you go to Mike/Ricky @ Hobbytown in Concord? Or do you make the trip up to see Jake @ Jakes Performance Hobbies? There are even a few hobby manufacturers that are in the Bay Area (or nearby). Team FastEddy, Darksoul Racing. QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? I have a local retail store that I used to work at called West Valley Hobbies in Salt Lake City. It is the areas largest retail hobby shop where if they don't stock it, it is probably not worth having. For online stuff - A Main Hobbies out of Chico, CA is hugenormous and pretty excellent. I also want to know, because either I, or my co-workers probably sell stuff to them
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Jul 29, 2009 23:45
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There are a couple of RC shops locally that I mainly deal with for paints mainly. For parts and chassis, I deal with online/overseas stores. In Japan the two best shops are RC Champ and Rainbow Ten. Both of them have barely any online inventory system to speak of, so you deal with them mainly with emails. In Hong Kong there is RC Mart. Huge place, prices are a little more expensive than the Japanese stores, but has a far larger line of products plus a proper online store. In the US there is Stormer Hobbies, Tower Hobbies and Speedtech RC.
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Jul 30, 2009 00:02
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James Woods posted:I assume you ordered the ones for the B4? No, T4. B4 axles will be too short. Then you can remove the limiters in the shocks to get more droop without worrying about dogbones dropping out. That said, the box-stock setup is just fine. I'd also recommend getting some B44 rear hubs and bearings if you're going to be putting much power to it. I got the STRC 1* aluminum hubs, which are sweet and add a little rear toe, but they still use the stock (small) bearings. To get it to jump better, hack (or carefully cut, whatever) out the triangle of lexan in the body between the roll cage bars behind the cab to vent the air. If you use LiPos, clearance the battery hold down to get the battery right up against the rear bulkhead, then use 3 ounces of stick-on weights up front (1.5 on the servo, 1.5 on the skidplate). Mine jumps beautifully, with no parachuting, with that setup. Somewhat Heroic posted:QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? Online, I've used mostly A Main, and they've been fine. I just used Stormer Hobbies for the first time and can say they were very good, and have a really god selection of stuff. As I'm in Canada, I've also used Great Hobbies and they are pretty decent but don't really have a wide selection of stuff and their webstore is kind of archaic. My LHS is BC Shaver and Hobby in Victoria BC. They have a pretty good selection and are extremely helpful/friendly, although prices can be hit or miss. For instance, they had a Slash for $329 Canadian, but an SC10 kit for $250, which is slightly less than I paid to my door (exchange, shipping, duty) from A Main. For other Canadians who want an SCT, Hobby Alley in Edmonton is having a "Slashfest," selling SLashes for $219CDN. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jul 30, 2009 |
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Jul 30, 2009 02:53
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You Am I posted:There are a couple of RC shops locally that I mainly deal with for paints mainly. The only shops Ive had good experiences with in this country is RC Hobbies in Sydney. Anything they have in stock is well priced but as usual, ordering anything results in lengthy delays and eventually just ordering it from online. Killerhobbies.com was great but they seem to be out of the business now 
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Jul 30, 2009 04:47
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Somewhat Heroic posted:So I am guessing that you go to Mike/Ricky @ Hobbytown in Concord? Or do you make the trip up to see Jake @ Jakes Performance Hobbies? There are even a few hobby manufacturers that are in the Bay Area (or nearby). Team FastEddy, Darksoul Racing. Never been to any of those. I live downtown so while I normally do most of my shopping online, I always stop by Franciscan Hobbies in the Western Addition and that one place in Japantown before I buy online. I really like to support small brick and mortar businesses, especially for a hobby as esoteric as this in a city like SF. I even but all my paint and general modeling supplies from a model railroad store down the street from me for this reason. Somewhat Heroic posted:QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? I buy most of my stuff from Tower Hobbies. While they don't always have the best price, they're usually in the top three for online sellers and their shipping and customer service is the best I've experienced with an online retailer. They also offer a interest free deferred payment program on some high price items. compressioncut posted:No, T4. B4 axles will be too short. Then you can remove the limiters in the shocks to get more droop without worrying about dogbones dropping out. That said, the box-stock setup is just fine. I looked for ones for the T4 on their website and didn't see them. Got a good link for where you bought yours? compressioncut posted:I'd also recommend getting some B44 rear hubs and bearings if you're going to be putting much power to it. I got the STRC 1* aluminum hubs, which are sweet and add a little rear toe, but they still use the stock (small) bearings. The STRC hubs were on my next list of things to buy along with a couple other of their parts. I'm also planning on getting some ProLine beadlock wheels and tires. Would you recommend them with my setup? I've heard some guys say that beadlocks are a bad idea with high torque brushless motors like mine but I always figured this was bullshit. compressioncut posted:To get it to jump better, hack (or carefully cut, whatever) out the triangle of lexan in the body between the roll cage bars behind the cab to vent the air. If you use LiPos, clearance the battery hold down to get the battery right up against the rear bulkhead, then use 3 ounces of stick-on weights up front (1.5 on the servo, 1.5 on the skidplate). Mine jumps beautifully, with no parachuting, with that setup. I'm definitely trying this on Monday when I go back to the park. Do you have a setup sheet I could see? It sounds like I'm talking to the right guy.
