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Man I didn't realize how many Goons have R/C Cars. I have an old FT TC4 that I still race with. Race at Hobby Town in Las Vegas. But I have been looking into the new TC5. Whats the pros and cons about it?
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Aug 18, 2009 03:09
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Asocb4 posted:Man I didn't realize how many Goons have R/C Cars. I have an old FT TC4 that I still race with. Race at Hobby Town in Las Vegas. But I have been looking into the new TC5. Whats the pros and cons about it? There are not all that many real reasons to choose one touring car over another - the vast majority are more or less identical, so it's down to: 1. Spare parts availability 2. Price 3. Brand loyalty The Losi JRXS-R is the only one with a radically different layout, but it has packaging concerns, especially with the battery (very tight - I have one). I honestly have absolutely no idea what I'd get for a touring car if I was to get another, but it probably wouldn't be a TC5. The Robitronic car looks really, really nice, and I also like the Schumacher MI4. Concern #1 would be acute with either of those though. I also have a mental problem where I have to be different no matter how much a pain in the rear end it may turn out to be for me.
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Aug 18, 2009 05:47
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You Am I posted:Cool old beast there dude. How's the parts availability on it like? Surprisingly good. Tower caries all sorts of parts like suspension arms, bearing carriers, castor blocks, bodys, transmission case and gears, and etc. Some parts like shock towers or the rear bulkhead aren't available though. Luckily I only had to outright replace small parts like the ball cups, bearings, and the battery cup. Did a bit more work tonight:  
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Aug 18, 2009 06:20
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compressioncut posted:There are not all that many real reasons to choose one touring car over another - the vast majority are more or less identical, so it's down to: Well I was also thinking of getting a Tamiya TRF 415. I'm not too worried about parts availability, being you can get most stuff of the web. Just the huge change from shaft to belt. Been racing shaft since the TC3.
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Aug 18, 2009 18:36
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Asocb4 posted:Well I was also thinking of getting a Tamiya TRF 415. I'm not too worried about parts availability, being you can get most stuff of the web. Just the huge change from shaft to belt. Been racing shaft since the TC3. Like I said, I think you really just can get any car that appeals to you. The high end Tamiya stuff looks nice. I also like the Kyosho Stallion. And there's a brand new one from TOP, too, the Photon.
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Aug 18, 2009 23:52
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Asocb4 posted:Well I was also thinking of getting a Tamiya TRF 415. I'm not too worried about parts availability, being you can get most stuff of the web. Just the huge change from shaft to belt. Been racing shaft since the TC3. I have owned two 415s, but they are getting pretty old. Wouldn't it be better to look at a 416? My experience with them is they can be a pig to setup, but once you have the setup you want, they absolutely fly. Their results in World Championships show it isn't a chassis that has average performance. My current 415 is modded to the hilt. Replace most of the chassis with the limited edition Marc Rheinhard 415 stuff, added the Evo V steering and suspension arms, and aluminum front uprights.
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Aug 18, 2009 23:58
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You Am I posted:I have owned two 415s, but they are getting pretty old. Wouldn't it be better to look at a 416? Budget is the big key here, the reason why I was thinking about the 415. Unless I can pick up 416 pretty cheap. I haven't checked RC Tech(not that I would), but I have heard a lot about the setup options that Tamiya has period on their cars.
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Aug 19, 2009 01:19
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Laserface posted:I can understand that tourer racing is pretty much F1 and all the cars need to be as close to identical as possible to show who the 'best driver' is, but really all I want to see is like JGTC races and stuff, true small-scale racing kinda thing. There's always RCGT . You can use any 1/10 chassis you want and the only rules are that you have a limit of a 17.5T motor, you have to use a "scale" or realistic body from a real touring car, and you have to use realistic wheels with radial tires. The idea is to bring scale realism back into touring car racing while also allowing enough freedom for you to engineer your car for performance. I'm planning on competing in this class next year with the Novak Ballistic since it's the first really tunable brushless motor system but haven't decided on a chassis yet. I like both the XRAY T2 and the MI4 but I usually only buy RC Cars that are sold as kits so I was leaning towards the TC5 but now that Robotronic kit is looking really nice even though getting parts will be a bitch.