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Jul 30, 2009 07:35
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James Woods posted:
At A Main - MIP CVDs. quote:
I'd get the Racers Edge pieces instead, if only because they use a bigger outer bearing. They're very expensive, however. I use Pro Line Epic beadlocks all around, but it was a bit of a project getting them to fit. I made a post about it a page or two back. They (Pro Line) now have Split Six beadlocks designed for the SC10, much easier. Apparently the locking system has been improved too, but there's nothing preventing you from gluing the tire on anyway. I just run a 19 turn brushed motor so have no issues. quote:I'm definitely trying this on Monday when I go back to the park. Do you have a setup sheet I could see? It sounds like I'm talking to the right guy. Keep in mind I don't race, just bash around on a BMX track, so there isn't a lot of science in my setup: 35wt oil rear, 45wt front, blue springs out back with two big spacers, silver front with a thin spacer. 1 degree camber all around, 1 degree toe out up front. Pro Line Switch tires, and the aforementioned battery and weight placement. The stock setup is preferred by a lot of guys, although heavier shock oil is better for bashing. pic of my SC10 with JConcepts body and beadlocks Post about installing beadlocks
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Jul 30, 2009 14:33
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Somewhat Heroic posted:QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? A Main when I can. Good prices and quick shipping. I fall back on Tower Hobbies because they stock a lot of older parts, but it takes like 2~3 days for the shipment to leave their warehouse. I am so used to ordering from Amazon / Newegg that it really pisses me off. The local stores are just a little bit too far away. For the $3 it would cost to drive out there, I might as well just order it online.
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Jul 31, 2009 17:22
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
I used to go through Ultimate Hobbies, as it was the closest full shop. I'll still go there for any electronics because they are usually 20$+ cheaper than the onsite hobby stores. For any general parts I just buy them at the track (OCRC and WCRCR are both 20 minutes from me and do a good job at keeping parts in stock, usually even better than Ultimate does). I don't usually bothering buying online unless a big race is coming up and I need 5+ sets of tires, and for that I'll order from the manufacturer along with some friends to get a shipment of 20+ tires.
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Jul 31, 2009 21:08
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krushgroove posted:
This is the short course truck I've been waiting for. The Slash is huge around here, but I've never been a traxxas fan.
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Jul 31, 2009 21:20
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Is that new HPI waterproof like the Slash?
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Aug 4, 2009 01:15
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Sloppy posted:Is that new HPI waterproof like the Slash? Unfortunately not but I believe it's cheaper by a bit.
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Aug 4, 2009 21:42
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I couldn't wait. I searched ebay and picked up all the parts to convert my t4 to an SC10. Got everything for $40. I'm going to run this, but I still plan on picking up a blitz.
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Aug 4, 2009 23:51
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Krushgroove, can you give us any hints as to what bodies we can expect to see coming out for the cup racer? any certain eras/styles being favored?
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Aug 5, 2009 02:40
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Finished my Tamiya Buggy Champ: Click here for the full 1164x575 image.  Click here for the full 983x1163 image.  Click here for the full 1103x1012 image. It runs nicely, only ran it on asphalt as the grass was too long and ground way too wet for it. Tons of oversteering, and hammers along nicely even with the shagged old battery I had for it.
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Aug 7, 2009 07:26
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That is awesome!
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Aug 7, 2009 08:09
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Laserface posted:Krushgroove, can you give us any hints as to what bodies we can expect to see coming out for the cup racer? any certain eras/styles being favored? I honestly don't know what's coming next but the whole platform is intended (for now, at least) to be a retro sort of thing, so the Porsche Carrera RSR is coming up next and I can only imagine what other retro sort of cars are going to be done next. I think some more old-school European cars are due, though. Cool Buggy Champ, too, I often wonder why the RC racing buggies look nothing like the actual racing buggies!
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Aug 7, 2009 10:33
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Just finished putting my SC10 together. It's a T4 converted to an SC10 with a Pro-Line Desert Rat body. I'm running a Komodo Pro 19T brushed motor with Nimh batteries and Pro-Line M2 Bowties. This thing is a frankenstein Monster of old parts. I'll be running it in the Outlaw class at the local track. A lot of the guys that have been winning that class have been using 27T motors. Brushless motors have too much instant torque and spin out. It really is a case of Slow is Fast. I drove it for the first time today and it felt good, but if I don't get traction I've got a 27T I'm ready to put in. It's very different from on-road. I'm so use to racing my Inferno that this thing feels like a slow Ice-skate. Going to take a while to get adjusted to it. The short Course class is exploding around here. The last club race had 28 racers. I decided to get in on the action.