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Aug 19, 2009 21:23
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You Am I posted:drat the touring car chassis are getting so similar. I was about to say it was a Tamiya, but the blue anodizing on the aluminum parts were too dark. What's the TC5 like? The TC5 is pretty cool. I actually run the TC5R (model #30105). Over the original Factory Team TC5 it has aluminum outdrives (vs molded). It also includes the pieces if you want to run either a standard diff up front, or the "slipper spool". I currently am running the full lock spool in the front. The biggest difference between the TC5 and the TC5R is the Chassis and upper deck. the R includes the thinner "ITF" lower and upper chassis which allows for a crap-ton more flex in the car making it much easier to drive (much better for rubber tires). The standard set-up is also lightyears ahead of what the TC5 has which tones the car down a whole bunch. Not sure of the standard car has sway bars in the F/R, but the R has them included. compressioncut posted:R9 body pictures It is a sweet looking body, but the handling is much too aggressive for most drivers. That is why you see so many of the MAZDA6 and MAZDASPEED6 bodies on the race tracks. I use the LTC-R from Protoform which is also a GBS body. It is a lot more neutral in handling characteristics with plenty of down force overall. The Tamiya sedans really don't have the parts support that they need in the states to be a good option. The current big players on the west coast are the Schumacher Mi4 (which I think will be outdated soon enough) and the XRAY T2009. If I were to have endless pockets I would be running the T2009. they released a "sport" version of the car that still costs more than the rest of the standard touring cars. The Stallion is a dated car - I would stay away from that. The Hot Bodies Cyclone TC is actually a very competitive car as well. I went with the Associated sedan mostly out of being a whore for their products, and parts availability in Utah.
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Aug 19, 2009 22:24
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Tamiya suffers for really poo poo parts supply in Australia. The wholesaler/distributor in Australia is known for being gigantic cunts, and kept on cutting supply to Hobby Stores who were fed up with their slow service and high prices, and imported parts from Japan. Soon enough, especially with the Internet, most Tamiya people in Australia were importing their own parts from Japan at half the price that stores in Australia will stock the parts for. So what does the Aussie distributor do? Do they drop their prices and speed up the parts availability time? Do they actually sell off their licence for selling Tamiya in Australia (which has been going on and off for years)? No, they dump their support for the TRF line.
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Aug 19, 2009 23:46
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You Am I posted:Tamiya suffers for really poo poo parts supply in Australia. The wholesaler/distributor in Australia is known for being gigantic cunts, and kept on cutting supply to Hobby Stores who were fed up with their slow service and high prices, and imported parts from Japan. This is what drove me out of the hobby. having no other option to get parts reliably but ordering off the net. it means i have to stock 2-3 of common breaking parts so that i can ensure i didnt have a weekend off. so laying out $500AUD in parts each month was becoming a pain. if hobby shops were realistic with their time frames when ordering stuff, or, you know, just loving TOLD you when it had actually arrived or kept common break parts in stock, it wouldnt be so bad. but getting burnt time after time waiting for local guys to get their poo poo together is waht does this hobby under in australia. but yeah in the end i got sick of having sunday arvos at the park ruined because the 3 shops in my area all decided to only order 1 set of A-arms each and oh man they all sold out whoda thunk it? Laserface fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Aug 20, 2009 |
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Aug 20, 2009 10:17
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I have enough bits to build a second 415 and run spares for it as well  I lost the interest in on road one night, and never thought of doing it again. Sure I had that happen before, but always went back. But this time it is enough for me. However will keep my Mini and 415
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Aug 20, 2009 11:47
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On the subject of my 415, finally rebuilt it. Looks good now, in a tidier shell.
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Aug 23, 2009 12:28
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Anyone know what might cause of a Hall sensor failure in a brushless motor? Basically I'm trying to find out whether it's the motor or speed control that's messed up. With the sensor cable plugged in, the thing cogs horribly and gives a throttle input error on the ESC. It'll run if I spin the drivetrain by hand for a bit, but not consistently. With no sensor cable, it runs fine with virtually no cogging and the ESC gives no error. It's a Hobbywing Xerun 120A speedo (aka Speed Passion GT 2.0), which is a hybrid sensor/sensorless speedo, with a Speed Passion 17.5R. I haven't really found anyone else with the specific problem, nor have I been able to find any description of how or why a Hall sensor would fail, so I don't know if I should lean to a motor or speedo problem. I'm about to pull the trigger on another motor for troubleshooting purposes. I'm pretty intrigued by the Novak Ballistics, but am also interested in the Trinity Duo-based motors from Scooter's Motorworks. Is the architecture pretty different between the two? edit - or choice 3, a Tekin Redline. Pretty popular locally and seem to be well regarded. Plus I have never had a problem with a Tekin anything. So I ordered it... compressioncut fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 03:05
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Finished up my rc10. I need a slower motor for this thing. With this 17t motor its going over 30mph. I am paranoid I am going to break this thing if I blink and can't have any fun with it, lol.  
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Aug 24, 2009 14:51
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Can the gearbox even stand up to much more than a 17t motor? When that thing was new, 27t was the big class, mod motors didn't go much further below 17t, and you couldn't get the power out of the batteries like you can now.
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Aug 24, 2009 16:29
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Well back in the day the reason motors weren't very low turn is because batteries sucked. Also, that isn't the original original rc10 with a 6 gear tranny, it is a little newer and has the 3 gear stealth tranny. Pretty much the same one they use today.
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Aug 26, 2009 15:48
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Stregone posted:Well back in the day the reason motors weren't very low turn is because batteries sucked. Also, that isn't the original original rc10 with a 6 gear tranny, it is a little newer and has the 3 gear stealth tranny. Pretty much the same one they use today. Ah, sweet. My dad's gold-tub RC10 is still kicking around one of our garages somewhere, and I'm 99% certain that one is still running the six-gear transmission.
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Aug 26, 2009 16:09
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I've been thinking about picking this hobby up as it looks like a loving blast. But just to try it out I wanted to get the cheapest thing possible that would let me have a good bit of fun. I have a few questions though: 1. With the RTR kits, do you still have to assemble them? Or do they come ready made in a box? I'd prefer to assemble it myself so I can figure out how they work exactly. 2. Does this kit look good? DuraTrax 1/8 Raze buggy with .27 Nitro I don't need anything amazing, just something to gently caress around with and durable enough that it doesn't break the first jump I take it off.
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Aug 26, 2009 22:54
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Blocko posted:I've been thinking about picking this hobby up as it looks like a loving blast. But just to try it out I wanted to get the cheapest thing possible that would let me have a good bit of fun. I have a few questions though: If you see the words "RTR KIT" then that means it is assembled, ready to run(ready to ruin?). ARTR, or ARR means that it is Almost Ready to Run, and requires minor assembly, usually doesn't include radio gear, possibly no engine(or motor/speed control for electric power). If it just says "KIT", then it usually refers to an unassembled kit that requires everything to run. Most RTR kits will still need supporting equipment (glow igniter, fuel bottle, batteries, chargers, AA batteries, fuel, etc). Most places that sell them online will have a list of required items to operate. Generally speaking, building a car kit is more costly to buy than a ready to run. You will usually end up with better gear off of the start though. regarding the RAZE RTR - NO A thousand times no! It is cheap, terrible, and I loathe Duratrax cars. The hobby store I worked at stopped carrying them altogether. If you are seriously in a cash crunch, and want a 1/8 Nitro RTR, then get the OFNA Ultra LX-One. They have a street price maybe 20-30 bucks higher than the RAZE, but are lightyears better. They still kind of suck, but will do you much better than the Duratrax ever will. If you have little to zero experience in running anything two-stroke, then avoid Nitro. It will only make you want to drown puppies. Earlier in the thread, people were hitting up the TRAXXAS SLASH because it is in fact one of the best, most durable RC Cars that has been produced in the last decade. Plus, you can get it running cheaper than what the RAZE would cost to get going.
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Aug 26, 2009 23:46
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compressioncut posted:Anyone know what might cause of a Hall sensor failure in a brushless motor? Basically I'm trying to find out whether it's the motor or speed control that's messed up. The new Ballistic motors are very excellent! They performed extremely well this last weekend in a larger local onroad race that we had. The Trinity DUO motors are also working extremely well along the west coast. They have adjustable timing on them that makes them a rocket. The only catch is making sure that you gear more accordingly. If you only gear exactly what you were at before, it will smoke the motor, ESC, or both. Most of the people that I have seen run the REDLINE motors have been unimpressed with the performance. Unless you are competition racing, I don't think you will miss out too much though.
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Aug 26, 2009 23:52
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Somewhat Heroic posted:If you see the words "RTR KIT" then that means it is assembled, ready to run(ready to ruin?). ARTR, or ARR means that it is Almost Ready to Run, and requires minor assembly, usually doesn't include radio gear, possibly no engine(or motor/speed control for electric power). If it just says "KIT", then it usually refers to an unassembled kit that requires everything to run. Most RTR kits will still need supporting equipment (glow igniter, fuel bottle, batteries, chargers, AA batteries, fuel, etc). Most places that sell them online will have a list of required items to operate. I have some experience fixing two-stroke dirtbikes, and a rebuild of a 2-stroke briggs & stratton lawnmower engine when I was like 14 or so. Does that count? Or are you talking specifically nitro experience then in that case I have none whatsoever.