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Aug 9, 2009 01:50
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You Am I posted:Finished my Tamiya Buggy Champ: This reminds me of what so many R/C cars lost since the '80s - any semblance of realism to the full-scale version. Sure, they're much faster but they look so much cooler like that. The short course trucks look more and more tempting every time I open the thread, though.
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Aug 9, 2009 02:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:This reminds me of what so many R/C cars lost since the '80s - any semblance of realism to the full-scale version. Sure, they're much faster but they look so much cooler like that.
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Aug 9, 2009 14:13
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Automotive Insanity: To me that's pretty unsavoury. Am I being overly sensitive? > R/C cars: try not to say the words "scale speed"> What did you do to your R/C Ride today? We need to get this thread bumpin again guys. Sorry for the terrible iPhone pictures. My wife had the camera when I was doing work. Novak released their new line of Spec motors, the Ballistic brushless motors. I had to be the first one at the track to use one.  Before I installed the motor, I put in the tuned 13mm rotor for lower operating temps. (rotor pictured on left) .jpg) Out with the old SS 13.5. It was getting a little tired. It has seen temps above 200 degrees.  The TV was trying to sell me the Rock Ballad Gods of the CENTURY on some limited time offer. More than words indeed. .jpg) Got the motor soldered back in, gear mesh set. Everything looks good. Also note my new LRP SXX TC speed controller. It has different profiles with advanced timing which makes a hugemongous difference on the track. .jpg) This body is looking pretty hammered. .jpg) Time for a new one. .jpg) I got that cut out and mounted. It will get the rattle can job in the next day or two to be ready for the weekend. More updates to come. Including pictures of my Cup Racer, with upgrades that have only been recently released (aluminum hubs, knuckles, tuning springs, etc.)
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Aug 12, 2009 17:12
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Awesome man! You going to be at the Wasatch race on Saturday?
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Aug 12, 2009 22:04
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Awesome man! You going to be at the Wasatch race on Saturday? I am planning on it! Just looked at the weather on my phone though, it is saying rain! We will have to see what it is sayin when the time gets closer. It is going to be a cooler day for sure.
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Aug 12, 2009 23:06
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drat the touring car chassis are getting so similar. I was about to say it was a Tamiya, but the blue anodizing on the aluminum parts were too dark. What's the TC5 like?
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Aug 12, 2009 23:56
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krushgroove, 180sx/240sx for the cup racer. I will never stop buying them.
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Aug 13, 2009 00:54
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Speaking of touring cars, I was trying to sell mine after a couple of speed control disasters, but no one wants to buy a Losi touring car around here so I sucked it up and ordered a Hong Kong special speed control. It's actually a Hobbywing 120A sensored job, the same (Hobbywing manufactures them) as this but about $80 less. I've also sent my Novak GTB in for service, as I discovered only recently that they have a good non-warranty exchange program - about $90 shipping included, pretty reasonable for an idiot tax. Who knows how long turnaround would take, so I ordered the new one, too. The Protoform Mazdaspeed6 body I've had on the chassis for a long time now was decidedly trashy looking, with off-center body post holes, not to mention it was ugly as hell by design with a very blunt, high front end. I really liked the look of the Protoform R9 body, and luckily enough my LHS had one, so I bought one and painted it up. The design is really sharp, with the nose much lower. The body is also very GBS (Global Body Spec).  This shows how much lower the nose is - I trimmed those posts for the Speed6 body, with one pin hole above the body clip. There are now five holes above the clip.  Top of the wing needs a little straightening out...  The speedo hasn't arrived yet so I won't be able to race this weekend, but I wired it up with the speedo from my SC10 and a mild brushed mod motor (13T) I had laying around to fart around with it for the first time. It was fast as hell, and obviously really controllable, even though the concrete in my parking garage is very slick. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 14, 2009 |
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Aug 14, 2009 22:52
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The Protoform R9 body is my favorite, but everyone wants the speed6. I can't figure that one out. Your car looks sharp!
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Aug 14, 2009 23:14
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I can understand that tourer racing is pretty much F1 and all the cars need to be as close to identical as possible to show who the 'best driver' is, but really all I want to see is like JGTC races and stuff, true small-scale racing kinda thing.
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Aug 17, 2009 00:57
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Check this out. Rebuilding my almost 20 year old RC10...  Getting there... 
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Aug 18, 2009 01:06
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Stregone posted:Check this out. Rebuilding my almost 20 year old RC10... Cool old beast there dude. How's the parts availability on it like?
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Aug 18, 2009 02:47
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