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Aug 27, 2009 00:14
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Somewhat Heroic posted:We have not had anyone out here run the SpeedPassion stuff. It has stayed mostly close to the west coast, a little sparse around the South, and a little back East. I have not had any of my sensor wires have an issue since I am paranoid about them failing so I take extra caution unplugging and plugging them in, wire routing, etc. Thanks for the thoughts. I'm just running Stock, and will probably only get a race or two in before the end of the season anyhow. I got the Tekin mostly because anything they make has been idiot- and bulletproof for me. I swear this car is cursed, though. It should have a red Plymouth Fury shell.
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Aug 27, 2009 01:24
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Got my crawler done, this thing is awesome in a relaxing and sooting way. just chilling around on a rockface for 40 minutes each battery pack testing the limits of your ride. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. MacPac fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Aug 29, 2009 |
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Aug 29, 2009 11:47
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compressioncut posted:Anyone know what might cause of a Hall sensor failure in a brushless motor? Basically I'm trying to find out whether it's the motor or speed control that's messed up. Well, I had a close look at the sensor harness (Novak, brand new) and one of the wires had been put in to the wrong position on the plug on one end! As in, it's supposed to be something like (I don't have it here so don't use this as instruction) white-blue-green-red-orange-black, and say the blue-green was reversed on one end. I changed it to the correct position, and while it is much improved, it still cogs a bit and has a bit of a delay for full throttle, and the speedo still shows a throttle input error. As such, I wonder if something in either the speedo or sensor was damaged due to the manufacturing error. Maybe a sensor harness wire is damaged - I'll see if I can try another. Thankfully Novak color codes the wires on the harness, otherwise I really probably wouldn't have been able to tell. Most other manufacturers don't.
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Sep 2, 2009 00:07
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Well you jerks got me interested in RC cars again, I just visited the local hobby shop after advice in here and bought the Traxas Slash and a higher speed charger. Now I am sitting at work anxious to go run this thing into a wall at a ridiculous speed.
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Sep 4, 2009 19:59
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I used to have an Alex Racing Barracuda R2. Man I loved that thing...
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Sep 4, 2009 20:22
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bigdookie posted:Well you jerks got me interested in RC cars again, I just visited the local hobby shop after advice in here and bought the Traxas Slash and a higher speed charger. Now I am sitting at work anxious to go run this thing into a wall at a ridiculous speed. The great thing with the Slash is you can run it into the wall at 50 mph and it'll be perfectly fine afterwards. e: Unlike MY MOTHERFUCKING DURGA 
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Sep 4, 2009 20:41
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Is the JRX-S Type R curse broken? The Tekin Redline runs 100% perfectly, using the same speedo and sensor harness as I was trying with the Speed Passion, so obviously that motor got messed up somehow. No idea. Hopefully there's a touring car race or two left this year. Anybody here run pan cars? The 1/12th scale indoor season starts ASAP, and I've been considering it. The issue is I need virtually completely new electronics to go with the car (batteries for sure, and I should get a 1S LiPo speedo too). They're talking about running Pro 10 occasionally, too, which would be good as I could run the same speedo and batteries I have and run all summer next year too.
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Sep 9, 2009 05:32
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compressioncut posted:Anybody here run pan cars? I used to, 1/12 was my first class and still my favorite but nobody in Phoenix wants to run it. It doesn't help that I don't think we have a single goddamn indoor track. The cars are awesomely simple, and they're fast as all hell.
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Sep 9, 2009 17:38
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THIS THREAD HAS BEEN DYING! I should have been a little better at keeping up with it and telling you cool new stuff. The HPI Blitz is due the first week of October. It will take a lot of willpower to not have one follow me home.compressioncut posted:Anybody here run pan cars? I have not done pan cars, but I know a bit about them. You are going to want to look into getting a speed control that has advanced timing. If you don't have one of those, then you are ten steps behind. I believe that the TEKIN RS Pro is going to be your best option. You will want to also get the TEKIN Hotwire to update it with the latest software and adjustments, etc. The other one that I think would be good to use is perhaps the SXX Speed controller.  The timing profiles are not as aggressive as the TEKIN speed controller, but LRP's are just buttery smoooooth. They are all that I use.  That is the battery of choice, or something similar. Oh what is this? Looks like something new for me to build this week. Hopefully I will have a place to race it this winter on some proper carpet!  I will keep you updated on the build.
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Sep 22, 2009 19:28
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Oh man, the Blitz looks really, really cool. I sorta want one, and I already have a slash 
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Sep 22, 2009 21:06
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Hopefully I will have a place to race it this winter on some proper carpet! No kidding! With all the local tracks stopping the on-road racing I'm getting a bit nervous. Hopefully there will be something for winter.
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Sep 22, 2009 22:03
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Somewhat Heroic posted:THIS THREAD HAS BEEN DYING! I should have been a little better at keeping up with it and telling you cool new stuff. The HPI Blitz is due the first week of October. It will take a lot of willpower to not have one follow me home. My speedo does have advanced timing, but I don't think it's as sophisticated as the Tekin unit - it just seems to be fixed at 28.5* advanced. Everyone raves about that thing, but frankly I've spent enough on speedos this year (3 of them, only 1 works) so I think I'll be fine. SMC has a 50C 1S lipo pack, which I'm about to order a couple of. My LHS has a CRC 3.1 Carpet Knife, barely used with a bunch of spares, which I'm probably going to pick up. Yeah it's old but considering I've never driven one I think it'll be OK. I can always get a new chassis later on in the year if I enjoy it. Of course I'm considering oddball exotic stuff for my new one, like the BMI DB12R, or Darkside Mx2. At least they're relatively inexpensive.
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Sep 23, 2009 04:21
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Well I bought the Carpet Knife from my LHS. Turns out it's a 3.2R, the last model before the GenX. Still old, but this one is essentially unused. It had the ugliest paint job on the body it came with I can imagine, sort of a metallic lemon yellow with metallic hot pink flames, which is probably why it hadn't sold yet. It's that bad. I bought a Speed 12 body, which will be black. It came with a couple sets of tires, a front suspension brace, a nice Airtronics servo and an ancient Novak speedo I threw in the trash - the PO had used hot glue to attach it to the deck, so it took some work to get off. That tipped me off that it may not have been set up too well to begin with. The 7mm ride height (twice as high as I would like it according to the setup sheet I'm using) was also suspicious. So I took it apart and rebuilt it. There still seems to be something wrong with the front suspension, as it doesn't settle at all, so there's no droop, and it seems rock hard? I haven't been able to find out how to set preload on it. It's got the old school large diameter tires on it, I haven't decided whether to go to new style ones or run through the ones I have.
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Sep 26, 2009 05:49
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God drat you and your pancar porn. If I had a carpet track I would break out the RC12LW in a goddamn heartbeat, I don't care how old it is.
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Sep 26, 2009 06:36
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Man, I broke my clutch on my Revo 3.3 and I had to record the video for the session today http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kocaABBNe60 it was a good day, everyone walked away with there revo's and hyper with a broken part
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Sep 26, 2009 13:41
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And just for the sake of discussion, I present to you The Ugliest RC Car Painjob Ever. *I did not perpetrate this crime* lovely camera does not do it justice, it's really hideous.
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Sep 26, 2009 18:41
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Well, did my first ever touring car race today. It was a hell of a lot of fun. Not too many entries as it was the last outdoor race of the year, about 18 in touring stock, so A, B and C mains. Also nitro touring and Pro-10 pan cars, only one heat of each. I qualified in the slow heats. A good idea, but there were truly some bad drivers who made things hard. In my third heat one of them took me out at the end of the long straight and broke an a-arm - fortunately I had a spare. Due to not finishing that race, I qualified for the C-main. I was running really strong, a close second and looking at a bump to the B-main. Then the Loctite gods frowned on me and let a rear camber link fall off. Argh. I should really get nylocks on there for next season. The Losi car worked really well overall. It was by a long shot, the fastest in a straight line compared to the C- or B-main cars, and maybe even the A-cars. Hit a sweet spot with the gearing I guess. Not that I know any different, but I didn't find the Protoform R9 body especially twitchy. Lots of experienced drivers commented on how well it seemed to be driving. The local club ( https://www.irocc.ca ) uses a temporary track. I could not believe how much work it was to set it up and tear it down. It probably took a good 90 minutes to set up, an hour to tear down, with heavy sand-filled fire hoses, boards to bolt together, huge ropes and so on. I really can't see how I would want to participate every weekend through the summer. Maaaaybe every two weeks, but seriously, it was my entire Sunday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. I can see why there would be such a low turnout at the end of the season. That said Pro-10 cars are super cool and I want to run it next year in addition to touring. Pan cars, 10.5 brushless, super fast. Thankfully the 1/12 pan cars for the winter will be far less extra work, and the facility is two blocks from my house.
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Sep 28, 2009 03:12
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compressioncut posted:And just for the sake of discussion, I present to you The Ugliest RC Car Painjob Ever. *I did not perpetrate this crime* Looks like a mutilated vagina.
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Sep 28, 2009 04:39
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